On the far northeast corner of Lake Leman (a.k.a. Lake Geneva) sits the small vacation town of Clarens, a stone’s throw away from Montreux, Switzerland. Though there really isn’t much to speak of the town itself, aside from some shopping, it has a beautiful waterfront and expansive walking path along the lake called the Quai Perdonnet.
Getting There And Around
From Frankfurt, Germany we took Swiss Airways to Geneva, Switzerland, about an hour and a half flight. At the Geneva airport it is then easy to use the local train system to travel from Geneva to Clarens, with the only exception of having to switch trains once in Renens.
Frankfurt Airport – Frankfurt, Germany
Geneva Airport – Geneva, Switzerland
Travel Cards And Other Arrangements
Depending on your situation it may be prudent to look into some of the many travel cards and discount programs that Swiss Rail system has to offer. Since we were traveling as a rather large family group and were going to use the public transit system often, we decided to at least puchase the Swiss Half-Fare Card. Though initially somewhat expensive, it cuts your fares in half for all types of transportation. Also be aware that every ticket purchased with it, you must also present this card for fare validation, a bit annoying, but it’s Switzerland.
Hotel La Villa
We stayed at the Hotel La Villa, which also has a restaurant by the same name. This hotel is right on the lake and offers scenic views, especially when enjoying a drink or something to eat on the terrace or veranda.
La Villa Hotel – Main Entrance – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel – Our Hotel – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel – Back – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel – Lake Leman – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel – Lake Leman – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel – Lake Leman – Clarens, Switzerland
Restaurants
During our stay we ate at the following restaurants.
Lake Leman At Night – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa
The restaurant is part of the hotel and is very convenient for those staying at the hotel, since all other options are some walk from the hotel. It has a very good menu and a continental breakfast, for those staying at the hotel. Though they offer boiled eggs as a hot entree for breakfast, if you are looking for something more substantial, you may have to look in town.
La Villa Restaurant – Breakfast – Clarens, Switzerland
For dinner the restaurant offers are very nice menu, complete with wine pairings and other amenities.
La Villa Hotel and Restaurant – Side At Night – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel and Restaurant – Front At Night – Clarens, Montreaux, Switzerland
La Villa Restaurant – Lasagna – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Restaurant – Pasta Bolognese – Clarens, Switzerland
On Sunday, the first of June, we traveled to Reykjavik, Iceland for a stop-over of a couple of days as we started our journey back to the United States. We arrived only to experience a truly deep extra-tropical cyclone that had set itself up off the coast of Iceland and gave us a memorably windy start to our trip back and the end of our weekend.
Getting There
From Turin we took the FrecciaRossa to Milan Central Station and then up to Malpensa Airport by regional train. The two trips combined were a bit over two hours and more or less uneventful, though one could see tourist travel has definitely picked up in recent weeks, so the trains were pretty full.
Icelandair – Airport – Keflavik, Iceland
Airport Terminal – Keflavik, Iceland
Milan to Keflavik – Flying Over – Iceland
Milan to Keflavik – Flying Over – Iceland
Milan to Keflavik – Coast Near Airport – Iceland
Having only a few days to experience what we could of this volcanic island, we decided to stay in Reykjavik. A good forty-five minute drive from Keflavik Airport to Reykjavik, you only have two options, by bus or by automobile (honestly I am not sure if there is an ocean option). It does not matter whether you arrange or book a transfer service through something like GetYourGuide, or take a taxi directly from the airport, both costs are pretty much the same. The bus however is a cheaper option at around $30 per passenger, but does leave you generally on the southern outskirts of town, so you will either have to walk from there or hire a taxi to get to your hotel.
Get Your Guide Transfer – Keflavik to Reykjavik- Iceland
Get Your Guide Transfer – Keflavik to Reykjavik- Iceland
Get Your Guide Transfer – Keflavik to Reyjkavik – Iceland
Get Your Guide Transfer – Keflavik to Reykjavik- Iceland
Reykjavik – The City
The city reminded me of a long lost outpost that has been built up over the decades. Even the airports are pieced together from left over vestiges of American activities during World War II. The house are generally clad in corrugated galvanized sheets typically used for roofing material. Many are painted in bright colors to enhance their roadside appeal.
Laugavegur – Main Pedestrian and Shopping Street – Reykjavik, Iceland
Laugavegur – Main Pedestrian and Shopping Street – Reykjavik, Iceland
Side Street to Saebraut – Reykjavik, Iceland
Safnahúsið – House of Collections – Reykjavik, Iceland
Typical Street – Reykjavik, Iceland
Mixture of Architecture – Reykjavik, Iceland
Houses with Corrugate Metal Walls – Reykjavik, Iceland
Colorful Houses – Reykjavik, Iceland
Our Hotel
We stayed at the Sand Hotel in town, a Keahotel, of which there are a few in Reykjavik. We found it comfortable and central for our needs. A continental breakfast was included each morning, which we found to be actually a bit more than a mere continental breakfast and more than adequate for our needs. However, if you do not have a hotel with included breakfast, don’t worry, there are plenty of cafes, pastry and waffel shops around to grab a bite to eat in the morning.
Sand Hotel by Keahotels – Main Entrance – Reykjavik, Iceland
Saebraut And The Sun Voyager
Even though the weather did not cooperate much, we learned it rarely does in Iceland, a nice stroll along the Saebraut is a must. There is both a walkway and cycling lane that runs the length of the bay in Reykjavik. Here you will find the Sun Voyager, a stainless-steel sculpture by Jón Gunnar Árnason, that mimics a old Viking sailing boat.
Saebraut – Patti – Reykjavik, Iceland
Saebraut – Erick – Reykjavik, Iceland
Saebraut – Reykjavik, Iceland
Saebraut – Reykjavik, Iceland
Saebraut – The Sun Voyager – Reykjavik, Iceland
Skolavorduholt
A short walk up Rainbow Street and the highest hill in Reykjavik is the Skolavorduholt, the place where you will find the Hallgrimskirkja Lutheran Church and the monument to Lief Eriksson.
Rainbow Street – Runic Shop and the Brekkuholt House – Reykjavik, Iceland
Rainbow Street – Reykjavik, Iceland
Rainbow Street – Reykjavik, Iceland
Hallgrimskirkja Church
The church is impressive and easily the largest church on the island. It has an impressive apse and organ and an almost clean, if not antiseptic appearance inside. The pews are built so that can be easily switched, so you can either face the altar for services, or the organ for performances.
Hallgrimkirkja – Main Entrance – Reykjavik, Iceland
Hallgrimkirkja – Apse and Altar – Reykjavik, Iceland
Hallgrimkirkja – Grand Organ – Reykjavik, Iceland
Lief Eriksson
The monument of Lief Eriksson which stands directly outside in front of the entrance, gives historical credit to this noble adventurer and discoverer of the North America. The monument was gifted to the island in 1930 by the United States of America.
The Austurvöllur area is where many of the municiple buildings are located, as well as the Tjörnin, or “The Pond”. This body of water is a favorite for the school children during lunch and you can often find them feeding the ducks which collect along the shore for an easy meal.
Prime Minister’s Office – Reykjavik, Iceland
Prime Minister’s Office – Reykjavik, Iceland
Tjarnarskóli ehf – Elementary School – Reykjavik, Iceland
Tjörnin – The Pond – Reykjavik, Iceland
Alþingishúsið – State Parliament Building – Reykjavik, Iceland
Apotek Hotel by Keahotels – Reykjavik, Iceland
Jon Sigurdsson Monument – Reykjavik, Iceland
Looking Seaward – Reykjavik, Iceland
Harbor – Reykjavik, Iceland
Harbor – Reykjavik, Iceland
The Old Harbor Boat Ramp – Reykjavik, Iceland
The Old Harbor Boat Ramp – Reykjavik, Iceland
The Unknown Bureaucrat – Reykjavik, Iceland
Restaurants
The Scandinavian Bistro
Our first evening we ate at the Scandinavian Bistro and thoroughly enjoyed it. Though it does not have a lot of seating inside, it is adequate and does not feel overly crowded. The food was a bit overpriced for what you got, but that’s true of most places in Reykjavik since they import a majority of their foodstuffs.
Scandinavian Bistro – My $38 Hamburger with Fries – Reykjavik, Iceland
Rossopomodoro
A continental chain and restaurant serving Italian cuisine can be found on the Laugevegur. A restaurant that is in many European cities and provides basic italian cuisine and pizza at fair prices. We ate here one evening due to its proximity to our hotel and because it was Italian food.
Reggia di Venaria Reale was a royal residence and palace to the northwest of Turin, Italy. It was one of more that a dozen residences of the Savoy family. It was abondoned after the Napoleonic Wars and later became a military post and barracks and subsequently slowly fell into disrepair and abandonment. After a major restoration, it finally opened to the public in 2007 as a musuem and tourist attraction.
La Venaria Reale – Map of Complex – Turin, Italy
Getting There
The easiest was to get there from Turin is to take one of the SFM trains from Porta Susa towards the Turin Airport. Many of these trains stop at Venaria Station and it only takes about fifteen to twenty minutes and costs about €3.50 per person. We often use the phone application and do not book a round-trip ticket, since you never know how long you might stay, especially if you are planning for lunch as well.
Porta Susa – Leaving for Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Train Station at Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Train Station at Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Military Monument – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Andrea Mensa – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Andrea Mensa – Turin, Italy
The Palace
The palace is actually in two pieces, the original Palace of Diana from the seventeenth century in white stucco with a white clock tower and the latter eighteenth century addition in raw brick with the Belvedere Tower, where you enter.
La Venaria Reale – Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Clock Tower, Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Castelmonte – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Noble Families, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Noble Families, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Museum, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Art Room, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Art Room, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Castle Diorama, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
The Grand Gallery
Probably the most striking room and the pinnacle of the visit, the Grand Gallery is part of the Palace of Diana and a core piece of the original palace.
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Saubaud Generations, Bedrooms, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
Turin At The Turn Of The Century
There is a nice collection of maps, dioramas and other works depicting Turin at the turn of the seventeenth century. Interesting from the perspective of present day Turin and what was lacking back in the day of the House of Savoy.
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Piazza San Carlo, Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
The Rooms Of Art
There is also a fine exhibit of art at the palace. Located through the entrance to the gardens, the entrance is in the back of the Palace of Diana.
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
The Stables
Juvarra Stables
The Juvarra Stables contain a collection of the royal family’s modes of transportation, from a river gondolla, to the royal coach and other broughams, all the way to childrens toy coach.
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
The wall is surrounded by a historical account of a trip up the River Po using the gondola from Venice to Turin.
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
Alfieri Stables
Today these just appear as a hallway depicting the transition from a palace in ruin to full restoration. Some of the photographs in the collection are strinking and it is well worth thoughful look and some consideration.
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
The Gardens
The gardens here include several, the most conspicuous one is the Flower Garden. But there is also several orchards and three distinct terraces that one can walk through and enjoy the well manicured estate.
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Pig Sculpture in wood, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Patti, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Reflecting Pool, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Gondola Pool – Turin, Italy
Church of Saint Hubert
One has to walk to the Church of Saint Hubert from within the complex near the stables, outside entry is not possible. All of the pews have been removed, only the artwork, frescoes and a high altar remain, everything else is gone.
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
Restaurants
Il Convito della Venaria
Just on the corners of the Piazza della Repubblica and Via Andrea Mensa is the ristorante Il Convito della Venaria. A fine place for lunch, though probably a bit pricier than some of the alternatives, though restaurants and cafes appear to get sparser and sparser as you walk back towards the train station, so word of warning. We had a simple lunch of Bruschetta and two different pasta dishes, Patti had Maccheroncino al Tochio with Eggplant, Zucchini and Olives in a red sauce and I had the Agnolottini del Plin Piemontese Style, both were delicious.
Il Convito della Venaria – Pasta with Olives and Squash – Turin, Italy
Il Convito della Venaria – Plin Piemontese – Turin, Italy
Bern was originally settled by Swabians[1]The Zähringen noble family from around Freiburg im Breisgau in the twelfth century and quickly died out within a century. from the lower parts of Germany, it is the fifth largest in Switzerland and was initially surrounded by the Aare river on three sides, with fortifications protecting it’s west side.
Marktgasse – Zytglogge – Bern, Switzerland
Käfigturm – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Zytglogge – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Bern Fresco – Bern, Switzerland
Getting There
Bern does not have a commercial airport, so you will either have use Zürich‘s or Geneva’s and then take a train. We had already started in Geneva, so taking one of the ICE trains from Geneva to Bern was automatic. However, in typical SBB[2]Schweizerische BundesBahnen or Swiss train fashion, it was halted before leaving the Lake Léman area and we had to find another train to continue our two hour journey, which then turned into a three hour trip[3]There have been few times when traveling by train in Switzerland was a normal affair. It is getting to be more like the Deutscher Bahn.
Bern Train Station – Main Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Platform – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Main Waiting Hall – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Main Waiting Hall – Bern, Switzerland
The City
The old medieval city of Bern is rather compact, due to it being confined by the Aare river. The main train station is on the west side of the city, so it is probably best to find a hotel close to it. We stayed at the Hotel Savoy, three blocks away from the train station.
Gerberngasse – Interesting House – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Rose Garden Hill and Paul Klee Center – Bern, Switzerland
Walking from the train station to the Nydeggbrücke, via the Marktgasse of Kramgasse, should not take more than a twenty-five to thirty minutes without stopping. The main shopping avenue is the Marktgasse, which is lined with many watch stores and most other modern shops you expect to see in city that is heavily traveled. See the restaurant section below for where to go for food.
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Anna Seiler Brunnen – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Porticos and Shops – Bern, Switzerland
Rooftops and Houses across the Aare river – Bern, Switzerland
Old house – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Wasserwerkgasse from bridge – Bern, Switzerland
Brunnen Or Fountains
The city has a lot of brunnen, or fountains in English, especially down the middle of the Marktgasse. Most of these have figures or other mythical forms, stylized perhaps from some historical figure.
There is also the Lischetti-Brunnen, also known as the Postgassbrunnen or Upper Postgassbrunnen, which was erected in 1820 next to the Staatskanzelei (State Chancellery) and is to be used by anyone who wishes to experience being a fountain.
Lischettibrunnen – Kronenbrunner or Upper Postgass Fountain – Bern, Switzerland
Hotel Savoy
A fairly good hotel on the Kramgasse, sharing an entrance with another store. We found it reasonably priced for a Swiss hotel and central for visiting the city. The breakfast is rather expensive, as it is in most Swiss hotels, at 30CHF per person. We found this unreasonable and ventured out each morning to stop at one of the many Konditoreien, or pastry shops, in the neighborhood. This option ran around 9-10CHF per person, but was only coffee and a pastry, which for use was sufficient.
Hotel Savoy – Main Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedrals And Churches
A few religious buildings of note in Bern are the Cathedral of Bern and the Church of Saint Peter and Paul.
Cathedral Of Bern
Cathedral of Bern – Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Nave and Alter – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – History of Tower – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Houses of Patrons – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Intricate Facade over Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Fountain – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Backside – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Intricate Facade over Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Church Of Saint Peter And Paul
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Entrance, Rathausgasse – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Rose Window – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Nave and Altar – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Organ – Bern, Switzerland
Bridges And The Aare River
There are two central bridges that span the Aare at the tip of the city. The Untertorbrücke, the first one to be built and is shown on maps of the city from the seventeenth century, and the Nydeggbrücke, which carries the tram and modern vehicular traffic.
Untertorbrücke – Nydeggbrücke over the Aare – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – The Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – Patti and the Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – Patti and the Aare River, Rose Garden on the hill – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke and the Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Bären Park
On one end of the Nydeggbrücke is the Bärenpark, or Bear Park. As early as the beginning of the sixteenth century the city has been known to have a Bärengraben, or Bear Pit, of some type or another. Ostensibly the city becoming eponymously named for the same in 1191 when the Duke of Zähringen killed a bear first on one of his many famous hunts. But seriously, this is just conjecture and there is more evidence that it was from a pre-existing toponym of Celtic origin, possibly berna, meaning cleft.
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Einsteinhaus
On Marktgasse 49, visitors will find the Einsteinhaus, or the apartment that Albert Einstein lived in during his publication of his ground breaking theories of 1905, including his Special Theory of Relativity.
Kramgasse 49 – Einstein House – Bern, Switzerland
Kramgasse 49 – Einstein House – Bern, Switzerland
The Rosengarden Bern
One top of the hill on the other side of the Aare river is the park containing the Rose Garden, or Rosengarden. Unfortunately for us, the roses were not in bloom in May, so we were unable to enjoy their colors. However, there were other flowers, trees and bushes to be enjoyed in the park.
Rose Garden – Patti on walkway up to garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – Patti and the garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – The garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – The garden – Bern, Switzerland
It is here, that Albert Einstein probably contemplated many of the problems around his Theory of Relativity, and a bench here so commemorates his efforts.
Rose Garden – Einstein bench and overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
From this vantage point you get a very good view of the old Medieval city of Bern, with its many churches, bridges and old style houses.
Rose Garden – Overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – Erick and overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
Restaurants
The Bärenplatz and Waisenhausplatz are central areas for restaurants and have a good mix of local Swiss restaurants to Italian and other cuisines.
Bärenplatz – Market on Waisenhausplatz – Bern, Switzerland
Santa Lucia Ristorante
Another Italian restaurant which has a very active lunch crowd. Here you can enjoy reasonable prices and a wide selection of Italian dishes, including pizza. Our first evening here we enjoyed the soup and spaghetti.
Santa Lucia Ristorante – Minestrone Soup – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Spaghetti Bolognese – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Spaghetti and Tomatoes – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Banana Split – Bern, Switzerland
The second time we visited was for lunch, then I ordered a pizza, which was very good and typical of the Neapolitan style from Naples. The house wine is also very pleasant.
Santa Lucia Ristorante – Pizza Margherita – Bern, Switzerland
Ristorante Luce
On the corner of Zeughausgasse and Waghausegasse is the Italian restaurant of Ristorante Luce. If you are looking for higher end Italian food, look no further. The service here is also exceptional, though the seating was a bit cramped.
Ristorante Luce – Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Ristorante Luce – Patti with her Soup – Bern, Switzerland
Here they serve very good Italian specialties and have an excellent wine list. Here you can find Strozzapreti, or Priest Strangler/Choker Pasta with Mozzarella. A rather large and somewhat gummy pasta with an very interesting history.
Ristorante Luce – Strozzapreti Pasta with Buffalo Mozzarella – Bern, Switzerland
I can specifically attest to spending 150CHF for a 375ml bottle of Ornellaia 2019. A DOC wine from Italy with extremely high ratings which regularly fetches $250-$800 a bottle, a truly amazing wine. So if you are a true wine lover, your pallet might enjoy this restaurant.
Ristorante Luce – Ornellaia Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019 – Bern, Switzerland
If you are into hiking and enjoy a really good weekend excursion, then the Metropolitan town of Turin has something great to offer, the tiny little town of Ivrea. Known for being part of the Via Francigena[1]The ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome. and Five Lake hiking area, it is a great place to spend a few days.
Via Francigena – Hiking and Trail Sign – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Hiking and Trail Guide – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Way through the city – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Way through the city – Ivrea, Italy
Getting There
This town can be reached in just under an hour’s train ride from Porta Nuovo in Turin. The Regional Veloce (RV) runs directly from the main train station, through Porta Susa and onto Ivrea. Unfortunately, the line no longer continues to Aosta, so those who are stopping over have to use the bus service to continue their journeys.
Porta Nuovo Train Station – Main Lobby – Turin, Italy
Ivrea Train Station – Outside – Ivrea, Italy
The Hotel
We stayed at the Hotel 3T on Via Sant’Ulderico, a modern hotel that has most of the amenities. One thing I disliked about this hotel, at least during this time of year (Spring), is that the thermostat makes you believe you have control over the temperature in your room, when in fact you don’t!
3T Hotel – Castle Sabaudo, At Night – Ivrea, Italy
3T Hotel – Our Room, 209 – Ivrea, Italy
3T Hotel – Our Room, 209 – Ivrea, Italy
The Town
The town is cut in two by the Dora Baltea river, which offers a few courses for avid kayakers and seems to draw them from all over. The river here cuts right through the native diorite rock, which can be seen everywhere you look and presents a dark geologic hardness that makes it such a stable building foundation; practically everything, including the hospital, is built on it.
Dora Baltea River – Train Bridge to Aosta, closed – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Ponte Vecchio – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Train Bridge to Aosta, closed – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – From Ponte Vecchio – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Fontana Camillo Olivetti – Ivrea, Italy
There is not much to the town itself, just the Lungodora, or walkway along the river, and one central main street where one can find most of the shops, cafes and other stores.
Dora Baltea River – Corse Re Umberto – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Corse Re Umberto – Ivrea, Italy
Castle Saubauda
A large rectangular castle built in the fourteenth century by the Savoy family. It is only open certain times during the year and one has to reserve their guided tour ahead of time. We were only able to see the outside and sometimes at night it is lit up in different colors.
Sabaudo Castle – Ivrea, Italy
Sabaudo Castle – Ivrea, Italy
Ivrea Cathedral
Actually known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of Saint Mary, or Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, is very close to the castle on the hilltop. It is in need of restoration and there are several, apparently small projects already underway inside the cathedral.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Entrance – Ivrea, Italy
Inside the cathedral is actually quite impressive. The nave is well decorated with ceiling frescoes and religious art. It is quite dark and reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel before that was restored and suffers from decades, if not centuries or candle and other smoke.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Nave and ceiling – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Aisle – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen entrance – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, bricked up window – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Nave and Organ – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Transept – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen ceiling frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
The Crypt
The main attraction of the crypt are the frescoes. When possible the caretakers of the cathedral have installed lighting, so that you can adore without the need for using the flash on your camera, which you should never do.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Restaurants
Moma
Moma is actually a bar and restaurant, so you can stop their early for a drink before dinner, or wait until 7PM and dine there as well. They have a fairly good selection of food which may be considered cosmopolitan and some Piedmont dishes. Both of our dishes were very good and came with rather large portion size which is unusual of Italy.
Moma Restaurant – Pork Filet with French Fries and Coleslaw – Ivrea, Italy
Moma Restaurant – Norwegian Salmon with Potatoes and Eggplant – Ivrea, Italy
On our last couple of days in Lisbon we went across the bowl[1]I note this because it is the lower flat portion of the city the rise gently to the north. and visited the sights in and around the oldest part of the city, Alfama. Then after that we took the 15E Tram and visited Belém, the most important part of the city with respect to ports and its historical noteriety.
Alfama the Other City
This area includes the Moorish Castle of São Jorge and a number of the overlooks that the area enjoys. Of course, there is also Lisbon Cathedral, which actually looks like it might have been destroyed by the great 1755 earthquake and rebuilt afterwards, but the cathedral and area were largely spared from any damage due to that quake.
Lisbon Cathedral – Exterior – Lisbon, Portugal
Perhaps contrary to popular belief, Lisbon and Porto are very busy ALL YEAR. It appears that since RyanAir has a HUB in Porto, everyone and his cousin comes to the area for at least the weekend and many for the entire week. This not doubt puts real stress on Porto, which I can not imagine during the summer when it is really hot and full of tourists.
Lisbon on the other hand is a larger city and can handle more people, however, it has the double wamy of having cruise ships dock as well. So expect the lower parts of Lisbon to be always crowded.
Some walk from the Chiado part of town, where our hotel was located, and across the promenade of R. Augusta, is a totally different part of the city, Alfama. Here you can find the Santa Apolónia train station; in fact, check any train ticket you have that travels to Porto or beyond, and you might notice that it might not be necessary to go all the way to Oriente train station, some of those trains actually start in Santa Apolónia.
Tagus River to the Ocean – Lisbon, Portugal
If you walk the area it is quite steep, so be prepared, or for those less inclined to walk and climb, take an alternate mode of transportation like the 12E Tram, a Tuk-Tuk or the bus.
Overlook of Graça – Lisbon, Portugal
Church of Our Lady of Grace
The Church of Our Lady of Grace stands on top of one of the hills on this side of the city. It has a beautiful ceiling in the nave, but the altar is rather plain and typical among other churches we have seen.
Church of our Lady of Grace – Lisbon, Portugal
Church of our Lady of Grace – Nave – Lisbon, Portugal
Adjacent to the church is the Convent of Grace, which is temporarily being used as a modern art museum. However, it is nice just to drop in and see the fascinating Portuguese tiling that adorns the walls.
Church of our Lady of Grace – Convent – Lisbon, Portugal
Church of our Lady of Grace – Convent – Lisbon, Portugal
Castle of São Jorge
The Castle of São Jorge is a large Moorish castle with a commanding view of the overall area of Lisbon. It has a surrounding wall with a central castle and a number of amenities, including a cafe and a restaurant.
Castle Gate and Wall – Lisbon, Portugal
Castle of São Jorge – Tagus River – Lisbon, Portugal
Castle of São Jorge – Tagus River and Bridge of the 25th of April – Lisbon, Portugal
Though you can purchase tickets at the gate, we found the entire staff appeared to be very confused and we got numerous conflicting stories as to what was available, when and where we had to queue in line. We decided to purchase our tickets online, this was actually quicker and more convienent. However, we still had to stand in a line for about an hour, and it isn’t even tourist season, so bring your patience.
Castle of São Jorge – Lisbon Overlook Area – Lisbon, Portugal
Castle of São Jorge – Points of Interest in Tile – Lisbon, Portugal
Castle of São Jorge – Old Bronze Cannon – Lisbon, Portugal
Castle of São Jorge – Interior – Lisbon, Portugal
Castle of São Jorge – Peacocks – Lisbon, Portugal
Castle of São Jorge – Entrance to Castle proper – Lisbon, Portugal
Castle of São Jorge – Interior of Castle – Lisbon, Portugal
Castle of São Jorge – Interior of Castle, Ramparts – Lisbon, Portugal
Castle of São Jorge – Interior of Castle – Lisbon, Portugal
Castle of São Jorge – Interior of Castle – Lisbon, Portugal
Church of Saint Vincent de Fora
The Church of Saint Vincent de Fora is actually pretty far from everything else, but still walkable. From the Church of Grace and some of the observations points, it can be easily seen in the distance, usually with the National Pantheon dome looming in the frame.
Church of St. Vincent de Fora – Dome of the National Pantheon – Lisbon, Portugal
The interior is actually quite spartan and perhaps not worth the effort. However, for a fee you can enter other portions of the grounds like the sacristy, which is known to be far more opulent than the church itself. Having been in so many churches in the past few months, we decided to save our money and continue our travels.
Saint Vincent de Fora – Exterior – Lisbon, Portugal
Saint Vincent de Fora – Nave and Interior – Lisbon, Portugal
Belém the Port City
Noted in history as the port from which Vasco da Gama departed for his adventures to India, this port town’s most noticeable attribute is it tower. But there is also the monastery, its cloister and the church, all of which represent fabulous examples of the late Gothic Portuguese Manueline style of architecture.
Monastery Square – Lisbon, Portugal
Jerónimos Monastery and the Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem
When you exit the tram the first thing you notice is the Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem across the street. Then the Jerónimos Monastery comes into view, as an extension to these architectural marvels.
Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem – Jerónimos Monastery – Lisbon, Portugal
Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem – Jerónimos Monastery – Lisbon, Portugal
Monastery Square – Lisbon, Portugal
Belém Tower
The Belém Tower, or more precisely, the Tower of Saint Vincent, stands just off shore and was actually a lighthouse in the past.
Belém Tower – Lisbon, Portugal
Belém Tower – Lisbon, Portugal
Restaurants
Rendez Vous
After we visited the Church of St. Vincent we stopped at a small restaurant along the way back called Rendez Vous. They have sort of an eclectic menu which probably does not appeal to everyone, but we found the food and wine very good and would commend the place to anyone looking for something a little different.
Rendez Vour Restaurant – Tuna Salad – Lisbon, Portugal
Rendez Vour Restaurant – Greek Salad, Bread and Fries with Olive Oil and Oregano – Lisbon, Portugal
After a dismal start and a break in the weather, we were able to explore the city of Porto a bit more rigorously. There are probably only a handful of streets that do not go up or down, so have your trekking legs prepared.
Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal
São Bento Train Station
The inner city train station, and perhaps the original Porto Central Station, is the São Bento Train Station. Known for its tiled waiting hall, it is known now more for its artwork than for its use as a primary station; Campahnã having eclipsed it as the main train station now. Unfortunately, it is beset by a very large public works project outside at the moment, so access is through side entrances for the most part.
Sao Bento Train Station – Entry Hall – Porto, Portugal
Sao Bento Train Station – Entry Hall – Porto, Portugal
Sao Bento Train Station – Tracks – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira
A scenic spot on the River Duoro in the center of the old city is the Praça da Ribeira. It has several pieces of art to enjoy and the Cube Fountain, which is surrounded by a myriad of restaurants and cafe tents. It is along the Cias de Ribeira or promenade where you can enjoy a nice walk, listen to music or just enjoy the river.
Praça da Ribeira – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira – Cube Fountain – Porto, Portugal
Luís I Bridge
Between the Praça da Ribeira, RibeiraDoPorto and the other side of the river, or Vila Nova de Gaia, is the Luís I Bridge, which was originally proposed by Gustave Eiffel, even though he did not win the competition to build it.
Praça da Ribeira – Luis I Bridge – Porto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge – Douro River Upstream – Porto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge – Vila Nova de Gaia – Porto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge – View of Praça da Ribeira – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira – Luis I Bridge – Porto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia
On the other side of the river is the area or civil parish of Vila Nova de Gaia. This prefecture or parish you can find many of the great port wine houses, such as Sandeman, Kopke and Warres to name a few. It also has a very nice river side promenade that can be enjoyed on a nice sunny day.
Vila Nova de Gaia – Praça da Ribeira – Porto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia – Sandeman Port – Porto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal
Churches
Our visit here continues with a few other churches, which we were unable to see the previous day.
Church Of Saint Anthony
A regular church by any measure, the church of St. Anthony does have a remarkable gilded altar, which would be the prize of any structure.
Church of Saint Anthony – Outside – Porto, Portugal
Church of Saint Anthony – Nave and Altar – Porto, Portugal
Church of Saint Anthony – Altar – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church
Best known for its Portuguese tiled exterior, the Carmo Church sits on top of the hill next to the Lion Fountain and its park. The tiling on the outside is unfortunately covered with a gauze, no doubt to protect the surface of the tiles from prolonged exposure to the elements, so taking photographs at a distance is probably best.
Tickets For Two – Carmo Church – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Entrance with Church of the Carmelitas on the left – Porto, Portugal
The interior is nice and in the baroque style of churches. Its other claim to fame are the side altars depicting Christ in one form of tribulation or another.
Carmo Church – Nave from above – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Organ – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Nave and Altar – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Nave and Organ from above – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Side Altar – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Side Altar – Porto, Portugal
The Hidden House
Between the Carmo Church and the Church of the Carmelites is the Hidden House. A four story structure built between the two to prevent the appearance of impropriety, though it has had other uses throughout its 250 years.
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
The Museum
The museum of the Carmo Church houses the typical treasure and other important items used and passed down by the church through the years. There are some things of note, like the collection of hands, as well as other peculiar things that have to be seen to believe.
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Restaurants and Cafes
The restaurants and cafes in Porto come in clusters, perhaps due to it being a tourist hot spot. They seem to line most of the more important streets and more heavily trafficked areas.
Casa Deolinda
A good spot for lunch would be the Casa Deolinda right within the Praça da Ribeira. We actually felt more compelled to eat here only due to the weather, but we were not disappointed. The food was good and the service was above what we had experienced in other places. The prices were not too bad either, considering its location.
Praça da Ribeira – Restaurant Deolinda – Porto, Portugal
Restaurant Deolinda – Vegetable Soup with Tuna Salad – Porto, Portugal
Restaurant Deolinda – Vegetable Soup with Cod Fish Fritters and Hot Chocolate – Porto, Portugal
The weather too, did not disappoint.
Fabrica da Nata Cafe
Known for its Portuguese Nata, or Pastel de Nata, are a custard cream delight found at Fabrica da Nata. There is a special little room within the cafe where they prepare these treats inside a glass enclosure. The cappuccino in Portugal is bit different from its Italian parent, it has more milk and is usually not as strong.
Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Making Pastries – Porto, Portugal
Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Inside – Porto, Portugal
Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Breakfast – Porto, Portugal
Popina Restaurant
On the smaller scale, if you are looking for an authentic Portuguese adventure in cuisine, look no further than Popina. They have classic dishes here that are served like appetizers and are meant to be shared, so think family-style in a way. You select several items from the menu, all of which are brought out when they are ready, and them divide them accordingly. The order in which they are brought out though can appear a bit confused and disorderly, but bear with the process and you should not be disappointed.
Due to the fact that we came back to Bari for one night, since our return flight leaves out of Bari airport, we thought one last post on other things we had not mentioned in our prior posts might be in order. We booked and stayed again at Murex Bed and Breakfast, and sometimes when you’ve already been in a town or city, that may make all the difference.
Corso Regina Elena – Trani, Italy
We enjoyed our stay in Bari, but felt that if it weren’t for its location to other places that interested us, we probably would have just done a day trip to it. So, I would consider it more a place of convenience than one you can sink your teeth into and really enjoy, like Trani.
Various Other Points Of Interest In The City
Below are some of the other points of interest that can be easy to miss just walking around looking at the next pin on your map. This is one advantage of slow travel, having the time just to meander around and have a proper Stadtbummel. One word of caution, if you plan on taking a walk along the Lungomare Araldo di Crollalanza make sure the wind is blowing out to sea. The water surrounded by the Faro Molo Sant’Antonio is a real sewer and stinks.
Via Vittorio Emanuelle – Bari, Italy
Micuzzi building – Bari, Italy
Teatro Margherita – Bari, Italy
Teatro Petruzzelli – Bari, Italy
Lungomare Araldo di Crollalanza – A real sewer – Bari, Italy
Bari Centralé
The main train station in Bari is a must for those taking day trips in and out of the city. It is approximately a fifteen to twenty minute walk from the historic center straight down the main shopping avenue of Via Sparano da Bari. It connects with all forms of TrennItalia trains and some regional trains as well.
Bari Centrale train station – Bari, Italy
Restaurants
Some final thoughts on restaurants in Bari. The below are some of the places we visited when we just didn’t know what to do, the weather was cooperating or we were just looking for something different.
Saporé Cucineria Pugliese
Saporé has authentic Pugliese Cuisine and snack food and is located on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. Nothing fancy here, just good home cooking with traditional food items, Apulia’s answer to fast food. Don’t worry, you shouldn’t break your wallet at this establishment. Even the wine is reasonably priced.
Menu – Saporé Cucineria Pugliese – Bari, Italy
Deep fried pizza bits with sea salt – Saporé Cucineria Pugliese – Bari, Italy
Panzerotti Ricotta Forte – Saporé Cucineria Pugliese – Bari, Italy
Panzerotti Ricotta Forte – Saporé Cucineria Pugliese – Bari, Italy
Da Michele Pizzeria
The famous pizza of Naples comes to Bari with Da Michele’s Pizzeria. His classic thin crust and speedy service never disappoints. If you are looking for something in a pinch, don’t have a lot of time, or are just tired of eating Pugliese cuisine, Da Michele’s Pizzeria will have something for you. It is located on the corner of Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and Via Benedetto Petrone.
Da Michele Pizzeria – Original Neapolitan Pizza – Bari, Italy
Da Michele Pizzeria – Margherita Pizza – Bari, Italy
Da Michele Pizzeria – BaBa pastry – Bari, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Pechino
If you are someone who needs a fix of Chinese food every once in a while like me, then Ristorante Cinese Pechino might suit your needs. It was a five minute walk just inside Murat from our Bed & Breakfast in the historic district.
The food is a bit on the salty side, as I found the Maiale con Cipolle (pork and onions in brown sauce). However, the Wonton Soup was very good as were the Involtini Primavera.
Though some people choose to ignore basilicas, cathedrals and churches for whatever reason, Lecce is home to more than just a few. It seems that with almost every bend in the street, there is another one waiting to be entered by the faithful or curious. The truth probably is, that most visitors are just that, visitors and tourists.
Lecce’s Basilicas, Cathedrals And Churches
The Basilica di Santa Croce was the first basilica or church we visited, only because that is where we purchased our tickets. Yes, the most significant basilicas and churches in Lecce have a fee, 10€ per person, which gives you two weeks of access to all the places listed on the ticket. As of this writing, the following were accessible[1]please note: the names may appear slightly different or abbreviated on your ticket:
Basilica di Santa Croce
Il Duomo – Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant’Oronzo
Cripta della Cattedrale
Chiesa di San Matteo
Chiesa di Santa Chiara
Basilica di Santa Croce
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano
Biblioteca Bernardini – Convitto Palmieri
Chiostro Antico Seminario – Palazzo del Seminario
Basilica di Santa Croce
The Basilica di Santa Croce is located on via Umberto I and was the first one church on the list that we visited, only because that is where we purchased our tickets.
Basilica di Santa Croce – Outside – Lecce, Italy
Basilica di Santa Croce – Right Aisle – Lecce, Italy
Basilica di Santa Croce – Ceiling – Lecce, Italy
Basilica di Santa Croce – The Crossing and Ceiling – Lecce, Italy
Basilica di Santa Croce – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Basilica di Santa Croce – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Basilica di Santa Croce – Nave and Altar – Lecce, Italy
Basilica di Santa Croce – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Il Duomo – Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant’Oronzo
The Duomo in Lecce is also referred to as the Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant’Oronzo, or the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption and Saint Orontius, or simple the Lecce Cathedral, and is laid out like a proper Latin cathedral.
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – From Piazza Il Duomo – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Bell Tower – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Main Entrance and Facade – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Side Entrance – Lecce, Italy
The impressive nave, crossing and transepts are in the Baroque style and do not resemble other more impressive Gothic Cathedrals you will find in Europe, nonetheless there are things to see!
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Main Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Nave – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Right Aisle – Lecce, Italy
There a multiple radiating chapels, altar and two rather elegant transepts that one should admire for some time.
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Andrew the Apostle (1687), Right Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Charles Borromeo, Right Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Radiating Chapel or Altar, Right Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Giusto (1656), Right Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Our Lady of Sorrows, Right Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – John the Baptist (1682), Left Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Radiating Chapel or Altar, Left Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Side Entrance, Left Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – The martyrdom of Saint Giusto (1674), Left Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Anthony of Padua (also from 1674), Left Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Orontius of Lecce (1671), Right Transept Altar – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – The Immaculate Conception (1689), Left Transept Altar – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – The Crucifixion of Jesus and the Blessed Sacrament (1780), Left Transept – Lecce, Italy
The ceiling is also a marvel. Built from wood, it is intricately woven into a grand geometric pattern for anyone to enjoy.
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Apse and Crossing Ceiling – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Nave Ceiling and Organ – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Nave Ceiling by Crossing – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Ceiling – Lecce, Italy
Cripta della Cattedrale
The Cripta della Cattedrale, or the Crypt of the Cathedral, was restored in 2017 to its present condition. However, archaeological activities are still ongoing and work appears in some areas to have only started. The rest of the crypt, with the exception of a few painting, appears rather sterile.
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Patti entering the Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Closed Exit, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Entry into Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Sarcophagus, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Vaulted Ceiling and Altar, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Side Altar, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Side Altar, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Side Altar, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Restored in 2017, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Archaeological Artifacts from the Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Archaeological Site, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Archaeological Site, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Matteo
The Chiesa di San Matteo, or Church of Saint Matthew, is small and very ornate and well decorated inside for its size. The marble was unquestionably carved by master craftsmen on top of their game.
Chiesa di San Matteo – Outside or Facade – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Matteo – Outside or Facade – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Matteo – Left Wall along the Nave – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Matteo – Right Wall along the Nave – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Matteo – Ambo or Pulpit – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Matteo – Nave – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Matteo – Side or Radiating Chapel – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara
The Chiesa di Santa Chiara , or Church of Saint Claire, is a beautiful Baroque church in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II in Lecce. It has some marvelous side altars honoring some of the important saints from the area.
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Outside and Facade – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Ceiling – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra
The Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra, or Sacred Art Museum, has a unique collection of religious artifacts of Catholic origins from the area.
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Main Hall – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Sacred Paintings and Art – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Sacred Paintings and Art – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Sacred Paintings and Art – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Sacred Paintings and Art – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Sacred Paintings and Art – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Saint Oronzo – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Other Sacred Works – Lecce, Italy
Other Basilicas, Cathedrals And Churches
There are a number of other cathedrals and churches worth your attention. Most map applications and a good map from a hotel, B&B or rental may have them marked. As of this writing, none of these cathedrals or churches required any entry fee or donation.
Basilica Del Rosario E Di San Giovanni Battista
The Basilica Del Rosario E Di San Giovanni Battista, or the Basilica of the Rosary and of Saint John the Baptist, was under restoration when we visited. The outside appears to be falling the street and they have erected scaffolding to protect the public. Inside, the entire roof trusses under the crossing were under reconstruction. Aside from that, the inside was rather bare and actually looked like a construction site, so aside from the alters which are still in place, there is not must else to see.
Basilica del Rosario e di San Giovanni Battista – Outside and Facade – Lecce, Italy
Basilica del Rosario e di San Giovanni Battista – Inside with bare Cupola, Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia
Located directly across from the Roman amphitheater on via Ernesto Alvino and near the Castello Carlo V di Lecce (Castle Charles of Lecce) , is another excellent choice to visit.
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Outside – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Nave and Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Religious Painting in Foyer – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Intricate Ceiling – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Carving on Wood – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Carving on Wood – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa Del Gesu Del Buon Consiglio
Another church that you may enter for no fee is the Chiesa Del Gesu Del Buon Consiglio which is on the Strada Romana, or the Roman street, referred to today as Via Francesco Rubichi. The ornate altar and backdrop of the Apse is worth a stop. This along with the amazing wooden ceiling, these two things are demand some consideration and adoration.
Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Outside – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – A Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Side Altar of Mary with Baby Jesus – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Nave Showing Renovations – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Ceiling – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Provvidenza O Delle Alcantoarine
The Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Provvidenza o Delle Alcantoarine, or the Church of Saint Mary of Providence or the Alcantoarine has a beautiful altar and wonderful Morena Glass chandelier along with a very simple interior.
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Provvidenza o Delle Alcantoarine – Outside – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Provvidenza o Delle Alcantoarine – Nave and Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Porta O Di San Luigi Gonzaga
The Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Porta O Di San Luigi Gonzaga, or the Church of Saint Mary of the Gate or of San Louis Gonzaga is another free church that you can stop in and admire very near to the Porta Napoli. Simple for its layout, its architecture is developed around a dome, rather than the traditional church layout.
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Porta o di San Luigi Gonzaga – Outside – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Porta o di San Luigi Gonzaga – Inside – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Niccolo dei Greci
Unable to enter, we were only able to take a photograph of the facade or outside of the church.
Chiesa di San Niccolo dei Greci – Outside – Lecce, Italy
Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo
The small chapel of Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo is located very near to the Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra, or Sacred Art Museum; in fact, it right at the end of that tour.
Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo – Lecce, Italy
Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo – Altar – Lecce, Italy
The second largest city in Apulia is called Lecce and is located on the Salentine Peninsula of Italy. It is rich in Baroque architecture, most of which is in the form of Lecce limestone and is often referred to as the Florence of the South. It one of the oldest settlements in southern Italy, with activity dating back to neolithic times.
Getting There
From Brindisis, or most other larger towns and cities on the east coast of Mezzogiorno, the FrecciaArgento is perhaps to quickest way to arrive. From Brindisi it is a short twenty three minute ride, a bit longer on the regional trains.
Lecce Train Station – Lecce, Italy
The City
Lecce is a typical ancient city which was at one time circumscribed with a protective wall with three main gates. The streets in the old Città Vecchia, or old history city, are narrow and mostly paved with stones.
Typical city street – Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Castromediano – Lecce, Italy
Narrow carless streets – Lecce, Italy
Old Roman columned wall – Lecce, Italy
The government here must be very careful of the city center, since it appears to have mitigated much of the traffic you would normally find in other similar cities of this size, making pedestrian traffic all that more enjoyable.
Palazzo Lecciso – Lecce, Italy
Interesting balcony supports – Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Castromediano – Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Di Giustizia – Lecce, Italy
Ports, Gates, Columns And Castles
There are numerous ports, gates, columns and obelisks in Lecce. These are spread out all of the city and are well labeled on most maps. The Triumphal Arch, or Porta Napoli, is the largest and one of the three gates to enter the Città Vecchia.
Porta di Napoli – Front – Lecce, Italy
Porta di Napoli – Back – Lecce, Italy
Porta di Napoli – Back – Lecce, Italy
Porta di Napoli – Back – Lecce, Italy
There is also the Porta San Biagio and a smaller one called the Arco di Prato, or Arch of Prato, which is somewhat hidden away within the narrow city streets.
Porta San Biagio – Lecce, Italy
The Arch of Prato – Lecce, Italy
Arch of Prato – Lecce, Italy
The Obelisk of Terra d’Otranto can be seen close to the Porta Napoli and is rather tall. It was erected in 1822 in honor of one of the rulers of the Two Sicilies. On the other side of town one can find the War Memorial for soldiers lost in war.
Porta di Napoli – Obelisco di Terra d’Otranto – Lecce, Italy
War Memorial – Lecce, Italy
In the Piazza Saint Oronzo you will find the Colonna di Sant’Oronzo, or the Column of Saint Oronzo. It is a tall pedestal with Saint Oronzo on top. The column itself was assembled from pieces of the one that fell apart in Brindisi in the mid sixteenth century, its twin can be found near the port of that city.
Column of Saint Oronzo – Lecce, Italy
The Castello de Carlo V, or Castle of Charles V sits on the eastern edge of the historic city and below the Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens. It is a large structure and tours are offered, all of which are guided, so you cannot tour the grounds unaccompanied. A short walk from there you will the public park or gardens, which is always a good stop to rest your feet after a few hours of walking.
Castello Carlo V di Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Castello Carlo V di Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens – Lecce, Italy
Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens – Fountain – Lecce, Italy
Roman Ruins
Lecce has in its old historic city not one, but two Roman amphitheaters. Unfortunately for us, both were being restored while we visited and photography was very difficult in both cases.
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater, 2nd Century – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater, 2nd Century – Lecce, Italy
Where We Stayed
For the second time on this trip we have booked a Bed and Breakfast. I still cannot say I am fan, but there are times when alternatives to hotels may make a better fit. However, we only commit to such alternatives directly and after thorough research.
L’Orangerie d’Epoque
We stayed at a Bed and Breakfast called L’Orangerie d’Epoque on Viale Francesco Lo Re near the Porta San Biagio. A rather large building with a central portico that appears to have one owner.
L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Entryway and Portico – Lecce, Italy
Our room was on the ground floor with its own entrance to the portico. The entryway has a beautiful mosaic tiled floor, reminiscent of ancient Rome or Pompeii.
L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Entrance Mosaic and Door – Lecce, Italy
The room was spacious, with a fireplace and split up into almost four equal parts. There was a large dining area by the entrance that flowed into a living room with several couches.
This small restaurant has good food and wine at fairly reasonable prices. We actually went there late for lunch, around 14:40 and they still took our order and served us.
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
The service was very good and the menu had a decent choice of both local cuisine and other more general Italian items to chose.
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Front of the Building – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Entrance, Cassa and Wines – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Wines – Lecce, Italy
I ordered the Eggplant Polpette in Ragu Sauce with Ricotta Cheese, an Insalata Mista (mixed salad) and the Orecchiette with re-milled Semolina with Scottona Red Ragu and Patti ordered the Ciceri and Tria Pasta and shared my Polpette. All the dishes were very good. The wine was Negroamaro from the region and it was very good, served by the glass. The desserts you can see below and the espresso was also very good, not bitter at all.
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Eggplant Polpette in Ragu Sauce with Ricotta Cheese – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Insalata Mista – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Ciceri and Tria Pasta – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Orecchiette with re-milled Semolina with Scottona Red Ragu – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Salted Pistachio Semifreddo with Chocolate Crunchy, Martucci Spumone Hazelnut Chocolate – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Espresso and Molinari Sambuca – Lecce, Italy
Miro Wine And Lounge
We stopped here for a drink and decided on a quick bite to eat, since we were both getting hungry and it was only a little passed eleven. We were actually surprised they were serving lunch.
Miro Wine and Lounge – Patti outside waiting for soup – Lecce, Italy
Miro Wine and Lounge – Erick outside waiting for soup with a glass of red – Lecce, Italy
While we waited, I ordered a glass of Negroamaro from Puglia, a very nice wine that reminds me of Barbera. They had a nice bean and cereal soup on the menu that Patti and I decided to try and it was magnificent.
Miro Wine and Lounge – Bean and Cereal soup with Croutons – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo
The restaurant Tranquillo is a more modern restaurant with two locations in Lecce, we chose the one located at Piazza Sant’Oronzo. The service and food were very good.
Tranquillo – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Menu – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Inside – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Inside – Lecce, Italy
We dined late again at around 14:30, opting for a larger lunch and skipping dinner. We find this preferrable to eating again late in the evening and going to bed with a full stomach, something that we find does not lend itself to a good night sleep as we get older. I ordered the Apulian Bombette with Cheese on greens with a side order of Potato al Forno and Cicorie (Chickory), and Patti ordered the Cicorie on Pureed Fava Beans.
Tranquillo – Chicory side and Chicory on Pureed Fava Beans – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Potatoes al Forno, Ricetta Bombette with cheese and a glass of red wine – Lecce, Italy
