Some time ago, probably during the hot days of Summer, we decided it might be a good idea to visit Londonpre-Brexit. Not so much to say that we remember when London was part of the European Union (EU), but more that we expect with the forthcoming travel restrictions it will become so what more difficult to enter and exit, and also expect prices for commodities there, like real Scotch Whiskey, to become more expensive over time.
Train Tickets for Two
Victoria Station – London, England
Our Hotel
We are staying at the Conrad, ostensibly a five-star Hilton Hotel. However, I must say, after being here for less than a day I would say it’s more of a 4.5 star hotel (it’s the little things you know).
Eating
For our first night, we naively walked into the Colosseo Italian Restaurant figuring we would get something small, like a soup and salad, or something similar. I know, we just got off the plane from Turin and we went to an Italian restaurant! Oh well, that reminds me I have a longing for Chinese food too. But I digress.
The Colosseo Restaurant – Italian Dining at its Best
The waiter seated us quickly enough and got us our drinks, while we perused the menu. That was it for me, once I started reading all the good stuff, and dishes we would not normally find in Turin, it was the Minestrone Soup and the Penne with Broccoli. Later I also ordered the Torrincino dessert with Sambuca and Café (espresso). Did I say just soup and salad? And the food was just excellent.
Some Sights of London
For our night stroll, we chose to head down to Big Ben, even though we know it’s still shrouded, due to the renovations going on. For now we leave you with some photographs of our leisurely walk.
Looking toward House of Commons
Westminster Abbey – Parliament Square
Moon over House of Commons
Westminster Abbey
Westminster Abbey
We will be in England for some time, so please look forward to many more posts! Until then, CHEERS!
Nice and the Côte d’Azur conjure up thoughts of beautiful weather, money (rich people) and vacation. It is a destination that many people have on their bucket-list of things to do; if not for the casinos, then at least for the sun and crystal clear light-blue sea. It was after some trepidation on my part and a pause in our other travels, that we decided to go to Nice for another short holiday.
Nice – Front of Main Train Station
Nice – Inside Main Train Station
Whenever possible, we travel via train since it is more cost-effective and has one of the better, if not the best, Eco-friendly footprints. The trip took us surprisingly just over five hours from Turin, most likely due to a mixture of train schedules and the routes involved. However, one of the advantages of being retired is time is the one commodity you have in abundance.
Nice Airport – Looking at Welcome Sign
Nice Airport – Arrivals
Nice Airport – Ericka Waiting To Board Tram
Since this was not actually a last-minute decision, we were still able to use a modest amount of planning and coordinated the trip with our daughter Ericka, who joined us the following day. She flew in and using the Côte d’Azur(I must say) fabulous metro/tram system which now links up with both terminals at the airport, we were able to meet her at Terminal 1.
Tram Line on Avenue Jean Médicin
Our choice of Nice was due to many factors. First the train station is large and one can travel to many different places taking advantage of both regional and special coastal trains. It also happened to be in the center of the Côte d’Azur, the famous vacation coast which attracts visitors and tourists from both France, Europe and beyond. Nice has been expanding their metro and transportation system and it seems to be paying off; it did for us. If you are staying for any amount of time you can buy a 10-trip (not day) transportation pass for 10€ (that’s a 30 percent discount or 4 free trips). Though we did not use them all, we used enough to do better than break even. We then handed them to someone at the hotel, so they could use the rest.
Our Hotel
We stayed at the Hotel Belle Meunière, a short two-minute walk from the main train station and our domicile for our travels. Though our room was not much to look at per se, one has to understand the hotel is actually under renovations. The outside of the hotel is very well-kept and seems to be an old historical landmark of some kind, since they have obviously tried to keep it sound. The inside however, is somewhat confused but manageable. It is obviously a converted manor house. It is therefore, not really a hotel but more of a hotel/pension fusion, if there is such a thing.
Hotel Belle Meuniere – A Niçois Experience
We found the price and location with respect to the train station very acceptable and there are also very good Niçoisrestaurants nearby. However, the location also worked somewhat against it as well, since areas around train stations tend to be a bit dirty. This is also true of the area around this hotel. If you are really into the beach, you might prefer something closer to the shore, though they will be more expensive. Though I would not give it any Michelin stars, it was manageable and the staff go out of their way to make you comfortable.
Nice From Inside and Above
Notre-Dame de Nice
Nice is a typical European city. It has a core or old city surrounded by many environs or suburbs that have their own distinct look and things to see. One of the more prominent sights along the main Avenue Jean-Médecin in Nice, is the Roman Catholic Gothic basilica called Notre-Dame de Nice. Like Notre-Dame de Paris, it also has a large rose window on its front but is much younger, smaller and is not a cathedral (it is not even designed after the one in Paris). It will at least make you stop and take a photograph.
Castle Hill
Another must see is the overlook of the city from the Colline du Château or Castle Hill. It is a modest walk from the old city up the hill to the East, before you are able to enjoy the vista.
Ericka and Patti – Nice Overlook
Erick – Nice Overlook
There are several points along the way up to stop and enjoy the view of Nice.
Patti and Ericka – Enjoying The Waterfall After The Climb Up The Hill
There are also other things to see on Castle Hill, including a waterfall and an overlook of Villefranche-sur-Mer, the next town over, though somewhat obscured by trees on the walk down.
Avenue Jean Médecin
Avenue Jean Médecin
Nice – Avenue Jean Médecin
Méssena Square
Méssena Square
Nice
Avenue Jean Médecin
Avenue Jean Médecin
Nice
Nice
Nice
Nice – Avenue Jean Médecin
Ericka and Patti – Enjoying Méssena Square
Erick and Patti – Enjoying Méssena Square
Méssena Square
Avenue Jean Médecin
The above are a collection of our initial photographs as we walked through the city.
We also have favourite place in France, called Charlot Premier in Nice, which does excellent oysters.
If one were to take Trenitalia from Turin Porta Nuova west to its logical end, one would find Susa, a quiet little alpine town built by the Gauls sometime before the Roman Empire. Excited? You should be, we were and were not disappointed.
Susa Station
We entered the town via the train station, an hour’s ride from our main train station in Turin. As we traveled down the Susa Valley, somewhere starting around Avigliana, we slowly became surrounded by hills, then mountains.
Train route down the Susa Valley
Upon reaching Susa, we were encircled by Graian Alps. , especially Rocciamelone which sits just due north of the town.
Overlooking the Park of Augusto, with Rocciamelone towering overhead
We had arrived around eleven o’clock in the morning, ready for some serious tourist trekking of the town and a peak at the food festival they were having this weekend.
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The food festival, just after opening
and before the massive food fight (tongue in cheek)
Gauls and Romans
The town, like many very old towns in Italy, enjoys a rich history dating back before and including the Roman Empire. When the Roman Empire ascended into existence after the Roman Republic, Susa became a voluntary part of it in the 1st century BC.
Ceasar Augustus Arch, Susa, 8 BC
The arch was positioned along the Via Cozia (today known as Via delle Gallie), the road that led to Gaul. Its age and architecture are impressive, it is also amazing that it has stood in such good shape for over two thousand years!
Roman Aqueduct Terme Graziane and Gates
The aqueduct above is impressive itself and was built to feed water to baths somewhere, however it actually disguises a dirty little Gaul secret. The wall that connects to it on the left masks a set of holes carved into the rocks that were supposedly used to collect blood from Gaul sacrifices. Nice right? Those Gauls knew how to party.
Patti on the grounds of the Civic Museum for Roman History
Susa Around Town
If you are not so inclined to delve deeply into the Roman history of the area, it is easy enough just to enjoy the town itself.
The Dora Riparia makes its trek through Susa carrying its aquamarine glacial waters. It eventually is joined by other tributaries, especially the Cenischia, before it reaches Turin and joins the river Po.
Susa Torre, Comune di Susa
The Torre in Susa, a building obviously repurposed over the years.
Piazza della Torre, Susa
Pizzeria Ristorante Italia
Finally after a few hours enjoying the absolutely gorgeous weather and amazing scenery it was time for something to eat. We decided the street food we saw was not going to slake our thirst nor satiate us, so we ventured away from the center of town, which we also found much too noisy (they do allow cars to flow through it). From the Piazza Trento we walked down the via Francesco Rolando and found an obvious favorite, Pizzeria Ristorante Italia.
Inside Pizzeria Ristorante Italia
The restaurant was actually quite busy; the photograph above being taken before the mass of locals entered in small groups to eat their lunch. Many of which ordered the blue plate and much to our chagrin got served before ourselves. Oh well, it wasn’t like we were in a hurry, being retired is so nice…
Patti’s Bruschetta
and Papadelle Al Ragú
Susa A Great One Day Adventure
We had a marvelous time in Susa and want to come back in the Fall and perhaps Winter to enjoy the change of season and their Christmas market respectively. So we encourage you, if you are ever in the vicinity of Turin, do not dismiss Susa as a possible day trip. Check their calendar first, just in case they have something special going on. Even if they don’t, a one day trip just for the history will be worth it. Until then, here are some extra photographs of Susa for your enjoyment.
Piazza 4th of November, Susa
Patti going toward San Giusto Cathedral
Another overlook of Park Augustu
via Martin Della Liberta
Looking Southeast towards the Nature Reserve
Looking South towards the Nature Reserve
Dora Riparia looking towards France
Susa
Susa
The 33rd Historical Tournament celebration party display
Dora Riparia looking East toward Turin
Dora Riparia and its blue waters
Susa
Susa
Narrow Alleys in Susa
Flowers adorning a wall in Susa
Fresco adorning the outside entry to the Cathedral
Image from doorway to the Museum looking towards the Nature Reserve and mountains
A short trip by train just outside and to the west of Turin lies Avigliana, a medieval town some would call a small city. However, regardless of its size, it is charming nonetheless.
Turin Porta Nouva to Avigliana via TrenitaliaAvigliana Train Station
We arrived on a picture perfect day with only a few clouds hovering over the mountains to the North and West and no threat of rain whatsoever in sight.
Abbey Sacra di San Michele
As soon as we left the train station we could see the Abbey Sacra di San Michele perched on the Monte Pirchiriano to the West. From Avigliana this is also an easy sight to visit if you are traveling by car. However, even if you are traveling by train and on foot it is also possible if you have the time. It lies some ten kilometers from town and has history that dates back to the tenth century. Our trip centered more on the historic part of town and visiting the lakes, which promised to be magnificent.
via Porta Ferrata, Avigliana
Porta Ferrata, Avigliana
Church Santa Croce
Patti and the overlook from Santa Croce
Our ascent to the town was along a more or less direct route from the train station. Instead of following the signs near the train station, we walked via San Giuseppe to via Porta Ferrata. Once you reach the fork in the road take the right branch which will bring you to the Church of Santa Croce and an uncommon overlook of the Susa Valley. Coming back down and continuing a bit further we came across the Porta Ferrata, an old medieval gate that dates back to the 13th century.
Panoramic view from the overlook at the Church of Santa Croce
We had now spent a little over an hour walking through the narrow streets and alleys, exploring those little areas that afforded us access. From the spine of the hill on which the town sits, one can get some great photographs of the mountains, including historic landmarks.
From via Dell’Orologio the Torre dell’Orologio and cupola of the Parrochia SS. Giovanni e Pietro
From the via dell’Orologio we quickly descended the historic center of town to make our way to the lakes. (It is best before you leave to download any maps as well as familiarize yourself with your overall route. We found cellular service in the town a bit spotty, so if you are addicted to travel-by-phone only, you may run into difficulties and feel lost at times.) However, if you are lucky enough to find the main road, via Garibaldi that leads to Corso Laghi, you are all set; the maar lakes are South on that road.
Lago Grande di Avigliana
After about a fifteen or twenty-minute walk we came across the first lake, Lago Grande, meaning “large lake”. The term maar comes from the fact that both of these lakes are essentially volcanic craters. The volcanoes are of course extinct, but since the lava domes they once had have collapsed, the depressions have filled with water making these amazing lakes. The green tint comes from a mixture of mountain glacier runoff and algae. However they got there, on a beautiful sunny day they are just amazing to see and enjoy.
Residents must enjoy the peace the lakes and mountains offer them since it appears that no motorboats are allowed on the them, only sailboats and others that require human power. We also witnessed several people swimming the width of the large lake which must be close to one kilometer. There is also a diving school on the East bank of the large lake where you can take diving lessons. Though we were within a short walk to the smaller lake we decided not to go, We had both walked over three miles and were starting to get a bit tired.
Patti enjoying the weather and a rest from all of our walking
The stroll back into town took another twenty or so minutes and we were now both hungry and looking for something to eat. We had thought about eating somewhere along the lake, but none of the restaurant menus there appealed to us. So we headed for the main piazza in town, piazza Conte Rosso.
Chiesa de San Giovanni
Retracing our route back to the piazza and up the long street stairs of via Garibaldi we see the Church of San Giovanni from under the Porta San Giovanni. The church stands there almost confused that it is no longer held up on the one side by a building that most likely once stood there. It most likely had been torn down centuries ago, but the scars from its lost companion are still obvious in the relentless sun. The facade, which one must say is somewhat unique, dates back to the 14th and 15th centuries and seems to borrow from several styles.
Piazza Conte Rosso
Piazza Conte Rosso is a working piazza, with cars co-mingling with pedestrians. From here one can see the ruins of the old castle on the hill, Castello di Avigliana. There are also several caffés and bars here, as well as the restaurant, San Michele.
Ristorante San Michele
The food at Ristorante San Michele is very good and moderately expensive. There are daily specials and several dishes that are unique to the Piedmont. They also serve bio wine which is environmentally friendly, from the Piedmont, quite unique and is very, very good!
If you are in the area of the Piedmont or Turin and have a few hours or a day extra, then Avigliana might be a very relaxing choice for you. There is definitely enough to see and do, you can rent boats on the lakes and swim, and there is more than enough to eat and drink.
Upon arrival and leaving the local train station a map of Asti, strategically located for those visiting the tiny city, greets all. It is actually quite informative and gives anyone a good overview of the local points of interest. However in order to have seen the map above one probably also missed the pedestrian tunnel to cross the busy intersection to town from the train station, we did!
Piazza Statuto
If you bear to the left after the traffic circle and upon entering the town one of the first sites and piazzas, like any other typical Italian town, is the Piazza Statuto. A quaint little piazza in what I would call a lazy and relaxing little town.
Piazza San Secondo – left view
Piazza San Secondo by contrast is a much larger piazza and is ringed with some shopping, if you are inclined to do any shopping while here. In the background popping up over the rooftops one can also see the top of the Torre Troyana.
Piazza San Secondo – right view
Of course the dominant building in this piazza is a catholic church for which the piazza is named after, the church San Secondo. A short walk down the small street directly across from the piazza takes you to the Torre Troyana.
Piazza Medici and the Troyan Clock Tower
The Piazza Medici Asti has the historical Torre Troyana o dell’Orologio. Originally started in the 12th century it was eventually bought by the Troya family and finished. Later the municipality of Asti purchased the tower and annexed it to the neighboring government building. As some point a clock was added, probably inside since I saw no evidence of one on the exterior of the building.
via Pelletta, looking toward the San Secondo church
If you are ever traveling in Italy and are tired of all the crowds of tourists, Asti should be one of your stops. Not that I like to encourage tourism, but if you are looking for a lazy day of strolling around unaffected by the hordes of international travelers this could be a good one day stop for you too. As can be seen by the photograph above the town’s side streets offer a relaxing substitute from some of the busier places around Italy.
Restaurant Le Teste di Rapa
Lunch in Asti offers many possibilities, from regional pizza and focaccia to enoteca and restaurant fusions offering great wines and food. After reading several menus on the street and walking around a bit, we decided on Le Teste di Rapa.
This restaurant offers no outside seating but is rather large inside and has both a downstairs and an upstairs. It also draws a very large local lunch crowd, so it is probably best to get there a bit early, between 12 to 12:30, especially if you have a train to catch or other time constraint. The locals seem to show up around one o’clock and for what we saw pack the place in pretty well.
Bertolino – a great Barbera d’Asti Superiore
The regional wines are the best to try and there is a wide selection. Though Asti is known for Asti Spumante, there are also other great varietals if you are not up for something bubbly. One of which are the Barberas. They go very well with rich food, in my case a dish of Italian meatballs and in Patti’s the daily special of eggplant parmesan. Both dishes were excellent and served with a fresh local white bread.
Patti outside the restaurant
The Palio di Asti
Once we left the restaurant we had another fifty minutes or so to spend and decided we had time to stroll over to see if there was anything interesting around Asti’sPalio (the less well-known cousin of the one in Siena.)
The Palio here is of course a ringed street, that is it goes around in a complete loop, an essential requirement if you are having any kind of race. Though less well-known, Asti’s horse race also goes way back to the thirteen century. A main difference one can see between this venue and the one in Siena is the Asti version has a central piazza encircled by a walkway and a double row of trees. During most of the year this piazza apparently supports a small outside market. Nowhere as busy or large as the one in Turin, but offering the same kind of goods one expects to find at such a market with very reasonable prices as well.
Asti Train Station – Back to Turin
We finally made it back at the train station, taking the pedestrian tunnel this time, around twenty minutes to three.
Asti train station and platforms
The trip between Asti and Turin P.N. (Porta Nuova) is just over thirty minutes with only one stop in between just outside of Turin. Otherwise the trip is totally second class at €5.25 one way per person, so do not expect to be able to purchase a first class ticket. But seats are comfortable and plentiful in both directions. The views outside the train are a bit better than traveling toward Milan and points East.
Poppies and the bucolic Italian countryside
In any case a very relaxing and lazy day for an excursion to Asti and one destination worth the visit if you have the time, if only for the food and wine! ???? Ciao for now.
Tired of waiting for the rain to come, Patti and I on Sunday decided to take a walk anyway, our umbrellas in tow just in case. Initially we thought we would just walk across the river Po again, in the opposite direction this time, to enjoy the Spring weather. It’s been raining here so often one has to get out when one can and enjoy it.
Patti starting our ascent to the Monte dei Capuccini
Our first thoughts were just a short walk to the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, across the Vittorio Emanuele bridge, stroll along the other bank for a bit and then cross again using the Umberto bridge below our street and back to our apartment. However, upon reaching the other side, we noticed the entrance to what we thought was a park at first just across the street from where we were walking. We quickly realized it was the entrance to the church that sat on top of the hill and decided a detour was in order.
Monument of Maria Immacolata
The climb is at first rather gradual but then steepens towards the end, especially the last few hundred meters. Before you reach the top there is the entrance to the museum and the hilltop bar where you can buy refreshments and enjoy the overlook. Finally, when you reach the top, the monument of the Maria Immacolata greets you. She faces Turin, which allows you to take a photograph of her with the Superga juxtaposed in the back.
Turin from Monte dei Capuccini, looking West-Southwest
The overlook once you get to the top is well worth the twenty minute climb.
Turin from Monte dei Capuccini, looking West-Northwest, with the prominent Mole to the right
From this vantage point you can see most of Turin and even our street and apartment.
Our Turin
As you can see by the above photograph we are but a five minute walk from the beautiful Piazza Vittorio Veneto which is reminiscent of other more famous Italian piazzas with all of the typical restaurants, cafes and bars.
View from the Umberto bridge
We concluded our Sunday walk with crossing the Umberto bridge, which on any other day is very busy with traffic, since it feeds into very busy main street Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. For a Sunday a very uneventful, relaxing and serendipitous walk.
Today, after contemplating the weather for tomorrow and whether or not it would be any better in the next few days, Patti and I decided to take a bus and the tramway to Basilica Superga. She astutely determined we had to take the 61 Bus from Vittorio Veneto over to Sassi. So around ten after eleven in the morning we made tracks for the local fermata.
Two Tickets from Sassi-Superga to Basilica Superga
The Sassi-Superga Tramway
In Sassi we purchased tickets for the cogged railway (a.k.a. rack railroad or tramway)Superga Tramway to the Basilica Superga. The tramway runs every hour on the hour from Sassi to Superga and subsequently on the half-hour on return. Tickets are purchased at the base of the railway from a vending machine, and yes the machine has an english option and roundtrip tickets cost 6 euros.
Car D12 on the Sassi-Superga Rack railway
The ride is awesome and the gradient is pretty steep even though they use regular rail cars, unlike the ones that are built at an angle, like on funicular railcars we have been on.
My attempt at taking a selfie together (not sure what they call that) and failing…
We enjoyed the ride up and the beautiful Spring weather, temperature in the mid 60’s and the cool mountain air, yummm.
Erick enjoying his Campari Spritz after that difficult tramway ride
After disembarking the tramway it was time for a quick break right at the station. A quick salami and cheese panini and Campari Spritz to get re-energized. After the customary 15 minute wait after ordering at the bar we were able to eat. One has to remind oneself to slow down when traveling in Italy, time is not a constant on all parts of the Earth.
Basilica Superga
The basilica it situated on top of the Superga hill which is some 2200 feet above the city and therefore makes it a very prominent point of interest when looking to the north from the city.
The Basilica’s Cupola as seen from the tramway and the start of our small hike to the Basilica
After a short ten minute walk up a fairly steep hill you climb a short set of stairs and then see the Basilica all of a sudden. On a fairly clear day its structure makes it stick out of the sky.
Basilica Superga
Unfortunately, this May the Basilica was closed for renovations, so we were not able to see the actual interior. Even without a close inspection of the structure one can easily see that no one can argue with this, since there are clearly cracks and other obvious things that need repair. That required us to contribute somehow, so we decided we must visit the cupola since it was still open, regardless of cost.
Two tickets to the Basilica Superga’s Cupola, no baggage!
After the purchase of our tickets, we had to climb the 131 steps to the cupola and see the oversight of Turin.
Erick climbing the first 100 steps, the final 30 would prove to have much less room
The oversight is pretty breathtaking, unfortunately in between rainy days, we were only able to get a semi-clear view of the mountains surrounding Turin.
Looking West Northwest from the Basilica over North Turin
The River Po can be seen above at the foot of the photograph. This is the river that cuts through Turin and has its origins in the Italian Alps.
Looking West Southwest from the Basilica over Turin; one can see the Mole to the right of the River Po on the left
One can actually get an almost 360 degree view of the surrounding area from the Basilica’s vantage point.
Looking to the East Northeast over the Basilica’s Palazzo
And finally a bit to the South.
Looking to the East Southeast over the roof of the Basilica
The rooftop fully surveyed we also enjoyed our cramped but slow descent down the staircase to our exit.
Patti on her way down
After our little climb we were still a bit hungry, the panini having been made with a tortilla and not the traditional focaccia left our stomachs a bit wanting; we therefore decided to visit the Artis Opera at Superga Basilica and eat something else.
Patti at the restaurant, a very small room but comfortable
Though the room we had lunch in was very small with four tables in all; there were of course other rooms. It was very comfortable and the waiter was very attentive. I had a Insalata Mista and Patti had the Risotto Piemontese.
Erick – the railroad is in our blood. Damn can’t escape it!
Our return trip and ride down was just as enjoyable as the ride up. Springtime in Piemonte I must say is just GREAT!
