Porto, Portugal – Last Day

On our last day in Porto, we saw the Lello Bookstore, the Old Stock Exchange and took the funicular up to the upper portion of the Luis I Bridge and rode the gondola back down to the Vila Nuova de Gaia.

Second Great Wall Of The City – Porto, Portugal

Luis I Bridge – Upper Bridge – Porto, Portugal

Luis I Bridge – Upper Bridge, Vila Nuovo de Gaia – Porto, Portugal

Lello Bookstore

After an early start we climbed our way back up to the Miragaia, not only for breakfast, but to stand in line to see the inside of a bookstore.

Lello Bookstore – Ceiling and Staircase – Porto, Portugal

Lello Bookstore – Ceiling Skylight – Porto, Portugal

Lello Bookstore – Decus in Labore – Porto, Portugal

Lello Bookstore – Skylight – Porto, Portugal

Lello Bookstore – Upstairs – Porto, Portugal

Palácio da Bolsa

The Palácio da Bolsa, the Stock Exchange Palace or Euronext Lisbon, used to house the stock exchange for Portugal. Now, only certain members of the administration have offices here, and hence, it is required to have guided tours.

Palace Stock Exchange – Exterior – Porto, Portugal

Palace Stock Exchange – Chairmen Room – Porto, Portugal

Palace Stock Exchange – Meeting Room Ceiling – Porto, Portugal

Palace Stock Exchange – Commercial Telegraph – Porto, Portugal

Palace Stock Exchange – Eiffel Room – Porto, Portugal

Palace Stock Exchange – Last Royal Family Portraits – Porto, Portugal

Palace Stock Exchange – Plaster False Wood – Porto, Portugal

The tour only lasts for about thirty minutes and you learn of the many former leaders and functions of the palace. It is an active building and holds many events internally, including operettas for small crowds.

Palace Stock Exchange – Galleria – Porto, Portugal

Palace Stock Exchange – Bronze Chandeliers – Porto, Portugal

Palace Stock Exchange – Main Stairway – Porto, Portugal

Of particular note is the reception room where the wealth of the stock exchange and Portugal was to promote and entice investors. The walls are festooned with non-sensical Arabic symbols denoting the rooms secular monetary cause.

Palace Stock Exchange – False Arabian Secular Meeting Room – Porto, Portugal

Palace Stock Exchange – Arabic Secular Saying – Porto, Portugal

Six Bridges Cruise

There are several lines that promote a voyage to see the six bridges along the River Duoro in the area. The problem is, it is actually only five bridges and one viaduct, so don’t be surprised if your counting is minus one. However, we found it a good fifty minute excursion along the waterway and rather relaxing, if not totally uneventful.

Palace Stock Exchange – Six Bridges Cruise, Out To The Ocean – Porto, Portugal

25 March, 202525 March, 2025

Porto, Portugal – Another Look

After a dismal start and a break in the weather, we were able to explore the city of Porto a bit more rigorously. There are probably only a handful of streets that do not go up or down, so have your trekking legs prepared.

Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal

São Bento Train Station

The inner city train station, and perhaps the original Porto Central Station, is the São Bento Train Station. Known for its tiled waiting hall, it is known now more for its artwork than for its use as a primary station; Campahnã having eclipsed it as the main train station now. Unfortunately, it is beset by a very large public works project outside at the moment, so access is through side entrances for the most part.

Sao Bento Train Station – Entry Hall – Porto, Portugal

Sao Bento Train Station – Tracks – Porto, Portugal

Praça da Ribeira

A scenic spot on the River Duoro in the center of the old city is the Praça da Ribeira. It has several pieces of art to enjoy and the Cube Fountain, which is surrounded by a myriad of restaurants and cafe tents. It is along the Cias de Ribeira or promenade where you can enjoy a nice walk, listen to music or just enjoy the river.

Praça da Ribeira – Cube Fountain – Porto, Portugal

Luís I Bridge

Between the Praça da Ribeira, RibeiraDoPorto and the other side of the river, or Vila Nova de Gaia, is the Luís I Bridge, which was originally proposed by Gustave Eiffel, even though he did not win the competition to build it.

Praça da Ribeira – Luis I Bridge – Porto, Portugal

Luis I Bridge – Douro River Upstream – Porto, Portugal

Luis I Bridge – Vila Nova de Gaia – Porto, Portugal

Luis I Bridge – View of Praça da Ribeira – Porto, Portugal

Vila Nova de Gaia

On the other side of the river is the area or civil parish of Vila Nova de Gaia. This prefecture or parish you can find many of the great port wine houses, such as Sandeman, Kopke and Warres to name a few. It also has a very nice river side promenade that can be enjoyed on a nice sunny day.

Vila Nova de Gaia – Sandeman Port – Porto, Portugal

Churches

Our visit here continues with a few other churches, which we were unable to see the previous day.

Church Of Saint Anthony

A regular church by any measure, the church of St. Anthony does have a remarkable gilded altar, which would be the prize of any structure.

Church of Saint Anthony – Nave and Altar – Porto, Portugal

Church of Saint Anthony – Altar – Porto, Portugal

Carmo Church

Best known for its Portuguese tiled exterior, the Carmo Church sits on top of the hill next to the Lion Fountain and its park. The tiling on the outside is unfortunately covered with a gauze, no doubt to protect the surface of the tiles from prolonged exposure to the elements, so taking photographs at a distance is probably best.

Carmo Church – Entrance with Church of the Carmelitas on the left – Porto, Portugal

The interior is nice and in the baroque style of churches. Its other claim to fame are the side altars depicting Christ in one form of tribulation or another.

Carmo Church – Nave from above – Porto, Portugal

Carmo Church – Nave and Altar – Porto, Portugal

Carmo Church – Nave and Organ from above – Porto, Portugal

Carmo Church – Side Altar – Porto, Portugal

The Hidden House

Between the Carmo Church and the Church of the Carmelites is the Hidden House. A four story structure built between the two to prevent the appearance of impropriety, though it has had other uses throughout its 250 years.

The Museum

The museum of the Carmo Church houses the typical treasure and other important items used and passed down by the church through the years. There are some things of note, like the collection of hands, as well as other peculiar things that have to be seen to believe.

Restaurants and Cafes

The restaurants and cafes in Porto come in clusters, perhaps due to it being a tourist hot spot. They seem to line most of the more important streets and more heavily trafficked areas.

Casa Deolinda

A good spot for lunch would be the Casa Deolinda right within the Praça da Ribeira. We actually felt more compelled to eat here only due to the weather, but we were not disappointed. The food was good and the service was above what we had experienced in other places. The prices were not too bad either, considering its location.

Praça da Ribeira – Restaurant Deolinda – Porto, Portugal

Restaurant Deolinda – Vegetable Soup with Tuna Salad – Porto, Portugal

Restaurant Deolinda – Vegetable Soup with Cod Fish Fritters and Hot Chocolate – Porto, Portugal

The weather too, did not disappoint.

Fabrica da Nata Cafe

Known for its Portuguese Nata, or Pastel de Nata, are a custard cream delight found at Fabrica da Nata. There is a special little room within the cafe where they prepare these treats inside a glass enclosure. The cappuccino in Portugal is bit different from its Italian parent, it has more milk and is usually not as strong.

Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Inside – Porto, Portugal

Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Breakfast – Porto, Portugal

Popina Restaurant

On the smaller scale, if you are looking for an authentic Portuguese adventure in cuisine, look no further than Popina. They have classic dishes here that are served like appetizers and are meant to be shared, so think family-style in a way. You select several items from the menu, all of which are brought out when they are ready, and them divide them accordingly. The order in which they are brought out though can appear a bit confused and disorderly, but bear with the process and you should not be disappointed.

12 February, 202512 February, 2025

Lecce, Italy – Florence of the South – Part Three

What follows are some final thoughts on our stay in Lecce. Though we found the city intriguing, having an interesting history, some good food and enough sights to see to keep you busy, we don’t feel comfortable commending it for more than a few days at best. For the most part, the Città Vecchia is very quiet and doesn’t open until after noon. Even with the myriad number of churches, there are practically no other monuments, fountains or public places to enjoy. Other than that, there are not many connecting little towns in the area to plan day trips around.

Museums

To wrap up our visit to Lecce, we still had one museum left on our church ticket to see, as well as the private museum of Museo Faggiano. So on Monday we planned visiting them, eating lunch and then having a light afternoon.

Museo Faggiano

A private museum, the Museo Faggiano is located on Via Ascanio Grandi, 56/58, not far from our Bed and Breakfast. The host has a written tour guide in most European languages and everything is numbered, so it is not a difficult self-guided tour.

Museo Faggiano – Tickets For Two – Lecce, Italy

The museum was created by mistake in 2001 when Luciano Faggiano and his sons were digging to fix a plumbing issue. What they found made front page news, even in the United States. While digging out certain areas they discovered artifacts and burial places and had to stop and inform the proper authorities.

Museo Faggiano – NYT Article on archaeological discovery – Lecce, Italy

Luckily, with the proper guidance and help, they were able to turn it into the museum you see today, thanks to the efforts of the Archaeological Superintendence of Taranto and the Idume Cultural Association. The archaeological collection has artifacts starting in the fifth century BCE and spans the Roman, Middle Ages and the Renaissance.

Museo Faggiano – Old Water Drain System for Cistern – Lecce, Italy

Museo Faggiano – Dug as an Escape Tunnel – Lecce, Italy

Museo Faggiano – Tank and Cistern Pulley – Lecce, Italy

Museo Faggiano – Entrance Sign – Lecce, Italy

Museo Faggiano – Old 17th Century Tile and other artifacts – Lecce, Italy

Museo Faggiano – Very Cramped – Lecce, Italy

Museo Faggiano – 11th century Grain Silo – Lecce, Italy

Museo Faggiano – Cistern and Well – Lecce, Italy

From the eleventh until the thirteenth century the place was a Templar house and used for purposes of their cause. After that, it was converted into a convent in the early seventeenth century for the Franciscan Nuns of Saint Claire.

Museo Faggiano – Convent Rooms – Lecce, Italy

There are places along the tour, especially when descending where the well is and a few other spots, where it is rather cramped and the stairwell a bit claustrophobic, so take care.

Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Room – Lecce, Italy

Museo Faggiano – Another Escape Route – Lecce, Italy

Museo Faggiano – Other Holes and Routes – Lecce, Italy

Museo Faggiano – Escape route probably connected with Sant’Oronzo Square – Lecce, Italy

Museo Faggiano – Patti in Underground Room with Firepit – Lecce, Italy

Museo Faggiano – An Escape Passage and old foundation hole – Lecce, Italy

There is an overlook observatory, but frankly there is not much to see from that perch. It was probably used by the Templars as a lookout or alternative escape route since it appears to be attached to many of the surrounding roofs in the area.

Museo Faggiano – Observation Turret – Lecce, Italy

Story Of The Five Cavers

Apparently another archaeological dig is also documented in one of the rooms in the museum. It has to do with five cavers who discovered neolithic archaeological artifacts, handprints and pictograms in caves where they were spelunking around Otranto, Italy.

Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Room, La Grotta dei Cervi – Lecce, Italy

Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Diorama, Handprint Room, La Grotta dei Cervi, Otranto – Lecce, Italy

Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Diorama, Deer Room, La Grotta dei Cervi, Otranto – Lecce, Italy

Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Diorama, Burial Room, La Grotta dei Cervi, Otranto – Lecce, Italy

Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Diorama, Stalagmite Room, La Grotta dei Cervi, Otranto – Lecce, Italy

Museo Sigismondo Castromediano

The Museo Sigismondo Castromediano is a large and modern museum south of the old city on Viale Gallipoli. It houses ancient archaeological artifacts which are arranged in special themes.

Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Seascape Theme – Amphorae – Lecce, Italy

Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Seascape Theme – Anchors and Navigation – Lecce, Italy

Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Seascape Theme – Bronze and Iron Cannons – Lecce, Italy

Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Artwork in the garden – Lecce, Italy

Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Seascape Theme – Vessels of different types – Lecce, Italy

Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Seascape Theme – Vessels and Urns of different types – Lecce, Italy

Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Seascape Theme – Urn with mythical creature – Lecce, Italy

Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Seascape Theme – Cups and large Jugs – Lecce, Italy

Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Seascape Theme – Atrium – Lecce, Italy

Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Land Theme – Ancient Neolithic Artifacts – Lecce, Italy

Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Living Theme – Ancient Burial Artifacts – Lecce, Italy

Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Living Theme – Ancient Burial Stones – Lecce, Italy

Churches

We were told there was an interesting church to see in the new section of the city, so we headed over there to see both it and the water fountain not far from it.

Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio

The Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio, or Sanctuary of Saint Anthony in Fulgenzio is located the newer part of Lecce. It is worth a visit because of the beautiful frescos that adorn its ceilings.

Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Altar and Apse from Nave – Lecce, Italy

Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Altar, Crossing and Apse – Lecce, Italy

Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Left Transept – Lecce, Italy

Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Right Transept – Lecce, Italy

Restaurants

There are a few more restaurants that we visited while in Lecce. Of note are the ones below and of singular distinction is the Chinese Restaurant which we both found a surprise, not only for the extensive menu, but also for the quality of its foods.

Gusto Liberrima

It can be difficult on the weekends, especially Sunday, to find a place to eat that you do not need reservations. Gusto Liberrima located on Corte dei Cicala, 12, appears to be large enough to accommodate more people and might have openings when others do not. We met our new found friends Roland and Amanda at another place we tried to get into, only to be denied and then we tried Gusto Liberrima.

It has Cucina Tipica for the Puglia and other items on the menu, so one should be able to find something to their taste. Roland ordered the Finocchio Arrosto which we tried and it was amazing. It was roasted fennel with parmesan cream, pistachio and almonds crumbled with fresh truffle, very tasty.

Ristorante Gusto Liberrima – Finnochio Arrosto – Lecce, Italy

Patti and I both had the Velutata di Zucca or the pumpkin soup with gorgonzola, rosemary oil, basil cream, croutons, it was delicious. Patti ordered the Insalata Mediterranea which is made with rocket, carrots, tuna fillet, leccine olives, chicory, friscous, mustard mayonnaise, caramelized red onion and I ordered the Sagne Ritorte, which is just homemade pasta in a ragù, along with an Insalata Mista.

Ristorante Gusto Liberrima – Vellutata di Zucca – Lecce, Italy

Ristorante Gusto Liberrima – Insalata Mediterranea – Lecce, Italy

Ristorante Gusto Liberrima – Sagne Ritorte Integrale Artigianali, Insalata Mista – Lecce, Italy

Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du

Along the Viale dell’Università is the Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du. This restaurant has a modern interior and a lengthy menu offering items perhaps not very common. So if you looking for a change of cuisine from the usual Tipica Cucina, then this place may be the answer. Unfortunately at the time of this writing I could not find a website for them.

Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Inside – Lecce, Italy

Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Placemat – Lecce, Italy

The Noodle and Vegetable Soup is very good and can be highly recommended. Other dishes, including the Vegetable Rice Saltate and Cabbage with garlic and oil are also excellent choices.

Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Soup with Noodles, Cabbage and Scallions – Lecce, Italy

Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Noodle Soup and Vegetable Fried Rice with Shrimp – Lecce, Italy

Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Soup with Noodles, Cabbage and Scallions, Vegetable Fried Rice – Lecce, Italy

Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Pollo Piccante – Chopped Chicken with Red Pepper, Ginger, Onion and Black Pepper – Lecce, Italy

Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Chinese Cabbage in Garlic and Oil – Lecce, Italy

For our second time around we ordered the same soup and rice but changed our main dishes to Eggplant with Chopped Meat and Scallions, and Sweet and Sour Pork with Green Peppers.

Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Eggplant, Chopped Meat and Scallions – Lecce, Italy

Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Sweet and Sour Port with Green Peppers, Pineapple in Duck Sauce, White Rice and Fried Rice with Vegetables – Lecce, Italy

11 February, 202511 February, 2025

Lecce, Italy – Trains!

Anyone who has ever had an interest in trains, or perhaps would just enjoy a trip down memory lane, the Museo Ferroviario dell Puglia might be the place to stop on a lazy day during vacation or the weekend.

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia

Located in Lecce is the Museo Ferroviario della Puglia, or the Train Museum of Puglia. The museum has an extensive collection of period photographs, models and dioramas which reconstruct the evolution of the carriage compartment and other railroad memorabilia from 1937 onwards. From the first nineteenth century carriages with their steam locomotives, which were very similar to the old stagecoaches, the visitor enjoys a tour through railroad history. With displays on the Trans European Express (TEE), there are not only Italian examples of carriages, locomotives and communication history, but also examples from other European countries. There is also a brief display on the development of public railroads in America, before they were forced to their demise by politicians beholding to the automobile and oil industries, never to recover. The entrance fee is 5€ per person and worth every Euro. It took a little over an hour to complete the tour, stopping for photographs and reading many of the displays.

Warning: The opening and closing times for this museum may vary, so check to make sure you have plenty of time to get there before you try to go. The staff close the doors a little under an hour before the posted closing time and will not entertain any new visitors, so get there early or well within the closing time posted, or you will be turned away!

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Tickets For Two – Lecce, Italy

The Building And Sheds

The building where the museum is housed were former workshops of the Squadra Rialzo, or State Railways. These were in full operation until 1992 when their functions were transferred to newer facilities in Surbo Scalo.

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Entrance – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Entrance Accolades – Lecce, Italy

In the workshop, customary maintenance was performed on all carriages, locomotives and freight wagons at the time. Its name is derived from the fact that maintenance for the rolling stocks of the trains were actually carried out here for all axles, wheels, in addition to the carriage bodies and their contents. The current facility consists of two sheds, the first erected in the 1930s, the second with the trusses was built later, sometime in the 1970s. Both were used for numerous purposes, including offices, warehouse stocks, carpentry, forge, upholstery and heating systems. The yard had accommodation to raise wheel sets with a hoist, so that they may be reconditioned and maintained.

The Story

There is a long exhibit that details the history promised in the introduction. Taking you through the stages of evolution of the twentieth century train system in Italy. There are numerous boards to read, posters and model carriages to see along the first stage of the exhibits.

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Tour – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Carriage 1937 – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Posters – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Postal Service – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Italian Signs – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Cars from 1901-1940 – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Models – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – American Lines – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – English Lines – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – German Lines – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Swiss Lines – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – French Lines – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Mitropa Lines – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Southern Italian Lines – Lecce, Italy

The Carriages, Locomotives and other Railcars

There are life size exhibits of some of the carriages, freight cars, locomotives and other vehicles, some of which you can actually enter.

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Water Pump for Steam Engines – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Follow The Arrows – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Bagagliaio/Riscaldatore FS VDrz 809.251 Heated Carriage – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Conductor Station – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Hot Water Heater for the VDr 917 – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Exterior of Old Carriages – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Toilets – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Mail or Post and Cargo Room – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Second Class – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Southeast Line – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Carriage Connections – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Cargo and Freight – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Exterior of Carriage, Carrozza Passeggeri FSE CTcr 454 Milan – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Exterior of Carriage Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Exterior of Carriage, Carrozza Passeggeri FSE C 151 – Lecce, Italy – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Anonima Ferrovie Salentine (AFS) Carri Merci Aperti FSE L 4000 + P 6221 – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Exterior of Bagagliaio/Postale FSE DU 950 e DU 951 – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Vessel for Wine, the Carri Merci Chiuso e Cisterna FSE Ma 5000 + F 1402 – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Diesel Engine – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Machine – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Steam Engine, Locomotiva a Vapore FSE N. 316 – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Spring, Machine and Baggage – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Steam Engine, Locomotiva a Vapore FS Gr.905.043 – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Steam Engine, Locomotiva a Vapore FS Gr.835.244 – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Steam Engine, Locomotiva a Vapore FS Gr.835.244 Boiler – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Electric Engine, Locomotore Diesel-Elettrico FSE BB 159 – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Electric Engine, Locomotore Diesel-Elettrico FS E626.033 – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Engine, Automotore FS 216.0042 – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Engine, Locomotore Diesel-Ellettrico FSE BB 169 – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Engine, Locomotori Ellettrici FS E.323.105 + E.324.105 – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Engine, Automotore FS 207.023 – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Freight Yard Engine – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Steam Engine, Locomotiva a Vapore FS Gr.835.244 Boiler and Controls – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Engine, Automotore FS 207.023 Controls – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Locomotore Elettrico FS E 444.069 – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Il “Treno dell’Acqua” FS Dm 98.891 + M 950150 + M 550842 – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Carrozze Passeggeri FSE ABz 758 + Bz 614 – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Carrozze Cellulare FS Kz 48.622 – Lecce, Italy

Dioramas and other Models

In the later stages of the exhibits, there are numerous large train models, electrified train sets and other dioramas to enjoy. The scale of some of the train sets is impressive and one can immerse oneself in their activity for quite some time.

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Diorama – Lecce, Italy

Railroad Communications, Equipment and Forgery

There is a fairly large display on railroad communications from the mid to later twentieth century. Multiple versions of telephony equipment, switch control rooms and even maintenance shops with an old forge.

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Devices Used In The Yard – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Signals, Switches and Signs – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Erick enjoying the displays – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Erick posing in his uniform – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Communication Equipement – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Blacksmith tools – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Machine Lathe – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Drill Press – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Giant Machine Lathe For Resurfacing Wheels And Other Rail Equipment – Lecce, Italy

Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Electric Devices, Radios and Communications – Lecce, Italy

The Museo Ferroviario della Puglia, or Railway Museum of Puglia, is located on Via G. Codacci Pisanelli 3 in Lecce. From the entrance of the castle, it is probably a twenty-five to thirty minute walk along Viale Francesco Lo Re under the railroad underpass and to the right; it is located behind the existing train station of Lecce.

9 February, 202511 February, 2025

Lecce, Italy – Florence of the South – Part Two

Though some people choose to ignore basilicas, cathedrals and churches for whatever reason, Lecce is home to more than just a few. It seems that with almost every bend in the street, there is another one waiting to be entered by the faithful or curious. The truth probably is, that most visitors are just that, visitors and tourists.

Lecce’s Basilicas, Cathedrals And Churches

The Basilica di Santa Croce was the first basilica or church we visited, only because that is where we purchased our tickets. Yes, the most significant basilicas and churches in Lecce have a fee, 10€ per person, which gives you two weeks of access to all the places listed on the ticket. As of this writing, the following were accessible^[1]please note: the names may appear slightly different or abbreviated on your ticket:

- - Basilica di Santa Croce
  - Il Duomo – Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant’Oronzo
  - Cripta della Cattedrale
  - Chiesa di San Matteo
  - Chiesa di Santa Chiara
  - Basilica di Santa Croce
  - Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra
  - Museo Sigismondo Castromediano
  - Biblioteca Bernardini – Convitto Palmieri
  - Chiostro Antico Seminario – Palazzo del Seminario

Basilica di Santa Croce

The Basilica di Santa Croce is located on via Umberto I and was the first one church on the list that we visited, only because that is where we purchased our tickets.

Basilica di Santa Croce – Right Aisle – Lecce, Italy

Basilica di Santa Croce – Ceiling – Lecce, Italy

Basilica di Santa Croce – The Crossing and Ceiling – Lecce, Italy

Basilica di Santa Croce – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy

Basilica di Santa Croce – Nave and Altar – Lecce, Italy

Il Duomo – Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant’Oronzo

The Duomo in Lecce is also referred to as the Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant’Oronzo, or the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption and Saint Orontius, or simple the Lecce Cathedral, and is laid out like a proper Latin cathedral.

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – From Piazza Il Duomo – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Bell Tower – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Main Entrance and Facade – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Side Entrance – Lecce, Italy

The impressive nave, crossing and transepts are in the Baroque style and do not resemble other more impressive Gothic Cathedrals you will find in Europe, nonetheless there are things to see!

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Main Entrance – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Nave – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Right Aisle – Lecce, Italy

There a multiple radiating chapels, altar and two rather elegant transepts that one should admire for some time.

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Andrew the Apostle (1687), Right Side – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Charles Borromeo, Right Side – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Radiating Chapel or Altar, Right Side – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Giusto (1656), Right Side – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Our Lady of Sorrows, Right Side – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – John the Baptist (1682), Left Side – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Radiating Chapel or Altar, Left Side – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Side Entrance, Left Side – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – The martyrdom of Saint Giusto (1674), Left Side – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Anthony of Padua (also from 1674), Left Side – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Orontius of Lecce (1671), Right Transept Altar – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – The Immaculate Conception (1689), Left Transept Altar – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – The Crucifixion of Jesus and the Blessed Sacrament (1780), Left Transept – Lecce, Italy

The ceiling is also a marvel. Built from wood, it is intricately woven into a grand geometric pattern for anyone to enjoy.

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Apse and Crossing Ceiling – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Nave Ceiling and Organ – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Nave Ceiling by Crossing – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Ceiling – Lecce, Italy

Cripta della Cattedrale

The Cripta della Cattedrale, or the Crypt of the Cathedral, was restored in 2017 to its present condition. However, archaeological activities are still ongoing and work appears in some areas to have only started. The rest of the crypt, with the exception of a few painting, appears rather sterile.

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Patti entering the Crypt – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Closed Exit, Crypt – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Entry into Crypt – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Sarcophagus, Crypt – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Vaulted Ceiling and Altar, Crypt – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Side Altar, Crypt – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Restored in 2017, Crypt – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Archaeological Artifacts from the Crypt – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Archaeological Site, Crypt – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di San Matteo

The Chiesa di San Matteo, or Church of Saint Matthew, is small and very ornate and well decorated inside for its size. The marble was unquestionably carved by master craftsmen on top of their game.

Chiesa di San Matteo – Left Wall along the Nave – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di San Matteo – Right Wall along the Nave – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di San Matteo – Ambo or Pulpit – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di San Matteo – Nave – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di San Matteo – Side or Radiating Chapel – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di Santa Chiara

The Chiesa di Santa Chiara , or Church of Saint Claire, is a beautiful Baroque church in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II in Lecce. It has some marvelous side altars honoring some of the important saints from the area.

Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Ceiling – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Altar – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy

Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra

The Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra, or Sacred Art Museum, has a unique collection of religious artifacts of Catholic origins from the area.

Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Sacred Paintings and Art – Lecce, Italy

Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Saint Oronzo – Lecce, Italy

Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Other Sacred Works – Lecce, Italy

Other Basilicas, Cathedrals And Churches

There are a number of other cathedrals and churches worth your attention. Most map applications and a good map from a hotel, B&B or rental may have them marked. As of this writing, none of these cathedrals or churches required any entry fee or donation.

Basilica Del Rosario E Di San Giovanni Battista

The Basilica Del Rosario E Di San Giovanni Battista, or the Basilica of the Rosary and of Saint John the Baptist, was under restoration when we visited. The outside appears to be falling the street and they have erected scaffolding to protect the public. Inside, the entire roof trusses under the crossing were under reconstruction. Aside from that, the inside was rather bare and actually looked like a construction site, so aside from the alters which are still in place, there is not must else to see.

Basilica del Rosario e di San Giovanni Battista – Inside with bare Cupola, Altar – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia

Located directly across from the Roman amphitheater on via Ernesto Alvino and near the Castello Carlo V di Lecce (Castle Charles of Lecce) , is another excellent choice to visit.

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Nave and Altar – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Religious Painting in Foyer – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Intricate Ceiling – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Altar – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Carving on Wood – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa Del Gesu Del Buon Consiglio

Another church that you may enter for no fee is the Chiesa Del Gesu Del Buon Consiglio which is on the Strada Romana, or the Roman street, referred to today as Via Francesco Rubichi. The ornate altar and backdrop of the Apse is worth a stop. This along with the amazing wooden ceiling, these two things are demand some consideration and adoration.

Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Altar – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – A Side Altar – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Side Altar of Mary with Baby Jesus – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Nave Showing Renovations – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Ceiling – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Provvidenza O Delle Alcantoarine

The Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Provvidenza o Delle Alcantoarine, or the Church of Saint Mary of Providence or the Alcantoarine has a beautiful altar and wonderful Morena Glass chandelier along with a very simple interior.

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Provvidenza o Delle Alcantoarine – Nave and Altar – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Porta O Di San Luigi Gonzaga

The Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Porta O Di San Luigi Gonzaga, or the Church of Saint Mary of the Gate or of San Louis Gonzaga is another free church that you can stop in and admire very near to the Porta Napoli. Simple for its layout, its architecture is developed around a dome, rather than the traditional church layout.

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Porta o di San Luigi Gonzaga – Inside – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di San Niccolo dei Greci

Unable to enter, we were only able to take a photograph of the facade or outside of the church.

Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo

The small chapel of Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo is located very near to the Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra, or Sacred Art Museum; in fact, it right at the end of that tour.

Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo – Lecce, Italy

Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo – Altar – Lecce, Italy

References[+]

References
↑1	please note: the names may appear slightly different or abbreviated on your ticket

7 February, 20257 February, 2025

Lecce, Italy – Florence of the South – Part One

The second largest city in Apulia is called Lecce and is located on the Salentine Peninsula of Italy. It is rich in Baroque architecture, most of which is in the form of Lecce limestone and is often referred to as the Florence of the South. It one of the oldest settlements in southern Italy, with activity dating back to neolithic times.

Getting There

From Brindisis, or most other larger towns and cities on the east coast of Mezzogiorno, the FrecciaArgento is perhaps to quickest way to arrive. From Brindisi it is a short twenty three minute ride, a bit longer on the regional trains.

The City

Lecce is a typical ancient city which was at one time circumscribed with a protective wall with three main gates. The streets in the old Città Vecchia, or old history city, are narrow and mostly paved with stones.

The government here must be very careful of the city center, since it appears to have mitigated much of the traffic you would normally find in other similar cities of this size, making pedestrian traffic all that more enjoyable.

Interesting balcony supports – Lecce, Italy

Ports, Gates, Columns And Castles

There are numerous ports, gates, columns and obelisks in Lecce. These are spread out all of the city and are well labeled on most maps. The Triumphal Arch, or Porta Napoli, is the largest and one of the three gates to enter the Città Vecchia.

There is also the Porta San Biagio and a smaller one called the Arco di Prato, or Arch of Prato, which is somewhat hidden away within the narrow city streets.

The Obelisk of Terra d’Otranto can be seen close to the Porta Napoli and is rather tall. It was erected in 1822 in honor of one of the rulers of the Two Sicilies. On the other side of town one can find the War Memorial for soldiers lost in war.

Porta di Napoli – Obelisco di Terra d’Otranto – Lecce, Italy

In the Piazza Saint Oronzo you will find the Colonna di Sant’Oronzo, or the Column of Saint Oronzo. It is a tall pedestal with Saint Oronzo on top. The column itself was assembled from pieces of the one that fell apart in Brindisi in the mid sixteenth century, its twin can be found near the port of that city.

The Castello de Carlo V, or Castle of Charles V sits on the eastern edge of the historic city and below the Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens. It is a large structure and tours are offered, all of which are guided, so you cannot tour the grounds unaccompanied. A short walk from there you will the public park or gardens, which is always a good stop to rest your feet after a few hours of walking.

Castello Carlo V di Lecce – Lecce, Italy

Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens – Lecce, Italy

Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens – Fountain – Lecce, Italy

Roman Ruins

Lecce has in its old historic city not one, but two Roman amphitheaters. Unfortunately for us, both were being restored while we visited and photography was very difficult in both cases.

Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy

Roman Amphitheater, 2nd Century – Lecce, Italy

Where We Stayed

For the second time on this trip we have booked a Bed and Breakfast. I still cannot say I am fan, but there are times when alternatives to hotels may make a better fit. However, we only commit to such alternatives directly and after thorough research.

L’Orangerie d’Epoque

We stayed at a Bed and Breakfast called L’Orangerie d’Epoque on Viale Francesco Lo Re near the Porta San Biagio. A rather large building with a central portico that appears to have one owner.

Our room was on the ground floor with its own entrance to the portico. The entryway has a beautiful mosaic tiled floor, reminiscent of ancient Rome or Pompeii.

L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Entrance Mosaic – Lecce, Italy

L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Entrance Mosaic and Door – Lecce, Italy

The room was spacious, with a fireplace and split up into almost four equal parts. There was a large dining area by the entrance that flowed into a living room with several couches.

L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Our Room – Lecce, Italy

On the other side, there was another area with a television, breakfast table and then a bed with a desk for writing.

Restaurants

La Cucina di Mamma Elvira

This small restaurant has good food and wine at fairly reasonable prices. We actually went there late for lunch, around 14:40 and they still took our order and served us.

The service was very good and the menu had a decent choice of both local cuisine and other more general Italian items to chose.

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Front of the Building – Lecce, Italy

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Entrance, Cassa and Wines – Lecce, Italy

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Wines – Lecce, Italy

I ordered the Eggplant Polpette in Ragu Sauce with Ricotta Cheese, an Insalata Mista (mixed salad) and the Orecchiette with re-milled Semolina with Scottona Red Ragu and Patti ordered the Ciceri and Tria Pasta and shared my Polpette. All the dishes were very good. The wine was Negroamaro from the region and it was very good, served by the glass. The desserts you can see below and the espresso was also very good, not bitter at all.

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Eggplant Polpette in Ragu Sauce with Ricotta Cheese – Lecce, Italy

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Insalata Mista – Lecce, Italy

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Ciceri and Tria Pasta – Lecce, Italy

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Orecchiette with re-milled Semolina with Scottona Red Ragu – Lecce, Italy

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Salted Pistachio Semifreddo with Chocolate Crunchy, Martucci Spumone Hazelnut Chocolate – Lecce, Italy

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Espresso and Molinari Sambuca – Lecce, Italy

Miro Wine And Lounge

We stopped here for a drink and decided on a quick bite to eat, since we were both getting hungry and it was only a little passed eleven. We were actually surprised they were serving lunch.

Miro Wine and Lounge – Erick outside waiting for soup with a glass of red – Lecce, Italy

While we waited, I ordered a glass of Negroamaro from Puglia, a very nice wine that reminds me of Barbera. They had a nice bean and cereal soup on the menu that Patti and I decided to try and it was magnificent.

Miro Wine and Lounge – Bean and Cereal soup with Croutons – Lecce, Italy

Tranquillo

The restaurant Tranquillo is a more modern restaurant with two locations in Lecce, we chose the one located at Piazza Sant’Oronzo. The service and food were very good.

We dined late again at around 14:30, opting for a larger lunch and skipping dinner. We find this preferrable to eating again late in the evening and going to bed with a full stomach, something that we find does not lend itself to a good night sleep as we get older. I ordered the Apulian Bombette with Cheese on greens with a side order of Potato al Forno and Cicorie (Chickory), and Patti ordered the Cicorie on Pureed Fava Beans.

Tranquillo – Chicory side and Chicory on Pureed Fava Beans – Lecce, Italy

Tranquillo – Potatoes al Forno, Ricetta Bombette with cheese and a glass of red wine – Lecce, Italy

5 February, 20256 February, 2025

Ostuni, Italy – Città Bianca

Often referred to as La Città Bianca, or the White City, from certain vantage points, it does appear somewhat like the houses on Santorini island of the Greek Archipelago. It is however difficult getting a good photograph that represents it from a distance, unless you drive a car.

Panoramic view of the Adriatic – Ostuni, Italy

Getting There

A twenty minute train ride from Brindisi Centrale and a five minute bus drive from Ostuni Zona Sisri, is the small ancient city of Ostuni. The trains run at least every hour in both directions and perhaps even more often around rush hour times.

Follow the signs to the bus stop – Ostuni, Italy

Fermata, bus stop – Green Times – Ostuni, Italy

Even more importantly, it should be noted that getting back, not all Fermata are active where the bus should stop. Apparently, during the off-season the only one that remains active is the one at via tenente Specchia, where we were left off at the start of our journey. So plan on returning there and not at the one of the other two bus stops sometimes indicated in the city by other information sources.

Sign indicating Fermata closed from 13th January – Ostuni, Italy

The White City

The White City, or the Città Bianca^[1]which is actually the Città Vecchia or old city, is located on a mount or hill with a commanding view of the plain below. The newer part of the city stretches out towards the south and is rather residential and nondescript in nature.

Santuario Madonna della Grata – Ostuni, Italy

While in the main piazza, or Piazza della Libertà, this is a good place to stop for a coffee or drink. Here you will find several things to see, including the Colonna di Sant’Oronzo and the Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi.

Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi – Entrance – Ostuni, Italy

Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi – Nave – Ostuni, Italy

Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi – Ceiling – Ostuni, Italy

Comune Di Ostuni & Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi – Ostuni, Italy

Ahead, the climb is not that bad, but the city streets and passageways are rather serpentine and have a myriad of steps that go up and down, so bring rested legs. We spent a good part of a day here, we walked and climbed all over the place and traveled just over seven miles.

Steps up to part of the city – Ostuni, Italy

The Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta and Arco Scoppa are located in the same place in the Centro Storico di Ostuni at the top of the hill.

Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta – Ostuni, Italy

Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta – Nave – Ostuni, Italy

Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta – Ceiling – Ostuni, Italy

Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta – Old Wooden Doors and Old Iron Hinges – Ostuni, Italy

While meandering through the streets of Ostuni, we noticed several interesting doorways that had unusual flourishes and ornate features.

Aside from that, there are mostly lazy narrow streets, stairways and white houses in the city. From time to time, you will come across places to eat, but during this time of year, most of them are closed. They most likely open later in the March timeframe, when the tourist activity picks up.

Way to the north part of the Citta Vecchio – Ostuni, Italy

Restaurants

Al Cortiletto Vino e Birra Ostuni

The Al Cortiletto Vino e Birra Ostuni restaurant offers typical Italian food with some Pugliese items thrown in, so there is something for everyone. We had met some fellow travelers while on the bus from the Ostuni train station with whom we engaged in conversation during the ride. In order to finish what we had begun, they suggested we meet for lunch and this is the place they picked.

Patti and I ordered and shared the Bruschetta. Then she ordered a Tuna Salad and I had the Cheese Gnocchi with ragu. Unfortunately, we took no photographs and you will have to build a mental image of what we ate.

When we left, Roland and Amanda were on their way back to Lecce, where we are headed tomorrow and we returned to Brindisi. We traded telephone numbers and promised to stay in touch for a lunch or dinner when there, since they will still be there during our visit later this week into next.

References[+]

References
↑1	which is actually the Città Vecchia or old city

4 February, 20256 February, 2025

Brindisi, Italy – Rainy Day Detour

Brindisi, Italy – A Rainy Day Detour

If it is raining out and there is not much else to do, then a trip to Brindisi could be the cure for your rainy day. Though not much to see, nor much to look at, Brindisi does offer a few points of interest. We mainly used it for a short respite during our eighteen day visit to Mezzogiorno.

Getting To Brindisi

From Bari we reserved seats on the FrecciaArgento^[1]FrecciaArgento, or TrennItalia’s Silver Arrow service, as opposed to the FrecciaRosso, or Red Arrow service in other areas which only takes a hour. There are other regional offerings, however they usually take longer but are less expensive, so there are options.

Bari Centrale – Waiting for our FrecciaArgento – Bari, Italy

Brindisi does have a airport that is serviced by RyanAir. While here we saw several airplanes land and take off during the day and the airport was directly across the water on the other side of the city from our hotel.

Bindisi The City

Brindisi’s Citta Vecchia, or historical center, is a bit elongated but does reach to the bay where the port is located. The Corso Roma is the main avenue for shopping, though it cannot be compared to the one in Bari or other larger towns or cities we have visited along the coast.

Piazza Il Duomo And The Roman Column

The Piazza Il Duomo has the Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista and some other sites to see. The cathedral is rather plain inside, but somewhat impressive from the outside.

Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista – Brindisi, Italy

Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista – Modern Interior – Brindisi, Italy

The Colonne Romane, or Roman Column, was erected in the city to define one of the endpoints of the Appian Way, or the extent of Rome. Others have countered that they were merely erected as a visual aid for mariners to know where the actual port was located. There were two originally, of which only one still exists in all of its glory, the other crumbled in the mid sixteenth century. The crumbled remains of the one were donated to Lecce for their column.

Grande Albergo Internazionale

Our hotel was the Grande Albergo Internazionale located on the Viale Regina Margherita down by the water. We booked a suite which overlooked the water.

It is a somewhat dated hotel, but has enough amenities to be comfortable. However, the outside and inside looks like it is in need of some restoration. Our room was spacious and the bathroom modern which was a big benefit.

Grande Albergo Internazionale – Patti in our room – Brindisi, Italy

Grande Albergo Internazionale – Our room – Brindisi, Italy

Grande Albergo Internazionale – Our fully equipped bathroom – Brindisi, Italy

Grande Albergo Internazionale – Restaurant for Breakfast – Brindisi, Italy

Grande Albergo Internazionale – Outside our window – Brindisi, Italy

Lungomare di Brindisi

As the name implies, you are able to walk along the water for some length along the Lungomare di Brindisi. It starts near the parking area when you enter the port down to, but no further than the Approdo delle Indie. After that begins an Italian Naval Base and you are redirected up a set of stairs and away from the shore.

Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Italian Mariner monument from the Lungomare di Brindisi – Brindisi, Italy

Brindisi Shuttle Service

From the Lungomare, or Viale Regina Margherita, about where it intersects with Piazza Vittorio Emanuele III is one location you can pick up the shuttle. It has a four stop route along the inlet and completes the circuit about once every twenty minutes. One use, simple route charge was 1.20€ per person, which only excepts contactless credit card or NFC contactless payments from your phone, NO CASH.

Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy

Dock on the Airport Side – Brindisi, Italy

Saint John At The Sepulchre

The St John At The Sepulchre is an ancient eleventh century Church of the Holy Sepulcher with circular construction built over a pre-existing church. It was built to resemble the ancient Anastasis Rotunda of the Holy Selpuchre in Jerusalem with the intention of providing a memory of that structure.

St John At The Sepulchre – Brindisi, Italy

The monument is intended to show the close relationship between Brindisi and the Holy Land during the time of the crusades. Built by the Knight Order of the Canons Regular sometime before 1128, it was conceived to give those who could not pilgrimage to the Holy Land a feeling for that destination, and for those who have, a reminder of it.

St John At The Sepulchre – Main Entrance – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Media Presentation – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Media Presentation Showing Route To Isreal – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Other Items – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Old Nails, Hinges – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Side Entrance Lintel – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Patio – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Garden In Back – Brindisi, Italy

The hole in the floor shows Roman mosaics belonging to a large Roman house dating back to the first and second century CE.

St John At The Sepulchre – Columns – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Roman Ruins – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Roof Timber Works – Brindisi, Italy

There are multiple frescoes on the walls depicting several different important themes of Christianity. All of which have been damaged by previous ownership, no doubt to repurpose the building for other uses.

St John At The Sepulchre – Deposition From The Cross, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Deesis, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Saint Inside Arcat, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Flagellation, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – The Virgin And The Child, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Pentecost, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Saint George And The Dragon, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy

Porta Napoli

The Porta Napoli, also known as the Porta Mesagne, is the oldest entrance to the ancient city. It was constructed during Roman times by Marc Anthony to isolate the city from land side invasions. The Ruga Magistra or main street originated from this gate, which coincides today with via Carmine and via Filomeno Consiglio today.

Castello Svevo

Unlike the map that one of the major search providers tries to imply you can walk the entire way around bay to the Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia; this cannot be done. We found out the difficult way by walking to Castello Svevo or the Swabian Castle of Brindisi, only to find out that you cannot enter without a pass, it is an active Naval Base. Temporary passes can be obtained online, but there is a forty-eight hour waiting period (don’t ask – I have no idea why, however it is required before you may return and enter). Since we are not staying here that long we decided to forgo that pleasure.

Castello Svevo – Wall Battlements – Brindisi, Italy

Castello Svevo – Torrione dell’inferno – Brindisi, Italy

So, denied entry, we changed our plans and headed for the Fontana Tancredi, thinking that it might be a sight to see, and afterwards we could just walk toward the bay and find the Lungomare; no such luck on both accounts. Most of the area in and around the castle is restricted and cannot be entered, the fountain is fenced off, overgrown and only trickles water, so total failure on both accounts.

Via Provincial San Vito – Brindisi, Italy

Southern Italian Naval Base – Brindisi, Italy

In fact, they have very large naval ships anchored here as well temporary housing for illegal immigrants. We attempted to go as far as the tennis club, or Circolo Tennis Club, but then turned around. Had we known beforehand, we could have continued further and picked up the bay shuttle about a half kilometer further.

Castello Svevo – Map and where not to go – Brindisi, Italy

While walking back, we discovered the Santuario Santa Maria degli Angeli church. A nondescript church from the outside offers a better view from the inside. If you are in the area of Via Ferrante Fornari and see the church, it is worth to stick your head in and take a look.

Santuario Santa Maria degli Angeli – Brindisi, Italy

Santuario Santa Maria degli Angeli – Nave and Ceiling – Brindisi, Italy

Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia

The large monument across the bay is the Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia, a naval monument erected for the fallen navy personal of Italy. It has two shore guns on either side and may be climbed for a fee, there is a lookout on the top that has a commanding view of the city.

Restaurants

Most of the restaurants that we visited were down by the water and along the Lungomare.

Ristorante Windsurf

We chose this restaurant out of convenience, mostly because of the rain and threat of thunderstorms, and glad we did because while we were eating it poured. It was also conveniently located thirty meters from our hotel entrance.

Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – Lobster tank – Brindisi, Italy

Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – Patti waiting for food – Brindisi, Italy

The food is typical pizzeria food with a concentration on sea food for everything else. I chose a pizza and Patti stuck with a panini that they offered on the menu. The Negroamaro from Puglia was actually very nice, dry but not overly tannic.

Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – Patti’s Panini – Brindisi, Italy

Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – Erick’s Pizza with Copacola – Brindisi, Italy

Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – Erick’s Pannacota with strawberry sauce – Brindisi, Italy

Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – Patti’s Tartufo – Brindisi, Italy

Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – A Negroamaro from Puglia – Brindisi, Italy

Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi

A similar cafe and pizzeria as WindSurf is Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi, located just below the stairs to the Roman Column. We stopped here for a simple lunch consisting of salads, bread and pizza points. The wine was house wine, but was very good.

Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi – Patti’s Green Salad With Fruit And Nuts – Brindisi, Italy

We also stopped later in the evening for dinner, since they were one of the few restaurants around showing pasta with ragu sauce on their menus. Patti ordered the Penne all’Arrabbiata and I ordered the Tagliatelle al Ragú.

Final Thoughts

Although we both thought that Brindisi is rather clean and has some things to offer, we weren’t so sure that we visit, if we didn’t have so much time on our hands being retired. Therefore, for the casual visitor to Italy, we would not commend a visit, Bari and Trani have more to offer.

References[+]

References
↑1	FrecciaArgento, or TrennItalia’s Silver Arrow service, as opposed to the FrecciaRosso, or Red Arrow service in other areas

2 February, 20252 February, 2025

Trani, Italy – Unexpected Delight

On a lark, Patti decided to go to Trani, Italy for the day. The morning was clear, blue and fantastic, so we could not expect better weather.

Trani is a seaside town on the Adriatic Sea in the region of Apulia. It has great wine, olive oil and food. It has an active fishing community which supports the local economy.

Lungomare Cristoforo Columbo – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy

Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy

Lighthouses – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani – Basilica from the castle – Trani, Italy

The City

The city itself is well laid out, even for an ancient town. The historic center though windy and curvy is very clean and well labeled for tourist. After about an hour here we found it a most unexpected delight and were glad we came.

Chiesa Beata Maria Vergine del Monte Carmelo (o del Carmine) – Trani, Italy

Piazza Sacra Regia Udienza – Port of Trani – Trani, Italy

The Golden or Ancient door – Trani, Italy

The Piazze Quercia has a least one cafe or bar which has outside seating. It is a great place in the spring to stop before lunch and get a drink. We find it relaxing just to watch the locals and the boats going in and out of the harbor, and of course, enjoying the sunshine and the fifty degree weather.

Campari and Aperol Spritz, Mole 4 – Piazze Quercia – Trani, Italy

The Port Of Trani

There is a beautiful walkway or sidewalk that enables you to walk around the entire port. Unlike Bari, where you can do this if you can tolerate the smell, the port is clean and well maintained.

Live shrimp – Port of Trani – Trani, Italy

Fishing boats – Port of Trani – Trani, Italy

The fishing community appears to be active daily and some of the ships sell their catch right on the pier. You can find anything from live shrimp and fish to octopus. So, if you can cook in, bring your grocery bag and your wallet.

Parco Giochi Villa Comunale

The Parco Giochi Villa Comunale is located to the right of the Port of Trani as you walk as far as you can in the city. It has a portal that leads up to a great observation place, so that you get a commanding view of the boats and the jetties containing the lighthouses, which are all a different color.

Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy

Old Anchor – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy

War Memorial – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy

Lions protecting entrance – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy

Bar Boschetto – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy

Fishing boat going out to sea – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy

Park Seal – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy

There are some interesting monuments and an old anchor. Walking further, you will happen upon a aviary at the end of the park where they house parakeets.

We actually found it to be an amazing little park with little things to see, along with the aviary with parakeets they also have real parrots, which you will eventually notice are in the trees all around you. When we were here, they were all doing their crazy mating calls and dances on the ground, what a cacophony!

Parrots – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy

Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta

In the Piazza Duomo is the Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta, also known as Trani Cathedral. This cathedral is dedicated to Saint Nichola the Pilgrim. It is a very large structure, but it only opens later in the day around 15:30.

There are some restrictions when you enter, so please read the signs, though we saw no enforcement; having said that, it was winter and the slow season, so it may be impractical for them to oversee traffic during that time.

Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Patti inside – Trani, Italy

Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Frescoes – Trani, Italy

Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Frescoes in the Crypt – Trani, Italy

Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Orthodox bust in the Crypt – Trani, Italy

Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Altar in the Crypt – Trani, Italy

Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Entrance – Trani, Italy

Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Nave – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani

The Castello Svevo di Trani in just a small walk from the Piazza Duomo and Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta. There is actually not much to see, but it does have a few small things of interest. At one time it was a prison and had other incarnations as you go back in time to protect the town. It is also noted to have a large clock on its edifice.

Castello Svevo di Trani – Patti and the Basilica from the castle – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani – Diorama of the castle – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani – Painting as you enter – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani – Sala Federico II room – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani – Ruins leading to the prison area – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani – Architecture of the castle – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani – Old side portal in the castle – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani – Strange window – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani – Old prison area of the castle – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani – Lookout to the sea – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani – Large outside area – Trani, Italy

Restaurants

Since we were only doing a day trip, we were only able to visit one restaurant and that was for lunch.

Giù a Sud, Green Bistro

The Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot is located at Piazza Cesare Battisti in Trani. After viewing the menu outside we decided we would give it a try and we are glad we did.

Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Bar and Inside – Trani, Italy

Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Primitivo and bread – Trani, Italy

Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Bean and Lentil soup with croutons – Trani, Italy

Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Orecchiette and Broccoli Rape – Trani, Italy

The food and restaurant is sourced locally from green producers and prepared using artisanal recipes. They had a bean and lentil soup with croutons which was just delicious. I am pretty sure it is probably something that comes off the menu in the summer, but you may ask, in Italy you never know, especially in Mezzogiorno. We thoroughly enjoyed it.

1 February, 20251 February, 2025

Alberobello, Italy – Truly, Trulli Odd

Before I went to Alberobello, I had never heard of a Trullo house and I must say I find them rather odd. To me, they just appear as though they are a bit small and perhaps uncomfortable inside. But I guess it’s what you get used to in life.

How To Get There

From Bari the easiest way to get there is by the TrennItalia website, application or buying a ticket at the station. The bus arrives in front of the DOK supermarket on the back side of the train station, so from town you will have to use the underground train station passage to get to the bus stop, it is across the street of Via Giuseppe Capruzzi. The cost is minimal, 2€ per person each way. You may hear them referred to as the TrulliBus, but if you ask anyone locally they will be confused by your question. So use the destination name of Alberobello and there will not be any confusion.

Bus from Bari to Alberobello – Alberobello, Italy

Bus ride – Truli buildings – Alberobello, Italy

It arrives in Alberobello at that city’s train station and it is about a fifteen to twenty minute walk to the houses.

Alberobello

When one first sees a Trullo house one’s first impression might be that it is a rather strange place to live. However, there are other precedents in other cultures. Alberobello contains many such examples of these houses, now converted toward the tourists industry.

Monumento Dei Caduti in Guerre – Alberobello, Italy

Fountain – Piazza Giangirolamo II – Alberobello, Italy

Stairs with Truli house view – Alberobello, Italy

The Trullo House

Initially developed by farmers and herders as a temporary place to stay while performing their tasks. However, once learned that they could be used as a tax dodge, the Italians in the area converted them to more permanent residential building, while forgoing the need to pay their taxes.

Patti – Via Monte San Marco – Alberobello, Italy

Via Monte San Michelle – Alberobello, Italy

Chiesa Parrocchiale di Sant’Antonio da Padova – Chiesa a Trullo – Alberobello, Italy

Truly an authentic Truli home – Alberobello, Italy

Another authentic Truli home – Alberobello, Italy

Al Pozzo Illuminato shop – Alberobello, Italy

Restaurants

During the off season there are limited restaurants for lunch, so plan accordingly. However, there are a few that open all year.

Terra Mossa Ristorante Pizzeria

The Terra Mossa Ristorante Pizzeria was our second pick, but we happen to go there because it opened a half an hour earlier than our original pick.

Ristorante Terra Mossa – Entrance – Alberobello, Italy

Ristorante Terra Mossa – Inside – Alberobello, Italy

Located on Via Indipendenza, 4, it is a totally modern establishment and able to handle large crowds and tour groups. There were two visiting while we were eating and we did not experience any change in our service. The food is very good and they have English speakers, due to their location in a tourist area. It is prices slightly on the high side, but if you don’t go nuts two people can eat a fair lunch for around 40€.