Reggia di Venaria Reale was a royal residence and palace to the northwest of Turin, Italy. It was one of more that a dozen residences of the Savoy family. It was abondoned after the Napoleonic Wars and later became a military post and barracks and subsequently slowly fell into disrepair and abandonment. After a major restoration, it finally opened to the public in 2007 as a musuem and tourist attraction.
La Venaria Reale – Map of Complex – Turin, Italy
Getting There
The easiest was to get there from Turin is to take one of the SFM trains from Porta Susa towards the Turin Airport. Many of these trains stop at Venaria Station and it only takes about fifteen to twenty minutes and costs about €3.50 per person. We often use the phone application and do not book a round-trip ticket, since you never know how long you might stay, especially if you are planning for lunch as well.
Porta Susa – Leaving for Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Train Station at Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Train Station at Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Military Monument – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Andrea Mensa – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Andrea Mensa – Turin, Italy
The Palace
The palace is actually in two pieces, the original Palace of Diana from the seventeenth century in white stucco with a white clock tower and the latter eighteenth century addition in raw brick with the Belvedere Tower, where you enter.
La Venaria Reale – Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Clock Tower, Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Castelmonte – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Noble Families, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Noble Families, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Museum, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Art Room, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Art Room, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Castle Diorama, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
The Grand Gallery
Probably the most striking room and the pinnacle of the visit, the Grand Gallery is part of the Palace of Diana and a core piece of the original palace.
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Saubaud Generations, Bedrooms, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
Turin At The Turn Of The Century
There is a nice collection of maps, dioramas and other works depicting Turin at the turn of the seventeenth century. Interesting from the perspective of present day Turin and what was lacking back in the day of the House of Savoy.
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Piazza San Carlo, Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
The Rooms Of Art
There is also a fine exhibit of art at the palace. Located through the entrance to the gardens, the entrance is in the back of the Palace of Diana.
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
The Stables
Juvarra Stables
The Juvarra Stables contain a collection of the royal family’s modes of transportation, from a river gondolla, to the royal coach and other broughams, all the way to childrens toy coach.
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
The wall is surrounded by a historical account of a trip up the River Po using the gondola from Venice to Turin.
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
Alfieri Stables
Today these just appear as a hallway depicting the transition from a palace in ruin to full restoration. Some of the photographs in the collection are strinking and it is well worth thoughful look and some consideration.
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
The Gardens
The gardens here include several, the most conspicuous one is the Flower Garden. But there is also several orchards and three distinct terraces that one can walk through and enjoy the well manicured estate.
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Pig Sculpture in wood, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Patti, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Reflecting Pool, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Gondola Pool – Turin, Italy
Church of Saint Hubert
One has to walk to the Church of Saint Hubert from within the complex near the stables, outside entry is not possible. All of the pews have been removed, only the artwork, frescoes and a high altar remain, everything else is gone.
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
Restaurants
Il Convito della Venaria
Just on the corners of the Piazza della Repubblica and Via Andrea Mensa is the ristorante Il Convito della Venaria. A fine place for lunch, though probably a bit pricier than some of the alternatives, though restaurants and cafes appear to get sparser and sparser as you walk back towards the train station, so word of warning. We had a simple lunch of Bruschetta and two different pasta dishes, Patti had Maccheroncino al Tochio with Eggplant, Zucchini and Olives in a red sauce and I had the Agnolottini del Plin Piemontese Style, both were delicious.
Il Convito della Venaria – Pasta with Olives and Squash – Turin, Italy
Il Convito della Venaria – Plin Piemontese – Turin, Italy
Bern was originally settled by Swabians[1]The Zähringen noble family from around Freiburg im Breisgau in the twelfth century and quickly died out within a century. from the lower parts of Germany, it is the fifth largest in Switzerland and was initially surrounded by the Aare river on three sides, with fortifications protecting it’s west side.
Bern Train Station – Main Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Platform – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Main Waiting Hall – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Main Waiting Hall – Bern, Switzerland
The City
The old medieval city of Bern is rather compact, due to it being confined by the Aare river. The main train station is on the west side of the city, so it is probably best to find a hotel close to it. We stayed at the Hotel Savoy, three blocks away from the train station.
Gerberngasse – Interesting House – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Rose Garden Hill and Paul Klee Center – Bern, Switzerland
Walking from the train station to the Nydeggbrücke, via the Marktgasse of Kramgasse, should not take more than a twenty-five to thirty minutes without stopping. The main shopping avenue is the Marktgasse, which is lined with many watch stores and most other modern shops you expect to see in city that is heavily traveled. See the restaurant section below for where to go for food.
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Anna Seiler Brunnen – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Porticos and Shops – Bern, Switzerland
Rooftops and Houses across the Aare river – Bern, Switzerland
Old house – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Wasserwerkgasse from bridge – Bern, Switzerland
Brunnen Or Fountains
The city has a lot of brunnen, or fountains in English, especially down the middle of the Marktgasse. Most of these have figures or other mythical forms, stylized perhaps from some historical figure.
There is also the Lischetti-Brunnen, also known as the Postgassbrunnen or Upper Postgassbrunnen, which was erected in 1820 next to the Staatskanzelei (State Chancellery) and is to be used by anyone who wishes to experience being a fountain.
Lischettibrunnen – Kronenbrunner or Upper Postgass Fountain – Bern, Switzerland
Hotel Savoy
A fairly good hotel on the Kramgasse, sharing an entrance with another store. We found it reasonably priced for a Swiss hotel and central for visiting the city. The breakfast is rather expensive, as it is in most Swiss hotels, at 30CHF per person. We found this unreasonable and ventured out each morning to stop at one of the many Konditoreien, or pastry shops, in the neighborhood. This option ran around 9-10CHF per person, but was only coffee and a pastry, which for use was sufficient.
Hotel Savoy – Main Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedrals And Churches
A few religious buildings of note in Bern are the Cathedral of Bern and the Church of Saint Peter and Paul.
Cathedral Of Bern
Cathedral of Bern – Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Nave and Alter – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – History of Tower – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Houses of Patrons – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Intricate Facade over Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Fountain – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Backside – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Intricate Facade over Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Church Of Saint Peter And Paul
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Entrance, Rathausgasse – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Rose Window – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Nave and Altar – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Organ – Bern, Switzerland
Bridges And The Aare River
There are two central bridges that span the Aare at the tip of the city. The Untertorbrücke, the first one to be built and is shown on maps of the city from the seventeenth century, and the Nydeggbrücke, which carries the tram and modern vehicular traffic.
Untertorbrücke – Nydeggbrücke over the Aare – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – The Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – Patti and the Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – Patti and the Aare River, Rose Garden on the hill – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke and the Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Bären Park
On one end of the Nydeggbrücke is the Bärenpark, or Bear Park. As early as the beginning of the sixteenth century the city has been known to have a Bärengraben, or Bear Pit, of some type or another. Ostensibly the city becoming eponymously named for the same in 1191 when the Duke of Zähringen killed a bear first on one of his many famous hunts. But seriously, this is just conjecture and there is more evidence that it was from a pre-existing toponym of Celtic origin, possibly berna, meaning cleft.
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Einsteinhaus
On Marktgasse 49, visitors will find the Einsteinhaus, or the apartment that Albert Einstein lived in during his publication of his ground breaking theories of 1905, including his Special Theory of Relativity.
Kramgasse 49 – Einstein House – Bern, Switzerland
Kramgasse 49 – Einstein House – Bern, Switzerland
The Rosengarden Bern
One top of the hill on the other side of the Aare river is the park containing the Rose Garden, or Rosengarden. Unfortunately for us, the roses were not in bloom in May, so we were unable to enjoy their colors. However, there were other flowers, trees and bushes to be enjoyed in the park.
Rose Garden – Patti on walkway up to garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – Patti and the garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – The garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – The garden – Bern, Switzerland
It is here, that Albert Einstein probably contemplated many of the problems around his Theory of Relativity, and a bench here so commemorates his efforts.
Rose Garden – Einstein bench and overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
From this vantage point you get a very good view of the old Medieval city of Bern, with its many churches, bridges and old style houses.
Rose Garden – Overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – Erick and overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
Restaurants
The Bärenplatz and Waisenhausplatz are central areas for restaurants and have a good mix of local Swiss restaurants to Italian and other cuisines.
Bärenplatz – Market on Waisenhausplatz – Bern, Switzerland
Santa Lucia Ristorante
Another Italian restaurant which has a very active lunch crowd. Here you can enjoy reasonable prices and a wide selection of Italian dishes, including pizza. Our first evening here we enjoyed the soup and spaghetti.
Santa Lucia Ristorante – Minestrone Soup – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Spaghetti Bolognese – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Spaghetti and Tomatoes – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Banana Split – Bern, Switzerland
The second time we visited was for lunch, then I ordered a pizza, which was very good and typical of the Neapolitan style from Naples. The house wine is also very pleasant.
Santa Lucia Ristorante – Pizza Margherita – Bern, Switzerland
Ristorante Luce
On the corner of Zeughausgasse and Waghausegasse is the Italian restaurant of Ristorante Luce. If you are looking for higher end Italian food, look no further. The service here is also exceptional, though the seating was a bit cramped.
Ristorante Luce – Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Ristorante Luce – Patti with her Soup – Bern, Switzerland
Here they serve very good Italian specialties and have an excellent wine list. Here you can find Strozzapreti, or Priest Strangler/Choker Pasta with Mozzarella. A rather large and somewhat gummy pasta with an very interesting history.
Ristorante Luce – Strozzapreti Pasta with Buffalo Mozzarella – Bern, Switzerland
I can specifically attest to spending 150CHF for a 375ml bottle of Ornellaia 2019. A DOC wine from Italy with extremely high ratings which regularly fetches $250-$800 a bottle, a truly amazing wine. So if you are a true wine lover, your pallet might enjoy this restaurant.
Ristorante Luce – Ornellaia Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019 – Bern, Switzerland
If you are into hiking and enjoy a really good weekend excursion, then the Metropolitan town of Turin has something great to offer, the tiny little town of Ivrea. Known for being part of the Via Francigena[1]The ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome. and Five Lake hiking area, it is a great place to spend a few days.
Via Francigena – Hiking and Trail Sign – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Hiking and Trail Guide – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Way through the city – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Way through the city – Ivrea, Italy
Getting There
This town can be reached in just under an hour’s train ride from Porta Nuovo in Turin. The Regional Veloce (RV) runs directly from the main train station, through Porta Susa and onto Ivrea. Unfortunately, the line no longer continues to Aosta, so those who are stopping over have to use the bus service to continue their journeys.
Porta Nuovo Train Station – Main Lobby – Turin, Italy
Ivrea Train Station – Outside – Ivrea, Italy
The Hotel
We stayed at the Hotel 3T on Via Sant’Ulderico, a modern hotel that has most of the amenities. One thing I disliked about this hotel, at least during this time of year (Spring), is that the thermostat makes you believe you have control over the temperature in your room, when in fact you don’t!
3T Hotel – Castle Sabaudo, At Night – Ivrea, Italy
3T Hotel – Our Room, 209 – Ivrea, Italy
3T Hotel – Our Room, 209 – Ivrea, Italy
The Town
The town is cut in two by the Dora Baltea river, which offers a few courses for avid kayakers and seems to draw them from all over. The river here cuts right through the native diorite rock, which can be seen everywhere you look and presents a dark geologic hardness that makes it such a stable building foundation; practically everything, including the hospital, is built on it.
Dora Baltea River – Train Bridge to Aosta, closed – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Ponte Vecchio – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Train Bridge to Aosta, closed – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – From Ponte Vecchio – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Fontana Camillo Olivetti – Ivrea, Italy
There is not much to the town itself, just the Lungodora, or walkway along the river, and one central main street where one can find most of the shops, cafes and other stores.
Dora Baltea River – Corse Re Umberto – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Corse Re Umberto – Ivrea, Italy
Castle Saubauda
A large rectangular castle built in the fourteenth century by the Savoy family. It is only open certain times during the year and one has to reserve their guided tour ahead of time. We were only able to see the outside and sometimes at night it is lit up in different colors.
Sabaudo Castle – Ivrea, Italy
Sabaudo Castle – Ivrea, Italy
Ivrea Cathedral
Actually known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of Saint Mary, or Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, is very close to the castle on the hilltop. It is in need of restoration and there are several, apparently small projects already underway inside the cathedral.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Entrance – Ivrea, Italy
Inside the cathedral is actually quite impressive. The nave is well decorated with ceiling frescoes and religious art. It is quite dark and reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel before that was restored and suffers from decades, if not centuries or candle and other smoke.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Nave and ceiling – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Aisle – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen entrance – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, bricked up window – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Nave and Organ – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Transept – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen ceiling frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
The Crypt
The main attraction of the crypt are the frescoes. When possible the caretakers of the cathedral have installed lighting, so that you can adore without the need for using the flash on your camera, which you should never do.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Restaurants
Moma
Moma is actually a bar and restaurant, so you can stop their early for a drink before dinner, or wait until 7PM and dine there as well. They have a fairly good selection of food which may be considered cosmopolitan and some Piedmont dishes. Both of our dishes were very good and came with rather large portion size which is unusual of Italy.
Moma Restaurant – Pork Filet with French Fries and Coleslaw – Ivrea, Italy
Moma Restaurant – Norwegian Salmon with Potatoes and Eggplant – Ivrea, Italy
This area includes the Moorish Castle of São Jorge and a number of the overlooks that the area enjoys. Of course, there is also Lisbon Cathedral, which actually looks like it might have been destroyed by the great 1755 earthquake and rebuilt afterwards, but the cathedral and area were largely spared from any damage due to that quake.
Lisbon Cathedral – Exterior – Lisbon, Portugal
Perhaps contrary to popular belief, Lisbon and Porto are very busy ALL YEAR. It appears that since RyanAir has a HUB in Porto, everyone and his cousin comes to the area for at least the weekend and many for the entire week. This not doubt puts real stress on Porto, which I can not imagine during the summer when it is really hot and full of tourists.
Lisbon on the other hand is a larger city and can handle more people, however, it has the double wamy of having cruise ships dock as well. So expect the lower parts of Lisbon to be always crowded.
Some walk from the Chiado part of town, where our hotel was located, and across the promenade of R. Augusta, is a totally different part of the city, Alfama. Here you can find the Santa Apolónia train station; in fact, check any train ticket you have that travels to Porto or beyond, and you might notice that it might not be necessary to go all the way to Oriente train station, some of those trains actually start in Santa Apolónia.
Tagus River to the Ocean – Lisbon, Portugal
If you walk the area it is quite steep, so be prepared, or for those less inclined to walk and climb, take an alternate mode of transportation like the 12E Tram, a Tuk-Tuk or the bus.
Overlook of Gra̤a РLisbon, Portugal
Church of Our Lady of Grace
The Church of Our Lady of Grace stands on top of one of the hills on this side of the city. It has a beautiful ceiling in the nave, but the altar is rather plain and typical among other churches we have seen.
Church of our Lady of Grace – Lisbon, Portugal
Church of our Lady of Grace – Nave – Lisbon, Portugal
Adjacent to the church is the Convent of Grace, which is temporarily being used as a modern art museum. However, it is nice just to drop in and see the fascinating Portuguese tiling that adorns the walls.
Church of our Lady of Grace – Convent – Lisbon, Portugal
Church of our Lady of Grace – Convent – Lisbon, Portugal
Castle of São Jorge
The Castle of São Jorge is a large Moorish castle with a commanding view of the overall area of Lisbon. It has a surrounding wall with a central castle and a number of amenities, including a cafe and a restaurant.
Castle Gate and Wall – Lisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РTagus River РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РTagus River and Bridge of the 25th of April РLisbon, Portugal
Though you can purchase tickets at the gate, we found the entire staff appeared to be very confused and we got numerous conflicting stories as to what was available, when and where we had to queue in line. We decided to purchase our tickets online, this was actually quicker and more convienent. However, we still had to stand in a line for about an hour, and it isn’t even tourist season, so bring your patience.
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РLisbon Overlook Area РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РPoints of Interest in Tile РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РOld Bronze Cannon РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РInterior РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РPeacocks РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РEntrance to Castle proper РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РInterior of Castle РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РInterior of Castle, Ramparts РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РInterior of Castle РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РInterior of Castle РLisbon, Portugal
Church of Saint Vincent de Fora
The Church of Saint Vincent de Fora is actually pretty far from everything else, but still walkable. From the Church of Grace and some of the observations points, it can be easily seen in the distance, usually with the National Pantheon dome looming in the frame.
Church of St. Vincent de Fora – Dome of the National Pantheon – Lisbon, Portugal
The interior is actually quite spartan and perhaps not worth the effort. However, for a fee you can enter other portions of the grounds like the sacristy, which is known to be far more opulent than the church itself. Having been in so many churches in the past few months, we decided to save our money and continue our travels.
Saint Vincent de Fora – Exterior – Lisbon, Portugal
Saint Vincent de Fora – Nave and Interior – Lisbon, Portugal
Noted in history as the port from which Vasco da Gama departed for his adventures to India, this port town’s most noticeable attribute is it tower. But there is also the monastery, its cloister and the church, all of which represent fabulous examples of the late Gothic Portuguese Manueline style of architecture.
Monastery Square – Lisbon, Portugal
Jerónimos Monastery and the Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem
When you exit the tram the first thing you notice is the Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem across the street. Then the Jerónimos Monastery comes into view, as an extension to these architectural marvels.
Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem – Jerónimos Monastery – Lisbon, Portugal
Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem – Jerónimos Monastery – Lisbon, Portugal
After we visited the Church of St. Vincent we stopped at a small restaurant along the way back called Rendez Vous. They have sort of an eclectic menu which probably does not appeal to everyone, but we found the food and wine very good and would commend the place to anyone looking for something a little different.
Rendez Vour Restaurant – Tuna Salad – Lisbon, Portugal
Rendez Vour Restaurant – Greek Salad, Bread and Fries with Olive Oil and Oregano – Lisbon, Portugal
With optimism in the weather and a plan for a good day, we headed to Sintra, Portugal, in the hopes of seeing the Moorish Castle or the National Palace of Pena. Unfortunately, shortly after we arrived our hopes were dashed after we learned the weather had trashed the place and everything in the park was more or less closed due to too many fallen trees, so a missed outing.
Park – Sintra, Portugal
How To Get There
By metro it takes about forty-five minutes, leaving Lisbon’s Rossio metro station, a number of blocks from our hotel uphill, to Sintra station about a dozen stops away. This metro line is very busy, so be prepared.
Tickets For Two – Sintra, Portugal
Rossio Station – Platform – Lisbon, Portugal
Train Station – Sintra, Portugal
The Town
Is chaotically laid out and has many narrow passageways and alleys. As with most of Portugal, you get the feeling you must always climb up or down, so be prepared for a lot of steps.
Old Buildings – Sintra, Portugal
Municipal Building – Sintra, Portugal
Quinta da Regaleira
The Quinta da Regaleira was another issue. Though we wanted to visit the property, it only has reservations and time slots. Aside from that, the line was so long, since everyone was looking for alternatives due to the closures, that it was quickly out of available times. So we took some photographs and turned around.
Quinta da Regaleira Palace – Sintra, Portugal
Quinta da Regaleira Palace – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace
Having failed to come on a day when the majority of the park was open, we settled on the Biester Palace, so that the day and trip was not a total loss.
Biester Palace – Map – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Stairs to Palace – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Front – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Back Entrance – Sintra, Portugal
Not technically a palace, the residence that is called Biester Palace stands prominently and views from the grounds are very nice. The grounds are quiet enough and there is a cafe where one can enjoy a hot or cold drink while enjoying the beautiful flora.
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
The house itself is decorated with wood, a majority of its finish and main rooms are adorned with something similar, if not, oak. One comes away with the house having an almost Spartan interior and the chapel appears to be the most adorned room in the house.
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Chapel – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Bathroom – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Scullery – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
There is an elevator, though it was never electrified and gives the appearance that it was only used when company was present, or for other civil tasks.
Biester Palace – Elevator Hand Mechanism – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Elevator – Sintra, Portugal
The Ninth Gate
One claim to fame this house has that might appeal to some, it was one of the locations where Roman Polanski shot the film The Ninth Gate. It was during Dean Corso’s travels to visit Victor Fargas that the house and fountain are involved in the movie.
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Ninth Gate Book Prop and Postcards – Sintra, Portugal
Restaurants
In Sintra there are plenty of restaurants and cafes, so you shouldn’t have a difficult time to find a place to eat.
Fatto da Claudio Coelho
A nice place for lunch, service Italian food and other specialties. We each shared the bruschetta and a pasta special, so something simple and somewhat light.
Fatto da Claudio Coelho – Entrance – Sintra, Portugal
Fatto da Claudio Coelho – Patti Waiting For Lunch – Sintra, Portugal
Our first day consisted mostly of getting to know Lisbon a bit and visiting the main piazza, walking the main avenue and visiting the park. The weather could not have been better and we enjoyed blue skies and mild temperatures for our outing.
Caldeirinha Dock – Lisbon, Portugal
The City
Since our hotel was located in Chiado, the Avenue of Ribeira das Naus was not far away. First we visited a few monuments along the riverfront and some artwork, then we headed for the Piazza of Commerce.
Typical Street – Lisbon, Portugal
Pink Street – Lisbon, Portugal
Duke of Terceira – Lisbon, Portugal
Avenue Rua Augusta – Lisbon, Portugal
Park Of Europe
The city is actually pretty nice and very clean, the city appears to make a concerted effort to maintain the streets and cleaning activities can be seen all around. A few blocks below our hotel was the Avenue of Ribeira das Naus, a gorgeous waterfront walk that takes you to the piazza. On a clear day, it is crowded by tourists and weekenders walking leisurely toward their unknown destinations.
Tagus River Inlet – Lisbon, Portugal
Avenue Ribeira das Naus – Lisbon, Portugal
Avenue Ribeira das Naus – Lisbon, Portugal
Avenue Ribeira das Naus – Lisbon, Portugal
Piazza of Commerce
The first really large attraction to see in the city is the piazza, which proudly displays the Gate of Rua Augusta as one of its entry points.
Plaza of Commerce – Arch of Rua Augusta – Lisbon, Portugal
Plaza of Commerce – Arch of Rua Augusta – Lisbon, Portugal
To get there we walked the Avenue of Liberation, a long and beautiful walk covered by sampietrini (small cobblestone) and dotted by fountains. It is flanked by high-end stores and dealerships and a shoppers paradise no doubt.
Rossio Plaza – Fountain of Anjinhos – Lisbon, Portugal
Avenue of Liberty – Fountain – Lisbon, Portugal
Avenue of Liberty – Trees in bloom – Lisbon, Portugal
Avenue of Liberty – Fountain – Lisbon, Portugal
Avenue of Liberty – WWI Monument – Lisbon, Portugal
Avenue of Liberty – Marques De Pombal – Lisbon, Portugal
Park Of Eduardo VII
It is a rather large park that rises up out of the bowl that is Lisbon is the Park of Eduardo VII, named after a king of the United Kingdom.
Park of Eduardo VII – Lisbon, Portugal
Park of Eduardo VII – Carlos Lopes Pavillion – Lisbon, Portugal
Park of Eduardo VII – Lisbon, Portugal
Park of Eduardo VII – Lisbon, Portugal
Park of Eduardo VII – Monument of the 25th of April aka “Pirilau” – Lisbon, Portugal
Park of Eduardo VII – Lisbon, Portugal
Throughout the city you will find many different modes of transportation. The most ubiquitous form would be the Tuk-Tuk trucks that are all over the main tourist spots. When you venture further out, you will have to look for more mundane forms, like the streetcar or tram, which we have in Turin and find eminently fitted for the job. There are also numerous cable cars sprinkled throughout the city, where the hills dictate a hardy form of transport.
PrÃncipe Real – Old Tram Line and Stop – Lisbon, Portugal
Calçada da Glória – Old Cable Car – Lisbon, Portugal
Restaurants
Though we have sampled the Portuguese cuisine, we found that there is only so much of it one can eat; so we quickly revert back to the food we love.
La Trattoria
La Trattoria is an Italian restaurant in the San Antonio district of central Lisbon. It is not easy to find and we found ourselves to be practically the only tourists there, the rest were business people who come to enjoy the buffet. It is a contemporary Italian restaurant that offers many staple Italian dishes, as well as the buffet for a fixed price. The food is very good and priced a little higher than you will find in other areas.
La Trattoria Restaurant – Inside – Lisbon, Portugal
La Trattoria Restaurant – Inside – Lisbon, Portugal
La Trattoria Restaurant – Calzone – Lisbon, Portugal
La Trattoria Restaurant – Margherita Pizza – Lisbon, Portugal
On our last day in Porto, we saw the Lello Bookstore, the Old Stock Exchange and took the funicular up to the upper portion of the Luis I Bridge and rode the gondola back down to the Vila Nuova de Gaia.
Funicular of Guindais – Porto, Portugal
Second Great Wall Of The City – Porto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge – Upper Bridge – Porto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge – Upper Bridge, Vila Nuovo de Gaia – Porto, Portugal
Lello Bookstore
After an early start we climbed our way back up to the Miragaia, not only for breakfast, but to stand in line to see the inside of a bookstore.
Lello Bookstore – Entrance – Porto, Portugal
Lello Bookstore – Ceiling and Staircase – Porto, Portugal
Lello Bookstore – Ceiling and Staircase – Porto, Portugal
Lello Bookstore – Ceiling Skylight – Porto, Portugal
Lello Bookstore – Decus in Labore – Porto, Portugal
Lello Bookstore – Skylight – Porto, Portugal
Lello Bookstore – Upstairs – Porto, Portugal
Palácio da Bolsa
The Palácio da Bolsa, the Stock Exchange Palace or Euronext Lisbon, used to house the stock exchange for Portugal. Now, only certain members of the administration have offices here, and hence, it is required to have guided tours.
Palace Stock Exchange – Exterior – Porto, Portugal
Palace Stock Exchange – Chairmen Room – Porto, Portugal
Palace Stock Exchange – Meeting Room Ceiling – Porto, Portugal
Palace Stock Exchange – Commercial Telegraph – Porto, Portugal
Palace Stock Exchange – Eiffel Room – Porto, Portugal
Palace Stock Exchange – Last Royal Family Portraits – Porto, Portugal
Palace Stock Exchange – Plaster False Wood – Porto, Portugal
The tour only lasts for about thirty minutes and you learn of the many former leaders and functions of the palace. It is an active building and holds many events internally, including operettas for small crowds.
Palace Stock Exchange – Galleria – Porto, Portugal
Palace Stock Exchange – Bronze Chandeliers – Porto, Portugal
Palace Stock Exchange – Main Stairway – Porto, Portugal
Palace Stock Exchange – Bronze Chandeliers – Porto, Portugal
Of particular note is the reception room where the wealth of the stock exchange and Portugal was to promote and entice investors. The walls are festooned with non-sensical Arabic symbols denoting the rooms secular monetary cause.
Palace Stock Exchange – False Arabian Secular Meeting Room – Porto, Portugal
Palace Stock Exchange – False Arabian Secular Meeting Room – Porto, Portugal
Palace Stock Exchange – Arabic Secular Saying – Porto, Portugal
Six Bridges Cruise
There are several lines that promote a voyage to see the six bridges along the River Duoro in the area. The problem is, it is actually only five bridges and one viaduct, so don’t be surprised if your counting is minus one. However, we found it a good fifty minute excursion along the waterway and rather relaxing, if not totally uneventful.
Palace Stock Exchange – Six Bridges Cruise – Porto, Portugal
Palace Stock Exchange – Six Bridges Cruise – Porto, Portugal
Palace Stock Exchange – Six Bridges Cruise – Porto, Portugal
Palace Stock Exchange – Six Bridges Cruise – Porto, Portugal
Palace Stock Exchange – Six Bridges Cruise, Out To The Ocean – Porto, Portugal
After a dismal start and a break in the weather, we were able to explore the city of Porto a bit more rigorously. There are probably only a handful of streets that do not go up or down, so have your trekking legs prepared.
Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal
São Bento Train Station
The inner city train station, and perhaps the original Porto Central Station, is the São Bento Train Station. Known for its tiled waiting hall, it is known now more for its artwork than for its use as a primary station; Campahnã having eclipsed it as the main train station now. Unfortunately, it is beset by a very large public works project outside at the moment, so access is through side entrances for the most part.
Sao Bento Train Station – Entry Hall – Porto, Portugal
Sao Bento Train Station – Entry Hall – Porto, Portugal
Sao Bento Train Station – Tracks – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira
A scenic spot on the River Duoro in the center of the old city is the Praça da Ribeira. It has several pieces of art to enjoy and the Cube Fountain, which is surrounded by a myriad of restaurants and cafe tents. It is along the Cias de Ribeira or promenade where you can enjoy a nice walk, listen to music or just enjoy the river.
Pra̤a da Ribeira РPorto, Portugal
Pra̤a da Ribeira РPorto, Portugal
Pra̤a da Ribeira РPorto, Portugal
Pra̤a da Ribeira РCube Fountain РPorto, Portugal
LuÃs I Bridge
Between the Praça da Ribeira, RibeiraDoPorto and the other side of the river, or Vila Nova de Gaia, is the LuÃs I Bridge, which was originally proposed by Gustave Eiffel, even though he did not win the competition to build it.
Pra̤a da Ribeira РLuis I Bridge РPorto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge – Douro River Upstream – Porto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge – Vila Nova de Gaia – Porto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge РView of Pra̤a da Ribeira РPorto, Portugal
Pra̤a da Ribeira РLuis I Bridge РPorto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia
On the other side of the river is the area or civil parish of Vila Nova de Gaia. This prefecture or parish you can find many of the great port wine houses, such as Sandeman, Kopke and Warres to name a few. It also has a very nice river side promenade that can be enjoyed on a nice sunny day.
Vila Nova de Gaia РPra̤a da Ribeira РPorto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia – Sandeman Port – Porto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal
Churches
Our visit here continues with a few other churches, which we were unable to see the previous day.
Church Of Saint Anthony
A regular church by any measure, the church of St. Anthony does have a remarkable gilded altar, which would be the prize of any structure.
Church of Saint Anthony – Outside – Porto, Portugal
Church of Saint Anthony – Nave and Altar – Porto, Portugal
Church of Saint Anthony – Altar – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church
Best known for its Portuguese tiled exterior, the Carmo Church sits on top of the hill next to the Lion Fountain and its park. The tiling on the outside is unfortunately covered with a gauze, no doubt to protect the surface of the tiles from prolonged exposure to the elements, so taking photographs at a distance is probably best.
Tickets For Two – Carmo Church – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Entrance with Church of the Carmelitas on the left – Porto, Portugal
The interior is nice and in the baroque style of churches. Its other claim to fame are the side altars depicting Christ in one form of tribulation or another.
Carmo Church – Nave from above – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Organ – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Nave and Altar – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Nave and Organ from above – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Side Altar – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Side Altar – Porto, Portugal
The Hidden House
Between the Carmo Church and the Church of the Carmelites is the Hidden House. A four story structure built between the two to prevent the appearance of impropriety, though it has had other uses throughout its 250 years.
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
The Museum
The museum of the Carmo Church houses the typical treasure and other important items used and passed down by the church through the years. There are some things of note, like the collection of hands, as well as other peculiar things that have to be seen to believe.
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Restaurants and Cafes
The restaurants and cafes in Porto come in clusters, perhaps due to it being a tourist hot spot. They seem to line most of the more important streets and more heavily trafficked areas.
Casa Deolinda
A good spot for lunch would be the Casa Deolinda right within the Praça da Ribeira. We actually felt more compelled to eat here only due to the weather, but we were not disappointed. The food was good and the service was above what we had experienced in other places. The prices were not too bad either, considering its location.
Pra̤a da Ribeira РRestaurant Deolinda РPorto, Portugal
Restaurant Deolinda – Vegetable Soup with Tuna Salad – Porto, Portugal
Restaurant Deolinda – Vegetable Soup with Cod Fish Fritters and Hot Chocolate – Porto, Portugal
The weather too, did not disappoint.
Fabrica da Nata Cafe
Known for its Portuguese Nata, or Pastel de Nata, are a custard cream delight found at Fabrica da Nata. There is a special little room within the cafe where they prepare these treats inside a glass enclosure. The cappuccino in Portugal is bit different from its Italian parent, it has more milk and is usually not as strong.
Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Making Pastries – Porto, Portugal
Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Inside – Porto, Portugal
Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Breakfast – Porto, Portugal
Popina Restaurant
On the smaller scale, if you are looking for an authentic Portuguese adventure in cuisine, look no further than Popina. They have classic dishes here that are served like appetizers and are meant to be shared, so think family-style in a way. You select several items from the menu, all of which are brought out when they are ready, and them divide them accordingly. The order in which they are brought out though can appear a bit confused and disorderly, but bear with the process and you should not be disappointed.
What follows are some final thoughts on our stay in Lecce. Though we found the city intriguing, having an interesting history, some good food and enough sights to see to keep you busy, we don’t feel comfortable commending it for more than a few days at best. For the most part, the Città Vecchia is very quiet and doesn’t open until after noon. Even with the myriad number of churches, there are practically no other monuments, fountains or public places to enjoy. Other than that, there are not many connecting little towns in the area to plan day trips around.
Museums
To wrap up our visit to Lecce, we still had one museum left on our church ticket to see, as well as the private museum of Museo Faggiano. So on Monday we planned visiting them, eating lunch and then having a light afternoon.
Museo Faggiano
A private museum, the Museo Faggiano is located on Via Ascanio Grandi, 56/58, not far from our Bed and Breakfast. The host has a written tour guide in most European languages and everything is numbered, so it is not a difficult self-guided tour.
Museo Faggiano – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Tickets For Two – Lecce, Italy
The museum was created by mistake in 2001 when Luciano Faggiano and his sons were digging to fix a plumbing issue. What they found made front page news, even in the United States. While digging out certain areas they discovered artifacts and burial places and had to stop and inform the proper authorities.
Museo Faggiano – NYT Article on archaeological discovery – Lecce, Italy
Luckily, with the proper guidance and help, they were able to turn it into the museum you see today, thanks to the efforts of the Archaeological Superintendence of Taranto and the Idume Cultural Association. The archaeological collection has artifacts starting in the fifth century BCE and spans the Roman, Middle Ages and the Renaissance.
Museo Faggiano – Old Water Drain System for Cistern – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Dug as an Escape Tunnel – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Tank and Cistern Pulley – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Entrance Sign – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Old 17th Century Tile and other artifacts – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Very Cramped – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – 11th century Grain Silo – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Cistern and Well – Lecce, Italy
From the eleventh until the thirteenth century the place was a Templar house and used for purposes of their cause. After that, it was converted into a convent in the early seventeenth century for the Franciscan Nuns of Saint Claire.
Museo Faggiano – Convent Rooms – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Convent Rooms – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Convent Rooms – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Convent Rooms – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Convent Rooms – Lecce, Italy
There are places along the tour, especially when descending where the well is and a few other spots, where it is rather cramped and the stairwell a bit claustrophobic, so take care.
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Room – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Another Escape Route – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Other Holes and Routes – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Escape route probably connected with Sant’Oronzo Square – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Patti in Underground Room with Firepit – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – An Escape Passage and old foundation hole – Lecce, Italy
There is an overlook observatory, but frankly there is not much to see from that perch. It was probably used by the Templars as a lookout or alternative escape route since it appears to be attached to many of the surrounding roofs in the area.
Museo Faggiano – Observation Turret – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Observation Turret – Lecce, Italy
Story Of The Five Cavers
Apparently another archaeological dig is also documented in one of the rooms in the museum. It has to do with five cavers who discovered neolithic archaeological artifacts, handprints and pictograms in caves where they were spelunking around Otranto, Italy.
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Room – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Room, La Grotta dei Cervi – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Diorama, Handprint Room, La Grotta dei Cervi, Otranto – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Diorama, Deer Room, La Grotta dei Cervi, Otranto – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Diorama, Burial Room, La Grotta dei Cervi, Otranto – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Diorama, Stalagmite Room, La Grotta dei Cervi, Otranto – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano
The Museo Sigismondo Castromediano is a large and modern museum south of the old city on Viale Gallipoli. It houses ancient archaeological artifacts which are arranged in special themes.
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Seascape Theme – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Land Theme – Ancient Neolithic Artifacts – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Living Theme – Ancient Burial Artifacts – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Living Theme – Ancient Burial Artifacts – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Living Theme – Ancient Burial Artifacts – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Living Theme – Ancient Burial Stones – Lecce, Italy
Churches
We were told there was an interesting church to see in the new section of the city, so we headed over there to see both it and the water fountain not far from it.
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio
The Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio, or Sanctuary of Saint Anthony in Fulgenzio is located the newer part of Lecce. It is worth a visit because of the beautiful frescos that adorn its ceilings.
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Exterior Facade and Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Altar and Apse from Nave – Lecce, Italy
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Altar, Crossing and Apse – Lecce, Italy
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Left Transept – Lecce, Italy
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Right Transept – Lecce, Italy
Restaurants
There are a few more restaurants that we visited while in Lecce. Of note are the ones below and of singular distinction is the Chinese Restaurant which we both found a surprise, not only for the extensive menu, but also for the quality of its foods.
Gusto Liberrima
It can be difficult on the weekends, especially Sunday, to find a place to eat that you do not need reservations. Gusto Liberrima located on Corte dei Cicala, 12, appears to be large enough to accommodate more people and might have openings when others do not. We met our new found friends Roland and Amanda at another place we tried to get into, only to be denied and then we tried Gusto Liberrima.
It has Cucina Tipica for the Puglia and other items on the menu, so one should be able to find something to their taste. Roland ordered the Finocchio Arrosto which we tried and it was amazing. It was roasted fennel with parmesan cream, pistachio and almonds crumbled with fresh truffle, very tasty.
Patti and I both had the Velutata di Zucca or the pumpkin soup with gorgonzola, rosemary oil, basil cream, croutons, it was delicious. Patti ordered the Insalata Mediterranea which is made with rocket, carrots, tuna fillet, leccine olives, chicory, friscous, mustard mayonnaise, caramelized red onion and I ordered the Sagne Ritorte, which is just homemade pasta in a ragù, along with an Insalata Mista.
Ristorante Gusto Liberrima – Vellutata di Zucca – Lecce, Italy
Along the Viale dell’Università is the Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du. This restaurant has a modern interior and a lengthy menu offering items perhaps not very common. So if you looking for a change of cuisine from the usual Tipica Cucina, then this place may be the answer. Unfortunately at the time of this writing I could not find a website for them.
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Inside – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Placemat – Lecce, Italy
The Noodle and Vegetable Soup is very good and can be highly recommended. Other dishes, including the Vegetable Rice Saltate and Cabbage with garlic and oil are also excellent choices.
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Soup with Noodles, Cabbage and Scallions – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Noodle Soup and Vegetable Fried Rice with Shrimp – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Soup with Noodles, Cabbage and Scallions, Vegetable Fried Rice – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Pollo Piccante – Chopped Chicken with Red Pepper, Ginger, Onion and Black Pepper – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Chinese Cabbage in Garlic and Oil – Lecce, Italy
For our second time around we ordered the same soup and rice but changed our main dishes to Eggplant with Chopped Meat and Scallions, and Sweet and Sour Pork with Green Peppers.
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Eggplant, Chopped Meat and Scallions – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Sweet and Sour Port with Green Peppers, Pineapple in Duck Sauce, White Rice and Fried Rice with Vegetables – Lecce, Italy
Anyone who has ever had an interest in trains, or perhaps would just enjoy a trip down memory lane, the Museo Ferroviario dell Puglia might be the place to stop on a lazy day during vacation or the weekend.
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia
Located in Lecce is the Museo Ferroviario della Puglia, or the Train Museum of Puglia. The museum has an extensive collection of period photographs, models and dioramas which reconstruct the evolution of the carriage compartment and other railroad memorabilia from 1937 onwards. From the first nineteenth century carriages with their steam locomotives, which were very similar to the old stagecoaches, the visitor enjoys a tour through railroad history. With displays on the Trans European Express (TEE), there are not only Italian examples of carriages, locomotives and communication history, but also examples from other European countries. There is also a brief display on the development of public railroads in America, before they were forced to their demise by politicians beholding to the automobile and oil industries, never to recover. The entrance fee is 5€ per person and worth every Euro. It took a little over an hour to complete the tour, stopping for photographs and reading many of the displays.
Warning: The opening and closing times for this museum may vary, so check to make sure you have plenty of time to get there before you try to go. The staff close the doors a little under an hour before the posted closing time and will not entertain any new visitors, so get there early or well within the closing time posted, or you will be turned away!
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Tickets For Two – Lecce, Italy
The Building And Sheds
The building where the museum is housed were former workshops of the Squadra Rialzo, or State Railways. These were in full operation until 1992 when their functions were transferred to newer facilities in Surbo Scalo.
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Entrance Accolades – Lecce, Italy
In the workshop, customary maintenance was performed on all carriages, locomotives and freight wagons at the time. Its name is derived from the fact that maintenance for the rolling stocks of the trains were actually carried out here for all axles, wheels, in addition to the carriage bodies and their contents. The current facility consists of two sheds, the first erected in the 1930s, the second with the trusses was built later, sometime in the 1970s. Both were used for numerous purposes, including offices, warehouse stocks, carpentry, forge, upholstery and heating systems. The yard had accommodation to raise wheel sets with a hoist, so that they may be reconditioned and maintained.
The Story
There is a long exhibit that details the history promised in the introduction. Taking you through the stages of evolution of the twentieth century train system in Italy. There are numerous boards to read, posters and model carriages to see along the first stage of the exhibits.
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Tour – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Tour – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Tour – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Carriage 1937 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Posters – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Postal Service – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Italian Signs – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Cars from 1901-1940 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Models – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Models – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Models – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Models – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – American Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – American Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – English Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – English Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Models – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – German Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – German Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – German Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Swiss Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Tour – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – French Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Mitropa Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Southern Italian Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Southern Italian Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Southern Italian Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Southern Italian Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Southern Italian Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – French Lines – Lecce, Italy
The Carriages, Locomotives and other Railcars
There are life size exhibits of some of the carriages, freight cars, locomotives and other vehicles, some of which you can actually enter.
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Water Pump for Steam Engines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Follow The Arrows – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Tour – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Bagagliaio/Riscaldatore FS VDrz 809.251 Heated Carriage – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Conductor Station – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Conductor Station – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Hot Water Heater for the VDr 917 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Exterior of Old Carriages – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Toilets – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Exterior of Old Carriages – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Mail or Post and Cargo Room – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Second Class – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Southeast Line – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Carriage Connections – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Second Class – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Cargo and Freight – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Exterior of Carriage, Carrozza Passeggeri FSE CTcr 454 Milan – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Exterior of Carriage Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Exterior of Carriage, Carrozza Passeggeri FSE C 151 – Lecce, Italy – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Anonima Ferrovie Salentine (AFS) Carri Merci Aperti FSE L 4000 + P 6221 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Exterior of Bagagliaio/Postale FSE DU 950 e DU 951 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Vessel for Wine, the Carri Merci Chiuso e Cisterna FSE Ma 5000 + F 1402 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Diesel Engine – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Machine – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Steam Engine, Locomotiva a Vapore FSE N. 316 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Steam Engine, Locomotiva a Vapore FSE N. 316 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Spring, Machine and Baggage – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Steam Engine, Locomotiva a Vapore FS Gr.905.043 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Steam Engine, Locomotiva a Vapore FS Gr.835.244 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Steam Engine, Locomotiva a Vapore FS Gr.835.244 Boiler – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Electric Engine, Locomotore Diesel-Elettrico FSE BB 159 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Electric Engine, Locomotore Diesel-Elettrico FS E626.033 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Electric Engine, Locomotore Diesel-Elettrico FS E626.033 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Engine, Automotore FS 216.0042 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Engine, Locomotore Diesel-Ellettrico FSE BB 169 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Engine, Locomotori Ellettrici FS E.323.105 + E.324.105 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Engine, Automotore FS 207.023 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Freight Yard Engine – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Steam Engine, Locomotiva a Vapore FS Gr.835.244 Boiler and Controls – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Engine, Automotore FS 207.023 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Engine, Automotore FS 207.023 Controls – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Steam Engine, Locomotiva a Vapore FS Gr.835.244 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Locomotore Elettrico FS E 444.069 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Il “Treno dell’Acqua” FS Dm 98.891 + M 950150 + M 550842 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Il “Treno dell’Acqua” FS Dm 98.891 + M 950150 + M 550842 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Il “Treno dell’Acqua” FS Dm 98.891 + M 950150 + M 550842 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Il “Treno dell’Acqua” FS Dm 98.891 + M 950150 + M 550842 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Carrozze Passeggeri FSE ABz 758 + Bz 614 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Carrozze Passeggeri FSE ABz 758 + Bz 614 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Carrozze Passeggeri FSE ABz 758 + Bz 614 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Carrozze Cellulare FS Kz 48.622 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Carrozze Passeggeri FSE ABz 758 + Bz 614 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Carrozze Cellulare FS Kz 48.622 – Lecce, Italy
Dioramas and other Models
In the later stages of the exhibits, there are numerous large train models, electrified train sets and other dioramas to enjoy. The scale of some of the train sets is impressive and one can immerse oneself in their activity for quite some time.
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Models – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – German Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Models – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Diorama – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Diorama – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Diorama – Lecce, Italy
Railroad Communications, Equipment and Forgery
There is a fairly large display on railroad communications from the mid to later twentieth century. Multiple versions of telephony equipment, switch control rooms and even maintenance shops with an old forge.
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Models – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Devices Used In The Yard – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Devices Used In The Yard – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Devices Used In The Yard – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Devices Used In The Yard – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Devices Used In The Yard – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Devices Used In The Yard – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Devices Used In The Yard – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Signals, Switches and Signs – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Erick enjoying the displays – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Erick posing in his uniform – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Communication Equipement – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Communication Equipement – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Diorama – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Blacksmith tools – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Machine Lathe – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Drill Press – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Giant Machine Lathe For Resurfacing Wheels And Other Rail Equipment – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Electric Devices, Radios and Communications – Lecce, Italy
The Museo Ferroviario della Puglia, or Railway Museum of Puglia, is located on Via G. Codacci Pisanelli 3 in Lecce. From the entrance of the castle, it is probably a twenty-five to thirty minute walk along Viale Francesco Lo Re under the railroad underpass and to the right; it is located behind the existing train station of Lecce.
