Kind of by luck and definitely by accident, we made our own religious pilgrimage on Easter Sunday. Our pre-planned trip was always to visit Domodossola, but only included our walk up the Via Calvario as an aside, or suggestion, if we had time. It ended up being the perfect event on a near perfect day, at least with respect to the weather.
Domodossola
A large city at the top edge of Italy with Switzerland. It is the last stop on the train line from Italy into its neighboring country. It is an odd mix of new with some very old parts. The streets are very clean and well maintained. Some of the buildings date back to Columbus’ day and actually look it.
Via Giovanni Capis – Domodossola, Italy
Entrance – Collegiata dei Santi Gervaso e Protaso – Via Giovanni Capis – Domodossola, Italy
Nave – Collegiata dei Santi Gervaso e Protaso – Via Giovanni Capis – Domodossola, Italy
Narrow Streets – Domodossola, Italy
The city has the usual fountains and piazzas. Since it was a holiday, all museums and other tourist related buildings and facilities were closed. However, we did find some shops and restaurants that would normally be closed on a Sunday, open.
Piazza Fountana – Domodossola, Italy
One Of The Main Streets – Domodossola, Italy
Buildings Of All Shapes And Sizes – Domodossola, Italy
Very Old Building – Domodossola, Italy
Beautifully Cobbled Streets – Domodossola, Italy
Pretty Architecture – Domodossola, Italy
Getting There
We took one of the Regional Express trains from Stresa and we were there within a half an hour. Unexpectedly, we were stopped by police inside the train station after we got off the train. I guess it was probably because there were no other IC or EC trains going into Switzerland, so they had nothing better to do. They asked me for my travel documents and luckily I had my new wallet sized US passport. They took a photograph of it, exclaimed that it was the first time they saw one and let me pass. My wife told them all she had was a driver’s license, but the quickly looked at her and said no problem, go through. Yeah, they don’t profile in Italy. So, if you are traveling close to the Swiss border in Italy, bring your passport and travel documents, you never know, you might be stopped!
On Our Way To Domodossola – Train Station – Stresa, Italy
Train Station – Domodossola, Italy
Train Station – Domodossola, Italy
Streets – Domodossola, Italy
Monte Calvario
To see the fifteen chapels and stations of the cross, you have to climb Monte Calvario. You arrive at the mount by the Via Calvario, a street which can be found off the Via Matterella.
Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
The first thing you will see is a small church or chapel with a large sign explaining the origins, history and design of the entire idea.
Church – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Church – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Doors on the Church – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Doors on the Church – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
A bit further down this road will be the start of the Via Calvario. At first, the first four chapels come fast and furious.
Cherry Trees – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Crossing to Monte Calvario – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – First Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Mountains – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Second Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Second Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Third Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Third Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Once the road starts to incline, it might be better to walk on the flat pavement stones in the middle, or the outer edges if you have to, because after a short while the vertically set stones will take a toll on your feet.
The Long Way Up – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Fourth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Fourth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Then the incline increases and it takes a bit longer to get to the next four. But, our weather was extremely pleasant, sunny and in the middle sixty degrees Fahrenheit.
Chapel – Fifth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Sixth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Fifth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Sixth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Climb To The Seventh Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Mountains In Early Spring – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Patti – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Seventh Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Seventh Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Seventh Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Final Stairs To The Top – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
The Town With Mountains Behind – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Grounds On Top – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Once you have reached the eigth station, you are more on less on the top of the mount. Here you will find the remaining four, eight, nine, ten and eleven.
Chapel – Eigth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Eigth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Ninth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Ninth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Tenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Tenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Eleventh Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Eleventh Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
The twelfth and thirteenth are actually in the Church of the Holy Crucifix. A beautiful little church and chapel with real candles that may be lit for prayers.
Church Del SS Crocifisso – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Church Del SS Crocifisso – Twelfth And Thirteenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Church Del SS Crocifisso – Twelfth And Thirteenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Church Del SS Crocifisso – Twelfth And Thirteenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
The remaining stations are outside again. We only managed to find the fifteenth station, since it is right next to an overview of the city. The other, was below by the cafe, which we had no interest at that point in visiting.
Chapel – Fifteenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Fifteenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
View Of Domodossola And Mountains – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Patti – Domodossola And Mountains – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Restaurants
After walking the city for about an hour, we found a bistro for lunch. We only order salads and cannot say much about the quality of their steak, which seems to be their primary offering. However, had we known better, there was a quaint little Osteria not far from there that was actually serving an Easter dinner, with lamb and all usual italian side dishes. Oh well, our loss.
With this post we will note that we have seen a marked increase in restaurant prices. Not only for food, but drinks as well. Perhaps not exspensive as the States, but they are getting up there.
Restaurant Bistro Steak House
As a Insalata Greco goes, they were okay. About medium in size and they didn’t have a lot of Feta cheese on them, so the owner is a bit cheap. But the food was okay and not terribly expensive. I would say, if you have time, find somewhere else, but the food is fine otherwise, though you may find the service more than lacking, especially after you receive your food.
Entrance – Bisto Steak House – Domodossola, Italy
Insalata Mista – Bisto Steak House – Domodossola, Italy
Another good tip, at least for here, but we have seen it elsewhere too. If you are done and have already told them so, get up and go to the bar (Cassa) and pay, don’t wait for them to come back. You may sprout some new grey hairs if you do.
A former eminent place where most woolen products came from in Italy is the city of Biella. As far back as the thirteenth century, the city has been known for its fine wool fabrics and products. However, with the recent globalization of products and competition of the early twenty-first century, many of the factories and businesses associated with that industry have gone away, creating what some might term – the woolen woes.
Waiting for Tram 13 – Vittoria Veneto Piazza – Turin, Italy
Torino Porta Susa Train Station – Turin, Italy
Torino Porta Susa Train Station – Turin, Italy
The Alps From Our Train To Biella – Turin, Italy
The Alps From Our Train To Biella – Turin, Italy
Biella San Paolo Train Station – Biella, Italy
Biella
The city sits at the foot of the eponymous mountain range of the Biellese Alps. It has been so affected by the wool industry’s decline and other issues, that it is considering cutting back on some municipal services, including the possible cessation of the funicular, or the Funicolare del Piazzo, which was severely damaged by past weather events.
Outdoor Market – Biella, Italy
Getting There
We took the train from Turin’s Porta Susa to Biella. It is easy and very cost effective and only takes about an hour.
Biella San Paolo Train Station – Biella, Italy
Biella San Paolo Train Station – Biella, Italy
Though a very liveable city, it is fairly quiet, but we found lacking in some amenities. It is also not a very pretty city, it had many empty stores while we were here and many buildings appeared to have maintenance issues. However, if you did not stray far from the main street of Via Italia you wouldn’t notice.
Entering Town – Biella, Italy
Typical Fascist Period Building – Via Torino – Biella, Italy
San Paolo Church Tower – Via Torino – Biella, Italy
SP338 – Biella, Italy
Zumaglini Park – Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Zumaglini Park – Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Old Building – Via S. Filippo and Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Piazza Biella
On the west side of the city, on top of the hill, is the Piazza Biella. A fifteen to twenty minute walk up the Costa del Piazza will bring you to the upper part of town. The cobbled street is a bit treacherous, so take care, especially if the weather is bad, the stones are quite slippery, even when dry.
Via Cerino Zegna – Biella, Italy
Patti – Costa del Piazzo – Biella, Italy
Costa del Piazzo – Biella, Italy
Patti – Costa del Piazzo – Biella, Italy
Patti – Costa del Piazzo – Biella, Italy
Costa del Noci – Costa del Piazzo – Biella, Italy
Here you will find the Piazza Biella, which has a few cafes and bars to enjoy. Aside from that, it is very quiet.
Piazza Biella – Biella, Italy
Church of San Giacomo – Piazza Biella – Biella, Italy
Close by is the Piazza Mario Cucco, from where you will be able to get a fantastic view of the Biellese Alps.
Piazza Mario Cucco – Biella, Italy
Patti With The Alps In Background – Piazza Mario Cucco – Biella, Italy
Erick With The Alps In Background – Piazza Mario Cucco – Biella, Italy
Piazza Mario Cucco – Biella, Italy
Piazza Mario Cucco – Biella, Italy
Old Buildings – Piazza Mario Cucco – Biella, Italy
One the way down, we took the Costa San Sebastiano, which led us directly to the Basilica of San Sebastiano in Biella.
Patti – Costa San Sebastiano – Biella, Italy
Costa San Sebastiano – Biella, Italy
Costa San Sebastiano – Biella, Italy
Basilica Biella
The Basilica of San Sebastiano, together with the monastery of San Girolamo, stands as the pinnacle of the Biella Renaissance. Commissioned and funded by Sebastiano Ferrero, it featured artists from the Lombardy region for its masonry work. The church’s foundation stone was laid in 1500, and in honor of the patron, it was dedicated to San Sebastiano. The construction was overseen by Maestro Eusebio, who was present during the laying of the foundation stone. By 1504, the church’s walls were already finished, but it wasn’t consecrated until 1540 by Monsignor Guglielmo di Gattinara, the Bishop of Nicomedia.
Entrance – Basilica San Sebastiano – Biella, Italy
Interior – Basilica San Sebastiano – Biella, Italy
Cathedral of Biella
From the outside the Biella Cathedral, or Cathedral of Saint Stefano Protomartire, might almost remind one of a mosque, if it weren’t for the cross on the apex of the roof.
Entrance and Front – Cathedral of Saint Mary Assunta – Biella, Italy
However, from the inside there is no mistaking it for anything other than a catholic cathedral. Interestingly, the interior contors of the colums and relief of the ceiling are all a visual illusion and one of the best examples of trompe-l’œil. This is where the intricate details are painted on the existing stone, plaster or masonry to mimick definition or relief, when in fact there is none.
Interior – Cathedral of Saint Mary Assunta – Biella, Italy
Interior – Cathedral of Saint Mary Assunta – Biella, Italy
If you look carefully you may find the original first foundation stone for the church, that is before it became of cathedral. It was set in the early fifteenth century and has been interpreted, first from the ancient latin, then into modern italian.
Foundation Stone – Cathedral of Saint Mary Assunta – Biella, Italy
The english translation would say, “1402, today on the 20th of March, construction of this church was begun by master Giovanni Borri.”
Foundation Stone Interpretation – Cathedral of Saint Mary Assunta – Biella, Italy
Biella Baptistery
Extremely close by the cathedral is the Baptistery of John the Baptist. Unfortunately, no entry is allowed. But a quick look of the outside and it is clear that it is a fairly old building.
Baptistry of John the Baptist – Via Battistero – Biella, Italy
Baptistry of John the Baptist – Via Battistero – Biella, Italy
Baptistry of John the Baptist – Via Battistero – Biella, Italy
Church of the Santissima Trinity
Directly off the Via Italia is the small church of Santissima Trinity. It has high vaulted ceilings with frescoes and a very ornate altar. Here again, the relief is mostly done using paint.
Church of the Santissima Trinity – Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Church of the Santissima Trinity – Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Church of the Santissima Trinity – Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Restaurants
Since this was a day trip, we only had time to enjoy lunch. At first we had some difficulty and our first choice, the higly rated L’Arrugginita on the upper side of town, was completely booked. Then we mistakenly sat down in what we thought was a neapolitan pizzeria, which turned out to actually be a poke bowl bistro. Then finally we found Ristorante Il Salotto.
Ristorante Il Salotto
A very fine place for lunch, Il Salotto offers a tasty fixed priced menu at €17 for pasta (primi only), or €24 for the two course lunch (primi and secundi). For the extra seven euros a piece, we were able to order two primi pasta dishes and two secundi meat dishes, with bread, a glass of wine and water for total of €51.
Entrance – Ristorante Il Salotto – Biella, Italy
Interior – Ristorante Il Salotto – Biella, Italy
Interior – Ristorante Il Salotto – Biella, Italy
Interior – Ristorante Il Salotto – Biella, Italy
The food was excellent, as was the service and decor. If you are ever in Biella, definitely one of the places to eat.
Ravioli with Cabbage and Meat – Ristorante Il Salotto – Biella, Italy
Pork Tenderloin in sauce with pickled onions – Ristorante Il Salotto – Biella, Italy
The one unique feature this city has over others that we have visited are its Bächle, or small streams or runnels that network themselves through most city streets. Though in the past they were used for waste disposal and fire suppression, their contemporary revision is much cleaner and used more for fun than anything functional.
Freiburg im Breisgau
The city lays on the lower west side of the Schwarzwald, or the Black Forest. It is an odd mixture of contemporary and renovated old buildings, but appears to be very liveable. They have an active tram system and local buses, though the residents do appear to enjoy walking for the most part.
Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Old Freiburger Zeitung Building – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Zum Meijerhof Restaurant Building – Grünwälderstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Getting There
It is almost necessary to use the A5 to reach the city, though I imagine there might be other ways as well. We entered from the north, via Europaplatz, where we found adequate parking nearby. Europaplatz offers access to the tram system and might be a good starting point for those not wishing to walk.
Habsburgerstraße – Europaplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Friedrichring – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Kaiser-Josephstraße – Monument – Europaplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Kaiser-Josephstraße – Monument – Europaplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
The Bächle
The Bächle[1]the term is Bächlein in german are on most streets, at least in the older parts of the city. As a child, if you’ve ever had the occasion to play in a small stream or ditch, then you would just love Freiburg im Breisgau. They sure delight the city children. The city appears to be very child friendly and they even sell little boats on a string for children to play with in the Bächle.
Bächle – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Ericka, Vlad and Gabi – Bächle – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Bächle – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Schwabentor
The Schwabentor, or Swabian Gate, is the most recent gate to the city and is located on Herrenstraße, another street which has a Bächle.
Oberlindenbrunnen and Schwabentor – Herrenstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Herrenstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Freiburger Münster
The first bricks for the large gothik style Freiburger Münster, or Münster Unserer Lieben Frau, were laid around 1146. After several incantations as a small unassuming church through 1260, the church was redesigned with new importance in the late 1200s. It wasn’t until the late 1400s that it attained is final form one can see today.
Freiburger Münster Cathedral – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Freiburger Münster Cathedral – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Münsterplatz And Merchant’s Hall
The Münsterplatz is adjacent to the cathedral and includes several city buildings and businesses.
Münsterplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Münsterplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Münsterplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
One historic building that stands out in Münsterplatz is the Historisches Kaufhaus, or Merchant’s Hall. With its striking red exterior it is impossible to miss and the result of contemporary renovations, having suffered bomb damage and other design changes throughout the years. The facade today is adorned with replicas of Holy Roman Emperors and an Archduke, who did not become emperor because he died before his father and didn’t inherit all of his father’s titles.
Merchants Hall – Münsterplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Merchants Hall – Münsterplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Augustinerplatz
Though not much to look at the Augustinerplatz is where the museum and several other important government buildings are located, including for us ironically, the Italian Consulate.
Augustinerplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Augustinerplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Gerberau – Augustinerplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Museum – Augustinerplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Connecting Augustinerplatz to Kaiser-Josephstraße is Gerberau street.
Gerberau – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Martinstor
A major gate in the city, aside from the swabian gate, or Scwabentor, is Martinstor. Located on Kaiser-Josephstraße, more or less in the center of town, the tower stands above all the other buildings. The street runs directly through the tower, like in many other walled cities in Germany and delineates the old city from its newer parts.
Martinstor – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Martinstor – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Martinstor – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Martinstor – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Restaurants
For our day trip we chose to have chinese or japanese and found a nice modern place that opened in the remains of the old Laubfrosch restaurant.
Unkai
If you are looking for either chinese or japanese cuisine look no further than Unkai Asian Fusion.
Unkai Restaurant – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
The decor inside is decidedly modern and the staff is very attentive to your needs, especially if that has to do with children.
Unkai Restaurant – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Unkai Restaurant – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Unkai Restaurant – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Unkai Restaurant – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Unkai Restaurant – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Unkai Restaurant – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
A stone’s throw from Colmar is the small Zwiebelstadt of Eguisheim[1]In German it is spelled Egisheim, France. Here you will enjoy what a small medievalAlsatian town feels like.
Equisheim
The germans use the term Zwiebelstadtto denote any small medieval town that is formed like an onion. Though typically they have eight sides with concentric alleys bisected by a Grand Rue, or main street, they may be circular or oval as well. In the center of it all you will usually find a church or main plaza.
City Map – Stadtplan – Eguisheim, France
In the above the following are noteworthy, according to town officials, starting at (D) with the Pigeon Loft.
Rue de Ramport – The colors of Eguisheim
Rue de Ramport – Round and round the town
The gates of the town
The town’s inscriptions
Stone engravings
The chateau
The host of the chapel
The virgins of Eguisheim (the church)
The tithe courtyards
The area around the town is noted for its excellent alsatian wines. Upon entering the town visitors can see a record of the vineyards proudly displayed along with restaurants and a map of the town.
Alsatian WIneries – Eguisheim, France
Getting There
From Colmar a quick drive down the Rue de Tiefenbach or the Route de Rouffach puts you on the D83 for a short time before you reach one of the many small roads that will take you into town, though typically it would be the Rue de la 1er Armée.
The fields outside – Entering the town – Eguisheim, France
Wine press near parking lot – Eguisheim, France
Grand Rue
Cutting through the center of town is the Grand Rue, or main street. Here is where you will find most all of the shops and many of the wineries.
Typical winery on the edge of town – Eguisheim, France
Entering town – Grand Rue – Eguisheim, France
Paired towns Eguisheim and Hinterzarten – Grand Rue – Eguisheim, France
Hotel de Ville – Grand Rue – Eguisheim, France
More hotels – Grand Rue – Eguisheim, France
Winery – Grand Rue – Eguisheim, France
The tourism office is close by the Eguisheim Fountain, so once you locate that, it’s just a stone’s throw away.
Fountain of Eguisheim – Grand Rue – Eguisheim, France
Charles Bauer winery – Grand Rue – Eguisheim, France
Rue de Rempart
We spent most of our time walking this alley, which circumnavigates the town. Since the town is laid out like an onion, you will eventually come back to where you started.
La Grange de Eguisheim – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
La Grange de Eguisheim – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Timber Houses – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Quaint cafe – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Cobbled alley – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Small timbered house – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
More timbered houses – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Walking along – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Tower of Église Saints-Pierre-et-Paul – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Ericka, Gabi, Vlad and Patti walking ahead – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
The Rue de Rempart creates two rows of buildings that acted like fortifications for the town. Since the town was not initially meant to be a fortress, but was more economical in nature, the outside wall turned into another row of houses some time in the sixteenth century.
Ivy on house – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Storks are everywhere – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Shops – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Houses that formed the outter wall of the original town – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Houses that formed the outter wall of the original town – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Round and round Eguisheim – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Intersection of Grand Rue – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
And on it goes in a great circle – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Ericka, Gabi, Vlad and Patti walking ahead – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Less renovated houses – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Many buildings in the town are also adorned with coats-of-arms. Many of the pediments and lintels are decorated with them and other engravings, usually left by the stone masons themselves. In most cases the coat-of-arms indicated who lived in the house according to their profession, a butcher’s block for a butcher for example. However, a sword crossing a shield would indicate a master craftsman in that profession.
Coats of arms on buildings and other markings – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Chapelle Saint-Léon IX
Along with the chateau that is close by, the Chapel of Saint Leon IX is a central sight. The fountain of Saint Leon is directly below the stairs to the chapel.
Chapelle Saint-Léon IX – Place du Château Saint Léon – Eguisheim, France
Chapelle Saint-Léon IX – Inside – Place du Château Saint Léon – Eguisheim, France
Chapelle Saint-Léon IX – Main Entrance – Place du Château Saint Léon – Eguisheim, France
Place du Château Saint Léon – Eguisheim, France
Église Saints-Pierre-et-Paul
Off on another street is the Church of Saints Peter and Paul. Though larger than the chapel, the outside and inside are more austere.
Église Saints-Pierre-et-Paul – Eguisheim, France
Église Saints-Pierre-et-Paul – Inside – Eguisheim, France
Other Sights
If you walk enough you will find an old American Willeys Jeep left over from the war. There are also several other wineries of the main streets as well.
One last view – Eguisheim, France
Old American Willeys Jeep – Eguisheim, France
Jos. Freudenreich Winery – Cour Unterlinden – Eguisheim, France
Though we only spent a few hours here, we thoroughly enjoyed it, especially since the weather was very nice. It might make more sense though, to stay a bit longer and enjoy a wine tour throught he vineyards and one or two wine tastings. In any event, it is a great place to stop and is highly recommended.
Restaurants
Unfortunately, we cannot commend a place to eat or drink, since we did neither in Eguisheim. A wine tasting might be commended though, since it is at the center of Alsatian wine country!
Anyone walking through the idealic and picturesque city of Colmar, France will notice the abundance of timber and sandstone used in it’s buildings. From simple timber framed houses, to large churches built almost entirely of sandstone.
Colmar
The city of Colmar has benefited from both French and German influences, especially with it’s architecture. This is what makes it such an interesting place to visit. Not only have many of the structures survived the many wars between the two countries, the population has seemed to have taken care of them down through the centuries.
Getting There
From Frankfurt you can the A5, which I believe is only designated a 5 now. We took it and then cut over to France at Strasbourg and took the A35 down. If you take that route you get to enjoy the Statue of Liberty.
Statue of Liberty – 33 Route de Strasbourg – Colmar, France
Statue of Liberty – 33 Route de Strasbourg – Colmar, France
Timber Houses
The city is repleat with Fachwerkhäuser, or timber houses. Many dating back many centuries and showing their age.
Timber House – Colmar, France
La Petite Venise – Colmar, France
La Petite Venise – Colmar, France
Timber Houses – Colmar, France
Timber Houses – Colmar, France
Rue des Marchands – Colmar, France
Rue des Marchands – Colmar, France
Croisement Rue des Marchands, Grand Rue – Colmar, France
It is essential to visit the Grand Rue, which is the main shopping street of the city. Here you can shop and dine and explore the many facets of Colmar.
Rue Vauban – Colmar, France
Grand Rue – Colmar, France
The Rue Vauban is also an important thoroughfare to visit and is itself decorated with many of the timber houses that adorn other parts of the city.
Old Timber House 1562 – Rue Vauban – Colmar, France
Rue Vauban – Colmar, France
Rue Vauban – Colmar, France
Rue Vauban – Colmar, France
Rue Vauban – Colmar, France
21 Rue Vauban – Colmar, France
Another must-see street is the Rue de Tetes. Here you can find the Maison des Tetes which was built in 1609 by Anton Burger, who later became the mayor of the city. The building owes its name to the many masks and grimacing faces that adorn its exterior. The figure on the top of the three-story oriel is of the twentieth century barrel-maker Auguste Bartholdi, at which time the building was used as a wine exchange.
Maison des Tetes – Rue des Tetes – Colmar, France
Rue des Tetes – Colmar, France
Maison des Tetes – Rue des Tetes – Colmar, France
Timber Houses – Rue des Tetes – Colmar, France
Place Martyrs de la Resistance – Rue des Tetes – Colmar, France
Place Martyrs de la Resistance – Rue des Tetes – Colmar, France
Place Martyrs de la Resistance – Rue des Tetes – Colmar, France
La Petite Venise
They call it the small Venice, but not really, it’s just one canal and it only goes about one block. It is a very pretty area and is worth a stop if you are in the area.
La Petite Venise – Colmar, France
La Petite Venise – Colmar, France
La Petite Venise – Colmar, France
Gabi and Ericka – La Petite Venise – Colmar, France
There is a gondala ride you can take, if you cannot enjoy the real thing.
La Petite Venise – Colmar, France
La Petite Venise – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin
The Collégiale Saint-Martin is a church that is run by a secular group of clergy, that are responsible for the church’s administration as well as several aspects of the attached college. There were at least two churches on the same site, dating back to the eleventh century. The current church grew out of a set of buildings that started the early thirteenth century.
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Main Entrance – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Clock – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Season Calendar – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Tympanum and Tower – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Tympanum – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Southern Face – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – At Night – Colmar, France
The interior is spacious and maintains a typical cathedral design, with an apse, altar and transept. Over the entrance is located a very large organ, which is accessed by a spiral staircase located in one of the corners.
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Nave – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Nave – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Nave – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Crossing and Transept – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Nave and Organ – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Crossing and Transept – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Chapel – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Chapel – Colmar, France
Restaurants
Colmar has numerous restaurants and cafes catering to most tastes. However, we would recommend trying the alsatian food, an interesting mixture of french and german cuisine.
Le Fer Rouge
Le Fer Rouge is a true alsatian restaurant and serves good food. This was our first food stop in Colmar and we thoroughly enjoyed it.
Le Fer Rouge Restaurant – Entrance – Rue des Marchands – Colmar, France
I ordered the Schweinhaxen, or roasted pig shank, and it was delicious. It was marinated in a semi-sweet french sauce that was just outstanding. The Schwarzwälderkirchetorte, or Black Forest Cake, however was not that good. The creme was a bit stiff and the cherries lacked a rich taste, one expects from this dessert; a true dissappointment.
Le Fer Rouge Restaurant – Menu – Rue des Marchands – Colmar, France
Patti, Ericka and Vlad – Le Fer Rouge Restaurant – Rue des Marchands – Colmar, France
Le Fer Rouge Restaurant – Schweinshaxe with Honey, Thyme and Potatoes, Bread – Rue des Marchands – Colmar, France
Le Fer Rouge Restaurant – Stuffed Meat Beef with Mixed Greens – Rue des Marchands – Colmar, France
Le Fer Rouge Restaurant – Rue des Marchands – Colmar, France
Le Fer Rouge Restaurant – Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte, Black Forest Cake – Rue des Marchands – Colmar, France
Brasserie Chez Hansi
The Brasserie Chez Hansi is another alsatian restaurant with a simple atmosphere.
Chez Hansi – Menu – Colmar, France
Chez Hansi – Inside – Colmar, France
The menu is easy to intepret and there appears to be something for everyone’s taste. I would commend however the Sauerkraut and Würste platter, it was excellent.
Chez Hansi – Flammkuchen (Pizza?) – Colmar, France
Chez Hansi – Chicken and Spätzle – Colmar, France
Chez Hansi – Sauerkraut Platter with Würst and Potatoes – Colmar, France
Le Bistrot des Copains
Last, and definitely least, is the Le Bistrot des Copains. It has a very average rating and you will find it is well deserved. The food is okay, nothing to write home about for sure. The service is adequate and they do try to help you with any requests. This restaurant would fall into the tourist trap category, if such a thing exists. It is well attended, but it perplexes me why.
Since the weather had been on the inclement side, what better place to visit than Lauterbrunnen, from where at least eight waterfalls of note may be seen.
Staubbach Falls – Main Street – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Getting There
From Wengen we took the Wengernalp Railway using our Oberlander Pass, since it covers travel in this region and Lauterbrunnen is the end station on this line.
Lauterbrunnen
Lauterbrunnen is again a typical alpine resort town with one main street dotted with shops and little else. It is the town you park you vehicle if you are staying in Wengen (since no vehicles are allowed).
Main Street – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
The main street leads through the town from the train station and continues all the way to the end of the valley, however only after many name changes along the way.
Mettelnalp – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Schiltwaldbachfall – Village Reformed Church – – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Staubbach Falls – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Mettlenalp – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Staubbach Falls – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Almenhubel – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Once outside town the road narrows a bit, but offers a good path to have a long lazy hike down the valley. Cars are few, even though there are several camping sites along the way and parking lots for vehicles.
Staubbach Falls – Main Street – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Buchenbachfall – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Almenhubel – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Staubbach Falls – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
The Weisse Lütschine river flows the length of the valley as it gathers up many small tributaries that add to its volume along the way. During our walk you could hear its constant roar in the background.
Mettlenalp – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Buchenbachfall – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Restaurants
Once we returned to Wengen, we had reservations and ate dinner at the following restaurant.
Berghaus Restaurant
This resort and hotel restaurant is small and offers traditional German and Swiss dishes. The author can recommend the Apple Strudel, it was very tasty, not ruined by sugar like in the States.
Berghaus Restaurant – Main Entrance – Wengen, Switzerland
Berghaus Restaurant – Herb Soup – Wengen, Switzerland
Berghaus Restaurant – Schnitzel With Fries – Wengen, Switzerland
On Sunday, the first of June, we traveled to Reykjavik, Iceland for a stop-over of a couple of days as we started our journey back to the United States. We arrived only to experience a truly deep extra-tropical cyclone that had set itself up off the coast of Iceland and gave us a memorably windy start to our trip back and the end of our weekend.
Getting There
From Turin we took the FrecciaRossa to Milan Central Station and then up to Malpensa Airport by regional train. The two trips combined were a bit over two hours and more or less uneventful, though one could see tourist travel has definitely picked up in recent weeks, so the trains were pretty full.
Icelandair – Airport – Keflavik, Iceland
Airport Terminal – Keflavik, Iceland
Milan to Keflavik – Flying Over – Iceland
Milan to Keflavik – Flying Over – Iceland
Milan to Keflavik – Coast Near Airport – Iceland
Having only a few days to experience what we could of this volcanic island, we decided to stay in Reykjavik. A good forty-five minute drive from Keflavik Airport to Reykjavik, you only have two options, by bus or by automobile (honestly I am not sure if there is an ocean option). It does not matter whether you arrange or book a transfer service through something like GetYourGuide, or take a taxi directly from the airport, both costs are pretty much the same. The bus however is a cheaper option at around $30 per passenger, but does leave you generally on the southern outskirts of town, so you will either have to walk from there or hire a taxi to get to your hotel.
Get Your Guide Transfer – Keflavik to Reykjavik- Iceland
Get Your Guide Transfer – Keflavik to Reykjavik- Iceland
Get Your Guide Transfer – Keflavik to Reyjkavik – Iceland
Get Your Guide Transfer – Keflavik to Reykjavik- Iceland
Reykjavik – The City
The city reminded me of a long lost outpost that has been built up over the decades. Even the airports are pieced together from left over vestiges of American activities during World War II. The house are generally clad in corrugated galvanized sheets typically used for roofing material. Many are painted in bright colors to enhance their roadside appeal.
Laugavegur – Main Pedestrian and Shopping Street – Reykjavik, Iceland
Laugavegur – Main Pedestrian and Shopping Street – Reykjavik, Iceland
Side Street to Saebraut – Reykjavik, Iceland
Safnahúsið – House of Collections – Reykjavik, Iceland
Typical Street – Reykjavik, Iceland
Mixture of Architecture – Reykjavik, Iceland
Houses with Corrugate Metal Walls – Reykjavik, Iceland
Colorful Houses – Reykjavik, Iceland
Our Hotel
We stayed at the Sand Hotel in town, a Keahotel, of which there are a few in Reykjavik. We found it comfortable and central for our needs. A continental breakfast was included each morning, which we found to be actually a bit more than a mere continental breakfast and more than adequate for our needs. However, if you do not have a hotel with included breakfast, don’t worry, there are plenty of cafes, pastry and waffel shops around to grab a bite to eat in the morning.
Sand Hotel by Keahotels – Main Entrance – Reykjavik, Iceland
Saebraut And The Sun Voyager
Even though the weather did not cooperate much, we learned it rarely does in Iceland, a nice stroll along the Saebraut is a must. There is both a walkway and cycling lane that runs the length of the bay in Reykjavik. Here you will find the Sun Voyager, a stainless-steel sculpture by Jón Gunnar Árnason, that mimics a old Viking sailing boat.
Saebraut – Patti – Reykjavik, Iceland
Saebraut – Erick – Reykjavik, Iceland
Saebraut – Reykjavik, Iceland
Saebraut – Reykjavik, Iceland
Saebraut – The Sun Voyager – Reykjavik, Iceland
Skolavorduholt
A short walk up Rainbow Street and the highest hill in Reykjavik is the Skolavorduholt, the place where you will find the Hallgrimskirkja Lutheran Church and the monument to Lief Eriksson.
Rainbow Street – Runic Shop and the Brekkuholt House – Reykjavik, Iceland
Rainbow Street – Reykjavik, Iceland
Rainbow Street – Reykjavik, Iceland
Hallgrimskirkja Church
The church is impressive and easily the largest church on the island. It has an impressive apse and organ and an almost clean, if not antiseptic appearance inside. The pews are built so that can be easily switched, so you can either face the altar for services, or the organ for performances.
Hallgrimkirkja – Main Entrance – Reykjavik, Iceland
Hallgrimkirkja – Apse and Altar – Reykjavik, Iceland
Hallgrimkirkja – Grand Organ – Reykjavik, Iceland
Lief Eriksson
The monument of Lief Eriksson which stands directly outside in front of the entrance, gives historical credit to this noble adventurer and discoverer of the North America. The monument was gifted to the island in 1930 by the United States of America.
The Austurvöllur area is where many of the municiple buildings are located, as well as the Tjörnin, or “The Pond”. This body of water is a favorite for the school children during lunch and you can often find them feeding the ducks which collect along the shore for an easy meal.
Prime Minister’s Office – Reykjavik, Iceland
Prime Minister’s Office – Reykjavik, Iceland
Tjarnarskóli ehf – Elementary School – Reykjavik, Iceland
Tjörnin – The Pond – Reykjavik, Iceland
Alþingishúsið – State Parliament Building – Reykjavik, Iceland
Apotek Hotel by Keahotels – Reykjavik, Iceland
Jon Sigurdsson Monument – Reykjavik, Iceland
Looking Seaward – Reykjavik, Iceland
Harbor – Reykjavik, Iceland
Harbor – Reykjavik, Iceland
The Old Harbor Boat Ramp – Reykjavik, Iceland
The Old Harbor Boat Ramp – Reykjavik, Iceland
The Unknown Bureaucrat – Reykjavik, Iceland
Restaurants
The Scandinavian Bistro
Our first evening we ate at the Scandinavian Bistro and thoroughly enjoyed it. Though it does not have a lot of seating inside, it is adequate and does not feel overly crowded. The food was a bit overpriced for what you got, but that’s true of most places in Reykjavik since they import a majority of their foodstuffs.
Scandinavian Bistro – My $38 Hamburger with Fries – Reykjavik, Iceland
Rossopomodoro
A continental chain and restaurant serving Italian cuisine can be found on the Laugevegur. A restaurant that is in many European cities and provides basic italian cuisine and pizza at fair prices. We ate here one evening due to its proximity to our hotel and because it was Italian food.
On a whim, since it was such a nice day out (clear sky, mid-70s), we decided to go to Sassi-Superga for a day trip. The last time we visited Sassi-Superga was in 2019, after we arrived in Turin from the States.
Getting There
From the center of town and a short walk to Piazza Vittorio Veneto we took the GTT #15 tram going toward Sassi. After waiting about 15 minutes, it arrived and we enjoyed a twenty minute ride up to around the Briaza stop on Corso Belgio. Here we ended up behind another tram that was having issues and subsequently was numbered #00, to indicate that it was no longer in use. Because of this, we had to get off the tram at the next stop and were told to take the GTT #68 bus that pulled up behind our tram.
We happily got on and tried to ignore the issue, until at the next stop the bus driver indicated that we had to get off his bus and get on another #68 bus that had pulled up behind us. Flaborghasted and flumexed we did complied, but not after we clearly showed our displeasure, however being Italian, he was totally nonplussed by the situation. Luckily, after another short 10 minute ride we arrived at our destination, still in time to catch the Cog or Inclined Train up to Superga hill.
Sassi-Superga
After your bus, or tram ride if you are so lucky, there is a short five minute walk to the train station. It is located on a rather confusing intersection on Corso Casale between SS10 and SC di Superga, for which there are about seven or eight crosswalks!
Basilica of Superga – Patti going back to Train Station – Turin, Italy
Stazione Sassi
If you use the GTT phone application for tickets, you would get the mistaken impression that your €1.90 commuter ticket, that was used on the tram and bus, should still apply (within the 90 minute time limit) to take the Inclined Railway up Superga Hill, it does not. Ticket vending machines are inside the railway and cafe building on-site, they may also be purchased from the conductor, but there may be an additional charge. The charge from the vending machine is €3 per person one way, so for two persons round-trip, that came to €12 total for us.
Sassi-Superga Inclined Railway – Tickets For Two – Turin, Italy
The train departs promptly and after about twenty to twenty-five minutes, you will arrive at Superga Station, just below the Basilica of Superga. The station has a cafe, so if you are in need of refreshment, now would be the time.
View of Turin – Sassi-Superga Station – Turin, Italy
View of Turin – Sassi-Superga Station – Turin, Italy
View of Turin – Basilica of Superga – Turin, Italy
Basilica of Superga
The basilica is still undergoing renovations after all these years and has scaffolding in and around the outside of the building. Most of this appears to be in place to protect visitors from falling debris. The exterior is starting to really look in need of major work, but they do appear to have the upper hand on the issue inside.
Basilica of Superga – Turin, Italy
Unfortunately, the little restaurant that used to be housed on the left hand side of the church no longer exists, there is only an entrance to the Tomb of the Savoy family. So our plans to eat there vanished as soon as we figured out that it had closed, most likely due to the pandemic.
Basilica of Superga – Dome and Altar – Turin, Italy
Basilica of Superga – Dome and Altar – Turin, Italy
Restaurants
However, all is not lost and a short walk down the hill toward on Sentiero 26 path near the Monument of Umberto I, is a nice little Trattoria that we visited for lunch.
Basilica of Superga – Monument of Umberto I – Turin, Italy
Conserva – Trattoria Superga
A short ten minute walk downhill on the trail from the monument is the Trattoria Superga. It is on a rather busy road, however we saw as many cyclists while sitting there as we did cars and other forms of transportation.
Trattoria di Superga – Outside – Baldissero Torinese, Turin, Italy
We can only say that the food was very good and typical for Piedmont and the area. The Tajarin and salads were both delicious, though a bit pricey. Our entire lunch with wine, water, bruschetta, pasta, coffee and digestive came to €77 for two, which we consider rather high, though not exorbitant.
Trattoria di Superga – Inside – Baldissero Torinese, Turin, Italy
Trattoria di Superga – Insalata Mista and Croccante de Melanzana su Crema Pomodori Confit – Baldissero Torinese, Turin, Italy
Trattoria di Superga – Croccante de Melanzana su Crema Pomodori Confit – Baldissero Torinese, Turin, Italy
Trattoria di Superga – Tajarin di Re Vittoria Emmanuelle II and Onion Soup Gratinata alla Piemontese – Baldissero Torinese, Turin, Italy
Reggia di Venaria Reale was a royal residence and palace to the northwest of Turin, Italy. It was one of more that a dozen residences of the Savoy family. It was abondoned after the Napoleonic Wars and later became a military post and barracks and subsequently slowly fell into disrepair and abandonment. After a major restoration, it finally opened to the public in 2007 as a musuem and tourist attraction.
La Venaria Reale – Map of Complex – Turin, Italy
Getting There
The easiest was to get there from Turin is to take one of the SFM trains from Porta Susa towards the Turin Airport. Many of these trains stop at Venaria Station and it only takes about fifteen to twenty minutes and costs about €3.50 per person. We often use the phone application and do not book a round-trip ticket, since you never know how long you might stay, especially if you are planning for lunch as well.
Porta Susa – Leaving for Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Train Station at Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Train Station at Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Military Monument – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Andrea Mensa – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Andrea Mensa – Turin, Italy
The Palace
The palace is actually in two pieces, the original Palace of Diana from the seventeenth century in white stucco with a white clock tower and the latter eighteenth century addition in raw brick with the Belvedere Tower, where you enter.
La Venaria Reale – Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Clock Tower, Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Castelmonte – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Noble Families, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Noble Families, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Museum, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Art Room, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Art Room, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Castle Diorama, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
The Grand Gallery
Probably the most striking room and the pinnacle of the visit, the Grand Gallery is part of the Palace of Diana and a core piece of the original palace.
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Saubaud Generations, Bedrooms, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
Turin At The Turn Of The Century
There is a nice collection of maps, dioramas and other works depicting Turin at the turn of the seventeenth century. Interesting from the perspective of present day Turin and what was lacking back in the day of the House of Savoy.
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Piazza San Carlo, Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
The Rooms Of Art
There is also a fine exhibit of art at the palace. Located through the entrance to the gardens, the entrance is in the back of the Palace of Diana.
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
The Stables
Juvarra Stables
The Juvarra Stables contain a collection of the royal family’s modes of transportation, from a river gondolla, to the royal coach and other broughams, all the way to childrens toy coach.
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
The wall is surrounded by a historical account of a trip up the River Po using the gondola from Venice to Turin.
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
Alfieri Stables
Today these just appear as a hallway depicting the transition from a palace in ruin to full restoration. Some of the photographs in the collection are strinking and it is well worth thoughful look and some consideration.
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
The Gardens
The gardens here include several, the most conspicuous one is the Flower Garden. But there is also several orchards and three distinct terraces that one can walk through and enjoy the well manicured estate.
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Pig Sculpture in wood, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Patti, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Reflecting Pool, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Gondola Pool – Turin, Italy
Church of Saint Hubert
One has to walk to the Church of Saint Hubert from within the complex near the stables, outside entry is not possible. All of the pews have been removed, only the artwork, frescoes and a high altar remain, everything else is gone.
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
Restaurants
Il Convito della Venaria
Just on the corners of the Piazza della Repubblica and Via Andrea Mensa is the ristorante Il Convito della Venaria. A fine place for lunch, though probably a bit pricier than some of the alternatives, though restaurants and cafes appear to get sparser and sparser as you walk back towards the train station, so word of warning. We had a simple lunch of Bruschetta and two different pasta dishes, Patti had Maccheroncino al Tochio with Eggplant, Zucchini and Olives in a red sauce and I had the Agnolottini del Plin Piemontese Style, both were delicious.
Il Convito della Venaria – Pasta with Olives and Squash – Turin, Italy
Il Convito della Venaria – Plin Piemontese – Turin, Italy
Bern was originally settled by Swabians[1]The Zähringen noble family from around Freiburg im Breisgau in the twelfth century and quickly died out within a century. from the lower parts of Germany, it is the fifth largest in Switzerland and was initially surrounded by the Aare river on three sides, with fortifications protecting it’s west side.
Marktgasse – Zytglogge – Bern, Switzerland
Käfigturm – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Zytglogge – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Bern Fresco – Bern, Switzerland
Getting There
Bern does not have a commercial airport, so you will either have use Zürich‘s or Geneva’s and then take a train. We had already started in Geneva, so taking one of the ICE trains from Geneva to Bern was automatic. However, in typical SBB[2]Schweizerische BundesBahnen or Swiss train fashion, it was halted before leaving the Lake Léman area and we had to find another train to continue our two hour journey, which then turned into a three hour trip[3]There have been few times when traveling by train in Switzerland was a normal affair. It is getting to be more like the Deutscher Bahn.
Bern Train Station – Main Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Platform – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Main Waiting Hall – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Main Waiting Hall – Bern, Switzerland
The City
The old medieval city of Bern is rather compact, due to it being confined by the Aare river. The main train station is on the west side of the city, so it is probably best to find a hotel close to it. We stayed at the Hotel Savoy, three blocks away from the train station.
Gerberngasse – Interesting House – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Rose Garden Hill and Paul Klee Center – Bern, Switzerland
Walking from the train station to the Nydeggbrücke, via the Marktgasse of Kramgasse, should not take more than a twenty-five to thirty minutes without stopping. The main shopping avenue is the Marktgasse, which is lined with many watch stores and most other modern shops you expect to see in city that is heavily traveled. See the restaurant section below for where to go for food.
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Anna Seiler Brunnen – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Porticos and Shops – Bern, Switzerland
Rooftops and Houses across the Aare river – Bern, Switzerland
Old house – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Wasserwerkgasse from bridge – Bern, Switzerland
Brunnen Or Fountains
The city has a lot of brunnen, or fountains in English, especially down the middle of the Marktgasse. Most of these have figures or other mythical forms, stylized perhaps from some historical figure.
There is also the Lischetti-Brunnen, also known as the Postgassbrunnen or Upper Postgassbrunnen, which was erected in 1820 next to the Staatskanzelei (State Chancellery) and is to be used by anyone who wishes to experience being a fountain.
Lischettibrunnen – Kronenbrunner or Upper Postgass Fountain – Bern, Switzerland
Hotel Savoy
A fairly good hotel on the Kramgasse, sharing an entrance with another store. We found it reasonably priced for a Swiss hotel and central for visiting the city. The breakfast is rather expensive, as it is in most Swiss hotels, at 30CHF per person. We found this unreasonable and ventured out each morning to stop at one of the many Konditoreien, or pastry shops, in the neighborhood. This option ran around 9-10CHF per person, but was only coffee and a pastry, which for use was sufficient.
Hotel Savoy – Main Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedrals And Churches
A few religious buildings of note in Bern are the Cathedral of Bern and the Church of Saint Peter and Paul.
Cathedral Of Bern
Cathedral of Bern – Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Nave and Alter – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – History of Tower – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Houses of Patrons – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Intricate Facade over Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Fountain – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Backside – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Intricate Facade over Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Church Of Saint Peter And Paul
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Entrance, Rathausgasse – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Rose Window – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Nave and Altar – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Organ – Bern, Switzerland
Bridges And The Aare River
There are two central bridges that span the Aare at the tip of the city. The Untertorbrücke, the first one to be built and is shown on maps of the city from the seventeenth century, and the Nydeggbrücke, which carries the tram and modern vehicular traffic.
Untertorbrücke – Nydeggbrücke over the Aare – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – The Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – Patti and the Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – Patti and the Aare River, Rose Garden on the hill – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke and the Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Bären Park
On one end of the Nydeggbrücke is the Bärenpark, or Bear Park. As early as the beginning of the sixteenth century the city has been known to have a Bärengraben, or Bear Pit, of some type or another. Ostensibly the city becoming eponymously named for the same in 1191 when the Duke of Zähringen killed a bear first on one of his many famous hunts. But seriously, this is just conjecture and there is more evidence that it was from a pre-existing toponym of Celtic origin, possibly berna, meaning cleft.
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Einsteinhaus
On Marktgasse 49, visitors will find the Einsteinhaus, or the apartment that Albert Einstein lived in during his publication of his ground breaking theories of 1905, including his Special Theory of Relativity.
Kramgasse 49 – Einstein House – Bern, Switzerland
Kramgasse 49 – Einstein House – Bern, Switzerland
The Rosengarden Bern
One top of the hill on the other side of the Aare river is the park containing the Rose Garden, or Rosengarden. Unfortunately for us, the roses were not in bloom in May, so we were unable to enjoy their colors. However, there were other flowers, trees and bushes to be enjoyed in the park.
Rose Garden – Patti on walkway up to garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – Patti and the garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – The garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – The garden – Bern, Switzerland
It is here, that Albert Einstein probably contemplated many of the problems around his Theory of Relativity, and a bench here so commemorates his efforts.
Rose Garden – Einstein bench and overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
From this vantage point you get a very good view of the old Medieval city of Bern, with its many churches, bridges and old style houses.
Rose Garden – Overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – Erick and overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
Restaurants
The Bärenplatz and Waisenhausplatz are central areas for restaurants and have a good mix of local Swiss restaurants to Italian and other cuisines.
Bärenplatz – Market on Waisenhausplatz – Bern, Switzerland
Santa Lucia Ristorante
Another Italian restaurant which has a very active lunch crowd. Here you can enjoy reasonable prices and a wide selection of Italian dishes, including pizza. Our first evening here we enjoyed the soup and spaghetti.
Santa Lucia Ristorante – Minestrone Soup – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Spaghetti Bolognese – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Spaghetti and Tomatoes – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Banana Split – Bern, Switzerland
The second time we visited was for lunch, then I ordered a pizza, which was very good and typical of the Neapolitan style from Naples. The house wine is also very pleasant.
Santa Lucia Ristorante – Pizza Margherita – Bern, Switzerland
Ristorante Luce
On the corner of Zeughausgasse and Waghausegasse is the Italian restaurant of Ristorante Luce. If you are looking for higher end Italian food, look no further. The service here is also exceptional, though the seating was a bit cramped.
Ristorante Luce – Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Ristorante Luce – Patti with her Soup – Bern, Switzerland
Here they serve very good Italian specialties and have an excellent wine list. Here you can find Strozzapreti, or Priest Strangler/Choker Pasta with Mozzarella. A rather large and somewhat gummy pasta with an very interesting history.
Ristorante Luce – Strozzapreti Pasta with Buffalo Mozzarella – Bern, Switzerland
I can specifically attest to spending 150CHF for a 375ml bottle of Ornellaia 2019. A DOC wine from Italy with extremely high ratings which regularly fetches $250-$800 a bottle, a truly amazing wine. So if you are a true wine lover, your pallet might enjoy this restaurant.
Ristorante Luce – Ornellaia Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019 – Bern, Switzerland
