If you are an archaeological nut and ever have enough time to spend in Naples, you must visit the National Archaeological Museum. It houses an impressive collection from ancient Naples, from its ancient Greek roots through its Roman and Sicilian Empire phases, to the present. It also has a fabulous collection of artifacts from Pompeii and the Roman Period. It is found on the interesection of Piazza Cavour and Via Enrico Pessina. At the time of this writing, it can no longer be gotten to by the Museum Metro Stop, which has been closed for some time, but rather from the Piazza Cavour Metro Stop and then a short walk along that street.
National Archaeological Museum – Main Entrance
The Ground or First Floor – Main Gallery
The main gallery on the ground floor has a unique and amazing collection of statues, mostly from the Roman Period, but there are also more ancient sculptures as well. It features in the back of the hall the Farnese Bull from Roman times.
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Bull – Farnese Collection – Largest Sculpture from Antiquity
There are also a few other examples from the Farnese Collection, including Hercules and others. This section is definitely worth a quiet, long walk through with plenty of reading and afterthought. Examination of any one of these magnificent works reveal detail that someone in today’s day and age would think otherwise superfluous, and yet it would not be the work it is today without that fine attention to detail.
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Architectural Elements
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Large Statues – Roman
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Women Busts
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Hercules – Farnese Collection
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Dionysus and Eros
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Mermaid
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Busts of Leaders
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Relief
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Trapezium Table Support – Villa Madama – Homeric myth of Scylla gripping Ulysses’s sailors
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Relief
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Sarcophagus
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Large Statues
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Large Statues
Leaving the main gallery and proceeding upstairs you pass the two dominant representations of Ocean or Oceanus, the god the ultimate river – the oceans. It is still not none precisely the etymology of this word and therefore it may not have any antecendents. However, one look at these two figures and you can tell that whomever this god represented, he was a very serious fellow, he had to be the dominate force for all water.
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Large Statue of Ocean holding a cornucopia – Entrance to Upstairs
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Entrance to Upstairs
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Large Statue of Ocean holding an Oar and a Sea Dragon – Entrance to Upstairs
The First Floor – The Mosaic Gallery
Here one can find all sorts of ancient mosaics, however most are from Pompeii. Made of paste and ceramic all are equisitely done in the form of a story to tell the onlooker.
National Archaeological Museum – Mosaic Hall – Leopard
National Archaeological Museum – Mosaic Hall – Mosaics made with Glass and Paste
National Archaeological Museum – Mosaic Hall – Mosaics made with Glass and Paste
National Archaeological Museum – Mosaic Hall – Numerous Household Examples
National Archaeological Museum – Mosaic Hall
National Archaeological Museum – Mosaic Hall – Mosaics made with Glass and Paste
National Archaeological Museum – Mosaic Hall – Mosaics made with Glass and Paste
National Archaeological Museum – Mosaic Hall – From Houses
National Archaeological Museum – Mosaic Hall
National Archaeological Museum – Mosaic Hall
The Third Floor – The Glass Gallery
Has a small, succinct, but very important collection of ancient glass made during the Pompeiien and Roman periods. Some have handwork and detail that cannot be rivaled today.
National Archaeological Museum – Glass Gallery
National Archaeological Museum – Glass Gallery
The Gallery of Pompeiien Erotica
No visit would be complete without a visit to the erotic gallery, where all manner of erotica are on display from the dead city of Pompeii. The Quakers and the Puritans would have had a field day in this city at its peak. Not only was prostitution flaunted as an everday fact in everyone’s face, but the public had personal art created for display and enjoyment in their own houses. Without much else to say the following is shown as a slideshow, feel free to opt-out if you are not up to the intellectual and spiritual challenge.
National Archaeological Museum – Erotic Art
National Archaeological Museum – Erotic Art
National Archaeological Museum – Erotic Mythological Paintings
National Archaeological Museum – Erotic Art – Household Items From Pompeii
National Archaeological Museum – Erotic Art – House Doorbells From Pompeii
National Archaeological Museum – Erotic Art – Household Items From Pompeii
National Archaeological Museum – Erotic Art – Household Items From Pompeii
National Archaeological Museum – Erotic Art – Dish and Small Bronze
The Basement Floor – The Maritime Archaeological Gallery
All things maritime are located in the basement floor. A wide collection of maritime artifacts and archaeological specific display can be found in this section. There are also displays from the escavations of Pompeii having to do with the city itself, including is ancient public plumbing.
National Archaeological Museum – Maritime Hall – Old Signs
National Archaeological Museum – Maritime Hall – Ancient Trading Ports and Important Cities
National Archaeological Museum – Maritime Hall – Archaeological Map of Parthenope
National Archaeological Museum – Maritime Hall – Large Anchor
National Archaeological Museum – Maritime Hall – Old Lead Pipe
National Archaeological Museum – Maritime Hall – Reproduction of an Ancient Bark from Campania
Restaurants
Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria
A short fifteen minute walk away from the museum, down the Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli, Via San Sebastiano and Via Santa Chiara (all the same street mind you), you will find Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria. Another exceptional place with homemade creations to tempt most palettes. We entered this restaurant just before it started raining and were not disappointed, a fine place to visit with nice staff that is definitely NOT a tourist trap.
Naples, San Guiseppe – Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria – Inside
Naples, San Guiseppe – Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria – Inside
Naples, San Guiseppe – Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria – Fried Eggplant in a tomato reduction with pesto
Naples, San Guiseppe – Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria – Lacryma Red
Naples, San Guiseppe – Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria – Pasta Norman
Naples, San Guiseppe – Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria – Pasta with Peppers and Taralli
Naples, San Guiseppe – Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria – Tart with Pecans
Naples, San Guiseppe – Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria – Chocolate Cake with powdered sugar
In the back of Piazza San Gaetano, alongside the tower, you will find the entry point to a very interesting treat, and a very historically important place for understanding Naples as a city, especially its age. Here you will find the La Neapolis Sotterrate, or the ancient underground marketplace.
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Internal Palazzo with well
The Ancient Neapolis was founded back in the fifth century BCE by the Greeks. Many of the artifacts and architecture of this place date back to this time. The market, or Macellum, was a two story structure that ran along underneath the current structure of the convent which now stands over top of it. Many of the streets in this area start with Vico and not Via, indicating the ancient Greek origins (all streets that start with this have a corresponding ancient road structure beneath them).
The entry fee is minimal and they have guided tours available in English. We found the tour very informative and important in trying to appreciate the age of city of Naples. Here is a slide show with what you will see if you have time to consider this historical adventure.
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Model and Diorama
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Graves unearthed in the palazzo
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Entering Ancient Underground Marketplace
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace – Detail of pyramidal bricks
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace – Main Street or Vico
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Treasury
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace – Laundry
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace – Typical Two Room Store Layout
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace – Ancient Store
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace – Ancient Access Point
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace – Side Cul du Sac
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace – Ancient Bakery
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace – Current Escavations
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace – Old Mosaic Floor
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace – Aqueduct Entry Point
There are a few cloisters in Naples worth visiting, if you have the time and interest. Since it was at the end of our trip and we were lacking time, we chose the Cloister of Santa Chiara to visit, which sits right in the middle of the Historic Center and not far from all of the shopping, which we were interested in doing as well.
Cloister – Tickets For Two
Chiostro di Santa Chiara
The cloister is behind a large church which suffered greatly during the allied bombings of Naples in the 1940s. Apparently the church took most of the damaged and the cloister was left, more of less, intact for us to enjoy today.
Needing to get out of Naples, if only for a day, we took the train south to Salerno in discovery of yet another ancient city along the Italian Mediterranean Sea. A short train ride of only a half an hour puts you there, three blocks in from from its coastal port and jetties that border the bright blue Tyrrhenian Sea.
Waterfront – Salerno, Italy
Waterfront – Salerno, Italy
Waterfront – Salerno, Italy
Waterfront – Salerno, Italy
Waterfront – Salerno, Italy
Waterfront – Salerno, Italy
The City – Salerno, Italy
Piazza Vittorio Veneto – Salerno, Italy
Train Station – Salerno, Italy
Lungomare – Salerno, Italy
We spent a leisurely Monday walking the streets of this nicely kept secret. It is definitely not a tourist destination and you will see few if any here, those preferring Capri, Almalfi Coast and other must-see places on someone else’s list.
Benedictine Aqueducts
The city has one of the most impressive examples of the architecture of the Ogival Arch, which in the ninth century was innovative and rare. It was so uncommon, that superstition around the arches and their use built up over the years, to the point where the town’s people were convinced it was the work of the devil, or at the very least, demons from hell. In any case, the aqueducts were built by and supplied water to the local Benedictine Monastery, and later to a convent in Piantanova.
Benedictine Aqueducts – Salerno, Italy
The Basilica of Salerno is not far from the aqueducts and the Benedictine Monastery. Its most striking feature is the tower, which was built in the Arab-Norman style. The palazzo inside contains a small fountain and its archways are reminiscent of the Florentine style.
Tower – Basilica of Salerno – Salerno, Italy
Basilica of Salerno – Salerno, Italy
Basilica of Salerno – Salerno, Italy
Courtyard and Tower – Basilica of Salerno – Salerno, Italy
Basilica of Salerno – Salerno, Italy
A quintessential thing to do, is to walk along Salerno’s Lungomare Trieste and enjoy the beautiful weather and seaside. This exceptional boardwalk continues straight for about five miles and has numerous places to sit and relax among the beautiful palm trees that were planted there long ago.
Lungomare – Salerno, Italy
Restaurants
Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Perhaps one of the best places I have ever eaten. The Pasta Genovese here is absolutely to die for, I have found none better in Naples and the surrounding area, and I have tried many. The wine list is also very good and you will have no problem selecting a delicious local varietal that grows on the slopes of Vesuvius for your gastronomic pleasure.
Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Inside – Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Patti at Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Erick at Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Insalata Mista – Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Montevetrano, Colli di Salerno, 2008 – Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Pasta Genovese – Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Eggplant in Sauce – Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Suckling Pig, Mashed Potatoes and Beets – Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Hazelnut Semifreddo – Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
The streets of Naples are full of food. There are not only the typical butchers, bakers and even soap makers, but also cafes, ristorantes and all sorts of other odd types of shops (to Americans anyways) selling what I would call contemporary traditional or ancient traditional goods. For example, there is a coffee shop on one street in the historic center that brews coffee using the old, slow drip process – the typical way before World War II (in fact you cannot buy espresso there).
Typical Green Grocer – Naples
Another Grocer – Naples
Fish Monger – Naples
If you are not particular to just meat or seafood, you can also go to the local Tripperia where you may purchase animal organs. In the Market District there are several places to choose from and they sell everything from Tripe, to Stomach and Intestines, to Brains and other blood organs. The Tripe and Stomach display at Fiorenzano’s (like others) was especially interesting, since it had dripping water in the case while the butcher was slicing away at the stomachs and other organs people were ordering.
Fiorenzano’s also has a Friggitoria just down the street, where locals come to purchase quickly fried items that are choosen from the display case. This includes everything from potato fritter like delicacies, to pizza, focaccia and other Neapolitan favorites.
Fiorenzano’s Friggitoria
For one day we had a splendid tour of the historic center of Naples with our tour guide Federica. It was a walking tour of the city center that included strategic stops along the way to sample some of Naples’ street food. Some were easier to carry than others and we found ourselves, at least once, stopping to sit at a table to handle some of the more larger entrees we were offered.
Cherry Tomatos and Mozzarella in a cup
In the historic streets of Naples you can walk the streets and find a store with a very common sign stating, “O’Sicchietiell e Muzzarell” in the Neapolitan language. Which is probably not far from the Italian for Ciliegini (shortened version of pomodoro ciliegini), or Cherry Tomatoes and Mozzarella. You may purchase a large or small cup, it comes with a small wooden fork, basilico and extra virgin olive oil and you can just eat them as you walk around.
Sorbillo’s Pizza Fritta
Sorbillo’s Pizza Fritta – They are quite large and very filling!
The famous Sorbillo’s Pizza has another store, which was founded in 1935, where you can purchase the traditional Pizza Fritta. This pizza is actually fried and not baked. It is made almost the same as traditional pizza up to the point – where they closed up all the sides, pinching them closed to ensure none of the ingredients can leak. Then they throw it in a very large frying pan with oil in it. It is served after it has turned a golden brown on brown piece of paper and can be sprinkled with salt or other spices. It is almost like a Calzone, but tastes completely different because of the frying process imparts a different taste to the dough. If you are a pizza lover, it is something you must try at least once.
Coppola’s Penetteria – Taralli
Another great thing to snack on, either while you walk or to bring home in a bag, are Taralli. At Coppola’s you will find these traditional biscuits along with other great treats. Taralli are made with lard, or fat, and are traditionally spiced with pepper. However, today almost all of the stores add almonds to the mix, in order to impart some extra flavor to this Neapolitan staple. Since they are a bit savory, but usually not salty, the pepper and almond comes through rather nicely.
Traditional Sfogliatell
Sfogliatella, it conjures up thoughts of heavenly gastronomic bliss. We end with this amazing pastry since most people probably are not aware that there are actually two different types. There is the Riccia, which everyone knows and loves with its characteristic million folds of dough (almost like Phyllo dough) which is hard and rather crunchy, with a center of Ricotta Cheese filling. Then there is the Frolla, which is almost the same, except it does not have all the folds in its dough, is softer and has more of a shiny appearance. Both are delicious and it usually comes down to personal preference on which one you like better.
Sfolgliate – Traditional Sfogliatelli
However, we must pause yet again, for most people are probably not aware that the original Sfogliatella did not have a Ricotta Cheese filling, but rather a blander and much easier to eat filling made of semolina dough and hazelnuts and/or almonds. At Sfolgliate you can find this traditional Sfogliatella made the way it was intended. It is, at this time, the only store in all of Naples that adheres to the old tradition. We tried the Riccia and must say, it was delicious!
That’s it for our food tour of historic Naples, hope you enjoyed it and learned something about the delicious food they have to offer but have not exported. I know, sad for us all, but definitely worth a try if you visit.
Outside the walls of Naples are the catacombs, the ancient burial grounds for the old Neapolis population. Neapolis is the ancient greek name for the city, which eventually morphed into Napoli, or Naples.
There are four known catacombs outside the city, two can be visited, the Catacombs of San Gennaro and the Catacombs of San Gaudioso. However, once you enter you quickly discover, that with some minor exceptions, there are no bodies here. In the former case they were exhumed by the French back in the 1700s and repatriated, in the latter they were moved to one of the other catacombs that currently cannot be visited.
Tickets for Two – Catacombs San Gennaro
Tickets for Two – Catacombs San Gaudioso
Catacombs of San Gennaro
About a mile from the old historic district off the Corso Amedeo di Savoia are the Catacombs of San Gennaro. The largest and least morbid of the two, this catacomb has an expansive underground and very interesting history. Since a guided tour is the only option possible, you learn all the details of the historical past of this catacomb, and some of the more perculiar fact (if you are willing to ask, e.g. where did all the bodies go – back to France). Since all catacombs, more or less look the same, here is a slide show.
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Baptismal Font – Catacombs San Gennaro
Church of San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Tickets for Two – Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs of San Gaudioso
Along the same road, about a fifteen minute walk back toward the city center, are the catacombs of San Gaudioso. These are underneath the Basilica di Santa Maria della Sanità and its entrance is actually in the Basilica. This tour actually contains skeletons, bones and sarcophagi buried in the walls, plastered over with their skulls sticking out and broken off (see show for examples).
Basilica di Santa Maria della Sanità – Catacombs San Gaudioso
Basilica di Santa Maria della Sanità – Catacombs San Gaudioso
Basilica di Santa Maria della Sanità – Ticket Office for the Catacombs San Gaudioso
Catacombs San Gaudioso – Patti descending
Catacombs San Gaudioso
Catacombs San Gaudioso
Catacombs San Gaudioso
Catacombs San Gaudioso
Catacombs San Gaudioso
Catacombs San Gaudioso
Dead People buried in wall, skull without faces – Catacombs San Gaudioso
Dead People buried in wall, skull without faces – Catacombs San Gaudioso
Catacombs San Gaudioso
Dead People buried in wall, skull without faces – Catacombs San Gaudioso
After a thorough introduction to Naples, we decided it was time to see some things we had shoved to one side until we got time.
Castle dell’Ovo
Castle dell’Ovo
Castel dell’Ovo, also known as The Egg or the Egg Castle is situated in the Bay of Naples. It used to be a small island, but was attached some time ago to make it more accessible. Entrance is free, even though you do have to schedule your attendance online. However, aside from the views, there truly is not much to see. It appears to have been reused for administration and other city or port related uses.
Hallway to art exhibit
Art exhibit
Along the parapets
Chiaia, Naples from the castle
Patti at the Castle
Vesuvius
The Bourbon Tunnels
There are tunnels, aqueducts and other underground features all throughout Naples. None has probably had more contemporary use than the Bourbon Tunnels, which were converted and used during World War II as bomb shelters and storage. There are two entrances to this underground museum, for scheduling reason we had to enter Vico del Grottone, the same street that our restaurant below for lunch was on, so very convenient.
Tickets for Two – Bourbon Tunnels
The following of our tour is provided uncaptioned, there is more information in the above internet link.
Patti descending
Patti
WW II electricity installlation
Restaurants
Trattoria da Ettore
This trattoria, as many others outside of the touristy areas, is an excellent little mom and pop restaurant. It has only six tables and when they are full for lunch, you are turned away (the same is true for dinner and probably for most restaurants in Italy, when they are full, they are full, so get there early). It is located on Vico del Grottone and it is figuratively speaking a hole in the wall.
After a few days traveling through the city we are beginning to get a better feel for this vibrant town. Divided into quarters or sections, but not along any obvious lines, there is reason to question where exactly you are at any given time. But one thing is for sure, you will find some uniqueness between them all. This is why its so important on spending some time in a large city such as Naples, which has over two million residents. Otherwise, there is no real way to get the actual vibe or quidditas of a place. I for one think it’s a great city and the Neapolitans are fantastic people.
A man working at a market stand – Vomero, Naples
After a few days traveling through the city we are beginning to get a better feel for this vibrant town. Divided into quarters or sections, but not along any obvious lines, there is reason to question at any given time where exactly your are, but one thing is for sure you will find some uniqueness. This is why its so important on spending some time in a large city such as Naples, which has over two million residents. Otherwise, there is no real way to get the actual vibe or quidditas of a place.
The real hard core vibe of Naples is the juxtaposition of the Centro Storico, or the historic center – with its throngs of tourists, against the backdrop and grittiness of The Spanish Quarter, the pandemonium of San Frenando, Porto and Mercato; and the quiet calm of Vomero and Chiaia. If you are looking for a city with stark contrasts, Naples is the city for you.
Naples – The Spanish Quarter
The Spanish Quarter
The Spanish Quarter obtained its name from the garrison of Spanish that were housed here and given the job to keep order throughout the city. It is entirely made up of narrow streets, passages, stairs and back alleyways that knit this complex community together. Directly alongside the Historic Center on one side and the hill of Vomero, it is quite self contained and apparently, from the looks of things, not very open to change, since from the looks of things nothing apparently has since they arrived.
Naples – Cruxifix and Cholera Memorial – The Spanish Quarter
The Spanish Quarter – Naples
The Spanish Quarter – Naples
With dirt and filth comes disease. As the photograph attests to a dramatic outbreak of cholera that swept through this part of the city in the 1800s, leaving behind devastation and death. Even today it is still actively adorned with flowers and other bits of memorabilia for protection, partly due to faith and partly due to superstition. Though all educated people know, it is easily combated with cleanliness and hygiene.
Centro Storico
The old part of the city has the most historical artifacts, churches and other points of interest. It is infested with tourists though, so planning is key. It is best to keep an eye on the number of cruise ships at dock (at any time there can be up to five very large ships docked) and then take your chances that you will have a minimal crowd.
Naples – Statue del Dio Nilo – San Lorenzo
As can be imagined there are a myriad of shops, cafes and restaurants in this area, which is comprised of the San Lorenzo Quarter. It is world famous for its Christmas Alley of Armeno, which is officially known as via San Gregorio Armeno.
Piazza Vincenzo Bellini – Roman Ruins – Naples – Centro Storico
Piazza Dante – via Port d’Alba – Centro Storico
Piazza Dante – Centro Storico
Piazza Dante – Centro Storico
Piazza Dante – Centro Storico
Armeno – Naples Christmas Alley
Deep in the heart of the historic center is a street that is known as Christmas Alley. It does not pay to explain, except through pictures.
Via San Gregorio Armeno – Christmas Alley – San Lorenzo Quarter
Via San Gregorio Armeno – Christmas Alley – San Lorenzo Quarter
Shops – Via San Gregorio Armeno – Christmas Alley – San Lorenzo Quarter
Vomero
Located on the hill adjacent to Chiaia and the Spanish Quarter is Vomero. Easily reached by taking one of the Funicular Trains from one of three places, Funicular Park in Chiaia, Augusteo in San Ferdinando or Montesanto in the Spanish Quarter. For a reasonable 1.10€ you can ascend to Vomero to visit the sights that it has to offer and enjoy its fine restaurants.
Tickets For Two – Funicular C.V. Emanuele
Funicular To Vomero
Funicular To Vomero
Funicular To Vomero
Funicular To Vomero
Funicular To Vomero
Castle Sant Elmo
In Vomero the Castle of Sant Elmo stands ever watchful over Naples. Known initially as Belforte, it was built sometime in the thirteenth century.
Tickets For Two – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Entrance Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
The castle is a sprawling edifice atop the hill commanding a view of all of Naples, including the hills behind it and the entire Gulf of Naples. Fitted previously with large guns, it must have been a formidable deterrent at one time. Visitors can walk the entirety of its parapets with all of its amazing views of the city, the gulf and surrounding islands.
Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Naples from Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
View of the Parapets – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Old Entrance – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Old Cannon – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Vesuvius and Bay of Naples from Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Bay of Naples – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Bay of Naples – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Watch Tower – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Bay of Naples – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Naples – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Bay of Naples – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Panorama of Naples and Vesuvius from Sant Elmo
Naples – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Mount Vesuvius – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
“See Naples and Die”
“See Naples and Die”
Cloister di San Martino
Cloister of San Martino – Vomero
Just below the Castle of Sant Elmo sits the monastery and cloister of San Martino. Converted into a museum, it too commands a view of the Gulf of Naples.
Royal and Religious Carriages
Hall with Religious Artwork
Collection of Artifacts
Creche dioramas on display
The museum has a selection of old royal carriages and artifacts from the late Renaissance. From old frescoes, paintings and church memorabilia it houses many religious antiquities from famous Napoletano church leaders. Then there are the creches of Christ’s birth, which are extremely detailed and draw your attention to every little thing that each one of the small characters is modeled to portray.
Restaurants
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria
One of the place to go apparently in Naples is Gino e Toto Sorbillo’s Pizzeria. Located on via dei Tribunali it gathers a crowd early, so getting there a half an hour or so ahead of time would reduce your wait. During normal times it may even be wiser to queue up earlier. We happen to go during a day when only one cruise ship arrived and got there twenty minutes early and we were about fourth in line. The place is rather large, but by the time we were finished people were waiting outside for some time.
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria – Store Front – San Lorenzo, Naples
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria – Menu – San Lorenzo, Naples
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria – Own Wine Label – San Lorenzo, Naples
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria – Classic Margherita – San Lorenzo, Naples
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria – Patti ready to eat – San Lorenzo, Naples
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria – Inside – San Lorenzo, Naples
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria – Inside – San Lorenzo, Naples
The pizza is simple but amazing. Having never eaten here before, we ordered the recommended Pizza Margherita. With a half bottle of their own red wine and some water we were quite full and happy when we left.
Armando Scartuchio
Armando Scartuchio is a chain of cafes with a rich history and several stores sprinkled throughout the city and a must place to stop. Though we only stopped at one, it must hold mostly true that any pastries made by this company taste more a less the same, no matter where you eat them. We found ours just outside the Spanish Quarter in Montecalvario.
Armando Scartuchio – Montecalvario, Naples
While staying in Naples it is an absolute necessity to stop each day around eleven o’clock or so to have coffee and a bite to eat. This is an excellent place to recharge your morning battery. Still early enough to order two Cappuccino and some very good baked goods, an excuse to drink, eat and further discuss the plans of the day. We ordered a few very interest things we thought we just had to taste.
Capucino, Lemon Tort and Chocolate Nut Cake
Lemon Tort and Chocolate Nut Cake
Pistachio Creme Cake
Display Case – Armando Scartuchio – Montecalvario, Naples
TrattoriaMalinconico
Situated well out of the way is Trattoria Malinconico. A place not often, if ever, visited by tourists, so they were quite interested and curious when we stopped for lunch.
Trattoria Malinconico – Vomero
For starters, this Trattoria is in Vomero, which is on top of the hill. Therefore you must either take one of the three funiculars to get there or climb a very large and then still walk a kilometer or so before reaching it. Even then, it is kind of hidden around the corner from the well established market street on the end of a dead end street in a sort of strip mall.
Beef Genovese with Pasta and Bread – Trattoria Malinconico – Vomero, Naples
In any case, the food is excellent and home cooked. Our interest was is getting the most authentic tasting Beef Genovese that we could find and our searches ended us up at this small but excellent establishment. What we found on the menu was actually that, but it was called Pasta Genovese with Meat, also known as Genovese Completa. It didn’t matter, for 8€ we ordered it with a mezzo litro of red wine and ate our hearts out.
On our return trip from Romania, we took a few days from the 22nd to the 24th of September, to stay in Milan with our sons. The point was to relax a bit, before they took their return flight from Malpensa Airport back to the States, and to see a few of the sights. We were lucky enough this time to have had the luxury of purchasing tickets. That is, within six months of their use, in order to visit Da Vinci’s Last Supper and Crucifixion, two works by him that are the most difficult to see. Luckily, few people for various reasons are able to travel or visit these works now, making access to them more readily available. So we jumped at that chance when we saw tickets were in fact available.
Milan – Museum Cenacolo Vinciano – Tickets For Two
I am not going to comment on Da Vinci’s work, but let his masterpieces speak for themselves.
Hotel Manzoni
Located in Milan’s Quadrilatero Della Moda section, this four star hotel can be found on Via Santo Spirito. Both outside and inside are quite compact and very well kept. There is a bellman to help with luggage and front desk that is occupied around the clock.
Milan – Hotel Manzoni
Our rooms were suites and rather spacious for being in the historic part of Milan. Most floors are decorated in marble with tastefully chosen chandeliers, some of which are from Murano.
Milan – Hotel Manzoni – Floors
Milan – Hotel Manzoni – Lobby
Museum Cenacolo Vinciano
The museum is located in Piazza di Santa Marie della Grazie and contains the works of Leonardo Da Vinci’s Last Supper and Crucifixion.
Da Vinci’s The Last Supper and Crucifixion – Viewing Area
Da Vinci’s Last Supper
Da Vinci’s The Last Supper
Da Vinci’s The Last Supper – Original Shot
Da Vinci’s Crucifixion
Da Vinci’s Last Supper
Da Vinci’s Last Supper – Details
Legend:
Christ
Tito
Dimaco
St. Vincent Ferrer
Ludovico il Moro
St. Peter Martyr
Virgin Mary
St. Dominic
Mary Magdalene
St. Thomas Aquinas
St. John
St. Catherin of Siena
Beatrice d’Este
St. Maragaret of Hungary
Restaurants
Near Hotel Manzoni are several very good restaurants, as is per usual in most Quadrilateral sections of Italian cities. Since we did not have a lot of time to spend in Milan, the below two were identified and chosen based on customer reviews and not necessarily the most common ones used on the internet. Anyone visiting should expect the prices to reflect the food and the historic area they are in. Complaining about prices, when you probably should be eating street pizza, is just a waste of your time and money.
Il Salumaio Di Montenapoleone
Though it receives only a mid four star rating on one site in the internet, that should not deter anyone from visiting. Keep in mind, that if you are from a country like the U.S. or one similar to it from Europe, service times are not the same in Italy and may not match your expectations. Service usually takes around two hours, especially if you order wine and any other extras, but it is first rate. Dress is casual and the food and service are excellent.
Milan – Ristorante Il Salumaio Di Montenapoleone
Milan – Ristorante Il Salumaio Di Montenapoleone – Tristan and Dana
Milan – Ristorante Il Salumaio Di Montenapoleone – Courtyard
Ristorante Bice
Also known as Da Gino e Bice (from Gino and Beatrice) or just Bice, this Tuscan inspired restaurant has been a mainstay of Milan cuisine for more than a century. The restaurant’s upscale interior matches its food. It is also situated in Montanapoleone on Via Borgospesso and a short walk from our hotel.
Milan – Ristorante Bice
Milan – Ristorante Bice – Tristan and Patti
Milan – Ristorante Bice – Dana and Tristan
Milan – Ristorante Bice – A Very Good Gaja from Montalcino
This restaurant has an excellent menu and wine list, though upon further inspection I found the wine list needing a bit of an update in the Barolo section. But we found an acceptable one nonetheless. Again, being in a very trendy area where Fendi, Prada and other stores are located, the prices reflect the location and the menu’s quality.
A drive of some distance from Buşteni lies the town of Bran. Somewhat nondescript, but having all the trappings of a typical tourist area, it is for sure a more relaxed atmosphere than the Prahova Valley.
Bran Castle – Interior
Its claim to fame is of course Castle Bran, the so called home of Vampires, Count Dracula and other Penny Dreadful, that Bram Stoker made so famous. It neither has the feel nor unearthly aura of a place where so many horrors could have ostensibly been committed by Vlad Tepes, or more noteworthy, Vlad the Impaler, as current folklore would have it. Overall, it was an interesting day trip, warranted by the excellent restaurant we ate at, and to finally put to rest in our own minds exactly what all the vampire fuss is about. Others will probably have similar epiphanies if they visit, just as I did.
Parking on E574 – Castle Bran
Bran – The Town
Bran is an out of the way town which seems to enjoy some tourist traffic, but only because of its namesake. It lies on E574, which is on the west side of the Bucegi Range of the Southern Carpathian Mountains and about an hour’s ride from Buşteni, that is in good weather and when there is no bridge or road construction (something we were unfortunate enough to experience on our return to Buşteni).
Bran – E574
Bran – E574 – The Town
Bran – E574 – Walking To The Castle
Bran – E574 – Street Vendors
Bran – E574 – Street Vendors
Bran – Vendors Along Bran Castle Entrance
Bran – Along Bran Castle Entrance
The rivers Poarta and Turcul run through the town, but they are hardly noticed due to their diminutive sizes. There are several places to park, a very large overflow parking area may be found on Strada Doctor Aurel Stoian, when the tourist season is in full gear. We parked in the Castel Parking place off of E574, right next to the restaurant we visited for lunch.
Bran – Bran Castle Entrance
Bran – Bran Castle Entrance with Celtic Cross with Romanian Cyrillic characters.
Bran – Bran Castle Entrance
Castle Bran
The castle is perched on the side of a hill of the western Bucegi Range and commands a view of the entire countryside, as well as the valley below through which the river Turcul runs. One can hardly doubt that it is fixed to its position with the help of an outcropping of rock, for which Bram Stoker used against it to steal its reference from an illustrative book. It is of course a misrepresentation and artistic license that allowed him to do this, though some in this area would detail occurrences of Strigoi, evil spirits who wander the night between the hours of midnight and daybreak, in his defense. But one should not think them related to the castle, nor Vlad the Impaler, who, as evidence would suggest, has become a victim of his own success to levy tariffs and taxes on the German merchants who did not want to pay. The idea of money representing blood, blood money, etc., is not without parallel in our own history.
Celtic Cross – Romanian Cyrillic Characters
The castle has no doubt cashed in on the mythology of Dracula or Count Dracul, however, they are careful not to inflame any details regarding this myth. There are little to no reference to Count Dracula nor Vlad as an Impaler. However, there is a very good Torture museum on the grounds, which for about 10€ more will gain you entrance.
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
The character of Dracula is often confused with Vlad Tepes, also known as Vlad Dracul, who was a Walachian Prince who lived in Bran Castle. It is the only castle in all of Transylvania that can possibly fit Bram Stoker’s description of the castle that Dracula in his book lived in; hence, it is now known throughout the world as Dracula’s Castle. His novel described the castle as,
. . . on the very edge of a terrific precipice . . . with occasionally a deep rift where there is a chasm [of] silver threads where the rivers winds in deep gorges through the forests.
Bram Stoker obviously stole the appellation from an illustrated book that showed Bran Castle and then took it as his fictitious abode for Count Dracula. He used rather straightforward references to imply the he meant none other than Vlad Tepes, who was the Wallachian Rules from 1456 until 1467, and who, for political reasons, was labeled as a blood thirsty tyrant, as has already been previously mentioned.
Nonetheless, in Bran and the villages nearby, one can still find the belief in the existence of evil spirits called Strigoi. There was and still a belief that there exist certain living people, or Strigoi, who lead an abnormal life at night, when during sleep, their souls leave their bodies and haunt the village tormenting people while they sleep. These evil spirits supposedly haunt their prey from midnight until dawn, when sunlight appears to affect their powers and their potential to do harm fades. The character of Dracula derives no doubt most of its power from these local myths, there is no other explanation for its endurance. Its power has however faded over time, that is, when exposed to the corrosive of the sunlight of education and scientific scrutiny, as most other things preternatural.
Bran Castle – Tickets For Two
In the Fall of 1462, thirty years before Columbus visited the New World, an army of the Hungarian King Matei Corvin captured Vlad Tepes near Rucar. He was taken to Bran Castle and imprisoned there for at least two months. This could quite possibly be his one and only association with the castle. Where others have tried to fabricate, inveigle or obfuscate the narrative of Count Dracula from the Stoker book, history reveals the truth. Sleep well.
Restaurants
There are many restaurants in Bran, the most convenient one that we found was directly next to the parking lot we used. However there are several others that are without a doubt very convenient and good to use as well.
Bran – Casa di Bran
Casa di Bran
This restaurant offered a very cosmopolitan and Romanian based menu, one for which anyone could order something to please them.
Bran – Casa di Bran – Dobre, Gabi, Ioana Secara, Theresa Griffin and Ericka (née Griffin) Secara
Bran – Casa di Bran – Jason and Meagan Reinfried, Tristan, Patti and Dana Griffin – Case di Bran
Above are my choices for lunch which included wine, coffee and dessert, though all were served à la carte.
Potato Soup – Mistranslated as Vegetable Soup
Braised Chicken with Salad
Our family had a very good lunch, while it rained for a while outside. Good timing before our visit to the castle.
