Somewhere in the northeast of Italy, north and east of even Venice, is the small city of Udine. The largest city before you enter Slovenia to the east and Austria to the north. From here you can see the Austrian and Julian Alps.
Udine – Alps panorama
From Ljubljana we took an Austrian train to Villach and then over to Udine. Along the way were able to enjoy sights of the Julian Alps out our window and just relax.
Probably one of the most underrated and unlikely places we have been this year is Udine. Unlikely, because it is usually not on anyone’s radar, though we met numerous French and German tourists enjoying it. Underrated, because we think it has some things to offer, that others might not find in the exact same way elsewhere.
Udine – The City
Udine – Near Porto Manin
The people in Udine are very urbane and really enjoy tourist in their small city. They make an extra effort to speak and understand English, where you may not find such proclivities in other Italian cities and towns.
Udine – The City
Udine – Piazza XX Septembre
Udine – Piazza della Liberte
Udine – Piazza della Liberte
Udine – Piazza della Liberte
Udine – Piazza della Liberte
Udine – Piazza della Liberte – Loggia del Lionel
Udine – Piazza della Liberte – Loggia di San Giovanni
Udine – Piazza della Liberte – Loggia del Lionel
Udine – Piazza della Liberte – Loggia del Lionel
Udine – Piazza della Liberte – Loggia di San Giovanni
Udine – Piazza della Liberte – Loggia di San Giovanni
Udine – Piazza della Liberte – Loggia di San Giovanni
Udine – via Mercatovecchio
Udine – Porticos
Udine – The City
Udine – Grand Garden Park
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – View of Udine
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – View of Udine – Loggia di San Giovanni Top of Clock Tower
Udine – Narrow City Streets
Udine – via Mercatovecchio
Udine Castle
Destroyed in the sixteenth century by a violent earthquake, the Udine Castle was rebuilt soon afterwards and stands today housing several museums. It actually sits atop an artificial hill, by all accounts ancient and predating Rome in nature, and is the highest and largest artificial hill in Europe.
Udine – Udine Castle
Udine – Udine Castle
The Civic Museum of the Risorgimento
This museum has artifacts from local historic events following the fall of Venice, up to the time of the mid 1800s. Including documents and written accounts of the annexation of Friuli to the Kingdom of Italy in 1866.
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Friulian Artifacts
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Old Fireplace
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Storage Closet
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Display
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Unusual Doors
The Archaeological Museum
This museum contains an impressive ancient coin collection and other artifacts from ancient and Roman times. Including amphorae, old oil lamps and other funerary objects. Though a small collection, it was rather interesting to learn where each was found locally and their relative histories.
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Roman Stones
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Roman Artifacts
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Another Exhibit
Gallery of Ancient Art
A gallery of art comprising works of local artists from the fourteenth to the nineteenth centuries. Most of the work appear religious in nature. Some of those that caught my eye in particular are the following.
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Painting – Giuseppe Garibaldi
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Bronze of Soldiers
Diorama of the Battle of Montebello
Complete with a map showing the order of battle, this diorama clicks all the right boxes for the model builder at heart.
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Diorama – Order of the Battle of Montebello
The museum has an extraordinary diorama of the Battle of Montebello. For anyone that is or was a model builder, or a warfare historian, one can stand and just marvel at it for some time.
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Diorama – Battle of Montebello
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Diorama – Battle of Montebello
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Diorama – Battle of Montebello
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Diorama – Battle of Montebello
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Diorama – Battle of Montebello
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Diorama – Battle of Montebello
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Diorama – Battle of Montebello
Churches
There are several noteworthy churches in the area, though we were not actually able to visit all of them inside.
Chapel of Palazzo del Monte di Pietà
A chapel, which has beautiful frescoes and is now actually part of the bank Intesa Sanpaolo, is in the Palazzo del Monte di Pietà. Often walked right by tourists, if they are not paying attention, this chapel is a gem, see for yourself.
Udine – Palazzo del Monte di Pieta – Doorway
Udine – Palazzo del Monte di Pieta – Altar of the Pieta
Udine – Palazzo del Monte di Pieta – Ceiling
Church of Saint Maria di Castello
A church that is at the top of the hill and adjacent to the Castel is the Saint Maria di Castello. Complete with bell tower, a remarkable example
Udine – Church of Saint Maria
Cathedral Santa Maria Annuziata
The Cathedral of Santa Maria Annuziata is known for its octagonal bell tower. It can be seen from the castle hill, along with the church which is a major landmark in the city. Formerly consecrated as the Cathedral of Santa Maria Maggiore in 1335, it has three naves and chapels along the sides. Since it was not open at the time, we were only able to get some photographs of the outside.
Udine – Cathedral Santa Maria Annunziata
Udine – Cathedral Santa Maria Annunziata
Udine – Cathedral Santa Maria Annunziata
Udine – Cathedral Santa Maria Annunziata
The Corte di Palazzo Morpurgo is also close by the front of the cathedral, so just wandering across the street from the front of the church should bring you there.
Udine – Corte di Palazzo Morpurgo
Udine – Corte di Palazzo Morpurgo
Hotels
We chose the Astoria Hotel Italia for its old world charm, eschewing some of the more contemporary offers that were available. When we travel, it’s one of those things that can set off one place from another.
The Astoria Hotel Italia
The hotel Astoria Italia has maintained itself as though it fits into the landscape. It sports new amenities, like contemporary and renovated bathrooms (a must), while keeping some of that old world charm. I disagree with putting contemporary style beds in such old rooms, which they clearly want to preserve, but I am probably in the minority (I rather prefer, if its old keep old, like it came out of the nineteenth century, then you get that step-back-in-time feel).
Udine – Astoria Hotel
In any case, our hotel was great and provided a very central place from which to explore the rest of the old city.
Udine – Astoria Hotel – Old Room Keys – The Old Fashioned Way
Udine – Astoria Hotel Italia
Udine – Astoria Hotel Italia
Udine – Astoria Hotel Italia
Restaurants
The restaurants in Udine serve typical northern Italian fare, with some twists for Tyrolean and other close neighbors. It is a fairly cosmopolitan city and one can find Sushi and other worldly franchise food here, so selecting a place to eat should not be an issue.
Ristorante Pizzeria Al Gelso
This restaurant was right around the corner from our hotel, in fact, it is actually adjacent to it (without us knowing). We walked around the corner anyways and entered it from the garden seating direction each time, even though there was a main entrance on the main street. The food is excellent, all with that home-cooked taste, and there’s pizza for those who are unsure what they want, everyone likes pizza!
Ristorante Pizzeria Al Gelso – Front
Ristorante Pizzeria Al Gelso – Spaghetti al Ragu
Ristorante Pizzeria Al Gelso – Caprese Salad
Osteria Alla Ghiacciaia
A lazy and very relaxing restaurant right next to the canal, a perfect place for lunch or dinner.
Udine – Osteria Alla Ghiacciaia – Seating by the canal
We really enjoyed our lunch here, watching the darning-needles, or dragon-flies, flit back and forth over the stream. Although this restaurant becomes very busy for lunch, the service was especially good and punctual, so anyone having problems waiting (which is most common in Italy), it might be a place to visit. The food is very good, fresh and delicately spiced. We kept it simple, bean soup for a started, followed by salads, just to keep things a bit light.
Udine – Osteria Alla Ghiacciaia – Bean Soup
Udine – Osteria Alla Ghiacciaia – Patti
Udine – Osteria Alla Ghiacciaia – Erick
Trattoria Antica Maddalena
This trattoria has a bit of an upscale palette, with a menu and prices to match. As our last evening in Udine, we chose it for its high ratings and interesting looking menu. Unfortunately I forgot to take a photograph of the outside of the establishment, but have a few of the upstairs. You may want to book reservations if you want to sit outside, when we arrived the outside and downstairs seating were completely booked. So act early, if you want to enjoy this restaurant and its food with a street view!
Udine – Trattoria Antica Maddalena – Inside
Udine – Trattoria Antica Maddalena – Inside
Udine – Trattoria Antica Maddalena – Spaghetti with Garlic Cream Sauce, Peppers and Shrimp Tartare
Udine – Trattoria Antica Maddalena – Cheese, Eggplant and Spices Ravioli with Insalata Mista
We leave Udine as the endpoint in our latest trip, which has taken us from one part of Italy – Trieste, through Slovenia and a little bit of Austria, back to Italy and underrated Udine. Though we both ate too much, we really enjoyed this trip and had several surprises along the way, which made it all that more memorable.
Udine – Main Train Station
So, if you are ever on a train traveling east from Milan, perhaps to Venice, Austria or Slovenia, you may want to stop at Udine to see what it has to offer. We stopped on our way back and were not disappointed, we think you wont be either. Happy travels!
We had little slated for our last full day in Ljubljana, but we did want to see the cathedral and Tivoli Park, both of which we had missed in our former romps around town. I guess that is all that remains of our stay here, which we thoroughly and unexpectedly enjoyed.
The Roman Wall
Back in Roman times the settlement which became this city was called Emona. In order to protect Emona, the Romans built a wall around it, like most other Roman towns of that era.
Ljubljana – Park near Roman Wall
Ljubljana – Old Roman or Emona Wall
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall and Plecnik’s 1938 Pyramid
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall
This wall was reconstructed in the early nineteenth century, along with a pyramidal feature for one of its gates.
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall and Plecnik’s 1938 Pyramid
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall and Plecnik’s 1938 Pyramid
The Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral – Tickets For Two
The Ljubljana Cathedral is not always open to the public, so you have to check the side door for the times. There is a 2€ fee per person to see the cathedral, so be prepared pay, if you want a peek.
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral – Bronze Door
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral – Old Papel Seal
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Tivoli Park
Tivoli Park, also known as Tivoli City Park, is pretty large and covers a huge hill that is some four hundred meters in height, so be prepared for some serious walking. For the less ambitious, you may walk around its edges and have just as much fun, without getting tired or sweaty.
Ljubljana – Tivoli Park
We went on a Sunday, so it was pretty busy with native Ljubljanians and Sloveniens enjoying the cafes and park facilities.
Ljubljana – Tivoli Park Entrance
Ljubljana – Tivoli Park
Ljubljana – Tivoli Park
Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Graffiti Block, also known as the Metelkova Art Museum, is about a block housing a collection of graffiti and alternative art works for public viewing. Since, “A picture is worth a thousand words“, I will let my photographs speak for themselves.
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Restaurants
Foculus Restaurant
Ljubljana – Foculus Restaurant
Apparently a trendy little pizzeria on the edge of the city not far from the park, but far enough from the center and river so that it is not much affected by all the crowds. We stopped for lunch and something light, so we both ordered salads, which were very good. The prices were very reasonable too!
Ljubljana – Foculus Restaurant – Chicken Salad
Ljubljana – Foculus Restaurant – Mixed Salad
Epilog
Well that was our trip to Slovenia. I admitted to my wife many times that I didn’t expect much, but was very pleasantly surprised. If you ever get a chance to go, please do so. The people in the city are very nice and almost all speak English very well, so don’t let your lack of language skills deter you, go!
Ljubljana – Mini Dragon – Try and find them all
Some remaining photographs of this great city, enjoy…
Ljubljana – Another Bronze
Ljubljana – Patti enjoying an iced coffee
Ljubljana – Galleria Building
Ljubljana – City Flowers in the Grass – No Herbicides Here!
Ljubljana – Very old section of town, formerly Emona
At the base of the Southern Limestone Alps[1]They are additionally known as the Julian Alps., or Karawanken Mountains, sits the small town and lake of Bled . It is almost a must see place to go on a day trip from Ljubljana, especially if you have enough time. Since we have the time, we usually overbook our stays at places that are totally unknown to us. For Ljubljana specifically, and Slovenia in general, we were happy that we did, since it afforded us a day trip such as the one to Bled. Slovenia really is a great place to visit!
Bled – entrance from parking lot – panorama
Lake Bled – Getting There
To get to the lake you must travel northwest from Ljubljana, there is the E61 that can be taken by car or bus. The trip normally takes forty-five minutes by car, and up to an hour and a quarter by bus, but can take longer if there is an accident or construction on the highway. Upon the suggestion of the information booth by the Triple Bridge we took the bus, even though we now think the train may be faster. The bus is packed, so if you are worried about Covid-19, and you should, you should be prepared to wear you FFp2 mask.
It should be noted, the bus takes two different routes going to and coming from the lake, each taking about the same time. There is of course the train, which may actually take less time gong to and fromm Bled, but then you have about a twenty or so minute walk from the town of Bled Train Station to the lake. The bus on the other hand goes all the way to the lake, even though we chose to get off at the Blen Union station.
Bus Ride to Bled – Starting out
Bus Ride to Bled – Mountains along the way
Bus Ride to Bled – Sign for Bled
Bled – Upravna enota Radovljica
Lake Bled – The Trail
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
There is an excellent trail that totally circumnavigates the lake, going through several tourist beach and cafe points, any one of which you can take a pause in your walk to get refreshed.
Here is a slideshow of our great afternoon walking the lake shore trail, enjoying the beautiful weather and scenery.
Bled – Bled Castle
Bled – entrance walkway
Bled – Bled Castle
Bled – the Julian Alps in the distance
Bled – Lake Bled is surrounded by the Julian Alps
Bled – trail post
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – how the water runs through the rocks
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – the lake water is bluish green
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – the beautiful lake Bled
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – walking the trail
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – Blad Castle
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – Slovenia’s only island
Bled – cyan colored water
Bled – cyan colored water
Bled – walking the trail
Bled – road tunnel
Bled – the moss fountain
Restaurants
Hotel Starkl Restaurant
Around 12:30 or so we stopped about three quarters of the way, going anti-clockwise around the lake, at the restaurant Hotel Starkl. It is best to get to any European tourist restaurant thirty to forty-five minutes in advance, because at one o’clock they fill up quickly. Here we purchased simple salads and enough wine and water to enjoy the fabulous weather.
Continuing our Summer Trip of eastern Italy and Slovenia, and after a two and a half hour train ride from Trieste, is the charming city of Ljubljana, Slovenia. Actually, much to my surprise, stepping off the train there was a noticeable cleanliness to it all which rarely, if ever, went away. We even noticed this in some of the more off-beat areas and in other towns, that we ventured to on our day trips.
The Slovenians are no doubt a very orderly, patient people. This can also be witnessed in their driving, since it is very rare, almost uncommon to hear the sound of a horn. When asked, “Why is this?”, most reply with the simple retort, “Well it’s simply rude, and in most cases, unnecessary.”
Ljubljana – The Main Train Station
Ljubljana, Lublana and Laybach
Ljubljana is a very old city, dating back to the twelfth and eleventh centuries, though a town called Emona stood here during Roman times. Myths and stories have linked it to Jason and the Argonauts and his struggles, and the killing of the great beast which inhabited the marsh nearby[1]This is where the metaphor of the dragon comes in., which apparently was responsible for the great floods that occurred frequently. It later became synonymous with Ljubljana in the mid-twelfth century.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Dragons Bridge
Bridges In Lubljana
There are several noteworthy bridges in the city, the Dragon Bridge, the Triple Bridge, the Cobbler’s Bridge and the Butcher’s Bridge. There are several others, however these are the ones we spent the most time on and are the most remarkable.
The Dragon’s Bridge
Due to the myth it is probably appropriate that the city have a dragon bridge, one not only to remember Jason’s deeds, but also the ever present danger of the river itself.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Dragons Bridge
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Dragons Bridge
The Triple Bridge
Not far from our hotel and adjacent to Prešeren Square is the Triple Bridge. It was originally one bridge, the central span, but as business and traffic increased the other two side bridges were added for pedestrian traffic.
Ljubljana – The Triple Bridge
Ljubljana – The Triple Bridge
The Cobbler’s Bridge
A quaint bridge that connects two important parts of the medieval city.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Cobblers Bridge
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Cobblers Bridge
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Patti on Cobblers Bridge
The Butcher’s Bridge
This bridge got its name, since it was near the place that the butchers of the city used to come and wash the carcasses of the animals. The blood and stench of rotting flesh this process brought down through the city must have been appalling. The practice was stopped soon after the residents had had enough of the smell. It is now decorated with locks and bronzes of mythological creatures.
Ljubljana – City Art – Bronze
Ljubljana – City Art – Bronze
Ljubljana – City Art – Bronze
Ljubljana – City Art – Bronzes
Castle Hill
There are two prominent hills in Ljubljana, the one that contains Tivoli Park and Castle Hill, which contains the Ljubljana Castle.
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Castle
Ljubljana Castle
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Castle – Tickets For Two
Perched above the city on the Castle Hill is the Ljubljana Castle. In 1679, Valvasor did an engraving of the Laybach Castle, as it was known in German at the time, showing the castle and many other landmarks of Lublana.[2]There are many spelling variations for this city, due to it being part of many different empires and countries throughout its history.
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Castle
Ljubljana – Ulica na Grad
Ljubljana – Castle Hill – Ulica na Grad
Ljubljana – From Castle Hill
Ljubljana – The Castle
Ljubljana – Climb to Castle
Ljubljana – From Castle Hill
Ljubljana – From Castle Hill
Ljubljana Castle – Puppet Museum
Ljubljana Castle – Puppet Museum
Ljubljana Castle – Puppet Museum
Ljubljana – From Castle Hill
Ljubljana – From Castle Hill
Ljubljana – From Castle Hill
Ljubljana – From Castle Hill
Ljubljana – Castle From Castle Tower
Ljubljana – Castle From Castle Tower
Ljubljana – Ljubljana and Castle From Castle Tower
Ljubljana – From Castle Tower
Ljubljana – From Castle Tower – Panorama
Ljubljana – From Castle Tower
Ljubljana – From Castle Tower
The Ljubljanica River
As it goes through the city the river is split into two. A major section goes directly through the old city, offering tourists the possibility of buying a ticket and traveling part of it, up to where it divides. The boats cannot venture too far however, since parts of the river are reserved for wildlife and cannot be entered.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River
Sitting at one of the many cafes along the waterway, one can wile away the afternoon sipping a drink and just watching the boats meander along.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – River Boats
Boat Tours
Both looking at the tour boats ply the water and actually taking a boat trip is both relaxing and very enjoyable. We decided one evening to take one and see where it actually goes and found it very interesting.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Boat Tour – Triple Bridge
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Boat Tour
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Boat Tour
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Boat Tour
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Boat Tour
Walking Tour Of The City
Here is a slideshow of some of the other sights in the city.
Ljubljana – Franciscan Church
Ljubljana – Prešeren Square
Ljubljana – Prešeren Square
Ljubljana – Prešeren Square
Ljubljana – Prešeren Square
Ljubljana – Zvezda Park
Ljubljana – Zvezda Park
Ljubljana – Ljubljana University
Ljubljana – Ljubljana University
Ljubljana – Ljubljana University
Ljubljana – Ljubljana University – Europa Fountain
Ljubljana – Ljubljana University
Ljubljana – Mestni Trg
Ljubljana – Mestni Trg
Ljubljana – Cafes along riverfront
Ljubljana – Robba Fountain
Ljubljana – Robba Fountain
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – The Vurnikoval House
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Drevored na Adamič-Lundrovem nabrežju – Portico by the Market
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Vodnik Monument
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Old Business Doorway
Ljubljana – Robba Fountain
Ljubljana – Mestni Trg
Ljubljana – Mestni Trg
Ljubljana – Herkulov vodnjak – Hercules Fountain
Ljubljana – Herkulov vodnjak – Hercules Fountain and Square
Ljubljana – Herkulov vodnjak – Hercules Fountain and Square
Ljubljana – Gornji Trg
Restaurants
Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
This is a traditional Slovenian restaurant, service many of the authentic dishes and also some non-Slovenian favorites, so anyone who visits can find something to eat. For us it was the traditional fried sausage, or Kranjska Klobasa with pickled turnips and roasted potatoes.
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant – Patti
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant – Fried Sausage with Pickled Turnips and Potatoes
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant – Hisna Gibanica
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Cantina Mexicana Restaurant
Ljubljana – Cantina Mexicana Restaurant –
The Cantina Mexicana is a very good mexican restaurant that features both Mexican and Tex-Mex cuisine. It wasn’t too difficult to find something appetizing among the enormous selection of food they offer in their menu.
Ljubljana – Cantina Mexicana Restaurant – Barbecued Chicken
Aside from the Adriatic Magnetic Anomaly, there is an additional one along the the Adriatic Coast that few know about, it’s called Piran.
Piran – View of the Town
I call it an anomaly, because one appears to have no other reasonable way of getting there except by car, which for Europe, one has to admit is very strange.[1]There are several other forms of transportation, but none of them go and return on the same day and almost all run irregularly.
Piran – A Day Trip From Trieste
After our Get Your Guide guide cancelled on us, we had to arrange a transfer through our hotel concierge using Taxi Trieste, in order to visit this town for one day. They were actually very good and came in under the amount quoted by the other service (160€ versus 198€), although in this case to be fair, it was just for the transfer and not an all-day stop-and-go tour.
Piran – Taxi Trieste – Perhaps the only way to get to Piran and back in one day
Piran The City
Piran is located on the Piran peninsula and juts out like a triangle into the Adriatic Sea, the Gulf of Piran to one side and the Gulf of Trieste to the other. One can immediately see that the city itself and its architecture have been strongly influenced by both the Venetians and the Hapsburgs (Austro-Hungarian Empire). The church towers have that Venetian look to them, as well as many of the houses and business structures outlining the Tartini Piazza.
Piran – The Streets
Piran – The Streets
Piran – The Streets – City Gate
Piran – The Streets
Piran – The Streets – City Clock
Piran – The Streets
Piran – The Streets
Piran – The Streets Going up to the wall
Piran – Owl Tile in Wall
Piran – The Town
Piran – The Old Church Saint Mary of Healing and the Lighthouse
Piran – The Old Church Saint Mary of Healing and the Lighthouse
Piran – Sculptor by the sea
Piran – At the point
Piran – The Old Church
Piran – Narrow Streets
Piran – Plaza of the First of May
Piran – Porto Campo – City Gate
Piran – Porto Campo – City Gate
Piazza Tartini
A small plaza that is adorned with a few bronze statues, all which center around the statue of Giuseppe Tartini, the composer and violinist. There are some restaurants, a few businesses and administrative buildings to compliment its surroundings. However, the marble in the middle of the piazza is quite new and shiny and would appear to be a slippery hazard during inclement weather, so be careful.
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Tartini Plaza – Giuseppe Tartini Statue – Violinist
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Interesting Architecture
The Town Wall
Remnants of the old town wall still exist and for a small sum, 3€ each, you may walk the section that is still open.
Piran – Steps leading to the city wall
Piran – The City Wall – Entrance
Piran – The City Wall – Patti on the wall
Piran – The City Wall – View of other section
Piran – The City Wall
Piran – The City Wall
There isn’t really that much to see, aside from its stone masonry and the views it affords to the surrounding area and town.
Piran – The City Wall – View
Piran – The City Wall – View Below
Piran – The City Wall – View of Piran
Piran – The City Wall – The Town Below
Piran – The City Wall – View of the Adriatic
The Church Of Saint George’s Parish
The church stands on the west side of the town on top of the hill overlooking the Gulf of Trieste. From its courtyard, Trieste can be seen in the distance, as well as Miramare Castle.
Piran – Saint George’s Church
Piran – Saint George’s Church
Restaurants
While here, we only had occasion to visit one restaurant for lunch, since we were due to be picked back up at one o’clock in the afternoon.
Ristorante Mestna Kavarna
A fusion of wine bar and restaurant, the Mestna Kavarna caters to most tastes. It offers many simple things, including salads and paninis, and of course wide selection of drinks. We found something to satisfy us before our ride arrived.
On our second day in Trieste we thought it appropriate to check out some local churches, visit the amazing fortress perched above the city and then visit the Grand Canal for lunch.
Trieste – The Grand Canal – Church of Sant’Antonio Nuovo
The Hill of San Giusto
A few blocks walk from our hotel and situated in the center of the old city is the hill of San Giusto, or Saint Justus. The following interesting sights can be seen by planning a day trip to see them all, with ample time for breaks and lunch!
Churches, Basilicas and Cathedrals
Trieste has a plethora of churches of all Christian faiths to visit. The following are noteworthy and some are actually no longer active nor Catholic.
The Basilica of San Silvestro
The oldest church in Trieste, built in the twelfth century in Romanesque style, it contains many fourteenth century frescoes. It was closed when the Austro-Hungarian Empire conquered the area and converted into a church of Waldensians.
Trieste – Basilica San Silvestro
The Church of Santa Maria Maggiore
Currently owned by the region of Trieste, this once proud church was also a barracks and a prison. Now it is just a false collection place for Catholics dropping euros to light candles.
Trieste – Church Santa Maria Maggiore
Trieste – Church Santa Maria Maggiore
Trieste – Church Santa Maria Maggiore
Trieste – Church Santa Maria Maggiore
The Cathedral of San Giusto
Situated on the San Giusto hill and the via della Cathedral is the cathedral of San Giusto, also known as the Trieste Cathedral. The cathedral is home to some very impressive bells and for a modest sum, one can visit them after climbing the 90 or so steps in the bell tower.
Trieste – Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Trieste – Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Ascending the bell tower also reveals an interesting secret, it is not one structure built for the purpose of worship, but rather three.
Trieste – Roman Reliefs in the Tower of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Trieste – Roman Reliefs in the Tower of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Evidence of its ancient roots can be found while climbing the stairs and its history can be found written in the books of the gift shop or other history books.
Trieste – Tower of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Trieste – Tower Stairs of the Tower the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Trieste – Bells of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Trieste – Bells of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Adjacent to the cathedral is the Roman Propylaea. The view from the bell tower offers a great chance to see that layout of this important Roman structure from above.
Trieste – View from the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Trieste – Roman Propylaeum or Columns of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Trieste – Roman Propylaeum or Columns of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
The Castle of San Giusto
On this impressive hill and a short walk away from the Roman Propylaea and Cathedral also stands a castle, which was built on top of ancient remains of older castles.
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Tickets for Two
It has both an impressive armory museum and a Lapidary, which contains a myriad of ancient mosaic tiles and other artifacts.
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Entrance
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Map of Trieste
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – The Cathedrale
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – The Armory
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – The Armory
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Fireplace
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Elaborate Doorway
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Ramparts
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary – Mosaics
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary – Statues
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary – Statues and Reliefs
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary – Lintels
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary – Mosaics
Trieste Grand Canal
Being a port city, there are several things to see by the water, the Grand Canal is probably the first thing you will notice. It is actually a very nice place to have lunch, since there are a number of restaurants and cafes along the via Vincenzo Bellini, or the street where the Grand Canal is located.
Trieste – The Grand Canal – Church of Sant’Antonio Nuovo
Trieste – The Grand Canal – Restaurants
Trieste – The Grand Canal – Looking toward the Sea
Trieste – The Grand Canal – Boats
Trieste – The Grand Canal
Bronze Statues
There are several bronzes throughout the city, most celebrating famous individuals who have lived here for a time. Here are a few.
Surrounded on the three sides, by what are generally called the Hills of Piedmont (for which Superga Hill is one), sits the town of Chieri. A town that goes back to ancient times, due to the richness of the area and the Po river valley.
Chieri – Overlook from the Church of Sant Giorgio – Looking west toward Pino Torinese
From Turin it is easy to get to Chieri. One can either take a bus or take the Sfm1 train from Porta Susa, which runs about every thirty minutes, it is about a thirty minute ride to Chieri and the last stop for this train.
Chieri – Patti at the Tandem Bar on Vittorio Emanuele II
The main pedestrian way, via Vittorio Emanuele II, is a short walk from the train station and has numerous cafes and bars, here you can purchase a coffee or other drink, before you explore this quaint little town.
Town Of A Hundred Towers
During the early middle ages, the town once had numerous towers, especially built into the town wall, which were erected (like in many other towns in Italy) as defensive structures. Most of these were destroyed by Frederick Barbarossa’s army when they laid waste to the town in 1154. However, a few still remain, one of which can be seen below.
Chieri – Overlook from the Church of Sant Giorgio – Looking south and one of the remaining towers
Chieri – Overlook from the Church of Sant Giorgio – Looking southeast
Church of Sant Giorgio
This is the highest point and from here you can get a commanding view of the town, as seen in the two photographs above and the beginning photograph.
Chieri – Church of Sant Giorgio on the hill
Chieri – Church of Sant Giorgio tunnel to overlook
Other than that, there’s not much else to do in Chieri, except perhaps amble through its quiet streets and perhaps do some shopping. Here is a short slide show of some of the other things you can see while here.
Chieri – Tiny Side Street
Chieri – via Vittorio Emanuele II and the Arco Trionfale
Chieri – Church Don Bosco
Chieri – Piazza Mazzini and the Church of Sant Guglielmo
Chieri – Belltower from pathway below the Church of Sant Giorgio
Chieri – Arco Trionfale di Chieri – from Piazza Umberto
Chieri – Torre campanaria del Duomo di Chieri
Chieri – pedestrian way Vittorio Emanuele II
Chieri – small alleyway
Chieri – Piazza Cavour and the Church Ss Nomini Iesi Ac Sanctis Bernardino Et Rocho
Restaurants
With limited time we were only able to visit one restaurant while here, though several that came up on our search were not open until the evening. However, you will find the choice below to be exceptionally good, if and when you have the chance to visit this charming little town in Piedmont.
Trattoria della Erbe
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe
This trattoria sits on the corner of the Piazza Umberto I and via San Domenico, is fairly non-descript, but the food is authentic Sardinian and quite good.
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Caponata Siciliana
The menu changes daily and is posted on both a board outside and on the window next to the entrance. The menu is restrictive, as for most small establishments like this one, but everything we ordered was quite tasty and delicious. We started with some antipasti, a Caponata Siciliana, served with eggplant, onion, peppers, green olives and other goodies, not hot, but just warmed a bit. A slight tinge of vinegar mixed with the tomato based sauce was just right to get the taste buds to pucker for more. Our mains, or primis, came out a short time after and included the Levantine di Mare for Patti and for me, the Ravioli Sardi. Both were delicious and portioned correctly, just enough to leave a little room for dessert!
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Levantina di Mare
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Ravioli Sardi
The dessert was actually unexpectedly delicious and savory. A Sardinian Seada or Seadas, that can only be explained as a kind of dough pocket filled with assorted cheese, heated and served with honey. The sweetness of the honey and the saltiness of the cheese make for an unexpectedly tasty treat.
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Seada or Seadas
Top that off later with a caffè and Sambuca (to make caffè corretto of course) and you have the culmination of the great lunch.
All in all, Chieri makes a great day trip, if only just to walk around and soak up its quiet stillness, after being in Turin for a few weeks. If only to experience some great Sardinian food at this trattoria!
Well, we had just barely left Athens on our way to Naxos Island, when I discovered the feeling that my phone was not in my back pocket. That usually was not so alarming, since when traveling I often take it out and put it in my backpack, so I wouldn’t forget it in what ever form of transportation we were using. I got no further then reaching for my backpack’s zipper, when a dreadful calm came over me. I knew exactly where it was – and it was not with me.
I looked at my wife, with a short pause and a sigh, then told her that I had left my phone back at the hotel. She retorted immediately if I were sure, I responded that I was and that it was actually worse than I had originally thought. Not only had I forgotten my phone, but I had forgotten to take all our money and valuables out of the hotel room’s safe. Exasperated, I immediately informed our private shuttle driver what had happened and that we had to turn around. He assured us not to worry and that all we be alright.
We quickly called the hotel reception what had happened and they responded that they had been trying to get in touch with us. We then let the driver, who speaks very good English and of course Greek, to help explain the situation. We figured out all of the logistics, so that while he continued to take us to the airport, one of the driver’s colleagues drove to the hotel and picked up all of our stuff (after giving him the security code to the safe). With the hotel staff overseeing everything, they sealed our stuff in a bag and the driver was off to the airport. In less than an hour, we were back in possession of my phone and the rest of our travel documents and money. Wow, that was the first time that has ever happened.
In the meantime, while we were waiting and much to our delight, our flight had been delayed by an hour and twenty minutes. So, we felt comfortable that we had plenty of time to wait for the driver, then check in and check all our baggage for Naxos. As soon as the driver returned and we had all of our stuff, we obtained our tickets and started to check in our luggage at the self-service counter, waiting on line like everyone else. However, just as we were next in line, I noticed that the flight was no longer delayed, it was on time; how can that happen?!
Panorama of Naxos Hills
This left us about thirty minutes to finish baggage self-check in and board the aircraft. Undaunted we pushed on. Two of us were successful self checking our baggage, but as soon as the boarding time for the aircraft arrived, the software locked the rest of us out. What a nightmare. The attendant for Aegean Airlines quickly realized the issue and got us over to another counter so our bags got checked in immediately, with all the proper RUSH stickers applied to them, and we were on our way through security.
Naxos Island Hotel – Lobby
Naxos Island Hotel – Lobby
Naxos Island Hotel – Lobby
Naxos Island Hotel
Naxos Island Hotel
Naxos Island Hotel – View From Rooftop Terrace Restaurant
Needless to say, we made our flight and were soon enjoying the hospitality of our hosts at the Naxos Island Hotel. Since our flight was on time, we arrived before the appropriate check in time, but no worries, our rooms were ready and we were hustled to our rooms, bags and all by our hosts. After a quick refresh, we went to lunch. It was time to really be on vacation, but we were all still wondering, what else could go wrong? Unfortunately, things would uncharacteristically continue to happen to us.
Naxos – The Island
The largest of the Cyclodaes, Naxos is a large oblong island with a central mountainous region with peaks high enough to create their own weather. The island is known for its beaches, most of which are sandy, but the type of sand created from eroded rock and not from reefs, it is therefore fairly coarse to walk on and can become very hot in the sun, so bring your sandals.
Paros Island – From The Beach
The Beach – A View From The Water
The Blue Aegean Sea
Naxos City – From Airport Road
Cycling Naxos
For the adventurous, or those just wishing to get out and explore, Naxos offers some fairly good cycling. There are a few places where you can rent bicycles. However, if you are looking for something more advanced, you should reserve your equipment before you leave.
Cycling Naxos – Gabi, Tristan and Erick – Day 1
We rented our road bikes from Naxos Bikes and were not disappointed. Though a bit dated, all of the bikes performed as stated. The owners were eager to supply enough tubes, pumps and other equipment (helmets) as needed. The only thing we had to bring were our own clothes, shoes and Garmins. They delivered and picked up right at our hotel for a modest fee, so we didn’t have to worry about getting into town prior to our ride.
We really enjoyed touring Naxos, though I would suggest planning your route before you leave your hotel, as not all roads are suitable for road bikes (if you make a wrong turn, you will see what I mean).
Naxos – The City
The modern part of Naxos is pretty little port city built into a small hill that of course has a church and castle built on top of it. The hill has very interesting narrow winding streets that one can peruse and occasionally shop at the stores that dot the way.
Naxos, Naxos – The City
The Venetian Castle of Naxos is not much to look at, and from what we could tell, not open to the public, since all the entrances appear locked, signed and boarded up.
Naxos, Naxos – Alleyway To Castle
Naxos, Naxos – Alleyway To Castle
Naxos, Naxos – Alleyway To Castle
Naxos, Naxos – Alleyway To Castle – Old Market Entrance
Naxos, Naxos – Alleyway To Castle
Naxos, Naxos – Alleyway To Castle
Naxos, Naxos – The Castle
Naxos, Naxos – The Castle
Naxos, Naxos – The Castle
Naxos, Naxos – The Castle
Naxos, Naxos – The Castle – Walking Through Part Of The Castle
The Catholic Cathedral at the top is open to the public, but when we arrived it was during lunch and we were not going to stay until later in the afternoon for them to reopen. It was just a passing thought, since our real intent was to find a place to each lunch ourselves.
The Temple of Apollo
The interesting form that we first came in contact with at our hotel has an actual presence on the island. The Temple of Apollo are the remains of a structure to the god Apollo built by Lygdamis the tyrant in the sixth century BCE on a peninsula just off the harbor of Naxos City. In fact he never actually completed it. Before he could do so, he was conquered by the Spartan army in 524 BCE and never saw power again.
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo
Due to its age and no doubt having been plundered over the millennia, all that stands after repeated excavations and reconstructions, is the gate itself. It stands with its lintel and two sides upright on a small outcropping of rock just to the north of the city against the stark blue Aegean sky.
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo
Naxos, Naxos – And Its Jetty From The Temple of Apollo
Naxos, Naxos – The Harbor
Naxos, Naxos – From Walkway
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo – Statue outside
Our Day Tour
Naxos being such a large island, requires you to at least spend a day exploring areas other than its beaches. We used Naxos Luxury Transport as our Tour Guides to explore a few sites we wanted to see, as well as some others that were suggested by our guide. The entire tour was six hours, most of which was in a van, but included many stops, including Sangry or Sangri (also known as the Temple of Demeter), Manolis Pottery, Chalkio and the Citron distillery, the Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue, the town of Apeiranthos and the Eggares Olive Oil Museum.
It was right around this time that my wife Patti became very sick with bronchitis. To the point at which, she had lost almost her entire voice before we reached the Olive Oil museum in Eggares. What ever dark cloud or spell we were under, it appeared to have followed us into the Naxos hills. I started to wonder, what else could befall us?
The Temple Of Sangri
Perhaps a forty-five minute drive from Naxos is the Temple of Sangri. It is also called the Temple of Demeter or the Temple of Kore, there are also signs that the cult of Apollo may have used the site.
Our Day Tour – Sangri Temple
It is an archaic temple that was built on Naxos in the six century BCE. For a Greek temple it is square, rather than the usual rectangular shape. Models that reconstruct its initial design call for a smart, efficient building using internal columns of varying lengths, so that a full marble, translucent roof and ceiling could be accommodated. This provided soft, even internal lighting during the daytime, so that little if any additional lighting was needed.
Our Day Tour – Sangri – Tickets For Two
Our Day Tour – Sangri
Our Day Tour – Sangri
Our Day Tour – Sangri
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Hillside
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
The Pottery Of Limpertas Manolis
As any typical tour would inject, we visited the local pottery establishment of Limpertas Manolis. His apparent claim to fame was in creating eccentric, yet useful oil decanters and other novel vessels to store things. He also makes the odd spoon holder, vase, cups and saucers.
Our Day Tour – Limpertas Manolis Pottery
Clearly an artist, since his small place was strewn with all kinds of broken and forgotten pieces. Let alone his clear penchant for throwing the odd clay ball at the wall, for which was clearly evident by the definitive and unnatural accumulation growing from the vertical surface from where he sat.
Our Day Tour – Limpertas Manolis Pottery
Our Day Tour – Limpertas Manolis Pottery
Our Day Tour – Limpertas Manolis Pottery
Distillery Vallindras
In Chalkio, or Chalki, as some prefer; you can find the distillery M. G. Vallindras. This is an old firm which makes an aperitif widely known throughout Greece, known as Kitron, it comes in three varieties (and colors), depending on the sugar and alcohol content.
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery
It is a very interesting distillery to visit and learn how this special Greek aperitif is made using Star Anise and other plants. Well worth a stop, if only to pick up a few bottles of their timeless spirits. Most will find the green and yellow varieties more to their liking, they are not as harsh or dry as the clear variety. The taste is more austere than a Molinari Extra or a Ramazzotti, but pleasant after a dinner nonetheless.
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery – Alembic
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery – Old Bottles
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery – Two of Three Variaties
The Flerio Melanes Kouros
Probable one of the more obscure places to visit archeologically on Naxos is the unfinished Kouros. Located not far from the intersection of the Naxou-Monis and Naxou-Chalkiou roads, you should find a small place to park, it’s rather rural so it should be no problem.
Naxos – The Koyros or Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue
If you are in the right place, there will be some signs indicating the way.
Naxos – The Walkway to Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue
Naxos – The Koyros or Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue
Naxos – The Walkway to Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue
Naxos – The Koyros or Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue
Once found, the Flerio Melanes Kouros is a small walk away up a paved walkway. It appears to reside in a small stone fenced yard, but cannot leave since one of its legs are broken.
Naxos – The Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue
Naxos – The Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue
If you have the time there are a few other things to see in the area. The Faragi Kouros is not far from here and is close to other stones that apparently were chosen for other works, but never started.
Apeiranthos
A small town in the hills of Naxos, obtainable only by car, is worth a trip, if only to see its marbled streets and pedestrian ways. If you are on a tour, its a good place to stop for lunch and wander the streets until you are ready to eat. There are many interesting shops to explore and some novel architecture to experience. An hour or two would suffice in order to do both.
Apeiranthos, Naxos – Looking Out At The Hills
Apeiranthos, Naxos – Old Stone Arch
Apeiranthos, Naxos – The marble walkways
Apeiranthos, Naxos – Main Pedestrian Way
Apeiranthos, Naxos – Marble, marble everywhere
Apeiranthos, Naxos
Naxos – Another Old Grainery Windmill
Apeiranthos, Naxos – The middle of town
Eggares Olive Oil Museum
A small private museum showing the discipline of olive oil making can be found not more that a half hour drive from Naxos harbor. The Eggares Olive Oil Museum has a small collection of old oil presses, as well as other tools and the complete history of their firm.
Eggares, Naxos – The Eggares Olive Oil Museum
The museum continues to sell olive oil and olives that it produces in the gift shop. Unfortunately we did not purchase any, since most of the products are not bottled and perhaps not suitable for a return flight. So, instead of taking a chance, we opted out of bringing a sample home.
Eggares, Naxos – The Eggares Olive Oil Museum – Old Mill Stone
Eggares, Naxos – The Eggares Olive Oil Museum – Winch Used To Turn The Millstone
Eggares, Naxos – The Eggares Olive Oil Museum – Olive Millstone
Eggares, Naxos – The Eggares Olive Oil Museum – Olive Millstone
Restaurants
The beach where our hotel was situated was well endowed with restaurants. What follows is only a sample of what is available, but all have very good menus and delicious food.
Taverna Authentic Greek Cuisine Restaurant
Though we had reservations at another restaurant, we had all decided that we were hungry and had to eat a little early.
So, we headed back down to the harbor from our sojourn up the hill of Naxos and its castle. There we found the Taverna Authentic Greek Cuisine Restaurant, which as can be imagined, serves numerous authentic Greek dishes.
Naxos, Naxos – Taverna Authentic Greek Cuisine Restaurant – Patti, Ericka, Gabi and Dana
Soon after we arrived, we ate lunch at the Taverna O Giannoulis and enjoyed a very nice meal with water, wine and all the supplements. They have a great Greek menu, the service is very quick and the seating outside is perfect (though we went in June, so heat was never an issue).
Taverna O’ Giannoulis
Taverna O’ Giannoulis – Kitchen
Taverna O’ Giannoulis
Taverna O’ Giannoulis
Amorginos Tavern
While on our Naxos day tour, we stopped in the town of Apeiranthos, the one where all the streets and pedestrian ways are made of marble. One of two places recommended by our guide, we chose it for its menu and selection of foods.
Apeiranthos, Naxos – The Amorginos Tavern
There is plenty of outside seating, though we sat just indoors, in order to avoid the midday sun. The service was pretty good, though the food was served randomly, apparently whenever it was ready. Which is good if you ordered something hot, but if you expect your food to come out all at once for your group, you may want to go elsewhere. The food was excellent, as was the local wine and the prices were very reasonable.
The Relax Cafe
No ride is complete without a coffee stop, and perhaps a bite to eat. After our second morning ride, we decided that we would stop in town, Naxos, and visit the Relax Cafe on the water; not only to enjoy the view, the wind and surf, but also some good coffee and what turned out to be amazing vegetable and cheese omelets (the secret it appears, is not just throwing the freshly cut veggies into the scrambled eggs, but to barbecue or fry them a bit first, infusing them with the burnt taste, yu-ummm).
Highly recommended place for breakfast, unless of course you are timid about calories, as avid cyclist, we aren’t. Enjoy!
Del Mar Cafe
Situated almost in the middle of our strand is the Del Mar Cafe. An Italian restaurant that caters to all needs, especially those nagging Italian taste buds that some of us have. Angela and Marco moved from Italy eight years ago and are excellent hosts, they will ensure your meal is prepared to your expectations. We went here several times for lunch and dinner and used their beach services as well; their wines are also very good, we were never disappointed.
Naxos – A Sunset
Wines
The following wines we enjoyed while dining in Naxos. Most are inexpensive wines, all are from Greece or the neighboring islands and are completely drinkable and satisfying.
This blog article is split into three separate acts. Not necessarily in homage to the Greek tradition of plays, but more that our trip turned out to be more of a Greek tragedy. A milder version of one of course, but one nonetheless.
We do not know if it’s the land of bad karma, bad juju or what, but for the first time in our long lineage of trips, almost everything that could go wrong did. That is not to say, there is something wrong with Greece as a whole, it could just be us (and probably is), or we just may happened to have had a bad sequence of events occur. However, always being guided by the premise that bad luck runs in threes, we are now beginning to think that is just an arbitrary number, it appears it can also be all sixes and sevens.
To add some preamble here, there were six of us traveling from three different parts of the globe. My wife and I from Italy, Ericka and Gabriel (Gabi) from Germany and our two sons, Dana and Tristan, from the United States.
Flight from Milan Malpensa to Athens
The first sign there would be any trouble was a line of storms that developed the day of travel and stalled along the east coast. Since they were flying into JFK, both of my sons had their flights canceled. They were able to get booked again for the next day, after having wasted their entire Friday sitting in an airport or on an airplane. Luckily, the new logistics worked and they made it to Athens a day late and one vacation day less, but with all of their luggage.
Once altogether, we learned that our son Dana and our son-in-law Gabi had both gotten colds, so right away we were thinking of the possibility of Covid. Luckily, that was not the case either, they were just feeling the effects of common colds brought on by loosening restrictions.
Athens – Group Photograph
Flowers – Athens
Flowers – Athens
Flowers – Athens
Flowers – Athens
In any event, we pressed on with our vacation. The next day, upon trying to enter a museum, we quickly discovered that I had purchased a five day pass for everyone, which of course did not start until our last full day in Athens. Not sure how I did that, but I just chalked it up to old age and moved on. Luckily, nothing else happened to us the next few day in Athens.
Athens – The City
The modern part of Athens is typical city for a city of central Europe, containing a core with upscale shopping surrounded by environs of more modest means and services. In some places it looks like it is in desperate need of planning and repairs. But for the most part things appear to work quite well by Greek standards.
Athens – Memorial for the Unknown Soldier
Athens – Shopping
Athens – Side streets
Athens – Shopping
Restaurants – Plaza Dimopratiriou
The Acropolis from below
Athens at night
The Acropolis at night
Athens – Hadrian’s Arch – Ericka, Dana and Tristan
The Great Library of Hadrian
No visit to Athens complete without seeing the changing of the guard at the National Memorial of the Unknown Soldier.
Lycabettus Hill
Located northeast of the city center is the hill of Lycabettus, atop which sits the Church of Saint George. About a thirty minute walk from the Monument of the Unknown Soldier you can reach the cable car at Lykavittós and for a modest sum, a ride to the top.
Athens Panorama
The views are pretty good from this vantage point, so you will want to pick a clear day. It is a very good place for a panoramic photograph of Athens.
Athens – Lycabettus Hill – Church and Observation Patio
Athens – Lycabettus Hill – Church of Saint George – Group Photograph
You can also visit the church and then have a relaxing drink at one of the many bars on this hilltop.
The Acropolis
The Acropolis is a historic site with few equals. Perched atop a hill overlooking the rest of Athens, this great structure must have been magnificent in its day. Entering through the Beulé Gate, you ascend the Propylaea with the Temple of Athena Nike to your right.
The Acropolis – Parthenon – From Lower Athens
Temple of Athena Nike
The temple stands to the right of the entrance, almost as a sentinel to this very religious place. Situated to the right of the Propylaea, it is the most fully iconic temple in the Acropolis. Unfortunately what we see today is a reconstruction of what it must have looked like before the Turks destroyed the temple in 1686.
The Acropolis – Temple of Athena Nike
The Acropolis – From the Propylaea or Gatehouse – Temple of Athena Nike
The Parthenon
Under a constant state of preservation, repairs and reconstruction the Parthenon is well signed and for the most part well protected from the tourists. It is an impressive structure, when placed behind the backdrop of history, being built more than 2500 years ago.
The Acropolis – Parthenon
The Acropolis – Parthenon
The Parthenon
There are a few additional points of interest below the Acropolis, but no less important.
Sanctuary of Dionysos Eleuthereus
The Acropolis Museum – Area of the Dörpfeld Excavations
The Acropolis Museum – Area of the Dörpfeld Excavations
The Acropolis Museum – Large Statue
The Acropolis Museum – Large Statue
The Erechtheion
My favorite is the Erechtheion and the Porch of the Maidens, also know as the Caryatid Porch. It is one of the only, if not few, buildings in the Acropolis that does not have a symmetrical architecture. It is theorized this either had to do with the numerous cults that built the structure, or the uneven ground it was built on, making a classic Greek structure impossible.
The Erechtheion and Porch of Maidens
The Acropolis – The Erechtheion – Porch of Maidens
The Erechtheion and Porch of Maidens
The Erechtheion and Porch of Maidens
The Erechtheion and Porch of Maidens
The Erechtheion and Porch of Maidens
From the southeast side the asymmetry is easily seen, with the Porch of the Maidens displaying its most iconic feature.
The Erechtheion – Porch of Maidens – Southeast View
The Agora
Not far from the slopes of the Acropolis is the Agora, or the central meeting place for all ancient Athenians. Primarily of religious significance, but also used for business, politics and artisans. The main street was called the Panathenaic Way, which ran through the Agora to the main gate of Athens.
Grounds of the Agora, Looking at the Temple of Hephaestus
Grounds of the Agora
Looking at the Agora and Stoa of Attalos
Stoa of Attalos
The Stoa of Attalos was central to the Agora and primarily used as a place to conduct business. Stoae are buildings constructed with a portico, as a defense against the sun and weather. It was reconstructed in the 1950s, using many of the original pieces, especially on the north side of the building, but reinforced in the basement area in order to be properly repurposed the building as a museum. Here is where the trades people, artisans and shop keepers could sell their wares and conduct business.
The Stoa of Attalos – The Facade
The portico serves as an outdoor museum, while the upstairs serves that same purpose, but provides that more indoor feeling. Many of the pieces are statues and busts of high ranking individuals in ancient Greek society.
The Stoa of Attalos – The Portico
The Stoa of Attalos – Diorama of Buildings
The Stoa of Attalos – Museum Works
The Stoa of Attalos – Diorama of Buildings, the Agora and Temple
The Stoa of Attalos – Head of Alexander
The Stoa of Attalos – The Portico
The Temple of Hephaestus
Probably the most well preserved structure on the grounds of the Agora, even parts of the roof are still intact, is the Temple of Hephaestus. Considering its age and that fact that it was never destroyed during a war or plundered for building materials, it stands nimbly on the grounds of the Agora as a testament to Greek architecture.
Grounds of the Agora – The Temple of Hephaestus
Walking around the structure one can easily take photographs of its interior and columns.
The Temple of Hephaestus
The Temple of Hephaestus – Columns and Inside Details
The Temple of Hephaestus – Ceiling
The Temple of Hephaestus – Columns
The Odeon of Agrippa
Unfortunately not much of the Odeon of Agrippa structure still exists, with the exception of its magnificent columns. Built in relief, the four columns depicted giants and tritons, all of which are heavily damaged. Initially designed and built as a hall to hold performances in, its structure was not designed like other buildings to endure the ages. It fell into ruin fairly quickly and was rebuilt at some point in the second century and repurposed later as a lecture hall, only to be destroyed by a Herulian raid in 267 CE.
Statues at the entrance to the Odeon and Agrippa
Restaurants
As with any large European city restaurants abound in Athens and it offers a wide range of cuisines and options for anyone’s appetite. With some proper planning and reservations you should have no problem enjoying Greek dining during your vacation. Failure to do so will in most cases result in long wait times and exploring other options.
The Arcadia
We ate lunch at the Arcadia and enjoyed a very nice meal after a morning of exploring Athens.
The Arcadia Restaurant – Greek Salad
The Arcadia Restaurant – Gabi, Dana and Erick
The Arcadia Restaurant – Patti, Tristan and Ericka
The Arcadia Restaurant – Soup
Maiandros
Reservations are a must for this restaurant. The Maiandros Restaurant gets high marks for excellent traditional Greek cuisine and price. If you want to take advantage of its fine cooking and still have money left in your pocket, look no further than this restaurant. I would suggest ordering the Stifado, if you are meat lover (which I am not, but how could I resist), you will not be disappointed.
The Maiandros Restaurant – Store Front
The Maiandros Restaurant – Menu
The Maiandros Restaurant – Stifado
The Maiandros Restaurant – Stifado pic
The Maiandros Restaurant – Greek Salad
The Maiandros Restaurant – Stifado
PalioTetradio
Perched atop a long staircase on the slopes of the Acropolis sits the Palio Tetradio. This little alley and staircase is packed with restaurants and is more of a tourist attraction and known for its ambiance, than its food and service.
The Palio Tetradio Restaurant
The Palio Tetradio Restaurant – Vegetable Soup
The Palio Tetradio Restaurant – Pork Souvlaki
View From Out Table – The Palio Tetradio Restaurant
However, they do have live music and since several of the other restaurants have their own musicians, it can feel like dueling musical talents as some points during your dinner.
The Palio Tetradio Restaurant – Musicians
Wines
The following wines we enjoyed while dining in Athens. You don’t necessarily have to purchase a very expensive wine, most house wine is completely drinkable and satisfying.
Wines – Einomaypo Reserve 2018 – Front Label
Wines – Einomaypo Reserve 2018 – Back Label
Wines – ΜOΣXOΦIΛEPO ZAXAPIA – Moschofilero Zacharia 2021 – White – Front Label
Wines – ΜOΣXOΦIΛEPO ZAXAPIA – Moschofilero Zacharia 2021 – White – Back Label
Wines – Kτήμα ΓΕΡΟΒΑΣΙΛΕΙΟΥ – GEROVASILEIOU Estate 2019 – Red – Front Label
Wines – Kτήμα ΓΕΡΟΒΑΣΙΛΕΙΟΥ – GEROVASILEIOU Estate 2019 – Red – Back Label
A short drive, just outside Torre Pellice, is the small commune of Angrogna. Situated high up on the hill. Overlooking Torre Pellice, Angrogna commands a very nice view of the valley floor and hides a local secret in the form of a tiny underground chapel by a mostly unknown religious sect.
The Waldensians
The Waldensians were and are a pre-reformation sect that was extremely persecuted by the Roman Catholic Church as heretical. Therefore, they had to take their religious practices in many places underground, in order to escape discrimination, capture, torture and in many cases death. In Angrogna you will find one such hide out, a small cave on a mountainside used as a chapel. Here members would secretly meet in order to carry out their many religious practices without the notice of the church or local onlookers.
The Geology Close To The Waldensian Chapel – Craggy And Full Of Boulders
The Waldensian Chapel
The cave is a poor collection of boulders left by the ice age that apparently produced a cave structure suitable enough for such practices. It is difficult to find, if they were not signs and an entrance stairway to its opening. Even then, the entrance is wet, a very tight fit for most present individuals, and thus requires a degree climbing to actually reach the inner chamber.
Direction To The Waldensian Chapel – Ghieisa D’La Tana
Trail Sign To The Waldensian Chapel
Modern Sign For The Waldensian Church
Entrance To The Waldensian Chapel
Sam, Our Host, Walking Down The Stairs To The Waldensian Chapel
The Waldensian Chapel Entrance
The Waldensian Chapel Inner Cave From Entrance
The Waldensian Chapel – Light From Above
The Waldensian Chapel – The Chapel Altar Lit By A Sunbeam
The Waldensian Chapel – Chapel Altar And Inside – Using A Flash
The Waldensian Chapel – The Altar – Using A Flash
The inner chamber is a small, wet and very dark room about five by ten meters. It includes a small makeshift altar, but nothing else. In its day, it must have been something to experience during a mass.
The School Of Odin-Bertot
Very close by and less than a few hundred meter walk from the hidden chapel, is the School of Odin-Bertot.
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot – Outside View of the School Room Entrance
Reminiscent of one room school houses in many other rural areas, this one specifically served the mountain people of the area. Since the above link explains all, a few more photographs of the interior and the museum are all that’s in order at this point.
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot – School House Room
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot – Another View Of The School House Room
How To Get There
There are several ways to get there, either via the School of Odin, or by the parking area further away. Since maps are worth a thousands words, here are two that you will find once there, but they also show the overall area so you can use this with what ever map, app or device you have to cross reference your way there.
Map For The Waldensian Church And School Of Odin
Local Map Of Historic Sites
Directions
Between Torre Pellice and Luserna San Giovanni you should find road 161. At the traffic circle, take the road towards Angrogna. You should also see signs for the Guieiza d’la Tana, the Chabas and the Vaccera. Keep following road to the main town square, then continue for about two kilometers and you will arrive in the hamlet of Serre. Turn right, you should see the beginning of the path and the signs “Chanforan” and “Odin”. Walk the path, following the sign for Ghieisa D’La Tana. You will eventually come to a wooden railing with the words Entrata on it, walk down the steps, you have arrived at the temple.
