Korčula, Croatia – Island Escape

After Split, Croatia we had planned on taking a detour to one of the islands for a bit of an escape. We knew it was going to be crowded, since tourist season was upon us and we thought it would be great to also break up the distance between Split and Dubrovnik. Our choice was the town of Korčula, on the eponymous island in Croatia.

Korčula

Is a small medieval walled town that was protected from the outside by walls. It was, in fact, not until later in the nineteenth century that citizen were allowed to build outside the walls.

The Town from Galerija Maksimilijana Vanka Viewpoint – Korčula, Croatia

The main entrance to the town is the large main gate. Today it is left open, but before modern times it was closed at night. There is a street that encircles the entire town and is very nice for a slow walk, while you enjoy the scenery and hopefully the weather.

Main Entrance to Town – Korčula, Croatia

Small Canon used for defense – Main Entrance – Korčula, Croatia

The town is laid out in a herringbone or pinnate leaf pattern. This allows for better air circulation, while at the same time offering protection against the most violent of storms that come in from the sea.

Ancient Drapery Pedastels – Korčula, Croatia

An old bricked up entrance – Korčula, Croatia

Patti by alley filled with stairs – Korčula, Croatia

Croatian Flag and side alley – Korčula, Croatia

The name of the island and town is derived from an Illyrian-Greek word that means the rock passage. It has been inhabited for at least a few thousand years. The Greeks were frequent visitor in the 6th B.C.E., and perhaps arrived on the island even before that time. The original population were colonies of Illyrians, which have left their telltale marks throughout the island. From the early 3rd B.C.E. the Romans knew of the island and subdued it later for five hundred years. Some of the Latin that was taught in those days, still lingers in the speech of the town’s peoples.

GettingThere

To get there, take the ferry service that runs between Split and Dubrovnik. There are several lines, unfortunately our original booking through Kapetan Luka was cancelled due to equipment issues, so we had to rebook on TPLine. It was fully booked, but very comfortable. Get in line early, because seats usually go fast.

Leaving Split – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia

Our boat trip – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia

Another small town – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia

A Word About Ferries

Just an opinion of course, but having been on both ferry lines, I would prefer the TPLine. On TPLine, your luggage is stowed indoors with you and not outside, as with Kapetan Luka line. The latter is fine otherwise, but in the event of bad weather, it appears your luggage would be soaked upon arrival to your destination. I also found their boats to have a bit more room to get around. I felt a bit cramped on the Luka line.

Departing Split – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia

Patti on board – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia

Our Hotel

The Aminess Liburna

A large modern hotel on the adjacent pennisula to the town. From here it was about a fifteen to twenty minute walk to inside the town walls. However, the hotel has all the amenities, including breakfast. They also have a pool and a small seaside area for swimming. The deluxe rooms are typical and met most of our requirements.

Our hotel across the inlet – Aminess Liburna Hotel – Korčula, Croatia

Aminess Liburna Hotel – Korčula, Croatia

Path from our hotel to town – Korčula, Croatia

Marco Polo House

Ostensibly Marco Polo lived in the house for some time during his travels. Which travels, the museum does not elaborate on. They only conjecture that Marco was there, based on the family owning property and having other interests on the island.

Alley entrance – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Interior – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Weapons Display – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Battles – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

The Polos were based in Venice and the city and its residents had a strong influence on the island and the town.

Old Maps Asia – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Old Maps of Europe – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Marco Polo’s adventures and artifacts are explained and exhibited in some detail. Enough at least to enjoy the small museum that they have made in his honor.

Upsidedowm Map of Europe, Middle East, Part of Africa, Asia and India subcontinent – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Upper Left Corner Details – Continents Map – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Upper Right Corner Details – Continents Map – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Lower Left Corner Details – Continents Map – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Lower Right Corner Details – Continents Map – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Old Map of Europe and Asia – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Old Book – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Museum learning aids – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Old Books he owned – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Map of Known World – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

His long twenty-seven years journey into Asia is the central theme. Some of the artifacts are copies or replicas, but the genuine one are very interesting.

Model of a 13th Century Axe – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Model of a 13th Century Sword – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Tapestry – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Indian Artifact – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Chinese Necklace and Copper Burner, an Indian Spice Container – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Of special interest were the model boat, a replica used in his travels, as well as assorted maps and other forms of reference used during the adventure.

Ship Model – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

One special artifact is that of the Tablet that Kubla Khan had given his company for safe travel. It essentially gave them Carte Blanche through the countryside. Anyone interfering with them, risked Khan and his army descending upon them.

Khan’s Golden Tablet – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

One of the last things to visit is the house tower, which commands a modest view of the surrounding area.

Entrance to Tower – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Tower Views – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Churches and Cathedrals

There are a few churches in the town and one cathedral of importance. The people who live in the town are very religious and masses are well attended on the weekends, especially during holidays.

Front – Church of Saint Peter – Korčula, Croatia

Church of Saint Michael

Modest from the outside and equally so inside, this church is emblematic of its worshippers’ devotion to their faith. The church’s centerpiece is Christ on the Cross.

Interior – Church of Saint Michael – Korčula, Croatia

Saint Mark’s Cathedral

A remarkably simple example of a Romanesque-Gothic Cathedral on the small island, but no less important is Saint Mark’s. It is central to the town and is noteworthy. Visitors are required to wear respectful clothing, no shorts or inappropriate clothing is allowed, so dress accordingly.

Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia

Entrance Details – Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia

Nave – Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia

The cathedral has some very interesting eavestroughs and other architectural tidbits that any visitor, with some time on their hands, may explore. The interior layout is typical, even though a bit simple.

Eavestroughs – Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia

Attached to the left of the cathedral is a side chapel, which is a bit more elaborate than that of the cathedral itself.

Side Chapel – Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia

Chapel of Our Lady of the Snows

A small votive chapel directly after you enter the main gate and to the left. The Chapel of Our Lady of the Snows also commemorate Saint Bartholomew and the Battle of 1483. According to someone who transcribed the events of the battle between the Venetians and Genoese, Marco Polo was captured during the battle and later imprisoned.^[1]It is actually unclear if he was captured at this battle, or a previous minor engagement at Laiazzo.

Restaurants

In some parts of Croatia, and especially Korčula, most of the restaurants go by Konoba. This is to denote thier Dalmation or Istrian heritage and may they take the form of cellar-like tavern or other small place that serves authentic local food. Most of them we found to be reasonably priced.

Konoba Riva

A new restaurant that open just before we arrived which offers a very delicious menu with food to match it. We ate here three times, twice for lunch and once for dinner and were never dissappointed. The food was never salty or overcooked and when it arrived, it was still hot! The service was also extremely attentive, no doubt trying to assert some sway over any reviews they would receive. It didn’t matter, it ended up as our go to place.

Minestrone Soup – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Mixed Salad with Grilled Chicken – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Pasta with Chicken – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Spaghetti Aglio e Olio – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Pannacotta with Apricot Jam – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Kruskovac Apéritif – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Sijivovica Apéritif – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Travarica Apéritif – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Konoba Biankura

Konoba Biankura is located about three streets down in the old town on the right. It offers a wide variety of food, along with pasta and some meat dishes. The fish soup is amazing and can be commended highly.

Panncotta with honey – Konoba Biankura – Korčula, Croatia

Konoba Aterina

The Konoba Aterina is a restaurant in the old town. It offers a view somewhat of the sun setting and has covered terrace outside seating. The food is good, the majority of which is seafood, so a good place to scratch your fishy itch. We ordered the Sea Bass, traditionally cooked, and were not dissappointed.

Vegetable Soup – Konoba Aterina – Korčula, Croatia

Grilled Sea Bass and Vegetables – Konoba Aterina – Korčula, Croatia

References[+]

References
↑1	It is actually unclear if he was captured at this battle, or a previous minor engagement at Laiazzo.

7 June, 20267 June, 2026

Split, Croatia – Roman Repose

About a hundred and sixty miles from Zagreb and a hundred and ten miles from the Italian coast is Croatia‘s second largest city, Split. Today it is a tourist hot-spot and destination for cruise ships, whereas two thousand years ago it was Emporer Diocletian’s retirement home and where he would repose in his declining years.

Split

The old city center of Split is reminiscent of towns on the Ligurian coast of Italy, covered in bright limestone and other materials mined from quarries in the area. When the sun beats off of it, it can be blinding and almost uncomfortable hot.

Many of the streets in town are very narrow and cannot support vehicular traffic, so walking the old town should not be an issue. Having said that, it does not discourage mopeds, so stay alert while walking in any case.

Narrow Street – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Trogirska Street – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Let Me Pass Street – Very Narrow Street – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

The city is in the province of Dalmatia, which has a very distinctive culinary culture and influence on the food. There are heavy Italian and Roman influences in the food, construction and city layout, with the central building in the area being in and around Diocletian’s Palace.

Tomislava Street – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Main Shopping Street – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Fountain and Cup – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Two other noteworthy points of interest are the Republic Square and the People’s Square. One is near the water, while the other is in the middle of the city.

Republic Square – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Peoples Square – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Cyprian’s Palace – Peoples Square – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Clock Tower – Peoples Square – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

There is also a very active port area and a large number of berths for ferries, which frequent the city daily.

The city also has a large sign for tourist, which appears to be customary in some southern European cities. Here you can take a photograph to remember your adventure.

Getting There

From Zagreb, we took Croatian Airlines which operates flights to Split that continue onto Rome, Italy. At forty minutes it is the fastest way to get to the coast. From the airport to the old town of Split will take on average an additional thirty to forty minutes, depending on the time of day and whether there is any construction.

Split from our Lyft ride – Split, Croatia

Diocletian’s Palace

The Diocletian Palace is a large complex just off center of the old town of Split. It was to retirement home of the Roman Emperor Diocletian and was built some time around the third century CE. It is the reason that Split exists and is the ultimate destination here for those interested in Roman history.

Roman Arches and Fortress Wall – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Triklinij – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Side Street – Diocletians Palace – Split, Croatia

Another entrance – Diocletians Palace – Split, Croatia

There is an excellent example of fifth century Roman mosaic tiles behind the cathedral which should draw your attention.

Mosaic Floors – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

The Cellars

Some of the more interesting points of the complex are the cellars, where much of the work maintaining the palace was performed. These consist of a free part that provides access to the palace via the Brass Gate.

Free Cellars – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

There is a more extensive part of the cellars that can be seen for a nominal cost.

Tickets For Two – Cellars – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Cellars – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

What It Looked Like – Cellars – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Split Peninsula – Cellars – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Well – Cellars – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Diorama – Cellars – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

The Temple Of Jupiter

The Temple of Jupiter is in line with Saint Domnius Cathedral and its Tower, but on the other side of the Peristil. It is rather small and contains a statue of Jupiter, along with other objects on note. There is also what appears to be a font in the center of the room.

Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Tomb – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Inscription – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Entrance – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Jupiter – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Font – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Main Room – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Ceiling – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Relief – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Colum – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Iron Gate – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

The Vestibule

The Vestibule and the Rotunda are major open-air sites to see near the cathedral. The entrance to the vestibule contains two ancillary lintels of note, with inscriptions atop each.

Left Lintel – Vestibule – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Right Lintel – Vestibule – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Arch leading into the Vestibule – Diocletians Palace – Split, Croatia

The Rotunda is a large area with a round ceiling and oculus that is very reminiscent of the Pantheon in Rome.

Vestibule – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Diocletian’s Fortress

The outside fortress walls that protected the palace had four large towers on each corner, for which only few still remain.

Southwestern Tower – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Venetian Tower – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

The Gates And Entrances

There are several gates to the palace, some of which are not so prominent as the others and a few are no longer functional. The Golden Gate is the main gate of the palace, though one could make an argument that the Brass Gate was more important since it faces the sea.

Golden Gate – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

The Silver Gate faces the east and along with the Golden Gate is one of the better preserved gates to the palace. The Iron Gate is buried within the walls and narrow alleyways of Split to the west. Transformed after the emperor left and the palace fell into disrepair.

Silver Gate – Diocletians Palace – Split, Croatia

Gradski Park

Just outside the Golden Gate is Gradski Park. Here you will find a statue from Gregory Ninskomu, a fountain and Bell Tower and Chapel of the Holy Arnir.

Gregory Ninskomu Statue – Split, Croatia

Fountain – Park Josipa Jurja Strossmayer – Split, Croatia

Tower of Chapel of Holy Arnir and Gregory Ninskomu Statue – Split, Croatia

Saint Domnius Cathedral

One of the main buildings within the palace is Saint Domnius Cathedral. Along with its bell tower it commands attention next to the vestibule.

Saint Domnius Bell Tower – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Colums – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Entrance – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Altar – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Side Altar – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Ceiling – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Doors – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Tomb – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Porch Ceiling – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Pulpit – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

The Crypt

The cathedral also houses a small crypt underneath it. However, today it is used for religious art, rather than storing of bodies and bones.

Patti – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Saint Lucia – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Main Room – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Well – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Artwork – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Jesus as Eucharist – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Tranfiguration of Christ on Mount Tabor – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Kingdom of God Proclaimed – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Wedding at Cana in Galilee – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Baptism of Jesus – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Marjan Hill

One the western part of the city is the Marjan Hill. Known locally as a hiking destination, is has several hundred steps to climb, before one gets a commanding view of the countryside.

Solta Island – Marjan Hill – Split, Croatia

Church of Saint Nicholas

Atop the hill is the small chapel and Church of Saint Nicholas, first commissioned in 1219. It has a small Gothic-Renaissance bell tower and is still outfitted and used for mass, especially on December 6th. The Croatians are a deeply religious catholic people and you will often find attendance very high if you were to peak your head in during a Sunday Mass.

Entrance – Church of Saint Nicholas and Bell – Marjan Hill – Split, Croatia

Inside – Church of Saint Nicholas and Bell – Marjan Hill – Split, Croatia

Restaurants

Cicibela Restaurant

Very near our place of hotel was the Cicebela restaurant. A very good restaurant that serves traditional food, albeit at a higher price. Everything we ordered was very tasty and the service was equally responsive.

Soup – Cicibela Restaurant – Split, Croatia

Waiting – Cicibela Restaurant – Split, Croatia

Pasticada – Cicibela Restaurant – Split, Croatia

Tuna Steak – Cicibela Restaurant – Split, Croatia

Panacota and Orahovac – Cicibela Restaurant – Split, Croatia

Buffet Fife

Located near the waterfront is the Buffet Fife, a local restaurant that is similar to a trattoria in Italy. Here you will find and enjoy many Croatian home-cooked dishes. We ordered the stuffed cabbage rolls in sauce with mashed potatoes, which are very similar to the Polish variety of Gołąbkis, or Galumpkis. They were delicious and come well commended.

Patti waiting for dinner – Buffet Fife – Split, Croatia

Stuffed Cabbage and Mashed Potatoes with Salad – Buffet Fife – Split, Croatia

Focaccia Antico Spalato

On the more modest side of things is the Focacciaria, Antico Spalato. A veritable hole-in-the-wall, we visited it while trying to stay out of the pouring rain.

Lunch – Focaccia Antio Spalato – Split, Croatia

Panini Sandwich – Focaccia Antio Spalato – Split, Croatia

3 June, 20263 June, 2026

Zagreb, Croatia – Golden Bull

Zagreb, the etymology of the name even today is disputed, is actually composed of two historic city centers, Kaptol to the east and Gradec to the west. Today, it consists of an even larger metropolitan area, where more than a million people live.

Zagreb

On a normal day, the historic parts of the city are filled with tourists and sightseers, however the weekends can be quieter. We arrived on a Sunday and found it strangely quiescent.

The Old Part of Town – Gradec – Zagreb, Croatia

Kaptol was the first to be formally recognized as pertaining to Zagreb, followed by Gradec some time later through King Bela IV edict of the Golden Bull. They both sit upon their corresponding hills and lay alongside one another, being separated somewhat by a slight depression where the Тkalčićeva ulica street runs.

Тkalčićeva ulica Street – Zagreb, Croatia

Getting There

Coming from Turin we flew with Air Dolomiti to Munich and then later on to Zagreb, two short one hour flights which took us about five hours to complete with layover.

The Zagrab airport is small, perhaps smaller than most would expect. It took us approximately an hour to get our luggage, once we had left the plane. So do not expect the speedy luggage service you may enjoy elsewhere, here, things definitely move slower. In such cases, it might be good to have air-tags, just to keep an eye on where your luggage is, before getting alarmed. We got them as a gift and they really came in handy.

Of course you can also come by car, but from what we can see, parking is a problem and quite expensive. Train, is also an option, though we ruled it out due to scheduling issues and other considerations.

Lower Zagreb

We stayed in Lower Zagreb very close to Kaptol and the main square. From here we were able to visit most parts of the old city within a ten to fifteen minute walk.

Zrinjevac Park

Actually many parks in tandem and tied together by several buildings and monuments. It is actually a nice place to take a stroll and enjoy the salubrious spring weather.

Patti – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia

Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia

Science Musuem – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia

Strossmayer Stature – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia

Art Pavilion – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia

King Tomislav Monument – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia

Gradec

To the west of Kaptol and across small depression represented by Pavla Radica, where you will find many bars, cafes and some restaurants, is Gradec, also referred to as Grič.

The Stone Gate

One of the entrances to Gradec is via the Stone Gate. It is adorned by a statue of Saint George before you get there and actually contains a small chapel.

Saint George Statue – Pavla Radica Street – Zagreb, Croatia

Saint George Statue and Stone Gate – Pavla Radica Street – Zagreb, Croatia

Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary – Zagreb, Croatia

Saint Mark’s Church

The most prominent structure here is Saint Mark’s Church. Noted for its polychrome roof tiles depicting the coats of arms of Croatia and Zagreb, it is a beautiful to see. Again, like other structures in the area, it too was damaged by the earthquake and was still undergoing renovations at the time of our visit. Therefore, we were unable to go inside or even get up close to its facade.

Observation Tower

The Observation Tower, or Lotrščak Tower, can be found near Saint Mark’s Church in Gradec. It is right next to the Furnicular station to Lower Zagreb and can be ascended for a modest fee. We chose not to, since the weather was terrible and it was raining and overcast.

Overview of Lower City and Furnicular – Zagreb, Croatia

Tunel Grič

Built during World War II as a bomb shelter, the Tunel Grič, or Gric Tunnel is commonly used as a pedestrian path now, even though several sections of it are in disrepair and no longer used. The main section spans about a quarter of a mile an connects western side of Gradec with the eastern side on Pavla Radica street.

Entrance to Gric Tunnel – Strossmayer Park – Zagreb, Croatia

Kaptol

Even today it appears that most of the real estate here is consigned to the Roman Catholic clergy in one form or another. It is here where you will find the Cathedral of Zagreb, the seat of arch bishop.

Monument to Kumica Barica – Zagreb, Croatia

Dome of the Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary – Zagreb, Croatia

Walking the Kaptol street is very relaxing. All of Zagreb is rather well cared for in one repect or another, but this area even more so with its beautiful buildings and well maintained park, the Ribnjak Park.

Small Catholic Chapel – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia

Zagreb Cathedral

An enormous and the most prominent building in Kaptol is the Zagreb Cathedral. It is the second tallest building in Croatia and is surrounded by the Kaptol Fortress. Unfortunately at this writing, it was undergoing heavy reconstruction after the 2020 Earthquake., where most of its facade and interior are shrouded in construction scaffolding and screens.

Coming up to the Cathedral – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia

Zagreb Cathedral – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia

The southern spire had snapped off during the quake and crashed onto one of the adjacent buildings. The northern spire was later removed because it was leaning and can now be seen alongside the cathedral, waiting for its eventual return.

Bells – Zagreb Cathedral – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia

Nave – Zagreb Cathedral – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia

Restaurants

Gostionica Ficlek

The restaurant Gostionica Ficlek is a good place to enjoy the gastronomy of Croatia and Zagreb. It has a fine collection of tasty treats on its menu that can be tried for a more than reasonable price. The traditional chicken soup tastes like a typical chicken soup, until you notice the dumplings, which just puts it over the top.

Entrance – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Menu – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Patti – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Ajngmahtec – Traditional Chicken Soup with Dumplings – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Zagrebački odreyak – Breaded Pork stuffed with Ham and Cheese, Potato Salad – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Cruffin with Vanilla Creme and Brioche with Almonds – Korica Cafe – Zagreb, Croatia

Patti’s Turkey with mlinci – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Heritage Street Food

For lunch, Patti selected a tiny establishment on Petrinjska street, known as Heritage Street Food. Their concentration is on Paninis and Focaccia style sandwiches, which when combined with other delectable sides, create a truly enjoyable and tasty little adventure for your palate.

Bread with spicy olive oil – Heritage Street Food Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Istrian Pearl Sandwich – Heritage Street Food Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

House Sauvignon Blanc with Gligora Cheese platter with Walnuts, Fig Jam and Figs – Heritage Street Food Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Puslek Honey Herbal Liqueur – Heritage Street Food Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Caffe & Bar Jupi

The day that we left Zagreb we visited a small cafe for breakfast called Caffe & Bar Jupi. Patti ordered the pancakes with fruit and I had the scrambled eggs. Both were delicious and hit the spot on a busy and somewhat chilly morning.

Patti – Cafe and Bar Jupi – Zagreb, Croatia

Scrambled eggs, Hüttenkäse and Cucumber salad – Cafe and Bar Jupi – Zagreb, Croatia

Pancakes with Berries – Cafe and Bar Jupi – Zagreb, Croatia

28 April, 20268 May, 2026

Reggio Calabria, Italy – Calabrian Classic

If anyone travels all the way down to the very tip of Italy they will discover Reggio Calabria, a Calabrian city with all the classic touches of Southern Italy. Offshore, you will see the ever present Mount Etna smoking in the background.

Getting There And Back

To get there we took TrennItalia’s Calabrian Regional train service from Tropea. Approximately a two hour train ride that eventually hugs the coast and offers a preview of the Italian island of Sicily.

Our First View of Sicily – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy

Messina Ferry – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy

Coming Into Reggio Calabria – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy

To get back we used Reggio Calabria’s airport, where RyanAir offers direct service to Turin’s Caselle Airport. Another trip just short of two hours which also hugs the coast of Italy and also offers views of Sardinia and other prominent points of interest from the air.

Reggio Calabria

The official name for the city is Reggio Calabria, but it is also known by its traditional names of Reggio di Calabria and just plain Reggio. The city was almost completely destroyed by an earthquake in the beginning of the last century and its more hopefully robust version has new amenities the former city lacked.

Large Banyan Trees – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Corso Garibaldi – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Piazza d’Italia – Reggio Calabria, Italy

If you love food, visit the shops along Corso Garibaldi. Many have interesting and local foods that you can bring home with you to enjoy, while you reminisce about your time in Calabria.

Calabrian Volcanic Spread – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Just up from our hotel and on the transformed via Giudecca street, is the eponymous stairway.

Giudecca Stairway – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Torrine Hotel

On the edge of the older and more vibrant part of the city, the Torrine Hotel is about four blocks from the waterfront. This is just as well, since it provides a quieter place to stay, with the exception being rush hour; it is located on a busy one-way thoroughfare through the city that buses frequent. Our room came with breakfast, a mixture of continental with some warm food thrown in.

Breakfast – Hotel Torrione – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Lungomare

The city has an extensive waterfront and a beautiful Lungomare to go with it. Near the end of it, in the urban park, you will find a nice long sign with the city’s name where you can take memorable photographs.

Beach – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Looking North – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Patti by City Sign – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Erick by City Sign – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

There are several points of interest along the boardwalk and a leisurely stroll along it will eventually bring you to all of them.

Abandoned Boats – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Wave Science Experiment – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Unknown Statue – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Somewhere near the end, down by the Roman Baths, Patti found the Big Bench. Apparently just installed, since it had no placename on it yet.

Patti finds the Big Bench – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Monumento Della Vittoria

From our hotel on Via Giula, almost directly down the street and on the waterfront and Lungomare, is the Monumento della Vittoria. It is a monument erected for Italy’s World War I victory and Victor Emmanuele III, which also has replica of the Statue of Athena Promachos inside it.

Arena del Stretto – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Roman Baths

Along the Lungomare is a site of old Roman baths from antiquity.

Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo

A large cathedral in the Piazza Duomo is the Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo. It was partially destroyed in the 1908 earthquake and rebuilt with a fusion of Romanesque and Gothic styles.

Bronze Doors – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Aisle – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Clerestory by Entry – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

The most interesting interior element of the cathedral is its ceiling. A timbered edifice that is remarqued and painted in a most interesting style, including pagan elements which appear to be handpainted.

Nave – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Nave’s Ceiling – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Crossing – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Urn – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Altar and Apse – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Organ in Transept – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Side Chapel – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Castello Aragonese

The Castle Aragonese no longer functions as a castle and has been renovated into something more useful, an art museum. Here for a small fee you are able to enjoy two galleries, one in each tower.

Tickets For Two – Entry to Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

North Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Patti on South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

North Tower Gallery

During our visit this gallery had an exhibit of modern paintings, most of which bright colors were used in an almost three dimensional approach.

Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

South Tower Gallery

While we were visiting this tower housed a collection of art known as Voci senza Volto, or Voices without a Face. An effective and provocitive collection of art, which appears part surreal and part dystopian and gets the viewer to think about signs of struggle, longing and hardship. This was the high point of the trip for me.

Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Being Neutral Serves No One – Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Villas And Palazzos

There are a few villas and palazzos of import in the city.

Villa Genoese Zerbi

A beautiful Venetian Art Nouveau style building on the Corso Emanuele is the villa of Genoese Zerbi. The original was destroyed in the great quake, but it was completely restored and now is one of the main charms of the city.

Palazzos Spinelli and Giuffrè

These two palazzos are side by side on the Corso Emanuele by the waterfront. Both appear to need some work. Palazzo Spinelli offers a great example of Calabrian architecture and Art Nouveau, or the liberty style.

Palazzo Spinelli – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Palazzo Giuffrè on the other hand offers a more mundane example, and is reminiscent of other buildings you will find in other large Italian cities.

Palazzo Giuffri – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Restaurants

Drogheria Culinaria

Using its former name for the grocery store the family used to own, it now serves food and drinks. It has a decent wine list, with several good varietals by the glass.

Inside – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

The food is also pretty good and you will definitely be able to find something to slake your appetite at this establishment.

Meatballs, Bread with Hot ‘Nduja and Wine – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Pat’s Spaghettone and Erick’s Tagliotella, both with Pork Ragú sauce – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante

One of the restaurants in the area that is highly recommended for local Calabrian dishes is the Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante. Located on via Reggio Campi and via II Dezembre, this small little restaurants attacts all the locals, so have your reservation in hand before leaving your hotel or place of stay.

Old Citroen – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Everything we tried had that home cooking taste without any loss to attention to detail. The Stufato is highly recommended and will melt in your mouth.

Menu – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Stufato di Maialino a bassa Temperatura with Coleslaw – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Cavatelli al Sugo di Capra – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Stufato di Maialino a bassa Temperatura – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

While we were there a local class was having their end of year party, so noise levels were through the roof. However, it was still enjoyable, especially watching the children eating all that food. Made me remember how hungry I used to be as a school kid.

End of Year Lunch for Children – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Fennel Aperativo with Expresso – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Tartufo – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

26 April, 20264 May, 2026

Tropea, Italy – Onions Anyone?

A destination for tourists and those interested in southern Italian cuisine, a stop in Tropea is almost a must. Known for their mixture of Sicilian and Greek influences, this part of Calabria is famous for the Tropean Red Onion, or Cipolla Rossa, one of the most tasty onions in the world. Onions anyone?

Tropean Onions – Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy

Getting There

In order to get to Tropea from Sapri we had to take the InterCity train from Sapri to Lamezia Terme Centrale and then connect. Unfortunately there is no logistical way around it. From there we took the local TrennItalia Regional train service to Tropea. This gave us a two and a half hour layover in Lamezia Terme, just enough time for lunch!

Lamezia Terme

Other than connecting with our other train, there was no other reason to visit this place, that is, other than lunch! With two and a half hours layover, we had plenty of time.

Restaurants

Europa da Albano

While we were on our InterCity train, I took the liberty of researching what our options were at Lamezia Terme. There weren’t many, but this restaurant and pizzeria caught my eye. It was a good choice. It was very busy inside and out and packed with local people, which is actually a good sign. Though we waited a bit to order, the wait was not bad in the end and our drinks and food arrived within customary promptness.

Spaghetti Bolognese – Europa da Albano Ristorante – Lamezia Terme, Italy

Tropea

One of the Canons – Piazza del Cannone – Tropea, Italy

Another Canon – Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy

Unknown to us, Tropea is a very busy tourist destination and we were there on a weekend, so the crowds we experienced were kind of unexpected, especially for this time of year.

Old Portal – Largo Galluppi – Tropea, Italy

17th Century Palazzo Marchesi Toraldo di Francia – Tropea, Italy

One of the main squares or piazzas close to our hotel, was the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, which our street ran right into, if you walked far enough. It has plenty of seating and a few monuments amongst the trees that have been planted to provide some shade against the sun.

Statua ai caduti di Tropea – Tropea, Italy

From there the main street in town is the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, which turns into Via Stazione as one gets closer to the train station.

Weekend Visitors – Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy

Hotel Colomba D’Oro

In Tropea we stayed at a hotel between the old part of town and the train station. It was just as well, our hotel in the city was the Hotel Colomba D’Oro on via Vittorio Veneto and it proved to be quiet and very comfortable. Our room came with a free morning continental breakfast, which included cooked eggs, pancetta and other warm offerings.

Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania

The twelfth century cathedral of Saint Mary of Romania is on Largo Duomo. The interior houses guilt altar for the Virgin of Romania and the Black Crucifix of 1600.

Chapel Dome – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Tomb by Entrance – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Organ and Altar of the Virgin of Romania – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Black Crucifix of 1600 – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Altar – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Statues – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Mother Mary and Jesus – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea

On the presque-isle of Tropea, which is actually to an island than a peninsula, stands the Sanctuary of Santa Maria. In order to get there one has to climb down from the city and ascend the stairs to the sanctuary, which opens around ten in the morning. It is best to get their at opening, because as we where leaving throngs of people appeared and the inside of the chapel is quite tiny.

View – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Facade and Entrance – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

The entrance to the sanctuary is adorned by three painted cielings.

Entrance – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

The interior is actually quite small and fitted out with pews, an altar and other accoutrements of catholicism. There is also a small shop where you can by a keepsake, postcards or other memorabilia.

Pews – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Confessional – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Nave – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Altar – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

There are a few vantage points in which to take photographs of the surrounding coast and beach, as well as the city of Tropea perched on its cliff.

Patti – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Erick – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Belvedere Gardens

An adjunct to the sanctuary are the Belvedere Gardens, access to which is controlled by entry to the chapel. The gardens command a view of the coastline and with perfect weather equally good photographs of it.

There are a variety of trees in the garden, as well as other bushes and flowering plants. In the day it must have been an amazing place to repose and enjoy the day.

Patti – Belvedere Gardens – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Via Lungo Mare

Though the walk along the Lungomare in Tropea is not the best we have been on, it is a nice walk that can bring you back up on the other side of Tropea. It also provides access to the sandy beach that enjoys protection from the wind and the waves and appears to be a favorite for the locals.

The Grotto – Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy

Nasocchio – The Apotropian Mask

Walking though the town a visitor will occasionally notice a mask that almost looks like a caricature. The closest analog we have in the States are caricature artists that frequent fairs and draw your face with a pencil in a very stylized way. Well, these masks are specific to the Calabrian culture.

Nasocchio and the Apotropian Masks – Totemic Masks against Evil Eye – Tropea, Italy

Nasocchio as he is called in Calabrian culture is a mask whose strange and unique glare is supposed to frighten away evil spirits, or what is commonly termed here the Malocchio or Evil Eye. The Italian Horn is meant to function in the same way, as are other strange artifacts in the culture. They are also meant to bring good fortune with their use.

Restaurants

Though we stayed here only for two nights, we still had occasion to visit three restaurants, all of which offered local Calabrian or Sicilian dishes.

Royal Bar

Not known for their food, we bought some drinks here for a quick rest. Nothing special, but the drinks were okay.

Campari Spritz and Granita – Royal Bar – Tropea, Italy

Diamante Rosso Tropea Ristorante

Here we had to try to local al ragu Arancini, or Sicilian breaded and conically shaped stuffed rice balls that are deep-fried. They were amazing, but usually always good, depending where you buy and how they are made. They can actually be purchased at most good local stores, cafes and some marketplaces and quickly heated up for a snack or meal.

Spaghetti alla Ragu – Diamante Rosso Tropea Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante

At Le Volpe we ordered a pasta dish each and dessert. The Filey was freshly made and topped with Tropean Onions, which are deliciously sweet, when they are sautéed until they have that glassy look.

Drink Menu – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Entrance – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Filey Fresh Pasta with Tropean Onions – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Spaghetti alla Ragu – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Dessert and Expresso – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Palazzo Teotino Ristorante

This restaurant is housed in an old palazzo and has both indoor and outdoor seating. We sat indoor right in the foyer next to the stairwell. We came here for the Tropean Onion soup that they advertize and found it very rich and tasty. We can also commend the fried onion floret, you get about four when you order them, so enough to share.

Entrance – Palazzo Teotino Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Dessert Menu – Palazzo Teotino Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Fried Onions – Palazzo Teotino Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Tropean Onion Soup – Palazzo Teotino Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

22 April, 202630 April, 2026

Amalfi Coast, Italy – Part Three

Amalfi Coast

The second part of our first day was filled with visiting the town Amalfi on the eponymouos coast and Ravello, a bit further away from the shore, but still part of the famous coastline. We joined our driver again, who drove the windy and treacherous coastal road between Positano and Amalfi, while we took the ferry to enjoy the coastline.

Interesting Entrance Decoration – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Getting There

To get to Amalfi, we took the ferry from Positano. It is a thirty minute boat ride along the coast, which when the weather cooperates provides beautiful scenery and a great occasion to take photographs.

Ferry Ride from Positano to Amalfi – Amalfi, Italy

To get to Ravello from Amalfi, you probably should use or hire a car. Since we were had hired a private tour guide for all day, we used the car to ascend the five kilometers up the coast to the town.

Our Tour Guides Having Typical Italian Discussion While Driving – Pasqual and Federica – Ravello, Italy

Ravello Next Stop – Leaving Amalfi – Amalfi, Italy

The Coast Up To Our Next Stop – Ravello, Italy

When we arrived, we took a photograph to remember the occasion.

Our Private Tour Group – Driver Pasqual, Tour Guide Federica, Patti and Erick – Ravello, Italy

Amalfi

Perhaps fourth best of all the towns along the coast is Amalfi. Some may be surprised, but that is based on our experience of most of the towns. There are many factors for this, including the terrible idea of using part of the waterfront as a parking area, instead of a boardwalk, or even another beach. Therefore, it comes after Positano, Vietri sul Mare^[1]this town also has coastal parking, but here it works because it is part of a boardwalk and beach complex. and Ravello.

It does have a beautiful cathedral, which unfortunately was closed at the time of our visit.

Cathedral of Saint Andrew the Apostle – Amalfi, Italy

The town has the customary narrow stairs, stairways, alleyways and tunnels, providing a reprieve from the hot summer days for travelers. There are also some interesting fountains in Amalfi, one actually has a cute little diorama built into it of little character, shepards and animals, along with the customary goldfish swimming below.

Narrow stairs that go up, up – Amalfi, Italy

Ravello

Unlike most other towns along the coast, Ravello kind of stood out. Not only is it more relaxing, since it is obviously visited by fewer people, it is quieter and more laid back. This is most likely due to its smaller size, its elevation and distance from the coast.

Some find it a better alternative than Amalfi. For one, there are better views from the town, from where visitors can see Amalfi’s classic rocky coastline. Plus the relaxed atmosphere adds to the pleasure, especially if you have time to sit and enjoy a drink, or have a gelato at one of the many artigianale gelaterias in the town.

The Narrow Town Streets – Ravello, Italy

Ceramics And Glass From Coast – Ravello, Italy

Duomo di Revallo

The main church in town is the Duomo di Ravello, which was unfortunately closed while we were visiting, so the interior remains a mystery to us.

Duomo Ravello – Piazza Centrale – Ravello, Italy

Villa Rufolo

For a small entrance fee you can visit Villa Rufolo in Ravello. The entrance shows some interesting designs and details, that continue in deeper parts of the villa.

Cupola At Entrance – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Details By Entrance – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Looking Back Out Of Entrance – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

In Between The Rooms By Entrance – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

One Of The Towers – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Old Baking And Cooking Ovens – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Inside And Some Old Portal Lintel – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Ornate Design Of Villa Vaulted Areas – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Vaulted Area To Gardens – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

The Gardens – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Double Columed Vaulted Area – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

The villa is rather simple, but has some interesting items, like an old stove and a tower. It is kept in relatively fine shape and is a pleasure to walk through.

Richard Wagner The Composer Was Here – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Ornate Lintel And Rooms – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Old Vaulted Ceilings – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Simple Beautiful With Murano Glass Chandelier – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Another Room With Chandelier – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Old Iron Stove – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Some of the external structures include a tower, a vaulted building that appears to have been an old chapel and some other old structures near the gardens.

Outer Building – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

The Tower – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Old Stone Walls – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

It has a magnificent garden with a beautiful view of the sea. They actually hold concerts from the garden, by extending a stage over the side of the hill, providing a wonderful backdrop for music and other performances.

The Coast Looking Toward Vietri sul Mare – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Church of Saint Mary of Grace – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Coastline From The Gardens – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Restaurants

As part of our first day at the coast, we stopped in Amalfi for lunch some time after one in the afternoon.

Taverna Buonvicino

A very nice restaurant with a beautiful terrace outside, which is off the beaten path, so no worries about hordes of tourist bothering you while eating.

Linguini with anchovy sauce – Taverna Buonvicino – Amalfi, Italy

They also have a very good wine list which is stocked with local favorites. I can commend one varietal, Taurasi Lo Scudiero (DOCG), which was exceptionally good.

Taurasi Wine – Taverna Buonvicino – Amalfi, Italy

References[+]

References
↑1	this town also has coastal parking, but here it works because it is part of a boardwalk and beach complex.

2 April, 20262 April, 2026

Biella, Italy – Woolen Woes

A former eminent place where most woolen products came from in Italy is the city of Biella. As far back as the thirteenth century, the city has been known for its fine wool fabrics and products. However, with the recent globalization of products and competition of the early twenty-first century, many of the factories and businesses associated with that industry have gone away, creating what some might term – the woolen woes.

Waiting for Tram 13 – Vittoria Veneto Piazza – Turin, Italy

Torino Porta Susa Train Station – Turin, Italy

The Alps From Our Train To Biella – Turin, Italy

Biella

The city sits at the foot of the eponymous mountain range of the Biellese Alps. It has been so affected by the wool industry’s decline and other issues, that it is considering cutting back on some municipal services, including the possible cessation of the funicular, or the Funicolare del Piazzo, which was severely damaged by past weather events.

Getting There

We took the train from Turin’s Porta Susa to Biella. It is easy and very cost effective and only takes about an hour.

Though a very liveable city, it is fairly quiet, but we found lacking in some amenities. It is also not a very pretty city, it had many empty stores while we were here and many buildings appeared to have maintenance issues. However, if you did not stray far from the main street of Via Italia you wouldn’t notice.

Typical Fascist Period Building – Via Torino – Biella, Italy

San Paolo Church Tower – Via Torino – Biella, Italy

Zumaglini Park – Via Italia – Biella, Italy

Old Building – Via S. Filippo and Via Italia – Biella, Italy

Piazza Biella

On the west side of the city, on top of the hill, is the Piazza Biella. A fifteen to twenty minute walk up the Costa del Piazza will bring you to the upper part of town. The cobbled street is a bit treacherous, so take care, especially if the weather is bad, the stones are quite slippery, even when dry.

Patti – Costa del Piazzo – Biella, Italy

Costa del Noci – Costa del Piazzo – Biella, Italy

Here you will find the Piazza Biella, which has a few cafes and bars to enjoy. Aside from that, it is very quiet.

Church of San Giacomo – Piazza Biella – Biella, Italy

Close by is the Piazza Mario Cucco, from where you will be able to get a fantastic view of the Biellese Alps.

Patti With The Alps In Background – Piazza Mario Cucco – Biella, Italy

Erick With The Alps In Background – Piazza Mario Cucco – Biella, Italy

Old Buildings – Piazza Mario Cucco – Biella, Italy

One the way down, we took the Costa San Sebastiano, which led us directly to the Basilica of San Sebastiano in Biella.

Patti – Costa San Sebastiano – Biella, Italy

Basilica Biella

The Basilica of San Sebastiano, together with the monastery of San Girolamo, stands as the pinnacle of the Biella Renaissance. Commissioned and funded by Sebastiano Ferrero, it featured artists from the Lombardy region for its masonry work. The church’s foundation stone was laid in 1500, and in honor of the patron, it was dedicated to San Sebastiano. The construction was overseen by Maestro Eusebio, who was present during the laying of the foundation stone. By 1504, the church’s walls were already finished, but it wasn’t consecrated until 1540 by Monsignor Guglielmo di Gattinara, the Bishop of Nicomedia.

Entrance – Basilica San Sebastiano – Biella, Italy

Interior – Basilica San Sebastiano – Biella, Italy

Cathedral of Biella

From the outside the Biella Cathedral, or Cathedral of Saint Stefano Protomartire, might almost remind one of a mosque, if it weren’t for the cross on the apex of the roof.

Entrance and Front – Cathedral of Saint Mary Assunta – Biella, Italy

However, from the inside there is no mistaking it for anything other than a catholic cathedral. Interestingly, the interior contors of the colums and relief of the ceiling are all a visual illusion and one of the best examples of trompe-l’œil. This is where the intricate details are painted on the existing stone, plaster or masonry to mimick definition or relief, when in fact there is none.

Interior – Cathedral of Saint Mary Assunta – Biella, Italy

If you look carefully you may find the original first foundation stone for the church, that is before it became of cathedral. It was set in the early fifteenth century and has been interpreted, first from the ancient latin, then into modern italian.

Foundation Stone – Cathedral of Saint Mary Assunta – Biella, Italy

The english translation would say, “1402, today on the 20th of March, construction of this church was begun by master Giovanni Borri.”

Foundation Stone Interpretation – Cathedral of Saint Mary Assunta – Biella, Italy

Biella Baptistery

Extremely close by the cathedral is the Baptistery of John the Baptist. Unfortunately, no entry is allowed. But a quick look of the outside and it is clear that it is a fairly old building.

Baptistry of John the Baptist – Via Battistero – Biella, Italy

Church of the Santissima Trinity

Directly off the Via Italia is the small church of Santissima Trinity. It has high vaulted ceilings with frescoes and a very ornate altar. Here again, the relief is mostly done using paint.

Restaurants

Since this was a day trip, we only had time to enjoy lunch. At first we had some difficulty and our first choice, the higly rated L’Arrugginita on the upper side of town, was completely booked. Then we mistakenly sat down in what we thought was a neapolitan pizzeria, which turned out to actually be a poke bowl bistro. Then finally we found Ristorante Il Salotto.

Ristorante Il Salotto

A very fine place for lunch, Il Salotto offers a tasty fixed priced menu at €17 for pasta (primi only), or €24 for the two course lunch (primi and secundi). For the extra seven euros a piece, we were able to order two primi pasta dishes and two secundi meat dishes, with bread, a glass of wine and water for total of €51.

Interior – Ristorante Il Salotto – Biella, Italy

The food was excellent, as was the service and decor. If you are ever in Biella, definitely one of the places to eat.

Ravioli with Cabbage and Meat – Ristorante Il Salotto – Biella, Italy

Pork Tenderloin in sauce with pickled onions – Ristorante Il Salotto – Biella, Italy

Patti – Ristorante Il Salotto – Biella, Italy

23 March, 202627 March, 2026

Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany – Bächle Everywhere

The one unique feature this city has over others that we have visited are its Bächle, or small streams or runnels that network themselves through most city streets. Though in the past they were used for waste disposal and fire suppression, their contemporary revision is much cleaner and used more for fun than anything functional.

Freiburg im Breisgau

The city lays on the lower west side of the Schwarzwald, or the Black Forest. It is an odd mixture of contemporary and renovated old buildings, but appears to be very liveable. They have an active tram system and local buses, though the residents do appear to enjoy walking for the most part.

Old Freiburger Zeitung Building – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany

Zum Meijerhof Restaurant Building – Grünwälderstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany

Getting There

It is almost necessary to use the A5 to reach the city, though I imagine there might be other ways as well. We entered from the north, via Europaplatz, where we found adequate parking nearby. Europaplatz offers access to the tram system and might be a good starting point for those not wishing to walk.

Habsburgerstraße – Europaplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany

Friedrichring – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany

Kaiser-Josephstraße – Monument – Europaplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany

The Bächle

The Bächle^[1]the term is Bächlein in german are on most streets, at least in the older parts of the city. As a child, if you’ve ever had the occasion to play in a small stream or ditch, then you would just love Freiburg im Breisgau. They sure delight the city children. The city appears to be very child friendly and they even sell little boats on a string for children to play with in the Bächle.

Ericka, Vlad and Gabi – Bächle – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany

Schwabentor

The Schwabentor, or Swabian Gate, is the most recent gate to the city and is located on Herrenstraße, another street which has a Bächle.

Herrenstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany

Freiburger Münster

The first bricks for the large gothik style Freiburger Münster, or Münster Unserer Lieben Frau, were laid around 1146. After several incantations as a small unassuming church through 1260, the church was redesigned with new importance in the late 1200s. It wasn’t until the late 1400s that it attained is final form one can see today.

Münsterplatz And Merchant’s Hall

The Münsterplatz is adjacent to the cathedral and includes several city buildings and businesses.

Münsterplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany

One historic building that stands out in Münsterplatz is the Historisches Kaufhaus, or Merchant’s Hall. With its striking red exterior it is impossible to miss and the result of contemporary renovations, having suffered bomb damage and other design changes throughout the years. The facade today is adorned with replicas of Holy Roman Emperors and an Archduke, who did not become emperor because he died before his father and didn’t inherit all of his father’s titles.

Merchants Hall – Münsterplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany

Augustinerplatz

Though not much to look at the Augustinerplatz is where the museum and several other important government buildings are located, including for us ironically, the Italian Consulate.

Gerberau – Augustinerplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany

Museum – Augustinerplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany

Connecting Augustinerplatz to Kaiser-Josephstraße is Gerberau street.

Gerberau – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany

Martinstor

A major gate in the city, aside from the swabian gate, or Scwabentor, is Martinstor. Located on Kaiser-Josephstraße, more or less in the center of town, the tower stands above all the other buildings. The street runs directly through the tower, like in many other walled cities in Germany and delineates the old city from its newer parts.

Restaurants

For our day trip we chose to have chinese or japanese and found a nice modern place that opened in the remains of the old Laubfrosch restaurant.

Unkai

If you are looking for either chinese or japanese cuisine look no further than Unkai Asian Fusion.

The decor inside is decidedly modern and the staff is very attentive to your needs, especially if that has to do with children.

References[+]

References
↑1	the term is Bächlein in german

5 June, 20259 June, 2025

Iceland, Reykjavik – Windy Weekend

On Sunday, the first of June, we traveled to Reykjavik, Iceland for a stop-over of a couple of days as we started our journey back to the United States. We arrived only to experience a truly deep extra-tropical cyclone that had set itself up off the coast of Iceland and gave us a memorably windy start to our trip back and the end of our weekend.

Getting There

From Turin we took the FrecciaRossa to Milan Central Station and then up to Malpensa Airport by regional train. The two trips combined were a bit over two hours and more or less uneventful, though one could see tourist travel has definitely picked up in recent weeks, so the trains were pretty full.

Icelandair – Airport – Keflavik, Iceland

Milan to Keflavik – Flying Over – Iceland

Milan to Keflavik – Coast Near Airport – Iceland

Having only a few days to experience what we could of this volcanic island, we decided to stay in Reykjavik. A good forty-five minute drive from Keflavik Airport to Reykjavik, you only have two options, by bus or by automobile (honestly I am not sure if there is an ocean option). It does not matter whether you arrange or book a transfer service through something like GetYourGuide, or take a taxi directly from the airport, both costs are pretty much the same. The bus however is a cheaper option at around $30 per passenger, but does leave you generally on the southern outskirts of town, so you will either have to walk from there or hire a taxi to get to your hotel.

Get Your Guide Transfer – Keflavik to Reykjavik- Iceland

Get Your Guide Transfer – Keflavik to Reyjkavik – Iceland

Reykjavik – The City

The city reminded me of a long lost outpost that has been built up over the decades. Even the airports are pieced together from left over vestiges of American activities during World War II. The house are generally clad in corrugated galvanized sheets typically used for roofing material. Many are painted in bright colors to enhance their roadside appeal.

Laugavegur – Main Pedestrian and Shopping Street – Reykjavik, Iceland

Side Street to Saebraut – Reykjavik, Iceland

Safnahúsið – House of Collections – Reykjavik, Iceland

Mixture of Architecture – Reykjavik, Iceland

Houses with Corrugate Metal Walls – Reykjavik, Iceland

Our Hotel

We stayed at the Sand Hotel in town, a Keahotel, of which there are a few in Reykjavik. We found it comfortable and central for our needs. A continental breakfast was included each morning, which we found to be actually a bit more than a mere continental breakfast and more than adequate for our needs. However, if you do not have a hotel with included breakfast, don’t worry, there are plenty of cafes, pastry and waffel shops around to grab a bite to eat in the morning.

Sand Hotel by Keahotels – Main Entrance – Reykjavik, Iceland

Saebraut And The Sun Voyager

Even though the weather did not cooperate much, we learned it rarely does in Iceland, a nice stroll along the Saebraut is a must. There is both a walkway and cycling lane that runs the length of the bay in Reykjavik. Here you will find the Sun Voyager, a stainless-steel sculpture by Jón Gunnar Árnason, that mimics a old Viking sailing boat.

Saebraut – The Sun Voyager – Reykjavik, Iceland

Skolavorduholt

A short walk up Rainbow Street and the highest hill in Reykjavik is the Skolavorduholt, the place where you will find the Hallgrimskirkja Lutheran Church and the monument to Lief Eriksson.

Rainbow Street – Runic Shop and the Brekkuholt House – Reykjavik, Iceland

Hallgrimskirkja Church

The church is impressive and easily the largest church on the island. It has an impressive apse and organ and an almost clean, if not antiseptic appearance inside. The pews are built so that can be easily switched, so you can either face the altar for services, or the organ for performances.

Hallgrimkirkja atop the Skolavorduholt – Leif Eriksson Monument – Reykjavik, Iceland

Hallgrimkirkja – Main Entrance – Reykjavik, Iceland

Hallgrimkirkja – Apse and Altar – Reykjavik, Iceland

Hallgrimkirkja – Grand Organ – Reykjavik, Iceland

Lief Eriksson

The monument of Lief Eriksson which stands directly outside in front of the entrance, gives historical credit to this noble adventurer and discoverer of the North America. The monument was gifted to the island in 1930 by the United States of America.

Skolavorduholt – Leif Eriksson Monument – Reykjavik, Iceland

Austurvöllur and Downtown

The Austurvöllur area is where many of the municiple buildings are located, as well as the Tjörnin, or “The Pond”. This body of water is a favorite for the school children during lunch and you can often find them feeding the ducks which collect along the shore for an easy meal.

Prime Minister’s Office – Reykjavik, Iceland

Tjarnarskóli ehf – Elementary School – Reykjavik, Iceland

Alþingishúsið – State Parliament Building – Reykjavik, Iceland

Apotek Hotel by Keahotels – Reykjavik, Iceland

Jon Sigurdsson Monument – Reykjavik, Iceland

The Old Harbor Boat Ramp – Reykjavik, Iceland

The Unknown Bureaucrat – Reykjavik, Iceland

Restaurants

The Scandinavian Bistro

Our first evening we ate at the Scandinavian Bistro and thoroughly enjoyed it. Though it does not have a lot of seating inside, it is adequate and does not feel overly crowded. The food was a bit overpriced for what you got, but that’s true of most places in Reykjavik since they import a majority of their foodstuffs.

Scandinavian Bistro – Entrance – Reykjavik, Iceland

Scandinavian Bistro – My $38 Hamburger with Fries – Reykjavik, Iceland

Rossopomodoro

A continental chain and restaurant serving Italian cuisine can be found on the Laugevegur. A restaurant that is in many European cities and provides basic italian cuisine and pizza at fair prices. We ate here one evening due to its proximity to our hotel and because it was Italian food.

Rossopomodoro – Ravioli – Reykjavik, Iceland

11 May, 202518 May, 2025

Bern, Switzerland – Medieval Town on the Aare

Bern was originally settled by Swabians^[1]The Zähringen noble family from around Freiburg im Breisgau in the twelfth century and quickly died out within a century. from the lower parts of Germany, it is the fifth largest in Switzerland and was initially surrounded by the Aare river on three sides, with fortifications protecting it’s west side.

Marktgasse – Zytglogge – Bern, Switzerland

Marktgasse – Bern Fresco – Bern, Switzerland

Getting There

Bern does not have a commercial airport, so you will either have use Zürich‘s or Geneva’s and then take a train. We had already started in Geneva, so taking one of the ICE trains from Geneva to Bern was automatic. However, in typical SBB^[2]Schweizerische BundesBahnen or Swiss train fashion, it was halted before leaving the Lake Léman area and we had to find another train to continue our two hour journey, which then turned into a three hour trip^[3]There have been few times when traveling by train in Switzerland was a normal affair. It is getting to be more like the Deutscher Bahn.

Bern Train Station – Main Entrance – Bern, Switzerland

Bern Train Station – Platform – Bern, Switzerland

Bern Train Station – Main Waiting Hall – Bern, Switzerland

The City

The old medieval city of Bern is rather compact, due to it being confined by the Aare river. The main train station is on the west side of the city, so it is probably best to find a hotel close to it. We stayed at the Hotel Savoy, three blocks away from the train station.

Gerberngasse – Interesting House – Bern, Switzerland

Nydeggbrücke – Rose Garden Hill and Paul Klee Center – Bern, Switzerland

Walking from the train station to the Nydeggbrücke, via the Marktgasse of Kramgasse, should not take more than a twenty-five to thirty minutes without stopping. The main shopping avenue is the Marktgasse, which is lined with many watch stores and most other modern shops you expect to see in city that is heavily traveled. See the restaurant section below for where to go for food.

Marktgasse – Anna Seiler Brunnen – Bern, Switzerland

Marktgasse – Porticos and Shops – Bern, Switzerland

Gerechtigkeitgasse – Kreuzgassbrunnen – Bern, Switzerland

Rathausgasse – Rathaus – Bern, Switzerland

Rooftops and Houses across the Aare river – Bern, Switzerland

Nydeggbrücke – Wasserwerkgasse from bridge – Bern, Switzerland

Brunnen Or Fountains

The city has a lot of brunnen, or fountains in English, especially down the middle of the Marktgasse. Most of these have figures or other mythical forms, stylized perhaps from some historical figure.

Marktgasse – Zähringer Brunnen – Bern, Switzerland

Marktgasse – Schützenbrunnen – Bern, Switzerland

Kramgasse – Simsonbrunnen – Bern, Switzerland

Münsterplatz – Mosesbrunnen – Bern, Switzerland

There is also the Lischetti-Brunnen, also known as the Postgassbrunnen or Upper Postgassbrunnen, which was erected in 1820 next to the Staatskanzelei (State Chancellery) and is to be used by anyone who wishes to experience being a fountain.

Lischettibrunnen – Kronenbrunner or Upper Postgass Fountain – Bern, Switzerland

Hotel Savoy

A fairly good hotel on the Kramgasse, sharing an entrance with another store. We found it reasonably priced for a Swiss hotel and central for visiting the city. The breakfast is rather expensive, as it is in most Swiss hotels, at 30CHF per person. We found this unreasonable and ventured out each morning to stop at one of the many Konditoreien, or pastry shops, in the neighborhood. This option ran around 9-10CHF per person, but was only coffee and a pastry, which for use was sufficient.

Cathedrals And Churches

A few religious buildings of note in Bern are the Cathedral of Bern and the Church of Saint Peter and Paul.

Cathedral Of Bern

Cathedral of Bern – History of Tower – Bern, Switzerland

Cathedral of Bern – Houses of Patrons – Bern, Switzerland

Cathedral of Bern – Intricate Facade over Entrance – Bern, Switzerland

Cathedral of Bern – Fountain – Bern, Switzerland

Cathedral of Bern – Backside – Bern, Switzerland

Church Of Saint Peter And Paul

Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Nave and Altar – Bern, Switzerland

Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Organ – Bern, Switzerland

Bridges And The Aare River

There are two central bridges that span the Aare at the tip of the city. The Untertorbrücke, the first one to be built and is shown on maps of the city from the seventeenth century, and the Nydeggbrücke, which carries the tram and modern vehicular traffic.

Untertorbrücke – Nydeggbrücke over the Aare – Bern, Switzerland

Untertorbrücke – The Aare River – Bern, Switzerland

Untertorbrücke – Patti and the Aare River – Bern, Switzerland

Untertorbrücke – Patti and the Aare River, Rose Garden on the hill – Bern, Switzerland

Untertorbrücke and the Aare River – Bern, Switzerland

Bären Park

On one end of the Nydeggbrücke is the Bärenpark, or Bear Park. As early as the beginning of the sixteenth century the city has been known to have a Bärengraben, or Bear Pit, of some type or another. Ostensibly the city becoming eponymously named for the same in 1191 when the Duke of Zähringen killed a bear first on one of his many famous hunts. But seriously, this is just conjecture and there is more evidence that it was from a pre-existing toponym of Celtic origin, possibly berna, meaning cleft.

Einsteinhaus

On Marktgasse 49, visitors will find the Einsteinhaus, or the apartment that Albert Einstein lived in during his publication of his ground breaking theories of 1905, including his Special Theory of Relativity.

Kramgasse 49 – Einstein House – Bern, Switzerland

The Rosengarden Bern

One top of the hill on the other side of the Aare river is the park containing the Rose Garden, or Rosengarden. Unfortunately for us, the roses were not in bloom in May, so we were unable to enjoy their colors. However, there were other flowers, trees and bushes to be enjoyed in the park.

Rose Garden – Patti on walkway up to garden – Bern, Switzerland

Rose Garden – Patti and the garden – Bern, Switzerland

Rose Garden – The garden – Bern, Switzerland

It is here, that Albert Einstein probably contemplated many of the problems around his Theory of Relativity, and a bench here so commemorates his efforts.

Rose Garden – Einstein bench and overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland

From this vantage point you get a very good view of the old Medieval city of Bern, with its many churches, bridges and old style houses.

Rose Garden – Overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland

Rose Garden – Erick and overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland

Restaurants

The Bärenplatz and Waisenhausplatz are central areas for restaurants and have a good mix of local Swiss restaurants to Italian and other cuisines.

Bärenplatz – Market on Waisenhausplatz – Bern, Switzerland

Santa Lucia Ristorante

Another Italian restaurant which has a very active lunch crowd. Here you can enjoy reasonable prices and a wide selection of Italian dishes, including pizza. Our first evening here we enjoyed the soup and spaghetti.

Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Spaghetti Bolognese – Bern, Switzerland

Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Spaghetti and Tomatoes – Bern, Switzerland

Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Banana Split – Bern, Switzerland

The second time we visited was for lunch, then I ordered a pizza, which was very good and typical of the Neapolitan style from Naples. The house wine is also very pleasant.

Santa Lucia Ristorante – Pizza Margherita – Bern, Switzerland

Ristorante Luce

On the corner of Zeughausgasse and Waghausegasse is the Italian restaurant of Ristorante Luce. If you are looking for higher end Italian food, look no further. The service here is also exceptional, though the seating was a bit cramped.

Ristorante Luce – Patti with her Soup – Bern, Switzerland

Here they serve very good Italian specialties and have an excellent wine list. Here you can find Strozzapreti, or Priest Strangler/Choker Pasta with Mozzarella. A rather large and somewhat gummy pasta with an very interesting history.

Ristorante Luce – Strozzapreti Pasta with Buffalo Mozzarella – Bern, Switzerland

I can specifically attest to spending 150CHF for a 375ml bottle of Ornellaia 2019. A DOC wine from Italy with extremely high ratings which regularly fetches $250-$800 a bottle, a truly amazing wine. So if you are a true wine lover, your pallet might enjoy this restaurant.

Ristorante Luce – Ornellaia Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019 – Bern, Switzerland

References[+]

References
↑1	The Zähringen noble family from around Freiburg im Breisgau in the twelfth century and quickly died out within a century.
↑2	Schweizerische BundesBahnen
↑3	There have been few times when traveling by train in Switzerland was a normal affair. It is getting to be more like the Deutscher Bahn