Tag: church

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Our Fateful Trip To Greece – Act I

Athens – Superstitious Beginnings

This blog article is split into three separate acts. Not necessarily in homage to the Greek tradition of plays, but more that our trip turned out to be more of a Greek tragedy. A milder version of one of course, but one nonetheless.

We do not know if it’s the land of bad karma, bad juju or what, but for the first time in our long lineage of trips, almost everything that could go wrong did. That is not to say, there is something wrong with Greece as a whole, it could just be us (and probably is), or we just may happened to have had a bad sequence of events occur. However, always being guided by the premise that bad luck runs in threes, we are now beginning to think that is just an arbitrary number, it appears it can also be all sixes and sevens.

To add some preamble here, there were six of us traveling from three different parts of the globe. My wife and I from Italy, Ericka and Gabriel (Gabi) from Germany and our two sons, Dana and Tristan, from the United States.

Flight from Milan Malpensa to Athens

The first sign there would be any trouble was a line of storms that developed the day of travel and stalled along the east coast. Since they were flying into JFK, both of my sons had their flights canceled. They were able to get booked again for the next day, after having wasted their entire Friday sitting in an airport or on an airplane. Luckily, the new logistics worked and they made it to Athens a day late and one vacation day less, but with all of their luggage.

Once altogether, we learned that our son Dana and our son-in-law Gabi had both gotten colds, so right away we were thinking of the possibility of Covid. Luckily, that was not the case either, they were just feeling the effects of common colds brought on by loosening restrictions.

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In any event, we pressed on with our vacation. The next day, upon trying to enter a museum, we quickly discovered that I had purchased a five day pass for everyone, which of course did not start until our last full day in Athens. Not sure how I did that, but I just chalked it up to old age and moved on. Luckily, nothing else happened to us the next few day in Athens.

Athens – The City

The modern part of Athens is typical city for a city of central Europe, containing a core with upscale shopping surrounded by environs of more modest means and services. In some places it looks like it is in desperate need of planning and repairs. But for the most part things appear to work quite well by Greek standards.

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No visit to Athens complete without seeing the changing of the guard at the National Memorial of the Unknown Soldier.

Lycabettus Hill

Located northeast of the city center is the hill of Lycabettus, atop which sits the Church of Saint George. About a thirty minute walk from the Monument of the Unknown Soldier you can reach the cable car at Lykavittós and for a modest sum, a ride to the top.

Athens Panorama

The views are pretty good from this vantage point, so you will want to pick a clear day. It is a very good place for a panoramic photograph of Athens.

You can also visit the church and then have a relaxing drink at one of the many bars on this hilltop.

The Acropolis

The Acropolis is a historic site with few equals. Perched atop a hill overlooking the rest of Athens, this great structure must have been magnificent in its day. Entering through the Beulé Gate, you ascend the Propylaea with the Temple of Athena Nike to your right.

Temple of Athena Nike

The temple stands to the right of the entrance, almost as a sentinel to this very religious place. Situated to the right of the Propylaea, it is the most fully iconic temple in the Acropolis. Unfortunately what we see today is a reconstruction of what it must have looked like before the Turks destroyed the temple in 1686.

The Parthenon

Under a constant state of preservation, repairs and reconstruction the Parthenon is well signed and for the most part well protected from the tourists. It is an impressive structure, when placed behind the backdrop of history, being built more than 2500 years ago.

There are a few additional points of interest below the Acropolis, but no less important.

The Erechtheion

My favorite is the Erechtheion and the Porch of the Maidens, also know as the Caryatid Porch. It is one of the only, if not few, buildings in the Acropolis that does not have a symmetrical architecture. It is theorized this either had to do with the numerous cults that built the structure, or the uneven ground it was built on, making a classic Greek structure impossible.

From the southeast side the asymmetry is easily seen, with the Porch of the Maidens displaying its most iconic feature.

The Erechtheion – Porch of Maidens – Southeast View

The Agora

Not far from the slopes of the Acropolis is the Agora, or the central meeting place for all ancient Athenians. Primarily of religious significance, but also used for business, politics and artisans. The main street was called the Panathenaic Way, which ran through the Agora to the main gate of Athens.

Stoa of Attalos

The Stoa of Attalos was central to the Agora and primarily used as a place to conduct business. Stoae are buildings constructed with a portico, as a defense against the sun and weather. It was reconstructed in the 1950s, using many of the original pieces, especially on the north side of the building, but reinforced in the basement area in order to be properly repurposed the building as a museum. Here is where the trades people, artisans and shop keepers could sell their wares and conduct business.

The Stoa of Attalos – The Facade

The portico serves as an outdoor museum, while the upstairs serves that same purpose, but provides that more indoor feeling. Many of the pieces are statues and busts of high ranking individuals in ancient Greek society.

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The Temple of Hephaestus

Probably the most well preserved structure on the grounds of the Agora, even parts of the roof are still intact, is the Temple of Hephaestus. Considering its age and that fact that it was never destroyed during a war or plundered for building materials, it stands nimbly on the grounds of the Agora as a testament to Greek architecture.

Grounds of the Agora – The Temple of Hephaestus

Walking around the structure one can easily take photographs of its interior and columns.

The Odeon of Agrippa

Unfortunately not much of the Odeon of Agrippa structure still exists, with the exception of its magnificent columns. Built in relief, the four columns depicted giants and tritons, all of which are heavily damaged. Initially designed and built as a hall to hold performances in, its structure was not designed like other buildings to endure the ages. It fell into ruin fairly quickly and was rebuilt at some point in the second century and repurposed later as a lecture hall, only to be destroyed by a Herulian raid in 267 CE.

Statues at the entrance to the Odeon and Agrippa

Restaurants

As with any large European city restaurants abound in Athens and it offers a wide range of cuisines and options for anyone’s appetite. With some proper planning and reservations you should have no problem enjoying Greek dining during your vacation. Failure to do so will in most cases result in long wait times and exploring other options.

The Arcadia

We ate lunch at the Arcadia and enjoyed a very nice meal after a morning of exploring Athens.

Maiandros

Reservations are a must for this restaurant. The Maiandros Restaurant gets high marks for excellent traditional Greek cuisine and price. If you want to take advantage of its fine cooking and still have money left in your pocket, look no further than this restaurant. I would suggest ordering the Stifado, if you are meat lover (which I am not, but how could I resist), you will not be disappointed.

PalioTetradio

Perched atop a long staircase on the slopes of the Acropolis sits the Palio Tetradio. This little alley and staircase is packed with restaurants and is more of a tourist attraction and known for its ambiance, than its food and service.

However, they do have live music and since several of the other restaurants have their own musicians, it can feel like dueling musical talents as some points during your dinner.

The Palio Tetradio Restaurant – Musicians

Wines

The following wines we enjoyed while dining in Athens. You don’t necessarily have to purchase a very expensive wine, most house wine is completely drinkable and satisfying.

A Map of Athens

A Map Of Athens
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Angrogna, Italy – A Most Secret Little Chapel

Angrogna – A Waldensian Refuge

The view of Torre Pellice from Agrogna

A short drive, just outside Torre Pellice, is the small commune of Angrogna. Situated high up on the hill. Overlooking Torre Pellice, Angrogna commands a very nice view of the valley floor and hides a local secret in the form of a tiny underground chapel by a mostly unknown religious sect.

The Waldensians

The Waldensians were and are a pre-reformation sect that was extremely persecuted by the Roman Catholic Church as heretical. Therefore, they had to take their religious practices in many places underground, in order to escape discrimination, capture, torture and in many cases death. In Angrogna you will find one such hide out, a small cave on a mountainside used as a chapel. Here members would secretly meet in order to carry out their many religious practices without the notice of the church or local onlookers.

The Geology Close To The Waldensian Chapel – Craggy And Full Of Boulders

The Waldensian Chapel

The cave is a poor collection of boulders left by the ice age that apparently produced a cave structure suitable enough for such practices. It is difficult to find, if they were not signs and an entrance stairway to its opening. Even then, the entrance is wet, a very tight fit for most present individuals, and thus requires a degree climbing to actually reach the inner chamber.

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The inner chamber is a small, wet and very dark room about five by ten meters. It includes a small makeshift altar, but nothing else. In its day,  it must have been something to experience during a mass.

The School  Of Odin-Bertot

Very close by and less than a few hundred meter walk from the hidden chapel, is the School of Odin-Bertot.

Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot – Outside View of the School Room Entrance

Reminiscent of one room school  houses in many other rural areas, this one specifically served the mountain people of the area. Since the above link explains all, a few more photographs of the interior and the museum are all that’s in order at this point.

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How To Get There

There are several ways to get there, either via the School of Odin, or by the parking area further away. Since maps are worth a thousands words, here are two that you will find once there, but they also show the overall area so you can use this with what ever map, app or device you have to cross reference your way there.

Directions

Between Torre Pellice and Luserna San Giovanni you should find road 161. At the traffic circle, take the road towards Angrogna. You should also see signs for the Guieiza d’la Tana, the Chabas and the Vaccera. Keep following road to the main town square, then continue for about two kilometers and you will arrive in the hamlet of Serre. Turn right, you should see the beginning of the path and the signs “Chanforan” and “Odin”. Walk the path, following the sign for Ghieisa D’La Tana. You will eventually come to a wooden railing with the words Entrata on it, walk down the steps, you have arrived at the temple.

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Sant Ambrogio, Turin – Sacra di San Michele

A Sacred Vertical Pilgrimage

Panorama before church at end of trail

For those wanting and willing to see the Sacra di San Michele and experience this great church and its views, one must hike the three or so kilometers and one kilometer ascent in order to really enjoy what the builders had accomplished here. Not only is it a feat of Middle-Ages engineering and stubbornness, its shear existence defies rationality, and so may I add hiking up to it. Well maybe not exactly, but you should be prepared. We saw many individuals when we were descending wearing the wrong type of shoes, etc. More on that later.

Sant’ Ambrogio – Getting There

A thirty three minute train ride from Turin’s train station Porta Nuova will get you to Sant’ Ambrogio and the beginning of your climb. Let me add, before we begin, that you may drive up to the church; but then you would be among the majority of people there and just mere tourists.

The train station – San Ambrogio

The train station is spartan and leaves you off on track one to enter this small town or hamlet directly. Returning you will have to find the stairwell to the right of the train station and walk under the tracks.

We arrived the day after Easter Sunday, or as the remembrance in Italy has it for Roman Catholics, Pasquetta [1]Also called, Lunedì dell’ Angelo, which is meant to remember the women of the sepulcher, including Mary Magdalene, who were comforted by an angel when they returned to Jesus’ tomb and found it … Continue reading The town was more or less empty, so our ideas about a quick climb up and back and an early lunch soon vanished.

On the way up, the rooftops of the town – Sant Ambrogio

The walk through the town was short and without incident, in fact, we were mostly accompanied by the individuals who left the train with us, residents of the town having already left for the long weekend or enjoying amenities inside and their extra day off.

Parco Naturale Orsiera – Sentiero Trail 502

Using the Sentiero Trail 502, or TOS 502, we quickly left the town and started our ascent up the most north-eastern mountain or hill of the Parco Naturale Orsiera. An almost one kilometer ascent for three kilometers with slopes ranging in steepness of three to twenty percent, and I would conjecture most were in the double digits.

This 3 km rises 1000 meters and takes about 1 and a half to 2 hours to hike – Trail Map

The trail was for the most part cobbled with round and larger stones, some which have a remarkable green color, are shiny and very slippery. Proper shoes are important, though it is possible to navigate the trail with tennis shoes or sneakers.

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Upon exiting the trail at a collection of houses, and an interim point in the hike, you will find a large commemorative stone.

Commemoration Wheel 2000 – Sentiero Trail 502

Then you will make a hairpin turn and look up, only to see that your hike up is STILL NOT OVER!

Still a long way up to go – Sentiero Trail 502

Checking the signs indicate approximately another kilometer to hike, which took us about twenty minutes.

Trail Sign, another .8 km to go – Sentiero Trail 502

After the last more modest climb you will walk onto a road, where all the other tourists are walking into from the parking lot. The attraction has a large sign explaining the layout of the church and its grounds.

Sign at entry to Sacra di San Michele

Sacra di San Michele

Once near the church of Sacra di San Michele, the magnificent views are apparent. With its perch high on a rocky crag, the church has a commanding view of the valley below.

Panorama before church at end of trail

Walking up to the church you will find a small building to the right that sells postcards, other tourist paraphernalia and entrance tickets. Once purchased, a turnstile to the left has a QR code reader that will let you enter, then you must start climbing stairs, an unwelcome sign after our long journey.

Tickets for Two – Sacra di San Michele – Sant Ambrogio

The remainder of our visit consisted of just enjoying the church and the beautiful views. My wife chose this day because the weather promised to be wonderful, we were not disappointed, it was sunny and in the low 60°s Fahrenheit, perfect for hiking.

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Leaving we took our last look up at the great church and descended along the more difficult trail, due to its increase in steepness, it promised to cut some time off our descent, which it did.

Going down is a bit more treacherous and only 2.5 km, but still takes about 1 and a half hours to hike – Trail Map

However, the first part of this trail is VERY steep and not for anyone ill-prepared or wearing the wrong hiking apparel, so caution! We were actually having second thoughts until we realized it was more difficult to go back up, then to press on and continue downward.

A view of the church descending – Sacra di San Michele

We arrived back in Sant’ Ambrogio almost five hours later, hungry and fairly tired from our experience. Once on the train, we relaxed and started to compare which part of our legs hurt more. However, we were both happy we were able to meet our sacred vertical pilgrimage with a great sense of accomplishment. It was our first big hike of the season, hopefully not our last and if anyone is thinking of doing this or a similar hike, keep the following in mind, we will next time.

    • Prepare for your hike, research the route and understand how technical it is
    • Bring a water bottle, the trail has two or three places to refill, this is especially important
    • Bring lunch or something to eat, there is nothing above except some vending by the ticket counter, but do not count on that
    • Wear the correct clothing (light and layered) and shoes, hiking shoes would be preferred but thick soled tennis shoes or sneakers will do
    • Pace yourself, unless you are young be mindful of your body and do not over-exert, you do not want to get into medical trouble on that trail, it will take some time for them to get to you
    • Go in good weather, unless it’s your intent as an experienced hikers not to
    • And last but not least.., enjoy yourself, there are amazing things to see and hear on the trail, the flowers and birds are in abundance.

References

References
↑1 Also called, Lunedì dell’ Angelo, which is meant to remember the women of the sepulcher, including Mary Magdalene, who were comforted by an angel when they returned to Jesus’ tomb and found it empty.
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Naples, Italy – Cloister Anyone?

There are a few cloisters in Naples worth visiting, if you have the time and interest. Since it was at the end of our trip and we were lacking time, we chose the Cloister of Santa Chiara to visit, which sits right in the middle of the Historic Center and not far from all of the shopping, which we were interested in doing as well.

Cloister – Tickets For Two

Chiostro di Santa Chiara

The cloister is behind a large church which suffered greatly during the allied bombings of Naples in the 1940s. Apparently the church took most of the damaged and the cloister was left, more of less, intact for us to enjoy today.

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Salerno, Italy – Tyrrhenian Jewel

Waterfront – Salerno, Italy

Needing to get out of Naples, if only for a day, we took the train south to Salerno in discovery of yet another ancient city along the Italian Mediterranean Sea. A short train ride of only a half an hour puts you there, three blocks in from from its coastal port and jetties that border the bright blue Tyrrhenian Sea.

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We spent a leisurely Monday walking the streets of this nicely kept secret. It is definitely not a tourist destination and you will see few if any here, those preferring Capri, Almalfi Coast and other must-see places on someone else’s list.

Benedictine Aqueducts

The city has one of the most impressive examples of the architecture of the Ogival Arch, which in the ninth century was innovative and rare. It was so uncommon, that superstition around the arches and their use built up over the years, to the point where the town’s people were convinced it was the work of the devil, or at the very least, demons from hell. In any case, the aqueducts were built by and supplied water to the local Benedictine Monastery, and later to a convent in Piantanova.

The Basilica of Salerno is not far from the aqueducts and the Benedictine Monastery. Its most striking feature is the tower, which was built in the Arab-Norman style. The palazzo inside contains a small fountain and its archways are reminiscent of the Florentine style.

A quintessential thing to do, is to walk along Salerno’s Lungomare Trieste and enjoy the beautiful weather and seaside. This exceptional boardwalk continues straight for about five miles and has numerous places to sit and relax among the beautiful palm trees that were planted there long ago.

Restaurants

Taverna Santa Maria De Domno

Perhaps one of the best places I have ever eaten. The Pasta Genovese here is absolutely to die for, I have found none better in Naples and the surrounding area, and I have tried many. The wine list is also very good and you will have no problem selecting a delicious local varietal that grows on the slopes of Vesuvius for your gastronomic pleasure.

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Naples, Italy – No Bodies Here

Outside the walls of Naples are the catacombs, the ancient burial grounds for the old Neapolis population. Neapolis is the ancient greek name for the city, which eventually morphed into Napoli, or Naples.

There are four known catacombs outside the city, two can be visited, the Catacombs of San Gennaro and the Catacombs of San Gaudioso. However, once you enter you quickly discover, that with some minor exceptions, there are no bodies here. In the former case they were exhumed by the French back in the 1700s and  repatriated, in the latter they were moved to one of the other catacombs that currently cannot be visited.

Catacombs of San Gennaro

About a mile from the old historic district off the Corso Amedeo di Savoia are the Catacombs of San Gennaro.  The largest and least morbid of the two, this catacomb has an expansive underground and very interesting history.  Since a guided tour is the only option possible, you learn all the details of the historical past of this catacomb, and some of the more perculiar fact (if you are willing to ask, e.g. where did all the bodies go – back to France).  Since all catacombs, more or less look the same, here is a slide show.

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Catacombs of San Gaudioso

Along the same road, about a fifteen minute walk back toward the city center, are the catacombs of San Gaudioso. These are underneath the Basilica di Santa Maria della Sanità and its entrance is actually in the Basilica. This tour actually contains skeletons, bones and sarcophagi buried in the walls, plastered over with their skulls sticking out and broken off (see show for examples).

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Naples, Italy – A Better Feel

Naples and Vesuvius from Sant Elmo

After a few days traveling through the city we are beginning to get a better feel for this vibrant town. Divided into quarters or sections, but not along any obvious lines, there is reason to question where exactly you are at any given time. But one thing is for sure, you will find some uniqueness between them all. This is why its so important on spending some time in a large city such as Naples, which has over two million residents. Otherwise, there is no real way to get the actual vibe or quidditas of a place. I for one think it’s a great city and the Neapolitans are fantastic people.

After a few days traveling through the city we are beginning to get a better feel for this vibrant town. Divided into quarters or sections, but not along any obvious lines, there is reason to question at any given time where exactly your are, but one thing is for sure you will find some uniqueness. This is why its so important on spending some time in a large city such as Naples, which has over two million residents. Otherwise, there is no real way to get the actual vibe or quidditas of a place.

The real hard core vibe of Naples is the juxtaposition of the Centro Storico, or the historic center – with its throngs of tourists, against the backdrop and grittiness of The Spanish Quarter, the pandemonium of San Frenando, Porto and Mercato; and the quiet calm of Vomero and Chiaia. If you are looking for a city with stark contrasts, Naples is the city for you.

Naples – The Spanish Quarter

The Spanish Quarter

The Spanish Quarter obtained its name from the garrison of Spanish that were housed here and given the job to keep order throughout the city. It is entirely made up of narrow streets, passages, stairs and back alleyways that knit this complex community together. Directly alongside the Historic Center on one side and the hill of Vomero, it is quite self contained and apparently, from the looks of things, not very open to change, since from the looks of things nothing apparently has since they arrived.

With dirt and filth comes disease. As the photograph attests to a dramatic outbreak of cholera that swept through this part of the city in the 1800s, leaving behind devastation and death. Even today it is still actively adorned with flowers and other bits of memorabilia for protection, partly due to faith and partly due to superstition. Though all educated people know, it is easily combated with cleanliness and hygiene.

Centro Storico

The old part of the city has the most historical artifacts, churches and other points of interest. It is infested with tourists though, so planning is key. It is best to keep an eye on the number of cruise ships at dock (at any time there can be up to five very large ships docked) and then take your chances that you will have a minimal crowd.

Naples – Statue del Dio Nilo – San Lorenzo

As can be imagined there are a myriad of shops, cafes and restaurants in this area, which is comprised of the San Lorenzo Quarter. It is world famous for its Christmas Alley of Armeno, which is officially known as via San Gregorio Armeno.

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Armeno – Naples Christmas Alley

Deep in the heart of the historic center is a street that is known as Christmas Alley. It does not pay to explain, except through pictures.

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Vomero

Located on the hill adjacent to Chiaia and the Spanish Quarter is Vomero. Easily reached by taking one of the Funicular Trains from one of three places, Funicular Park in Chiaia, Augusteo in San Ferdinando or Montesanto in the Spanish Quarter. For a reasonable 1.10€ you can ascend to Vomero to visit the sights that it has to offer and enjoy its fine restaurants.

Castle Sant Elmo

In Vomero the Castle of Sant Elmo stands ever watchful over Naples. Known initially as Belforte, it was built sometime in the thirteenth century.

The castle is a sprawling edifice atop the hill commanding a view of all of Naples, including the hills behind it and the entire Gulf of Naples. Fitted previously with large guns, it must have been a formidable deterrent at one time. Visitors can walk the entirety of its parapets with all of its amazing views of the city, the gulf and surrounding islands.

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Cloister di San Martino

Just below the Castle of Sant Elmo sits the monastery and cloister of San Martino. Converted into a museum, it too commands a view of the Gulf of Naples.

The museum has a selection of old royal carriages and artifacts from the late Renaissance. From old frescoes, paintings and church memorabilia it houses many religious antiquities from famous Napoletano church leaders. Then there are the creches of Christ’s birth, which are extremely detailed and draw your attention to every little thing that each one of the small characters is modeled to portray.

Restaurants

Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria

One of the place to go apparently in Naples is Gino e Toto Sorbillo’s Pizzeria. Located on via dei Tribunali it gathers a crowd early, so getting there a half an hour or so ahead of time would reduce your wait. During normal times it may even be wiser to queue up earlier. We happen to go during a day when only one cruise ship arrived and got there twenty minutes early and we were about fourth in line. The place is rather large, but by the time we were finished people were waiting outside for some time.

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The pizza is simple but amazing. Having never eaten here before, we ordered the recommended Pizza Margherita. With a half bottle of their own red wine and some water we were quite full and happy when we left.

Armando Scartuchio

Armando Scartuchio is a chain of cafes with a rich history and several stores sprinkled throughout the city and a must place to stop. Though we only stopped at one, it must hold mostly true that any pastries made by this company taste more a less the same, no matter where you eat them. We found ours just outside the Spanish Quarter in Montecalvario.

While staying in Naples it is an absolute necessity to stop each day around eleven o’clock or so to have coffee and a bite to eat. This is an excellent place to recharge your morning battery. Still early enough to order two Cappuccino and some very good baked goods, an excuse to drink, eat and further discuss the plans of the day. We ordered a few very interest things we thought we just had to taste.

TrattoriaMalinconico

Situated well out of the way is Trattoria Malinconico. A place not often, if ever, visited by tourists, so they were quite interested and curious when we stopped for lunch.

For starters, this Trattoria is in Vomero, which is on top of the hill. Therefore you must either take one of the three funiculars to get there or climb a very large and then still walk a kilometer or so before reaching it. Even then, it is kind of hidden around the corner from the well established market street on the end of a dead end street in a sort of strip mall.

In any case, the food is excellent and home cooked. Our interest was is getting the most authentic tasting Beef Genovese that we could find and our searches ended us up at this small but excellent establishment. What we found on the menu was actually that, but it was called Pasta Genovese with Meat, also known as Genovese Completa. It didn’t matter, for 8€ we ordered it with a mezzo litro of red wine and ate our hearts out.

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Sinaia, Romania – Star Of The Prahova Valley

Another small town quaintly tucked under the ever watchful eye of Mount Furnica of the Bucegi Range is Sinaia. Out of sight of N60 and tucked away under this hill is a real star town, replete with many large hotels and even a casino for anyone wishing to try their luck in a Romanian tourist location.

Sinaia – Peleş Castle – At the foot of the Bucegi Range – 19th of September, 2021

On the 19th of September we ventured down to this town which sits just below Buşteni, in order to enjoy lunch, the town and to visit Castle Peleş.

Sinaia – The Town

This town is much like Buşteni, aside from the fact that it appears to have more money and is well maintained; no doubt due to the large hotels and the casino that are part of it. It lies on the same strip of N60 which runs north to south its neighbor to the north.

The Prahova River runs alongside the town, as well as a line of the Romanian Railroad; but unlike Buşteni, the railroad does not interfere with this town at all. Traffic however can still be problematic at times, just because of the nature of N60 being the only straight road in these parts, especially during rush hour times. The good news though is, once off of N60, traffic in and through the town seems well controlled by a series of traffic circles and other parallel streets. While we were there they were having an outside market, which apparently drew a lot of locals.

Castle Peles

The Castle Peleş is more or less renovated and is a government run venue hosting tours, both self-pacing and private. It is rather large and consists of many separate rooms that are rather elaborate, including an arms room, study, reception, large dining hall, library and a grand hall that has a most unique wooden spiral staircase with an electrically operated roof that opens fully (though no proof or demonstrations were offered nor provided).  

Sinaia – Castle Peleş – Tickets For Two – 19th of September, 2021

The castle was built sometime between 1873 and 1914, based on the architects Wilhelm Doderer and Johannes Schultz, both of which were German. The structure was later modernized by the Czech architect Karel Liman.  And though some on the internet would suggest or assert it has anything to do with Count Dracula (Vlad the Impaler), it does NOT.  That sole claim belongs to Bran Castle to the west.

The first inauguration of the building occurred in 1883 and introduced central heating to Romania, as well as an electric system that operated the large glass roof enclosure. It also had a vacuum cleaner, air ducts for heating and an electric elevator.

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The castle is the former summer residence of King Carole I and Queen Elisabeth. It was used as part of the Romanian National Dynasty and often used for important political and other European cultural decisions at the turn of the century. It incorporates a synthesis of Neo-Renaissance (both German and Italian), Neo-Baroque, Rococo as well as French and Oriental styles.

The Monastery

On the way down from Castle Peleş is the Sinaia Monastery. It consists of three parts, the monastery proper (a set of buildings that surround the old chapel), the old chapel or church and the great church.

The original monastery was built in the late 1600s by Mihail Cantacuzino. Construction was due in part by a promise he made to the monks of Saint Anne and Nicholas, which lived at the time in nearby hermitages. He subsequently gave it the name, The Dormition of the Holy Virgin Mary, in memory of a pilgrimage he had taken at one time to the Holy Land.

It is quite unique in Romania since it forms a Latin cross, unlike the more traditional Orthodox styles, giving it the origins of the later Walachian and Brancoveanu styles. The churches profiles are very different from other forms in Romania since they replaced the traditional cornices with red brick dents; the facade frames are rectangular and painted with frescos, as well as the absence of the traditional belt.

The old chapel was burned in 1791 during the Russian-Austrian-Turkish war and restored somewhat in 1795 by the same painters who had decorated the chapel. The paintings on the porch are all original and present scenes from the life of Saint Catherine (the protector of the monastery), Saint George (protector of soldiers and Moldavia) and Saint Demetrios (protector of Walachia). Important scenes from both Heaven and Hell frame the entrance to the church.

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The entrance represents Moses and his brother Aaron and are built in carved stone. The nave of the church depicts the Ascension and Transfiguration, related to the secret nature of praying rightly to the divine or also known as hesychasm.

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Bacharach, Germany – Model Medieval Town

On a bend of the Rhine River above Mainz sits the small town of Bacharach. Nestled among the varied and many castles of the west bank, its row of buildings and high walls demonstrate historically how important this part of the Rhine was in the Middle Ages.

Bacharach – Above Burg Stahleck – August 2021

The walls of the Rhine River valley provide an ample perch for the many castles and fortresses that were built to protect the towns along its banks. The Stahleck Castle sits above this small town and extends it length of walls, turrets and towers around the small community like a net from above. The curtain of walls is formidable in both height and width, being its strongest at river level, where perhaps most of the attacks (if any) would probably originate.

The Town

There is no real center of town, since it is more of a stretch of houses and building along the Rhine. Points of interest include the main street called Mainzerstraße, where all of the shops are located, Blücherstraße which starts at Saint Peter’s church and continues up through the Steeger Tor, a smaller street called the Langestraße which parallels the main street and the beautiful park along the banks of the Rhine.

A main attraction here is the beautifully preserved Altes Haus. It is here where Robert Stolz wrote his operetta Wenn die kleinen Veilchen blühen, or “When the little violets bloom”, which was eventually performed in the Haag in 1932. Aside from that, it is an excellent example of Half-Timber, or Fachwerk framing.

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The hillsides in this area are dominated by vineyards, the area being a major wine producer for Germany. There are many Vintners here and many, if not all, sell directly to the public. Unfortunately after taking so long to eat, we were not predisposed to try and visit any of them.

Restaurants

There are several restaurants in town to choose from, all of which appear to serve a mixture of traditional German fare and some Mediterranean. It is probably preferable to find something on one of the side streets, since traffic is still allowed through the main thoroughfare.

Restaurant Burg Stahleck

We choose this restaurant based on its menu and amount of outside seating. Plus we were just lucky to get the last table with its advantage at being in a very strategic corner, in order to view the goings on in town.

Bacharach is indeed a great place to spend a day or afternoon. The combination of the town, the banks of the Rhine and Castle above it provide more than enough to do for anyone in the area looking for a day trip.

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Bolzano – Modern Tyrol

The city of Bolzano, or Bozen, is a very modern city, fully equipped with everything that a modern person would want, trendy shopping, restaurants, very good transportation facilities and some very good hotels with all the creature comforts. It is more or less in the heart of South Tyrol.

Piazza Walther

The Tickets

Bozen/Bolzano offers a very good ticket package for travel and entry into many museum, castles and other venues in the surrounding area. The tickets are also good for the cable car and many trains, including the train that runs to Meran/Merano. The three day pass cost €30 at the time of this writing, but you will find that after a few cable car rides and museums, it has already paid for itself.

Südtirol AltoAdige MuseoMobile – Tickets For Two

The City

A mixture of the modern and the past, they have cleverly sculpted modern buildings, museums and stores into the fabric of past buildings. Of course, keeping in mind the past at all times, even the old hotels protect frescoes and other art when renovating, this is even evident outside.

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The Laurin Hotel

Our hotel stay was at the Laurin, a beautiful four star hotel near the center of the city. It has all of the comforts of home and more.

The Hotel Laurin

The rooms are spacious and full of amenities, including slippers and spa robes. So if you are looking for a place in Bolzano to pamper you, this hotel should be on your list.

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The Franciscan Monastery

The monastery is in very good condition with a portico that has a painted ceiling and several frescoes that depict the establishment of the Franciscan church.

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The Franciscan Story

The following frescoes can be found in the church and offer a pedagogical study of the monastery and its teachings.

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Bolzano Cathedral

This cathedral is known for its colorful roof and it does have one with a very distinctive pattern.

Restaurants

La Torcia

Very good Italian pizza and food for a very good price. They have the traditional wood fired pizza oven and very good wine from the tap.

Ristorante La Torcia

As you can see below the pizza looks amazing and it was delicious as well. The desserts, like most desserts in Tyrol, are amazing.

Der Weisser Rössl

A Tyrolean restaurant offering all of the local special. It is actually rather large inside and probably can handle hundreds of locals and tourists at a time. However, while we were here they hardly filled the back garden area and a few tables inside, a sad sign of the times.

Weisser Roessl

The food however is actually quite good. I particularly enjoyed the Hungarian Gulash soup.

The Franziskaner Stuben

We ate at this restaurant for lunch and enjoyed it thoroughly. Try the Gnocchi plate or any pasta dish, they are great.