After a dismal start and a break in the weather, we were able to explore the city of Porto a bit more rigorously. There are probably only a handful of streets that do not go up or down, so have your trekking legs prepared.
Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal
São Bento Train Station
The inner city train station, and perhaps the original Porto Central Station, is the São Bento Train Station. Known for its tiled waiting hall, it is known now more for its artwork than for its use as a primary station; Campahnã having eclipsed it as the main train station now. Unfortunately, it is beset by a very large public works project outside at the moment, so access is through side entrances for the most part.
Sao Bento Train Station – Entry Hall – Porto, Portugal
Sao Bento Train Station – Entry Hall – Porto, Portugal
Sao Bento Train Station – Tracks – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira
A scenic spot on the River Duoro in the center of the old city is the Praça da Ribeira. It has several pieces of art to enjoy and the Cube Fountain, which is surrounded by a myriad of restaurants and cafe tents. It is along the Cias de Ribeira or promenade where you can enjoy a nice walk, listen to music or just enjoy the river.
Praça da Ribeira – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira – Cube Fountain – Porto, Portugal
Luís I Bridge
Between the Praça da Ribeira, RibeiraDoPorto and the other side of the river, or Vila Nova de Gaia, is the Luís I Bridge, which was originally proposed by Gustave Eiffel, even though he did not win the competition to build it.
Praça da Ribeira – Luis I Bridge – Porto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge – Douro River Upstream – Porto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge – Vila Nova de Gaia – Porto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge – View of Praça da Ribeira – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira – Luis I Bridge – Porto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia
On the other side of the river is the area or civil parish of Vila Nova de Gaia. This prefecture or parish you can find many of the great port wine houses, such as Sandeman, Kopke and Warres to name a few. It also has a very nice river side promenade that can be enjoyed on a nice sunny day.
Vila Nova de Gaia – Praça da Ribeira – Porto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia – Sandeman Port – Porto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal
Churches
Our visit here continues with a few other churches, which we were unable to see the previous day.
Church Of Saint Anthony
A regular church by any measure, the church of St. Anthony does have a remarkable gilded altar, which would be the prize of any structure.
Church of Saint Anthony – Outside – Porto, Portugal
Church of Saint Anthony – Nave and Altar – Porto, Portugal
Church of Saint Anthony – Altar – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church
Best known for its Portuguese tiled exterior, the Carmo Church sits on top of the hill next to the Lion Fountain and its park. The tiling on the outside is unfortunately covered with a gauze, no doubt to protect the surface of the tiles from prolonged exposure to the elements, so taking photographs at a distance is probably best.
Tickets For Two – Carmo Church – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Entrance with Church of the Carmelitas on the left – Porto, Portugal
The interior is nice and in the baroque style of churches. Its other claim to fame are the side altars depicting Christ in one form of tribulation or another.
Carmo Church – Nave from above – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Organ – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Nave and Altar – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Nave and Organ from above – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Side Altar – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Side Altar – Porto, Portugal
The Hidden House
Between the Carmo Church and the Church of the Carmelites is the Hidden House. A four story structure built between the two to prevent the appearance of impropriety, though it has had other uses throughout its 250 years.
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
The Museum
The museum of the Carmo Church houses the typical treasure and other important items used and passed down by the church through the years. There are some things of note, like the collection of hands, as well as other peculiar things that have to be seen to believe.
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Restaurants and Cafes
The restaurants and cafes in Porto come in clusters, perhaps due to it being a tourist hot spot. They seem to line most of the more important streets and more heavily trafficked areas.
Casa Deolinda
A good spot for lunch would be the Casa Deolinda right within the Praça da Ribeira. We actually felt more compelled to eat here only due to the weather, but we were not disappointed. The food was good and the service was above what we had experienced in other places. The prices were not too bad either, considering its location.
Praça da Ribeira – Restaurant Deolinda – Porto, Portugal
Restaurant Deolinda – Vegetable Soup with Tuna Salad – Porto, Portugal
Restaurant Deolinda – Vegetable Soup with Cod Fish Fritters and Hot Chocolate – Porto, Portugal
The weather too, did not disappoint.
Fabrica da Nata Cafe
Known for its Portuguese Nata, or Pastel de Nata, are a custard cream delight found at Fabrica da Nata. There is a special little room within the cafe where they prepare these treats inside a glass enclosure. The cappuccino in Portugal is bit different from its Italian parent, it has more milk and is usually not as strong.
Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Making Pastries – Porto, Portugal
Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Inside – Porto, Portugal
Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Breakfast – Porto, Portugal
Popina Restaurant
On the smaller scale, if you are looking for an authentic Portuguese adventure in cuisine, look no further than Popina. They have classic dishes here that are served like appetizers and are meant to be shared, so think family-style in a way. You select several items from the menu, all of which are brought out when they are ready, and them divide them accordingly. The order in which they are brought out though can appear a bit confused and disorderly, but bear with the process and you should not be disappointed.
Wanting to visit Porto, after hearing such good things about the city from family and friends, we decided to book a trip during the off season, March in fact. Our Tickets For Two were of course electronic, so no photographs of them, sorry.
Getting There
From Turin there are two direct flights twice weekly to Porto, Portugal with RyanAir, which is also a designated hub of this carrier. Two weeks ago we booked our stays and flights, well knowing the weather during this time of year is very undependable, it did not disappoint.
Turin Airport – Gate 20, Bound for Porto – Porto, Portugal
Turin Airport – The Nose Of Our Plane – Porto, Portugal
The flight was a little over two hours and left in the evening, in fact all the flights on Mondays and Fridays between these two cities are evening flights. We left around 6:30PM and arrived a little after 9:00PM, but it is actually 8:00PM local time, since you gain an hour.
RyanAir Flight – Coming Into The City – Porto, Portugal
Our arrival was bumpy and wet, so after we arrived, Patti and I decided to take a taxi instead of the metro. It was a good decision, first it only cost us thirty Euros and second, it was pouring out; so getting door to door service was very helpful.
Carris Hotel Ribiera
The Carris Hotel Ribiera in Porto is no doubt a collection of a few building that have been extensively renovated. It is close to the water and midway down the river embankment, so no matter which was you walk there will be a hill.
The accommodations are modern enough, though there are a few oddities and some unpleasant things, for one the bed in the room was very hard. Another unfortunate oversight, the safe provided in the room is not bolted to the wall or closet, so anyone can easily just pick it up with all of your possessions and leave the room; we therefore chose not to use it.
Porto – The City
The city of Porto, or Oporto, may pose difficulties for some. For one it essentially lays on the very steep banks of the River Douro, which has its source deep in central Spain, and therefore is very hilly.
The River Douro – Ribeira Square – Porto, Portugal
Street Car or Tram – Porto, Portugal
The Streets Under Rain – Porto, Portugal
The Streets Under Rain – Porto, Portugal
The city is known for its buildings having tiled facades, as well as many of its famous buildings, like the Sao Bento train station and its churches and cathedral.
Typical Street – Porto, Portugal
Churches and Cathedrals
There are many churches and cathedrals in the city, some are free to enter, others have been repurposed and charge a fee.
Parish Church of St. Nicholas
The Parish Church of Saint Nicholas was the first church we visited. We were stuck by its tiled exterior. The interior has an amazing golden altar with a painting of a scene after the crucifixion.
Parish Church of St. Nicholas – Entrance – Porto, Portugal
Parish Church of St. Nicholas – Altar and Inside – Porto, Portugal
Church of Saint Francis
The Church of Saint Francis is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful churches we have been lucky enough to visit. Almost the entire interior is decorated with carved wooden and gilded ornamentation depicting all different scenes from Catholicism.
Church Of Saint Francis – Entrance – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Its Gilded Wooden Interior – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Its Gilded Wooden Interior – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Its Gilded Wooden Interior – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – A Gilded Wooden Tree With Figures – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Side Chapel – Porto, Portugal
The Church Museum
The museum houses an impressive collection of church artifacts and treasures, it is probably worth the reasonable cost of entry alone.
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Religious Sculpture Room – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Religious Sculpture Room – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Religious Sculpture Room, Old 17th Century Wooden and Iron Strongbox – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Treasury Room – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Treasury Room – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Old Tapestry – Porto, Portugal
The Crypt
One of the more extensive crypts we have seen. It also has a peculiar floor that has removable panels, no doubt for easy access to the remains in place in each sarcophagus.
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt Bone House – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral
Ostensibly the Porto Cathedral is crowning jewel of the church in the city, however we did not find it as interesting as St. Francis. There are several self-guided tours to chose from, including the Bishop’s quarters which we decided against. However, the rest of the grounds are interesting, if only for the tile work, or Azulejo, for which the cathedral and most of the city is so keenly known.
Porto Cathedral – Statue of Vimara Peres – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Patti in front of the Delft Tiling – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Courtyard – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Portico – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Courtyard – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Delft Tiling – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Delft Tiling – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Right Apse – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Nave and Altar – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Rose Window – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Left Apse – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Left Apse, Side Chapel – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Side Chapel – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Bronze and Baptismal Font – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Bells – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Main Bell – Porto, Portugal
Clerigos Church
Though we did not go in, there is a fee to enter, we enjoyed the church from the street. It wasn’t really clear from our research that it was particularly known for anything, so we decided to skip this church.
Clerigos Church – Porto, Portugal
Torre Dos Clerigos
Likewise, the clock tower associated with it looks impressive from the street and probably has some interesting points inside, however, again we chose not to indulge on paying for entry, since we had no inclination for climbing the stairs to the top, we had already seen an overview of the city from other vantage points.
Clerigos Church Clock Tower – Porto, Portugal
Restaurants and Cafes
Most restaurants and cafes in Porto are small, actually very small, and you will be lucky to find a place to sit down if you are not lucky or willing to wait. For dinner it is always best to make a reservation, almost all restaurants take and honor them, though some may restrict the amount of time you may keep you table.
Forno Velho
This restaurant is part of the Carris Hotel Ribiera in Porto and serves a limited, but very good selection of food from their menu. We ate here because it was late, around 9:30PM and raining outside. Though they do get a premium price for their entrees, the food was very good and well prepared, and we received a fifteen percent discount on our bill.
Hotel Carris Porto-Ribeira, Forno Velho Restaurant – Red Mushroom Rissotto – Porto, Portugal
Hotel Carris Porto-Ribeira, Forno Velho Restaurant – Veal Tataki with apple and peppercorns, potatoes with speck – Porto, Portugal
Rocinha Cafe
On our first morning in Porto we ate at the Rocinha Cafe, which lies around the corner on the same block as our hotel. It offered an English Breakfast for ten Euros each, and we were able to substitute our cappuccinos as our beverage of choice, so our total bill was twenty Euros.
Rocinha Cafe – English Breakfast – Porto, Portugal
A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant
For lunch we ate at A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant. This establishment is obviously owned by an owner of a vineyard or larger farm in the area, since they have a particular brand of wine. Expect good food with a paced, if not slow service, since there is only one server and one cook. Oh, and if they bring out hot sauce that has an eye-dropper in it, it most definitely serious stuff, so administer appropriately on your dish.
A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant – Menu – Porto, Portugal
A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant – Kale and Potato Soup with Wine – Porto, Portugal
A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant – Bifana Portugese Sandwich Traditional – Porto, Portugal
A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant – Bifana Portugese Sandwich Traditional, Hot Sauce in an Eye Dropper – Porto, Portugal
Incontro Bistro
If you are looking for a small traditional Italian dinner look no further than Incontro Bistro, it is essentially a hole in the wall with a kitchen and seven tables. We sat next to the kitchen and had a wonderful time enjoying the cacophony and smells. The only one thing to point would be they only serve macaroni pasta, no long pasta, so you have to choose from one of those.
Incontro Bistrot – Kitchen – Porto, Portugal
Incontro Bistrot – Caprese for Two – Porto, Portugal
Incontro Bistrot – Fusilli with Tomatoes and Basil, Penne with Ragú – Porto, Portugal
Incontro Bistrot – Panna Cota with Berries – Porto, Portugal
What follows are some final thoughts on our stay in Lecce. Though we found the city intriguing, having an interesting history, some good food and enough sights to see to keep you busy, we don’t feel comfortable commending it for more than a few days at best. For the most part, the Città Vecchia is very quiet and doesn’t open until after noon. Even with the myriad number of churches, there are practically no other monuments, fountains or public places to enjoy. Other than that, there are not many connecting little towns in the area to plan day trips around.
Museums
To wrap up our visit to Lecce, we still had one museum left on our church ticket to see, as well as the private museum of Museo Faggiano. So on Monday we planned visiting them, eating lunch and then having a light afternoon.
Museo Faggiano
A private museum, the Museo Faggiano is located on Via Ascanio Grandi, 56/58, not far from our Bed and Breakfast. The host has a written tour guide in most European languages and everything is numbered, so it is not a difficult self-guided tour.
Museo Faggiano – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Tickets For Two – Lecce, Italy
The museum was created by mistake in 2001 when Luciano Faggiano and his sons were digging to fix a plumbing issue. What they found made front page news, even in the United States. While digging out certain areas they discovered artifacts and burial places and had to stop and inform the proper authorities.
Museo Faggiano – NYT Article on archaeological discovery – Lecce, Italy
Luckily, with the proper guidance and help, they were able to turn it into the museum you see today, thanks to the efforts of the Archaeological Superintendence of Taranto and the Idume Cultural Association. The archaeological collection has artifacts starting in the fifth century BCE and spans the Roman, Middle Ages and the Renaissance.
Museo Faggiano – Old Water Drain System for Cistern – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Dug as an Escape Tunnel – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Tank and Cistern Pulley – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Entrance Sign – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Old 17th Century Tile and other artifacts – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Very Cramped – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – 11th century Grain Silo – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Cistern and Well – Lecce, Italy
From the eleventh until the thirteenth century the place was a Templar house and used for purposes of their cause. After that, it was converted into a convent in the early seventeenth century for the Franciscan Nuns of Saint Claire.
Museo Faggiano – Convent Rooms – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Convent Rooms – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Convent Rooms – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Convent Rooms – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Convent Rooms – Lecce, Italy
There are places along the tour, especially when descending where the well is and a few other spots, where it is rather cramped and the stairwell a bit claustrophobic, so take care.
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Room – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Another Escape Route – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Other Holes and Routes – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Escape route probably connected with Sant’Oronzo Square – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Patti in Underground Room with Firepit – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – An Escape Passage and old foundation hole – Lecce, Italy
There is an overlook observatory, but frankly there is not much to see from that perch. It was probably used by the Templars as a lookout or alternative escape route since it appears to be attached to many of the surrounding roofs in the area.
Museo Faggiano – Observation Turret – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Observation Turret – Lecce, Italy
Story Of The Five Cavers
Apparently another archaeological dig is also documented in one of the rooms in the museum. It has to do with five cavers who discovered neolithic archaeological artifacts, handprints and pictograms in caves where they were spelunking around Otranto, Italy.
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Room – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Room, La Grotta dei Cervi – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Diorama, Handprint Room, La Grotta dei Cervi, Otranto – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Diorama, Deer Room, La Grotta dei Cervi, Otranto – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Diorama, Burial Room, La Grotta dei Cervi, Otranto – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Diorama, Stalagmite Room, La Grotta dei Cervi, Otranto – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano
The Museo Sigismondo Castromediano is a large and modern museum south of the old city on Viale Gallipoli. It houses ancient archaeological artifacts which are arranged in special themes.
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Seascape Theme – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Land Theme – Ancient Neolithic Artifacts – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Living Theme – Ancient Burial Artifacts – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Living Theme – Ancient Burial Artifacts – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Living Theme – Ancient Burial Artifacts – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Living Theme – Ancient Burial Stones – Lecce, Italy
Churches
We were told there was an interesting church to see in the new section of the city, so we headed over there to see both it and the water fountain not far from it.
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio
The Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio, or Sanctuary of Saint Anthony in Fulgenzio is located the newer part of Lecce. It is worth a visit because of the beautiful frescos that adorn its ceilings.
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Exterior Facade and Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Altar and Apse from Nave – Lecce, Italy
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Altar, Crossing and Apse – Lecce, Italy
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Left Transept – Lecce, Italy
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Right Transept – Lecce, Italy
Restaurants
There are a few more restaurants that we visited while in Lecce. Of note are the ones below and of singular distinction is the Chinese Restaurant which we both found a surprise, not only for the extensive menu, but also for the quality of its foods.
Gusto Liberrima
It can be difficult on the weekends, especially Sunday, to find a place to eat that you do not need reservations. Gusto Liberrima located on Corte dei Cicala, 12, appears to be large enough to accommodate more people and might have openings when others do not. We met our new found friends Roland and Amanda at another place we tried to get into, only to be denied and then we tried Gusto Liberrima.
It has Cucina Tipica for the Puglia and other items on the menu, so one should be able to find something to their taste. Roland ordered the Finocchio Arrosto which we tried and it was amazing. It was roasted fennel with parmesan cream, pistachio and almonds crumbled with fresh truffle, very tasty.
Patti and I both had the Velutata di Zucca or the pumpkin soup with gorgonzola, rosemary oil, basil cream, croutons, it was delicious. Patti ordered the Insalata Mediterranea which is made with rocket, carrots, tuna fillet, leccine olives, chicory, friscous, mustard mayonnaise, caramelized red onion and I ordered the Sagne Ritorte, which is just homemade pasta in a ragù, along with an Insalata Mista.
Ristorante Gusto Liberrima – Vellutata di Zucca – Lecce, Italy
Along the Viale dell’Università is the Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du. This restaurant has a modern interior and a lengthy menu offering items perhaps not very common. So if you looking for a change of cuisine from the usual Tipica Cucina, then this place may be the answer. Unfortunately at the time of this writing I could not find a website for them.
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Inside – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Placemat – Lecce, Italy
The Noodle and Vegetable Soup is very good and can be highly recommended. Other dishes, including the Vegetable Rice Saltate and Cabbage with garlic and oil are also excellent choices.
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Soup with Noodles, Cabbage and Scallions – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Noodle Soup and Vegetable Fried Rice with Shrimp – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Soup with Noodles, Cabbage and Scallions, Vegetable Fried Rice – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Pollo Piccante – Chopped Chicken with Red Pepper, Ginger, Onion and Black Pepper – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Chinese Cabbage in Garlic and Oil – Lecce, Italy
For our second time around we ordered the same soup and rice but changed our main dishes to Eggplant with Chopped Meat and Scallions, and Sweet and Sour Pork with Green Peppers.
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Eggplant, Chopped Meat and Scallions – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Sweet and Sour Port with Green Peppers, Pineapple in Duck Sauce, White Rice and Fried Rice with Vegetables – Lecce, Italy
Though some people choose to ignore basilicas, cathedrals and churches for whatever reason, Lecce is home to more than just a few. It seems that with almost every bend in the street, there is another one waiting to be entered by the faithful or curious. The truth probably is, that most visitors are just that, visitors and tourists.
Lecce’s Basilicas, Cathedrals And Churches
The Basilica di Santa Croce was the first basilica or church we visited, only because that is where we purchased our tickets. Yes, the most significant basilicas and churches in Lecce have a fee, 10€ per person, which gives you two weeks of access to all the places listed on the ticket. As of this writing, the following were accessible[1]please note: the names may appear slightly different or abbreviated on your ticket:
Basilica di Santa Croce
Il Duomo – Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant’Oronzo
Cripta della Cattedrale
Chiesa di San Matteo
Chiesa di Santa Chiara
Basilica di Santa Croce
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano
Biblioteca Bernardini – Convitto Palmieri
Chiostro Antico Seminario – Palazzo del Seminario
Basilica di Santa Croce
The Basilica di Santa Croce is located on via Umberto I and was the first one church on the list that we visited, only because that is where we purchased our tickets.
Basilica di Santa Croce – Outside – Lecce, Italy
Basilica di Santa Croce – Right Aisle – Lecce, Italy
Basilica di Santa Croce – Ceiling – Lecce, Italy
Basilica di Santa Croce – The Crossing and Ceiling – Lecce, Italy
Basilica di Santa Croce – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Basilica di Santa Croce – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Basilica di Santa Croce – Nave and Altar – Lecce, Italy
Basilica di Santa Croce – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Il Duomo – Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant’Oronzo
The Duomo in Lecce is also referred to as the Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant’Oronzo, or the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption and Saint Orontius, or simple the Lecce Cathedral, and is laid out like a proper Latin cathedral.
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – From Piazza Il Duomo – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Bell Tower – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Main Entrance and Facade – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Side Entrance – Lecce, Italy
The impressive nave, crossing and transepts are in the Baroque style and do not resemble other more impressive Gothic Cathedrals you will find in Europe, nonetheless there are things to see!
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Main Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Nave – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Right Aisle – Lecce, Italy
There a multiple radiating chapels, altar and two rather elegant transepts that one should admire for some time.
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Andrew the Apostle (1687), Right Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Charles Borromeo, Right Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Radiating Chapel or Altar, Right Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Giusto (1656), Right Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Our Lady of Sorrows, Right Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – John the Baptist (1682), Left Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Radiating Chapel or Altar, Left Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Side Entrance, Left Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – The martyrdom of Saint Giusto (1674), Left Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Anthony of Padua (also from 1674), Left Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Orontius of Lecce (1671), Right Transept Altar – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – The Immaculate Conception (1689), Left Transept Altar – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – The Crucifixion of Jesus and the Blessed Sacrament (1780), Left Transept – Lecce, Italy
The ceiling is also a marvel. Built from wood, it is intricately woven into a grand geometric pattern for anyone to enjoy.
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Apse and Crossing Ceiling – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Nave Ceiling and Organ – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Nave Ceiling by Crossing – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Ceiling – Lecce, Italy
Cripta della Cattedrale
The Cripta della Cattedrale, or the Crypt of the Cathedral, was restored in 2017 to its present condition. However, archaeological activities are still ongoing and work appears in some areas to have only started. The rest of the crypt, with the exception of a few painting, appears rather sterile.
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Patti entering the Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Closed Exit, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Entry into Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Sarcophagus, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Vaulted Ceiling and Altar, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Side Altar, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Side Altar, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Side Altar, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Restored in 2017, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Archaeological Artifacts from the Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Archaeological Site, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Archaeological Site, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Matteo
The Chiesa di San Matteo, or Church of Saint Matthew, is small and very ornate and well decorated inside for its size. The marble was unquestionably carved by master craftsmen on top of their game.
Chiesa di San Matteo – Outside or Facade – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Matteo – Outside or Facade – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Matteo – Left Wall along the Nave – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Matteo – Right Wall along the Nave – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Matteo – Ambo or Pulpit – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Matteo – Nave – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Matteo – Side or Radiating Chapel – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara
The Chiesa di Santa Chiara , or Church of Saint Claire, is a beautiful Baroque church in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II in Lecce. It has some marvelous side altars honoring some of the important saints from the area.
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Outside and Facade – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Ceiling – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra
The Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra, or Sacred Art Museum, has a unique collection of religious artifacts of Catholic origins from the area.
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Main Hall – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Sacred Paintings and Art – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Sacred Paintings and Art – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Sacred Paintings and Art – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Sacred Paintings and Art – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Sacred Paintings and Art – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Saint Oronzo – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Other Sacred Works – Lecce, Italy
Other Basilicas, Cathedrals And Churches
There are a number of other cathedrals and churches worth your attention. Most map applications and a good map from a hotel, B&B or rental may have them marked. As of this writing, none of these cathedrals or churches required any entry fee or donation.
Basilica Del Rosario E Di San Giovanni Battista
The Basilica Del Rosario E Di San Giovanni Battista, or the Basilica of the Rosary and of Saint John the Baptist, was under restoration when we visited. The outside appears to be falling the street and they have erected scaffolding to protect the public. Inside, the entire roof trusses under the crossing were under reconstruction. Aside from that, the inside was rather bare and actually looked like a construction site, so aside from the alters which are still in place, there is not must else to see.
Basilica del Rosario e di San Giovanni Battista – Outside and Facade – Lecce, Italy
Basilica del Rosario e di San Giovanni Battista – Inside with bare Cupola, Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia
Located directly across from the Roman amphitheater on via Ernesto Alvino and near the Castello Carlo V di Lecce (Castle Charles of Lecce) , is another excellent choice to visit.
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Outside – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Nave and Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Religious Painting in Foyer – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Intricate Ceiling – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Carving on Wood – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Carving on Wood – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa Del Gesu Del Buon Consiglio
Another church that you may enter for no fee is the Chiesa Del Gesu Del Buon Consiglio which is on the Strada Romana, or the Roman street, referred to today as Via Francesco Rubichi. The ornate altar and backdrop of the Apse is worth a stop. This along with the amazing wooden ceiling, these two things are demand some consideration and adoration.
Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Outside – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – A Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Side Altar of Mary with Baby Jesus – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Nave Showing Renovations – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Ceiling – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Provvidenza O Delle Alcantoarine
The Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Provvidenza o Delle Alcantoarine, or the Church of Saint Mary of Providence or the Alcantoarine has a beautiful altar and wonderful Morena Glass chandelier along with a very simple interior.
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Provvidenza o Delle Alcantoarine – Outside – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Provvidenza o Delle Alcantoarine – Nave and Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Porta O Di San Luigi Gonzaga
The Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Porta O Di San Luigi Gonzaga, or the Church of Saint Mary of the Gate or of San Louis Gonzaga is another free church that you can stop in and admire very near to the Porta Napoli. Simple for its layout, its architecture is developed around a dome, rather than the traditional church layout.
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Porta o di San Luigi Gonzaga – Outside – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Porta o di San Luigi Gonzaga – Inside – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Niccolo dei Greci
Unable to enter, we were only able to take a photograph of the facade or outside of the church.
Chiesa di San Niccolo dei Greci – Outside – Lecce, Italy
Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo
The small chapel of Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo is located very near to the Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra, or Sacred Art Museum; in fact, it right at the end of that tour.
Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo – Lecce, Italy
Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo – Altar – Lecce, Italy
The second largest city in Apulia is called Lecce and is located on the Salentine Peninsula of Italy. It is rich in Baroque architecture, most of which is in the form of Lecce limestone and is often referred to as the Florence of the South. It one of the oldest settlements in southern Italy, with activity dating back to neolithic times.
Getting There
From Brindisis, or most other larger towns and cities on the east coast of Mezzogiorno, the FrecciaArgento is perhaps to quickest way to arrive. From Brindisi it is a short twenty three minute ride, a bit longer on the regional trains.
Lecce Train Station – Lecce, Italy
The City
Lecce is a typical ancient city which was at one time circumscribed with a protective wall with three main gates. The streets in the old Città Vecchia, or old history city, are narrow and mostly paved with stones.
Typical city street – Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Castromediano – Lecce, Italy
Narrow carless streets – Lecce, Italy
Old Roman columned wall – Lecce, Italy
The government here must be very careful of the city center, since it appears to have mitigated much of the traffic you would normally find in other similar cities of this size, making pedestrian traffic all that more enjoyable.
Palazzo Lecciso – Lecce, Italy
Interesting balcony supports – Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Castromediano – Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Di Giustizia – Lecce, Italy
Ports, Gates, Columns And Castles
There are numerous ports, gates, columns and obelisks in Lecce. These are spread out all of the city and are well labeled on most maps. The Triumphal Arch, or Porta Napoli, is the largest and one of the three gates to enter the Città Vecchia.
Porta di Napoli – Front – Lecce, Italy
Porta di Napoli – Back – Lecce, Italy
Porta di Napoli – Back – Lecce, Italy
Porta di Napoli – Back – Lecce, Italy
There is also the Porta San Biagio and a smaller one called the Arco di Prato, or Arch of Prato, which is somewhat hidden away within the narrow city streets.
Porta San Biagio – Lecce, Italy
The Arch of Prato – Lecce, Italy
Arch of Prato – Lecce, Italy
The Obelisk of Terra d’Otranto can be seen close to the Porta Napoli and is rather tall. It was erected in 1822 in honor of one of the rulers of the Two Sicilies. On the other side of town one can find the War Memorial for soldiers lost in war.
Porta di Napoli – Obelisco di Terra d’Otranto – Lecce, Italy
War Memorial – Lecce, Italy
In the Piazza Saint Oronzo you will find the Colonna di Sant’Oronzo, or the Column of Saint Oronzo. It is a tall pedestal with Saint Oronzo on top. The column itself was assembled from pieces of the one that fell apart in Brindisi in the mid sixteenth century, its twin can be found near the port of that city.
Column of Saint Oronzo – Lecce, Italy
The Castello de Carlo V, or Castle of Charles V sits on the eastern edge of the historic city and below the Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens. It is a large structure and tours are offered, all of which are guided, so you cannot tour the grounds unaccompanied. A short walk from there you will the public park or gardens, which is always a good stop to rest your feet after a few hours of walking.
Castello Carlo V di Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Castello Carlo V di Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens – Lecce, Italy
Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens – Fountain – Lecce, Italy
Roman Ruins
Lecce has in its old historic city not one, but two Roman amphitheaters. Unfortunately for us, both were being restored while we visited and photography was very difficult in both cases.
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater, 2nd Century – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater, 2nd Century – Lecce, Italy
Where We Stayed
For the second time on this trip we have booked a Bed and Breakfast. I still cannot say I am fan, but there are times when alternatives to hotels may make a better fit. However, we only commit to such alternatives directly and after thorough research.
L’Orangerie d’Epoque
We stayed at a Bed and Breakfast called L’Orangerie d’Epoque on Viale Francesco Lo Re near the Porta San Biagio. A rather large building with a central portico that appears to have one owner.
L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Entryway and Portico – Lecce, Italy
Our room was on the ground floor with its own entrance to the portico. The entryway has a beautiful mosaic tiled floor, reminiscent of ancient Rome or Pompeii.
L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Entrance Mosaic and Door – Lecce, Italy
The room was spacious, with a fireplace and split up into almost four equal parts. There was a large dining area by the entrance that flowed into a living room with several couches.
This small restaurant has good food and wine at fairly reasonable prices. We actually went there late for lunch, around 14:40 and they still took our order and served us.
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
The service was very good and the menu had a decent choice of both local cuisine and other more general Italian items to chose.
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Front of the Building – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Entrance, Cassa and Wines – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Wines – Lecce, Italy
I ordered the Eggplant Polpette in Ragu Sauce with Ricotta Cheese, an Insalata Mista (mixed salad) and the Orecchiette with re-milled Semolina with Scottona Red Ragu and Patti ordered the Ciceri and Tria Pasta and shared my Polpette. All the dishes were very good. The wine was Negroamaro from the region and it was very good, served by the glass. The desserts you can see below and the espresso was also very good, not bitter at all.
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Eggplant Polpette in Ragu Sauce with Ricotta Cheese – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Insalata Mista – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Ciceri and Tria Pasta – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Orecchiette with re-milled Semolina with Scottona Red Ragu – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Salted Pistachio Semifreddo with Chocolate Crunchy, Martucci Spumone Hazelnut Chocolate – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Espresso and Molinari Sambuca – Lecce, Italy
Miro Wine And Lounge
We stopped here for a drink and decided on a quick bite to eat, since we were both getting hungry and it was only a little passed eleven. We were actually surprised they were serving lunch.
Miro Wine and Lounge – Patti outside waiting for soup – Lecce, Italy
Miro Wine and Lounge – Erick outside waiting for soup with a glass of red – Lecce, Italy
While we waited, I ordered a glass of Negroamaro from Puglia, a very nice wine that reminds me of Barbera. They had a nice bean and cereal soup on the menu that Patti and I decided to try and it was magnificent.
Miro Wine and Lounge – Bean and Cereal soup with Croutons – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo
The restaurant Tranquillo is a more modern restaurant with two locations in Lecce, we chose the one located at Piazza Sant’Oronzo. The service and food were very good.
Tranquillo – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Menu – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Inside – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Inside – Lecce, Italy
We dined late again at around 14:30, opting for a larger lunch and skipping dinner. We find this preferrable to eating again late in the evening and going to bed with a full stomach, something that we find does not lend itself to a good night sleep as we get older. I ordered the Apulian Bombette with Cheese on greens with a side order of Potato al Forno and Cicorie (Chickory), and Patti ordered the Cicorie on Pureed Fava Beans.
Tranquillo – Chicory side and Chicory on Pureed Fava Beans – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Potatoes al Forno, Ricetta Bombette with cheese and a glass of red wine – Lecce, Italy
If it is raining out and there is not much else to do, then a trip to Brindisi could be the cure for your rainy day. Though not much to see, nor much to look at, Brindisi does offer a few points of interest. We mainly used it for a short respite during our eighteen day visit to Mezzogiorno.
Getting To Brindisi
From Bari we reserved seats on the FrecciaArgento[1]FrecciaArgento, or TrennItalia’s Silver Arrow service, as opposed to the FrecciaRosso, or Red Arrow service in other areas which only takes a hour. There are other regional offerings, however they usually take longer but are less expensive, so there are options.
Bari Centrale – Waiting for our FrecciaArgento – Bari, Italy
Brindisi Centrale – Brindisi, Italy
Brindisi does have a airport that is serviced by RyanAir. While here we saw several airplanes land and take off during the day and the airport was directly across the water on the other side of the city from our hotel.
Bindisi The City
Brindisi’s Citta Vecchia, or historical center, is a bit elongated but does reach to the bay where the port is located. The Corso Roma is the main avenue for shopping, though it cannot be compared to the one in Bari or other larger towns or cities we have visited along the coast.
Corso Roma – Brindisi, Italy
Corso Roma – Brindisi, Italy
City Market – Brindisi, Italy
Piazza Il Duomo And The Roman Column
The Piazza Il Duomo has the Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista and some other sites to see. The cathedral is rather plain inside, but somewhat impressive from the outside.
Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista – Brindisi, Italy
Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista – Modern Interior – Brindisi, Italy
The Colonne Romane, or Roman Column, was erected in the city to define one of the endpoints of the Appian Way, or the extent of Rome. Others have countered that they were merely erected as a visual aid for mariners to know where the actual port was located. There were two originally, of which only one still exists in all of its glory, the other crumbled in the mid sixteenth century. The crumbled remains of the one were donated to Lecce for their column.
Colonne Romane – Brindisi, Italy
Unesco site – Brindisi, Italy
Colonne Romane – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale
Our hotel was the Grande Albergo Internazionale located on the Viale Regina Margherita down by the water. We booked a suite which overlooked the water.
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Front – Brindisi, Italy
It is a somewhat dated hotel, but has enough amenities to be comfortable. However, the outside and inside looks like it is in need of some restoration. Our room was spacious and the bathroom modern which was a big benefit.
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Patti in our room – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Our room – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Restaurant for Breakfast – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Outside our window – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Outside our window – Brindisi, Italy
Lungomare di Brindisi
As the name implies, you are able to walk along the water for some length along the Lungomare di Brindisi. It starts near the parking area when you enter the port down to, but no further than the Approdo delle Indie. After that begins an Italian Naval Base and you are redirected up a set of stairs and away from the shore.
Viale Regina Margherita – Lungomare di Brindisi – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Italian Mariner monument from the Lungomare di Brindisi – Brindisi, Italy
Viale Regina Margherita – Lungomare di Brindisi – Brindisi, Italy
Brindisi Shuttle Service
From the Lungomare, or Viale Regina Margherita, about where it intersects with Piazza Vittorio Emanuele III is one location you can pick up the shuttle. It has a four stop route along the inlet and completes the circuit about once every twenty minutes. One use, simple route charge was 1.20€ per person, which only excepts contactless credit card or NFC contactless payments from your phone, NO CASH.
Brindisi Shuttle Service – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Dock on the Airport Side – Brindisi, Italy
Brindisi Shuttle Service – Brindisi, Italy
Saint John At The Sepulchre
The St John At The Sepulchre is an ancient eleventh century Church of the Holy Sepulcher with circular construction built over a pre-existing church. It was built to resemble the ancient Anastasis Rotunda of the Holy Selpuchre in Jerusalem with the intention of providing a memory of that structure.
St John At The Sepulchre – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Brindisi, Italy
The monument is intended to show the close relationship between Brindisi and the Holy Land during the time of the crusades. Built by the Knight Order of the Canons Regular sometime before 1128, it was conceived to give those who could not pilgrimage to the Holy Land a feeling for that destination, and for those who have, a reminder of it.
St John At The Sepulchre – Main Entrance – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Media Presentation – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Media Presentation Showing Route To Isreal – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Other Items – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Old Nails, Hinges – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Side Entrance Lintel – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Patio – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Garden In Back – Brindisi, Italy
The hole in the floor shows Roman mosaics belonging to a large Roman house dating back to the first and second century CE.
St John At The Sepulchre – Columns – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Roman Ruins – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Roof Timber Works – Brindisi, Italy
There are multiple frescoes on the walls depicting several different important themes of Christianity. All of which have been damaged by previous ownership, no doubt to repurpose the building for other uses.
St John At The Sepulchre – Deposition From The Cross, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Deesis, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Saint Inside Arcat, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Flagellation, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – The Virgin And The Child, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Pentecost, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Saint George And The Dragon, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Side Entrance Lintel – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Patio – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Garden In Back – Brindisi, Italy
Porta Napoli
The Porta Napoli, also known as the Porta Mesagne, is the oldest entrance to the ancient city. It was constructed during Roman times by Marc Anthony to isolate the city from land side invasions. The Ruga Magistra or main street originated from this gate, which coincides today with via Carmine and via Filomeno Consiglio today.
Porta Napoli – Brindisi, Italy
Porta Napoli – Brindisi, Italy
Castello Svevo
Unlike the map that one of the major search providers tries to imply you can walk the entire way around bay to the Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia; this cannot be done. We found out the difficult way by walking to Castello Svevo or the Swabian Castle of Brindisi, only to find out that you cannot enter without a pass, it is an active Naval Base. Temporary passes can be obtained online, but there is a forty-eight hour waiting period (don’t ask – I have no idea why, however it is required before you may return and enter). Since we are not staying here that long we decided to forgo that pleasure.
So, denied entry, we changed our plans and headed for the Fontana Tancredi, thinking that it might be a sight to see, and afterwards we could just walk toward the bay and find the Lungomare; no such luck on both accounts. Most of the area in and around the castle is restricted and cannot be entered, the fountain is fenced off, overgrown and only trickles water, so total failure on both accounts.
Via Provincial San Vito – Brindisi, Italy
Aldo Moro Monument – Brindisi, Italy
Southern Italian Naval Base – Brindisi, Italy
In fact, they have very large naval ships anchored here as well temporary housing for illegal immigrants. We attempted to go as far as the tennis club, or Circolo Tennis Club, but then turned around. Had we known beforehand, we could have continued further and picked up the bay shuttle about a half kilometer further.
Castello Svevo – Map and where not to go – Brindisi, Italy
While walking back, we discovered the Santuario Santa Maria degli Angeli church. A nondescript church from the outside offers a better view from the inside. If you are in the area of Via Ferrante Fornari and see the church, it is worth to stick your head in and take a look.
Santuario Santa Maria degli Angeli – Brindisi, Italy
Santuario Santa Maria degli Angeli – Nave and Ceiling – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia
The large monument across the bay is the Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia, a naval monument erected for the fallen navy personal of Italy. It has two shore guns on either side and may be climbed for a fee, there is a lookout on the top that has a commanding view of the city.
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Restaurants
Most of the restaurants that we visited were down by the water and along the Lungomare.
Ristorante Windsurf
We chose this restaurant out of convenience, mostly because of the rain and threat of thunderstorms, and glad we did because while we were eating it poured. It was also conveniently located thirty meters from our hotel entrance.
Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – Lobster tank – Brindisi, Italy
The food is typical pizzeria food with a concentration on sea food for everything else. I chose a pizza and Patti stuck with a panini that they offered on the menu. The Negroamaro from Puglia was actually very nice, dry but not overly tannic.
Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – A Negroamaro from Puglia – Brindisi, Italy
Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi
A similar cafe and pizzeria as WindSurf is Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi, located just below the stairs to the Roman Column. We stopped here for a simple lunch consisting of salads, bread and pizza points. The wine was house wine, but was very good.
Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi – Patti’s Green Salad With Fruit And Nuts – Brindisi, Italy
We also stopped later in the evening for dinner, since they were one of the few restaurants around showing pasta with ragu sauce on their menus. Patti ordered the Penne all’Arrabbiata and I ordered the Tagliatelle al Ragú.
Final Thoughts
Although we both thought that Brindisi is rather clean and has some things to offer, we weren’t so sure that we visit, if we didn’t have so much time on our hands being retired. Therefore, for the casual visitor to Italy, we would not commend a visit, Bari and Trani have more to offer.
On a lark, Patti decided to go to Trani, Italy for the day. The morning was clear, blue and fantastic, so we could not expect better weather.
Trani Centrale – Trani, Italy
VIa Cavour – Trani, Italy
Trani is a seaside town on the Adriatic Sea in the region of Apulia. It has great wine, olive oil and food. It has an active fishing community which supports the local economy.
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta
– Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Lighthouses – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Basilica from the castle – Trani, Italy
The City
The city itself is well laid out, even for an ancient town. The historic center though windy and curvy is very clean and well labeled for tourist. After about an hour here we found it a most unexpected delight and were glad we came.
Chiesa Beata Maria Vergine del Monte Carmelo (o del Carmine) – Trani, Italy
Piazza Sacra Regia Udienza – Port of Trani – Trani, Italy
Narrow streets – Trani, Italy
One of the many portals – Trani, Italy
One of the many portals – Trani, Italy
Door with no stairs – Trani, Italy
Orologie Tower – Trani, Italy
Long portal – Trani, Italy
Auditorium San Luigi – Trani, Italy
Church of Saint Claire – Trani, Italy
The Golden or Ancient door – Trani, Italy
Another church – Trani, Italy
The Piazze Quercia has a least one cafe or bar which has outside seating. It is a great place in the spring to stop before lunch and get a drink. We find it relaxing just to watch the locals and the boats going in and out of the harbor, and of course, enjoying the sunshine and the fifty degree weather.
There is a beautiful walkway or sidewalk that enables you to walk around the entire port. Unlike Bari, where you can do this if you can tolerate the smell, the port is clean and well maintained.
Live shrimp – Port of Trani – Trani, Italy
Fishing boats – Port of Trani – Trani, Italy
Port of Trani – Trani, Italy
Port of Trani – Trani, Italy
The fishing community appears to be active daily and some of the ships sell their catch right on the pier. You can find anything from live shrimp and fish to octopus. So, if you can cook in, bring your grocery bag and your wallet.
Parco Giochi Villa Comunale
The Parco Giochi Villa Comunale is located to the right of the Port of Trani as you walk as far as you can in the city. It has a portal that leads up to a great observation place, so that you get a commanding view of the boats and the jetties containing the lighthouses, which are all a different color.
Porto or entrance – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta
– Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Bar Boschetto – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Fishing boat going out to sea – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Park Seal – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
There are some interesting monuments and an old anchor. Walking further, you will happen upon a aviary at the end of the park where they house parakeets.
We actually found it to be an amazing little park with little things to see, along with the aviary with parakeets they also have real parrots, which you will eventually notice are in the trees all around you. When we were here, they were all doing their crazy mating calls and dances on the ground, what a cacophony!
Parrots – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Parrots – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta
In the Piazza Duomo is the Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta, also known as Trani Cathedral. This cathedral is dedicated to Saint Nichola the Pilgrim. It is a very large structure, but it only opens later in the day around 15:30.
Piazza Duomo Front – Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Trani, Italy
Piazza Duomo Front – Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Trani, Italy
There are some restrictions when you enter, so please read the signs, though we saw no enforcement; having said that, it was winter and the slow season, so it may be impractical for them to oversee traffic during that time.
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Frescoes – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Frescoes in the Crypt – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Orthodox bust in the Crypt – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Altar in the Crypt – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Entrance – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Nave – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani
The Castello Svevo di Trani in just a small walk from the Piazza Duomo and Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta. There is actually not much to see, but it does have a few small things of interest. At one time it was a prison and had other incarnations as you go back in time to protect the town. It is also noted to have a large clock on its edifice.
Castello Svevo di Trani – Entrance – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Patti and the Basilica from the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Diorama of the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Painting as you enter – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Sala Federico II room – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Ruins leading to the prison area – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Architecture of the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Old side portal in the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Strange window – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Old prison area of the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Lookout to the sea – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Old prison area of the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Large outside area – Trani, Italy
Restaurants
Since we were only doing a day trip, we were only able to visit one restaurant and that was for lunch.
Giù a Sud, Green Bistro
The Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot is located at Piazza Cesare Battisti in Trani. After viewing the menu outside we decided we would give it a try and we are glad we did.
Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Inside – Trani, Italy
Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Bar and Inside – Trani, Italy
Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Primitivo and bread – Trani, Italy
Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Bean and Lentil soup with croutons – Trani, Italy
Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Orecchiette and Broccoli Rape – Trani, Italy
The food and restaurant is sourced locally from green producers and prepared using artisanal recipes. They had a bean and lentil soup with croutons which was just delicious. I am pretty sure it is probably something that comes off the menu in the summer, but you may ask, in Italy you never know, especially in Mezzogiorno. We thoroughly enjoyed it.
Monopoli, Italy – Not Park Place nor Marvin Gardens
If you are looking for something to do and have a free day to explore, then you might consider Monopoli, Italy. Located about forty minutes by train south of Bari, Monopoli is a true workers town, there is no fluff here.
Monopoli Train Station – Monopoli, Italy
Via Conti di Torino – Monopoli, Italy
Narrow streets in the city – Monopoli, Italy
Narrow streets in the city – Monopoli, Italy
Typical residential streets in the city – Monopoli, Italy
Residential area – Monopoli, Italy
Buttresses against houses – Monopoli, Italy
Jetty for port – Monopoli, Italy
Patti where streets diverge – Monopoli, Italy
Pescaturismo
The city has a basic port and does conduct fishing and fishing tours or fish tourism (pescaturismo or Fatti piu là), during the spring and summer months, on simple craft that you can reserve. I am not sure of the details, but if you are into catching your own food, this may be something to investigate. In any case, their boats are a bright blue and easy to see in the harbor.
Pescaturismo – Monopoli, Italy
Pescaturismo – Monopoli, Italy
Pescaturismo – Monopoli, Italy
Churches
Probably one of the most frequent ancient building to see in Monopoli, perhaps like any other Italian city, is the church, cathedral or basilica. In Monopoli they are all around. Since there is not much else to see in this quaint little city, looking at churches may pass the time.
Chiesetta di San Giovanni secolo XVIII – Monopoli, Italy
Chiesa Rettoria di S. Maria Amalfitana – Monopoli, Italy
Monastery San Martino Sec. XVII Monopoli – Monopoli, Italy
Chiesa Rettoria Sant’Angelo – Monopoli, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Teresa – Monopoli, Italy
Chiesa Rettoria Sant’Angelo – Monopoli, Italy
Clock tower – Monopoli, Italy
Monuments And Piazzas
There are few monuments and piazzas in this town. The piazzas that we found, were either squeezed in somewhere or rather elongated and looked more like a road than a square.
Piazza – Monopoli, Italy
Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi – Monopoli, Italy
Buttresses against houses – Monopoli, Italy
However, in the new part of town, there is one large piazza that works instead of all the ones lacking in the old quarter, that is Piazza Vittoria Emanuele II.
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II – Monopoli, Italy
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II – Monopoli, Italy
Restaurants
There is not much to offer, especially during the winter seasons. There are frankly no restaurants in the old city open, so you will have to try your luck during off times in the newer sections of the city.
Michelangelo – L’arte del gusto
For lunch we ate here. Nothing extravagant, just a simple salad and the daily pasta. We were able to sit outside on the corner and watch the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele and enjoy our meal.
In part one was an initial take on how Bari is an ancient city built on a peninsula in the Adriatic Sea on the east coast of Italy. In this second part, some of the cathedrals and museums that are interesting and available to see upon visiting are discussed.
Lungomare – Bari, Italy
Lungomare – Bari, Italy
One of the many archways – Bari, Italy
The streets in the evening – Bari, Italy
One of the many archways – Bari, Italy
Museums
Of course ancient Bari has its museums, most of which record activities by humans that predate the Roman Empire. In some places in Italy and the Mediterranean Sea, one might come to the conclusion, that if one could dig deep enough one would uncover the big bang as well.
Questura and Municipal buildings – Bari, Italy
The Svevo Castle
If the Bari peninsula were to be looked at like it was a triangle, then the Castello Normanno-Svevo or Norman-Swabian Castle, would occupy the entire lower left hand angle. It is a huge building that occupies a considerable amount of real estate on that side of the old city.
Castello Svevo di Bari – Outside back wall – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Outside wall – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Outside wall – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Outside wall showing mote – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Outside wall – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Castle Well – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Outside wall – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Cappella Palatine – Bari, Italy
Surrounded by a moat that is currently grown in, the exterior appears well kept in spots, but requiring considerable work in other places.
The Swabian Castle Museum
The museum does not contain many artifacts per se, but it does have a very good multi-media presentation and displays in some of the larger spaces.
Castello Svevo di Bari – Federiciano portal stone – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Patti in courtyard – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Lion guarding entrance – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Diorama- Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Artifacts before the castle – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Entrance – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Artifacts before the castle – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Great Hall – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Great Hall – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Great Hall – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – archaeological dig – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Frescos – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Multimedia shows- Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Barletta bust – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – plaster casts – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – plaster casts – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – plaster casts – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – plaster casts – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – plaster cast of a capitol – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – plaster casts – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Griffins from Cathedral Saint Marie Assunta and San Sabino, 12th century – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Castello Svevo di Bari – Griffins from Cathedral Saint Marie Assunta and San Sabino, 12th century – Bari, Italy – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Basilica of Saint Nicola portal – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – altar – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – plaster casts – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Mary with Jesus and two angels from Cathedral dell Assunta and Saínt Michele Archangel, 14th century – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – ornate plaster casts – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Mary with Jesus and two angels from Cathedral of Saint Maria Assunta, 14-15th century – Bari, Italy
Churches and Cathedrals
Cathedral Of Bari
The Cathedral of Bari was built mostly in the last thirty years of the twelfth century. It was built on top of the destroyed Byzantine church that used to stand, as well as older Roman ruins.
Cathedrale di Bari – Outside – Bari, Italy
The interior is rather majestic for an ancient Catholic church and owes much to the simplicity of its architecture.
Cathedrale di Bari – Baptism font – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Aisle along Nave – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Nave – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Right Apse – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Left Apse – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Nave – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Frescos – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Papal Seal – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Column – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Altar – Bari, Italy
The Crypt
The church, architect and builders ensured that below this amazing edifice would be a crypt. The crypt preserves the remains of Saint Sabinus in the main altar, but there are other notable sarcophagi as well.
Cathedrale di Bari – Crypt entrance – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Crypt’s Ornate Ceiling and Columns – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Crypt Main Altar – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Crypt side altar – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Sarcophagus of Colomba di Sens, Crypt – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Crypt – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Crypt crèche – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Crypt Fresco – Bari, Italy
The Archaeological Ruins
Alongside and even below the crypt are some amazing archaeological ruins that extend all the way back to the third century. This includes some incredible mosaics, frescos and even a partial roman road, where one can even see the remains of where the wagon wheels once traveled.
Cathedrale di Bari – Sarcophagus – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Archaeological Roman floor – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Archaeological Roman Mosaic floor – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Archaeological Ornate Mosaic floor – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Archaeological Roman Road – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Archaeological Roman ruins – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Archaeological Roman Mosaic floor and Fresco – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Archaeological Roman ruins – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Archaeological Roman Bath – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Another Sarcophagus – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Archaeological Roman ruins – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Stairs and a Sarcophagus – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
The Church Museum
Finally there is a small museum showing old church vestments and other relics. Not particularly of much interest, so if you wish to skip this part you probably can without much guilt.
Cathedrale di Bari – Church Museum – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Church Museum – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Old Hymnal Parchment, Church Museum – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Ornate Capitol, Church Museum – Bari, Italy
Though having said that, the most interesting thing I though they had were a set of old hymnal parchment rolls.
Cathedrale di Bari – Old Hymnal Parchments, Church Museum – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Old Hymnal Parchments, Church Museum – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Old Hymnal Parchments, Church Museum – Bari, Italy
Restaurants
Ciclatera
Ciclatera, under the sea is a great spot to stop for a drink or to have a small bite to eat. Located on the Lungomare right after the Fort of San Antonio, this little cafe or restaurant has a great bar and food menu. We only stopped for a drink, but what we could see of the menu, the prices seemed pretty reasonable.
Ciclatera, under the sea – Cafe and Bistro – Bari, Italy
Piccinni 28
Located one block over in Murat from the old city on via Niccola Piccinni, is Piccinni 28 Italian restaurant. It appears to be a favorite for locals, since we saw numerous work groups come in and have lunch.
Inside – Restaurant Piccinni 28 – Bari, Italy
They offer pizza and a typical Italian menu with some Apulian twists to it. For us, it was trying something new, so we of course picked the Spaghetti All’Assassina, or assassin’s spaghetti, an overcooked spicy dish with ragu that is rather tasty.
Bari is an ancient city built on a peninsula in the Adriatic Sea on the east coast of Italy. It is part of the Apulia region of that country and for many centuries considered part of Southern Italy, which until early twentieth century was considered distinct from the Northern Italy.
The historic city streets – Bari, Italy
Welcome signs in the city streets – Bari, Italy
More signs in the city streets – Bari, Italy
The pasta ladies offerings – Orecchiette pasta – Bari, Italy
One of the arches in the city – Bari, Italy
Roman scaffolding – Bari, Italy
The Italians here speak their own language, which is distinct from Italian and descended from the Neapolitan Dialect called the Barese Dialect. The differences here are also reflected in the food, pasta and other cultural areas.
The pasta ladies offerings – Orecchiette pasta – Bari, Italy
The pasta ladies offerings – other treats – Bari, Italy
Piazza Mercantile – Bari, Italy
Via Melo di Bari – Bari, Italy
The city itself has four distinct areas or sections, the old ancient part of the city is located on the peninsula. The train station is located in Murat, which may be considered the business section of the city.
Lungomare Imperatore Augusto – Bari, Italy
Lungomare Imperatore Augusto – Patti – Bari, Italy
Via Andrea da Bari – Decorated for Christmas – Bari, Italy
Via Andrea da Bari – Bari, Italy
Getting There
Since we are located in Northern Italian city of Turin, there are two options for us to get there, either the Turin or Milan airport. Since RyanAir has service to many small cities in Italy, Turin being one of them, they were the right choice for us. They provide a direct non-stop flight from Turin to Bari which only takes an hour and a half. It’s not cheap, but on the reasonable side. Even in January, with two flights a day, the plan was almost full.
Leaving Turin – Turin Airport, Turin
RyanAir – Turin Airport, Turin
Flying over the Adriatic Coast of Italy – Italy
Bari Airport – Bari, Italy
Once we landed there were several options to get from the airport to the city. Train, bus, taxi and rent-a-car. When we can, we always prefer and ride the train. We just find it more relaxing and trouble free, but that of course depends on the country and the railroad that is available.
Apulia has its own train system, separate from TrennItalia, so we purchased tickets at the desk before entering the train station (I figure, I can always install the phone application later for any return business). The trip from Bari Airport to Bari Centrale (C.le) takes about thirty minutes with about four of five stops in between.
Bari Airport Train Station – Bari, Italy
Next stop, Bari Centrale – Bari, Italy
Where We Stayed
Frankly, I no longer care for BnBs and will take a hotel over them any day. However, given the opportunity to check other Bed and Breakfast places, outside the crap these applications serve up, we will book our stays with them, provided we have thoroughly checked them out ahead of time using other people’s recommendations as our source material.
More signs in the city streets – Bari, Italy
Welcome signs in the city streets – Bari, Italy
The historic city streets – Bari, Italy
Murex B&B
Murex B&B is a very nice modern Bed & Breakfast in the heart of the ancient city of Bari. The owners are young, attentive and respectful of our needs. The amenities that are provided are sufficient and plentiful. Our room came with breakfast each morning and other treats, that would not normally be provided at some hotels and definitely not at those other places.
Main door – Murex B&B – Bari, Italy
The ascent to our B&B – Murex B&B – Bari, Italy
Our host Antonio – Murex B&B – Bari, Italy
One word of caution however, the staircase to enter is rather steep. So, if you require assistance with your luggage, you should ask. The owners are more than obliging to any requests and will carry it up and down for you.
La Citta room – Murex B&B – Bari, Italy
La Citta room – Murex B&B – Bari, Italy
La Citta room – Murex B&B – Bari, Italy
Our room was La Città, it was spacious, well lit and warm. The bed was firm with a cushion top and it definitely helped me nod off.
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola
The Basilica Pontificia San Nicola was built in the late eleventh and early twelfth centuries and consists of a basic architecture of a nave with neighboring aisles.
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Main Entrance – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Courtyard – Bari, Italy
The ceiling and interior has a rarity to it, that only an ancient church can provide. The roof is made of wood and is occluded by arches buttressing the sides together, few if any at right angles to each other, giving the entire interior a rather haphazard look.
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Interior – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Interior – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Interior – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Interior – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Interior – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Ornate Ceiling – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Altar – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Interior – Bari, Italy
The Crypt
Here you can find the tomb of Saint Nicholas, the patron saint of Christmas. The crypt is a beautiful room with myriad arches all of which are adorned with unique capitols.
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Crypt – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Crypt – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Crypt – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Crypt – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Crypt – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Crypt – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Crypt – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Crypt – Bari, Italy
Restaurants
Our first day here we only had time for one meal. Since we ate rather late in the afternoon, around three o’clock, we simply weren’t hungry enough for dinner later that evening.
Matiti Pasta Bistrot
This bistrot did not get very good ratings online, however we found both the food and service adequate for lunch. I ordered a glass of red Primitivo wine from the area which was just delicious, and a 5€ glass, it didn’t hurt my wallet either.
Patti’s Caprese – Matiti Pasta Bistro – Bari, Italy
Erick’s Insalata Mista – Matiti Pasta Bistro – Bari, Italy
We kept things simple with a Caprese Salad, an Insalata Mista and later some pasta. After that I had an espresso and a sambuca. The total came to 62€ for two people, with two glasses of wine and coperto.
Patti’s Orecchiette with Speck and Pistachio Cream Sauce – Matiti Pasta Bistro – Bari, Italy
Erick’s Spaghetti and Meatballs – Matiti Pasta Bistro – Bari, Italy
