Continuing our Summer Trip of eastern Italy and Slovenia, and after a two and a half hour train ride from Trieste, is the charming city of Ljubljana, Slovenia. Actually, much to my surprise, stepping off the train there was a noticeable cleanliness to it all which rarely, if ever, went away. We even noticed this in some of the more off-beat areas and in other towns, that we ventured to on our day trips.
The Slovenians are no doubt a very orderly, patient people. This can also be witnessed in their driving, since it is very rare, almost uncommon to hear the sound of a horn. When asked, “Why is this?”, most reply with the simple retort, “Well it’s simply rude, and in most cases, unnecessary.”
Ljubljana – The Main Train Station
Ljubljana, Lublana and Laybach
Ljubljana is a very old city, dating back to the twelfth and eleventh centuries, though a town called Emona stood here during Roman times. Myths and stories have linked it to Jason and the Argonauts and his struggles, and the killing of the great beast which inhabited the marsh nearby[1]This is where the metaphor of the dragon comes in., which apparently was responsible for the great floods that occurred frequently. It later became synonymous with Ljubljana in the mid-twelfth century.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Dragons Bridge
Bridges In Lubljana
There are several noteworthy bridges in the city, the Dragon Bridge, the Triple Bridge, the Cobbler’s Bridge and the Butcher’s Bridge. There are several others, however these are the ones we spent the most time on and are the most remarkable.
The Dragon’s Bridge
Due to the myth it is probably appropriate that the city have a dragon bridge, one not only to remember Jason’s deeds, but also the ever present danger of the river itself.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Dragons Bridge
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Dragons Bridge
The Triple Bridge
Not far from our hotel and adjacent to Prešeren Square is the Triple Bridge. It was originally one bridge, the central span, but as business and traffic increased the other two side bridges were added for pedestrian traffic.
Ljubljana – The Triple Bridge
Ljubljana – The Triple Bridge
The Cobbler’s Bridge
A quaint bridge that connects two important parts of the medieval city.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Cobblers Bridge
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Cobblers Bridge
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Patti on Cobblers Bridge
The Butcher’s Bridge
This bridge got its name, since it was near the place that the butchers of the city used to come and wash the carcasses of the animals. The blood and stench of rotting flesh this process brought down through the city must have been appalling. The practice was stopped soon after the residents had had enough of the smell. It is now decorated with locks and bronzes of mythological creatures.
Ljubljana – City Art – Bronze
Ljubljana – City Art – Bronze
Ljubljana – City Art – Bronze
Ljubljana – City Art – Bronzes
Castle Hill
There are two prominent hills in Ljubljana, the one that contains Tivoli Park and Castle Hill, which contains the Ljubljana Castle.
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Castle
Ljubljana Castle
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Castle – Tickets For Two
Perched above the city on the Castle Hill is the Ljubljana Castle. In 1679, Valvasor did an engraving of the Laybach Castle, as it was known in German at the time, showing the castle and many other landmarks of Lublana.[2]There are many spelling variations for this city, due to it being part of many different empires and countries throughout its history.
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Castle
Ljubljana – Ulica na Grad
Ljubljana – Castle Hill – Ulica na Grad
Ljubljana – From Castle Hill
Ljubljana – The Castle
Ljubljana – Climb to Castle
Ljubljana – From Castle Hill
Ljubljana – From Castle Hill
Ljubljana Castle – Puppet Museum
Ljubljana Castle – Puppet Museum
Ljubljana Castle – Puppet Museum
Ljubljana – From Castle Hill
Ljubljana – From Castle Hill
Ljubljana – From Castle Hill
Ljubljana – From Castle Hill
Ljubljana – Castle From Castle Tower
Ljubljana – Castle From Castle Tower
Ljubljana – Ljubljana and Castle From Castle Tower
Ljubljana – From Castle Tower
Ljubljana – From Castle Tower – Panorama
Ljubljana – From Castle Tower
Ljubljana – From Castle Tower
The Ljubljanica River
As it goes through the city the river is split into two. A major section goes directly through the old city, offering tourists the possibility of buying a ticket and traveling part of it, up to where it divides. The boats cannot venture too far however, since parts of the river are reserved for wildlife and cannot be entered.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River
Sitting at one of the many cafes along the waterway, one can wile away the afternoon sipping a drink and just watching the boats meander along.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – River Boats
Boat Tours
Both looking at the tour boats ply the water and actually taking a boat trip is both relaxing and very enjoyable. We decided one evening to take one and see where it actually goes and found it very interesting.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Boat Tour – Triple Bridge
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Boat Tour
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Boat Tour
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Boat Tour
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Boat Tour
Walking Tour Of The City
Here is a slideshow of some of the other sights in the city.
Ljubljana – Franciscan Church
Ljubljana – Prešeren Square
Ljubljana – Prešeren Square
Ljubljana – Prešeren Square
Ljubljana – Prešeren Square
Ljubljana – Zvezda Park
Ljubljana – Zvezda Park
Ljubljana – Ljubljana University
Ljubljana – Ljubljana University
Ljubljana – Ljubljana University
Ljubljana – Ljubljana University – Europa Fountain
Ljubljana – Ljubljana University
Ljubljana – Mestni Trg
Ljubljana – Mestni Trg
Ljubljana – Cafes along riverfront
Ljubljana – Robba Fountain
Ljubljana – Robba Fountain
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – The Vurnikoval House
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Drevored na Adamič-Lundrovem nabrežju – Portico by the Market
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Vodnik Monument
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Old Business Doorway
Ljubljana – Robba Fountain
Ljubljana – Mestni Trg
Ljubljana – Mestni Trg
Ljubljana – Herkulov vodnjak – Hercules Fountain
Ljubljana – Herkulov vodnjak – Hercules Fountain and Square
Ljubljana – Herkulov vodnjak – Hercules Fountain and Square
Ljubljana – Gornji Trg
Restaurants
Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
This is a traditional Slovenian restaurant, service many of the authentic dishes and also some non-Slovenian favorites, so anyone who visits can find something to eat. For us it was the traditional fried sausage, or Kranjska Klobasa with pickled turnips and roasted potatoes.
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant – Patti
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant – Fried Sausage with Pickled Turnips and Potatoes
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant – Hisna Gibanica
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Cantina Mexicana Restaurant
Ljubljana – Cantina Mexicana Restaurant –
The Cantina Mexicana is a very good mexican restaurant that features both Mexican and Tex-Mex cuisine. It wasn’t too difficult to find something appetizing among the enormous selection of food they offer in their menu.
Ljubljana – Cantina Mexicana Restaurant – Barbecued Chicken
Aside from the Adriatic Magnetic Anomaly, there is an additional one along the the Adriatic Coast that few know about, it’s called Piran.
Piran – View of the Town
I call it an anomaly, because one appears to have no other reasonable way of getting there except by car, which for Europe, one has to admit is very strange.[1]There are several other forms of transportation, but none of them go and return on the same day and almost all run irregularly.
Piran – A Day Trip From Trieste
After our Get Your Guide guide cancelled on us, we had to arrange a transfer through our hotel concierge using Taxi Trieste, in order to visit this town for one day. They were actually very good and came in under the amount quoted by the other service (160€ versus 198€), although in this case to be fair, it was just for the transfer and not an all-day stop-and-go tour.
Piran – Taxi Trieste – Perhaps the only way to get to Piran and back in one day
Piran The City
Piran is located on the Piran peninsula and juts out like a triangle into the Adriatic Sea, the Gulf of Piran to one side and the Gulf of Trieste to the other. One can immediately see that the city itself and its architecture have been strongly influenced by both the Venetians and the Hapsburgs (Austro-Hungarian Empire). The church towers have that Venetian look to them, as well as many of the houses and business structures outlining the Tartini Piazza.
Piran – The Streets
Piran – The Streets
Piran – The Streets – City Gate
Piran – The Streets
Piran – The Streets – City Clock
Piran – The Streets
Piran – The Streets
Piran – The Streets Going up to the wall
Piran – Owl Tile in Wall
Piran – The Town
Piran – The Old Church Saint Mary of Healing and the Lighthouse
Piran – The Old Church Saint Mary of Healing and the Lighthouse
Piran – Sculptor by the sea
Piran – At the point
Piran – The Old Church
Piran – Narrow Streets
Piran – Plaza of the First of May
Piran – Porto Campo – City Gate
Piran – Porto Campo – City Gate
Piazza Tartini
A small plaza that is adorned with a few bronze statues, all which center around the statue of Giuseppe Tartini, the composer and violinist. There are some restaurants, a few businesses and administrative buildings to compliment its surroundings. However, the marble in the middle of the piazza is quite new and shiny and would appear to be a slippery hazard during inclement weather, so be careful.
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Tartini Plaza – Giuseppe Tartini Statue – Violinist
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Interesting Architecture
The Town Wall
Remnants of the old town wall still exist and for a small sum, 3€ each, you may walk the section that is still open.
Piran – Steps leading to the city wall
Piran – The City Wall – Entrance
Piran – The City Wall – Patti on the wall
Piran – The City Wall – View of other section
Piran – The City Wall
Piran – The City Wall
There isn’t really that much to see, aside from its stone masonry and the views it affords to the surrounding area and town.
Piran – The City Wall – View
Piran – The City Wall – View Below
Piran – The City Wall – View of Piran
Piran – The City Wall – The Town Below
Piran – The City Wall – View of the Adriatic
The Church Of Saint George’s Parish
The church stands on the west side of the town on top of the hill overlooking the Gulf of Trieste. From its courtyard, Trieste can be seen in the distance, as well as Miramare Castle.
Piran – Saint George’s Church
Piran – Saint George’s Church
Restaurants
While here, we only had occasion to visit one restaurant for lunch, since we were due to be picked back up at one o’clock in the afternoon.
Ristorante Mestna Kavarna
A fusion of wine bar and restaurant, the Mestna Kavarna caters to most tastes. It offers many simple things, including salads and paninis, and of course wide selection of drinks. We found something to satisfy us before our ride arrived.
On our second day in Trieste we thought it appropriate to check out some local churches, visit the amazing fortress perched above the city and then visit the Grand Canal for lunch.
Trieste – The Grand Canal – Church of Sant’Antonio Nuovo
The Hill of San Giusto
A few blocks walk from our hotel and situated in the center of the old city is the hill of San Giusto, or Saint Justus. The following interesting sights can be seen by planning a day trip to see them all, with ample time for breaks and lunch!
Churches, Basilicas and Cathedrals
Trieste has a plethora of churches of all Christian faiths to visit. The following are noteworthy and some are actually no longer active nor Catholic.
The Basilica of San Silvestro
The oldest church in Trieste, built in the twelfth century in Romanesque style, it contains many fourteenth century frescoes. It was closed when the Austro-Hungarian Empire conquered the area and converted into a church of Waldensians.
Trieste – Basilica San Silvestro
The Church of Santa Maria Maggiore
Currently owned by the region of Trieste, this once proud church was also a barracks and a prison. Now it is just a false collection place for Catholics dropping euros to light candles.
Trieste – Church Santa Maria Maggiore
Trieste – Church Santa Maria Maggiore
Trieste – Church Santa Maria Maggiore
Trieste – Church Santa Maria Maggiore
The Cathedral of San Giusto
Situated on the San Giusto hill and the via della Cathedral is the cathedral of San Giusto, also known as the Trieste Cathedral. The cathedral is home to some very impressive bells and for a modest sum, one can visit them after climbing the 90 or so steps in the bell tower.
Trieste – Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Trieste – Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Ascending the bell tower also reveals an interesting secret, it is not one structure built for the purpose of worship, but rather three.
Trieste – Roman Reliefs in the Tower of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Trieste – Roman Reliefs in the Tower of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Evidence of its ancient roots can be found while climbing the stairs and its history can be found written in the books of the gift shop or other history books.
Trieste – Tower of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Trieste – Tower Stairs of the Tower the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Trieste – Bells of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Trieste – Bells of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Adjacent to the cathedral is the Roman Propylaea. The view from the bell tower offers a great chance to see that layout of this important Roman structure from above.
Trieste – View from the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Trieste – Roman Propylaeum or Columns of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Trieste – Roman Propylaeum or Columns of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
The Castle of San Giusto
On this impressive hill and a short walk away from the Roman Propylaea and Cathedral also stands a castle, which was built on top of ancient remains of older castles.
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Tickets for Two
It has both an impressive armory museum and a Lapidary, which contains a myriad of ancient mosaic tiles and other artifacts.
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Entrance
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Map of Trieste
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – The Cathedrale
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – The Armory
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – The Armory
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Fireplace
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Elaborate Doorway
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Ramparts
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary – Mosaics
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary – Statues
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary – Statues and Reliefs
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary – Lintels
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary – Mosaics
Trieste Grand Canal
Being a port city, there are several things to see by the water, the Grand Canal is probably the first thing you will notice. It is actually a very nice place to have lunch, since there are a number of restaurants and cafes along the via Vincenzo Bellini, or the street where the Grand Canal is located.
Trieste – The Grand Canal – Church of Sant’Antonio Nuovo
Trieste – The Grand Canal – Restaurants
Trieste – The Grand Canal – Looking toward the Sea
Trieste – The Grand Canal – Boats
Trieste – The Grand Canal
Bronze Statues
There are several bronzes throughout the city, most celebrating famous individuals who have lived here for a time. Here are a few.
Surrounded on the three sides, by what are generally called the Hills of Piedmont (for which Superga Hill is one), sits the town of Chieri. A town that goes back to ancient times, due to the richness of the area and the Po river valley.
Chieri – Overlook from the Church of Sant Giorgio – Looking west toward Pino Torinese
From Turin it is easy to get to Chieri. One can either take a bus or take the Sfm1 train from Porta Susa, which runs about every thirty minutes, it is about a thirty minute ride to Chieri and the last stop for this train.
Chieri – Patti at the Tandem Bar on Vittorio Emanuele II
The main pedestrian way, via Vittorio Emanuele II, is a short walk from the train station and has numerous cafes and bars, here you can purchase a coffee or other drink, before you explore this quaint little town.
Town Of A Hundred Towers
During the early middle ages, the town once had numerous towers, especially built into the town wall, which were erected (like in many other towns in Italy) as defensive structures. Most of these were destroyed by Frederick Barbarossa’s army when they laid waste to the town in 1154. However, a few still remain, one of which can be seen below.
Chieri – Overlook from the Church of Sant Giorgio – Looking south and one of the remaining towers
Chieri – Overlook from the Church of Sant Giorgio – Looking southeast
Church of Sant Giorgio
This is the highest point and from here you can get a commanding view of the town, as seen in the two photographs above and the beginning photograph.
Chieri – Church of Sant Giorgio on the hill
Chieri – Church of Sant Giorgio tunnel to overlook
Other than that, there’s not much else to do in Chieri, except perhaps amble through its quiet streets and perhaps do some shopping. Here is a short slide show of some of the other things you can see while here.
Chieri – Tiny Side Street
Chieri – via Vittorio Emanuele II and the Arco Trionfale
Chieri – Church Don Bosco
Chieri – Piazza Mazzini and the Church of Sant Guglielmo
Chieri – Belltower from pathway below the Church of Sant Giorgio
Chieri – Arco Trionfale di Chieri – from Piazza Umberto
Chieri – Torre campanaria del Duomo di Chieri
Chieri – pedestrian way Vittorio Emanuele II
Chieri – small alleyway
Chieri – Piazza Cavour and the Church Ss Nomini Iesi Ac Sanctis Bernardino Et Rocho
Restaurants
With limited time we were only able to visit one restaurant while here, though several that came up on our search were not open until the evening. However, you will find the choice below to be exceptionally good, if and when you have the chance to visit this charming little town in Piedmont.
Trattoria della Erbe
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe
This trattoria sits on the corner of the Piazza Umberto I and via San Domenico, is fairly non-descript, but the food is authentic Sardinian and quite good.
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Caponata Siciliana
The menu changes daily and is posted on both a board outside and on the window next to the entrance. The menu is restrictive, as for most small establishments like this one, but everything we ordered was quite tasty and delicious. We started with some antipasti, a Caponata Siciliana, served with eggplant, onion, peppers, green olives and other goodies, not hot, but just warmed a bit. A slight tinge of vinegar mixed with the tomato based sauce was just right to get the taste buds to pucker for more. Our mains, or primis, came out a short time after and included the Levantine di Mare for Patti and for me, the Ravioli Sardi. Both were delicious and portioned correctly, just enough to leave a little room for dessert!
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Levantina di Mare
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Ravioli Sardi
The dessert was actually unexpectedly delicious and savory. A Sardinian Seada or Seadas, that can only be explained as a kind of dough pocket filled with assorted cheese, heated and served with honey. The sweetness of the honey and the saltiness of the cheese make for an unexpectedly tasty treat.
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Seada or Seadas
Top that off later with a caffè and Sambuca (to make caffè corretto of course) and you have the culmination of the great lunch.
All in all, Chieri makes a great day trip, if only just to walk around and soak up its quiet stillness, after being in Turin for a few weeks. If only to experience some great Sardinian food at this trattoria!
Well, we had just barely left Athens on our way to Naxos Island, when I discovered the feeling that my phone was not in my back pocket. That usually was not so alarming, since when traveling I often take it out and put it in my backpack, so I wouldn’t forget it in what ever form of transportation we were using. I got no further then reaching for my backpack’s zipper, when a dreadful calm came over me. I knew exactly where it was – and it was not with me.
I looked at my wife, with a short pause and a sigh, then told her that I had left my phone back at the hotel. She retorted immediately if I were sure, I responded that I was and that it was actually worse than I had originally thought. Not only had I forgotten my phone, but I had forgotten to take all our money and valuables out of the hotel room’s safe. Exasperated, I immediately informed our private shuttle driver what had happened and that we had to turn around. He assured us not to worry and that all we be alright.
We quickly called the hotel reception what had happened and they responded that they had been trying to get in touch with us. We then let the driver, who speaks very good English and of course Greek, to help explain the situation. We figured out all of the logistics, so that while he continued to take us to the airport, one of the driver’s colleagues drove to the hotel and picked up all of our stuff (after giving him the security code to the safe). With the hotel staff overseeing everything, they sealed our stuff in a bag and the driver was off to the airport. In less than an hour, we were back in possession of my phone and the rest of our travel documents and money. Wow, that was the first time that has ever happened.
In the meantime, while we were waiting and much to our delight, our flight had been delayed by an hour and twenty minutes. So, we felt comfortable that we had plenty of time to wait for the driver, then check in and check all our baggage for Naxos. As soon as the driver returned and we had all of our stuff, we obtained our tickets and started to check in our luggage at the self-service counter, waiting on line like everyone else. However, just as we were next in line, I noticed that the flight was no longer delayed, it was on time; how can that happen?!
Panorama of Naxos Hills
This left us about thirty minutes to finish baggage self-check in and board the aircraft. Undaunted we pushed on. Two of us were successful self checking our baggage, but as soon as the boarding time for the aircraft arrived, the software locked the rest of us out. What a nightmare. The attendant for Aegean Airlines quickly realized the issue and got us over to another counter so our bags got checked in immediately, with all the proper RUSH stickers applied to them, and we were on our way through security.
Naxos Island Hotel – Lobby
Naxos Island Hotel – Lobby
Naxos Island Hotel – Lobby
Naxos Island Hotel
Naxos Island Hotel
Naxos Island Hotel – View From Rooftop Terrace Restaurant
Needless to say, we made our flight and were soon enjoying the hospitality of our hosts at the Naxos Island Hotel. Since our flight was on time, we arrived before the appropriate check in time, but no worries, our rooms were ready and we were hustled to our rooms, bags and all by our hosts. After a quick refresh, we went to lunch. It was time to really be on vacation, but we were all still wondering, what else could go wrong? Unfortunately, things would uncharacteristically continue to happen to us.
Naxos – The Island
The largest of the Cyclodaes, Naxos is a large oblong island with a central mountainous region with peaks high enough to create their own weather. The island is known for its beaches, most of which are sandy, but the type of sand created from eroded rock and not from reefs, it is therefore fairly coarse to walk on and can become very hot in the sun, so bring your sandals.
Paros Island – From The Beach
The Beach – A View From The Water
The Blue Aegean Sea
Naxos City – From Airport Road
Cycling Naxos
For the adventurous, or those just wishing to get out and explore, Naxos offers some fairly good cycling. There are a few places where you can rent bicycles. However, if you are looking for something more advanced, you should reserve your equipment before you leave.
Cycling Naxos – Gabi, Tristan and Erick – Day 1
We rented our road bikes from Naxos Bikes and were not disappointed. Though a bit dated, all of the bikes performed as stated. The owners were eager to supply enough tubes, pumps and other equipment (helmets) as needed. The only thing we had to bring were our own clothes, shoes and Garmins. They delivered and picked up right at our hotel for a modest fee, so we didn’t have to worry about getting into town prior to our ride.
We really enjoyed touring Naxos, though I would suggest planning your route before you leave your hotel, as not all roads are suitable for road bikes (if you make a wrong turn, you will see what I mean).
Naxos – The City
The modern part of Naxos is pretty little port city built into a small hill that of course has a church and castle built on top of it. The hill has very interesting narrow winding streets that one can peruse and occasionally shop at the stores that dot the way.
Naxos, Naxos – The City
The Venetian Castle of Naxos is not much to look at, and from what we could tell, not open to the public, since all the entrances appear locked, signed and boarded up.
Naxos, Naxos – Alleyway To Castle
Naxos, Naxos – Alleyway To Castle
Naxos, Naxos – Alleyway To Castle
Naxos, Naxos – Alleyway To Castle – Old Market Entrance
Naxos, Naxos – Alleyway To Castle
Naxos, Naxos – Alleyway To Castle
Naxos, Naxos – The Castle
Naxos, Naxos – The Castle
Naxos, Naxos – The Castle
Naxos, Naxos – The Castle
Naxos, Naxos – The Castle – Walking Through Part Of The Castle
The Catholic Cathedral at the top is open to the public, but when we arrived it was during lunch and we were not going to stay until later in the afternoon for them to reopen. It was just a passing thought, since our real intent was to find a place to each lunch ourselves.
The Temple of Apollo
The interesting form that we first came in contact with at our hotel has an actual presence on the island. The Temple of Apollo are the remains of a structure to the god Apollo built by Lygdamis the tyrant in the sixth century BCE on a peninsula just off the harbor of Naxos City. In fact he never actually completed it. Before he could do so, he was conquered by the Spartan army in 524 BCE and never saw power again.
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo
Due to its age and no doubt having been plundered over the millennia, all that stands after repeated excavations and reconstructions, is the gate itself. It stands with its lintel and two sides upright on a small outcropping of rock just to the north of the city against the stark blue Aegean sky.
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo
Naxos, Naxos – And Its Jetty From The Temple of Apollo
Naxos, Naxos – The Harbor
Naxos, Naxos – From Walkway
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo – Statue outside
Our Day Tour
Naxos being such a large island, requires you to at least spend a day exploring areas other than its beaches. We used Naxos Luxury Transport as our Tour Guides to explore a few sites we wanted to see, as well as some others that were suggested by our guide. The entire tour was six hours, most of which was in a van, but included many stops, including Sangry or Sangri (also known as the Temple of Demeter), Manolis Pottery, Chalkio and the Citron distillery, the Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue, the town of Apeiranthos and the Eggares Olive Oil Museum.
It was right around this time that my wife Patti became very sick with bronchitis. To the point at which, she had lost almost her entire voice before we reached the Olive Oil museum in Eggares. What ever dark cloud or spell we were under, it appeared to have followed us into the Naxos hills. I started to wonder, what else could befall us?
The Temple Of Sangri
Perhaps a forty-five minute drive from Naxos is the Temple of Sangri. It is also called the Temple of Demeter or the Temple of Kore, there are also signs that the cult of Apollo may have used the site.
Our Day Tour – Sangri Temple
It is an archaic temple that was built on Naxos in the six century BCE. For a Greek temple it is square, rather than the usual rectangular shape. Models that reconstruct its initial design call for a smart, efficient building using internal columns of varying lengths, so that a full marble, translucent roof and ceiling could be accommodated. This provided soft, even internal lighting during the daytime, so that little if any additional lighting was needed.
Our Day Tour – Sangri – Tickets For Two
Our Day Tour – Sangri
Our Day Tour – Sangri
Our Day Tour – Sangri
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Hillside
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
The Pottery Of Limpertas Manolis
As any typical tour would inject, we visited the local pottery establishment of Limpertas Manolis. His apparent claim to fame was in creating eccentric, yet useful oil decanters and other novel vessels to store things. He also makes the odd spoon holder, vase, cups and saucers.
Our Day Tour – Limpertas Manolis Pottery
Clearly an artist, since his small place was strewn with all kinds of broken and forgotten pieces. Let alone his clear penchant for throwing the odd clay ball at the wall, for which was clearly evident by the definitive and unnatural accumulation growing from the vertical surface from where he sat.
Our Day Tour – Limpertas Manolis Pottery
Our Day Tour – Limpertas Manolis Pottery
Our Day Tour – Limpertas Manolis Pottery
Distillery Vallindras
In Chalkio, or Chalki, as some prefer; you can find the distillery M. G. Vallindras. This is an old firm which makes an aperitif widely known throughout Greece, known as Kitron, it comes in three varieties (and colors), depending on the sugar and alcohol content.
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery
It is a very interesting distillery to visit and learn how this special Greek aperitif is made using Star Anise and other plants. Well worth a stop, if only to pick up a few bottles of their timeless spirits. Most will find the green and yellow varieties more to their liking, they are not as harsh or dry as the clear variety. The taste is more austere than a Molinari Extra or a Ramazzotti, but pleasant after a dinner nonetheless.
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery – Alembic
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery – Old Bottles
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery – Two of Three Variaties
The Flerio Melanes Kouros
Probable one of the more obscure places to visit archeologically on Naxos is the unfinished Kouros. Located not far from the intersection of the Naxou-Monis and Naxou-Chalkiou roads, you should find a small place to park, it’s rather rural so it should be no problem.
Naxos – The Koyros or Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue
If you are in the right place, there will be some signs indicating the way.
Naxos – The Walkway to Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue
Naxos – The Koyros or Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue
Naxos – The Walkway to Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue
Naxos – The Koyros or Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue
Once found, the Flerio Melanes Kouros is a small walk away up a paved walkway. It appears to reside in a small stone fenced yard, but cannot leave since one of its legs are broken.
Naxos – The Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue
Naxos – The Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue
If you have the time there are a few other things to see in the area. The Faragi Kouros is not far from here and is close to other stones that apparently were chosen for other works, but never started.
Apeiranthos
A small town in the hills of Naxos, obtainable only by car, is worth a trip, if only to see its marbled streets and pedestrian ways. If you are on a tour, its a good place to stop for lunch and wander the streets until you are ready to eat. There are many interesting shops to explore and some novel architecture to experience. An hour or two would suffice in order to do both.
Apeiranthos, Naxos – The marble walkways
Apeiranthos, Naxos – Old Stone Arch
Apeiranthos, Naxos – Looking Out At The Hills
Apeiranthos, Naxos
Naxos – Another Old Grainery Windmill
Apeiranthos, Naxos – Main Pedestrian Way
Apeiranthos, Naxos – Marble, marble everywhere
Apeiranthos, Naxos – The middle of town
Eggares Olive Oil Museum
A small private museum showing the discipline of olive oil making can be found not more that a half hour drive from Naxos harbor. The Eggares Olive Oil Museum has a small collection of old oil presses, as well as other tools and the complete history of their firm.
Eggares, Naxos – The Eggares Olive Oil Museum
The museum continues to sell olive oil and olives that it produces in the gift shop. Unfortunately we did not purchase any, since most of the products are not bottled and perhaps not suitable for a return flight. So, instead of taking a chance, we opted out of bringing a sample home.
Eggares, Naxos – The Eggares Olive Oil Museum – Old Mill Stone
Eggares, Naxos – The Eggares Olive Oil Museum – Winch Used To Turn The Millstone
Eggares, Naxos – The Eggares Olive Oil Museum – Olive Millstone
Eggares, Naxos – The Eggares Olive Oil Museum – Olive Millstone
Restaurants
The beach where our hotel was situated was well endowed with restaurants. What follows is only a sample of what is available, but all have very good menus and delicious food.
Taverna Authentic Greek Cuisine Restaurant
Though we had reservations at another restaurant, we had all decided that we were hungry and had to eat a little early.
So, we headed back down to the harbor from our sojourn up the hill of Naxos and its castle. There we found the Taverna Authentic Greek Cuisine Restaurant, which as can be imagined, serves numerous authentic Greek dishes.
Naxos, Naxos – Taverna Authentic Greek Cuisine Restaurant – Patti, Ericka, Gabi and Dana
Soon after we arrived, we ate lunch at the Taverna O Giannoulis and enjoyed a very nice meal with water, wine and all the supplements. They have a great Greek menu, the service is very quick and the seating outside is perfect (though we went in June, so heat was never an issue).
Taverna O’ Giannoulis
Taverna O’ Giannoulis – Kitchen
Taverna O’ Giannoulis
Taverna O’ Giannoulis
Amorginos Tavern
While on our Naxos day tour, we stopped in the town of Apeiranthos, the one where all the streets and pedestrian ways are made of marble. One of two places recommended by our guide, we chose it for its menu and selection of foods.
Apeiranthos, Naxos – The Amorginos Tavern
There is plenty of outside seating, though we sat just indoors, in order to avoid the midday sun. The service was pretty good, though the food was served randomly, apparently whenever it was ready. Which is good if you ordered something hot, but if you expect your food to come out all at once for your group, you may want to go elsewhere. The food was excellent, as was the local wine and the prices were very reasonable.
The Relax Cafe
No ride is complete without a coffee stop, and perhaps a bite to eat. After our second morning ride, we decided that we would stop in town, Naxos, and visit the Relax Cafe on the water; not only to enjoy the view, the wind and surf, but also some good coffee and what turned out to be amazing vegetable and cheese omelets (the secret it appears, is not just throwing the freshly cut veggies into the scrambled eggs, but to barbecue or fry them a bit first, infusing them with the burnt taste, yu-ummm).
Highly recommended place for breakfast, unless of course you are timid about calories, as avid cyclist, we aren’t. Enjoy!
Del Mar Cafe
Situated almost in the middle of our strand is the Del Mar Cafe. An Italian restaurant that caters to all needs, especially those nagging Italian taste buds that some of us have. Angela and Marco moved from Italy eight years ago and are excellent hosts, they will ensure your meal is prepared to your expectations. We went here several times for lunch and dinner and used their beach services as well; their wines are also very good, we were never disappointed.
Naxos – A Sunset
Wines
The following wines we enjoyed while dining in Naxos. Most are inexpensive wines, all are from Greece or the neighboring islands and are completely drinkable and satisfying.
This blog article is split into three separate acts. Not necessarily in homage to the Greek tradition of plays, but more that our trip turned out to be more of a Greek tragedy. A milder version of one of course, but one nonetheless.
We do not know if it’s the land of bad karma, bad juju or what, but for the first time in our long lineage of trips, almost everything that could go wrong did. That is not to say, there is something wrong with Greece as a whole, it could just be us (and probably is), or we just may happened to have had a bad sequence of events occur. However, always being guided by the premise that bad luck runs in threes, we are now beginning to think that is just an arbitrary number, it appears it can also be all sixes and sevens.
To add some preamble here, there were six of us traveling from three different parts of the globe. My wife and I from Italy, Ericka and Gabriel (Gabi) from Germany and our two sons, Dana and Tristan, from the United States.
Flight from Milan Malpensa to Athens
The first sign there would be any trouble was a line of storms that developed the day of travel and stalled along the east coast. Since they were flying into JFK, both of my sons had their flights canceled. They were able to get booked again for the next day, after having wasted their entire Friday sitting in an airport or on an airplane. Luckily, the new logistics worked and they made it to Athens a day late and one vacation day less, but with all of their luggage.
Once altogether, we learned that our son Dana and our son-in-law Gabi had both gotten colds, so right away we were thinking of the possibility of Covid. Luckily, that was not the case either, they were just feeling the effects of common colds brought on by loosening restrictions.
Athens – Group Photograph
Flowers – Athens
Flowers – Athens
Flowers – Athens
Flowers – Athens
In any event, we pressed on with our vacation. The next day, upon trying to enter a museum, we quickly discovered that I had purchased a five day pass for everyone, which of course did not start until our last full day in Athens. Not sure how I did that, but I just chalked it up to old age and moved on. Luckily, nothing else happened to us the next few day in Athens.
Athens – The City
The modern part of Athens is typical city for a city of central Europe, containing a core with upscale shopping surrounded by environs of more modest means and services. In some places it looks like it is in desperate need of planning and repairs. But for the most part things appear to work quite well by Greek standards.
Athens – Memorial for the Unknown Soldier
Athens – Shopping
Athens – Side streets
Athens – Shopping
Restaurants – Plaza Dimopratiriou
The Acropolis from below
Athens at night
The Acropolis at night
Athens – Hadrian’s Arch – Ericka, Dana and Tristan
The Great Library of Hadrian
No visit to Athens complete without seeing the changing of the guard at the National Memorial of the Unknown Soldier.
Lycabettus Hill
Located northeast of the city center is the hill of Lycabettus, atop which sits the Church of Saint George. About a thirty minute walk from the Monument of the Unknown Soldier you can reach the cable car at Lykavittós and for a modest sum, a ride to the top.
Athens Panorama
The views are pretty good from this vantage point, so you will want to pick a clear day. It is a very good place for a panoramic photograph of Athens.
Athens – Lycabettus Hill – Church and Observation Patio
Athens – Lycabettus Hill – Church of Saint George – Group Photograph
You can also visit the church and then have a relaxing drink at one of the many bars on this hilltop.
The Acropolis
The Acropolis is a historic site with few equals. Perched atop a hill overlooking the rest of Athens, this great structure must have been magnificent in its day. Entering through the Beulé Gate, you ascend the Propylaea with the Temple of Athena Nike to your right.
The Acropolis – Parthenon – From Lower Athens
Temple of Athena Nike
The temple stands to the right of the entrance, almost as a sentinel to this very religious place. Situated to the right of the Propylaea, it is the most fully iconic temple in the Acropolis. Unfortunately what we see today is a reconstruction of what it must have looked like before the Turks destroyed the temple in 1686.
The Acropolis – Temple of Athena Nike
The Acropolis – From the Propylaea or Gatehouse – Temple of Athena Nike
The Parthenon
Under a constant state of preservation, repairs and reconstruction the Parthenon is well signed and for the most part well protected from the tourists. It is an impressive structure, when placed behind the backdrop of history, being built more than 2500 years ago.
The Acropolis – Parthenon
The Acropolis – Parthenon
The Parthenon
There are a few additional points of interest below the Acropolis, but no less important.
Sanctuary of Dionysos Eleuthereus
The Acropolis Museum – Area of the Dörpfeld Excavations
The Acropolis Museum – Area of the Dörpfeld Excavations
The Acropolis Museum – Large Statue
The Acropolis Museum – Large Statue
The Erechtheion
My favorite is the Erechtheion and the Porch of the Maidens, also know as the Caryatid Porch. It is one of the only, if not few, buildings in the Acropolis that does not have a symmetrical architecture. It is theorized this either had to do with the numerous cults that built the structure, or the uneven ground it was built on, making a classic Greek structure impossible.
The Erechtheion and Porch of Maidens
The Acropolis – The Erechtheion – Porch of Maidens
The Erechtheion and Porch of Maidens
The Erechtheion and Porch of Maidens
The Erechtheion and Porch of Maidens
The Erechtheion and Porch of Maidens
From the southeast side the asymmetry is easily seen, with the Porch of the Maidens displaying its most iconic feature.
The Erechtheion – Porch of Maidens – Southeast View
The Agora
Not far from the slopes of the Acropolis is the Agora, or the central meeting place for all ancient Athenians. Primarily of religious significance, but also used for business, politics and artisans. The main street was called the Panathenaic Way, which ran through the Agora to the main gate of Athens.
Grounds of the Agora, Looking at the Temple of Hephaestus
Grounds of the Agora
Looking at the Agora and Stoa of Attalos
Stoa of Attalos
The Stoa of Attalos was central to the Agora and primarily used as a place to conduct business. Stoae are buildings constructed with a portico, as a defense against the sun and weather. It was reconstructed in the 1950s, using many of the original pieces, especially on the north side of the building, but reinforced in the basement area in order to be properly repurposed the building as a museum. Here is where the trades people, artisans and shop keepers could sell their wares and conduct business.
The Stoa of Attalos – The Facade
The portico serves as an outdoor museum, while the upstairs serves that same purpose, but provides that more indoor feeling. Many of the pieces are statues and busts of high ranking individuals in ancient Greek society.
The Stoa of Attalos – Diorama of Buildings
The Stoa of Attalos – Head of Alexander
The Stoa of Attalos – Diorama of Buildings, the Agora and Temple
The Stoa of Attalos – The Portico
The Stoa of Attalos – The Portico
The Stoa of Attalos – Museum Works
The Temple of Hephaestus
Probably the most well preserved structure on the grounds of the Agora, even parts of the roof are still intact, is the Temple of Hephaestus. Considering its age and that fact that it was never destroyed during a war or plundered for building materials, it stands nimbly on the grounds of the Agora as a testament to Greek architecture.
Grounds of the Agora – The Temple of Hephaestus
Walking around the structure one can easily take photographs of its interior and columns.
The Temple of Hephaestus
The Temple of Hephaestus – Columns and Inside Details
The Temple of Hephaestus – Ceiling
The Temple of Hephaestus – Columns
The Odeon of Agrippa
Unfortunately not much of the Odeon of Agrippa structure still exists, with the exception of its magnificent columns. Built in relief, the four columns depicted giants and tritons, all of which are heavily damaged. Initially designed and built as a hall to hold performances in, its structure was not designed like other buildings to endure the ages. It fell into ruin fairly quickly and was rebuilt at some point in the second century and repurposed later as a lecture hall, only to be destroyed by a Herulian raid in 267 CE.
Statues at the entrance to the Odeon and Agrippa
Restaurants
As with any large European city restaurants abound in Athens and it offers a wide range of cuisines and options for anyone’s appetite. With some proper planning and reservations you should have no problem enjoying Greek dining during your vacation. Failure to do so will in most cases result in long wait times and exploring other options.
The Arcadia
We ate lunch at the Arcadia and enjoyed a very nice meal after a morning of exploring Athens.
The Arcadia Restaurant – Greek Salad
The Arcadia Restaurant – Gabi, Dana and Erick
The Arcadia Restaurant – Patti, Tristan and Ericka
The Arcadia Restaurant – Soup
Maiandros
Reservations are a must for this restaurant. The Maiandros Restaurant gets high marks for excellent traditional Greek cuisine and price. If you want to take advantage of its fine cooking and still have money left in your pocket, look no further than this restaurant. I would suggest ordering the Stifado, if you are meat lover (which I am not, but how could I resist), you will not be disappointed.
The Maiandros Restaurant – Store Front
The Maiandros Restaurant – Menu
The Maiandros Restaurant – Stifado
The Maiandros Restaurant – Stifado pic
The Maiandros Restaurant – Greek Salad
The Maiandros Restaurant – Stifado
PalioTetradio
Perched atop a long staircase on the slopes of the Acropolis sits the Palio Tetradio. This little alley and staircase is packed with restaurants and is more of a tourist attraction and known for its ambiance, than its food and service.
The Palio Tetradio Restaurant
The Palio Tetradio Restaurant – Vegetable Soup
The Palio Tetradio Restaurant – Pork Souvlaki
View From Out Table – The Palio Tetradio Restaurant
However, they do have live music and since several of the other restaurants have their own musicians, it can feel like dueling musical talents as some points during your dinner.
The Palio Tetradio Restaurant – Musicians
Wines
The following wines we enjoyed while dining in Athens. You don’t necessarily have to purchase a very expensive wine, most house wine is completely drinkable and satisfying.
Wines – Einomaypo Reserve 2018 – Front Label
Wines – Einomaypo Reserve 2018 – Back Label
Wines – ΜOΣXOΦIΛEPO ZAXAPIA – Moschofilero Zacharia 2021 – White – Front Label
Wines – ΜOΣXOΦIΛEPO ZAXAPIA – Moschofilero Zacharia 2021 – White – Back Label
Wines – Kτήμα ΓΕΡΟΒΑΣΙΛΕΙΟΥ – GEROVASILEIOU Estate 2019 – Red – Front Label
Wines – Kτήμα ΓΕΡΟΒΑΣΙΛΕΙΟΥ – GEROVASILEIOU Estate 2019 – Red – Back Label
A short drive, just outside Torre Pellice, is the small commune of Angrogna. Situated high up on the hill. Overlooking Torre Pellice, Angrogna commands a very nice view of the valley floor and hides a local secret in the form of a tiny underground chapel by a mostly unknown religious sect.
The Waldensians
The Waldensians were and are a pre-reformation sect that was extremely persecuted by the Roman Catholic Church as heretical. Therefore, they had to take their religious practices in many places underground, in order to escape discrimination, capture, torture and in many cases death. In Angrogna you will find one such hide out, a small cave on a mountainside used as a chapel. Here members would secretly meet in order to carry out their many religious practices without the notice of the church or local onlookers.
The Geology Close To The Waldensian Chapel – Craggy And Full Of Boulders
The Waldensian Chapel
The cave is a poor collection of boulders left by the ice age that apparently produced a cave structure suitable enough for such practices. It is difficult to find, if they were not signs and an entrance stairway to its opening. Even then, the entrance is wet, a very tight fit for most present individuals, and thus requires a degree climbing to actually reach the inner chamber.
Direction To The Waldensian Chapel – Ghieisa D’La Tana
Trail Sign To The Waldensian Chapel
Modern Sign For The Waldensian Church
Entrance To The Waldensian Chapel
Sam, Our Host, Walking Down The Stairs To The Waldensian Chapel
The Waldensian Chapel Entrance
The Waldensian Chapel Inner Cave From Entrance
The Waldensian Chapel – Light From Above
The Waldensian Chapel – The Chapel Altar Lit By A Sunbeam
The Waldensian Chapel – Chapel Altar And Inside – Using A Flash
The Waldensian Chapel – The Altar – Using A Flash
The inner chamber is a small, wet and very dark room about five by ten meters. It includes a small makeshift altar, but nothing else. In its day, it must have been something to experience during a mass.
The School Of Odin-Bertot
Very close by and less than a few hundred meter walk from the hidden chapel, is the School of Odin-Bertot.
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot – Outside View of the School Room Entrance
Reminiscent of one room school houses in many other rural areas, this one specifically served the mountain people of the area. Since the above link explains all, a few more photographs of the interior and the museum are all that’s in order at this point.
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot – School House Room
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot – Another View Of The School House Room
How To Get There
There are several ways to get there, either via the School of Odin, or by the parking area further away. Since maps are worth a thousands words, here are two that you will find once there, but they also show the overall area so you can use this with what ever map, app or device you have to cross reference your way there.
Map For The Waldensian Church And School Of Odin
Local Map Of Historic Sites
Directions
Between Torre Pellice and Luserna San Giovanni you should find road 161. At the traffic circle, take the road towards Angrogna. You should also see signs for the Guieiza d’la Tana, the Chabas and the Vaccera. Keep following road to the main town square, then continue for about two kilometers and you will arrive in the hamlet of Serre. Turn right, you should see the beginning of the path and the signs “Chanforan” and “Odin”. Walk the path, following the sign for Ghieisa D’La Tana. You will eventually come to a wooden railing with the words Entrata on it, walk down the steps, you have arrived at the temple.
For those wanting and willing to see the Sacra di San Michele and experience this great church and its views, one must hike the three or so kilometers and one kilometer ascent in order to really enjoy what the builders had accomplished here. Not only is it a feat of Middle-Ages engineering and stubbornness, its shear existence defies rationality, and so may I add hiking up to it. Well maybe not exactly, but you should be prepared. We saw many individuals when we were descending wearing the wrong type of shoes, etc. More on that later.
Sant’ Ambrogio – Getting There
A thirty three minute train ride from Turin’s train station Porta Nuova will get you to Sant’ Ambrogio and the beginning of your climb. Let me add, before we begin, that you may drive up to the church; but then you would be among the majority of people there and just mere tourists.
The train station – San Ambrogio
The train station is spartan and leaves you off on track one to enter this small town or hamlet directly. Returning you will have to find the stairwell to the right of the train station and walk under the tracks.
First sight of Sacra di San Michele from train station – Sant Ambrogio
Welcome Sign – Sant Ambrogio
Hiking Trail Signs – Sant Ambrogio
Sacra di San Michele from inside the town – Sant Ambrogio
A sleepy town on Pasquetta (day after Easter) – Sant Ambrogio
A view from the Church of Saint Giovanni Vincenzo – Sant Ambrogio
The trail starts and the Church of Saint Roch – Sant Ambrogio
Follow the signs for two hours – Sant Ambrogio
We arrived the day after Easter Sunday, or as the remembrance in Italy has it for Roman Catholics, Pasquetta [1]Also called, Lunedì dell’ Angelo, which is meant to remember the women of the sepulcher, including Mary Magdalene, who were comforted by an angel when they returned to Jesus’ tomb and found it … Continue reading The town was more or less empty, so our ideas about a quick climb up and back and an early lunch soon vanished.
On the way up, the rooftops of the town – Sant Ambrogio
The walk through the town was short and without incident, in fact, we were mostly accompanied by the individuals who left the train with us, residents of the town having already left for the long weekend or enjoying amenities inside and their extra day off.
Parco Naturale Orsiera – Sentiero Trail 502
Using the Sentiero Trail 502, or TOS 502, we quickly left the town and started our ascent up the most north-eastern mountain or hill of the Parco Naturale Orsiera. An almost one kilometer ascent for three kilometers with slopes ranging in steepness of three to twenty percent, and I would conjecture most were in the double digits.
This 3 km rises 1000 meters and takes about 1 and a half to 2 hours to hike – Trail Map
The trail was for the most part cobbled with round and larger stones, some which have a remarkable green color, are shiny and very slippery. Proper shoes are important, though it is possible to navigate the trail with tennis shoes or sneakers.
A welcoming sign, this is the right trail – Sentiero Trail 502
The Trail has Cobble and other Stones all the way up – Sentiero Trail 502
Patti navigating the trail – Sentiero Trail 502
Patti on another turn – Sentiero Trail 502
Sant Ambrogio Panorama – Sentiero Trail 502
At a higher elevation, overview of Sant Ambrogio – Sentiero Trail 502
Sant Ambrogio from Sentiero Trail 502
Patti still climbing – Sentiero Trail 502
The flowers on the trail – Sentiero Trail 502
The flowers on the trail – Sentiero Trail 502
The flowers on the trail – Sentiero Trail 502
Coming to first ending of trail – Sentiero Trail 502
Upon exiting the trail at a collection of houses, and an interim point in the hike, you will find a large commemorative stone.
Commemoration Wheel 2000 – Sentiero Trail 502
Then you will make a hairpin turn and look up, only to see that your hike up is STILL NOT OVER!
Still a long way up to go – Sentiero Trail 502
Checking the signs indicate approximately another kilometer to hike, which took us about twenty minutes.
Trail Sign, another .8 km to go – Sentiero Trail 502
After the last more modest climb you will walk onto a road, where all the other tourists are walking into from the parking lot. The attraction has a large sign explaining the layout of the church and its grounds.
Sign at entry to Sacra di San Michele
Sacra di San Michele
Once near the church of Sacra di San Michele, the magnificent views are apparent. With its perch high on a rocky crag, the church has a commanding view of the valley below.
Panorama before church at end of trail
Walking up to the church you will find a small building to the right that sells postcards, other tourist paraphernalia and entrance tickets. Once purchased, a turnstile to the left has a QR code reader that will let you enter, then you must start climbing stairs, an unwelcome sign after our long journey.
Tickets for Two – Sacra di San Michele – Sant Ambrogio
Stairs inside – Sacra di San Michele
More stairs – Sacra di San Michele
Erick with Covid mask on ascending more stairs – Sacra di San Michele
Again more stairs – Sacra di San Michele
The remainder of our visit consisted of just enjoying the church and the beautiful views. My wife chose this day because the weather promised to be wonderful, we were not disappointed, it was sunny and in the low 60°s Fahrenheit, perfect for hiking.
Finally, the entry – Sacra di San Michele
Mosaics on walls – Sacra di San Michele
The main altar – Sacra di San Michele
Commemoration of the Crucifixion – Sacra di San Michele
Inside the church – Sacra di San Michele
Portraits – Sacra di San Michele
Large Fresco – Sacra di San Michele
Altar – Sacra di San Michele
Spectacular views, by the entrance of the church doors – Sacra di San Michele
Erick and a view of the Cottian Alps by the church entrance – Sacra di San Michele
The end of the valley and a view toward Turin
The Cottian Alps and the valley floor looking towards Susa, taken by the church entrance – Sacra di San Michele
Patti and a view of the Cottian Alps by the church entrance – Sacra di San Michele
The Susa Valley and Cottian Alps from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele
Looking across the valley from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele
The ruins and Cottian Alps from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele
More ruins and alpine foothills from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele
Leaving we took our last look up at the great church and descended along the more difficult trail, due to its increase in steepness, it promised to cut some time off our descent, which it did.
Going down is a bit more treacherous and only 2.5 km, but still takes about 1 and a half hours to hike – Trail Map
However, the first part of this trail is VERY steep and not for anyone ill-prepared or wearing the wrong hiking apparel, so caution! We were actually having second thoughts until we realized it was more difficult to go back up, then to press on and continue downward.
A view of the church descending – Sacra di San Michele
We arrived back in Sant’ Ambrogio almost five hours later, hungry and fairly tired from our experience. Once on the train, we relaxed and started to compare which part of our legs hurt more. However, we were both happy we were able to meet our sacred vertical pilgrimage with a great sense of accomplishment. It was our first big hike of the season, hopefully not our last and if anyone is thinking of doing this or a similar hike, keep the following in mind, we will next time.
Prepare for your hike, research the route and understand how technical it is
Bring a water bottle, the trail has two or three places to refill, this is especially important
Bring lunch or something to eat, there is nothing above except some vending by the ticket counter, but do not count on that
Wear the correct clothing (light and layered) and shoes, hiking shoes would be preferred but thick soled tennis shoes or sneakers will do
Pace yourself, unless you are young be mindful of your body and do not over-exert, you do not want to get into medical trouble on that trail, it will take some time for them to get to you
Go in good weather, unless it’s your intent as an experienced hikers not to
And last but not least.., enjoy yourself, there are amazing things to see and hear on the trail, the flowers and birds are in abundance.
Also called, Lunedì dell’ Angelo, which is meant to remember the women of the sepulcher, including Mary Magdalene, who were comforted by an angel when they returned to Jesus’ tomb and found it empty.
There are a few cloisters in Naples worth visiting, if you have the time and interest. Since it was at the end of our trip and we were lacking time, we chose the Cloister of Santa Chiara to visit, which sits right in the middle of the Historic Center and not far from all of the shopping, which we were interested in doing as well.
Cloister – Tickets For Two
Chiostro di Santa Chiara
The cloister is behind a large church which suffered greatly during the allied bombings of Naples in the 1940s. Apparently the church took most of the damaged and the cloister was left, more of less, intact for us to enjoy today.
Needing to get out of Naples, if only for a day, we took the train south to Salerno in discovery of yet another ancient city along the Italian Mediterranean Sea. A short train ride of only a half an hour puts you there, three blocks in from from its coastal port and jetties that border the bright blue Tyrrhenian Sea.
Waterfront – Salerno, Italy
Waterfront – Salerno, Italy
Waterfront – Salerno, Italy
Waterfront – Salerno, Italy
Waterfront – Salerno, Italy
Waterfront – Salerno, Italy
The City – Salerno, Italy
Piazza Vittorio Veneto – Salerno, Italy
Train Station – Salerno, Italy
Lungomare – Salerno, Italy
We spent a leisurely Monday walking the streets of this nicely kept secret. It is definitely not a tourist destination and you will see few if any here, those preferring Capri, Almalfi Coast and other must-see places on someone else’s list.
Benedictine Aqueducts
The city has one of the most impressive examples of the architecture of the Ogival Arch, which in the ninth century was innovative and rare. It was so uncommon, that superstition around the arches and their use built up over the years, to the point where the town’s people were convinced it was the work of the devil, or at the very least, demons from hell. In any case, the aqueducts were built by and supplied water to the local Benedictine Monastery, and later to a convent in Piantanova.
Benedictine Aqueducts – Salerno, Italy
The Basilica of Salerno is not far from the aqueducts and the Benedictine Monastery. Its most striking feature is the tower, which was built in the Arab-Norman style. The palazzo inside contains a small fountain and its archways are reminiscent of the Florentine style.
Tower – Basilica of Salerno – Salerno, Italy
Basilica of Salerno – Salerno, Italy
Basilica of Salerno – Salerno, Italy
Courtyard and Tower – Basilica of Salerno – Salerno, Italy
Basilica of Salerno – Salerno, Italy
A quintessential thing to do, is to walk along Salerno’s Lungomare Trieste and enjoy the beautiful weather and seaside. This exceptional boardwalk continues straight for about five miles and has numerous places to sit and relax among the beautiful palm trees that were planted there long ago.
Lungomare – Salerno, Italy
Restaurants
Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Perhaps one of the best places I have ever eaten. The Pasta Genovese here is absolutely to die for, I have found none better in Naples and the surrounding area, and I have tried many. The wine list is also very good and you will have no problem selecting a delicious local varietal that grows on the slopes of Vesuvius for your gastronomic pleasure.
Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Inside – Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Patti at Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Erick at Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Insalata Mista – Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Montevetrano, Colli di Salerno, 2008 – Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Pasta Genovese – Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Eggplant in Sauce – Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Suckling Pig, Mashed Potatoes and Beets – Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Hazelnut Semifreddo – Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
