Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany – Bächle Everywhere

The one unique feature this city has over others that we have visited are its Bächle, or small streams or runnels that network themselves through most city streets. Though in the past they were used for waste disposal and fire suppression, their contemporary revision is much cleaner and used more for fun than anything functional.

Freiburg im Breisgau

The city lays on the lower west side of the Schwarzwald, or the Black Forest. It is an odd mixture of contemporary and renovated old buildings, but appears to be very liveable. They have an active tram system and local buses, though the residents do appear to enjoy walking for the most part.

Getting There

It is almost necessary to use the A5 to reach the city, though I imagine there might be other ways as well. We entered from the north, via Europaplatz, where we found adequate parking nearby. Europaplatz offers access to the tram system and might be a good starting point for those not wishing to walk.

The Bächle

The Bächle[1]the term is Bächlein in german are on most streets, at least in the older parts of the city. As a child, if you’ve ever had the occasion to play in a small stream or ditch, then you would just love Freiburg im Breisgau. They sure delight the city children. The city appears to be very child friendly and they even sell little boats on a string for children to play with in the Bächle.

Schwabentor

The Schwabentor, or Swabian Gate, is the most recent gate to the city and is located on Herrenstraße, another street which has a Bächle.

Freiburger Münster

The first bricks for the large gothik style Freiburger Münster, or Münster Unserer Lieben Frau, were laid around 1146. After several incantations as a small unassuming church through 1260, the church was redesigned with new importance in the late 1200s. It wasn’t until the late 1400s that it attained is final form one can see today.

Münsterplatz And Merchant’s Hall

The Münsterplatz is adjacent to the cathedral and includes several city buildings and businesses.

One historic building that stands out in Münsterplatz is the Historisches Kaufhaus, or Merchant’s Hall. With its striking red exterior it is impossible to miss and the result of contemporary renovations, having suffered bomb damage and other design changes throughout the years. The facade today is adorned with replicas of Holy Roman Emperors and an Archduke, who did not become emperor because he died before his father and didn’t inherit all of his father’s titles.

Augustinerplatz

Though not much to look at the Augustinerplatz is where the museum and several other important government buildings are located, including for us ironically, the Italian Consulate.

Connecting Augustinerplatz to Kaiser-Josephstraße is Gerberau street.

Martinstor

A major gate in the city, aside from the swabian gate, or Scwabentor, is Martinstor. Located on Kaiser-Josephstraße, more or less in the center of town, the tower stands above all the other buildings. The street runs directly through the tower, like in many other walled cities in Germany and delineates the old city from its newer parts.

Restaurants

For our day trip we chose to have chinese or japanese and found a nice modern place that opened in the remains of the old Laubfrosch restaurant.

Unkai

If you are looking for either chinese or japanese cuisine look no further than Unkai Asian Fusion.

The decor inside is decidedly modern and the staff is very attentive to your needs, especially if that has to do with children.

References

References
1 the term is Bächlein in german

Eguisheim, France – Medieval Zwiebelstadt

A stone’s throw from Colmar is the small Zwiebelstadt of Eguisheim[1]In German it is spelled Egisheim, France. Here you will enjoy what a small medieval Alsatian town feels like.

Equisheim

The germans use the term Zwiebelstadt to denote any small medieval town that is formed like an onion. Though typically they have eight sides with concentric alleys bisected by a Grand Rue, or main street, they may be circular or oval as well. In the center of it all you will usually find a church or main plaza.

In the above the following are noteworthy, according to town officials, starting at (D) with the Pigeon Loft.

      1. Rue de Ramport – The colors of Eguisheim
      2. Rue de Ramport – Round and round the town
      3. The gates of the town
      4. The town’s inscriptions
      5. Stone engravings
      6. The chateau
      7. The host of the chapel
      8. The virgins of Eguisheim (the church)
      9. The tithe courtyards

The area around the town is noted for its excellent alsatian wines. Upon entering the town visitors can see a record of the vineyards proudly displayed along with restaurants and a map of the town.

Getting There

From Colmar a quick drive down the Rue de Tiefenbach or the Route de Rouffach puts you on the D83 for a short time before you reach one of the many small roads that will take you into town, though typically it would be the Rue de la 1er Armée.

Grand Rue

Cutting through the center of town is the Grand Rue, or main street. Here is where you will find most all of the shops and many of the wineries.

The tourism office is close by the Eguisheim Fountain, so once you locate that, it’s just a stone’s throw away.

Rue de Rempart

We spent most of our time walking this alley, which circumnavigates the town. Since the town is laid out like an onion, you will eventually come back to where you started.

The Rue de Rempart creates two rows of buildings that acted like fortifications for the town. Since the town was not initially meant to be a fortress, but was more economical in nature, the outside wall turned into another row of houses some time in the sixteenth century.

Many buildings in the town are also adorned with coats-of-arms. Many of the pediments and lintels are decorated with them and other engravings, usually left by the stone masons themselves. In most cases the coat-of-arms indicated who lived in the house according to their profession, a butcher’s block for a butcher for example. However, a sword crossing a shield would indicate a master craftsman in that profession.

Chapelle Saint-Léon IX

Along with the chateau that is close by, the Chapel of Saint Leon IX is a central sight. The fountain of Saint Leon is directly below the stairs to the chapel.

Église Saints-Pierre-et-Paul

Off on another street is the Church of Saints Peter and Paul. Though larger than the chapel, the outside and inside are more austere.

Other Sights

If you walk enough you will find an old American Willeys Jeep left over from the war. There are also several other wineries of the main streets as well.

Though we only spent a few hours here, we thoroughly enjoyed it, especially since the weather was very nice. It might make more sense though, to stay a bit longer and enjoy a wine tour throught he vineyards and one or two wine tastings. In any event, it is a great place to stop and is highly recommended.

Restaurants

Unfortunately, we cannot commend a place to eat or drink, since we did neither in Eguisheim. A wine tasting might be commended though, since it is at the center of Alsatian wine country!

References

References
1 In German it is spelled Egisheim

Colmar, France – Timber And Sandstone

Anyone walking through the idealic and picturesque city of Colmar, France will notice the abundance of timber and sandstone used in it’s buildings. From simple timber framed houses, to large churches built almost entirely of sandstone.

Colmar

The city of Colmar has benefited from both French and German influences, especially with it’s architecture. This is what makes it such an interesting place to visit. Not only have many of the structures survived the many wars between the two countries, the population has seemed to have taken care of them down through the centuries.

Getting There

From Frankfurt you can the A5, which I believe is only designated a 5 now. We took it and then cut over to France at Strasbourg and took the A35 down. If you take that route you get to enjoy the Statue of Liberty.

Timber Houses

The city is repleat with Fachwerkhäuser, or timber houses. Many dating back many centuries and showing their age.

It is essential to visit the Grand Rue, which is the main shopping street of the city. Here you can shop and dine and explore the many facets of Colmar.

The Rue Vauban is also an important thoroughfare to visit and is itself decorated with many of the timber houses that adorn other parts of the city.

Another must-see street is the Rue de Tetes. Here you can find the Maison des Tetes which was built in 1609 by Anton Burger, who later became the mayor of the city. The building owes its name to the many masks and grimacing faces that adorn its exterior. The figure on the top of the three-story oriel is of the twentieth century barrel-maker Auguste Bartholdi, at which time the building was used as a wine exchange.

La Petite Venise

They call it the small Venice, but not really, it’s just one canal and it only goes about one block. It is a very pretty area and is worth a stop if you are in the area.

There is a gondala ride you can take, if you cannot enjoy the real thing.

Collégiale Saint-Martin

The Collégiale Saint-Martin is a church that is run by a secular group of clergy, that are responsible for the church’s administration as well as several aspects of the attached college. There were at least two churches on the same site, dating back to the eleventh century. The current church grew out of a set of buildings that started the early thirteenth century.

The interior is spacious and maintains a typical cathedral design, with an apse, altar and transept. Over the entrance is located a very large organ, which is accessed by a spiral staircase located in one of the corners.

Restaurants

Colmar has numerous restaurants and cafes catering to most tastes. However, we would recommend trying the alsatian food, an interesting mixture of french and german cuisine.

Le Fer Rouge

Le Fer Rouge is a true alsatian restaurant and serves good food. This was our first food stop in Colmar and we thoroughly enjoyed it.

I ordered the Schweinhaxen, or roasted pig shank, and it was delicious. It was marinated in a semi-sweet french sauce that was just outstanding. The Schwarzwälderkirchetorte, or Black Forest Cake, however was not that good. The creme was a bit stiff and the cherries lacked a rich taste, one expects from this dessert; a true dissappointment.

Brasserie Chez Hansi

The Brasserie Chez Hansi is another alsatian restaurant with a simple atmosphere.

The menu is easy to intepret and there appears to be something for everyone’s taste. I would commend however the Sauerkraut and Würste platter, it was excellent.

Le Bistrot des Copains

Last, and definitely least, is the Le Bistrot des Copains. It has a very average rating and you will find it is well deserved. The food is okay, nothing to write home about for sure. The service is adequate and they do try to help you with any requests. This restaurant would fall into the tourist trap category, if such a thing exists. It is well attended, but it perplexes me why.

Seligenstadt, Germany – Ancient Castral

Built around the ancient remains of an old Roman Castrum, Seligenstadt is one of Germany’s oldest towns. The Romans established a fortified encampment around the second century and maintained it for over a hundred and fifty years. Some time in the mid third century the germanic tribes repeatedly attacked the castrum, forcing the Romans to withdraw across the Rhine river, leaving a pile of rubble behind. Some time afterwards it was known as Obermühlheim and some of the earliest buildings in Seligenstadt are dated to the seventh century and are still standing.

A stone’s throw from one of the public parking places is the Wendelinuskapelle. A small chapel honoring Saint Wendel, patron saint of farmers and shepards. Built in the late 1800s it stands on the place of a former Heiligenhäuschen. The Baroque doorway is some 160 years older than the chapel itself and was taken from the west portal of the Seligenstadt Basilica, when it was renovated in 1868. The inside is rather plain and in need of some repair.

Seligenstadt

The three main attractions in this town are the Benedictine Monastery, the Einhard-Basilika and the town’s Marktplatz, or marketplace. One can also find along the Große Maingasse a ferry crossing that crosses the Main river, which separates Hesse from Bavaria.

For the most part the town appears to have been saved from the ravages of war. Many of the original timber houses still stand and many have historical markers on them, giving the passer-by a brief history of the structure before them.

Benedictine Monastery

The monastery, which was established by the Benedictines in 815, houses a museum now and a beautifully maintained garden overlooking the Main river.

Einhard-Basilika

Though started in the early ninth century as the Saint Marcellinus and Petrus church, it is currently known as the basilica of Einhard, who was one of Charlemagne’s closest friends and advisors. The facade of the church is neo-roman, though there are several other styles of note, including early gothic.

Marktplatz

While we were visiting, a political infomation event was being held in the marketplace, which includes the Rathaus. The area is surrounded by quaint little shops, cafes and government buildings.

Restaurants

The weather was cold, cloudy and wet, typical for this time of year. So, when it was time it was essential to find a warm place with good food, so Italian with a pizza oven sounded about right.

Ristorante & Pizzeria 1744

A modern restaurant with a surprisingly large staff was able to accomodate us for lunch. I would expect that during busier times, reservations might be recommended.

The food was excellent. We tried the soups and main pasta dishes, which most people around us seem to favor; so we cannot really speak about the quality of the pizza. They also have traditional italian coffee and other after dinner amenities.

Luzern, Switzerland – Day Trip

Luzern For A Day

The last time we were in Luzern was in 2020. We came back at the behest of other family members who wanted to visit it for a day and to also check out the wonderful hands-on transportation museum. We therefore made a Tagesausflug, or day trip, from Zürich to Luzern just to see the museum.

Getting There

From Zürich HBf, we took the regional train IR70, which only takes about forty minutes to Luzern. With the half fare card, it only cost us 13.50 Francs round-trip, per person. Luzern train station is right by the confluence of the lake and the river, so it drops you right in the heart of town.

Luzern The City

Luzern, or Lucerne depending upon your preferred spelling, is a beautiful little city on the banks of the Vierwaldstättersee, or Lake Lucerne. It is bisected by the Reuss River, which in earlier times not only had several mills along it, it was also used to generate electricity for the city when one of the old mills was converted to a hydro-power station.

The Bridges

The most interest sight in the city are its bridges. The Kapellbrücke, or Chapel Bridge, was originally a fortification, but is now a tourist attraction that almost burnt down in 1993. The paintings that adorn it, and it sister bridge the Spreuerbrücke, are still being restored after the fire and years of neglect.

Museum Of Transportation

The Verkehrshaus der Schweiz, the Swiss Museum of Transport, is a hands-on museum for people of all ages, but mainly geared toward school children. Even for adults, there are some very interesting and historical items to see, let alone a good record of Switzerland’s contribution in the area of transportation.

The museum is divided into themes, from planes, to trains and automobiles, they even have a brief but interesting exhibit on bicycles and their history in Switzerland.

Restaurants

We visited on Sunday, so our restaurant choices were rather limited. Sunday in most of Europe is the day of the week that families go out to eat and many normally have reservations for a late day lunch. Most of the establishments along the Rathausquai, Reusssteg and Bahnhofstrasse were busy, but off the beaten path we managed to find something.

Restaurant Fritschi

Tucked away and located Sternenplatz is the Restaurant Fritschi. It offers mostly swiss cuisine, but there are some simpler dishes, if you are not too hungry or prefer not to eat a heavy lunch.

Santa Lucia Ristorante

When we returned to Zürich, we ate at Santa Lucia Ristorante. This restaurant can get very busy, so it is probably a good idea to have reservations. They do however have a downstairs, which is where we were seated; there you can actually witness them making your pizza. They have many other specialities on the menu, so finding something delicious to try should not be a problem.

Vevey, Switzerland – Chaplin’s Repose

Retirement Repose Along The Lake Riviera

Charlie Chaplin called this town his retirement home for the remaining twenty-five years of his life and it is commemorated with a number of statues to that affect. It enjoys that same lazy coastline lifestyle that its sister Clarens to the east enjoys. There are definitely less crowds here than you will find in Montreux. It is also considered the headquarters of Nestlé and where chocolate was first created for the mass market.

Getting There

A three mile walk northwest of the town of Clarens is the town of Vevey, Switzerland where you can relax and enjoy a slightly different view of the lake. On a beautiful morning this would be the way to go, with the exception of about a mile where the path turns inward and you must walk more along the road than the lake. However, one can also take a bus, train or ferry to reach this town.

For our return we took the CGN Ferry back to Clarens. While I would normally say it was a relaxing trip back, we had our grandson with us who was overdue for a nap, so we enjoyed a terrible-two meltdown instead!

Vevey The Town

The old town is a one or two block wide stretch along the lake’s coastline. Though there are still a few old Roman bridges that span the small creek that cuts through the town, there seems to be no evidence of the old fortifications that used to protect it.

In the central part of town, the Saint Jean clock tower stands sentinel and offers a fountain as refreshment below it.

There are numerous shops here and on the right day, the central square or Place du Marché, holds a marketplace where a whole host of goods are sold. Therefore you may not be able to rely on this as a parking lot and if driving look elsewhere.

The Jardin Doret or park, has public amenities, as well as a nice playground for small children who need to take a rest from all of the adult walking we like to do on vacation; so for some, a must stop.

Montreux, Switzerland – Lake Stroll

Lake Leman Stroll

From our hotel the Quai de Clarens extends to the left and right. Taking a left while leaving, it turns into the Quai de Vernex within a short time and then it has many other monikers. For an early morning September stroll it is a very picturesque and beautiful walk along the lake, being well maintained by the authorities.

Eventually, as you pass the towns of Montreux and Veytaux, it will turn into the Quai Alfred Chatelanat. It is here you will see the Castle or Chateau de Chillon.

Getting There

To get to Castle Chillon there are many options. One preferrable one, since the walk along the Quai is fairly long, at least a couple of miles, is taking the boat. It docks at several places and has a rather spotty schedule, so check the authorities and the schedule at your location prior to depending upon it. It does however dock just below the castle and had arrived as we were on our tour of it.

You can also take the bus. This is probably the easiest option and there are numerous bus stops along the way. The 201 from Clarens to Veytaux comes every half hour. We chose this option to return to our hotel. Tickets can be purchases on the SBB mobile application.

Chateau de Chillon

The Castle Chillon was originally built by the Savoy family and has had many different functions since it was first erected. It can be seen in the distance for some time before one notices the gun casement that guards it to the north.

The castle has a number of rooms dedicated to particular themes. Each has a unique story to tell, as well as furnishing that were used in the past by the residents.  The following were taken while touring the inside of the castle.

Iceland, Reykjavik – Windy Weekend

On Sunday, the first of June, we traveled to Reykjavik, Iceland for a stop-over of a couple of days as we started our journey back to the United States. We arrived only to experience a truly deep extra-tropical cyclone that had set itself up off the coast of Iceland and gave us a memorably windy start to our trip back and the end of our weekend.

Getting There

From Turin we took the FrecciaRossa to Milan Central Station and then up to Malpensa Airport by regional train. The two trips combined were a bit over two hours and more or less uneventful, though one could see tourist travel has definitely picked up in recent weeks, so the trains were pretty full.

Having only a few days to experience what we could of this volcanic island, we decided to stay in Reykjavik. A good forty-five minute drive from Keflavik Airport to Reykjavik, you only have two options, by bus or by automobile (honestly I am not sure if there is an ocean option). It does not matter whether you arrange or book a transfer service through something like GetYourGuide, or take a taxi directly from the airport, both costs are pretty much the same. The bus however is a cheaper option at around $30 per passenger, but does leave you generally on the southern outskirts of town, so you will either have to walk from there or hire a taxi to get to your hotel.

Reykjavik – The City

The city reminded me of a long lost outpost that has been built up over the decades. Even the airports are pieced together from left over vestiges of American activities during World War II. The house are generally clad in corrugated galvanized sheets typically used for roofing material. Many are painted in bright colors to enhance their roadside appeal.

Our Hotel

We stayed at the Sand Hotel in town, a Keahotel, of which there are a few in Reykjavik. We found it comfortable and central for our needs. A continental breakfast was included each morning, which we found to be actually a bit more than a mere continental breakfast and more than adequate for our needs. However, if you do not have a hotel with included breakfast, don’t worry, there are plenty of cafes, pastry and waffel shops around to grab a bite to eat in the morning.

Saebraut And The Sun Voyager

Even though the weather did not cooperate much, we learned it rarely does in Iceland, a nice stroll along the Saebraut is a must. There is both a walkway and cycling lane that runs the length of the bay in Reykjavik. Here you will find the Sun Voyager, a stainless-steel sculpture by Jón Gunnar Árnason, that mimics a old Viking sailing boat.

Skolavorduholt

A short walk up Rainbow Street and the highest hill in Reykjavik is the Skolavorduholt, the place where you will find the Hallgrimskirkja Lutheran Church and the monument to Lief Eriksson.

Hallgrimskirkja Church

The church is impressive and easily the largest church on the island. It has an impressive apse and organ and an almost clean, if not antiseptic appearance inside. The pews are built so that can be easily switched, so you can either face the altar for services, or the organ for performances.

Lief Eriksson

The monument of Lief Eriksson which stands directly outside in front of the entrance, gives historical credit to this noble adventurer and discoverer of the North America. The monument was gifted to the island in 1930 by the United States of America.

Austurvöllur and Downtown

The Austurvöllur area is where many of the municiple buildings are located, as well as the Tjörnin, or “The Pond”. This body of water is a favorite for the school children during lunch and you can often find them feeding the ducks which collect along the shore for an easy meal.

Restaurants

The Scandinavian Bistro

Our first evening we ate at the Scandinavian Bistro and thoroughly enjoyed it. Though it does not have a lot of seating inside, it is adequate and does not feel overly crowded. The food was a bit overpriced for what you got, but that’s true of most places in Reykjavik since they import a majority of their foodstuffs.

Rossopomodoro

A continental chain and restaurant serving Italian cuisine can be found on the Laugevegur. A restaurant that is in many European cities and provides basic italian cuisine and pizza at fair prices. We ate here one evening due to its proximity to our hotel and because it was Italian food.

Turin, Italy – La Venaria Reale

Reggia di Venaria Reale was a royal residence and palace to the northwest of Turin, Italy. It was one of more that a dozen residences of the Savoy family. It was abondoned after the Napoleonic Wars and later became a military post and barracks and subsequently slowly fell into disrepair and abandonment. After a major restoration, it finally opened to the public in 2007 as a musuem and tourist attraction.

Getting There

The easiest was to get there from Turin is to take one of the SFM trains from Porta Susa towards the Turin Airport. Many of these trains stop at Venaria Station and it only takes about fifteen to twenty minutes and costs about €3.50 per person. We often use the phone application and do not book a round-trip ticket, since you never know how long you might stay, especially if you are planning for lunch as well.

The Palace

The palace is actually in two pieces, the original Palace of Diana from the seventeenth century in white stucco with a white clock tower and the latter eighteenth century addition in raw brick with the Belvedere Tower, where you enter.

The Grand Gallery

Probably the most striking room and the pinnacle of the visit, the Grand Gallery is part of the Palace of Diana and a core piece of the original palace.

Turin At The Turn Of The Century

There is a nice collection of maps, dioramas and other works depicting Turin at the turn of the seventeenth century. Interesting from the perspective of present day Turin and what was lacking back in the day of the House of Savoy.

The Rooms Of Art

There is also a fine exhibit of art at the palace. Located through the entrance to the gardens, the entrance is in the back of the Palace of Diana.

The Stables

Juvarra Stables

The Juvarra Stables contain a collection of the royal family’s modes of transportation, from a river gondolla, to the royal coach and other broughams, all the way to childrens toy coach.

The wall is surrounded by a historical account of a trip up the River Po using the gondola from Venice to Turin.

Alfieri Stables

Today these just appear as a hallway depicting the transition from a palace in ruin to full restoration. Some of the photographs in the collection are strinking and it is well worth thoughful look and some consideration.

The Gardens

The gardens here include several, the most conspicuous one is the Flower Garden. But there is also several orchards and three distinct terraces that one can walk through and enjoy the well manicured estate.

Church of Saint Hubert

One has to walk to the Church of Saint Hubert from within the complex near the stables, outside entry is not possible. All of the pews have been removed, only the artwork, frescoes and a high altar remain, everything else is gone.

Restaurants

Il Convito della Venaria

Just on the corners of the Piazza della Repubblica and Via Andrea Mensa is the ristorante Il Convito della Venaria. A fine place for lunch, though probably a bit pricier than some of the alternatives, though restaurants and cafes appear to get sparser and sparser as you walk back towards the train station, so word of warning. We had a simple lunch of Bruschetta and two different pasta dishes, Patti had Maccheroncino al Tochio with Eggplant, Zucchini and Olives in a red sauce and I had the Agnolottini del Plin Piemontese Style, both were delicious.

Bern, Switzerland – Medieval Town on the Aare

Bern was originally settled by Swabians[1]The Zähringen noble family from around Freiburg im Breisgau in the twelfth century and quickly died out within a century. from the lower parts of Germany, it is the fifth largest in Switzerland and was initially surrounded by the Aare river on three sides, with fortifications protecting it’s west side.

Getting There

Bern does not have a commercial airport, so you will either have use Zürich‘s or Geneva’s and then take a train. We had already started in Geneva, so taking one of the ICE trains from Geneva to Bern was automatic. However, in typical SBB[2]Schweizerische BundesBahnen or Swiss train fashion, it was halted before leaving the Lake Léman area and we had to find another train to continue our two hour journey, which then turned into a three hour trip[3]There have been few times when traveling by train in Switzerland was a normal affair. It is getting to be more like the Deutscher Bahn.

The City

The old medieval city of Bern is rather compact, due to it being confined by the Aare river. The main train station is on the west side of the city, so it is probably best to find a hotel close to it. We stayed at the Hotel Savoy, three blocks away from the train station.

Walking from the train station to the Nydeggbrücke, via the Marktgasse of Kramgasse, should not take more than a twenty-five to thirty minutes without stopping. The main shopping avenue is the Marktgasse, which is lined with many watch stores and most other modern shops you expect to see in city that is heavily traveled. See the restaurant section below for where to go for food.

Brunnen Or Fountains

The city has a lot of brunnen, or fountains in English, especially down the middle of the Marktgasse. Most of these have figures or other mythical forms, stylized perhaps from some historical figure.

There is also the Lischetti-Brunnen, also known as the Postgassbrunnen or Upper Postgassbrunnen, which was erected in 1820 next to the Staatskanzelei (State Chancellery) and is to be used by anyone who wishes to experience being a fountain.

Hotel Savoy

A fairly good hotel on the Kramgasse, sharing an entrance with another store. We found it reasonably priced for a Swiss hotel and central for visiting the city. The breakfast is rather expensive, as it is in most Swiss hotels, at 30CHF per person. We found this unreasonable and ventured out each morning to stop at one of the many Konditoreien, or pastry shops, in the neighborhood. This option ran around 9-10CHF per person, but was only coffee and a pastry, which for use was sufficient.

Cathedrals And Churches

A few religious buildings of note in Bern are the Cathedral of Bern and the Church of Saint Peter and Paul.

Cathedral Of Bern

Church Of Saint Peter And Paul

Bridges And The Aare River

There are two central bridges that span the Aare at the tip of the city. The Untertorbrücke, the first one to be built and is shown on maps of the city from the seventeenth century, and the Nydeggbrücke, which carries the tram and modern vehicular traffic.

Bären Park

On one end of the Nydeggbrücke is the Bärenpark, or Bear Park. As early as the beginning of the sixteenth century the city has been known to have a Bärengraben, or Bear Pit, of some type or another. Ostensibly the city becoming eponymously named for the same in 1191 when the Duke of Zähringen killed a bear first on one of his many famous hunts. But seriously, this is just conjecture and there is more evidence that it was from a pre-existing toponym of Celtic origin, possibly berna, meaning cleft.

Einsteinhaus

On Marktgasse 49, visitors will find the Einsteinhaus, or the apartment that Albert Einstein lived in during his publication of his ground breaking theories of 1905, including his Special Theory of Relativity.

The Rosengarden Bern

One top of the hill on the other side of the Aare river is the park containing the Rose Garden, or Rosengarden. Unfortunately for us, the roses were not in bloom in May, so we were unable to enjoy their colors. However, there were other flowers, trees and bushes to be enjoyed in the park.

It is here, that Albert Einstein probably contemplated many of the problems around his Theory of Relativity, and a bench here so commemorates his efforts.

From this vantage point you get a very good view of the old Medieval city of Bern, with its many churches, bridges and old style houses.

Restaurants

The Bärenplatz and Waisenhausplatz are central areas for restaurants and have a good mix of local Swiss restaurants to Italian and other cuisines.

Santa Lucia Ristorante

Another Italian restaurant which has a very active lunch crowd. Here you can enjoy reasonable prices and a wide selection of Italian dishes, including pizza. Our first evening here we enjoyed the soup and spaghetti.

The second time we visited was for lunch, then I ordered a pizza, which was very good and typical of the Neapolitan style from Naples. The house wine is also very pleasant.

Ristorante Luce

On the corner of Zeughausgasse and Waghausegasse is the Italian restaurant of Ristorante Luce. If you are looking for higher end Italian food, look no further. The service here is also exceptional, though the seating was a bit cramped.

Here they serve very good Italian specialties and have an excellent wine list. Here you can find Strozzapreti, or Priest Strangler/Choker Pasta with Mozzarella. A rather large and somewhat gummy pasta with an very interesting history.

I can specifically attest to spending 150CHF for a 375ml bottle of Ornellaia 2019. A DOC wine from Italy with extremely high ratings which regularly fetches $250-$800 a bottle, a truly amazing wine. So if you are a true wine lover, your pallet might enjoy this restaurant.

References

References
1 The Zähringen noble family from around Freiburg im Breisgau in the twelfth century and quickly died out within a century.
2 Schweizerische BundesBahnen
3 There have been few times when traveling by train in Switzerland was a normal affair. It is getting to be more like the Deutscher Bahn