This is our final post about Nice, which we must say was very enjoyable and at times interesting. There are no doubts there are better places to go for a lazy or leisurely holiday. But few can offer the night-life, culture and coastal pleasures than the Côte d’Azur and Nice can. If we were to come back, it would be during the beginning of Summer, so that we could enjoy the beaches a bit more, though probably not in Nice, since they are quite rocky here.
Asian Restaurants
There are several good Asian restaurants in and around the vicinity of the railway station. Though we did not have time to try them all, two of our favorites were Restaurant China for simple Chinese and Thai fair, and Les Baguettes d’Argent for Vietnamese. On one of our last nights in Nice, we visited the latter and were very happy with all of our meals.
The Beef and Vegetable Stirfry
Ericka – “All Done, Where’s My Dessert!?”
Nice At Night
There is nothing like strolling a boardwalk along a beach. With its throng of people from all over the world and businesses, it can be a very enjoyable experience during a vacation or holiday. This is definitely the case in Nice, which has an extraordinarily long boardwalk in the shape of a large crescent.
A Full Moon Over Cap de Nice
Here are some additional parting photographs from our walk along the beach. We were especially lucky to have a full moon greet us as we walked, as well as perfect evening temperatures.
Nice – Hotels along the Promenade des Anglais
Nice – Full Moon on the Promenade des Anglais
Nice – Hotels along the Promenade des Anglais
Nice – On the Promenade des Anglais – Hard Rock Cafe
Nice – Sunset along the Promenade des Anglais
Nice – Sunset along the Promenade des Anglais
Nice – Hotels along the Promenade des Anglais
Conclusion
A very nice place to vacation. Depending on what your plans are, the area offers a variety of things you can do. It is no doubt a gambler’s paradise, so if you are a gambler, drinker and eater, here is a prime spot. The area also has a fairly high number of hotels, so depending on your budget you should be able to, more or less, pick what you want; but I would book in advance since while we were here the Ironman Championship was being held and rooms were scarce.
The people we encountered were very nice and helpful. Even the hotel and restaurant staff, we found to be very attentive. We infrequently ran into any language barrier. Most people in the area seem to have some knowledge of English, most likely due to the high influx of tourists to the area. But, have your smart phone at the ready just in case.
On Another Note
Antibes – One Solution – The Poop Patrol
We did however find the city itself a bit dirty, not in the normal sense of a city, but dirty (think N.Y.C. in the 1960’s), even if you overlook the dog excrement all over. For a tourist area, this is unfortunate and even though we do not live here, we do not like to see it either.
The French love their dogs and apparently their dog excrement as well, since they do not appear to do much about it. I guess it’s a societal issue. I always thought that the main reason in developed societies for installing plumbing was to remove the excrement from the streets to prevent disease, etc.; I guess I may be wrong(?) I did however see one municipality trying a solution, the Poop Patrol. Apparently Antibes is trying a motorcycle outfitted with a vacuum attachment to suck up any dastardly dog remains. The container on the rear (see above photograph) even has Bio-Hazard warnings on it. I found it funny, a bit ridiculous, but all-in-all probably necessary. I don’t think the French are going to change their habits about dogs anytime soon.
With that, we leave you for now until next time when we will be exploring London and Scotland. Until then…
Where to start, especially when visiting the most densely populated place on Earth? I guess for us, that would be the SNCF train station, which is about a 30 minute ride from Nice. In Monaco,it drops you off in a tunnel, like other places we enjoyed in Cinque Terre, Italy. So like there, we had to walk a long tunnel and climb some stairs to finally emerge and enjoy our destination.
Monaco Harbor
Once you start walking, you can tell that space here is at a premium. Even the sidewalks are not as generously proportioned as other places that we have visited.
Within ten minutes or so, we found ourselves walking along the Avenue de la Quarantaine. Viewing the port, which when compared with photographs of the 1970s, was crammed with watercraft of all sizes.
Theatre du Fort Antoine
Along The Digue de L’Avant Port
Along The Digue de L’Avant Port
Port from The Digue de L’Avant Port
On the point where you need to take a right and walk along the coast, is a theatre called the Theatre du Fort Antoine. Though very nice, with an almost modern appeal, it is not considered a cultural spot for the city. Proceeding along the Digue de L’Avant Port, you walk directly toward the institute.
Also known as the Oceanographic Institute of Monaco;Â a rather impressive building from the sea. The former study and laboratory for Jacques-Ives Cousteau and his adventures, is itself also responsible for introducing some of the invasive species now threatening the Mediterranean Sea — via the unconscionable practice of flushing unwanted biological organisms down the toilet or drain, as practiced in other developed countries as well.
Oceanographic Institute of Monaco – Internal Entrance from Parking Garage
Oceanographic Institute of Monaco – Main Entrance
The Institute is well fitted to handle a large number of visitors with underground parking, that accommodates large buses and escalators to assist all, up to the ticket lobby. One must first pass multiple shops and other facilities, before entering the institute to enjoy the museum and/or aquarium.
Tickets For Two
The Museum
It is divided into two equally impressive multi-level rooms which contain a very large selection of specimens, stories and artifacts from the natural world, encompassing the globe.
The Main Hall
One Entrance To The Museum
A Kayak In The Main Hall
Shadowbox Displays
Shadowbox Display – Showing The Calypso
The large main hall has a very large wall display meant to be offered as a shadowbox of significant developments in oceanography, which happily includes the Calypso.
With specific emphasis on the oceans and their habitats, the collection also includes some archeological specimens in the form of fossils and replication of prehistoric animals. These are used as a pedagogical device and comparison to present day species which are on display here.
Fish from the Deep Oceans
One can find one of two displays on deep-sea creatures as well, which are interesting to see, even if it is in a petrified state.
There is also a section detailing the scientific devices and methods used in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s.
One Of Cousteau’s Submarines
Outside, there is apparently the first submarine Cousteau used early in his career.
It took us a little over an hour to complete the museum, which we did before seeing the aquarium.
The Aquarium
I have been to many aquariums, but I must say this one ranks up at the top five for sure. Not only for the breath and depth of species they have, but also the specimens and facilities are very well-kept. All the animals appear quite normal in behavior and have more than sufficient space to enjoy what surroundings they have been given.Â
Hallway to Aquarium
Main Tank – Sharks and other Fishes
Main Tank
Main Tank
Main Tank
Main Tank – Smaller Fish and Damselfish
Main Tank – Smaller Fish and Damselfish
There are a few large main tanks which host a myriad of species and most of the large predators, including sharks.
The Nautilus Tank
The rare species that they do have, include the Cuttlefishand the Nautilis. With the Cuttlefish, you definitely get the feeling that this animal is not only looking back at you, but that there is also some analysis going on as well — definitely an intelligent species.
My favorites are unfortunately the ones I used to have in fish tanks. The Emperor Angelfish, Hippo Tang and Copperbanded Butterfly fish stand out to me to be some of the most interesting and beautiful specimens.
But, the Damselfish are also great to view, with their luminescent blue and their proclivity for darting back and forth.
Even with the current onslaught against the Amazon, there are also Piranha here too. One can only wonder when this species will be threatened too, if not already.
Seahorse are one of the more popular attractions, most likely because they are so different from all of the normal or bony fishes. But then again, what is a normal fish?
Seahorses
The Parrotfish – He Kept Diving To Eat Gravel
Patti and Ericka – Enjoying the Aquarium
The Seahorse and Nautilus Displays at the Aquarium
The Turtle Display
The Turtle Display
Eating In Monaco
After our long visit at the institute, it was time to get something to eat. Not but a five-minute walk away, we found Restaurant L’Aurora.
Restaurant L’Aurore – Fine Food and Good Service
This is another restaurant that will remind those who travel along the coast of France and Italy of Niçose style. The menu offers a fusion of French and Italian dishes. It is sometimes unclear in the Côte d’Azur, if you are eating French or Italian; either will claim the dishes and cuisine are theirs! However, this is a good restaurant. The food was very good and the staff very accommodating. I had the blue plate special, just one selection of which there were many.
L’Aurora – Staff and Inside
Daily Special – Ravioli – Ummm-Umm-Good!
Monte Carlo
Not far from the train station, perhaps a 20 minute walk away, is Monte Carlo. Having come this far we pushed forward up the hill and up to Monte Carlo to see what, if anything, it was all about.
Monte Carlo
Monte Carlo – Litfaßsäule
Our initial impression was no one lives here, all we saw were tourists. If one took the tourists away, then no one would be walking around. Obviously, just a playground for the filthy rich. Even the sidewalks are tiled and run perfectly to adjoin all the buildings where they meet. I saw no homeless people.
Patti and Ericka – Walking in Monte Carlo
Almost every store and door has a doorman; there are security personnel walking around everywhere. You get the distinct impression that whether you live here or not, you are suspected at all times.
Casino de Monte Carlo
The Casino de Monte Carlo is perhaps the only architecturally significant building in this area. Though a bit ostentatious, it has a certain appeal, even for those not expecting it.
Not much to see from the outside and there is a considerable piazza outside, probably doubling as a parking lot for important occasions. Not interested in the inside, no relation of ours, we took our photographs and left for other sites.
Apotheosa Monaca
Conclusion
Though I found the city-state interesting, I have no wish to live there; it appears devoid of real life.
Freiheit liebe ich und die Luft über frischer Erde; lieber noch will ich auf Ochsenhäuten schlafen, als auf ihren Würden und Achtbarkeiten.
Ich bin zu heiss und verbrannt von eigenen Gedanken: oft will es mir den Athem nehmen. Da muss ich in’s Freie und weg aus allen verstaubten Stuben.
The old city is some 15 to 20 minute walk along the Avenue de le Liberation, Avenue Paul Arène and Boulevard d’Aguillon.
Boulevard d’Aguillon
Patti Walking The Boulevard d’Aguillon
Antibe – Start of the Boulevard d’Aguillon
Foutain at the Gate of Rue Aubernon
Antibes is not as impressive as some of the other towns and cities you will find along this famous coast, but we found that it has its own kind of charm.
Antibes – Old City Charm
Antibes – Old City Charm
It has many narrow side streets filled with shops and a very large plaza, Place Nationale, where vendors of all kinds sell different things. While we were there, a market similar to one we would call a flea market in the States, was in full swing. Everything from furniture to estate items were offered for sale.
Antibes – Place Nationale
The old city is also a great place to just wander along street to street. Turning a corner you never know what you may find. In some small streets there are still old-style electric wires on glass insulators, a throw-back no doubt of the 1950’s or 60’s.
Pointe Bacon from Antibes
Beach from the Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse
Below the Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse
The Ramparts from the Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse
Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse and the Colonne a la Mer
Pointe Bacon as Viewed from Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse
Antibes – Alleys behind Ramparts
Antibes – Ericka and Patti walking the Streets
The Sea from the Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse
Beach as Viewed from the Ramparts
Antibes – Houses
Antibes – Alleys behind Ramparts
Additional areas we wander through are shown above, enjoy.
Where To Eat
As with most tourist spots, there are plenty of places to eat and there are some tourists here; no doubt drawn here for the same reasons we went, Picasso.
On the tip of the main plaza, Place Nationale, just around the corner on Rue Sade, is Le Chaudron. After a quick survey of what was available outside, we choose it because of its menu and decor. It turned out to be a cozy little place with good food.
All in all with the addition of the museum stop we consider Antibes a very nice place to visit. It one of the remaining if not the last active working port on this coast so you will also see plenty of maritime shops and stores as well as those for tourists.
The building was purchase in 1925 by the city of Antibes to become what was known then as the Grimaldi Museum. Picasso actually spent time here in 1946 and used it as a workshop. He subsequently made a very generous donation to the museum, some of which were even created there.
Pablo Picasso – circa 1946
The exhibit is impressive and contains many of his works from his 1946 period. There is probably something here for every taste but the main themes nudes and shellfish (apparently inspired by the meals he partook while there).
Pablo Picasso – circa 1946
There are also several photographs of the artist along with text and one can also purchase an audio guide for the entire collection.
Note: Aside from the sculptor if there is any interest at all in me providing captions for the works below, then please send me a review with your request. I will also remove this comment after I have done so. Enjoy!
A small triangle of the city of Niceexists, what was originally the old city. If one were to trace it on a map, they would start from the Petit Train monument along the coast, then around Castle Hill, down the Promenade du Paillon (which actually is a covered up old river) and back to the monument. Within this triangle, the visitor will notice the streets are ever so narrower and older, this is the old city.
Old Nice – Place Rossetti
Old Nice – Narrow Streets
Old Nice – Up To Castle Hill
Old Nice – Narrow Streets
Old Nice – Interesting Restaurants
Old Nice – More Narrow Streets
Old Nice – Near the Chapelle of the Visitation
Old Nice – An Old Portal in the City
Old Nice – Interesting Indian Restaurant
The best thing to do here, is just take a half a day, usually around lunch so you can enjoy one of the many restaurants. There are also plenty of shops and other tourist venues you can visit, to satisfy any knickknack itch you may have.
Nice – Area Just Outside The Old City
Nice – Boulevard Jean Jaures
Nice – Area Just Outside The Old City
Nice – Typical Upscale Street
Nice – Garibaldi Square
Nice – Area Just Outside The Old City
We walked along the Promenade, up to Giuseppe Garibaldi Square, then to Castle Hill and made our way back down the hill to visit the old city, after having lunch of course.
Niçose Cuisine
In Nice some of the best restaurants to visit specialize in the Niçose style of cooking. This is a blend of French and Italian influences that go back many generations. They offer daily specials and usually an adequate, if not great selection of French and Italian wines.
Restaurant Voyageur
Restaurant Voyageur
One very good restaurant that is the epitome of Niçose style, is Restaurant Voyageur. Not only is the food great, but the service is very good and they understand English very well.
Restaurant Saëtone
Restaurant Saetone
Restaurant Saetone – Inside the Front Door
Restaurant Saetone – The Bar
Restaurant Saetone – The Great Interior
Another very good restaurant is Saëtone. This one is rather small, so you must get there early if you hope to get a seat for lunch. They usually have a very dedicated lunch crowd and every chair and table will be full by the time lunch hour is in full swing.
Both of these are situated on Rue d’Alsace-Lorraine. Of course, before heading out always check the times for when they are open and have a backup plan. You can always get there to find the restaurant to be closed, for whatever strange reason. We found the Voyageur to be the more dependable of the two.
Museum Marc Chagall
A short walk from our hotel is the National Museum of Marc Chagall. We had to take a circuitous route via the Avenue Biassini to get there, but it wasn’t too much of a problem. If you are walking, it is on a hill, so keep that in mind.
Marc Chagall Museum – Tickets For Two
The entrance fee for the museum is at this time 10€, so we bought tickets for two plus one (Ericka).
Marc Chagall – Abraham and the Three Angels (1960-66)
Marc Chagall – Jacob’s Dream (1960-66)
Marc Chagall – Adam and Eve expelled from Paradise (1961)
The works by Chagall include most of his Bible-inspired works, including Noah’s Ark, Descent from the Cross and Adam and Eve Expelled from Paradise.
There is also the blue rose testing window that was created for his work, for the Metz Cathedral.
In a far corner, there is also a wonderful mosaic across a reflecting pond, where one can quietly sit in the room and contemplate the mandala.
Of course, the best and my personal favorites are the blue stained glass windows. These are fantastic and remind me of the stained glass windows of Saint Stephan’s Church in the Altstadt of Mainz, Germany.
While we were in Nice this young visual artist and movie maker had some very interesting displays. Some may not like his artistic talents, since they usually display less color and movements, and may appear almost machine-like. But those who enjoy movies and computer games with a dystopian twist will probably be captivated by them. What follows has been broken up to make just one of the videos I saw there easier to upload.
Sitting less than two miles from Nice is Villefranche-sur-Mer, a mere walk away. Since this little port town is also part of the Côte d’Azur SNCF train system, we decided to do just that, one sunny day. We took a walk over the Mont Boron and took the train back.
Walking From Nice
If you are lucky enough to visit this quaint little town on the sea while no cruise ship is in the bay, then you would be as lucky as we were the day we decided to walk there from Nice. A frequent stop of cruise ships Villefranche-sur-Mer is the most used cruise ship docking port in France. Luckily we were spared both the site and the influx of tourists that accompanies such an ocurrence.
Mont Boron – Typical Vegetation
Mont Boron – View of Cape Ferrat
Mont Boron – French Parks Do Not Use Poisons
Mont Boron – Villefranche-sur-Mer
Mont Boron – The Bay of Villefranche-sur-Mer
Mont Boron – The Way Up
Mont Boron – Official Gate To The Park
From the old city of Nice, we ascended Mont Boron, which I must say is much higher on the side of Fort du Mont Alban than we experienced on Castle Hill, Mont Boron’s smaller cousin. However, there are very good paths that switchbacks all the way up to help you with the ascent.
Fort du Mont Alban
The fort from the outside appears to be a four-sided bastion fort. Made entirely of stone, it stands impressively on top of the mountain. Unfortunately, entrance cannot be gained and it appears to be closed. Â There are no indications that it has ever been opened to the public.
Nice – Fort du Mont Alban
Nice – The Front of Fort du Mont Alban
With the exception of walking up the front stairs to the main door, there appear to be no other entrances on the other sides.
Fort du Mont Alban – Main Gate
Fort du Mont Alban – North Side
Fort du Mont Alban – Ericka from Front Gate
Fort du Mont Alban – West Side
After getting our fill of the view from this vantage point, our walk to Villefranche-sur-Mer continued by finding the path to the town about a hundred meters to the left, leaving the fort. On your map, this path may be called the Chemin du Fort du Mont Alban.
Patti Descending the Chemin du Fort du Mont Alban
The path starts off easily without much slope, but it progressively gets steeper and less developed the further down you go, until you finally hit the town itself. So, care should be taken.
The Town On The Sea
The Bay of Villefranche-sur-Mer from Mayssa Beach Restaurant
From the path you will exit via a walkway to the Avenue du Fort. Since we were thirsty and starting to get hungry, we followed our noses down and finally found the Avenue du Marechal Foch. We found a cafe there for a quick drink. Â Then it was off to find a restaurant. Ericka found one overlooking the water called Mayssa Beach. A good pick, great service, excellent view and good food at a reasonable price.
Mayssa Beach – Ericka and Patti
Mayssa Beach – Heirloom Tomato Caprese
Mayssa Beach – Rigatoni Special
After haven eaten and relaxed a bit, we decided to walk the Quai de l’Amiral Courbet. The town is actually quite small and has very narrow streets. Enjoy the following photographs from this little gem on the coast.
Having resided in Turin now for six months we are getting more and more time to explore. Sometimes it’s a monument we haven’t seen before or a shop that looks unfamiliar. Most of which, in the past months or so, have taken quite a walk to get there and back. So we decided one day this week to have lunch and a coffee and see what we could turn up, right on or very near our own street, via Giovanni Giolitti.
Lunch
A nine or ten block walk from our apartment, past the Piazza San Carlo, is a small fresh pasta place called Brün. Actually located on via Vittorio Alfieri, which is technically one and the same with via Giovanni Giolitti since they are in fact one and the same street.
Brün – via Vittorio Alfieri – Pasta Fresca
Brün resides in a very clean-looking building just past the Piazza San Carlo. It’s entrance sports a business shingle at street view that is quite easy to see as you are walking.
Brün – Modern Interior
Inside the owners went with a more modern and efficient layout and design than you would probably see elsewhere in Turin. Their main claim to fame here is their pasta, which is made fresh daily and comes in  three price tiers and about eight styles, from the customary Italian Tagliatelle and Spaghetti, all the way to the more expensive and delicious ravioli – Agnolotti.
Tagliatelle with Oil and Parmesan
Tagliatelle alla Melanzane with cheese
We both decided on the Tagliatelle, but served two different ways and both were absolutely delicious. The pasta was served on plates of recycled paper and the utensils were also of recycled plastics. Each plate costs less than six Euros. Â Add two glasses of wine and both can eat a delicious lunch for under fifteen Euros easily!
Dessert
After paying for lunch we walked out of Brün only to take a short walk up via XX Settembre and around the corner to visit La Romana, located on via Santa Teresa.
La Romana – via Santa Teresa
From the outside it looks expensive, which normally in Turin still means delicious but pricey. However after looking what they had to offer we thought the pricing was more or less inline with what we would expect.
La Romana – The Coffee and Gelati Bar
The inside is a very modern decor with employees that also speak English, so you will have no problem ordering your Gelato and other desserts (there are many). We opted for the Gelato.
Hazelnut
YYYUUmmm – Dark Chocolate and Coconut
The store has much more to offer and appears to do all of their baking on site. In fact, while you are eating your gelato you can see the Baker make desserts behind a glass. The centerpiece of the store is a large glass enclosure with all of the day’s high-caloric offerings. All look very appetizing and we are definitely going back, not only for the Gelato which we think is as good as or slightly better that Fiorio and Grom, but to purchase and bring home a cake or tort.
Coffee
After dessert it was time to cap it off with an early afternoon coffee. What better place to go than down the street and around the corner to the Piazza San Carlo and Caffè Torino.
Caff̬ Torino РEarly 20th Century Decor
Caffè Torino is one of Turin‘s hallmark coffee bars where one can enjoy a Campari or Aperol Spritz, coffee, tea or any number of tall drinks. They also serve some light fare in the event you are hungry.
Patti had the establishment’s caffè Macchiato and I had a caffè (espresso) with a shot of Sambuca. The Sambuca sweetens the espresso a bit making it a caffè corretto. Each coffee came with the customary Torinese shot of sparkling water to cleanse your mouth once finished.
Make no mistake, Caffè Torino is modestly expensive when compared to other places where you can indulge in coffee around Turin (the home of coffee in Italy). We spent more on two cups of coffee and a Sambuca then we did on our pasta lunch with wine! You are however paying for the atmosphere. Therefore, if you choose your drinks wisely (or not), you can manage a very nice experience without an enormous bite coming out of your wallet.
All in all, we had a great lunch right on our own street and just a short walk away. Bear in mind all of this did take us close to three hours, or an hour lunch-break, if you are on Italian time!
If one were to take Trenitalia from Turin Porta Nuova west to its logical end, one would find Susa, a quiet little alpine town built by the Gauls sometime before the Roman Empire. Excited? You should be, we were and were not disappointed.
Susa Station
We entered the town via the train station, an hour’s ride from our main train station in Turin. As we traveled down the Susa Valley, somewhere starting around Avigliana, we slowly became surrounded by hills, then mountains.
Train route down the Susa Valley
Upon reaching Susa, we were encircled by Graian Alps. , especially Rocciamelone which sits just due north of the town.
Overlooking the Park of Augusto, with Rocciamelone towering overhead
We had arrived around eleven o’clock in the morning, ready for some serious tourist trekking of the town and a peak at the food festival they were having this weekend.
Advertisement for the event
The food festival, just after opening
and before the massive food fight (tongue in cheek)
Gauls and Romans
The town, like many very old towns in Italy, enjoys a rich history dating back before and including the Roman Empire. When the Roman Empire ascended into existence after the Roman Republic, Susa became a voluntary part of it in the 1st century BC.
Ceasar Augustus Arch, Susa, 8 BC
The arch was positioned along the Via Cozia (today known as Via delle Gallie), the road that led to Gaul. Its age and architecture are impressive, it is also amazing that it has stood in such good shape for over two thousand years!
Roman Aqueduct Terme Graziane and Gates
The aqueduct above is impressive itself and was built to feed water to baths somewhere, however it actually disguises a dirty little Gaul secret. The wall that connects to it on the left masks a set of holes carved into the rocks that were supposedly used to collect blood from Gaul sacrifices. Nice right? Those Gauls knew how to party.
Patti on the grounds of the Civic Museum for Roman History
Susa Around Town
If you are not so inclined to delve deeply into the Roman history of the area, it is easy enough just to enjoy the town itself.
The Dora Riparia makes its trek through Susa carrying its aquamarine glacial waters. It eventually is joined by other tributaries, especially the Cenischia, before it reaches Turin and joins the river Po.
Susa Torre, Comune di Susa
The Torre in Susa, a building obviously repurposed over the years.
Piazza della Torre, Susa
Pizzeria Ristorante Italia
Finally after a few hours enjoying the absolutely gorgeous weather and amazing scenery it was time for something to eat. We decided the street food we saw was not going to slake our thirst nor satiate us, so we ventured away from the center of town, which we also found much too noisy (they do allow cars to flow through it). From the Piazza Trento we walked down the via Francesco Rolando and found an obvious favorite, Pizzeria Ristorante Italia.
Inside Pizzeria Ristorante Italia
The restaurant was actually quite busy; the photograph above being taken before the mass of locals entered in small groups to eat their lunch. Many of which ordered the blue plate and much to our chagrin got served before ourselves. Oh well, it wasn’t like we were in a hurry, being retired is so nice…
Patti’s Bruschetta
and Papadelle Al Ragú
Susa A Great One Day Adventure
We had a marvelous time in Susa and want to come back in the Fall and perhaps Winter to enjoy the change of season and their Christmas market respectively. So we encourage you, if you are ever in the vicinity of Turin, do not dismiss Susa as a possible day trip. Check their calendar first, just in case they have something special going on. Even if they don’t, a one day trip just for the history will be worth it. Until then, here are some extra photographs of Susa for your enjoyment.
Piazza 4th of November, Susa
Patti going toward San Giusto Cathedral
Another overlook of Park Augustu
via Martin Della Liberta
Looking Southeast towards the Nature Reserve
Looking South towards the Nature Reserve
Dora Riparia looking towards France
Susa
Susa
The 33rd Historical Tournament celebration party display
Dora Riparia looking East toward Turin
Dora Riparia and its blue waters
Susa
Susa
Narrow Alleys in Susa
Flowers adorning a wall in Susa
Fresco adorning the outside entry to the Cathedral
Image from doorway to the Museum looking towards the Nature Reserve and mountains
A short trip by train just outside and to the west of Turin lies Avigliana, a medieval town some would call a small city. Â However, regardless of its size, it is charming nonetheless.
Turin Porta Nouva to Avigliana via TrenitaliaAvigliana Train Station
We arrived on a picture perfect day with only a few clouds hovering over the mountains to the North and West and no threat of rain whatsoever in sight.
Abbey Sacra di San Michele
As soon as we left the train station we could see the Abbey Sacra di San Michele perched on the Monte Pirchiriano to the West. From Avigliana this is also an easy sight to visit if you are traveling by car. However, even if you are traveling by train and on foot it is also possible if you have the time. It lies some ten kilometers from town and has history that dates back to the tenth century. Our trip centered more on the historic part of town and visiting the lakes, which promised to be magnificent.
via Porta Ferrata, Avigliana
Porta Ferrata, Avigliana
Church Santa Croce
Patti and the overlook from Santa Croce
Our ascent to the town was along a more or less direct route from the train station. Instead of following the signs near the train station, we walked via San Giuseppe to via Porta Ferrata.  Once you reach the fork in the road take the right branch which will bring you to the Church of Santa Croce and an uncommon overlook of the Susa Valley. Coming back down and continuing a bit further we came across the Porta Ferrata, an old medieval gate that dates back to the 13th century.
Panoramic view from the overlook at the Church of Santa Croce
We had now spent a little over an hour walking through the narrow streets and alleys, exploring those little areas that afforded us access. From the spine of the hill on which the town sits, one can get some great photographs of the mountains, including historic landmarks.
From via Dell’Orologio the Torre dell’Orologio and cupola of the Parrochia SS. Giovanni e Pietro
From the via dell’Orologio we quickly descended the historic center of town to make our way to the lakes. (It is best before you leave to download any maps as well as familiarize yourself with your overall route.  We found cellular service in the town a bit spotty, so if you are addicted to travel-by-phone only, you may run into difficulties and feel lost at times.)  However, if you are lucky enough to find the main road, via Garibaldi that leads to Corso Laghi, you are all set; the maar lakes are South on that road.
Lago Grande di Avigliana
After about a fifteen or twenty-minute walk we came across the first lake, Lago Grande, meaning “large lake”. The term maar comes from the fact that both of these lakes are essentially volcanic craters. The volcanoes are of course extinct, but since the lava domes they once had have collapsed, the depressions have filled with water making these amazing lakes. The green tint comes from a mixture of mountain glacier runoff and algae. However they got there, on a beautiful sunny day they are just amazing to see and enjoy.
Residents must enjoy the peace the lakes and mountains offer them since it appears that no motorboats are allowed on the them, only sailboats and others that require human power. Â We also witnessed several people swimming the width of the large lake which must be close to one kilometer. Â There is also a diving school on the East bank of the large lake where you can take diving lessons. Though we were within a short walk to the smaller lake we decided not to go, We had both walked over three miles and were starting to get a bit tired.
Patti enjoying the weather and a rest from all of our walking
The stroll back into town took another twenty or so minutes and we were now both hungry and looking for something to eat. Â We had thought about eating somewhere along the lake, but none of the restaurant menus there appealed to us. Â So we headed for the main piazza in town, piazza Conte Rosso.
Chiesa de San Giovanni
Retracing our route back to the piazza and up the long street stairs of via Garibaldi we see the Church of San Giovanni from under the Porta San Giovanni. The church stands there almost confused that it is no longer held up on the one side by a building that most likely once stood there. It most likely had been torn down centuries ago, but the scars from its lost companion are still obvious in the relentless sun. The facade, which one must say is somewhat unique, dates back to the 14th and 15th centuries and seems to borrow from several styles.
The food at Ristorante San Michele is very good and moderately expensive. There are daily specials and several dishes that are unique to the Piedmont. They also serve bio wine which is environmentally friendly, from the Piedmont, quite unique and is very, very good!
If you are in the area of the Piedmont or Turin and have a few hours or a day extra, then Avigliana might be a very relaxing choice for you. There is definitely enough to see and do, you can rent boats on the lakes and swim, and there is more than enough to eat and drink.
Our plans for visiting Cinque Terre were for spending most of our time in Monterosso, which we felt was the more livable town, and visit the other four. First, Vernazza by hiking to it from Monterosso, then taking the train and by-passing the subject towns to have lunch in Riomaggiore.  Subsequently, taking the train indirectly back to Monterosso by way of the other two smaller towns quickly in the afternoon.  This means that even with an approximately two-hour hike in the morning to Vernazza, you too can visit all the towns this way too!
Manarola
The Train Station Sign – Manarola
Exiting The Train Station Tunnel
Manarola being a smaller town has few things to do, but its a colorful little town and is busy with activity.
The Main StreetBusy With Tourists
Manarola will also remind you that it’s still a working fishing port, or that’s what they want you to believe at least. Â As you head toward the old port you will increasingly come across boats that have been dragged up from the shore and stored along the street sides.
Of course there is always the sea to visit and a short walk down to the seaside is a must.
Taking In The Seaside Is A Must, Here Swimmers Can Dive From The RocksThere Were Plenty People Swimming Even Though There Was Technically No Beach
If you have to eat in Manarola we can definitely suggest the old Cinque Terre Gelateria, they have gelato, unlike some others we have come across (and there is bad tourist gelato around), that is just amazing.
Cinque Terre Gelateria – A Big Thumbs UP!
Corniglia
After jumping on the train again we found ourselves in the last of the five towns, Corniglia.
Corniglia Train Station
This town has the dubious distinction of having four hundred plus steps to reach it from the train station. Â While my wife Patti and daughter Ericka decided it was a bit too hot to attempt to summit our last town, I took on the challenge.
A long walk awaits you prior to your climb
In the baking heat, and it was reaching low to mid 90’s each day here, before you even reach the stairs you are, shall we say, uncomfortable.
The stairs switchback and forthThe view is amazingIf you climb too far, this will remind you its the start of a trail too!
The stairs are well-kept and there is some shade along the way where you can rest. Â Since I am no longer in my twenties, I availed myself of the shade twice (before I blew a blood vessel or suffered a stroke). Â Fortunately when you reach the top the town has strategically placed a fountain where one can top off their bottle of water (thank you!). Â If you continue you will quickly realize by the signs that you have gone the wrong way and you will meet the customary trail signs to the next town. Â Turning around you should notice the town and your mistake.
Getting to the center requires a little navigation, but you will eventually pop out close to the town center and where the bus stop is. Â Even climbing the steps and taking several short breaks I was still able to beat my wife and daughter to the town center, but I admit that was on a busy touristy day!
Town CenterNext to the bus stopThe Cappella dei Flagellati Corniglia
Climbing the stairs to the right of this church yields an uncomprimising view of the water.
The Mediterranean Sea
…and that just about sums up our visit to Cinque Terre. Â Though a lot of traveling is involved, walking, hiking, climbing and sittings on buses and trains it is more a less worth it. Â However, one can also make the argument that it is a bit of a manufactured tourist trap and part of an industry to help the locals out and/or inconvenience them, some times its difficult to tell. Â We leave that thought for the reader to consider before visiting.
In order to enter the park for hiking between the towns, you have to purchase tickets. These will give you trail access and can be purchased at the National Park Service counter at the train station.
Tickets for two, plus one
These same tickets give you complete shuttle bus and train service between the five towns as well. Even if you don’t hike, this is probably your best travel option at 16€ per person.
We took the train from Vernazza to Riomaggiore and in order to get to the town center, you must walk through a tunnel.
Via Colombo
The main street looks similar to the other towns, perhaps with a bit more vertical pitch.
The climb up to the castle is a bit long and on a hot day can be somewhat oppressive.
You cannot miss it, there is a big clock on it!
There are benches and an overlook to the right, once you reach the top.
If you are looking for narrow stairways or alleys, there are plenty of those to explore. After our long hike and short train ride, we actually ate lunch here as well and can recommend Veciu Muin.
