A trip from Winchester to Salisbury, where the Salisbury Cathedral is located, and not much further from there the famous Stonehenge, requires you, if you are taking the train, to go to Southampton first, then back up to Salisbury; a round trip that will cost you a bit over an hour’s time and nearly 19£/round-trip.
Salisbury Cathedral
The cathedral in Salisbury apparently contains a few things of note. First it possesses the tallest spire for any church in England. It is also quite unique in that it also possesses a double transept, which can be seen in the main photograph above.
Secondly, it houses one of the copies of the Magna Carta, a vital historic document important to anyone who believes in democracy.
Hallway to the Magna Carta
Ante Room where the Magna Carta is housed
Church Room of the Magna Carta
Salisbury
Salisbury, pronounced salzbury, is a quaint little city, somewhat larger and a bit busier than its cousin to the east, Winchester. It contains many, what would appear to Americans as typical colonial looking houses and shops. One cannot therefore help to compare places in the New England area of the United States with it.
Tickets for Two!
Hampshire Countryside
Salisbury Train Station
Salisbury
Salisbury – High Street Gate
Salisbury
Salisbury – High Street Gate
Salisbury – Adorned Fence
While visiting, we saw one Roman Gate, the High Street Gate. Originally there were some fives gates around the city, though we only found evidence of the one surviving.
Red Lion Hotel and Bar
Red Lion Hotel and Bar
Since our visit coincided with lunch, we found and ate at the Red Lion Hotel. They have a simple menu and drinks, but enough for one to get full and back out exploring.
Stonehenge
This is my second visit to Stonehenge and the surrounding area remains just as beautiful as I remember it. Though it was still threatening to rain, it was a bit warmer this time. There is not much else to say about the place other than you have to visit it. It’s amazing that neolithic man could have erected something like this, for whatever reasons, with the little technology they had at the time.
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Once you are done photographing and exploring the stones, there is a visitor center where you can learn more and get some refreshments. Though it cost us the good part of a day, it’s definitely worth the trip!
Close to a two-hour bus ride to the west-southwest of London is Winchester, just a mere twenty-minute train ride from the coast and Southampton.
NationalExpress Bus 032 – Winchester, England
Though we attempted to take a train to this marvelous little town, we ended up scheduling a bus ride through NationalExpress, which provided a more direct albeit one more subject to the vagaries of traffic.
Winchester Cathedral
Winchester Cathedral – The Impressive Front Entrance
Just behind our hotel, the Mecure, stands Winchester Cathedral. Because it is no longer funded by the government, there is usually an entrance fee of 9£. But, if you go on a Sunday evening, when it is open for mass you may be lucky enough to enter for free.
Winchester Cathedral
Winchester Cathedral
Winchester Cathedral
As made famous by Frank Sinatra and other pop artist of the 60’s and 70’s, everyone my age probably knows the song “Winchester Cathedral”. Well here is the real thing and an impressive structure it is, along with its history.
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Winchester – The Town
Winchester – Market Lane
Winchester – Market Lane
The town proper is a very nice place, with its own central shopping pedestrian street with plenty of trendy shops, cafés and restaurants.
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Above one can see some additional photographs as we took them walking through this lovely little town.
Winchester City Museum
The City Museum
A free and very informative little museum sits almost directly in the middle of town, just a stone’s throw from The Eclipse Inn, called the City Museum.
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There are numerous exhibits which starts on the top floor with the Roman Period of Winchester, formerly known to the Romans as Venta Belgarum around 70 A.D. This is followed on second floor (that would be the first floor for Europeans) with an entire section on the Norman Period. And finally on the ground floor with contemporary history.
The Great Hall
The Great Hall – Entrance
The Great Hall is a large 13th century hall that features King Arthur’s Round Table. It is the only building remaining of the Winchester Castle that used to reside here and has been turned into a museum.
The Great Hall
The Great Hall – King Arthur’s Round Table
The Great Hall – Stained Glass Added At A Later Date
The Great Hall
The City Mill
The Winchester City Mill is a restored and fully working water-mill that sits over the river Itchen.
Winchester City Mill – Water Coming Out of the Front of the Mill
It costs 6£ to enter and has audio-visual as well as hands-on displays for children. It is a one floor museum with access to the lower section in order to see the actual mill-wheel and transfer gears.
The museum also has a nice little park area where you can sit and enjoy the day, if it’s not raining!
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If you actually watch the entire video presentation you will find it most informative, since it goes into the mill itself, along with its historic ups and downs. The building was even used at one time as a hostel for cyclists and hikers!
Another day in London and more to see. Before we left, our daughter Meagan purchased the 3-day London Pass. The pass is a bit pricey, but gets you into loads of Museums, Memorials, Churches and many other places. This includes, the Churchill War Rooms, HMS Belfast, the Shard, St. Paul’s Cathedral, Westminster Abbey and many others. So we thought it might be a good buy.
Churchill War Rooms
If you have any interest at all how the British and their Prime Minister, Winston Churchill, survived and ultimately helped win the war, then you have to see his war rooms.
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As can be imagined, London itself is teaming with memorials from all of its wars. This one however is amazing, because it impresses upon the visited some of the effort, at the highest levels, it took to fight a war on a global scale.
The Pin Map of Europe
One of several Southeast Asian Maps
England was not only fighting the Germans, but also the Japanese, who invaded their southeast Asian colonies as well.
Churchill’s Direct Line with the White House
During those times both England and America saw the need for direct communications and arrange a phone system to stretch completely across the Atlantic Ocean. A feat we take for granted today.
The War Rooms are full of interactive venues where you can take your time to read, explore and learn about the man who took England through one of the most dangerous and dark times in its history.
The HMS Belfast
HMS Belfast
As promised in my earlier post, we did indeed have the occasion to board the HMS Belfast. Again, it’s part of the London Pass and allows you to roam a WWII era British Cruiser.
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Since we have already discussed the ship in Part One, we give you a slide show of the ship as you can explore and see it.
And if you are looking for enemies, well I imagine this baby can still find ’em..! [Joke: it’s only a prop]
Eating
If you are ever in London and looking for a place to eat, there are of course as you can imagine, thousands to choose from. We have eaten at the following restaurants and can recommend them all highly.
The Wolseley
We had a brunch here and the atmosphere, perhaps a take on old empire England with Oriental panels, was unique.
The food was everything, from the usual simple English breakfast fare, to the more exotic dishes with fish, animal organs, etc. However, they have bacon and eggs and their egg omelets are great too!
Meagan and Jason
Patti and Erick
The Hawksmoor Seven Dials
I have no idea how they derived this name, so do not ask. However, if you are looking for a good steak, this is the place to go, a carnivores heaven.
The food prices here are, as expected, a bit on the high side, but not as high as some of the wine. There are only a few entries in the wine list under 50£. For example, the Chateau de Beaucastel above, went for 165£. So bring your plastic, or plenty of cash.
The Ivy
This is perhaps my favorite. A cozy place that serves several different and interesting kinds of fare, backed up by a reasonably priced wine list.
The atmosphere here is just great, since the architecture of the building is a triangle; there are stained glass windows all around you. The bar is the centerpiece and very well done, surrounded by tables with small lamps on them, reminiscent of something out of a by-gone era. Highly recommended!
This being our second day in London, it was time to meet up with our daughter Meagan and her husband Jason and do some real sight-seeing. Though just having flown in from New York City would slow us down a little bit.
London Bridge and the Borough Market
Our first order of business, after having some time to catch-up and then take “The Tube“, was to walk across the real London Bridge from Monument Station. Not to be confused with the Tower Bridge which we will discuss later.
London Bridge – Is NOT Falling Down
London Bridge – Public Works Building
The Borough Market is the quintessential small town market on steroids for a big city like London. It has a myriad of trendy shops and market kiosks, along with traditional farm products from all over Europe being represented with their quality meats and cheeses. Of course, I wanted to purchase some Alpine Cheese or Tyrolese Sausage, but time and fear of having it taken from my luggage on the trip back to Italy, prevented me from doing so.
Borough Market
Borough Market – The Produce Section
Borough Market – More Streets, More Fun
This walk took us in the general direction of the new “The Shard“, a triangular spire of a building reminiscent of the “One World Trade Center“. After having a very unremarkable lunch at the Horniman at Hays, we ascended The Shard for a view of the city.
The Shard
As one can imagine, on a good day like ours, you can see the entire city from this height.
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HMS Belfast
The HMS Belfast is a Town-class British 6 inch gun light cruiser of World War II vintage. Similar in age to the U.S.S. North Carolina in Wilmington, North Carolina, this ship has real class and some very nice lines. If time permits I hope to go back and have a peak inside.
H.M.S. Belfast – From The Shard
H.M.S. Belfast – From the Docks
The Tower Bridge and Tower of London
When London comes to mind for me, I think of the BBC and the river Thames flowing under the Tower Bridge as a preamble to TV shows I frequently watched on PBS.
The Tower Bridge – An Iconic London Landmark
Since I last saw it, years ago, the bridge appears to be woefully in need of a paint job, though nonetheless it is still graceful in appearance.
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As some may already know, the Tower Bridge is most likely named after the Tower of London, that well-known ancient prison and current repository for the Crown Jewels.
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The grounds to the Tower of London are rather large, and there is quite a lot to see here. There are several museums to visit, all of which appear to have been done in very good detail.
Tower of London – Changing of the Guard
One can also see a similar “Changing of the Guard” that you can witness at Buckingham Palace. Just behind the guards above, is the entrance to the Crown Jewels.
The Crown Jewels
As had been alluded to before, there are several other towers that one can visit, all of which have different histories. One of the better ones, and which also involves Sir Walter Raleigh, of North Carolina fame, is the Bloody Tower.
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From 1603 until 1616, Sir Walter Raleigh was held prisoner here. Though he was afforded amenities not many other prisoners were given, including gardening to make herbal remedies and other concoctions, his internment still must have been very unpleasant.
Where to start, especially when visiting the most densely populated place on Earth? I guess for us, that would be the SNCF train station, which is about a 30 minute ride from Nice. In Monaco,it drops you off in a tunnel, like other places we enjoyed in Cinque Terre, Italy. So like there, we had to walk a long tunnel and climb some stairs to finally emerge and enjoy our destination.
Monaco Harbor
Once you start walking, you can tell that space here is at a premium. Even the sidewalks are not as generously proportioned as other places that we have visited.
Within ten minutes or so, we found ourselves walking along the Avenue de la Quarantaine. Viewing the port, which when compared with photographs of the 1970s, was crammed with watercraft of all sizes.
Theatre du Fort Antoine
Along The Digue de L’Avant Port
Along The Digue de L’Avant Port
Port from The Digue de L’Avant Port
On the point where you need to take a right and walk along the coast, is a theatre called the Theatre du Fort Antoine. Though very nice, with an almost modern appeal, it is not considered a cultural spot for the city. Proceeding along the Digue de L’Avant Port, you walk directly toward the institute.
Musée Océanographique
Oceanographic Institute of Monaco – Sea View
Also known as the Oceanographic Institute of Monaco; a rather impressive building from the sea. The former study and laboratory for Jacques-Ives Cousteau and his adventures, is itself also responsible for introducing some of the invasive species now threatening the Mediterranean Sea — via the unconscionable practice of flushing unwanted biological organisms down the toilet or drain, as practiced in other developed countries as well.
Oceanographic Institute of Monaco – Internal Entrance from Parking Garage
Oceanographic Institute of Monaco – Main Entrance
The Institute is well fitted to handle a large number of visitors with underground parking, that accommodates large buses and escalators to assist all, up to the ticket lobby. One must first pass multiple shops and other facilities, before entering the institute to enjoy the museum and/or aquarium.
Tickets For Two
The Museum
It is divided into two equally impressive multi-level rooms which contain a very large selection of specimens, stories and artifacts from the natural world, encompassing the globe.
The Main Hall
One Entrance To The Museum
A Kayak In The Main Hall
Shadowbox Displays
Shadowbox Display – Showing The Calypso
The large main hall has a very large wall display meant to be offered as a shadowbox of significant developments in oceanography, which happily includes the Calypso.
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With specific emphasis on the oceans and their habitats, the collection also includes some archeological specimens in the form of fossils and replication of prehistoric animals. These are used as a pedagogical device and comparison to present day species which are on display here.
Fish from the Deep Oceans
One can find one of two displays on deep-sea creatures as well, which are interesting to see, even if it is in a petrified state.
There is also a section detailing the scientific devices and methods used in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s.
One Of Cousteau’s Submarines
Outside, there is apparently the first submarine Cousteau used early in his career.
It took us a little over an hour to complete the museum, which we did before seeing the aquarium.
The Aquarium
I have been to many aquariums, but I must say this one ranks up at the top five for sure. Not only for the breath and depth of species they have, but also the specimens and facilities are very well-kept. All the animals appear quite normal in behavior and have more than sufficient space to enjoy what surroundings they have been given.
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There are a few large main tanks which host a myriad of species and most of the large predators, including sharks.
The Nautilus Tank
The rare species that they do have, include the Cuttlefishand the Nautilis. With the Cuttlefish, you definitely get the feeling that this animal is not only looking back at you, but that there is also some analysis going on as well — definitely an intelligent species.
My favorites are unfortunately the ones I used to have in fish tanks. The Emperor Angelfish, Hippo Tang and Copperbanded Butterfly fish stand out to me to be some of the most interesting and beautiful specimens.
But, the Damselfish are also great to view, with their luminescent blue and their proclivity for darting back and forth.
Even with the current onslaught against the Amazon, there are also Piranha here too. One can only wonder when this species will be threatened too, if not already.
Seahorse are one of the more popular attractions, most likely because they are so different from all of the normal or bony fishes. But then again, what is a normal fish?
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Eating In Monaco
After our long visit at the institute, it was time to get something to eat. Not but a five-minute walk away, we found Restaurant L’Aurora.
Restaurant L’Aurore – Fine Food and Good Service
This is another restaurant that will remind those who travel along the coast of France and Italy of Niçose style. The menu offers a fusion of French and Italian dishes. It is sometimes unclear in the Côte d’Azur, if you are eating French or Italian; either will claim the dishes and cuisine are theirs! However, this is a good restaurant. The food was very good and the staff very accommodating. I had the blue plate special, just one selection of which there were many.
L’Aurora – Staff and Inside
Daily Special – Ravioli – Ummm-Umm-Good!
Monte Carlo
Not far from the train station, perhaps a 20 minute walk away, is Monte Carlo. Having come this far we pushed forward up the hill and up to Monte Carlo to see what, if anything, it was all about.
Monte Carlo
Monte Carlo – Litfaßsäule
Our initial impression was no one lives here, all we saw were tourists. If one took the tourists away, then no one would be walking around. Obviously, just a playground for the filthy rich. Even the sidewalks are tiled and run perfectly to adjoin all the buildings where they meet. I saw no homeless people.
Patti and Ericka – Walking in Monte Carlo
Almost every store and door has a doorman; there are security personnel walking around everywhere. You get the distinct impression that whether you live here or not, you are suspected at all times.
Casino de Monte Carlo
The Casino de Monte Carlo is perhaps the only architecturally significant building in this area. Though a bit ostentatious, it has a certain appeal, even for those not expecting it.
Not much to see from the outside and there is a considerable piazza outside, probably doubling as a parking lot for important occasions. Not interested in the inside, no relation of ours, we took our photographs and left for other sites.
Apotheosa Monaca
Conclusion
Though I found the city-state interesting, I have no wish to live there; it appears devoid of real life.
Freiheit liebe ich und die Luft über frischer Erde; lieber noch will ich auf Ochsenhäuten schlafen, als auf ihren Würden und Achtbarkeiten.
Ich bin zu heiss und verbrannt von eigenen Gedanken: oft will es mir den Athem nehmen. Da muss ich in’s Freie und weg aus allen verstaubten Stuben.
Our trip to Antibes, which today is the major port for the Côtes d’Azur, was mainly due to visit the Musée Picasso. From Nice, by way of the SNCF train system, we disembarked from the main train station at the upper part of town, near the base of the port and walked into town.
Antibes – The Old City
Antibes – The Old City
The old city is some 15 to 20 minute walk along the Avenue de le Liberation, Avenue Paul Arène and Boulevard d’Aguillon.
Boulevard d’Aguillon
Patti Walking The Boulevard d’Aguillon
Antibe – Start of the Boulevard d’Aguillon
Foutain at the Gate of Rue Aubernon
Antibes is not as impressive as some of the other towns and cities you will find along this famous coast, but we found that it has its own kind of charm.
Antibes – Old City Charm
Antibes – Old City Charm
It has many narrow side streets filled with shops and a very large plaza, Place Nationale, where vendors of all kinds sell different things. While we were there, a market similar to one we would call a flea market in the States, was in full swing. Everything from furniture to estate items were offered for sale.
Antibes – Place Nationale
The old city is also a great place to just wander along street to street. Turning a corner you never know what you may find. In some small streets there are still old-style electric wires on glass insulators, a throw-back no doubt of the 1950’s or 60’s.
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Additional areas we wander through are shown above, enjoy.
Where To Eat
As with most tourist spots, there are plenty of places to eat and there are some tourists here; no doubt drawn here for the same reasons we went, Picasso.
On the tip of the main plaza, Place Nationale, just around the corner on Rue Sade, is Le Chaudron. After a quick survey of what was available outside, we choose it because of its menu and decor. It turned out to be a cozy little place with good food.
Risotto with Bacon, Squash and Parmessan for Lunch – Bon Appétit
Le Chaudron – Door to Dining Area
Le Chaudron – Patti Enjoying Lunch
Le Chaudron – Looking out to the Street
All in all with the addition of the museum stop we consider Antibes a very nice place to visit. It one of the remaining if not the last active working port on this coast so you will also see plenty of maritime shops and stores as well as those for tourists.
Picasso Museum
Located at Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse and Montée Dor de la Souchère right next to the sea is the Musée Picasso. Housed in a very well-kept structure called the Grimaldi Castle (1368-1608), it commands a space in the old city few other buildings are afforded, not even the churches. The castle was built on top of the ancient Greek acropolis of the former city of Antipolis.
Musèe Picasso
The building was purchase in 1925 by the city of Antibes to become what was known then as the Grimaldi Museum. Picasso actually spent time here in 1946 and used it as a workshop. He subsequently made a very generous donation to the museum, some of which were even created there.
Pablo Picasso – circa 1946
The exhibit is impressive and contains many of his works from his 1946 period. There is probably something here for every taste but the main themes nudes and shellfish (apparently inspired by the meals he partook while there).
Pablo Picasso – circa 1946
There are also several photographs of the artist along with text and one can also purchase an audio guide for the entire collection.
Note: Aside from the sculptor if there is any interest at all in me providing captions for the works below, then please send me a review with your request. I will also remove this comment after I have done so. Enjoy!
Sitting less than two miles from Nice is Villefranche-sur-Mer, a mere walk away. Since this little port town is also part of the Côte d’Azur SNCF train system, we decided to do just that, one sunny day. We took a walk over the Mont Boron and took the train back.
Walking From Nice
If you are lucky enough to visit this quaint little town on the sea while no cruise ship is in the bay, then you would be as lucky as we were the day we decided to walk there from Nice. A frequent stop of cruise ships Villefranche-sur-Mer is the most used cruise ship docking port in France. Luckily we were spared both the site and the influx of tourists that accompanies such an ocurrence.
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From the old city of Nice, we ascended Mont Boron, which I must say is much higher on the side of Fort du Mont Alban than we experienced on Castle Hill, Mont Boron’s smaller cousin. However, there are very good paths that switchbacks all the way up to help you with the ascent.
Fort du Mont Alban
The fort from the outside appears to be a four-sided bastion fort. Made entirely of stone, it stands impressively on top of the mountain. Unfortunately, entrance cannot be gained and it appears to be closed. There are no indications that it has ever been opened to the public.
Nice – Fort du Mont Alban
Nice – The Front of Fort du Mont Alban
With the exception of walking up the front stairs to the main door, there appear to be no other entrances on the other sides.
Fort du Mont Alban – Main Gate
Fort du Mont Alban – North Side
Fort du Mont Alban – Ericka from Front Gate
Fort du Mont Alban – West Side
After getting our fill of the view from this vantage point, our walk to Villefranche-sur-Mer continued by finding the path to the town about a hundred meters to the left, leaving the fort. On your map, this path may be called the Chemin du Fort du Mont Alban.
Patti Descending the Chemin du Fort du Mont Alban
The path starts off easily without much slope, but it progressively gets steeper and less developed the further down you go, until you finally hit the town itself. So, care should be taken.
The Town On The Sea
The Bay of Villefranche-sur-Mer from Mayssa Beach Restaurant
From the path you will exit via a walkway to the Avenue du Fort. Since we were thirsty and starting to get hungry, we followed our noses down and finally found the Avenue du Marechal Foch. We found a cafe there for a quick drink. Then it was off to find a restaurant. Ericka found one overlooking the water called Mayssa Beach. A good pick, great service, excellent view and good food at a reasonable price.
Mayssa Beach – Ericka and Patti
Mayssa Beach – Heirloom Tomato Caprese
Mayssa Beach – Rigatoni Special
After haven eaten and relaxed a bit, we decided to walk the Quai de l’Amiral Courbet. The town is actually quite small and has very narrow streets. Enjoy the following photographs from this little gem on the coast.
The tiny medieval town of Èze-Village sits like a barnacle some fourteen hundred feet above the sea. From this perch you can see miles of coastline. The other part of the commune Èze-sur-Mer sits directly below it, very close to the sea. Historically, it is very old, going way back before Roman times. As I write this, I must confess some incredulity as why anyone would build something back then so high up and away from the sea. The only answer I can come up with is for protection from what I can only conjecture.
Getting There From Nice
To get to Èze-Village (tourism) from Niceyou have several public commuting options, in order of difficulty. You can take the bus directly there. The route was 82 at the time of this writing, but this may change, so check the bus schedule. The easiest was to do this is at the Information Center at the Nice Train Station. Keep in mind that buses depart from different places in the city, so you will either have to walk or make other arrangements, bus or tram perhaps, to get there. If a direct bus route is not to your liking you can also take the SNCF train. These run along the coast and depart from Nice regularly and stop at Èze-sur-Mer. You will then have to take the bus to Èze-Village atop the hill, or, hike up the hill which will take about an hour.
Èze-Village – From the Bus Stop
For those who experience motion sickness take care, as any bus ride you take will require the necessary sedatives or medications. The roads are very windy and have numerous switchbacks!
The Nietzsche Footpath – Length Over 2km
For those who cannot see their own toes and cannot touch them without bending their knees, I would not consider trying to hike up the mountain. It is somewhat treacherous and steep. We used it to return and on the way down we saw an older couple who were going down and having trouble (read shortness of breath, etc). The Nietzsche Footpath is impressive, it is not a real footpath but more like a hiking trail and has probably taken its share of victims over the years. Be smart and do NOT ignore the sign at the start.
Road Up To Èze-Village – The Start
Entering Èze-Village
Èze-Village
Èze-Village
Not knowing these options ahead of time, we decided to take the bus directly from Nice. Before it even arrived, there was quite a group of people waiting at the stop. If you do have motion sickness issues you may want to wait for a bus that is not packed or ask someone on the bus once you are on, if you may have a window seat. This is especially true if your bus driver, like ours, must have dreams of driving Formula One race cars! If your bus is as crowded as ours was, you may not be able to look out. So again, be prepared, you’ve been warned!
The Botanical Garden
Èze-Village – Overview from Botanical Garden
At the summit of this beautiful little town, sits a Botanical Garden. Called Èze Botanical Garden it displays vegetation that typically grows along the Mediterranean coast. The entry fee for us was 5€ and you pay right there before you go in. It’s probably money well spent since the views are amazing and they obviously use the money to keep the garden up, which I must say is in fantastic condition.
Patti and Erick – Botanical Garden
Our Daughter Ericka – Botanical Garden
There are also several places in the garden to take photographs.
Devil’s Bridge Plaque – Botanical Garden
Devil’s Bridge – Botanical Garden
The Botanical Garden also has an excellent view of the Devil’s Bridge (I know every town and country seems to have this bridge, but it’s pretty cool to see anyway).
The Perfumeries
Galimard Perfumery – Visitor Center Display
Galimard Perfumery – Visitor Center Display
Galimard Perfumery – Visitor Center Display
Galimard Perfumery – Cologne/Perfume Mixing Station
In Èze-Village there are several Perfumeries where one can make an appointment to actually spend time with a certified Perfumologist and mix their own fragrance. The two major ones that sit next to one another, are Galimard and Fragonard. We chose Galimard, for whatever reason and found the whole process quite intriguing, though completely out of my league (I just do not have the nose for it). The cost at 80€ each can be considered high but includes you walking away with your own scent. Which, if you consider would be in the range of 50€ to 60€, probably is not a bad deal for expert help.
Getting Back To Nice
Tagliatelle al Ragu, Salad and Wine – YUM!
After all of this, it was time for lunch. We found a nice little place right at the beginning of the village called “Mets Vins Chics“. They serve all kinds of lunch fare and wine at reasonable prices. If you do come to this area, you may notice how closely related the food in this area is to the neighboring Italian cities and towns. With the historical fluidity of borders and commerce, it should not be a surprise and it sure tastes good!
Once finished with our meal, our daughter Ericka wanted to check out Fragonard as well. They have somewhat of a larger showroom but unfortunately no longer mixed nor sold the fragrance she was interested in. So we left there, kind of disappointed.
The Nietzsche Footpath – Treacherous, like his Philosophy
It was time to head back and I decided to take the Nietzsche Footpath and the SNCF train back to Nice. The path is very steep and one must take care to make sure you do not slip and fall. It is also very long and will take you approximately 40 to 45 minutes just to descend. Then, there is another 5 minutes or so to walk to the train station along the road where the path exits.
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Èze-Village is a very nice, interesting place to visit. There is not much there save the view and the garden, so I would suggest bundling it with something else, like the Perfumery, to make it worth the time and expense.
Nice and the Côte d’Azur conjure up thoughts of beautiful weather, money (rich people) and vacation. It is a destination that many people have on their bucket-list of things to do; if not for the casinos, then at least for the sun and crystal clear light-blue sea. It was after some trepidation on my part and a pause in our other travels, that we decided to go to Nice for another short holiday.
Nice – Front of Main Train Station
Nice – Inside Main Train Station
Whenever possible, we travel via train since it is more cost-effective and has one of the better, if not the best, Eco-friendly footprints. The trip took us surprisingly just over five hours from Turin, most likely due to a mixture of train schedules and the routes involved. However, one of the advantages of being retired is time is the one commodity you have in abundance.
Nice Airport – Looking at Welcome Sign
Nice Airport – Arrivals
Nice Airport – Ericka Waiting To Board Tram
Since this was not actually a last-minute decision, we were still able to use a modest amount of planning and coordinated the trip with our daughter Ericka, who joined us the following day. She flew in and using the Côte d’Azur(I must say) fabulous metro/tram system which now links up with both terminals at the airport, we were able to meet her at Terminal 1.
Tram Line on Avenue Jean Médicin
Our choice of Nice was due to many factors. First the train station is large and one can travel to many different places taking advantage of both regional and special coastal trains. It also happened to be in the center of the Côte d’Azur, the famous vacation coast which attracts visitors and tourists from both France, Europe and beyond. Nice has been expanding their metro and transportation system and it seems to be paying off; it did for us. If you are staying for any amount of time you can buy a 10-trip (not day) transportation pass for 10€ (that’s a 30 percent discount or 4 free trips). Though we did not use them all, we used enough to do better than break even. We then handed them to someone at the hotel, so they could use the rest.
Our Hotel
We stayed at the Hotel Belle Meunière, a short two-minute walk from the main train station and our domicile for our travels. Though our room was not much to look at per se, one has to understand the hotel is actually under renovations. The outside of the hotel is very well-kept and seems to be an old historical landmark of some kind, since they have obviously tried to keep it sound. The inside however, is somewhat confused but manageable. It is obviously a converted manor house. It is therefore, not really a hotel but more of a hotel/pension fusion, if there is such a thing.
Hotel Belle Meuniere – A Niçois Experience
We found the price and location with respect to the train station very acceptable and there are also very good Niçoisrestaurants nearby. However, the location also worked somewhat against it as well, since areas around train stations tend to be a bit dirty. This is also true of the area around this hotel. If you are really into the beach, you might prefer something closer to the shore, though they will be more expensive. Though I would not give it any Michelin stars, it was manageable and the staff go out of their way to make you comfortable.
Nice From Inside and Above
Notre-Dame de Nice
Nice is a typical European city. It has a core or old city surrounded by many environs or suburbs that have their own distinct look and things to see. One of the more prominent sights along the main Avenue Jean-Médecin in Nice, is the Roman Catholic Gothic basilica called Notre-Dame de Nice. Like Notre-Dame de Paris, it also has a large rose window on its front but is much younger, smaller and is not a cathedral (it is not even designed after the one in Paris). It will at least make you stop and take a photograph.
Castle Hill
Another must see is the overlook of the city from the Colline du Château or Castle Hill. It is a modest walk from the old city up the hill to the East, before you are able to enjoy the vista.
Ericka and Patti – Nice Overlook
Erick – Nice Overlook
There are several points along the way up to stop and enjoy the view of Nice.
Patti and Ericka – Enjoying The Waterfall After The Climb Up The Hill
There are also other things to see on Castle Hill, including a waterfall and an overlook of Villefranche-sur-Mer, the next town over, though somewhat obscured by trees on the walk down.
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The above are a collection of our initial photographs as we walked through the city.
We also have favourite place in France, called Charlot Premier in Nice, which does excellent oysters.
Also known as the Queen’s Villa, the villa is situated in the Borgo Po district of Turin. Though the villa was first constructed in the 16th century by Cardinal Maurice of Savoy, it did not come into fame until the Savoy family ascended to the throne in 1713. Since the Duchess Anne d’Orléans, who was married to Duke Victor Amadeus II still owned the premises it automatically became known as the “Villa della Regina“, or the Queen’s Villa.
Strada Comunale Santa Margherita – Villa dell Regina Entrance
Strada Comunale Santa Margherita – Villa dell Regina Gate
Strada Comunale Santa Margherita – Villa dell Regina
Strada Comunale Santa Margherita – A long but gentle walk
Borgo Po – Turin does NOT use chemicals to fight Weeds
Villa della Regina – Pond
Villa della Regina – Reflecting Pond and Foutain
Villa della Regina – Tickets for Two
Wines produced at the Villa
Corso Fiume – Villa Crimea
Corso Fiume – After Crossing the Umberto I Bridge – Residential Neighborhood
More History and Tourism
In 1865 the Villa became a boarding school for girls until World War II, when it was later bombed and received extensive damage. Finally in 1994 the Tourism ministry or Turin finally obtained it and started restoring the structure which had badly fallen into disrepair. It was finally opened in 2006 to the public for tourism, but even now shows signs of decline with the difficulties of the Italian economy.
Examples of Landscaping Issues and Disrepair at the Villa
The Villa Inside
After purchasing a ticket which costs €5/person (unless you were lucky enough to enter on a free day, check the Turin website for dates), the Villa’s main hall is a real wonder and in very good condition.
Villa dell Regina – Main Hall Right – Apollo and Daphne
Villa dell Regina – Main Hall Left – Adoni’s Death
Villa dell Regina – Main Hall Windows toward Turin
Villa dell Regina – Hallway to King’s Rooms
The King’s Rooms
The visitor next sees the rooms the King would have when he was at the Villa. All of the floors in the Villa are parquet, with few exceptions.
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There is a short hallway with another beautiful ceiling before entering the Queen’s rooms.
Villa dell Regina – Hallway to Queen’s Rooms
Villa dell Regina – Main Hall
The Queen’s Rooms
The rooms that consist of those for the queen are unfortunately not in as good a condition as those of the King’s. This is most likely due to the extent of the damage from the bombing during the war to be more concentrated in this area.
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Once you have finished the Queen’s rooms you find yourself again back at the Main Hall and your way out to the grounds, which at one point in their lifetime must have been beautiful, all the hallmarks are there.
The Grounds
Though poorly kept and in some cases falling still further into disrepair and eventual collapse, they are nonetheless impressive. The fountains though still functioning stand their vigil over empty pools of water that once might have kept chinese carp or goldfish but now just harbor algae.
Villa della Regina – Roman Style Garden with Statues and Fountain
Finally, more photographs of the grounds and surrounding area.
