Rothenburg ob der Tauber is not doubt a miracle town amongst towns in Germany. Partially bombed during World War II, it took an American officer and the German commander of the city at the time to spare this town. The results of which, we are able to enjoy this middle-age town as it appears today, forty percent of which was nevertheless destroyed by allied bombing before it was stopped.
Panorama Tauber river valley – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
It is located in Bavaria and is about one and a half to two hours drive from the Frankfurt area on the A3 and A7, weather permitting of course. There are several parking areas to choose from for visitors, though we found street parking a block or so further out for free.
Plönlein with Kobolzeller Steige and Spitalgasse – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Rothenburg ob der Tauber
If it weren’t for it’s strange history at the end of World War II, this town would be easily overlooked. Not necessarily by Germans, but definitely by international tourists always looking for some interesting sidebar or reason to visit. Luckily, even on a Saturday, we did not find it all that busy for a tourist destination. We only hope that it will stay that way.
Patti, Dana, Gabi and Ericka – Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Patti and Erick – Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Patti and Dana – Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Ericka and Dana – Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Patti and Ericka – Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Marktplatz
The center square hosts various shops and restaurants, as well as the Town Hall and Ratstrinkstube Clock Tower. Saint George’s fountain can also be found here toward the lower part of the square.
Business shields – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Italian Ice place – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Spitalgasse with Spitalturm in distance – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Marktplatz – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Rathausturm – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Apotheke shield – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
St. George fountain – Marktplatz – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Dana – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Towers
Rothenburg has many towers on all sides of the town, especially on the eastern side. The main entrance towers are of course grander, but the little ones are no less impressive.
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The City Wall
It is one of only three towns in Germany which is still encompassed by a fully intact town wall. The eastern part of the wall, the one which we were actually able to walk on, was mostly repaired after its destruction at the end of the war.
Burgtorturm – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Old unused staircase – Burgtorturm – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Front and entrance – Burgtorturm – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Front and entrance – Burgtorturm – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Several parts are boarded up or unreachable, but many people from around the world contributed funds in the effort to reconstruct it, making it possible to enjoy it today. There are several main entry points, Gallows Gate, Thomas Tower and one near Ruckesse Tower, to name a few.
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Restaurants
There are many restaurants to choose from in Rothenburg, many of which are located in or near the town square. Luckily, we failed on locating an Italian restaurant that was open, but it is August and the Italians are notorious for taking the entire month off for vacation. That forced to find the amazing place that we did below.
Reichsküchenmeister – Das Herz von Rothenburg
If you are able to obtain a seat in the garden, one of the go to places in Rothenburg for a weekend lunch or early dinner.
Reichskückenmeisterer – Herz von Rothenburg restaurant – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
The garden is just amazing, a totally relaxed atmosphere where we were fortunate enough to have a very responsive waiter. The menu is varied enough where one should be able to find something to fit their culinary needs.
Erbsensuppe – Reichskückenmeisterer – Herz von Rothenburg restaurant – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Mixed salad – Reichskückenmeisterer – Herz von Rothenburg restaurant – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Mixed salad with Feta – Reichskückenmeisterer – Herz von Rothenburg restaurant – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Caprese salad – Reichskückenmeisterer – Herz von Rothenburg restaurant – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Erick and Patti – Reichskückenmeisterer – Herz von Rothenburg restaurant – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Dana, Gabi and Ericka – Reichskückenmeisterer – Herz von Rothenburg restaurant – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
After spending a week in Frankfurt, we decided to spend some time in München, or Munich, Germany. The most affective way to do this from Frankfurt is by train, particularly the ICE DB service. In three hours and some odd number of minutes, you can travel between the two main train stations in comfort.
ICE Train to Munich – Storm Front – München, Germany
With most of the family here, we were seven and traveling by train such a short distance just made the most sense, since our daughter and son-in-law had our grandson along. This gave him some added room to walk around an annoy other people instead of just us, breaking up the monotony of the journey. Not really, but it did provide him enough space to get the wiggles out, as opposed to other modes of transport, like an airplane or automobile.
München
The largest city in Bayern, or Bavaria, Munich is a large, bustling city completely accustomed to tourists and tourism. If you are a mono-lingual English speaker, you will find no problem getting around in Munich, most of the residence and restaurant staff speak fluent English.
Marianplatz
The largest and most central of the squares or piazzas in Munich is the Marianplatz. It is most likely your U- or S-Bahn destination from the Hauptbahnhof and the energetic core of the tourism industry.
Marianplatz and the new Rathaus – München, Germany
The Marianplatz is girdled with high-end shopping, caffes and tourism shops. It also has many historical monuments and fountains, as well as churches and other places of interest.
Neues Rathaus and Glockenspiel
Most people will likely concentrate on the Old City, Marianplatz where the Glockenspiel plays it’s tune everyday at eleven and twelve o’clock (sometimes at seventeen o’clock in the winter).
Neues Rathaus – München, Germany
Der Affenturm – München, Germany
Isar Tor – München, Germany
It plays a rather long ditty that includes the operation of the top and then the bottom carousel of automatons.
Altstadt-Lehel
This region of München lies just to the north of the old city, or Altstadt. Here is where you will find the palaces, gardens and other grand accoutrements of the city.
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English Gardens
A large garden located to the north of the main part of the city, it is a very nice place to visit on a sunny day. A large city park with many different things to see and experience, it even has a place that people go to surf, if one can believe such a thing can exist away from the coast in a city.
English Gardens – München, Germany
English Gardens – München, Germany
English Gardens – München, Germany
English Gardens – München, Germany
English Gardens – München, Germany
English Gardens – München, Germany
Eisbachwelle
Just on the south east end of the gardens you will discover the river Eisbach and the Eisbachwelle. This is a fast moving stream that has been conveniently modified through the use of carefully placed stones into a haven for surf-boarders. It’s amazing to stop for a bit just to see their skill and how they are able to throw their boards in and hop on in all but an instant, truly remarkable.
Eisbachwelle – München, Germany
Eisbachwelle – München, Germany
Maximiliansanlagen and the Isar
Another great place for a stroll is Maximilian’s garden. A very well kept park which stretches along the Isar and the Isarinsel or island that provides a cool contemplative place for de-stressing and an escape from the warm summer midday.
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Here you will find the Friedensengel monument and several other interesting points of interest. The two bridges that bound it, the Luitpoldbrücke and the Maximiliansbrücke provide pedestrian friendly points of entry.
The Great Cascades – München, Germany
The Great Cascades – München, Germany
The Great Cascades – München, Germany
The Isar below the Great Cascades – München, Germany
The Isar – Luitpoldbrücke – München, Germany
The Isar – München, Germany
Of note are the Große Kascaden, or Great Cascades, a series of weirs and fish ladders that provide a series of small waterfalls. The Wehr WKW-Praterkraftwerk, or power station, is built into the structure to provide electric power to the city. Through thoughtful design of constructing flood control they have provided electricity as well.
Restaurants
We spent time at the following restaurants. Some are must see, even though the food will not be up to expectations. We found the smaller establishments to be better, especially the service and cleanliness.
Hofbräuhaus
Well, perhaps the largest and most well-known beerhall in München, the Munich Hofbräuhaus is as large and as busy as it will get in a place to eat. They have a gift shop to match your expectations for a large one liter glass.
Entrance – Hofbräuhaus – München, Germany
Carved face – Hofbräuhaus – München, Germany
The band was great and our food was okay. Service is always going to be a problem at such a large establishment, that’s why I prefer the smaller places.
However, if you can overlook the local fauna, an interesting place to eat and drink. I have found a lack of service usually indicates a lack of cleanliness; if they cannot serve you, they cannot clean properly either – just a thought. In any case, one of the go-to places and a must see. Have a drink and if the fauna bother you, avoid the rest of the menu.
Salad – Der Pschorr restaurant – München, Germany
Sauerbraten with Knudel – Zum Dürnbräu – München, Germany
Der Pschorr
Another very good place for German food, perhaps the best that we had while in Munich. The service was very good as well, they kind of went out of their way to welcome families with children. You will find the place open and inviting with a good menu and food. Jett, Meagan and Jason’s baby ate for free, something not seen too often today.
Der Pschorr restaurant – München, Germany
Der Pschorr restaurant – München, Germany
Salad – Der Pschorr restaurant – München, Germany
Burg Pappenheim
One of Dana’s picks and an attempt to find that authentic German restaurant look and feel. It was really close, we found only one waiter that spoke English here, the others spoke German for the most part, though I was confident they could completely understand English.
Entrance – Burg Pappenheim restaurant – München, Germany
Old Augustiner faß – Burg Pappenheim restaurant – München, Germany
Burg Pappenheim restaurant – München, Germany
Burg Pappenheim restaurant – München, Germany
Dana, Meagan, Jett, Jason and Patti – Burg Pappenheim restaurant – München, Germany
Augustiner am Platzl
Overall a good place for German food. The service is better and the staff seems more attentive to customer needs. The food is also better, both tastier and presentation-wise. They can also accommodate larger families without the squeeze. There is however no band, so if you are looking for the Umpa-band look and feel, you will not find it here.
Augustiner am Platzl – München, Germany
Augustiner am Platzl – München, Germany
Augustiner am Platzl – München, Germany
The food and service were very good and the atmosphere a mix of old and new Bavaria. This restaurant is a bit out of the way and a bit of a walk from the city center, but worth the visit.
Zum Dürnbräu
Here we had a pleasant meal outside not far from our hotel, even though the weather was a bit questionable with rain possible. The service was a bit slow, but the food was good and we had a very good time. The sauerbraten was first rate and I got to try the Apfelküchle, or fried apple rings with cinnamon and light sugar, which I found delightful.
Entrance and terrace – Zum Dürnbräu – München, Germany
Sauerbraten with Knudel – Zum Dürnbräu – München, Germany
Apfelküchle – Zum Dürnbräu – München, Germany
Tavernetta Cucina con Pizza
After some time German food creates issues that only Italian food can cure. When you come to this Rubicon, you can cross by considering a place like Tavernetta, where you can enjoy some Italian food. They have a good menu, good service and the prices are not astronomical.
Entrance – Tavernetta Cucina with Pizza – München, Germany
Sign – Tavernetta Cucina with Pizza – München, Germany
Small Caprese – Tavernetta Cucina with Pizza – München, Germany
Tagliatelle Bolognese – Tavernetta Cucina with Pizza – München, Germany
With a cohort of eight, we found it impossible with only one car to make a day trip on the weekend of August the 17th, so we took the Regional Train direct from Offenbach Hauptbahnhof (Hbf). In 25 mintues with the RE51 you can be in Gelnhausen, or with the RB51 slightly longer; both operate often and at regular intervals.
Overlook of the town – Gelnhausen, Germany
Gelnhausen
An unusual destination for non-Germans, Gelnhausen does not offer much but a change of scenery, a lazy stroll in the park and perhaps different opportunities to eat.
Kinzig River – Gelnhausen, Germany
Ziegelturm – Gelnhausen, Germany
Kinzig River – Gelnhausen, Germany
Ziegelturm – Gelnhausen, Germany
Schmidtgasse – Gelnhausen, Germany
Untermarkt – Gelnhausen, Germany
The town is separated into lower and upper market places, or Unter- and Obermarkt, both of which act as parking lots for locals and visitors alike. Since we took the train, the entry to the town was over the Kinzig river and through the Ziegelturm.
Houses of timber – Gelnhausen, Germany
Innenstadt – Gelnhausen, Germany
Untermarkt – Gelnhausen, Germany
Obermarkt – Gelnhausen, Germany
Untermarkt – Gelnhausen, Germany
Hotel in the Obermarkt – Gelnhausen, Germany
Walking the narrow streets of Gelnhausen the visitor will notice numerous timber houses with sayings on them. In many towns, this is an old practice which has been used probably for centuries, either to provide some humor or commentary on the events of the time.
More sayings – Gelnhausen, Germany
Pfarrgasse – Gelnhausen, Germany
Cute sayings on house – Gelnhausen, Germany
Very old house – Gelnhausen, Germany
More timber houses – Stadtgarten Halbmond – Gelnhausen, Germany
Altstadt Hotel – Gelnhausen, Germany
On the other end of town, after the Obermarkt you can wander through the Holzgasse Tower to find the old town wall. Here you will enjoy a very nice park with an overlook of the town and surrounding area.
No weather maintenance (snow) – Stadtgarten Halbmond – Gelnhausen, Germany
Town – Stadtgarten Halbmond – Gelnhausen, Germany
Town overlook from wall – Stadtgarten Halbmond – Gelnhausen, Germany
Not far from the entrance is a memorial to the fallen soldiers of the town from the two world wars.
War Memorial – Stadtgarten Halbmond – Gelnhausen, Germany
War Memorial – Stadtgarten Halbmond – Gelnhausen, Germany
The town also has a few other monuments or fountains worth visiting.
Schoeller memorial – Gelnhausen, Germany
Statue in the Obermarkt – Gelnhausen, Germany
Stadtplan – Gelnhausen, Germany
Old town fountain – Gelnhausen, Germany
Restaurants
There are many restaurants in this small town, though few were open. However, from what we could tell, there would be many cuisines to choose from had the other restaurants been open.
Malamatina’s Greek Restaurant
Off the beaten path and not far from the Obermarkt, is Malamatina’s Greek restaurant. Though the sign says, Greek and German food, we didn’t see much in the way of German food on the menu..
Our trip from Bad Gastein to Linz took us through the Berchtesgaden Alps of Salzburg. As the train starts to navigate through the narrow pass of Salzachtal, the mountains rear up quickly to the point where you aren’t even able to take a photograph of them anymore from the train window.
Coming into Salzburg – Salzburg, Austria
Coming into Salzburg – Salzburg, Austria
Linz The City
Linz is a typical Austrian city and the capital of Upper Austria or OberÖsterreich. It is for the most part clean and has the typical European city layout, with an old medieval part surrounded by a newer main street and some other ancillary shopping avenues in a more planned pattern.
Overlook of Linz – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Linz has somewhat of a checkered past and has had a difficult time getting out from under that reputation; there are reminders in the city everywhere, with it’s Hitlerbauten. Aside from that, the places of interest are all in an area comparable to places like Munich or even Copenhagen. So, you should be able to reach everything within a good twenty to thirty minute walk.
Danube Park – Linz, Austria
Danube Park – Linz, Austria
Nibelungen Bridge – Linz, Austria
Nibelungen Bridge – Linz, Austria
Nibelungen Bridge – Linz, Austria
Danube river – Nibelungen Bridge – Linz, Austria
One comes away with the immediate impression that few, if any of the structures are original. This is probably partially due to the war and the Linzers going contemporary, when they can. The bridges that jump the Danube are for the most part modern, as is much of the architecture in the city. At times you could mistake the city for a similar place in the United States, since many of the shops use English and have cosmopolitan origins.
The Innenstadt
Most restaurants, cafes and shops seem to be along the Hauptstraße in the Innenstadt. Here is where you will find the main tram line, which goes the entire length of this street all the way across the bridge to Urfahr on the other side.
Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Neptune’s Fountain – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Dreifälitigsaule – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Dreifälitigsaule – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Churches
There are several churches worth visiting while in Linz, with special attention to Ursuline and Marien Dom if you are pressed for time. The following two were photographed, but not open at the time. Ignatius Church is also known as the Alter Dom and was the primary church prior to the Linzer Dom being built.
Priester Seminary and church – Linz, Austria
Ignatius Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Ursuline Church
The Ursuline Church is on Landstraße and is somewhat difficult to photograph from the street.
Ursuline Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
However, it has a magnificent inside which many will find interesting.
Inside – Ursuline Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Inside – Ursuline Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Side altar – Ursuline Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Martin Luther Church
In true protestant style, both the outside and inside of the church are rather basic. But from a historical perspective, still interesting to visit.
Martin Luther Church – Linz, Austria
Martin Luther Church – Linz, Austria
Inside – Martin Luther Church – Linz, Austria
Marien Dom
This is Linz’s Cathedral and the largest church in Linz and in Austria. The Marien-Dom is also known as Mariä-Empfängnis-Dom, the New Cathedral or the Linzer Dom. It borders the Altstadt and can be found along the Herrenstraße and Baumbachstraße
Front – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Spire – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
It is a true cathedral and adheres true to the dimensions of the cross in its architecture (seen from the air).
High altar wth crown – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
High altar – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Organ – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Nave – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Inside – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
The Altstadt
The old part of the city is rather small and unremarkable. It is near the Castle and park and runs up to the Upper Austrian government buildings. A short walk down the Hofgasse will bring you to the Schloßberg where the old castle and its grounds are maintained.
Altstadt – Linz, Austria
Former Kremsmünster Abbey. – Altstadt – Linz, Austria
Government building and tower – Altstadt – Linz, Austria
Mozart Forum house – Linz, Austria
The Old Town Hall – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Schloßberg Castle
The Schloßberg Castle is not open on Mondays, so before going there you may want to check the entries times and dates. The other direction you can take to reach the castle is via Tiefergraben and walking through the back part of the park first. Walking this way first you will come across Martins Church and a statue of Kepler.
Old buildings – Tiefer Graben – Linz, Austria
Tiefer Graben – Linz, Austria
Castle city gate – Tiefer Graben – Linz, Austria
Martins church – Linz, Austria
Inside – Martins church – Linz, Austria
Martins Gate – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Kepler’s Monument – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Castle Gate – Castle park – Linz, Austria
The castle is another example of the Linzers throwing old and new architecture together. We are not at all to happy with this trend (including the Louvre in Paris), however, we do not live in the city either and its people obviously feel a need to move forward and live in a more contemporary setting.
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The grounds have a small park which has a few monuments in it and a very good overlook of the Danube river and Pöstlingberg.
Observation point – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Pöstlingbergbahn And Pöstlingberg
A good half day trip is taking the tram up to Pöstlingberg using the Pöstlingbergbahn or tram. It starts in the Hauptplatz and stops several times along the way to service local residents and students, since there are a few university stops along the way.
Tickets For Two – Pöstlingbergbahn – Linz, Austria
Entrance Pöstlingbergbahn Museum – Linz, Austria
Tram stop Landgutstraße – Pöstlingbergbahn – Linz, Austria
Pöstlingberg stop – Pöstlingbergbahn – Linz, Austria
Castle park entrance – Pöstlingbergbahn – Linz, Austria
The view of Linz once you reach the top is truly worth the time and effort.
Overlook – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Wallfahrts Basilica
On the top of Pöstlingberg sits the Wallfahrts Basilica of the Sieben Schmerzen Mariae, or the Seven Pains of Mary. It has a commanding view of Linz and the surrounding areas.
Outside view – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Towers – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
The basilica inside is quite impressive and is also known as the Pöstlingberg Pilgrimage Church.
Inside – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
It also has a very nice park adjacent to it where you can leisurely stroll while the cool air up there offers a breeze on warm days.
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Grottenbahn
There is also the Grottenbahn for those that have children or are young at heart. Apparently, it is a miniature railway inside that takes young people fantasy ride where there are gnomes and other fairytale characters, most likely with an emphasis on European tales.
Grottenbahn or train – Linz, Austria
Grottenbahn entrance – Linz, Austria
Though we did not take the adventure, we found the cost for one adult to be around 6€/person.
Restaurants
Since we were both feeling a bit under the weather, due to an unusual virus we had both caught; we decided to eat in at the hotel most evenings. Below are the exceptions to that rule and are special places to eat while in Linz.
Jindrak Konditorei
Located throughout Linz are copies of this original konditorei located on Herrenstraße in the altstadt. They are known for the amazing Linzer Torte and other baked delicacies. For any serious dessert lover and a must Kaffee und Kucken stop in mid afternoon when in Linz.
Herrenstraße – Linz, Austria
Jindrak Konditorei – Herrenstraße – Linz, Austria
Linzer Tort – Jindrak Konditorei – Herrenstraße – Linz, Austria
Yesterday, since the weather was definitely improving, we decided to take a walk or hike to Böckstein, another town along the river that feeds the majestic Gasteiner Falls.
Looking back toward Bad Gastein – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
To get there you can hike the Kaiserin Elisabethe Promenade, which is for the most part paved and relatively flat. It is probably important to remember to bring water, since there is not much wind in the valley and the sun can make it quite hot without any shade or clouds to protect you.
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Böckstein
Located a bit more than three kilometers south of Bad Gastein is Böckstein, a small hamlet of houses at the nexus of the Pallner Bach and the Naßfelder Ache.
Signage for bikers and walkers – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Anlauftal – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
The town center has some historical buildings and items of interest, and of course a museum that was not open. Check the times, because like many other businesses in the area, they are probably only open from 15:00 – 18:00. However, if you do get to visit, definitely stop, I heard the museum is quite interesting and well presented.
Local Music Group – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Memorial, Montan museum – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Ehemalige Goldschlämmanlage – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Apartment house for laborers – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Park and Fountain – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Jagdschlössl Czernin – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Böckstein – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Maria, Mutter vom Guten Rat – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Within the park there is an old mining train on display. The Elektrische Grubenlokomotive, or electric mining train, is part of the Montanmuseum of Böckstein and a very interesting find for train enthusiasts.
Electric Grubenzug for a Grubenbahn – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Mannschaftstransportwagen – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Grubenzug – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Grubenzug – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Restaurants
The unfortunate thing about Bad Gastein is the lack of restaurants. There are about a handful of them that are owned by the same entity that owns our hotel, therefore the menu in each becomes rather predictable. Our hotel does have the Ritz restaurant, however it only offers a five-course meal at a fix priced. Which is in and off itself okay, but the quantity of food sometimes is just too much.
Angelo Pizzeria
Located on Karl-Heinrich-Waggerl-Straße, Angelo Pizzeria is actually part of the group that owns the Salzburger Hof hotel. It is usually open from 15:00 to 20:00 and has fairly good pizza. The soup was actually quite good, I had their tomato soup with creme fraiche and it was very tasty.
Their mixed salad is a typical German gemischter Salat, where everything is actually not mixed, but placed next to each other. So all of the grated carrots, sliced cucumbers and tomatoes line the bowl. Moreover, on the bottom of your mixed greens, you will find a surprise of traditional coleslaw or chopped cabbage, beans, sliced beets and German potato salad styled potatoes.
Wirtshaus Jägerhäusl
This restaurant does not belong to the chain mentioned above and offers a happy alternative to the same menu. The decor is appealing and it is also in a quiet area, away from the Silver Bullet Bar that plays loud music.
Front – Wirsthaus Jägerhäusl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Inside – Wirsthaus Jägerhäusl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Here you can actually find a Minestrone soup and other dishes that are well prepared and taste great. We both ordered the soup, I ordered the chicken sandwich and Patti ordered the chicken schnitzel. With a bottle of water it all came to 57€, which we found reasonable for the area.
Minestrone soup – Wirsthaus Jägerhäusl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Chicken Sandwich with fries – Wirsthaus Jägerhäusl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Today it’s off to the top of the Stubnerkogel and a day on the mountain.
We left Turin early in the morning on the 5:50AM train, in order to catch the FrecciaRossa from Turin to Milan. Of course, due to the early hour, we used the Wetaxi Application and ordered a taxi for 12€ to take us to Porta Nuovo, the main train station in this part of the city.
Torino Train Station – Turin, Italy
Torino Train Station – Turin, Italy
Patti on the Freccia Rossa between Turin and Milan – Turin, Italy
Freccia Rossa to Venezia – Milan, Italy
Our connecting FrecciaRossa, took us from Milan to Venice Maestre, where we picked up our Austrian ÖBB train to Villach, Austria. Luckily, all of our connections, and there were four, worked without issue.
Mölltal valley – Bad Gastein, Austria
Mölltal valley – Bad Gastein, Austria
Mölltal valley – Bad Gastein, Austria
An hour train north of Villach, Austria you can find the small health spa town of Bad Gastein. Though a shadow of its former self, when dignitaries and other luminaries used to visit for its waters and mountain air, it is still worth a visit, if not only for the aforementioned reasons.
View from Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Quiet, spa zone – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Gastein
The town runs at a slower pace than other mountains towns we have visited. Perhaps it is more difficult to capture tourist monies with a waterfall and health resort as the primary attractions, as opposed to say a very large mountain or a large ski resort complex.
Pfarrkircke and looking toward the town center – Bad Gastein, Austria
There are parts of the town center that appear to be in eternal repair. Though there is work going on here and there, it does not appear to have progressed much in the last few years. The thermal water fountain building and the old Kurhotel of Austria appear permanently closed. Unfortunately, there are no signs posted explaining the reason, so we were just left to ponder what might have happened.
Bismark House – Bad Gastein, Austria
Pfarrkircke – Bad Gastein, Austria
Franz Schubert denkmal – Bad Gastein, Austria
Lower waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Hotels
Hotel Salzburger Hof
We stayed at the Salzburger Hof, a very large hotel close to the train station with all the amenities. It appears to be one of the better kept establishments in Bad Gastein, with two pools, three restaurants and a health spa. Apparently host to Count von Bismark and other dignitaries, including many American personalities.
Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Flowers – Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
The rooms are very spacious and well appointed. The hotel seems proud of its tradition of important guests, there are photographs of everyone who has visited hung throughout the hotel and in the rooms.
The Ritz restaurant – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Ritz restaurant – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Our room – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Our view – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Kaiser was here – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Lobby – Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Lobby – Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Gasteiner Falls
The main attraction in the center of town now are the falls. The great Gasteiner Waterfalls are indeed impressive, especially after the storm that has just passed through this region of Europe. Since a video is worth a thousand words, here are a few.
It is easy enough to get a glimpse of the waterfalls by walking the main road through town and stopping at the bridge.
Town Center – Bad Gastein, Austria
Memorial – Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Garmskarkogel mountain and Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Downstream – Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Downstream waterfall – Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Waterfall way – Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
After taking in their beauty from the bridge, there are also other vantage points from which the falls may be enjoyed. But, that requires a bit of climbing and some hiking, all of which can be done with modern sneakers, not equipment necessary.
Patti – Upper Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Erick – Upper Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Upper Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
The history of Gasteine – Bad Gastein, Austria
The waterfall way – Bad Gastein, Austria
Upper waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Looking down from the bridge – Upper waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Upper waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
There is a section above the falls where they were purposely redirected some years ago by a dam that was built by a member of the clergy. This forces all the current water down a single corridor within the rocks.
Hiking Trails
There are numerous trails for walking, hiking and biking around town. For our first day our we chose the one that visited the Upper Gastein Falls and then descended towards lower Bad Gastein.
Looking toward the Mölltal valley – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Mölltal valley – Bad Gastein, Austria
Pfarrkircke and looking toward the Mölltal valley – Bad Gastein, Austria
Pfarrkircke and looking toward the town center – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Gastein – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Mölltal valley – Bad Gastein, Austria
Pfarrkircke and looking toward the Mölltal valley – Bad Gastein, Austria
Pfarrkircke clock tower – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Reitlpromenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Restaurants
La Pizzeria Napoletana
A very small Italian pizzeria stuck in the back of a another building right next to the Gasteiner Falls is the La Pizzeria Napoletana.
La Pizzeria Napoletana – Bad Gastein, Austria
Their tomato and mozzarella pizza is thin and very tasty. This restaurant has a minimal menu of pizza, beer, soft drinks and some wine, there is little else to choose from if you are really hungry.
Pizza Tomato and Mozzerella – La Pizzeria Napoletana – Bad Gastein, Austria
The pizza is authentic, right down to its crust. The prices are very reasonable and emblematic of what you would expect in a small town or city in Italy.
Orania Stueberl Restaurant
A restaurant that is almost always open, it is a good go-to place when you have few if any options. The food is good, but rather predictable, but that could be said for the rest of the cuisine in this small town.
Entrance – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Murmeltier – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
A salad and Gulash with Knödeln – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Ice cream with cream and chocolate sauce – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
The interior is adorned with numerous sacrificial animals that were ostensibly killed locally and now inhabit this restaurant’s walls. I guess I never understood if this practice was supposed to be in honor of the animal that was killed, or in spite of it. In any case, it appears a bit overdone.
The Ritz restaurant – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Inside – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
The bar – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Dead animals on walls – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Below are some final meanderings about the city, several other places that we ate and a few places that we saw, that just didn’t fit in any of the former entries.
Copenhagen
Some final thoughts on the city and its location. The weather when we were here was borderline terrible. So if you plan on visiting, you should check the extended forecast prior to packing. It was August and we dealt with temperatures in the 50-60°F range with rain. After the first few days, we just had to ask someone if this what the weather is always like. We were told that the weather is extremely variable and they have even seen snow in the middle of summer! Again, be prepared. We packed both long and short pants and shirts, along with raincoats and glad we did; but only because we knew the forecast had low temperatures and rain.
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Our Canal Tour
Touring a city such as Copenhagen, which has plenty of canals and waterways, would not be complete without a canal or boat tour. There are plenty to choose from and you can visit the Information Center to find our more or the city’s website. Make sure you prepare properly for the weather, few boats on the canal tours are covered and those only leave at certain times of the day, so plan accordingly, they do go in the rain.
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They also go in extraordinary high tides as well. Our tour was modified because the tides had come in extra high, leaving little space under the bridges. Therefore, we could not go down some canals and I think our tour ended up a bit longer that it probably should have been.
Trinitatis Kirke
Trinitatis Kirke, or Trinitatis church, is a church built in the seventeenth century that is connected to The Round Tower. It was initially built to support the university, since it was part of the overall Trinitatis Complex. The Library Hall, which is built over one of the church’s naves dictated the size of the church when it was originally constructed. In any event, the church has a baroque look and feel to it which may be of interest to some and the organ is certainly something you should see.
Inside Trinitatis Church – The Round Tower – Copenhagen, Denmark
Trinitatis Church – Copenhagen, Denmark
Ornate Organ – Trinitatis Church – Copenhagen, Denmark
The Round Tower
The Round Tower is actually an odd building for several reasons. At first I thought it was a shot tower, where they used to make gunshot or ball bearings. It just did not make any sense to me to build such a structure with a central column and a ramp for horses, unless it had some manufacturing purpose. Moreover, the rebus on the building has been loosely interpreted as Lead, God and The Correct Teaching; which also initially reinforced my belief that it had some military purpose; the telescope and Library Hall being repurposed after other ways to make ammunition came into vogue.
Entrance and Inscription – The Round Tower – Copenhagen, Denmark
Side – The Round Tower – Copenhagen, Denmark
I surprised to find the edifice was built with a ramp inside so that the horses where able to bring the heavy equipment up the tower for the telescope installation. The central column was later intentionally used as a toilet by the staff who found it arduous to walk down the ramp to go to the bathroom.
Internal Ramp – The Round Tower – Copenhagen, Denmark
Internal column, old cesspool – The Round Tower – Copenhagen, Denmark
Patti on her way up – The Round Tower – Copenhagen, Denmark
Internal Ramp – The Round Tower – Copenhagen, Denmark
The old Library Hall, now Art Exhibit – The Round Tower – Copenhagen, Denmark
Commemoration – The Round Tower – Copenhagen, Denmark
The telescope installation was built on top of the tower some time after that was completed. The Library Hall was initially used as a library and has now been repurposed as an Art Exhibition hall.
Zodiac Timepiece – The Round Tower – Copenhagen, Denmark
The Solar System – The Round Tower – Copenhagen, Denmark
There are also a few astronomical oddities to see, if you look up while you are waiting for the light to change to ascend to the observation lookout. They are a map of the solar system and a zodiac timepiece.
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Restaurants
Some last insights into food and some places to go or avoid.
Nebbiolo
Essentially a wine bar serving Aperitivo, or charcuterie and other small items to eat while you enjoy their wine. Since we were not particularly hungry one evening, we tried this place which happened to be right next door to the Chinese restaurant we visited.
Nebbiolo Restaurant – Copenhagen, Denmark
Charcuterie and antipasti – Nebbiolo Restaurant – Copenhagen, Denmark
Dong Yuan
A very good Chinese restaurant right around the corner from our hotel. The place is always busy, but it does take reservations. The prices are reasonable, considering the prices in the rest of Copenhagen. They also have half-bottles of wine at a very good price, I would commend a Bordeaux.
Dong Yuan – Copenhagen, Denmark
Inside – Dong Yuan – Copenhagen, Denmark
Inside – Dong Yuan – Copenhagen, Denmark
Very good Bordeaux wine – Dong Yuan – Copenhagen, Denmark
Taste
A lunch establishment with very limited seating, so show up early if you want one. We sat inside, since the weather was intolerable and the outside seating had little, if any cover. The food is good, but a bit oily. The grilled sandwich I ordered could not be picked up, so I had to cut it into pieces using a knife and fork.
Taste Restaurant – Copenhagen, Denmark
Neapolitan Sandwich with mushrooms and salad, Tomato salad with greens – Taste – Copenhagen, Denmark
Bistro Verde
This was a quick find before we left Copenhagen for Turin. This restaurant offers a Sunday Brunch at a decent price, the only problem was, it was a vegan dish. So we just ordered a pair of normal cappuccinos and croissants and enjoyed the beautiful Sunday morning before leaving.
Our trip started at Turin’s Porta Susa train station. For a little over 12€/person, you can purchase a one-way commuter ticket on Piedmont’s Sfm4 line to Alba, which takes about an hour and twenty minutes to get there, going through Bra first, which can also be a stop on your itinerary.
Porta Susa Terminal – Turin, Italy
Porta Susa Terminal – Turin, Italy
Alba
Alba train station – Alba, Italy
Anyone serious about wine or truffles has to visit Alba, Italy. Located an hour or so south of Turin, it is a bustling center for both, especially in the Fall when both of these products are harvested. Our whole intent on visiting the town was a wine tour we had booked for Barolo and Barbaresco (covered in my next post), but we decided to grab a hotel and enjoy an extra day just to explore.
Valerio Berruti sculptor – Alba, Italy
Piazza Michele Ferrero – Alba, Italy
Corso Michele Coppino – Alba, Italy
Porticos in Alba – Alba, Italy
The streets of Alba are well kept – Alba, Italy
Hotel Casa Della Torre – Alba, Italy
Piazza Risorgimento – Alba, Italy
Giorgio Busca Theater – Alba, Italy
The town is rather self contained and almost in the shape of a loose hexagon, owing to its ancient Roman ancestry as a fortification no doubt. There are several places where these ancient ruins are evident and demonstrate how the town itself is constructed upon them, using them as a foundation. There are also underground caverns and tunnels that can be explored, but arrangements have to be made ahead of time in order to visit them.
Roman Theater and Palazzo Marro remains – Alba, Italy
Roman Theater and Palazzo Marro remains – Alba, Italy
The town has numerous towers and it was once known as the town with a hundred towers. These were most likely constructed as lookouts and were defensive in nature.
The towers of Alba – Alba, Italy
Three towers of Alba – Alba, Italy
Piazza Paertinace – Alba, Italy
Palazzo Communale and Cathedral of San Lorenzo – Alba, Italy
Another bell tower – Alba, Italy
There are also numerous churches, as is true of most Italian towns and cities. The cathedral, or Duomo, occupies a central place near the town’s marketplace and between the Piazza Duomo and Piazza Rossetti. The interior is typical for its size and function.
Cathedral of San Lorenzo – Alba, Italy
Other churches, including the Church of the Maddalena, actually have more interesting and elaborate interiors. One, the Church of Saint John the Baptist, looks more like a provincial library than a church inside.
Chiesa della Maddalena, via Vincenzo Gioberti – Alba, Italy
Chiesa della Maddalena – Alba, Italy
Chiesa della Maddalena – Alba, Italy
Chiesa della Maddalena – Alba, Italy
Hotel Dellatorre
A three star hotel, which is actually more of a converted Bed-n-Breakfast, than a real hotel. It is more like a cafe/bar that has added rooms and tries to call itself a hotel. All the rooms are separate and there is no main structure with hallways, they all have external doors.
Hotel Casa Della Torre – Alba, Italy
Hotel Casa Della Torre – Alba, Italy
The owner runs a cafe or bar as well, and although we stayed here for one night, we did not use her cafe for breakfast, since we had learned that the beverages were a bit over-priced. Again, we are not sure whether that is in fact the case, but we did notice that there was no menu or price list anywhere. While we travel we have a general rule that if the prices are not listed, we tend to avoid the establishment.
Hotel Casa Della Torre – Alba, Italy
Hotel Casa Della Torre – Alba, Italy
The room was spacious enough, quiet and comfortable for the most part. The bed was very hard, so if you prefer that kind of mattress firmness, this place might be for you.
Restaurants
Conterosso
For lunch we ate at Conterosso and chose two of the local dishes. Patti had the Agnolotti with truffles and I had the veal with a barolo wine sauce, both were excellent dishes.
Conterosso – Alba, Italy
Caprese salad – Conterosso – Alba, Italy
Agnolotti with black truffles – Conterosso – Alba, Italy
Veal in Barolo sauce with potatoes – Conterosso – Alba, Italy
Gusto Madre
A contemporary dining place that makes excellent pizza. Located in Piazza Michele Ferrero, it is just on the edge of town.
Gusto Madre – Alba, Italy
Since Patti was not feeling well, I ate alone and just ordered a simple Pizza Margherita which was drizzled with a pesto, it was actually quite good.
Another must see place in Zermatt is Gornergrat. You can reach this promontory by using the Gornergrat train, a mountain rack railway, which ascends the mountain passed Riffelalp and Riffelberg.
There are several stops besides these two along the way that one may decide to leave the train and just walk or hike. However, unlike Sunnegga and Blauherd, the terrain here is a bit more unforgiving and vertical. Also, the weather on top of the mountains can be cold and unpredictable, so bring something warm and something waterproof, especially if you are hiking.
Looking towards Dent Blanche – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Gornergrat station – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Looking toward Zermatt and Mattertal – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Chapelle du Gornergrat – Bernhard von Aosta – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Erick at Riffelberg – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Gornergrat Glacier
The height of the trip is the summit and the Gornergrat Glacier. Aside from this, this isn’t much to see, especially in marginal weather when the Matterhorn is obscured.
Panorama of Gorner Glacier – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Riffelberg
On the way down we stopped at Riffelberg, with the hopes of getting some hiking in down to Riffelalp. However, the weather was not looking very good and we were still suffering from our colds, so we decided against it.
View from Riffelberg – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Wanderwege – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Tall Peaks across the valley Matter – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Here are some short videos that were taken of our trip.
Restaurants
We did not eat at the restaurant on the summit, but rather waited until we were back in Zermatt. We left around ten in the morning and were already back a little after noon.
China Garden
Any one seeking good Chinese food at very reasonable prices has to visit the China Garden.
China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti at China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
They have all the dishes which are prepared with continental ingredients and taste delicious. For those that prefer their lunches uncomplicated, here you can definitely find some vegetarian or simple to order.
Spring roll – China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
Vegetable rice with vegetable mix – China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
And of course, after lunch the day would not be complete this week without the customary rain storm. Actually, this was just a gentle shower, later in the day we had a very severe thunderstorm. But we were inside the hotel by then and did not care. Again, the weather can be unpredictable here, so be prepared and check the forecast, they are for the most part reliable.
Tomorrow it’s on to Matterhorn Glacier, so we will be taking the Matterhorn Glacier Express.
This week we traveled by train from Turin to Zermatt, Switzerland in the hopes of enjoying the weather and the clean air. There is plenty of clean air, but the weather has remained extremely variable, with it almost always raining in the afternoons.
Zermatt train station – Zermatt, Switzerland
After we got off the EuroCity train in Visp we had to take the local train from there to Zermatt. These trains are run by the canton and are especially equipped to ascend to the 5200ft elevation we needed to ascend in order to get to our destination.
Unfortunately, our first attempt failed and the train that we were on broke down at its first stop. We had to wait approximately a half an hour before another arrived to complete our journey.
Zermatt
Zermatt is considered a town by the local government and with a constant population of around five thousands, that would seem to be about correct. However, the bulk of the people that you find here are tourists. And as one would expect, the tourist population swells during the weekends as local Swiss and others from neighboring regions come to enjoy the alpine air.
Pfarrerkirche and Zermatterhof – Zermatt, Switzerland
Zermatterhof – Zermatt, Switzerland
Looking toward the Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Looking down the Mattertal – Zermatt, Switzerland
Bahnhofstrasse, the main street – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn shrouded in clouds – Zermatt, Switzerland
The town is divided by a river with is fed by the many glaciers that surround the town. However, the flow of this river is controlled by a dam and there are signs that warn those who want to sun themselves on the rocks along its banks, that water can be unexpectedly released and you can be swept down river. We actually witnessed the water level rise once due to the rain we had been receiving.
Gomerabach – Zermatt, Switzerland
Uferweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Uferweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Area above Zermatt along the river – Zermatt, Switzerland
Old Zermatt
There are examples in the upper parts of Zermatt, of the original buildings that were used by the early residents. Some are still in use today. However, with the increased land prices, most have sold out and moved up valley to get away from the tourism gentrification.
Triftbachtal – Zermatt, Switzerland
Triftbachtal – Zermatt, Switzerland
Scenery on one of our walks – Zermatt, Switzerland
Scenery on one of our walks – Zermatt, Switzerland
Original buildings of Zermatt – Zermatt, Switzerland
Older original buildings of Zermatt – Zermatt, Switzerland
The Tradition Julen
Our hotel is the four star The Tradition Julen hotel. It is one of the more pricier hotels in the area but the rooms are very cozy and comfortable. In fact, it is one of the few four star hotels that I have not had the displeasure of asking for something that should be already included in the room! The service is first rate and so far we are having a great stay. It is also close to the center of town, but kind of out of the way too, so you won’t get a lot of tourist walking by the hotel, which makes for a quieter stay.
Our room – Hotel Tradition Julen – Zermatt, Switzerland
Our room – Hotel Tradition Julen – Zermatt, Switzerland
Restaurants
During our week long stay here, we ate at an assortment of restaurants. The area does have its traditional food and our hotel actually houses a traditional Valais Stube which serves food like this, mainly raclette, beef fondues and other curiosities.
Stadel Restaurant
The first restaurant we stopped at that had just opened for the summer months. The service and food were good, but I have to knock them a bit for not having any sauerkraut – it is on the menu. It would have paired well with the Water Buffalo Bratwurst I had ordered and enjoyed.
Water Buffalo Gulash – Stadel Restaurant – Zermatt, Switzerland
Water Buffalo Bratwurst with potatoes – Stadel Restaurant – Zermatt, Switzerland
Hotel Julen Restaurant
Our hotel has its own restaurant that serves cosmopolitan cuisine. Due to weather complications, we were forced to stay in and enjoy what it had to offer one evening and were not disappointed. We thought the food was very good and the prices fair.
Cauliflower soup – Hotel Julen Restaurant – Zermatt, Switzerland
Traditional Wiener Schnitzel with french fried – Hotel Julen Restaurant – Zermatt, Switzerland
Our initial feel for the town is good, it has excellent services and plenty of restaurants and bars. Some of the food can be pricey, but if you stick to the traditional German fare, the prices seem more reasonable. The people are very friendly and speak multiple language, especially English, so getting around should not be an issue.
So we are still here and our next plans included hiking and using the amazing funicular, cog railway and gondola system. I will make additional entries for those once we have completed and recuperated from them a bit. Until then, stay tuned.
