Korčula, Croatia – Island Escape

After Split, Croatia we had planned on taking a detour to one of the islands for a bit of an escape. We knew it was going to be crowded, since tourist season was upon us and we thought it would be great to also break up the distance between Split and Dubrovnik. Our choice was the town of Korčula, on the eponymous island in Croatia.

Korčula

Is a small medieval walled town that was protected from the outside by walls. It was, in fact, not until later in the nineteenth century that citizen were allowed to build outside the walls.

The Town from Galerija Maksimilijana Vanka Viewpoint – Korčula, Croatia

The main entrance to the town is the large main gate. Today it is left open, but before modern times it was closed at night. There is a street that encircles the entire town and is very nice for a slow walk, while you enjoy the scenery and hopefully the weather.

Main Entrance to Town – Korčula, Croatia

Small Canon used for defense – Main Entrance – Korčula, Croatia

The town is laid out in a herringbone or pinnate leaf pattern. This allows for better air circulation, while at the same time offering protection against the most violent of storms that come in from the sea.

Ancient Drapery Pedastels – Korčula, Croatia

An old bricked up entrance – Korčula, Croatia

Patti by alley filled with stairs – Korčula, Croatia

Croatian Flag and side alley – Korčula, Croatia

The name of the island and town is derived from an Illyrian-Greek word that means the rock passage. It has been inhabited for at least a few thousand years. The Greeks were frequent visitor in the 6th B.C.E., and perhaps arrived on the island even before that time. The original population were colonies of Illyrians, which have left their telltale marks throughout the island. From the early 3rd B.C.E. the Romans knew of the island and subdued it later for five hundred years. Some of the Latin that was taught in those days, still lingers in the speech of the town’s peoples.

GettingThere

To get there, take the ferry service that runs between Split and Dubrovnik. There are several lines, unfortunately our original booking through Kapetan Luka was cancelled due to equipment issues, so we had to rebook on TPLine. It was fully booked, but very comfortable. Get in line early, because seats usually go fast.

Leaving Split – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia

Our boat trip – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia

Another small town – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia

A Word About Ferries

Just an opinion of course, but having been on both ferry lines, I would prefer the TPLine. On TPLine, your luggage is stowed indoors with you and not outside, as with Kapetan Luka line. The latter is fine otherwise, but in the event of bad weather, it appears your luggage would be soaked upon arrival to your destination. I also found their boats to have a bit more room to get around. I felt a bit cramped on the Luka line.

Departing Split – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia

Patti on board – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia

Our Hotel

The Aminess Liburna

A large modern hotel on the adjacent pennisula to the town. From here it was about a fifteen to twenty minute walk to inside the town walls. However, the hotel has all the amenities, including breakfast. They also have a pool and a small seaside area for swimming. The deluxe rooms are typical and met most of our requirements.

Our hotel across the inlet – Aminess Liburna Hotel – Korčula, Croatia

Aminess Liburna Hotel – Korčula, Croatia

Path from our hotel to town – Korčula, Croatia

Marco Polo House

Ostensibly Marco Polo lived in the house for some time during his travels. Which travels, the museum does not elaborate on. They only conjecture that Marco was there, based on the family owning property and having other interests on the island.

Alley entrance – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Interior – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Weapons Display – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Battles – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

The Polos were based in Venice and the city and its residents had a strong influence on the island and the town.

Old Maps Asia – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Old Maps of Europe – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Marco Polo’s adventures and artifacts are explained and exhibited in some detail. Enough at least to enjoy the small museum that they have made in his honor.

Upsidedowm Map of Europe, Middle East, Part of Africa, Asia and India subcontinent – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Upper Left Corner Details – Continents Map – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Upper Right Corner Details – Continents Map – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Lower Left Corner Details – Continents Map – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Lower Right Corner Details – Continents Map – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Old Map of Europe and Asia – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Old Book – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Museum learning aids – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Old Books he owned – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Map of Known World – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

His long twenty-seven years journey into Asia is the central theme. Some of the artifacts are copies or replicas, but the genuine one are very interesting.

Model of a 13th Century Axe – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Model of a 13th Century Sword – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Tapestry – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Indian Artifact – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Chinese Necklace and Copper Burner, an Indian Spice Container – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Of special interest were the model boat, a replica used in his travels, as well as assorted maps and other forms of reference used during the adventure.

Ship Model – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

One special artifact is that of the Tablet that Kubla Khan had given his company for safe travel. It essentially gave them Carte Blanche through the countryside. Anyone interfering with them, risked Khan and his army descending upon them.

Khan’s Golden Tablet – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

One of the last things to visit is the house tower, which commands a modest view of the surrounding area.

Entrance to Tower – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Tower Views – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Churches and Cathedrals

There are a few churches in the town and one cathedral of importance. The people who live in the town are very religious and masses are well attended on the weekends, especially during holidays.

Front – Church of Saint Peter – Korčula, Croatia

Church of Saint Michael

Modest from the outside and equally so inside, this church is emblematic of its worshippers’ devotion to their faith. The church’s centerpiece is Christ on the Cross.

Interior – Church of Saint Michael – Korčula, Croatia

Saint Mark’s Cathedral

A remarkably simple example of a Romanesque-Gothic Cathedral on the small island, but no less important is Saint Mark’s. It is central to the town and is noteworthy. Visitors are required to wear respectful clothing, no shorts or inappropriate clothing is allowed, so dress accordingly.

Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia

Entrance Details – Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia

Nave – Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia

The cathedral has some very interesting eavestroughs and other architectural tidbits that any visitor, with some time on their hands, may explore. The interior layout is typical, even though a bit simple.

Eavestroughs – Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia

Attached to the left of the cathedral is a side chapel, which is a bit more elaborate than that of the cathedral itself.

Side Chapel – Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia

Chapel of Our Lady of the Snows

A small votive chapel directly after you enter the main gate and to the left. The Chapel of Our Lady of the Snows also commemorate Saint Bartholomew and the Battle of 1483. According to someone who transcribed the events of the battle between the Venetians and Genoese, Marco Polo was captured during the battle and later imprisoned.^[1]It is actually unclear if he was captured at this battle, or a previous minor engagement at Laiazzo.

Restaurants

In some parts of Croatia, and especially Korčula, most of the restaurants go by Konoba. This is to denote thier Dalmation or Istrian heritage and may they take the form of cellar-like tavern or other small place that serves authentic local food. Most of them we found to be reasonably priced.

Konoba Riva

A new restaurant that open just before we arrived which offers a very delicious menu with food to match it. We ate here three times, twice for lunch and once for dinner and were never dissappointed. The food was never salty or overcooked and when it arrived, it was still hot! The service was also extremely attentive, no doubt trying to assert some sway over any reviews they would receive. It didn’t matter, it ended up as our go to place.

Minestrone Soup – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Mixed Salad with Grilled Chicken – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Pasta with Chicken – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Spaghetti Aglio e Olio – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Pannacotta with Apricot Jam – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Kruskovac Apéritif – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Sijivovica Apéritif – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Travarica Apéritif – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Konoba Biankura

Konoba Biankura is located about three streets down in the old town on the right. It offers a wide variety of food, along with pasta and some meat dishes. The fish soup is amazing and can be commended highly.

Panncotta with honey – Konoba Biankura – Korčula, Croatia

Konoba Aterina

The Konoba Aterina is a restaurant in the old town. It offers a view somewhat of the sun setting and has covered terrace outside seating. The food is good, the majority of which is seafood, so a good place to scratch your fishy itch. We ordered the Sea Bass, traditionally cooked, and were not dissappointed.

Vegetable Soup – Konoba Aterina – Korčula, Croatia

Grilled Sea Bass and Vegetables – Konoba Aterina – Korčula, Croatia

References[+]

References
↑1	It is actually unclear if he was captured at this battle, or a previous minor engagement at Laiazzo.

7 June, 20267 June, 2026

Split, Croatia – Roman Repose

About a hundred and sixty miles from Zagreb and a hundred and ten miles from the Italian coast is Croatia‘s second largest city, Split. Today it is a tourist hot-spot and destination for cruise ships, whereas two thousand years ago it was Emporer Diocletian’s retirement home and where he would repose in his declining years.

Split

The old city center of Split is reminiscent of towns on the Ligurian coast of Italy, covered in bright limestone and other materials mined from quarries in the area. When the sun beats off of it, it can be blinding and almost uncomfortable hot.

Many of the streets in town are very narrow and cannot support vehicular traffic, so walking the old town should not be an issue. Having said that, it does not discourage mopeds, so stay alert while walking in any case.

Narrow Street – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Trogirska Street – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Let Me Pass Street – Very Narrow Street – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

The city is in the province of Dalmatia, which has a very distinctive culinary culture and influence on the food. There are heavy Italian and Roman influences in the food, construction and city layout, with the central building in the area being in and around Diocletian’s Palace.

Tomislava Street – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Main Shopping Street – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Fountain and Cup – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Two other noteworthy points of interest are the Republic Square and the People’s Square. One is near the water, while the other is in the middle of the city.

Republic Square – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Peoples Square – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Cyprian’s Palace – Peoples Square – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Clock Tower – Peoples Square – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

There is also a very active port area and a large number of berths for ferries, which frequent the city daily.

The city also has a large sign for tourist, which appears to be customary in some southern European cities. Here you can take a photograph to remember your adventure.

Getting There

From Zagreb, we took Croatian Airlines which operates flights to Split that continue onto Rome, Italy. At forty minutes it is the fastest way to get to the coast. From the airport to the old town of Split will take on average an additional thirty to forty minutes, depending on the time of day and whether there is any construction.

Split from our Lyft ride – Split, Croatia

Diocletian’s Palace

The Diocletian Palace is a large complex just off center of the old town of Split. It was to retirement home of the Roman Emperor Diocletian and was built some time around the third century CE. It is the reason that Split exists and is the ultimate destination here for those interested in Roman history.

Roman Arches and Fortress Wall – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Triklinij – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Side Street – Diocletians Palace – Split, Croatia

Another entrance – Diocletians Palace – Split, Croatia

There is an excellent example of fifth century Roman mosaic tiles behind the cathedral which should draw your attention.

Mosaic Floors – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

The Cellars

Some of the more interesting points of the complex are the cellars, where much of the work maintaining the palace was performed. These consist of a free part that provides access to the palace via the Brass Gate.

Free Cellars – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

There is a more extensive part of the cellars that can be seen for a nominal cost.

Tickets For Two – Cellars – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Cellars – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

What It Looked Like – Cellars – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Split Peninsula – Cellars – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Well – Cellars – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Diorama – Cellars – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

The Temple Of Jupiter

The Temple of Jupiter is in line with Saint Domnius Cathedral and its Tower, but on the other side of the Peristil. It is rather small and contains a statue of Jupiter, along with other objects on note. There is also what appears to be a font in the center of the room.

Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Tomb – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Inscription – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Entrance – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Jupiter – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Font – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Main Room – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Ceiling – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Relief – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Colum – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Iron Gate – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

The Vestibule

The Vestibule and the Rotunda are major open-air sites to see near the cathedral. The entrance to the vestibule contains two ancillary lintels of note, with inscriptions atop each.

Left Lintel – Vestibule – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Right Lintel – Vestibule – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Arch leading into the Vestibule – Diocletians Palace – Split, Croatia

The Rotunda is a large area with a round ceiling and oculus that is very reminiscent of the Pantheon in Rome.

Vestibule – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Diocletian’s Fortress

The outside fortress walls that protected the palace had four large towers on each corner, for which only few still remain.

Southwestern Tower – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Venetian Tower – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

The Gates And Entrances

There are several gates to the palace, some of which are not so prominent as the others and a few are no longer functional. The Golden Gate is the main gate of the palace, though one could make an argument that the Brass Gate was more important since it faces the sea.

Golden Gate – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

The Silver Gate faces the east and along with the Golden Gate is one of the better preserved gates to the palace. The Iron Gate is buried within the walls and narrow alleyways of Split to the west. Transformed after the emperor left and the palace fell into disrepair.

Silver Gate – Diocletians Palace – Split, Croatia

Gradski Park

Just outside the Golden Gate is Gradski Park. Here you will find a statue from Gregory Ninskomu, a fountain and Bell Tower and Chapel of the Holy Arnir.

Gregory Ninskomu Statue – Split, Croatia

Fountain – Park Josipa Jurja Strossmayer – Split, Croatia

Tower of Chapel of Holy Arnir and Gregory Ninskomu Statue – Split, Croatia

Saint Domnius Cathedral

One of the main buildings within the palace is Saint Domnius Cathedral. Along with its bell tower it commands attention next to the vestibule.

Saint Domnius Bell Tower – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Colums – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Entrance – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Altar – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Side Altar – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Ceiling – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Doors – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Tomb – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Porch Ceiling – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Pulpit – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

The Crypt

The cathedral also houses a small crypt underneath it. However, today it is used for religious art, rather than storing of bodies and bones.

Patti – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Saint Lucia – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Main Room – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Well – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Artwork – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Jesus as Eucharist – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Tranfiguration of Christ on Mount Tabor – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Kingdom of God Proclaimed – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Wedding at Cana in Galilee – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Baptism of Jesus – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Marjan Hill

One the western part of the city is the Marjan Hill. Known locally as a hiking destination, is has several hundred steps to climb, before one gets a commanding view of the countryside.

Solta Island – Marjan Hill – Split, Croatia

Church of Saint Nicholas

Atop the hill is the small chapel and Church of Saint Nicholas, first commissioned in 1219. It has a small Gothic-Renaissance bell tower and is still outfitted and used for mass, especially on December 6th. The Croatians are a deeply religious catholic people and you will often find attendance very high if you were to peak your head in during a Sunday Mass.

Entrance – Church of Saint Nicholas and Bell – Marjan Hill – Split, Croatia

Inside – Church of Saint Nicholas and Bell – Marjan Hill – Split, Croatia

Restaurants

Cicibela Restaurant

Very near our place of hotel was the Cicebela restaurant. A very good restaurant that serves traditional food, albeit at a higher price. Everything we ordered was very tasty and the service was equally responsive.

Soup – Cicibela Restaurant – Split, Croatia

Waiting – Cicibela Restaurant – Split, Croatia

Pasticada – Cicibela Restaurant – Split, Croatia

Tuna Steak – Cicibela Restaurant – Split, Croatia

Panacota and Orahovac – Cicibela Restaurant – Split, Croatia

Buffet Fife

Located near the waterfront is the Buffet Fife, a local restaurant that is similar to a trattoria in Italy. Here you will find and enjoy many Croatian home-cooked dishes. We ordered the stuffed cabbage rolls in sauce with mashed potatoes, which are very similar to the Polish variety of Gołąbkis, or Galumpkis. They were delicious and come well commended.

Patti waiting for dinner – Buffet Fife – Split, Croatia

Stuffed Cabbage and Mashed Potatoes with Salad – Buffet Fife – Split, Croatia

Focaccia Antico Spalato

On the more modest side of things is the Focacciaria, Antico Spalato. A veritable hole-in-the-wall, we visited it while trying to stay out of the pouring rain.

Lunch – Focaccia Antio Spalato – Split, Croatia

Panini Sandwich – Focaccia Antio Spalato – Split, Croatia

3 June, 20263 June, 2026

Zagreb, Croatia – Golden Bull

Zagreb, the etymology of the name even today is disputed, is actually composed of two historic city centers, Kaptol to the east and Gradec to the west. Today, it consists of an even larger metropolitan area, where more than a million people live.

Zagreb

On a normal day, the historic parts of the city are filled with tourists and sightseers, however the weekends can be quieter. We arrived on a Sunday and found it strangely quiescent.

The Old Part of Town – Gradec – Zagreb, Croatia

Kaptol was the first to be formally recognized as pertaining to Zagreb, followed by Gradec some time later through King Bela IV edict of the Golden Bull. They both sit upon their corresponding hills and lay alongside one another, being separated somewhat by a slight depression where the Тkalčićeva ulica street runs.

Тkalčićeva ulica Street – Zagreb, Croatia

Getting There

Coming from Turin we flew with Air Dolomiti to Munich and then later on to Zagreb, two short one hour flights which took us about five hours to complete with layover.

The Zagrab airport is small, perhaps smaller than most would expect. It took us approximately an hour to get our luggage, once we had left the plane. So do not expect the speedy luggage service you may enjoy elsewhere, here, things definitely move slower. In such cases, it might be good to have air-tags, just to keep an eye on where your luggage is, before getting alarmed. We got them as a gift and they really came in handy.

Of course you can also come by car, but from what we can see, parking is a problem and quite expensive. Train, is also an option, though we ruled it out due to scheduling issues and other considerations.

Lower Zagreb

We stayed in Lower Zagreb very close to Kaptol and the main square. From here we were able to visit most parts of the old city within a ten to fifteen minute walk.

Zrinjevac Park

Actually many parks in tandem and tied together by several buildings and monuments. It is actually a nice place to take a stroll and enjoy the salubrious spring weather.

Patti – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia

Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia

Science Musuem – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia

Strossmayer Stature – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia

Art Pavilion – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia

King Tomislav Monument – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia

Gradec

To the west of Kaptol and across small depression represented by Pavla Radica, where you will find many bars, cafes and some restaurants, is Gradec, also referred to as Grič.

The Stone Gate

One of the entrances to Gradec is via the Stone Gate. It is adorned by a statue of Saint George before you get there and actually contains a small chapel.

Saint George Statue – Pavla Radica Street – Zagreb, Croatia

Saint George Statue and Stone Gate – Pavla Radica Street – Zagreb, Croatia

Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary – Zagreb, Croatia

Saint Mark’s Church

The most prominent structure here is Saint Mark’s Church. Noted for its polychrome roof tiles depicting the coats of arms of Croatia and Zagreb, it is a beautiful to see. Again, like other structures in the area, it too was damaged by the earthquake and was still undergoing renovations at the time of our visit. Therefore, we were unable to go inside or even get up close to its facade.

Observation Tower

The Observation Tower, or Lotrščak Tower, can be found near Saint Mark’s Church in Gradec. It is right next to the Furnicular station to Lower Zagreb and can be ascended for a modest fee. We chose not to, since the weather was terrible and it was raining and overcast.

Overview of Lower City and Furnicular – Zagreb, Croatia

Tunel Grič

Built during World War II as a bomb shelter, the Tunel Grič, or Gric Tunnel is commonly used as a pedestrian path now, even though several sections of it are in disrepair and no longer used. The main section spans about a quarter of a mile an connects western side of Gradec with the eastern side on Pavla Radica street.

Entrance to Gric Tunnel – Strossmayer Park – Zagreb, Croatia

Kaptol

Even today it appears that most of the real estate here is consigned to the Roman Catholic clergy in one form or another. It is here where you will find the Cathedral of Zagreb, the seat of arch bishop.

Monument to Kumica Barica – Zagreb, Croatia

Dome of the Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary – Zagreb, Croatia

Walking the Kaptol street is very relaxing. All of Zagreb is rather well cared for in one repect or another, but this area even more so with its beautiful buildings and well maintained park, the Ribnjak Park.

Small Catholic Chapel – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia

Zagreb Cathedral

An enormous and the most prominent building in Kaptol is the Zagreb Cathedral. It is the second tallest building in Croatia and is surrounded by the Kaptol Fortress. Unfortunately at this writing, it was undergoing heavy reconstruction after the 2020 Earthquake., where most of its facade and interior are shrouded in construction scaffolding and screens.

Coming up to the Cathedral – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia

Zagreb Cathedral – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia

The southern spire had snapped off during the quake and crashed onto one of the adjacent buildings. The northern spire was later removed because it was leaning and can now be seen alongside the cathedral, waiting for its eventual return.

Bells – Zagreb Cathedral – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia

Nave – Zagreb Cathedral – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia

Restaurants

Gostionica Ficlek

The restaurant Gostionica Ficlek is a good place to enjoy the gastronomy of Croatia and Zagreb. It has a fine collection of tasty treats on its menu that can be tried for a more than reasonable price. The traditional chicken soup tastes like a typical chicken soup, until you notice the dumplings, which just puts it over the top.

Entrance – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Menu – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Patti – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Ajngmahtec – Traditional Chicken Soup with Dumplings – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Zagrebački odreyak – Breaded Pork stuffed with Ham and Cheese, Potato Salad – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Cruffin with Vanilla Creme and Brioche with Almonds – Korica Cafe – Zagreb, Croatia

Patti’s Turkey with mlinci – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Heritage Street Food

For lunch, Patti selected a tiny establishment on Petrinjska street, known as Heritage Street Food. Their concentration is on Paninis and Focaccia style sandwiches, which when combined with other delectable sides, create a truly enjoyable and tasty little adventure for your palate.

Bread with spicy olive oil – Heritage Street Food Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Istrian Pearl Sandwich – Heritage Street Food Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

House Sauvignon Blanc with Gligora Cheese platter with Walnuts, Fig Jam and Figs – Heritage Street Food Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Puslek Honey Herbal Liqueur – Heritage Street Food Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Caffe & Bar Jupi

The day that we left Zagreb we visited a small cafe for breakfast called Caffe & Bar Jupi. Patti ordered the pancakes with fruit and I had the scrambled eggs. Both were delicious and hit the spot on a busy and somewhat chilly morning.

Patti – Cafe and Bar Jupi – Zagreb, Croatia

Scrambled eggs, Hüttenkäse and Cucumber salad – Cafe and Bar Jupi – Zagreb, Croatia

Pancakes with Berries – Cafe and Bar Jupi – Zagreb, Croatia

28 April, 20268 May, 2026

Reggio Calabria, Italy – Calabrian Classic

If anyone travels all the way down to the very tip of Italy they will discover Reggio Calabria, a Calabrian city with all the classic touches of Southern Italy. Offshore, you will see the ever present Mount Etna smoking in the background.

Getting There And Back

To get there we took TrennItalia’s Calabrian Regional train service from Tropea. Approximately a two hour train ride that eventually hugs the coast and offers a preview of the Italian island of Sicily.

Our First View of Sicily – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy

Messina Ferry – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy

Coming Into Reggio Calabria – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy

To get back we used Reggio Calabria’s airport, where RyanAir offers direct service to Turin’s Caselle Airport. Another trip just short of two hours which also hugs the coast of Italy and also offers views of Sardinia and other prominent points of interest from the air.

Reggio Calabria

The official name for the city is Reggio Calabria, but it is also known by its traditional names of Reggio di Calabria and just plain Reggio. The city was almost completely destroyed by an earthquake in the beginning of the last century and its more hopefully robust version has new amenities the former city lacked.

Large Banyan Trees – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Corso Garibaldi – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Piazza d’Italia – Reggio Calabria, Italy

If you love food, visit the shops along Corso Garibaldi. Many have interesting and local foods that you can bring home with you to enjoy, while you reminisce about your time in Calabria.

Calabrian Volcanic Spread – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Just up from our hotel and on the transformed via Giudecca street, is the eponymous stairway.

Giudecca Stairway – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Torrine Hotel

On the edge of the older and more vibrant part of the city, the Torrine Hotel is about four blocks from the waterfront. This is just as well, since it provides a quieter place to stay, with the exception being rush hour; it is located on a busy one-way thoroughfare through the city that buses frequent. Our room came with breakfast, a mixture of continental with some warm food thrown in.

Breakfast – Hotel Torrione – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Lungomare

The city has an extensive waterfront and a beautiful Lungomare to go with it. Near the end of it, in the urban park, you will find a nice long sign with the city’s name where you can take memorable photographs.

Beach – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Looking North – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Patti by City Sign – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Erick by City Sign – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

There are several points of interest along the boardwalk and a leisurely stroll along it will eventually bring you to all of them.

Abandoned Boats – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Wave Science Experiment – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Unknown Statue – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Somewhere near the end, down by the Roman Baths, Patti found the Big Bench. Apparently just installed, since it had no placename on it yet.

Patti finds the Big Bench – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Monumento Della Vittoria

From our hotel on Via Giula, almost directly down the street and on the waterfront and Lungomare, is the Monumento della Vittoria. It is a monument erected for Italy’s World War I victory and Victor Emmanuele III, which also has replica of the Statue of Athena Promachos inside it.

Arena del Stretto – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Roman Baths

Along the Lungomare is a site of old Roman baths from antiquity.

Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo

A large cathedral in the Piazza Duomo is the Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo. It was partially destroyed in the 1908 earthquake and rebuilt with a fusion of Romanesque and Gothic styles.

Bronze Doors – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Aisle – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Clerestory by Entry – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

The most interesting interior element of the cathedral is its ceiling. A timbered edifice that is remarqued and painted in a most interesting style, including pagan elements which appear to be handpainted.

Nave – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Nave’s Ceiling – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Crossing – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Urn – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Altar and Apse – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Organ in Transept – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Side Chapel – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Castello Aragonese

The Castle Aragonese no longer functions as a castle and has been renovated into something more useful, an art museum. Here for a small fee you are able to enjoy two galleries, one in each tower.

Tickets For Two – Entry to Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

North Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Patti on South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

North Tower Gallery

During our visit this gallery had an exhibit of modern paintings, most of which bright colors were used in an almost three dimensional approach.

Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

South Tower Gallery

While we were visiting this tower housed a collection of art known as Voci senza Volto, or Voices without a Face. An effective and provocitive collection of art, which appears part surreal and part dystopian and gets the viewer to think about signs of struggle, longing and hardship. This was the high point of the trip for me.

Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Being Neutral Serves No One – Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Villas And Palazzos

There are a few villas and palazzos of import in the city.

Villa Genoese Zerbi

A beautiful Venetian Art Nouveau style building on the Corso Emanuele is the villa of Genoese Zerbi. The original was destroyed in the great quake, but it was completely restored and now is one of the main charms of the city.

Palazzos Spinelli and Giuffrè

These two palazzos are side by side on the Corso Emanuele by the waterfront. Both appear to need some work. Palazzo Spinelli offers a great example of Calabrian architecture and Art Nouveau, or the liberty style.

Palazzo Spinelli – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Palazzo Giuffrè on the other hand offers a more mundane example, and is reminiscent of other buildings you will find in other large Italian cities.

Palazzo Giuffri – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Restaurants

Drogheria Culinaria

Using its former name for the grocery store the family used to own, it now serves food and drinks. It has a decent wine list, with several good varietals by the glass.

Inside – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

The food is also pretty good and you will definitely be able to find something to slake your appetite at this establishment.

Meatballs, Bread with Hot ‘Nduja and Wine – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Pat’s Spaghettone and Erick’s Tagliotella, both with Pork Ragú sauce – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante

One of the restaurants in the area that is highly recommended for local Calabrian dishes is the Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante. Located on via Reggio Campi and via II Dezembre, this small little restaurants attacts all the locals, so have your reservation in hand before leaving your hotel or place of stay.

Old Citroen – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Everything we tried had that home cooking taste without any loss to attention to detail. The Stufato is highly recommended and will melt in your mouth.

Menu – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Stufato di Maialino a bassa Temperatura with Coleslaw – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Cavatelli al Sugo di Capra – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Stufato di Maialino a bassa Temperatura – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

While we were there a local class was having their end of year party, so noise levels were through the roof. However, it was still enjoyable, especially watching the children eating all that food. Made me remember how hungry I used to be as a school kid.

End of Year Lunch for Children – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Fennel Aperativo with Expresso – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Tartufo – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

26 April, 20264 May, 2026

Tropea, Italy – Onions Anyone?

A destination for tourists and those interested in southern Italian cuisine, a stop in Tropea is almost a must. Known for their mixture of Sicilian and Greek influences, this part of Calabria is famous for the Tropean Red Onion, or Cipolla Rossa, one of the most tasty onions in the world. Onions anyone?

Tropean Onions – Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy

Getting There

In order to get to Tropea from Sapri we had to take the InterCity train from Sapri to Lamezia Terme Centrale and then connect. Unfortunately there is no logistical way around it. From there we took the local TrennItalia Regional train service to Tropea. This gave us a two and a half hour layover in Lamezia Terme, just enough time for lunch!

Lamezia Terme

Other than connecting with our other train, there was no other reason to visit this place, that is, other than lunch! With two and a half hours layover, we had plenty of time.

Restaurants

Europa da Albano

While we were on our InterCity train, I took the liberty of researching what our options were at Lamezia Terme. There weren’t many, but this restaurant and pizzeria caught my eye. It was a good choice. It was very busy inside and out and packed with local people, which is actually a good sign. Though we waited a bit to order, the wait was not bad in the end and our drinks and food arrived within customary promptness.

Spaghetti Bolognese – Europa da Albano Ristorante – Lamezia Terme, Italy

Tropea

One of the Canons – Piazza del Cannone – Tropea, Italy

Another Canon – Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy

Unknown to us, Tropea is a very busy tourist destination and we were there on a weekend, so the crowds we experienced were kind of unexpected, especially for this time of year.

Old Portal – Largo Galluppi – Tropea, Italy

17th Century Palazzo Marchesi Toraldo di Francia – Tropea, Italy

One of the main squares or piazzas close to our hotel, was the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, which our street ran right into, if you walked far enough. It has plenty of seating and a few monuments amongst the trees that have been planted to provide some shade against the sun.

Statua ai caduti di Tropea – Tropea, Italy

From there the main street in town is the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, which turns into Via Stazione as one gets closer to the train station.

Weekend Visitors – Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy

Hotel Colomba D’Oro

In Tropea we stayed at a hotel between the old part of town and the train station. It was just as well, our hotel in the city was the Hotel Colomba D’Oro on via Vittorio Veneto and it proved to be quiet and very comfortable. Our room came with a free morning continental breakfast, which included cooked eggs, pancetta and other warm offerings.

Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania

The twelfth century cathedral of Saint Mary of Romania is on Largo Duomo. The interior houses guilt altar for the Virgin of Romania and the Black Crucifix of 1600.

Chapel Dome – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Tomb by Entrance – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Organ and Altar of the Virgin of Romania – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Black Crucifix of 1600 – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Altar – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Statues – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Mother Mary and Jesus – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea

On the presque-isle of Tropea, which is actually to an island than a peninsula, stands the Sanctuary of Santa Maria. In order to get there one has to climb down from the city and ascend the stairs to the sanctuary, which opens around ten in the morning. It is best to get their at opening, because as we where leaving throngs of people appeared and the inside of the chapel is quite tiny.

View – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Facade and Entrance – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

The entrance to the sanctuary is adorned by three painted cielings.

Entrance – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

The interior is actually quite small and fitted out with pews, an altar and other accoutrements of catholicism. There is also a small shop where you can by a keepsake, postcards or other memorabilia.

Pews – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Confessional – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Nave – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Altar – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

There are a few vantage points in which to take photographs of the surrounding coast and beach, as well as the city of Tropea perched on its cliff.

Patti – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Erick – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Belvedere Gardens

An adjunct to the sanctuary are the Belvedere Gardens, access to which is controlled by entry to the chapel. The gardens command a view of the coastline and with perfect weather equally good photographs of it.

There are a variety of trees in the garden, as well as other bushes and flowering plants. In the day it must have been an amazing place to repose and enjoy the day.

Patti – Belvedere Gardens – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Via Lungo Mare

Though the walk along the Lungomare in Tropea is not the best we have been on, it is a nice walk that can bring you back up on the other side of Tropea. It also provides access to the sandy beach that enjoys protection from the wind and the waves and appears to be a favorite for the locals.

The Grotto – Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy

Nasocchio – The Apotropian Mask

Walking though the town a visitor will occasionally notice a mask that almost looks like a caricature. The closest analog we have in the States are caricature artists that frequent fairs and draw your face with a pencil in a very stylized way. Well, these masks are specific to the Calabrian culture.

Nasocchio and the Apotropian Masks – Totemic Masks against Evil Eye – Tropea, Italy

Nasocchio as he is called in Calabrian culture is a mask whose strange and unique glare is supposed to frighten away evil spirits, or what is commonly termed here the Malocchio or Evil Eye. The Italian Horn is meant to function in the same way, as are other strange artifacts in the culture. They are also meant to bring good fortune with their use.

Restaurants

Though we stayed here only for two nights, we still had occasion to visit three restaurants, all of which offered local Calabrian or Sicilian dishes.

Royal Bar

Not known for their food, we bought some drinks here for a quick rest. Nothing special, but the drinks were okay.

Campari Spritz and Granita – Royal Bar – Tropea, Italy

Diamante Rosso Tropea Ristorante

Here we had to try to local al ragu Arancini, or Sicilian breaded and conically shaped stuffed rice balls that are deep-fried. They were amazing, but usually always good, depending where you buy and how they are made. They can actually be purchased at most good local stores, cafes and some marketplaces and quickly heated up for a snack or meal.

Spaghetti alla Ragu – Diamante Rosso Tropea Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante

At Le Volpe we ordered a pasta dish each and dessert. The Filey was freshly made and topped with Tropean Onions, which are deliciously sweet, when they are sautéed until they have that glassy look.

Drink Menu – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Entrance – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Filey Fresh Pasta with Tropean Onions – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Spaghetti alla Ragu – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Dessert and Expresso – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Palazzo Teotino Ristorante

This restaurant is housed in an old palazzo and has both indoor and outdoor seating. We sat indoor right in the foyer next to the stairwell. We came here for the Tropean Onion soup that they advertize and found it very rich and tasty. We can also commend the fried onion floret, you get about four when you order them, so enough to share.

Entrance – Palazzo Teotino Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Dessert Menu – Palazzo Teotino Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Fried Onions – Palazzo Teotino Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Tropean Onion Soup – Palazzo Teotino Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

24 April, 20264 May, 2026

Sapri, Italy – Sunny Interlude

After our week in Naples where we took several days to visit the Amalfi Coast, we headed further south and stopped in Sapri. This was a scheduled visit to break up the trip and offer us a sunny interlude and a bit of repose before continuing to Tropea and later Reggio Calabria.

Sapri

Sapri is a small Italian town that is dominated by its stony beach. While there it was fairly vacant and deviod of other tourists. But there were plenty of restaurants open and we did enjoy that relaxing atmosphere and food.

The town itself is nothing to look at, but there are a few spots of interest, all of which were along the coastal area. Situated in the Gulf of Policastro it is surrounded by hills on all three sides. Luckily the train station is a short ten minute walk to and from the beach.

Getting There

There are several trains that run between Naples and Sapri. Perhaps the most convenient one will be the local, which stops at several points, but offers a bit more flexibility.

Patti – InterCity Train to Sapri – Naples, Italy

Forest Fire – InterCity Train to Sapri – Naples, Italy

Gulf of Policastro – InterCity Train to Sapri – Naples, Italy

Our Hotel

We stayed at the Hotel Pisacane, a small botique style hotel right on the beach. Unfortunately with the exception of breakfast, the restaurant is closed until tourist season which starts in June. Luckily, that did not turn into an issue for us.

Entrance – Hotel Pisacane – Sapri, Italy

Interesting Tree – Hotel Pisacane – Sapri, Italy

The Observatory

A very tall structure overlooking the Gulf of Policastro. It appears to celebrate eight renowned Italian scientist from astronomy, radio and meterology. It is located on the northern part of the beach, close to the Roman Villa Ruins.

Radio Greats Volta and Edison – Observatory Tower – Sapri, Italy

Radio – Volta and Edison – Observatory Tower – Sapri, Italy

Astronomy – Happi and Marconi – Observatory Tower – Sapri, Italy

Meterology – Copernicus and Newton – Observatory Tower – Sapri, Italy

Meterology – Galileo and Denza – Observatory Tower – Sapri, Italy

Roman Villa Ruins

Partially perserved under a canopy, the Roman Villa ruins are also north of town and located close to the observatory. The observatory also has some roman ruins near it that appear to be an old roman cellar or other structure.

Restaurants

While in Sapri we ate at two good restaurants that were noteworthy. Both of which were for a late lunch. We prefer most of the time to eat a heavier lunch and just skip dinner altogether.

Tintobrace Ristorante

An upscale restaurant that offers Calabrian food and fine selection of local wines by the glass. I would recommend the Cacio and Pepe spaghetti.

Insalata Mista with Onions – Tintobrace Ristorante – Sapri, Italy

Pasta with Tomatoes and Roasted Peppers – Tintobrace Ristorante – Sapri, Italy

Cacio and Pepe Spaghetti – Tintobrace Ristorante – Sapri, Italy

Ristorante Lucifero

The Ristorante Lucifero is also a pizzeria and has great pizza and pasta specials. It is located in town and not on the beach and is a bit difficult to spot. Therefore, they have added signs along the way to assist.

Entrance – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

Secondi and Sides – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

Choose your pasta type, choose your sauce – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

Veal with Mushrooms and Insalata Mista – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

Veal with Mushrooms – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

Pasta alla Ragu – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

Inside – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

I can commend the Aglianico from Paestum, Italy. Luigi Maffini’s Klèos comes in 50cl bottles and pairs perfectly with pasta and other tomato based dishes. I love Aglianico, it is a deep, clear, ruby wine with hints of plum, berry and dark fruit and is very tasty.

Kleos Wine – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

23 April, 202630 April, 2026

Amalfi Coast, Italy – Part Four

Amalfi Coast

On our second and final day to the Amalfi Coast, we were fortunate enough to enjoy a lemon experience near Tramonti. After our tour and lunch, we visited the other smaller Amalfi towns of Maiori, Minori and finally Cetara. There is not much to see in any of them and may be skipped. Except perhaps for Minori, which if you are looking for a beach spot along the coast, may offer the best option.

Getting There

On our second day we had arranged for the same tour guide that we had the previous day, Mind The Nap tours^[1]If you would like to find them, they are on one of the more frequently used social media applications.. Therefore, we took a hired vehicle from Naples to drive once again over the Anti Appenine mountains, via SP2a, to Tramonti and then to the other coastal towns. Returning along the coastal road via Vietri sul Mare and A3.

Tramonti

The term for this comune and town literaly means, in between the mountains. As we can attest with the photographs that we took, it definitely is in between the mountains. Our guide explained that the mixture of sun, heat and moisture is excellent for growing lemons in the area and some varieties of grapes.

Tramonti_01

Tramonti_02

Tramonti_03

Azienda Agricola Lemon Experience

Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle can provide a lemon experience. It is part guided tour, part lunch, with the most complete explanation of lemons you will probably ever experience.

Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Lemon Experience Tour

Our tour started out where are tour guide dropped us off, near the small abandoned church of Chiesa parrocchiale S. Elia Profeta in Ferriera, Tramonti.

The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy

Courtyard – The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy

Here our young guide explained in english all the geological, climate and other aspects of lemon growing, while pointing our specific areas between the mountains we were in.

The Surrounding Countryside – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Patti and Ruben – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Poppies – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Alessandro and Patti – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Then he took us to an old man named Ruben, definitely not an Italian name, who explained the horticulture of lemon trees. He showed us how he dries out different kind of seeds from fruit and vegetables that he has raised since he was a child with his father. He is seventy-four years old and does not look a day over sixty.

Ruben Explaining Lemons and Lemon Growing – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Blossoms, Unripe and Ripe Lemons All On The Same Tree – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Ruben Seed Drying, The Old Fashion Way – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Then we had a cute little photograph session, where he had a small chair strategically placed within his one lemon grove.

Patti, Erick and Ruben – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Patti, Erick and Alessandro – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Lemon Experience Luncheon

The luncheon was prepared by Ruben’s wife, Luisa. While she cooked inside their small garden house, Ruben prepared for us a Limoncello Spritz for each of us. It was delicious, as well as all the food that was served.

Ruben Making Limoncello Spritz – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Our Luncheon Feast – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Tramonti_15_AziendaAgricolaLeFormichelle_09_LemonExperience_25

Once we started drinking that, which was made using his own Limoncello, the food started coming out. First the appetizers, then more plentiful food and last a portion of Lasagna.

Real Baked Italian Lasagna With Pancetta – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Dolci – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Patti and Erick Enjoying Lunch – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Le Formichelle Limoncello – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Luisa And Pasqual In The Kitchen – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Their Brick Oven – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Maiori

The town of Maiori literally means “major”, after the river which now flows under the Corso Reginna, the river Reghinna Maiori. It has over the years been abbreviated to just Maiori. First founded by the Etruscans, it was later conquered by the Romans, like the rest of Italy.

Palazzo Mezzacapo

One specific spot to visit would be the Palazzo Mezzacapo, which is situated just off the Corso Reginna in town. It has an very interesting garden with underground vaulted wells.

Palazzo Mezzacapo – Gardens – Maiori, Italy

Minori

The same is true for the town of Minori, which literally means “minor”, after the river which now flows through it, the Reghinna Minori. The town’s name over the years been abbreviated to just Minori. It’s claim to fame is was used by the Roman high society as a seaside resort. It does have the longest and widest swath of beach on the coast.

Typical Small Town Alley – Minori, Italy

Basilica Saint Trofimena – Minori, Italy

Patti and Erick – Leaving Minori – Minori, Italy

Cetera

This small town was most likely named after the tuna fishermen that used to live there, as well as the fishmongers, or cetari. Its most important feature is one of the larger Amalfi Coast towers, which dot the coastline and were once used for protection by the Amalfi Federation, or Duchy of Amalfi.

Beach and Tower of Cetara – Cetara, Italy

Bronze Doors – Parochial Church of Saint Peter – Cetara, Italy

Entrance – Parochial Church of Saint Peter – Cetara, Italy

In Conclusion

We enjoyed our trip to the Amalfi Coast, overall it was a worthwhile experience. Though I would caution, for me, it did not live up to all of the hype and hyperbole surrounding it as a destination. With some of the towns entertaining cruise ships during the tourist season, it truly could turn into one of the more exasperating places to visit at the wrong time of the calendar year.

The Lemon Groves – The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy

In Between Mountains – The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy

However, we had amazing weather, perfect temperatures and manageable numbers of tourist. Though some places were not available to us at this time, since they open up in the later May and June timeframes for peak season; this was not a problem for us, since we are not big shoppers. In any case, we would commend a tour, or private tour if you can afford it. Removing the need to drive the winding roads, was alone a big plus for us.

Enjoy!

References[+]

References
↑1	If you would like to find them, they are on one of the more frequently used social media applications.

22 April, 202625 April, 2026

Amalfi Coast, Italy – Part Two

Amalfi Coast

Our second day to the Amalfi Coast, we learned that it is a jagged and very difficult area to navigate. Even with a car it is very windy and has only a few, very narrow roads. Cut out of rock, with the only barrier between you and a thousand foot drop, is an eighteen inch thick concrete wall. Most of the time you can take photographs over it from sitting in your vehicle, so aside from the danger, the road offers amazing views of the sea and the coast.

Getting There

There are not many options, aside from bus service and driving. Bus service seems to be a thriving business, but how they negotiate the roads is beyond me. We found it treacherous enough in our private tour van. If you are prone to motion sickness, take your medication before you leave and attempt the drive.

Mind The Nap

We used Mind The Nap private tours for a two day tour of several towns and a lemon experience. They picked up us up at our hotel in Chiaia and it took us over an hour to go through Naples and over the mountains to the coast.

Vico Equense – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy

The views on the first part of the drive were all of Naples and the surrounding area. However, once we ascended the steep mountains and crossed over the top, we entered Sorrento and the jagged coast of Amalfi.

Coastal Roads – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy

Lemon Stand – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy

Patti – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy

Mile Marker on State Road – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy

Tordigliano Belvedere – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy

Li Galli Isles – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy

Getting close to Positano – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy

Our tour driver Pasquale used SS163, so we approached Positano from the west. This allowed us to stop along the route several times to enjoy the coastline views.

Upper Positano – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy

Entering the town – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy

Ferry Dock and Bay – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy

Scooters – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy

Positano

Positano is a small, but beautiful little seaside town at the end of the Amalfi Coast. It is probably the most charming out of all the towns you will find on the coastline. The Strand, or Beach, is small by italian standard, but is most likely filled during the summer, even though it is mostly rocky and you probably have to use footwear.

High Cliffs – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy

Federica, our tour guide – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy

Map of the area – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy

Via del Mulini – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy

Map of Boat Routes – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy

Boardwalk – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy

Beach and upper Positano – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy

Coastline – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy

The town is full of stairways and tiny, narrow walkways. In the off-season it is fairly quiet and some of the establishments may not be open until June. Of course, like other places along this coast, you will find a lot of pottery and glassware.

Harlequin – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy

Pulcinella – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy

Santa Maria Assunta Church

One of the more prominent features in town is the church Santa Maria Assunta. It is one of the churches that has a Black Madonna from the thirteenth century Byzantine period.

Tower of Santa Maria Assunta Church – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy

Santa Maria Assunta Church – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy

Ferry Service

There is Ferry Service from Positano to other parts of the coast. This can be a very effecient way to visit the other towns along the coast, especially if you do not want to negotiate the treacherous roads.

Ferry to Amalfi – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy

Tickets For Two – Ferry to Amalfi – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy

We took the ferry from Positano to Amalfi, while our tour driver drove the route to the other location. It is highly recommended, since you get a perfect view of the coastline, the towns along and the mountains as a backdrop, at least on a clear day.

Restaurants

We didn’t really eat here, but we did stop for a drink. The view from many of the bars on the boardwalk is very relaxing and enjoyable.

Blu Bar

At the Blu Bar we just stopped for drinks, which euphemistically means that we had to use the bathroom. The drinks were fairly high-priced, but the facilities were very clean and well maintained. Not sure I would eat here though, the reviews were not very good.

21 April, 202629 April, 2026

Amalfi Coast, Italy – Part One

Amalfi Coast

On our first day to the Amalfi Coast, we were fortunate enough to be able to use the train service to get to Vietri sul Mare. Though in hindsight we probably should have used the longer, though more direct regional service, we opted instead for the faster option and had to change trains three times! Don’t make that mistake.

Vietri sul Mare

Vietri sul Mare is one of the small towns that comprise the Amalfi Coast. It is also known as the gateway to the coast, the rest are accessible only by car, bus or possibly boat, there is no continuing train service beyond Vietri sul Mare.

The Church’s tiled dome – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

The town is known for its glassware and ceramic factories and shops. Here you will find of plethora of shops selling all sorts of tiles, porcelain and other types of ceramics for use in the house and as decoration.

The old cermic factory – Ceramica Artistica Solimene Vincenzo – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

Villa Comunale Vietri sul Mare – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

The town is small enough to easily visit within a day. We only needed a few hours to cover the entire town, even walking down from the train station, which luckily has an elevator to bring you down most of the way. However, it should be noted, you will have to walk several hundred meters downhill to reach the beach and then up again. Like the other coastal towns, it is built on a very steep hillside.

Solerno Container Ship port – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

Long and narrow stairways – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

Getting There

To get to Vietri sul Mare, we had to take two trains from Naples. First, we took a regional train to Napoli Centrale, since the metro was not working. Then we took another train to Solerno. After about a ten minute layover, we took a regional train then to Vietri sul Mare.

For our return, we decided to take regional train back, since it offered a longer, but more direct option to the Piazza Amadeo station by our hotel, removing the need for us to get off and change trains.

Ceramic Tiled Houses

The town is full of tiled shops and buildings. Most of the shop owners tile their entrances as part decoration and part advertisement.

Ceramic souvenirs – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

Case Colorate

Perhaps the only house specifically known for its on-going construction and colorful use of tiles. Even when we were there, they seem to be embarking on some new expenditure, both inside and out.

Two Brothers

The Two Brothers are apparently from local legend, since when you finally see them, there are not two of them. In any case, it makes for an interesting backdrop for a photograph.

The Two Brothers – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

Patti – The Two Brothers – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

Erick – The Two Brothers – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

Restaurants

Since this was a day trip, we had time for lunch. Although we did have a few restaurants in mind, the following we found serendipitously.

Sole di Vietri

A small restaurant, comparable to a trattoria that serves very good food. Seating outside is limited and might be an issue during the summer months, when it is very busy.

Front – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

The menu offers daily specials and real home cooking, Italian style. You will find dishes derived from local cuisine, as well as some neopalitan and Italian favorites.

Cold Zucchini with Balsamic and Stuffed Peppers – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

Squid with tomatoes and potatoes – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

Pasta Fresca – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

Our Table and Menu – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

However, all meals should end in a nice glass of Limonchello, a favorite and local specialty.

Limonchello – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

9 April, 202611 April, 2026

Luino, Italy – Lacking Service

A popular tourist destination for the Swiss, Germans and Netherlanders is the small town of Luino on the northeast end of Lake Maggiore. The boat services on the lake are divided here for destinations north of it and south of it. From the south, especially from Stresa, it is difficult, if not impossible, to arrange a roundtrip to this town except on wednesdays. Even to get here by train is a three to five hour ordeal and roundtrips by rail or bus are all but out of the question. The town is truely lacking service from the southern end of the lake.

Luino

It seems a popular destination for people from the north, who are either staying in Switzerland or the nearby town of Cannobio. It is especially busy on Wednesdays, this is when the town holds its weekly market. ^[1]Proportedly the largest in Europe, but that is not possible. The one in Turin far eclipses it in size and weekly frequency, being open every day and not just the middle of the week.

Hemlock Near Church Of Saints Peter And Paul – Luino, Italy

At one time the town was heavily industrialized and there were many textile factories here, which accounted for the terrible pollution the lake had to endure for years after its demise. Luckily today, the lake has considerably cleaner water that in the previous century.

Getting There

From the north, the map shows all traffic by boat going through Cannobio. From the south, we took the boat from Stresa. From there we stopped a half dozen times before reaching our destination.

Navigation Map – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy

Stresa Boat Dock – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy

It should be noted, if you are traveling from the south and want to go further than Luino, you can, you just may have to change boats in Luino.

Beautiful Day – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy

Coming Into Our First Stop – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy

Arriving In Luino – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy

Our Boat – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy

From Stresa the trip is not inexpensive to Luino. For roundtrip tickets it cost us €15.20 per person^[2]or about $18 per person.

Tickets For Two – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy

Church of Saints Peter and Paul

A walk through the town and above most if, you will find the Church of Saints Peter and Paul. An unusual church which looks more like an administrative building than a church.

The inside does have some marble, but the rest of the nave and ceiling are painted in the style trompe-l’œil, giving the impression of relief where none really exists.

Nave – Church Of Saints Peter And Paul – Luino, Italy

Altar – Church Of Saints Peter And Paul – Luino, Italy

Restaurants

When we arrived in Luino, we only had three hours before our boat trip back, so we had to make good use of our time. Subsequently, we looked for a place to eat first and chose the Trattoria da Elia e Ugo.

Trattoria da Elia e Ugo

A small restaurant that caters to locals and tourists alike. They speak very good english, so there should be no problem with the language; they are even willing to look words up in order to make sure they have the correct word.

Patti – Trattoria da Elia e Ugo – Via Felice Cavallotti – Luino, Italy

The food is very good and well portioned. The caprese is rather large and good enough for two. The pasta dishes are also fairly large and well seasoned.

Caprese – Trattoria da Elia e Ugo – Via Felice Cavallotti – Luino, Italy

Pasta Special – Trattoria da Elia e Ugo – Via Felice Cavallotti – Luino, Italy

Aside from the popular marketplace on wednesdays and the odd historical monument, there really is not much to see in Lunio. Coming from the south, it can only be commended for the odd day trip with lunch as the primary reason for the expedition, since it is rather far away and the boat service only runs roundtrip on wednesday, so plan accordingly.

References[+]

References
↑1	Proportedly the largest in Europe, but that is not possible. The one in Turin far eclipses it in size and weekly frequency, being open every day and not just the middle of the week.
↑2	or about $18 per person