Known for balsamic vinegar, it also has a variety of other things to see and enjoy. Though we both couldn’t see spending more than a day here, unless of course the purpose is using it as a homebase for day trips elsewhere. The irony of it all is, you would think we would have at least tried balsamic while we were here, we did not.
Via Cesare Battista – Modena, Italy
Modena
Famously known for balsamic, Modena contains a few other points of interest, it twelfth century cathedral, as well as its own leaning tower. It has a market place, similar to other Italian towns and cities, which is actually inside for the most part and appears to function every day. The main street for shopping is most likely via Emilia Centro, it has porticos on one side and appears to have all the brand name shop one would expect to see.
Corso Vittorio Emanuelle II – Modena, Italy
Military Academy of Modena – Modena, Italy
Via Emilia Centro – Modena, Italy
Via Emilia Centro – Modena, Italy
Via Emilia Centro – Modena, Italy
Preda Ringadora – Modena, Italy
Getting There
Thirty to forty minutes from Parma by train, Modena can be reached with only a few stops along the way for the regional train, or one stop if the InterCity train is used as an option. The train station in Modena and spartan and clean, as well as the neighborhood around it.
Entrance – Train Station – Modena, Italy
Comunale Palazzo
A civic building known as the Comunale Palazzo, was used in the past by the town council for official business and ceremonies. Outside and to the left of it, is the Preda Ringadora, a large piece of marble from Roman times used as a speaker’s platform; its present day means to “orate”. However, historians also say it was likely used as a pillory and also used to identify corpses which were laid out on it. In any case, it is commonly used today as a seat and a place of repose.
Preda Ringadora – Modena, Italy
It is open and free to the public and has a handful of rooms that may be visited, which contain frescoes.
Clock Tower and Front – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Stairs to Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
The palazzo is best known for its Hall of Fire. It is a term of endearment, assigned to it by the public to indicate that it was the hall containing the fireplace where back in the day, they could collect hot coals to warm themselves on the street during cold winter evenings. However, it is better known for the paintings that adorn the ceiling and walls that are the most impressive. Painted in the middle sixteenth century by Nicolò dell’Abate which depict episodes in Roman history that affected Modena as a town and city.
Frescoes in the Hall of Fire – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Frescoes in the Hall of Fire – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Fresco on Fireplace in the Hall of Fire – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Frescoes in the Hall of Fire – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Old Door and Iron Hinges in the Hall of Fire – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Fireplace in the Hall of Fire – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
The Council Hall is where meetings would be held with respect to the town’s business. Electors would assemble here to discuss important matters of the day, planning and other administrative tasks.
Ceiling in the Hall of the Old Council – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Ceiling in the Hall of the Old Council – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Meeting Table in the Hall of the Old Council – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Hall of the Old Council – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
There are also a Tapestry and a Wedding Hall. Neither is of any great import, except for the paintings that adorn each.
Ceiling – Wedding Hall – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Organ – Wedding Hall – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
At the back entrance to the palazzo is a statue of Perseus holding the severed head of Medusa. It can be seen directly by way of the back entrance stairwell. Or, when the back entrance doors are open, it can be seen from the street flanked on either side by old maps of Modena.
Back Stairs to Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Back Stairs to Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Perseus with the head of Medusa – Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Fortification Map of Modena – Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Old Map of Modena – Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Civic Tower
Located adjacent to the cathedral is the Civic Tower. Yes, the Civic Tower leans and not by a little, a lot. Comparable to those leaning towers in Bologna and Pisa it’s not that impressive, but it is very noticeable when judged from a distance, using other buildings as a reference.
Civic Tower – Modena, Italy
Cathedrals and Churches
Cathedral of Modena
The Cathedral of Modena, or precisely Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption and Saint Geminianus[1]Saint Germinianus is Modena’s patron saint and who’s tomb, dating back to the fifth century, was part of one of the original churches erected on the same site., or colloquially and affectionately known as Il Duomo as in other Italian towns and cities. The main entrance has several tympanums above each door, depicting the biblical stories of Adam and Eve.
Front and Entrance – Cathedral of Modena – Modena, Italy
From outside it appears to have been rebuilt several times, many of the blocks that make up the facade of the structure do not match in many places. Though odd, the outside follows typical Romanesque architecture, with semi-circular arches that are filled in with brick and other appointments, with the exception of the large Piazza Portal on the north side, which almost functions as the main entrance.
Right Side – Cathedral of Modena – Modena, Italy
Cathedral of Modena and Civic Tower – Modena, Italy
The cathedral lacks a dome, instead having parapets on each of the four corners. It is sectioned in four places, reveals at the roof level as wall extending upwards, which coincide with the four internal arches for the nave. The inside is rather plain and mainly composed of bare brick. At the time we were there, a service was being held, limiting our ability to take more photographs.
Nave – Cathedral of Modena – Modena, Italy
Aisle – Cathedral of Modena – Modena, Italy
Restaurants
For our day trip, we ate at a local place right off the Piazza Grande which promised to have good food at a fair price.
Enoteca Al Duomo
We ate lunch here on recommendations that we read online. Our seating was inside, since the temperature outside was starting to become a bit annoying. The food and service were good and we spent an enjoyable hour discussing Modena and what else, if anything, there was to see in the city.
Interior – Enoteca Al Duomo – Grande Piazza – Modena, Italy
Insalata Mista and Tagliatella Bolognese – Enoteca Al Duomo – Grande Piazza – Modena, Italy
Il Pilotta
Located in our hotel, Hotel Stendhal in Parma, we enjoyed our last meal in the area at La Pilotta. The Cappelletti is broth is common for this area and can be commended. Our main dishes were Italian in general and good, though I did not care for the stuffing in the pork tip. The menu said it was potato, but it tasted more like a polenta or some other grain and it had an odd taste for me.
Cappelletti in Broth – La Pilotta Restaurant – Stendhal Hotel – Parma, Italy
Eggplant Parmigiana – La Pilotta Restaurant – Stendhal Hotel – Parma, Italy
Stuffed Pork Tip with Potatoes – La Pilotta Restaurant – Stendhal Hotel – Parma, Italy
Saint Germinianus is Modena’s patron saint and who’s tomb, dating back to the fifth century, was part of one of the original churches erected on the same site.
Since we like to travel at a slower pace, we tend to stay longer in towns and cities we visit, even if the stay may be unwarranted. This gives us a better feel for the places we have visited, but then you run the risk of running out of things to do. When this happens, we visit churches, the odd museum or other eccentric distractions that typically wouldn’t come up on a visitor’s radar. Here are a few examples.
Distractions in Parma
Teatro Regio
The Regio Theater is situated on Garibaldi just past the Pilotta on the right. Tickets may be purchased directly from them, however there are only guided tours in any one of several languages.
Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Tickets For Two – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Lobby – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
The outside and entrance are rather plain and nothing compared to La Scala or other prominent theaters in Italy. However, it does have a very critical local audience that only excepts high standards and sticking to tradition. So event organizers must plan carefully, lest to lose the wrath of the local perfectionists.
Box Seating Left – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Box Seating Right – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Ceiling Details
Ceiling Details – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Box Seating Left – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
View from Box Seat – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Box Seating from Stage – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Main Seating – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Originally decorated in the color blue, it has since been redesigned and redecorated by the Duchess Marie Louise of Parma in red. The walls are covered in box seats. When the duchess was still alive, the first floor seating, on the same level as the duchess’ box seat, were the most expensive. The very top level has no box seating, but rather standing room only for the commoner who could purchase a cheaper ticket and at least stand and hear the performances. The floor seating, though now the most expensive, were the cheaper seats in her day.
Chandelier in Box Seat of the Duke and Duchess – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Smaller Chandelier in Ante Room – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Marie Louise Duchess of Parma – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Duke – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
The box seating is nothing special, they actually look rather uncomfortable. Each used to be paired with an out room, where the ticket holder could throw a small party, bring something to eat and enjoy, or engage in other activities. The box seats and ancillary room across the hall used to be privately owned. Now the owners have been divested of the box seating, but still hold ownership rights to this ancillary rooms, which they cannot use unless they are in attendance. An odd arrangement that the theater owner, city and box seat owners agreed to some time ago, in order to prevent the theater from going bankrupt.
Hallway – Box Seating Right, Extra Rooms Left – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Typical Box Seat – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Typical Ancillary Rooms – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Churches and Cathedrals
Parma, as any Italian city, is host to numerous churches and cathedrals. The most important and interesting ones we found follow.
Parma Cathedral
The Romanesque architecture of the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, also known as the Parma Duomo or the Cathdral of Parma, must be on anyone’s list of places to visit in Parma. The ceiling by Correggio warrants a good ten to twenty minute inspection.
Facade and Tower – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Main Entrance and Right Lion – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Main Entrance and Left Lion – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Nave Frescoes and Ceiling – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Nave – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Nave Frescoes and Ceiling – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Aisle Ceiling – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
The nave is decorated by numerous frescoes and art of the twelfth century and depict the stories of faith that were common at that time.
Nave – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Madonna Side Altar in Transept – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Altar – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Altar, Organ and Crossing Ceilings – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Organ – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Ceiling in Crossing – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Left Aisle with Confessionals – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Main Entrance Frescoes – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Nave Frescoes – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Nave Frescoes and Ceiling – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Nave Frescoes and Ceiling – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Marquetry in Bishop Pews – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Each aisle contains about six chapels, decorated and commemorated to different aspects of the faith, some used more than others.
Chapel 1 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 2 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 3 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 6 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 4 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 5 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 7 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 8 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 9 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 10 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 11 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Side Altar and Transept – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Parma Baptistry
Adjacent to the Cathedral of Parma is the Baptistry. From the outside it is a rather tall eight side building that is elegantly carved on the outside with many different depictions of creatures and people, some flaunting animal appendages, while others appear almost mythological.
Piazza Duomo – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta and Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Front and Main Entrance – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
The main entrance faces northward and is adorned with a tympanum and other decorations, much like westward facing entrance. The rear entrance is less attactive and not as ornate as the other two, for reasons unknown.
Tympanum and Right Side Entry Details Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Tympanum and Left Side Entry Details Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Marble Relief Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Marble Relief Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Marble Relief Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Marble Relief Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Marble Relief Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Marble Relief Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
From the inside, the Baptistry appears as a sixteen sided room with the font in the middle of the space. Each of the walls has a fresco on it and other architectural details. The ceiling is frescoed as well as a series of sixteen triangular paintings.
Today there is a collection of artistic statues placed along some of the walls, depicting the two seasons of Winter and Summer, as well as all of the months of the year.
Winter and Spring – Statues – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
May, April and March – Statues – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
August, July and June – Statues – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
November, October and September – Statues – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
February, January and December – Statues – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Church of San Giovanni Evangelista
Under construction at the time, the church exhibits the fanciful, if not frustrating looks of a construction site so familiar to those who travel Europe.
Facade – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Nave Floor – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Altar – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Even the interior lacked lighting, so it was difficult to see much, let alone take decent photographs.
Aisle – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Aisle and Side Chapels – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Transept Chapel – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Nave and Altar – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Transept Chapel and Organ – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Small Chapel off Left Transept – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Complex of San Paolo
Not far from the intersection of Strada G. Garibaldi and Strada Macedonio Melloni is the complex of San Paolo. There are signs near the street by the entrance, but you have to walk a wooded entry some distance before reaching the ticket office. There you can purchase tickets for both the Rooms of San Paolo and the Puppet Museum.
Entrance – Complex of San Paolo – Parma, Italy
Rooms of Saint Paul
Better known as the Camera di San Paolo, the rooms in this museum are part of the Benedictine Monestary that stood on this spot starting in the 11th century.
Tickets For Two – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Frescoes in Smaller Room – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Frescoes in Smaller Room – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Frescoes in Smaller Room – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Frescoes in Smaller Room – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Statue – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Old Ceiling – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Aging Frescoes – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Old Frescoes – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Old Frescoes – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Entrance Fresco of Last Supper – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
In one room, the frescoes painted on the walls and ceilings are from one of the areas famous painters, Correggio, and were done sometime in the 16th century.
Correggio’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Correggio’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Correggio’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Correggio’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Correggio’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Fireplace Inscription – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
The museum also has a vaulted frescoed ceiling from Alessandro Araldi dedicated to Saint Catherine.
Alessandro Araldi’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Alessandro Araldi’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Alessandro Araldi’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Alessandro Araldi’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Alessandro Araldi’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Inscription over Fireplace – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Fireplace – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Lintel Inscription and Fine Doors – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum
Founded by Italo Ferrari, a peasant and apprentice shoemaker, turned his love of puppetry and puppeteering into an obsession. After failing several times in his twenties and thirties, he took on other jobs to support himself. It wasn’t until he perfected his art after the turn of the century and his repertoire from only tragedies, but to also include comedies and variety acts, was he able to devote full time and energy to his passion.
Entrance – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Small Portable Stage – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 18 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 11 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Puppets at Entry – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Information – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
He died in 1961 at the ripe old of 84, after having several successful radio and tv presentations. From then on, his son Giordano took up his mantel and later rebranded the act as the Ferrari Company, not to be confused with the eponymous car manufacturer.
Example of Details – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
It is with the wish or his son and family to preserve this important social and artful legacy, that the family was finally able to secure funding and the means to open this museum. The museum even hosts events and of course, puppet shows, however only when the current company is not touring internationally. The shows are mainly geared around fairy tales and other fables, especially tales around good and bad people, including everyone’s favority, the devil.
Display 3 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 4 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 5 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 6 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 7 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 12 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 9 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 10 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Some of the puppets they have at their disposal seem to also indicate a predilection for the Zanni, having representations of the characters Harlequin[1]He is the dockworker, the porter, the pimp, the good servant, simple in manner and mind, who gets into trouble and is always hungry. This is Harlequin. He derives from the figure of the Zanni, the … Continue reading, Pulcinello[2]Pulcinella is both good and bad, rude and sometimes affected. Unlike Harlequin, a “sidekick,” but manages to be independent on stage, competing even with only one antagonist at a time. … Continue reading and other Commedia dell’Arte puppets.
Display 1 – Pulcinello in lower right in white – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 2 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 24 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 25 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 26 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 27 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Carving – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Old Advertisements – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Small Portable Stage – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display of Circuits Used for Stages – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Restaurants
Uagliò Restaurant
A smaller chain restaurant with a few stores around the area, Uagliò is not a bad pick if you are in a hurry or have not made other plans. We were hungry for lunch, so we stopped to see what they had to offer. The pasta with meatballs in sauce was very good, as was the small mixed salad. There was plenty of seating inside and out.
Mixed Salad and Paccheri with Tomato Sauce and Meatballs, Tuna salad in back – Uaglio Restaurant – Parma, Italy
He is the dockworker, the porter, the pimp, the good servant, simple in manner and mind, who gets into trouble and is always hungry. This is Harlequin. He derives from the figure of the Zanni, the jester of comic tales documented as early as the 14th century. From the Zanni, Harlequin retains the frank character and natural propensity for mischief. Harlequin’s costume, known by all as the most colorful of masks, was initially white and tattered; for this reason, first a patch was added, then another, until the outfit was multi-colored diamonds. This is how we see him in 17th-century theater. His appearance is clumsy and stocky, the black half-mask he wears is animalistic, and on his head he wears a white felt hat topped with a feather or a rabbit’s foot. The feather is a symbol of fertility and the rabbit is a symbol of cunning. From his belt hangs the baòcio, the polenta stirring stick, which serves as his sword. He also has a bump on his forehead, which some believe to be the remnants of a devil’s horn. The name Harlequin, in fact, recalls that of a devil. Alichino is the devil mentioned by Dante in the Divine Comedy.
Pulcinella is both good and bad, rude and sometimes affected. Unlike Harlequin, a “sidekick,” but manages to be independent on stage, competing even with only one antagonist at a time. Pulcinella wears a white shirt with a gathered waist, white trousers with a belt, a white felt conical hat, and a half-mask with a large, slightly hooked nose. The costume is similar to that worn by peasants since the Middle Ages; they are made out of hemp, the cheapest home-woven fiber, and no color to avoid the cost of dye. Pulcinella is a poor man. These masks form the original core of the Commedia dell’Arte.
Approximately two to two and a half hours away from our place in Turin is the city of Parma. Known for ham, cheese and other delicacies in the region, we had been wanting to go there for some time. Our recent visit was for us full of surprises, including the Pilotta Museum Complex, which was a pleasure for us and central to this post.
Parma
At first we were not too sure about the city. Our first impressions, and to some extent our lasting ones as well, is that it is laid out in a chaotic fashion, even for an Italian town. The mixture of new and old on the outskirts is not very pleasing to the eye and is kind of takes away from the central historic part of the city, which frankly is not very large.
Palazzo Tarasconi – Parma, Italy
Palazzo Bossi Bocchi – Parma, Italy
Governor’s Palace – Parma, Italy
The Parma river as well, suffers from drought and over-irrigation, a mere trickle of its former self. Called a torrente in Italian, or torrent, one can only wonder when the last time the river actually enjoyed that much water.
Torrente Parma – Ponte Caprazucca – Parma, Italy
Torrente Parma – Ponte Caprazucca – Parma, Italy
Torrente Parma – Ponte Caprazucca – Parma, Italy
Ponte Verdi – Parma, Italy
The city does not suffer from tourism and we found the historic parts very pleasant to walk around. There is not much to see, hence our reason for visiting the museums, which we found different and interesting.
We took the FrecciaRossa train from Turin to Milan, then the Regional from Milan to Parma. The regional trains make more stops than the high speed trains, taking an extra half hour to make the hour long trip by high speed rail. The good news is, there are options between Milan and Parma, from FrecciaRossa, Italo, TrenItalia FTP to TrenNord and perhaps more. Our selection was based on scheduling and nothing else.
Strada Cavour
The main street for shopping in the city. It was about a ten minute walk from our hotel and winds its way through the older part of the city, though all of the businesses are modern. You will find all the modern, trendy and chain-like stores here, along with their inflated prices.
Strada Cavour – Parma, Italy
Strada Cavour – Parma, Italy
Strada Cavour – Parma, Italy
Strada Cavour – Parma, Italy
Hotel Stendhal
We stayed at the Hotel Stendhal, a fifteen minute direct walk from the train station. Though we read some concerning reviews on some travel sites, we did not have any issues at all and had the most enjoyable stay. The staff was great and we never had to ask for anything. We had a large superior room on the side of the hotel which was very quiet and comfortable, along with a complimentary breakfast.
Outside Our Hotel – Cortile del Guazzatoio – Parma, Italy
Entrance – Hotel Stendhal – Parma, Italy
Foyer – Hotel Stendhal – Parma, Italy
Pilotta Museum Complex
The Pilotta Museum Complex is the former Faranese Palace that now houses five or six museums, some of which were not open at the time of our visit.
Ponte Verdi – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Tickets For Two – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Entrance – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Parma
The archeological museum offers artifacts from the ancient history in and around Parma. Here are exhibits of the ancient civilizations of the Roman Empire, Greeks and Etruscans who inhabited the Po river valley and the surrounding area thousands of years ago.
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
The museum also has a display of ancient Roman tombs, including sarcophogy and examples of mummified remains.
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Farnese Theater
The Farnese Theater is actually a rather bizarre construction. Built within a very large room of the palace is a theater that was constructed quickly, in order to entertain some political majistrate of the Medici family. However, the event never took place and subsequent to it completion, it was only used eight or nine times.
It eventually succumbed to allied bombings in the mid 1940s and was almost completely destroyed and then rebuilt later, for cultural reasons. Though none of the plaster exterior has never been replaced, as is evident by the missing ceiling, it still enjoys a woddy charm. Luckily, the old frescoes survived and can still be seen today.
Backstage Elements – Farnese Theater – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Galleria Nazionale di Parma
The entrance to the National Gallery is flanked by two huge statues. One of Dionysus and the other or Hercules. They are both impressive in their own right, with the one of Hercules looking like it is right on the boundary of the human anatomy.
Hercules – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Dionysus – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
The rest of the gallery houses a myriad of large paintings in its large hall. Unfortunately there are no benches or seating to admire them, so one can only slowly walk by or stand in front of them for a bit, in order to admire them.
Main Room – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
As of this writing, the back of the gallery held the real prize for a visitor, a work by Leonardo da Vinci called the head of a woman, or “La Scapiliata”. One can see similarities with her face and that of the Mona Lisa, which was painted some time after and is now in the Louvre in Paris, France.
Head of a Woman “La Scapiliata” – Leonardo da Vinci, Vinci, 1452 – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Madonna of the Bowl, Rest after the Return from Egypt – Antonio Allegri detto il Correggio, 1489 – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Palatina Library
The Palatina Library is a large library that is still functioning, although for academic and research purposes only. However, the Petitot Gallery is still open to the public, where one can find a wide variety of topics, mostly in Italian of course.
Art Exhibits in Entrance – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
One Hall – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Old Books – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Side Hall – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
The Bodoni Museum
Anyone who has taken typesetting in school would enjoy the Bodoni Museum. The museum honors the famous Parma typesetter and printer, Giambattista Bodoni, and his eponymous typeface as well. The Bodoni typeface was a favorite of mine in high school, where I learned the intricacies of setting type. I loved its clean lines and serifs, using it to print a set of invitations for my mother at one time[1]To use the museum’s own words, “The severe, neoclassical imprint of the letters, characterized by the stark contrast between the thickness of the strokes and the thinness of the lines and … Continue reading.
Bodoni Bust and Painting – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Printing Press – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Stories of Punching and Printing – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Typesetting Examples – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Typesetting Examples – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Restaurants
You will find most of the non-industrial restaurants away from the main shopping street of Strada Cavour. Reservations are recommended, even for lunch, for these are often used by locals and the business crowd. Most of the Osterias and Trattorias serve wine by the tap in quarter, half and full liter sizes, whereas the corporate restaurants on Cavour serve only by the glass, so they can up-charge for it, like in the United States.
Osteria dei Servi
The Osteria dei Servi is actually housed under the Viale Giovanni Mariotti and has a rather odd entrance. But don’t let that fool you. The restaurant is actually quite nice inside and comfortable. The food is excellent and typical for the area.
Entrance – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Inside – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Bar – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Patti – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Bread and Patti’s Dinner – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Ravioli – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Trattoria Corrieri Parma
Another fine local restaurant is the Trattoria Corrieri Parma. Located further down in the city and by a Parma University building, it offers great food at even lower prices than die Servi. We found the service similar and the menu full of local dishes for us to try.
To use the museum’s own words, “The severe, neoclassical imprint of the letters, characterized by the stark contrast between the thickness of the strokes and the thinness of the lines and serifs; the stark, epigraphic composition of the title pages and dedications; the airy, correct relationship between text and images, between line and line, between light and dark make Bodoni’s page a prodigy of harmony and readability.“
For the past two days the city of Turin celebrated Saint John, with local events, parades and special deals on museum entry as well as other presentations.
Saint John’s Eve
The celebration of the Saint John is a big deal in Turin, as it is in other cities in Italy as well as other countries. Actually called the celebration of Saint John’s Eve, it starts on the 23rd of June at sunset and continues for two days in Italy. Marking the birth of John the Baptist, who ostensibly was born six months prior to Jesus, it is one of only a few feast days that mark births, rather than deaths.
A list of activities that were scheduled in Turin include the following:
Tuesday 23 June 2026
There was an opening parade with majorettes, municipal band and historical characters that went from Piazza Palazzo di Città to Piazza Castello.
At Palazzo Madama there was the ringing of the civic bell, a ceremony that dates back to 1670.
They also had a traditional historical procession from Giardini Cavour to Piazza Castello with period costumes, for which we had front row seats.
San Giovanni Battista Day Parade and Procession – via Giovanni Plana – Turin, Italy
San Giovanni Battista Day Parade and Procession – via Giovanni Plana – Turin, Italy
San Giovanni Battista Day Parade and Procession – via Giovanni Plana – Turin, Italy
At the Turin Cathedral, they used the bell tower for a vigil bell concert using cord techniques.
There was an award ceremony for the winning thesis about Turin at City Hall.
Later on in the evening at Piazza Castello, the ceremonies for the day ended with displays of ceremonial salutes by the Pietro Micca Historical Group, musical moments, and finally the lighting of the evening bonfire in the presence of civic authorities.
Wednesday 24 June 2026
The following day there was a vintage car parade from Piazza Vittorio Veneto to the Cathedral.
During the day there were several bell concerts across the city and museums open with reduced admission prices.
A solemn mass was held at Turin’s Cathedral, with the traditional distribution of charity bread to those in attendance.
The celebration continued after lunch with a rowing regatta from Castello del Valentino, along with the submarine Provana and the Maritime Museum was opened for public viewing and enjoyment (this is often closed).
In the evening there were several parades and concerts, including a symphony concert at the Rai Auditorium.
The city sponsored a torchlight procession on the river from Castello del Valentino to Ponte Vittorio Emanuele I in the late evening.
Finally, a fireworks display with an original soundtrack playing was held at Piazza Vittorio Veneto before midnight, to close the ceremonies.
All in all, I cannot remember the feast being celebrated here before, but with our constant travels it would be no surprise. In either case, we enjoyed what we saw of the celebrations and would commend anyone, if they are in the city at the time of the celebration to visit some of the venues, especially the parades with period costumes. We found them quite interesting and beautiful.
Owing to historical fate perhaps, Dubrovnik, Croatia, was formerly known as Ragusa, or the Republic of Ragusa, and was established some time in the 7th century C.E. from refugees of the old Epidaurum, or Ragusa Vecchia. It had been largely a free state before and after the control by the Byzantine Empire, the Repuplic of Venice and other later powers, including France and Napolean.
Dalmatian Coast – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Dubrovnik
The town is an ancient walled city, that is half surrounded by sea on its southern half. It has a number of entry points, guarded by gates, which in the past maintained its security from threats by land and sea. The primary of which is the Pile Gate, which today has a beautiful garden and play area beneath it.
Park below Fortress Wall – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Entrance to Old Town and Fortress Wall – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Park below Fortress Wall – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
As early as 1991 the Old City was surrounded and laid seige by foreign adversaries and survived, owing to its thick, impenetrable walls and access to the sea. The number of buildings damaged in this unnecessary conflict of a UNESCO World Heritage site were extensive, as the map below shows. This included the cathedral, as well as most churches inside the walls.
Map – Serb and Montenegrin Attack and Seige, 1991 – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Getting There
Train service is relatively limited or non-existent and mostly due to the former Soviet, Yugoslavian and present day Croatian governmental and engineering authorities being unable to overcome technical difficulties building tunnels through the earthquake prone geology in the region. The mountainous terrain runs longitundinally along the coast and is prone to falling apart. Even roadways are difficult to maintain. So other options should be sought out.
Interior – Kapetan Luke Ferry
Interior – Kapetan Luke Ferry
To get there we took the Kapetan Luka ferry service from Korcula to Dubrovnik. It is a two hour trip with one stop along the way. Other means of getting here are by bus, flying and car.
Though the Kapetan Luka service is adequate, the TPLine is commended for several reasons:
First, the ferries are larger and more accommodating.
Second, the crew seem to know there stuff, especially when is comes to stowing your luggage, etc.
Third, your luggage is stowed with you, on-board, inside; not outside in the elements.
Lastly, their internet presence is better and they maintain a very good and well maintained portal where tickets may be purchased directly from them, instead of some other third party application.
Where We Stayed
The hotel options in Dubrovnik can be very expensive, so be prepared for sticker shock, especially during peak season. There are other options, particularly when you can travel during non-peak or willing to venture further out from the Old Town.
Vila Dard Hotel
Located directly above the Old Town and approximately three hundred steps from it, was our hotel, Vila Dard. Unfortunately located on a very busy road, especially in the mornings and early evenings when everyone is rushing to and from work, it can be a bit challenging to cross.
Vila Dard – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Vila Dard Street – Dubrovnik, Croatia
However, it was for us more than 600-700€/night cheaper than staying at, let’s say, the Imperial Hilton down by the city. That’s a huge savings and one can overlook the traffic and inconvenience. It was very clean, fully air-conditioned and our laundry was changed everyday, without any issues with missing towels or other amenities, which we find rather frustrating at other higher priced options. So, in the end, it saved us some money and improved our health a bit, since we did not have to go to the gym and got plenty of exercise.
Lovrijenac Fortress
Located outside the town walls is the Lovrijenac Fortress. Perched high on a hill overlooking the west harbor, it commands a viewpoint of the entire seaside, countryside and harbor that it protects. It also appears to be a favorite venue for weddings and other occasions, since they were setting up for one when we visited.
Lovrijenac Fortress – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Lovrijenac Fortress – Dubrovnik, Croatia
The Lovrijenac Fortress appears to have been built in haste by the people of Ragusa, to resist Venetian rule. The Empire of Venice had already threatened to built a fortress on the same spot, so they could dominate trade and the surrounding area. When they arrived with their ships fully ladened for the task, they found that they were beaten to it by the residents and had to turn back.
The walls around the city are huge, unbroken and remniscent of other great walled cities by the Adriatic Sea. They have resisted attacks for centuries and have filled numerous roles throughout their life, including protection from direct attack, shelter, and even revenue in the form of tourism. Today they provide a unique unbroken path around the city, where those that visit can enjoy the views high upon the perch it provides.
Wall by Entrance – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Massive Fortress Walls – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Franciscan Church and Monastery Tower and the Stradun – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Hill in Old Town – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fortress Wall by Entrance – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Lovrjenak Fortress and Park – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Park Below – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fortress Walls – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Lovrjenak Fortress – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Old Town and Bosanka Hill – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Lovrjenak Fortress – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Patti on Fortress Wall – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Lokrum Island – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Patti in Lookout Tower – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fortress Wall – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Church of St. Ignatius – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Tvrđava Minčeta Tower – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fortress Walls – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Old Cannons – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Old Cannon – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Clock Tower – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Lovrjenac Fortress in distance – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Stradun
The major shopping avenue or street in the city is the Stradun. It is also the least protected from the sun and visitors would be keen to visit it early or later on in the day, since the sun beats down on extensive surface and reradiates the heat directly back to your body, thereby adding ten degrees Fahrenheit more to the outside temperature.
Stradun – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Square by Pile Gate – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Stradun Shopping Street – Dubrovnik, Croatia
The Stradun is the straightest and widest street in Dubrovnik and bisects the Old Town from the Pile Gate to the Fishmarket Gate. It offers a few sights along the way and two fountains[1]These were constructed by the Southern Italian and Neapolitan architect and engineer Onofrio della Cava in 1438 and bares his name. which grace each end, the Larger Onofrio Fountain and its diminutive brother, the Small Onofrio Fountain near the Clock Tower and the Fishmarket Gate.
Park by Pile Gate – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Pile Gate – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Pile Gate – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Side Alley – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Clock Tower on Stradun – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fishmarket Gate – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Rector’s Palace
Built for the rector of the Republic of Ragusa between the 14th and 19th centuries, the Rector’s Palace now serves as a museum. A Gothic style building originally, it was destroy a few times and later rebuilt with Renaissance and some Baroque elements.
Interesting Structural Elements – Rector’s Palace – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Interesting Structural Elements – Rector’s Palace – Dubrovnik, Croatia
The museum houses a fine collection of old strong boxes, which show detailed craftmenship by blacksmiths and locksmiths of that time. Upon entering there is also a pair of old bell knockers that are quite interesting.
Clock with Desk – Rector’s Palace – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Rooms – Rector’s Palace – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Desk – Rector’s Palace – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Other Exhibits – Rector’s Palace – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Other Exhibits – Rector’s Palace – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Bedroom – Rector’s Palace – Dubrovnik, Croatia
On the ground floor the Dragon Prison Cell can be investigated, where only the most hardened criminals were kept. Apparently some inscribed their names on the walls, for future tourists to read no doubt.
Tuffa Stone of Prison Room – Rector’s Palace – Dubrovnik, Croatia
In Croatia, there are always Catholic churches to visit. Some are better than others and the ones you will find in Dubrovnik are for the most part not of much interest. Though their importance to the community no doubt remains.
Cathedral of The Assumption of the Virgin Mary
The Assumption of the Virgin Mary, or Dubrovnik Cathedral, was undergoing renovations at the time of our visit and could not be entered. It is located near the Rector’s Palace. Built in the Baroque style of architecture, it was literally destroyed by the devastating Dubrovnik Earthquate of 1667 and later rebuilt.
Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Church of Saint Ignatius
Perched above the Jesuit Stairs is the Church of Saint Ignatius. Formerly part of the Jesuit College, or Collegium Ragusinum, it is currently the finest example of Baroque period architecture in the Old Town.
Entrance – Church Of Saint Ignatius – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Nave – Church Of Saint Ignatius – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Church of Saint Blaise
Built for the patron saint of the Old City, the Church of Saint Blaise occupies an important spot on the Stradun, close the city’s Clock Tower and Rector’s Palace. The plan of this Romanesque style church follows that of a Greek Cross inside, the nave and alter are shown below. It was planned and built shortly after the Black Death hit the city of Dubrovnik in the mid fourteenth century. A statue of Saint Blaise adorns the highest point on its facade.
Entrance – Church of Saint Blaise – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Church of Saint Blaise – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Lokrum Island
A short ferry hop away is the Botanical Garden and Wildlife Refuge for Peacocks and Peahens, Lokrum Island.
Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Tickets For Two – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Our Ferry – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Map – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
The birds are all over the island, however you will find them more often inland than along the coast, or on top of the hill where to fort is located.
Peacock – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Peahens – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Peahen – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Entrance – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
For the most part the island is well marked with trails and you can spend a better part of a day exploring.
Beautiful Blue Water – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Patti – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
The Path up to Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
The Path up to Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Different Plants – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Many Different Species of Trees – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fort Royal
Perched atop the main hill on Lokrum, is Fort Royal. Now partially in ruin, it is only maintained as far as keeping is safe for the tourists. It commands a view of the island, the Dalmatian coastline and of course, Dubrovnik.
Patti hiking up to Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Patti at Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Dubrovnik Old Town – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
The main fort is intack, but the outlying buildings have fallen down and no longer of any interest.
Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Franjo Tuđman Bridge
For a small fee you can enjoy a short city tour which will take you to the Franjo Tuđman Bridge. This is actually an interesting outing, since to get there you must pass by and over the Ombla River. This river is actually born out of rock as a spring, perhaps one of the few rivers in the world having claim to do so. And, it is not a small river by any stretch of the imagination, it is quite wide for a spring-few river.
Ombla River and Tudman Bridge – City Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Tudman Bridge – City Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Tudman Bridge – City Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Tudman Bridge – City Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Tudman Bridge – City Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Ombla River – City Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Ombla River – City Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Ombla River and Port – City Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Tudman Bridge – City Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Looking out to sea – City Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Restaurants
We found eating at the more popular restaurants a bit overpriced and the service not as good as some of the more local establishments. No doubt you can be cautious at some of these places and keep the price down, but sometimes the point is to enjoy some of the unique offerings they have while not breaking your budget, this you might find difficult to do, especially if you don’t want to order another pizza!
Tata’s
For us, a great place for breakfast. Very reasonably priced, right below our hotel on Zagrebačka Ulica, it offered all the essentials. Plus, the Pekara Rusica Bakery was right next door in case we wanted to skip a regular breakfast, preferring just a danish or other handheld treat.
Omelette with Toast – Tata’s Restaurant – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Pancakes and Fruit – Tata’s Restaurant – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Taj Mahal Old Town Restaurant
By far our favorite in the Old Town. It specializes in authentic Croatian and Bosnian ethnic cuisines. We can commend the stuffed vegetable dish called Dolma.[2]The menu has it as Sarma/Dolma/Japrak, but the Turkish Sarma and the Albanian Japrak are actually closer to each other and different from Dolma, in that they are wrapped in grape leaves normally. … Continue reading
Entrance – Taj Mahal Old Town Restaurant – Dubrovnik, Croatia
The service was excellent, they never missed a heartbeat and always showed that they were on top of their game. The food overall we found to be moderately priced and we spent considerably less here, than we did at the Dubravka 1836 restaurant.
Red Lentil Soup – Taj Mahal Old Town Restaurant – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Sarma/Dolma/Japrak – Taj Mahal Old Town Restaurant – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Bademli Almasia – Taj Mahal Old Town Restaurant – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Magnolia Restaurant
Outside the main entrance and Pile Gate, in the large plaza, can be found the Magnolia Restaurant. Nothing special, but they offer a variety of food which is good enough for lunch. A bit over-priced, but not too bad. We ordered simple soup and salad combination with some drinks. The service was okay, although they did bring us the wrong lunch at first, an understandable mix-up at such a busy place.
Fish Soup – Magnolia Restaurant – Dubrovnik, Croatia
For our anniversary we booked a table in advance for the Dubravka 1836 Restaurant. It was a pleasant evening and they had the best outside seating, with a overlook of the western port.
Selfie – Dubravka Restaurant – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Patti with her Pina Colada – Dubravka Restaurant – Dubrovnik, Croatia
The food was okay, though not as good as some other places in Croatia we have eaten. The price is on the very high side, considering what you get, which does not include good service. We found the service inattentive and a bit poor, considering all the help that was swirling around. Most of the time they appeared to be just standing around and talking, taking little note how long we waited for them to take our plates away.
Fortress View from Terrace – Dubravka Restaurant – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Mia Tia – Dubravka Restaurant – Dubrovnik, Croatia
In the end, we decided not to order dessert, after having spent a good two hours already at the restaurant. As can be seen below, one main and one side dish run around 50€/person, not cheap, by any stretch of the imagination.
One final impression regarding eating in Croatia in general. We found it more expensive than eating in Italy, and perhaps other larger countries in Europe, though perhaps cheaper than eating in Switzerland. People who read that eating in Croatia at a restaurant is cheap or inexpensive, do NOT believe it, it can be more expensive than eating in the United States, 60€/person for example, for nothing that special and without tips. There are less expensive options, but you have to seek them out and most are ethnic or local restaurants outside the main restaurant hotspots.
We checked out the grocery stores too and found them inline with prices elsewhere in Europe. You will find meat and other similar products a bit expensive, but in general eating in and preparing your own food, especially if you are not a fan of trying something new, might be a less expensive option.
Lastly, as far as Dubrovnik in general is concerned, we found it an interesting place to visit once, but probably would not return. Up to three cruise ships visit the town each day and the population explodes around nine o’clock in the morning and is very busy for the rest of day. If you like a cruise, this is the place for you, since you are already packed in like sardines on the ship already. If not, you might find the hustle and bustle a bit annoying. We could not believe the number of people here and it is not even officially tourism season yet!
I, personally, was a bit dissappointed in the coastline. I had the impression it was going to be more like an Amalfi coastline, or like Cinque Terre, but it’s not. It is craggy, but I just thought it was going to be more dramatic, it’s not! Perhaps down the coast, along Albania’s coast it is more so, I am not sure, I haven’t been there yet…
The menu has it as Sarma/Dolma/Japrak, but the Turkish Sarma and the Albanian Japrak are actually closer to each other and different from Dolma, in that they are wrapped in grape leaves normally. Sarma may be wrapped in grape leaves, but it could also be cabbage leaves, or just plain vegetable, for example, squash. However, for simplicity sake, the words are used interchangeably.
After Split, Croatia we had planned on taking a detour to one of the islands for a bit of an escape. We knew it was going to be crowded, since tourist season was upon us and we thought it would be great to also break up the distance between Split and Dubrovnik. Our choice was the town of Korčula, on the eponymous island in Croatia.
Town in the distance – Korčula, Croatia
Korčula
Is a small medieval walled town that was protected from the outside by walls. It was, in fact, not until later in the nineteenth century that citizen were allowed to build outside the walls.
Map – Korčula, Croatia
The Town from Galerija Maksimilijana Vanka Viewpoint – Korčula, Croatia
The main entrance to the town is the large main gate. Today it is left open, but before modern times it was closed at night. There is a street that encircles the entire town and is very nice for a slow walk, while you enjoy the scenery and hopefully the weather.
Main Entrance to Town – Korčula, Croatia
Main Entrance Gate – Korčula, Croatia
Small Canon used for defense – Main Entrance – Korčula, Croatia
The town is laid out in a herringbone or pinnate leaf pattern. This allows for better air circulation, while at the same time offering protection against the most violent of storms that come in from the sea.
Ancient Drapery Pedastels – Korčula, Croatia
Small Chapel – Korčula, Croatia
An old bricked up entrance – Korčula, Croatia
Narrow alleys – Korčula, Croatia
Patti by alley filled with stairs – Korčula, Croatia
Croatian Flag and side alley – Korčula, Croatia
The name of the island and town is derived from an Illyrian-Greek word that means the rock passage. It has been inhabited for at least a few thousand years. The Greeks were frequent visitor in the 6th B.C.E., and perhaps arrived on the island even before that time. The original population were colonies of Illyrians, which have left their telltale marks throughout the island. From the early 3rd B.C.E. the Romans knew of the island and subdued it later for five hundred years. Some of the Latin that was taught in those days, still lingers in the speech of the town’s peoples.
Riznica Museum – Korčula, Croatia
GettingThere
To get there, take the ferry service that runs between Split and Dubrovnik. There are several lines, unfortunately our original booking through Kapetan Luka was cancelled due to equipment issues, so we had to rebook on TPLine. It was fully booked, but very comfortable. Get in line early, because seats usually go fast.
Leaving Split – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia
Our boat trip – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia
Our boat trip – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia
Hvar – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia
Hvar – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia
Another small town – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia
A Word About Ferries
Just an opinion of course, but having been on both ferry lines, I would prefer the TPLine. On TPLine, your luggage is stowed indoors with you and not outside, as with Kapetan Luka line. The latter is fine otherwise, but in the event of bad weather, it appears your luggage would be soaked upon arrival to your destination. I also found their boats to have a bit more room to get around. I felt a bit cramped on the Luka line.
Departing Split – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia
Patti on board – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia
Our Hotel
The Aminess Liburna
A large modern hotel on the adjacent pennisula to the town. From here it was about a fifteen to twenty minute walk to inside the town walls. However, the hotel has all the amenities, including breakfast. They also have a pool and a small seaside area for swimming. The deluxe rooms are typical and met most of our requirements.
Our hotel across the inlet – Aminess Liburna Hotel – Korčula, Croatia
Aminess Liburna Hotel – Korčula, Croatia
Our hotel across the inlet – Aminess Liburna Hotel – Korčula, Croatia
Path from our hotel to town – Korčula, Croatia
Marco Polo House
Ostensibly Marco Polo lived in the house for some time during his travels. Which travels, the museum does not elaborate on. They only conjecture that Marco was there, based on the family owning property and having other interests on the island.
Map of Marco Polo’s travels – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Alley entrance – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Interior – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Weapons Display – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Battles – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
The Polos were based in Venice and the city and its residents had a strong influence on the island and the town.
Old Maps Asia – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Old Maps of Europe – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Marco Polo’s adventures and artifacts are explained and exhibited in some detail. Enough at least to enjoy the small museum that they have made in his honor.
Upsidedowm Map of Europe, Middle East, Part of Africa, Asia and India subcontinent – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Upper Left Corner Details – Continents Map – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Upper Left Corner Details – Continents Map – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Upper Right Corner Details – Continents Map – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Lower Left Corner Details – Continents Map – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Lower Right Corner Details – Continents Map – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Old Map of Europe and Asia – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Old Book – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Old Book – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Museum learning aids – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Old Books he owned – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Map of Known World – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
His long twenty-seven years journey into Asia is the central theme. Some of the artifacts are copies or replicas, but the genuine one are very interesting.
Weapons Display – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Model of a 13th Century Axe – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Model of a 13th Century Sword – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Model of a 13th Century Sword – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Coat of Arms – Korčula, Croatia
Tapestry – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Indian Artifact – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Chinese Necklace and Copper Burner, an Indian Spice Container – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Of special interest were the model boat, a replica used in his travels, as well as assorted maps and other forms of reference used during the adventure.
Ship Model – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Ship Model – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
One special artifact is that of the Tablet that Kubla Khan had given his company for safe travel. It essentially gave them Carte Blanche through the countryside. Anyone interfering with them, risked Khan and his army descending upon them.
Khan’s Golden Tablet – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
One of the last things to visit is the house tower, which commands a modest view of the surrounding area.
Entrance to Tower – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Tower Views – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Tower Views – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Tower Views – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia
Churches and Cathedrals
There are a few churches in the town and one cathedral of importance. The people who live in the town are very religious and masses are well attended on the weekends, especially during holidays.
Front – Church of Saint Peter – Korčula, Croatia
Church of Saint Michael
Modest from the outside and equally so inside, this church is emblematic of its worshippers’ devotion to their faith. The church’s centerpiece is Christ on the Cross.
Front – Church of Saint Michael – Korčula, Croatia
Interior – Church of Saint Michael – Korčula, Croatia
Saint Mark’s Cathedral
A remarkably simple example of a Romanesque-Gothic Cathedral on the small island, but no less important is Saint Mark’s. It is central to the town and is noteworthy. Visitors are required to wear respectful clothing, no shorts or inappropriate clothing is allowed, so dress accordingly.
Front Facade – Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia
Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia
Entrance Details – Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia
Nave – Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia
The cathedral has some very interesting eavestroughs and other architectural tidbits that any visitor, with some time on their hands, may explore. The interior layout is typical, even though a bit simple.
Eavestroughs – Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia
Attached to the left of the cathedral is a side chapel, which is a bit more elaborate than that of the cathedral itself.
Side Chapel – Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia
Side Chapel – Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia
Chapel of Our Lady of the Snows
A small votive chapel directly after you enter the main gate and to the left. The Chapel of Our Lady of the Snows also commemorate Saint Bartholomew and the Battle of 1483. According to someone who transcribed the events of the battle between the Venetians and Genoese, Marco Polo was captured during the battle and later imprisoned.[1]It is actually unclear if he was captured at this battle, or a previous minor engagement at Laiazzo.
Chapel of Our Lady of the Snows – Main Entrance – Korčula, Croatia
Restaurants
In some parts of Croatia, and especially Korčula, most of the restaurants go by Konoba. This is to denote thier Dalmation or Istrian heritage and may they take the form of cellar-like tavern or other small place that serves authentic local food. Most of them we found to be reasonably priced.
Konoba Riva
A new restaurant that open just before we arrived which offers a very delicious menu with food to match it. We ate here three times, twice for lunch and once for dinner and were never dissappointed. The food was never salty or overcooked and when it arrived, it was still hot! The service was also extremely attentive, no doubt trying to assert some sway over any reviews they would receive. It didn’t matter, it ended up as our go to place.
Konoba Biankura is located about three streets down in the old town on the right. It offers a wide variety of food, along with pasta and some meat dishes. The fish soup is amazing and can be commended highly.
Fish Soup and Salad – Konoba Biankura – Korčula, Croatia
Panncotta with honey – Konoba Biankura – Korčula, Croatia
Konoba Aterina
The Konoba Aterina is a restaurant in the old town. It offers a view somewhat of the sun setting and has covered terrace outside seating. The food is good, the majority of which is seafood, so a good place to scratch your fishy itch. We ordered the Sea Bass, traditionally cooked, and were not dissappointed.
If anyone travels all the way down to the very tip of Italy they will discover Reggio Calabria, a Calabrian city with all the classic touches of Southern Italy. Offshore, you will see the ever present Mount Etna smoking in the background.
Mount Aetna – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Getting There And Back
To get there we took TrennItalia’s Calabrian Regional train service from Tropea. Approximately a two hour train ride that eventually hugs the coast and offers a preview of the Italian island of Sicily.
Our First View of Sicily – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy
Messina Ferry – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy
Coming Into Reggio Calabria – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy
To get back we used Reggio Calabria’s airport, where RyanAir offers direct service to Turin’s Caselle Airport. Another trip just short of two hours which also hugs the coast of Italy and also offers views of Sardinia and other prominent points of interest from the air.
Reggio Calabria Airport – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Reggio Calabria
The official name for the city is Reggio Calabria, but it is also known by its traditional names of Reggio di Calabria and just plain Reggio. The city was almost completely destroyed by an earthquake in the beginning of the last century and its more hopefully robust version has new amenities the former city lacked.
Boardwalk with Large Banyan Trees – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Large Banyan Trees – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Corso Garibaldi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Corso Garibaldi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Piazza d’Italia – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Piazza d’Italia – Reggio Calabria, Italy
If you love food, visit the shops along Corso Garibaldi. Many have interesting and local foods that you can bring home with you to enjoy, while you reminisce about your time in Calabria.
Calabrian Volcanic Spread – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Just up from our hotel and on the transformed via Giudecca street, is the eponymous stairway.
Giudecca Stairway – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Giudecca Stairway – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Giudecca Stairway – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Torrine Hotel
On the edge of the older and more vibrant part of the city, the Torrine Hotel is about four blocks from the waterfront. This is just as well, since it provides a quieter place to stay, with the exception being rush hour; it is located on a busy one-way thoroughfare through the city that buses frequent. Our room came with breakfast, a mixture of continental with some warm food thrown in.
Breakfast – Hotel Torrione – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Lungomare
The city has an extensive waterfront and a beautiful Lungomare to go with it. Near the end of it, in the urban park, you will find a nice long sign with the city’s name where you can take memorable photographs.
Boardwalk – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Boardwalk – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Beach – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Looking North – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Patti by City Sign – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Erick by City Sign – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
There are several points of interest along the boardwalk and a leisurely stroll along it will eventually bring you to all of them.
Abandoned Boats – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Wave Science Experiment – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Unknown Statue – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Somewhere near the end, down by the Roman Baths, Patti found the Big Bench. Apparently just installed, since it had no placename on it yet.
Patti finds the Big Bench – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Monumento Della Vittoria
From our hotel on Via Giula, almost directly down the street and on the waterfront and Lungomare, is the Monumento della Vittoria. It is a monument erected for Italy’s World War I victory and Victor Emmanuele III, which also has replica of the Statue of Athena Promachos inside it.
Monumento della Vittoria – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Monumento della Vittoria – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Monumento della Vittoria – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Monumento della Vittoria – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Monumento della Vittoria – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Arena del Stretto – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Arena del Stretto – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Roman Baths
Along the Lungomare is a site of old Roman baths from antiquity.
Roman Baths Site – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo
A large cathedral in the Piazza Duomo is the Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo. It was partially destroyed in the 1908 earthquake and rebuilt with a fusion of Romanesque and Gothic styles.
Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Bronze Doors – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Aisle – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Clerestory by Entry – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Clerestory by Entry – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
The most interesting interior element of the cathedral is its ceiling. A timbered edifice that is remarqued and painted in a most interesting style, including pagan elements which appear to be handpainted.
Nave – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Nave’s Ceiling – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Crossing – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Urn – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Altar and Apse – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Organ in Transept – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Side Chapel – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Organ in Transept – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Castello Aragonese
The Castle Aragonese no longer functions as a castle and has been renovated into something more useful, an art museum. Here for a small fee you are able to enjoy two galleries, one in each tower.
Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Tickets For Two – Entry to Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
North Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Patti on South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
North Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
North Tower Gallery
During our visit this gallery had an exhibit of modern paintings, most of which bright colors were used in an almost three dimensional approach.
Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
South Tower Gallery
While we were visiting this tower housed a collection of art known as Voci senza Volto, or Voices without a Face. An effective and provocitive collection of art, which appears part surreal and part dystopian and gets the viewer to think about signs of struggle, longing and hardship. This was the high point of the trip for me.
South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Being Neutral Serves No One – Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Villas And Palazzos
There are a few villas and palazzos of import in the city.
Villa Genoese Zerbi
A beautiful Venetian Art Nouveau style building on the Corso Emanuele is the villa of Genoese Zerbi. The original was destroyed in the great quake, but it was completely restored and now is one of the main charms of the city.
Villa Genoese Zerbi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Villa Genoese Zerbi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Villa Genoese Zerbi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Villa Genoese Zerbi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Palazzos Spinelli and Giuffrè
These two palazzos are side by side on the Corso Emanuele by the waterfront. Both appear to need some work. Palazzo Spinelli offers a great example of Calabrian architecture and Art Nouveau, or the liberty style.
Palazzo Spinelli – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Palazzo Giuffrè on the other hand offers a more mundane example, and is reminiscent of other buildings you will find in other large Italian cities.
Palazzo Giuffri – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Restaurants
Drogheria Culinaria
Using its former name for the grocery store the family used to own, it now serves food and drinks. It has a decent wine list, with several good varietals by the glass.
Entrance – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Inside – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
The food is also pretty good and you will definitely be able to find something to slake your appetite at this establishment.
Meatballs, Bread with Hot ‘Nduja and Wine – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Pat’s Spaghettone and Erick’s Tagliotella, both with Pork Ragú sauce – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante
One of the restaurants in the area that is highly recommended for local Calabrian dishes is the Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante. Located on via Reggio Campi and via II Dezembre, this small little restaurants attacts all the locals, so have your reservation in hand before leaving your hotel or place of stay.
Entrance – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Old Citroen – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Everything we tried had that home cooking taste without any loss to attention to detail. The Stufato is highly recommended and will melt in your mouth.
Menu – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Stufato di Maialino a bassa Temperatura with Coleslaw – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Cavatelli al Sugo di Capra – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Stufato di Maialino a bassa Temperatura – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
While we were there a local class was having their end of year party, so noise levels were through the roof. However, it was still enjoyable, especially watching the children eating all that food. Made me remember how hungry I used to be as a school kid.
End of Year Lunch for Children – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Fennel Aperativo with Expresso – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Tartufo – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
On the border of Hesse and Bavaria, in the Odenwald, is the town of Michelstadt. It’s curious, because its name contains within it a word that most english speaking people would think it should be a city, when in fact, the germans use the denotation for both town and city. Technically, it is considered a Kleinstadt, or small city, or what we call a town and should carry the stadt on the end of its name.
Michelstadt
The town is one of the oldest within what is called the inner Odenwald. There has been some sort of settlement there ever since the eighth century. Like other small towns of this nature, its layout has a certain lazy circle about it, indicating it was protected by some kind of fortification or wall. Evidence of this can be found on Kellerbergstraße, where part of the wall remains, and Mauerstraße where it can be seen in its former glory.
Stadtgäßchen and Stadtmauer – Mauerstraße – Michelstadt, Germany
To get to Michelstadt you will take either the 45 or 47 from the north or the south. On the north of town is a very large parking area which we used, conveniently located close to the town’s center.
Rte. 45 – Michelstadt, Germany
Bahnhofstraße – Michelstadt, Germany
Zum Grüner Baum – Großer Gasse – Michelstadt, Germany
Oberer Pfarrgasse – Michelstadt, Germany
Große Gasse – Michelstadt, Germany
Große Gasse – Michelstadt, Germany
Town Hall
The Town Hall, or Rathaus, is one of the more prominent buildings in the town. It stands a bit off-center in the Marktplatz and has an old press, a scale and other items associated with the buildings history in the open area underneath it.
Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany
Altes Rathaus – Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany
Altes Rathaus – Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany
Altes Rathaus – Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany
The Marktplatz contains a main foutain, which the town appears to decorate for holidays and other occasions.
Marktbrunnen – Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany
Marktbrunnen – Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany
Löwenhof – Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany
Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany
Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany
Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany
Michelstadt Fortress
The Michelstadt Fortress, or Burg Michelstadt, is probably more of a stronghold than any castle or fortress. Though it sits on a high wall with a moat, it is not as impressive as other german castles or fortresses. Today it houses a mill museum, which unfortunately was not open at the time of our visit.
Old Wall – Kellerbergstraße – Michelstadt, Germany
Diebsturm and Museum – Kellerbergstraße – Michelstadt, Germany
Diebsturm
The Diebsturm, or Thieves’ Tower, is part of and sits next to Burg Michelstadt. The sump or cellar of the tower was used as a prison starting sometime in the early fourteenth century. Prisoners were lowered down on a rope into the cellar to wait our their term. It is one of the more prominent features of the town.
Diebsturm and Museum – Kellerbergstraße – Michelstadt, Germany
Ericka and Patti – Diebsturm – Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany
Dr. I. E. Lichtigfeld Museum
This museum preserves the jewish past of the town, neatly preserved in the former Synagoge Michelstadt that was destroyed during the prelude to the second world war.
Dr. I. E. Lichtigfeld Museum – Mauerstraße – Michelstadt, Germany
Here one can get a sense of the small jewish population that used to inhabit the town, which also has numerous Stolpersteine[1]these are small brass memorials laid in the ground for jews and people who were killed, deported or driven to suizide commemorating the people of the town that lost their lives. They can be found throughout Germany and parts of Europe.
Dr. I. E. Lichtigfeld Museum – Mauerstraße – Michelstadt, Germany
Dr. I. E. Lichtigfeld Museum – Mauerstraße – Michelstadt, Germany
The museum also backs up to the old town wall and has a nice little park, where one can quietly sit and enjoy the weather.
Dr. I. E. Lichtigfeld Museum – Alter Stadtmauer – Michelstadt, Germany
Dr. I. E. Lichtigfeld Museum – Alter Stadtmauer – Michelstadt, Germany
Dr. I. E. Lichtigfeld Museum – Park – Michelstadt, Germany
Restaurants
Due to its size, there is not much to choose from, but there are a few restaurants in the Marktplatz. We chose a brewery close to the edge of town for lunch.
Michelstädter Rathausbräu
The Michelstädter Rathausbräu is a brewery and restaurant. It serves good food typical of the area. They don’t speak much english, so be prepared to whip out your translation guide or phone. However, the food is very good and they have their own brew on tap.
Rathausbräu Restaurant and Brewery – Mauerstraße – Michelstadt, Germany
Rathausbräu Restaurant and Brewery – Mauerstraße – Michelstadt, Germany
Rathausbräu Restaurant and Brewery – Mauerstraße – Michelstadt, Germany
The last time we were in Luzern was in 2020. We came back at the behest of other family members who wanted to visit it for a day and to also check out the wonderful hands-on transportation museum. We therefore made a Tagesausflug, or day trip, from Zürich to Luzern just to see the museum.
Getting There
From Zürich HBf, we took the regional train IR70, which only takes about forty minutes to Luzern. With the half fare card, it only cost us 13.50 Francs round-trip, per person. Luzern train station is right by the confluence of the lake and the river, so it drops you right in the heart of town.
Luzern, or Lucerne depending upon your preferred spelling, is a beautiful little city on the banks of the Vierwaldstättersee, or Lake Lucerne. It is bisected by the Reuss River, which in earlier times not only had several mills along it, it was also used to generate electricity for the city when one of the old mills was converted to a hydro-power station.
Reuss River – Luzerne, Switzerland
Pfistergasse – Luzerne, Switzerland
Hofkirche St. Leodegar – Luzerne, Switzerland
Allenwindenturm – Luzerne, Switzerland
Weggisgasse – Luzerne, Switzerland
Mühlenplatz – Luzerne, Switzerland
Fountain – Luzerne, Switzerland
Reusssteg-Brunnen – 1547 – Luzerne, Switzerland
The Bridges
The most interest sight in the city are its bridges. The Kapellbrücke, or Chapel Bridge, was originally a fortification, but is now a tourist attraction that almost burnt down in 1993. The paintings that adorn it, and it sister bridge the Spreuerbrücke, are still being restored after the fire and years of neglect.
Spreuerbrücke and Nadelwehr – Luzerne, Switzerland
Baslertor – Spreuerbrücke – Luzerne, Switzerland
Spreuerbrücke – Luzerne, Switzerland
Spreuerbrücke – Nadelwehr und Jesuitenkirche (hinten) – Luzerne, Switzerland
Museum Of Transportation
The Verkehrshaus der Schweiz, the Swiss Museum of Transport, is a hands-on museum for people of all ages, but mainly geared toward school children. Even for adults, there are some very interesting and historical items to see, let alone a good record of Switzerland’s contribution in the area of transportation.
Verkehrshaus der Schweiz – Main Entrance – Luzerne, Switzerland
Verkehrshaus der Schweiz – Main Entrance – Luzerne, Switzerland
Verkehrshaus der Schweiz – Swiss Airline DC3 – Luzerne, Switzerland
Verkehrshaus der Schweiz – Swiss Airline DC3 – Luzerne, Switzerland
The museum is divided into themes, from planes, to trains and automobiles, they even have a brief but interesting exhibit on bicycles and their history in Switzerland.
Verkehrshaus der Schweiz – Swiss Air Exhibits – Luzerne, Switzerland
Verkehrshaus der Schweiz – Swiss Air Exhibits – Luzerne, Switzerland
Verkehrshaus der Schweiz – Swiss Air Exhibits – Luzerne, Switzerland
Verkehrshaus der Schweiz – Swiss Maritime Exhibits – Luzerne, Switzerland
Verkehrshaus der Schweiz – Swiss Automobile Exhibits – Luzerne, Switzerland
Verkehrshaus der Schweiz – Swiss Bicycle Exhibits – Luzerne, Switzerland
Verkehrshaus der Schweiz – Swiss Automobile Exhibits – Luzerne, Switzerland
Verkehrshaus der Schweiz – Swiss Air Exhibits – Luzerne, Switzerland
Verkehrshaus der Schweiz – Swiss Railroad Exhibits – Luzerne, Switzerland
Verkehrshaus der Schweiz – Swiss Railroad Exhibits – Luzerne, Switzerland
Verkehrshaus der Schweiz – Swiss Railroad Exhibits – Luzerne, Switzerland
Verkehrshaus der Schweiz – Swiss Railroad Exhibits – Luzerne, Switzerland
Restaurants
We visited on Sunday, so our restaurant choices were rather limited. Sunday in most of Europe is the day of the week that families go out to eat and many normally have reservations for a late day lunch. Most of the establishments along the Rathausquai, Reusssteg and Bahnhofstrasse were busy, but off the beaten path we managed to find something.
Restaurant Fritschi
Tucked away and located Sternenplatz is the Restaurant Fritschi. It offers mostly swiss cuisine, but there are some simpler dishes, if you are not too hungry or prefer not to eat a heavy lunch.
Restaurant Fritschi – Chicken and Salad- Luzerne, Switzerland
Restaurant Fritschi – Schnitzel and Fries- Luzerne, Switzerland
Santa Lucia Ristorante
When we returned to Zürich, we ate at Santa Lucia Ristorante. This restaurant can get very busy, so it is probably a good idea to have reservations. They do however have a downstairs, which is where we were seated; there you can actually witness them making your pizza. They have many other specialities on the menu, so finding something delicious to try should not be a problem.
Santa Lucia Ristorante – Inside – Luzerne, Switzerland
Reggia di Venaria Reale was a royal residence and palace to the northwest of Turin, Italy. It was one of more that a dozen residences of the Savoy family. It was abondoned after the Napoleonic Wars and later became a military post and barracks and subsequently slowly fell into disrepair and abandonment. After a major restoration, it finally opened to the public in 2007 as a musuem and tourist attraction.
La Venaria Reale – Map of Complex – Turin, Italy
Getting There
The easiest was to get there from Turin is to take one of the SFM trains from Porta Susa towards the Turin Airport. Many of these trains stop at Venaria Station and it only takes about fifteen to twenty minutes and costs about €3.50 per person. We often use the phone application and do not book a round-trip ticket, since you never know how long you might stay, especially if you are planning for lunch as well.
Porta Susa – Leaving for Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Train Station at Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Train Station at Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Military Monument – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Andrea Mensa – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Andrea Mensa – Turin, Italy
The Palace
The palace is actually in two pieces, the original Palace of Diana from the seventeenth century in white stucco with a white clock tower and the latter eighteenth century addition in raw brick with the Belvedere Tower, where you enter.
La Venaria Reale – Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Clock Tower, Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Castelmonte – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Noble Families, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Noble Families, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Museum, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Art Room, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Art Room, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Castle Diorama, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
The Grand Gallery
Probably the most striking room and the pinnacle of the visit, the Grand Gallery is part of the Palace of Diana and a core piece of the original palace.
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Saubaud Generations, Bedrooms, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
Turin At The Turn Of The Century
There is a nice collection of maps, dioramas and other works depicting Turin at the turn of the seventeenth century. Interesting from the perspective of present day Turin and what was lacking back in the day of the House of Savoy.
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Piazza San Carlo, Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
The Rooms Of Art
There is also a fine exhibit of art at the palace. Located through the entrance to the gardens, the entrance is in the back of the Palace of Diana.
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
The Stables
Juvarra Stables
The Juvarra Stables contain a collection of the royal family’s modes of transportation, from a river gondolla, to the royal coach and other broughams, all the way to childrens toy coach.
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
The wall is surrounded by a historical account of a trip up the River Po using the gondola from Venice to Turin.
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
Alfieri Stables
Today these just appear as a hallway depicting the transition from a palace in ruin to full restoration. Some of the photographs in the collection are strinking and it is well worth thoughful look and some consideration.
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
The Gardens
The gardens here include several, the most conspicuous one is the Flower Garden. But there is also several orchards and three distinct terraces that one can walk through and enjoy the well manicured estate.
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Pig Sculpture in wood, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Patti, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Reflecting Pool, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Gondola Pool – Turin, Italy
Church of Saint Hubert
One has to walk to the Church of Saint Hubert from within the complex near the stables, outside entry is not possible. All of the pews have been removed, only the artwork, frescoes and a high altar remain, everything else is gone.
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
Restaurants
Il Convito della Venaria
Just on the corners of the Piazza della Repubblica and Via Andrea Mensa is the ristorante Il Convito della Venaria. A fine place for lunch, though probably a bit pricier than some of the alternatives, though restaurants and cafes appear to get sparser and sparser as you walk back towards the train station, so word of warning. We had a simple lunch of Bruschetta and two different pasta dishes, Patti had Maccheroncino al Tochio with Eggplant, Zucchini and Olives in a red sauce and I had the Agnolottini del Plin Piemontese Style, both were delicious.
Il Convito della Venaria – Pasta with Olives and Squash – Turin, Italy
Il Convito della Venaria – Plin Piemontese – Turin, Italy
