On the border of Hesse and Bavaria, in the Odenwald, is the town of Michelstadt. It’s curious, because its name contains within it a word that most english speaking people would think it should be a city, when in fact, the germans use the denotation for both town and city. Technically, it is considered a Kleinstadt, or small city, or what we call a town and should carry the stadt on the end of its name.
Michelstadt
The town is one of the oldest within what is called the inner Odenwald. There has been some sort of settlement there ever since the eighth century. Like other small towns of this nature, its layout has a certain lazy circle about it, indicating it was protected by some kind of fortification or wall. Evidence of this can be found on Kellerbergstraße, where part of the wall remains, and Mauerstraße where it can be seen in its former glory.
Stadtgäßchen and Stadtmauer – Mauerstraße – Michelstadt, Germany
To get to Michelstadt you will take either the 45 or 47 from the north or the south. On the north of town is a very large parking area which we used, conveniently located close to the town’s center.
Rte. 45 – Michelstadt, Germany
Bahnhofstraße – Michelstadt, Germany
Zum Grüner Baum – Großer Gasse – Michelstadt, Germany
Oberer Pfarrgasse – Michelstadt, Germany
Große Gasse – Michelstadt, Germany
Große Gasse – Michelstadt, Germany
Town Hall
The Town Hall, or Rathaus, is one of the more prominent buildings in the town. It stands a bit off-center in the Marktplatz and has an old press, a scale and other items associated with the buildings history in the open area underneath it.
Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany
Altes Rathaus – Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany
Altes Rathaus – Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany
Altes Rathaus – Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany
The Marktplatz contains a main foutain, which the town appears to decorate for holidays and other occasions.
Marktbrunnen – Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany
Marktbrunnen – Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany
Löwenhof – Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany
Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany
Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany
Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany
Michelstadt Fortress
The Michelstadt Fortress, or Burg Michelstadt, is probably more of a stronghold than any castle or fortress. Though it sits on a high wall with a moat, it is not as impressive as other german castles or fortresses. Today it houses a mill museum, which unfortunately was not open at the time of our visit.
Old Wall – Kellerbergstraße – Michelstadt, Germany
Diebsturm and Museum – Kellerbergstraße – Michelstadt, Germany
Diebsturm
The Diebsturm, or Thieves’ Tower, is part of and sits next to Burg Michelstadt. The sump or cellar of the tower was used as a prison starting sometime in the early fourteenth century. Prisoners were lowered down on a rope into the cellar to wait our their term. It is one of the more prominent features of the town.
Diebsturm and Museum – Kellerbergstraße – Michelstadt, Germany
Ericka and Patti – Diebsturm – Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany
Dr. I. E. Lichtigfeld Museum
This museum preserves the jewish past of the town, neatly preserved in the former Synagoge Michelstadt that was destroyed during the prelude to the second world war.
Dr. I. E. Lichtigfeld Museum – Mauerstraße – Michelstadt, Germany
Here one can get a sense of the small jewish population that used to inhabit the town, which also has numerous Stolpersteine[1]these are small brass memorials laid in the ground for jews and people who were killed, deported or driven to suizide commemorating the people of the town that lost their lives. They can be found throughout Germany and parts of Europe.
Dr. I. E. Lichtigfeld Museum – Mauerstraße – Michelstadt, Germany
Dr. I. E. Lichtigfeld Museum – Mauerstraße – Michelstadt, Germany
The museum also backs up to the old town wall and has a nice little park, where one can quietly sit and enjoy the weather.
Dr. I. E. Lichtigfeld Museum – Alter Stadtmauer – Michelstadt, Germany
Dr. I. E. Lichtigfeld Museum – Alter Stadtmauer – Michelstadt, Germany
Dr. I. E. Lichtigfeld Museum – Park – Michelstadt, Germany
Restaurants
Due to its size, there is not much to choose from, but there are a few restaurants in the Marktplatz. We chose a brewery close to the edge of town for lunch.
Michelstädter Rathausbräu
The Michelstädter Rathausbräu is a brewery and restaurant. It serves good food typical of the area. They don’t speak much english, so be prepared to whip out your translation guide or phone. However, the food is very good and they have their own brew on tap.
Rathausbräu Restaurant and Brewery – Mauerstraße – Michelstadt, Germany
Rathausbräu Restaurant and Brewery – Mauerstraße – Michelstadt, Germany
Rathausbräu Restaurant and Brewery – Mauerstraße – Michelstadt, Germany
The one unique feature this city has over others that we have visited are its Bächle, or small streams or runnels that network themselves through most city streets. Though in the past they were used for waste disposal and fire suppression, their contemporary revision is much cleaner and used more for fun than anything functional.
Freiburg im Breisgau
The city lays on the lower west side of the Schwarzwald, or the Black Forest. It is an odd mixture of contemporary and renovated old buildings, but appears to be very liveable. They have an active tram system and local buses, though the residents do appear to enjoy walking for the most part.
Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Old Freiburger Zeitung Building – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Zum Meijerhof Restaurant Building – Grünwälderstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Getting There
It is almost necessary to use the A5 to reach the city, though I imagine there might be other ways as well. We entered from the north, via Europaplatz, where we found adequate parking nearby. Europaplatz offers access to the tram system and might be a good starting point for those not wishing to walk.
Habsburgerstraße – Europaplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Friedrichring – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Kaiser-Josephstraße – Monument – Europaplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Kaiser-Josephstraße – Monument – Europaplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
The Bächle
The Bächle[1]the term is Bächlein in german are on most streets, at least in the older parts of the city. As a child, if you’ve ever had the occasion to play in a small stream or ditch, then you would just love Freiburg im Breisgau. They sure delight the city children. The city appears to be very child friendly and they even sell little boats on a string for children to play with in the Bächle.
Bächle – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Ericka, Vlad and Gabi – Bächle – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Bächle – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Schwabentor
The Schwabentor, or Swabian Gate, is the most recent gate to the city and is located on Herrenstraße, another street which has a Bächle.
Oberlindenbrunnen and Schwabentor – Herrenstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Herrenstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Freiburger Münster
The first bricks for the large gothik style Freiburger Münster, or Münster Unserer Lieben Frau, were laid around 1146. After several incantations as a small unassuming church through 1260, the church was redesigned with new importance in the late 1200s. It wasn’t until the late 1400s that it attained is final form one can see today.
Freiburger Münster Cathedral – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Freiburger Münster Cathedral – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Münsterplatz And Merchant’s Hall
The Münsterplatz is adjacent to the cathedral and includes several city buildings and businesses.
Münsterplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Münsterplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Münsterplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
One historic building that stands out in Münsterplatz is the Historisches Kaufhaus, or Merchant’s Hall. With its striking red exterior it is impossible to miss and the result of contemporary renovations, having suffered bomb damage and other design changes throughout the years. The facade today is adorned with replicas of Holy Roman Emperors and an Archduke, who did not become emperor because he died before his father and didn’t inherit all of his father’s titles.
Merchants Hall – Münsterplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Merchants Hall – Münsterplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Augustinerplatz
Though not much to look at the Augustinerplatz is where the museum and several other important government buildings are located, including for us ironically, the Italian Consulate.
Augustinerplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Augustinerplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Gerberau – Augustinerplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Museum – Augustinerplatz – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Connecting Augustinerplatz to Kaiser-Josephstraße is Gerberau street.
Gerberau – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Martinstor
A major gate in the city, aside from the swabian gate, or Scwabentor, is Martinstor. Located on Kaiser-Josephstraße, more or less in the center of town, the tower stands above all the other buildings. The street runs directly through the tower, like in many other walled cities in Germany and delineates the old city from its newer parts.
Martinstor – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Martinstor – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Martinstor – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Martinstor – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Restaurants
For our day trip we chose to have chinese or japanese and found a nice modern place that opened in the remains of the old Laubfrosch restaurant.
Unkai
If you are looking for either chinese or japanese cuisine look no further than Unkai Asian Fusion.
Unkai Restaurant – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
The decor inside is decidedly modern and the staff is very attentive to your needs, especially if that has to do with children.
Unkai Restaurant – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Unkai Restaurant – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Unkai Restaurant – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Unkai Restaurant – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Unkai Restaurant – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Unkai Restaurant – Kaiser-Josephstraße – Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
A stone’s throw from Colmar is the small Zwiebelstadt of Eguisheim[1]In German it is spelled Egisheim, France. Here you will enjoy what a small medievalAlsatian town feels like.
Equisheim
The germans use the term Zwiebelstadtto denote any small medieval town that is formed like an onion. Though typically they have eight sides with concentric alleys bisected by a Grand Rue, or main street, they may be circular or oval as well. In the center of it all you will usually find a church or main plaza.
City Map – Stadtplan – Eguisheim, France
In the above the following are noteworthy, according to town officials, starting at (D) with the Pigeon Loft.
Rue de Ramport – The colors of Eguisheim
Rue de Ramport – Round and round the town
The gates of the town
The town’s inscriptions
Stone engravings
The chateau
The host of the chapel
The virgins of Eguisheim (the church)
The tithe courtyards
The area around the town is noted for its excellent alsatian wines. Upon entering the town visitors can see a record of the vineyards proudly displayed along with restaurants and a map of the town.
Alsatian WIneries – Eguisheim, France
Getting There
From Colmar a quick drive down the Rue de Tiefenbach or the Route de Rouffach puts you on the D83 for a short time before you reach one of the many small roads that will take you into town, though typically it would be the Rue de la 1er Armée.
The fields outside – Entering the town – Eguisheim, France
Wine press near parking lot – Eguisheim, France
Grand Rue
Cutting through the center of town is the Grand Rue, or main street. Here is where you will find most all of the shops and many of the wineries.
Typical winery on the edge of town – Eguisheim, France
Entering town – Grand Rue – Eguisheim, France
Paired towns Eguisheim and Hinterzarten – Grand Rue – Eguisheim, France
Hotel de Ville – Grand Rue – Eguisheim, France
More hotels – Grand Rue – Eguisheim, France
Winery – Grand Rue – Eguisheim, France
The tourism office is close by the Eguisheim Fountain, so once you locate that, it’s just a stone’s throw away.
Fountain of Eguisheim – Grand Rue – Eguisheim, France
Charles Bauer winery – Grand Rue – Eguisheim, France
Rue de Rempart
We spent most of our time walking this alley, which circumnavigates the town. Since the town is laid out like an onion, you will eventually come back to where you started.
La Grange de Eguisheim – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
La Grange de Eguisheim – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Timber Houses – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Quaint cafe – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Cobbled alley – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Small timbered house – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
More timbered houses – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Walking along – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Tower of Église Saints-Pierre-et-Paul – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Ericka, Gabi, Vlad and Patti walking ahead – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
The Rue de Rempart creates two rows of buildings that acted like fortifications for the town. Since the town was not initially meant to be a fortress, but was more economical in nature, the outside wall turned into another row of houses some time in the sixteenth century.
Ivy on house – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Storks are everywhere – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Shops – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Houses that formed the outter wall of the original town – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Houses that formed the outter wall of the original town – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Round and round Eguisheim – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Intersection of Grand Rue – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
And on it goes in a great circle – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Ericka, Gabi, Vlad and Patti walking ahead – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Less renovated houses – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Many buildings in the town are also adorned with coats-of-arms. Many of the pediments and lintels are decorated with them and other engravings, usually left by the stone masons themselves. In most cases the coat-of-arms indicated who lived in the house according to their profession, a butcher’s block for a butcher for example. However, a sword crossing a shield would indicate a master craftsman in that profession.
Coats of arms on buildings and other markings – Rue de Rempart – Eguisheim, France
Chapelle Saint-Léon IX
Along with the chateau that is close by, the Chapel of Saint Leon IX is a central sight. The fountain of Saint Leon is directly below the stairs to the chapel.
Chapelle Saint-Léon IX – Place du Château Saint Léon – Eguisheim, France
Chapelle Saint-Léon IX – Inside – Place du Château Saint Léon – Eguisheim, France
Chapelle Saint-Léon IX – Main Entrance – Place du Château Saint Léon – Eguisheim, France
Place du Château Saint Léon – Eguisheim, France
Église Saints-Pierre-et-Paul
Off on another street is the Church of Saints Peter and Paul. Though larger than the chapel, the outside and inside are more austere.
Église Saints-Pierre-et-Paul – Eguisheim, France
Église Saints-Pierre-et-Paul – Inside – Eguisheim, France
Other Sights
If you walk enough you will find an old American Willeys Jeep left over from the war. There are also several other wineries of the main streets as well.
One last view – Eguisheim, France
Old American Willeys Jeep – Eguisheim, France
Jos. Freudenreich Winery – Cour Unterlinden – Eguisheim, France
Though we only spent a few hours here, we thoroughly enjoyed it, especially since the weather was very nice. It might make more sense though, to stay a bit longer and enjoy a wine tour throught he vineyards and one or two wine tastings. In any event, it is a great place to stop and is highly recommended.
Restaurants
Unfortunately, we cannot commend a place to eat or drink, since we did neither in Eguisheim. A wine tasting might be commended though, since it is at the center of Alsatian wine country!
It’s been some time since our last visit to Strasbourg, France. So when the opportunity arose to stop there, just for lunch, we jumped at the idea, since it is one of our favorite cities in France.
Strasbourg
The town has not changed much since we were last here, though that was during the summer. The weather however was great, a bit cool but sunny and pleasant. We stopped on our way to Colmar and enjoyed some of the city sights while we walked to our restaurant destination.
Place de la Grande Boucherie – Strasbourg, France
Place de la Grande Boucherie – Strasbourg, France
Rue des Bouchers – Strasbourg, France
Rue des Bouchers – Strasbourg, France
Restaurants
Le Gruber
Previously known as Zum Alten Strassburg, Le Gruber offers typical Alsatian cuisine, which is a mixture of french and german. The interior is comfortable and very nice.
Le Gruber Restaurant – Main Entrance – Strasbourg, France
Le Gruber Restaurant – Menu – Strasbourg, France
Le Gruber Restaurant – Menu – Strasbourg, France
Le Gruber Restaurant – Inside – Strasbourg, France
Le Gruber Restaurant – Inside – Strasbourg, France
Le Gruber Restaurant – Inside – Strasbourg, France
Le Gruber Restaurant – Patti and Ericka – Strasbourg, France
The food was very good and reasonably priced. I found the potato casserole especially enjoyable and very tasty, though with the Muenster cheese on it, a bit filling.
Le Gruber Restaurant – French Onion Soup – Strasbourg, France
Le Gruber Restaurant – French Onion Soup – Strasbourg, France
Le Gruber Restaurant – Fish special with noodles – Strasbourg, France
Le Gruber Restaurant – Potato Gratin – Strasbourg, France
Le Gruber Restaurant – Gabis Fried Potato Pancake with Bibaleskaes, Ham and Salad – Strasbourg, France
Le Gruber Restaurant – Potato Casserole and Salad – Strasbourg, France
After Lake Leman we planned a return to the Bernese Alps and chose Wengen at the behest of other family members. We had previously been to Grindelwald and had spent some time there, so we knew the area well, although we had never visited the Lauterbrunnen Valley. In preparation for this trip, we purchased the following tickets and discount cards to help in managing expenses.
The Swiss Half Fare Card – provides half fare prices on all travel, including cable cars and other forms of transportation
The Oberländer Pass – provides access to all modes of transportation within the Oberland, can be purchased using the Half Fare card above.
The GoldenPass Express – since it is a special train, it is included in the Oberlander Pass, but if you want reserved seating, use the Half Fare card the price for First Class, it is still quite reasonable and perhaps the way to go for medium to large groups (we were a party of six).
Getting There
From Montreux, Switzerland we enjoyed the GoldenPass Express train to Interlaken Ost, the train station that lies between the lakes Thunersee and Brienzersee, just outside the Lauterbrunnen Valley.
Montreux Train Station – Montreux, Switzerland
Goldenpass Express – Montreux Train Station – Montreux, Switzerland
Goldenpass Express – Montreux Train Station – Montreux, Switzerland
It winds through the Cantons of Vaud and Bern, through the Simmental valley where there are pastoral views to enjoy.
Lake Leman – GoldenPass Train – Montreux, Switzerland
Lake Leman – GoldenPass Train – Montreux, Switzerland
Lake Thun – GoldenPass Train – Interlaken, Switzerland
Lake Thun – GoldenPass Train – Interlaken, Switzerland
Lake Thun – GoldenPass Train – Interlaken, Switzerland
Wengen The Town
Wengen is a classic Swiss ski town, having a single avenue with shops and stores catering to souvenir hunters, hotels spread throughout the surrounding area with accompanied restaurants, as well as standalone restaurants offering specialities and train and cable car stations. One thing it doesn’t have are private cars, they are not allowed here and one must park in Lauterbrunnen and take the train to visit.
Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen Town – Wengen, Switzerland
Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen Town – Wengen, Switzerland
Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen Town – Wengen, Switzerland
Beautiful Rainy Evening – Wengen, Switzerland
Beautiful Rainy Evening – Wengen, Switzerland
Hotel Jungfraublick
Our hotel during our stay was the Jungfraublick hotel, a three star hotel with restaurant. It supplied a complimentary continental breakfast in the morning, but its linen service proved to be somewhat of a problem and each day we had to ask for things we should have been supplied.
Aside from that, we didn’t see much of the Jungfrau, the third tallest mountain in the Bernese Alps, due to weather and the constant threat of rain or snow.
Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen Train – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen Town – Wengen, Switzerland
Restaurants
Even though it was slightly off-season, we made reservations for all the restaurants we visited and it is probably advised, we found most of them fairly busy during regular dinner hours.
Da Sine Ristorante
On our first day in Wengen, we ate here for lunch. They have excellent Italian food at somewhat reasonable prices for Switzerland.
Da Sina Ristorante – Main Entrance – Wengen, Switzerland
Da Sina Ristorante – Main Entrance – Wengen, Switzerland
Caprice Ristorante
The Caprice restaurant also offers Italian food and is very good. It can be found at the Maya Caprice Boutique Hotel and there prices are also in line with what other restaurants are charging in the area.
Charlie Chaplin called this town his retirement home for the remaining twenty-five years of his life and it is commemorated with a number of statues to that affect. It enjoys that same lazy coastline lifestyle that its sister Clarens to the east enjoys. There are definitely less crowds here than you will find in Montreux. It is also considered the headquarters of Nestlé and where chocolate was first created for the mass market.
Flowers Along The Quai – Vevey, Switzerland
Getting There
A three mile walk northwest of the town of Clarens is the town of Vevey, Switzerland where you can relax and enjoy a slightly different view of the lake. On a beautiful morning this would be the way to go, with the exception of about a mile where the path turns inward and you must walk more along the road than the lake. However, one can also take a bus, train or ferry to reach this town.
Quai de Clarens – Leaving Our Hotel – Clarens, Switzerland
Lake Leman – Clarens, Switzerland
Lake Leman – CGN Lake Ferry – Clarens, Switzerland
Lake Leman – Ilse de Salagnon Harbor – Clarens, Switzerland
Lake Leman – Looking Toward Vevey – Clarens, Switzerland
Lake Leman – Ilse de Salagnon Harbor – Clarens, Switzerland
For our return we took the CGN Ferry back to Clarens. While I would normally say it was a relaxing trip back, we had our grandson with us who was overdue for a nap, so we enjoyed a terrible-two meltdown instead!
The old town is a one or two block wide stretch along the lake’s coastline. Though there are still a few old Roman bridges that span the small creek that cuts through the town, there seems to be no evidence of the old fortifications that used to protect it.
City Hall – Municipal Building – Vevey, Switzerland
Nicolas Gogol Monument – Vevey, Switzerland
Entering The Town – Vevey, Switzerland
Lake Leman – Ilse de Salagnon Harbor – Clarens, Switzerland
In the central part of town, the Saint Jean clock tower stands sentinel and offers a fountain as refreshment below it.
Saint Jean Clock Tower and Fountain – Vevey, Switzerland
One of many fountains – Vevey, Switzerland
Vevey Vieille Ville Fountain – Vevey, Switzerland
Rue du Lac – Vevey, Switzerland
Dana Window Shopping – Vevey, Switzerland
Rue du Lac – Vevey, Switzerland
There are numerous shops here and on the right day, the central square or Place du Marché, holds a marketplace where a whole host of goods are sold. Therefore you may not be able to rely on this as a parking lot and if driving look elsewhere.
Plac du Marché – Vevey, Switzerland
La Grenette – Vevey, Switzerland
Busy Town Square – Vevey, Switzerland
The Jardin Doret or park, has public amenities, as well as a nice playground for small children who need to take a rest from all of the adult walking we like to do on vacation; so for some, a must stop.
Stream with Jardin Doret – Vevey, Switzerland
Gabi, Ericka and Vlad – Place de l’Aviron – Vevey, Switzerland
Lake Leman – Seahorse Sculpture – Vevey, Switzerland
On the far northeast corner of Lake Leman (a.k.a. Lake Geneva) sits the small vacation town of Clarens, a stone’s throw away from Montreux, Switzerland. Though there really isn’t much to speak of the town itself, aside from some shopping, it has a beautiful waterfront and expansive walking path along the lake called the Quai Perdonnet.
Getting There And Around
From Frankfurt, Germany we took Swiss Airways to Geneva, Switzerland, about an hour and a half flight. At the Geneva airport it is then easy to use the local train system to travel from Geneva to Clarens, with the only exception of having to switch trains once in Renens.
Frankfurt Airport – Frankfurt, Germany
Geneva Airport – Geneva, Switzerland
Travel Cards And Other Arrangements
Depending on your situation it may be prudent to look into some of the many travel cards and discount programs that Swiss Rail system has to offer. Since we were traveling as a rather large family group and were going to use the public transit system often, we decided to at least puchase the Swiss Half-Fare Card. Though initially somewhat expensive, it cuts your fares in half for all types of transportation. Also be aware that every ticket purchased with it, you must also present this card for fare validation, a bit annoying, but it’s Switzerland.
Hotel La Villa
We stayed at the Hotel La Villa, which also has a restaurant by the same name. This hotel is right on the lake and offers scenic views, especially when enjoying a drink or something to eat on the terrace or veranda.
La Villa Hotel – Main Entrance – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel – Our Hotel – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel – Back – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel – Lake Leman – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel – Lake Leman – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel – Lake Leman – Clarens, Switzerland
Restaurants
During our stay we ate at the following restaurants.
Lake Leman At Night – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa
The restaurant is part of the hotel and is very convenient for those staying at the hotel, since all other options are some walk from the hotel. It has a very good menu and a continental breakfast, for those staying at the hotel. Though they offer boiled eggs as a hot entree for breakfast, if you are looking for something more substantial, you may have to look in town.
La Villa Restaurant – Breakfast – Clarens, Switzerland
For dinner the restaurant offers are very nice menu, complete with wine pairings and other amenities.
La Villa Hotel and Restaurant – Side At Night – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel and Restaurant – Front At Night – Clarens, Montreaux, Switzerland
La Villa Restaurant – Lasagna – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Restaurant – Pasta Bolognese – Clarens, Switzerland
On Sunday, the first of June, we traveled to Reykjavik, Iceland for a stop-over of a couple of days as we started our journey back to the United States. We arrived only to experience a truly deep extra-tropical cyclone that had set itself up off the coast of Iceland and gave us a memorably windy start to our trip back and the end of our weekend.
Getting There
From Turin we took the FrecciaRossa to Milan Central Station and then up to Malpensa Airport by regional train. The two trips combined were a bit over two hours and more or less uneventful, though one could see tourist travel has definitely picked up in recent weeks, so the trains were pretty full.
Icelandair – Airport – Keflavik, Iceland
Airport Terminal – Keflavik, Iceland
Milan to Keflavik – Flying Over – Iceland
Milan to Keflavik – Flying Over – Iceland
Milan to Keflavik – Coast Near Airport – Iceland
Having only a few days to experience what we could of this volcanic island, we decided to stay in Reykjavik. A good forty-five minute drive from Keflavik Airport to Reykjavik, you only have two options, by bus or by automobile (honestly I am not sure if there is an ocean option). It does not matter whether you arrange or book a transfer service through something like GetYourGuide, or take a taxi directly from the airport, both costs are pretty much the same. The bus however is a cheaper option at around $30 per passenger, but does leave you generally on the southern outskirts of town, so you will either have to walk from there or hire a taxi to get to your hotel.
Get Your Guide Transfer – Keflavik to Reykjavik- Iceland
Get Your Guide Transfer – Keflavik to Reykjavik- Iceland
Get Your Guide Transfer – Keflavik to Reyjkavik – Iceland
Get Your Guide Transfer – Keflavik to Reykjavik- Iceland
Reykjavik – The City
The city reminded me of a long lost outpost that has been built up over the decades. Even the airports are pieced together from left over vestiges of American activities during World War II. The house are generally clad in corrugated galvanized sheets typically used for roofing material. Many are painted in bright colors to enhance their roadside appeal.
Laugavegur – Main Pedestrian and Shopping Street – Reykjavik, Iceland
Laugavegur – Main Pedestrian and Shopping Street – Reykjavik, Iceland
Side Street to Saebraut – Reykjavik, Iceland
Safnahúsið – House of Collections – Reykjavik, Iceland
Typical Street – Reykjavik, Iceland
Mixture of Architecture – Reykjavik, Iceland
Houses with Corrugate Metal Walls – Reykjavik, Iceland
Colorful Houses – Reykjavik, Iceland
Our Hotel
We stayed at the Sand Hotel in town, a Keahotel, of which there are a few in Reykjavik. We found it comfortable and central for our needs. A continental breakfast was included each morning, which we found to be actually a bit more than a mere continental breakfast and more than adequate for our needs. However, if you do not have a hotel with included breakfast, don’t worry, there are plenty of cafes, pastry and waffel shops around to grab a bite to eat in the morning.
Sand Hotel by Keahotels – Main Entrance – Reykjavik, Iceland
Saebraut And The Sun Voyager
Even though the weather did not cooperate much, we learned it rarely does in Iceland, a nice stroll along the Saebraut is a must. There is both a walkway and cycling lane that runs the length of the bay in Reykjavik. Here you will find the Sun Voyager, a stainless-steel sculpture by Jón Gunnar Árnason, that mimics a old Viking sailing boat.
Saebraut – Patti – Reykjavik, Iceland
Saebraut – Erick – Reykjavik, Iceland
Saebraut – Reykjavik, Iceland
Saebraut – Reykjavik, Iceland
Saebraut – The Sun Voyager – Reykjavik, Iceland
Skolavorduholt
A short walk up Rainbow Street and the highest hill in Reykjavik is the Skolavorduholt, the place where you will find the Hallgrimskirkja Lutheran Church and the monument to Lief Eriksson.
Rainbow Street – Runic Shop and the Brekkuholt House – Reykjavik, Iceland
Rainbow Street – Reykjavik, Iceland
Rainbow Street – Reykjavik, Iceland
Hallgrimskirkja Church
The church is impressive and easily the largest church on the island. It has an impressive apse and organ and an almost clean, if not antiseptic appearance inside. The pews are built so that can be easily switched, so you can either face the altar for services, or the organ for performances.
Hallgrimkirkja – Main Entrance – Reykjavik, Iceland
Hallgrimkirkja – Apse and Altar – Reykjavik, Iceland
Hallgrimkirkja – Grand Organ – Reykjavik, Iceland
Lief Eriksson
The monument of Lief Eriksson which stands directly outside in front of the entrance, gives historical credit to this noble adventurer and discoverer of the North America. The monument was gifted to the island in 1930 by the United States of America.
The Austurvöllur area is where many of the municiple buildings are located, as well as the Tjörnin, or “The Pond”. This body of water is a favorite for the school children during lunch and you can often find them feeding the ducks which collect along the shore for an easy meal.
Prime Minister’s Office – Reykjavik, Iceland
Prime Minister’s Office – Reykjavik, Iceland
Tjarnarskóli ehf – Elementary School – Reykjavik, Iceland
Tjörnin – The Pond – Reykjavik, Iceland
Alþingishúsið – State Parliament Building – Reykjavik, Iceland
Apotek Hotel by Keahotels – Reykjavik, Iceland
Jon Sigurdsson Monument – Reykjavik, Iceland
Looking Seaward – Reykjavik, Iceland
Harbor – Reykjavik, Iceland
Harbor – Reykjavik, Iceland
The Old Harbor Boat Ramp – Reykjavik, Iceland
The Old Harbor Boat Ramp – Reykjavik, Iceland
The Unknown Bureaucrat – Reykjavik, Iceland
Restaurants
The Scandinavian Bistro
Our first evening we ate at the Scandinavian Bistro and thoroughly enjoyed it. Though it does not have a lot of seating inside, it is adequate and does not feel overly crowded. The food was a bit overpriced for what you got, but that’s true of most places in Reykjavik since they import a majority of their foodstuffs.
Scandinavian Bistro – My $38 Hamburger with Fries – Reykjavik, Iceland
Rossopomodoro
A continental chain and restaurant serving Italian cuisine can be found on the Laugevegur. A restaurant that is in many European cities and provides basic italian cuisine and pizza at fair prices. We ate here one evening due to its proximity to our hotel and because it was Italian food.
Reggia di Venaria Reale was a royal residence and palace to the northwest of Turin, Italy. It was one of more that a dozen residences of the Savoy family. It was abondoned after the Napoleonic Wars and later became a military post and barracks and subsequently slowly fell into disrepair and abandonment. After a major restoration, it finally opened to the public in 2007 as a musuem and tourist attraction.
La Venaria Reale – Map of Complex – Turin, Italy
Getting There
The easiest was to get there from Turin is to take one of the SFM trains from Porta Susa towards the Turin Airport. Many of these trains stop at Venaria Station and it only takes about fifteen to twenty minutes and costs about €3.50 per person. We often use the phone application and do not book a round-trip ticket, since you never know how long you might stay, especially if you are planning for lunch as well.
Porta Susa – Leaving for Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Train Station at Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Train Station at Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Military Monument – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Andrea Mensa – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Andrea Mensa – Turin, Italy
The Palace
The palace is actually in two pieces, the original Palace of Diana from the seventeenth century in white stucco with a white clock tower and the latter eighteenth century addition in raw brick with the Belvedere Tower, where you enter.
La Venaria Reale – Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Clock Tower, Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Castelmonte – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Noble Families, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Noble Families, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Museum, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Art Room, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Art Room, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Castle Diorama, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
The Grand Gallery
Probably the most striking room and the pinnacle of the visit, the Grand Gallery is part of the Palace of Diana and a core piece of the original palace.
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Saubaud Generations, Bedrooms, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
Turin At The Turn Of The Century
There is a nice collection of maps, dioramas and other works depicting Turin at the turn of the seventeenth century. Interesting from the perspective of present day Turin and what was lacking back in the day of the House of Savoy.
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Piazza San Carlo, Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
The Rooms Of Art
There is also a fine exhibit of art at the palace. Located through the entrance to the gardens, the entrance is in the back of the Palace of Diana.
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
The Stables
Juvarra Stables
The Juvarra Stables contain a collection of the royal family’s modes of transportation, from a river gondolla, to the royal coach and other broughams, all the way to childrens toy coach.
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
The wall is surrounded by a historical account of a trip up the River Po using the gondola from Venice to Turin.
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
Alfieri Stables
Today these just appear as a hallway depicting the transition from a palace in ruin to full restoration. Some of the photographs in the collection are strinking and it is well worth thoughful look and some consideration.
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
The Gardens
The gardens here include several, the most conspicuous one is the Flower Garden. But there is also several orchards and three distinct terraces that one can walk through and enjoy the well manicured estate.
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Pig Sculpture in wood, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Patti, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Reflecting Pool, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Gondola Pool – Turin, Italy
Church of Saint Hubert
One has to walk to the Church of Saint Hubert from within the complex near the stables, outside entry is not possible. All of the pews have been removed, only the artwork, frescoes and a high altar remain, everything else is gone.
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
Restaurants
Il Convito della Venaria
Just on the corners of the Piazza della Repubblica and Via Andrea Mensa is the ristorante Il Convito della Venaria. A fine place for lunch, though probably a bit pricier than some of the alternatives, though restaurants and cafes appear to get sparser and sparser as you walk back towards the train station, so word of warning. We had a simple lunch of Bruschetta and two different pasta dishes, Patti had Maccheroncino al Tochio with Eggplant, Zucchini and Olives in a red sauce and I had the Agnolottini del Plin Piemontese Style, both were delicious.
Il Convito della Venaria – Pasta with Olives and Squash – Turin, Italy
Il Convito della Venaria – Plin Piemontese – Turin, Italy
Bern was originally settled by Swabians[1]The Zähringen noble family from around Freiburg im Breisgau in the twelfth century and quickly died out within a century. from the lower parts of Germany, it is the fifth largest in Switzerland and was initially surrounded by the Aare river on three sides, with fortifications protecting it’s west side.
Marktgasse – Zytglogge – Bern, Switzerland
Käfigturm – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Zytglogge – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Bern Fresco – Bern, Switzerland
Getting There
Bern does not have a commercial airport, so you will either have use Zürich‘s or Geneva’s and then take a train. We had already started in Geneva, so taking one of the ICE trains from Geneva to Bern was automatic. However, in typical SBB[2]Schweizerische BundesBahnen or Swiss train fashion, it was halted before leaving the Lake Léman area and we had to find another train to continue our two hour journey, which then turned into a three hour trip[3]There have been few times when traveling by train in Switzerland was a normal affair. It is getting to be more like the Deutscher Bahn.
Bern Train Station – Main Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Platform – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Main Waiting Hall – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Main Waiting Hall – Bern, Switzerland
The City
The old medieval city of Bern is rather compact, due to it being confined by the Aare river. The main train station is on the west side of the city, so it is probably best to find a hotel close to it. We stayed at the Hotel Savoy, three blocks away from the train station.
Gerberngasse – Interesting House – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Rose Garden Hill and Paul Klee Center – Bern, Switzerland
Walking from the train station to the Nydeggbrücke, via the Marktgasse of Kramgasse, should not take more than a twenty-five to thirty minutes without stopping. The main shopping avenue is the Marktgasse, which is lined with many watch stores and most other modern shops you expect to see in city that is heavily traveled. See the restaurant section below for where to go for food.
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Anna Seiler Brunnen – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Porticos and Shops – Bern, Switzerland
Rooftops and Houses across the Aare river – Bern, Switzerland
Old house – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Wasserwerkgasse from bridge – Bern, Switzerland
Brunnen Or Fountains
The city has a lot of brunnen, or fountains in English, especially down the middle of the Marktgasse. Most of these have figures or other mythical forms, stylized perhaps from some historical figure.
There is also the Lischetti-Brunnen, also known as the Postgassbrunnen or Upper Postgassbrunnen, which was erected in 1820 next to the Staatskanzelei (State Chancellery) and is to be used by anyone who wishes to experience being a fountain.
Lischettibrunnen – Kronenbrunner or Upper Postgass Fountain – Bern, Switzerland
Hotel Savoy
A fairly good hotel on the Kramgasse, sharing an entrance with another store. We found it reasonably priced for a Swiss hotel and central for visiting the city. The breakfast is rather expensive, as it is in most Swiss hotels, at 30CHF per person. We found this unreasonable and ventured out each morning to stop at one of the many Konditoreien, or pastry shops, in the neighborhood. This option ran around 9-10CHF per person, but was only coffee and a pastry, which for use was sufficient.
Hotel Savoy – Main Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedrals And Churches
A few religious buildings of note in Bern are the Cathedral of Bern and the Church of Saint Peter and Paul.
Cathedral Of Bern
Cathedral of Bern – Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Nave and Alter – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – History of Tower – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Houses of Patrons – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Intricate Facade over Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Fountain – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Backside – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Intricate Facade over Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Church Of Saint Peter And Paul
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Entrance, Rathausgasse – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Rose Window – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Nave and Altar – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Organ – Bern, Switzerland
Bridges And The Aare River
There are two central bridges that span the Aare at the tip of the city. The Untertorbrücke, the first one to be built and is shown on maps of the city from the seventeenth century, and the Nydeggbrücke, which carries the tram and modern vehicular traffic.
Untertorbrücke – Nydeggbrücke over the Aare – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – The Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – Patti and the Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – Patti and the Aare River, Rose Garden on the hill – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke and the Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Bären Park
On one end of the Nydeggbrücke is the Bärenpark, or Bear Park. As early as the beginning of the sixteenth century the city has been known to have a Bärengraben, or Bear Pit, of some type or another. Ostensibly the city becoming eponymously named for the same in 1191 when the Duke of Zähringen killed a bear first on one of his many famous hunts. But seriously, this is just conjecture and there is more evidence that it was from a pre-existing toponym of Celtic origin, possibly berna, meaning cleft.
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Einsteinhaus
On Marktgasse 49, visitors will find the Einsteinhaus, or the apartment that Albert Einstein lived in during his publication of his ground breaking theories of 1905, including his Special Theory of Relativity.
Kramgasse 49 – Einstein House – Bern, Switzerland
Kramgasse 49 – Einstein House – Bern, Switzerland
The Rosengarden Bern
One top of the hill on the other side of the Aare river is the park containing the Rose Garden, or Rosengarden. Unfortunately for us, the roses were not in bloom in May, so we were unable to enjoy their colors. However, there were other flowers, trees and bushes to be enjoyed in the park.
Rose Garden – Patti on walkway up to garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – Patti and the garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – The garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – The garden – Bern, Switzerland
It is here, that Albert Einstein probably contemplated many of the problems around his Theory of Relativity, and a bench here so commemorates his efforts.
Rose Garden – Einstein bench and overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
From this vantage point you get a very good view of the old Medieval city of Bern, with its many churches, bridges and old style houses.
Rose Garden – Overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – Erick and overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
Restaurants
The Bärenplatz and Waisenhausplatz are central areas for restaurants and have a good mix of local Swiss restaurants to Italian and other cuisines.
Bärenplatz – Market on Waisenhausplatz – Bern, Switzerland
Santa Lucia Ristorante
Another Italian restaurant which has a very active lunch crowd. Here you can enjoy reasonable prices and a wide selection of Italian dishes, including pizza. Our first evening here we enjoyed the soup and spaghetti.
Santa Lucia Ristorante – Minestrone Soup – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Spaghetti Bolognese – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Spaghetti and Tomatoes – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Banana Split – Bern, Switzerland
The second time we visited was for lunch, then I ordered a pizza, which was very good and typical of the Neapolitan style from Naples. The house wine is also very pleasant.
Santa Lucia Ristorante – Pizza Margherita – Bern, Switzerland
Ristorante Luce
On the corner of Zeughausgasse and Waghausegasse is the Italian restaurant of Ristorante Luce. If you are looking for higher end Italian food, look no further. The service here is also exceptional, though the seating was a bit cramped.
Ristorante Luce – Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Ristorante Luce – Patti with her Soup – Bern, Switzerland
Here they serve very good Italian specialties and have an excellent wine list. Here you can find Strozzapreti, or Priest Strangler/Choker Pasta with Mozzarella. A rather large and somewhat gummy pasta with an very interesting history.
Ristorante Luce – Strozzapreti Pasta with Buffalo Mozzarella – Bern, Switzerland
I can specifically attest to spending 150CHF for a 375ml bottle of Ornellaia 2019. A DOC wine from Italy with extremely high ratings which regularly fetches $250-$800 a bottle, a truly amazing wine. So if you are a true wine lover, your pallet might enjoy this restaurant.
Ristorante Luce – Ornellaia Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019 – Bern, Switzerland
