Tag: museum

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Straßburg, France – Quaint Border Town

Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg

We arrived by plane from Catania, Sicily in France’s EuroAirport, also known as the Basel-Mulhouse-Friebourg airport. You arrive via the air and exit in any one of three countries, Switzerland, Germany or France.

A word of caution though, exiting in France, you may find it difficult to get a taxi. We waited for a half an hour and ended up sharing a ride with a Frenchmen that explained to us that exiting via the France exit has the least amount of taxis. Of course, the airport has no information booth and you can’t of course change your mind once you are out.

The taxi drive was about five minutes and we were standing at the Saint-Louis la Chaussée train stop, having already purchased our tickets via phone. From there we went to Mulhouse and then on to Strasbourg, again using France’s regional train service, which you can essentially purchase any ticket in the future and still be able to use it for earlier trains.

Argantorati

Just barely in France on the border with Germany is the small quaint city of Straßburg, or Strasbourg to the French, and it actually goes by other names to some of the ethnic minorities. The name has German origins and meaning as ‘the town at the crossing of roads‘. It is also the place where the river Ill dumps into the mighty Rhine river.

The original settlement here before the fifth century CE, was known as the fortified silver settlement, a compound of the Celtic arganto for silver and rati for fortification. It was later latinized into Argentium and Argentina, or city of silver, where it is known in numerous texts. What follows is a slideshow of some of the many amazing sites you will see as you walk the city.

Notre Dame

The town has a huge and wonderfully prominent cathedral called Notre Dame de Strasbourg, also known as the Straßburger Münster in German.

Its construction began in the late twelfth century and its impressive bell tower and spire were added more than 120 years after the start of construction, which I might add was never completed, since the addition of a second right tower and spire never came to fruition. The outside at night is spectacular, the interior and exterior lighting provide an excellent balance to show the real grandeur of this cathedral.

Of course, this is balanced well by the stained-glass windows illuminated by the sun in the early morning hours. The interior also houses an ecclesiastical astronomical clock which was built in the early 1570s.

Get here early, usually before ten o’clock, otherwise the tour groups from the Viking cruises start to assemble and you will have little chance, the line often snakes all the way out the courtyard and around the block!

Palace Rohan

Across the river Ill from our hotel was the Rohan Palace, which houses several museums. We toured the Museum of Decorative Arts, just to get a view of the palace from inside.

We all found the decorative arts inside the museum a bit avant-guarde for our tastes, but typically French. The interior of the palace for the most part met expectations.

Pont du Faisan

Built in 1888 this is a working example of an old hydraulic swing bridge. Below is a short video showing it in operation. First the two ends are closed for traffic, then the operator swings the bridge to allow boats through the gate. We were able to see this as a pedestrian and on the Strasbourg sightseeing tour boat. It is a very interesting piece of engineering and on a small scale, perhaps better than raising a bridge.

Ponts Couverts de Strasbourg

This Ponts Couverts is a set of thirteen century covered bridges and towers on the southwest part of the island. Initially a battlement and constructed of wood, the roofs were later removed and eventually the bridges were rebuilt in stone.

At least one of them was made into a prison and it was later told, though falsely, that executions were also carried out there, though there is no evidence of this happening.

Hotel Cour Du Corbeau

A very good hotel that is strategically located close to the old city center in Krutenau is the Hotel Cour Du Corbeau. It is situated just across the river Ill and two blocks away from the cathedral. Parking for cars is only a block away and many restaurants and cafes are within ten minutes walking distance.

Since we were arriving by train, we took the D Tram from the Central Station and got off at the Hospital stop. From there we were only a ten minute walk away.

The hotel is a smartly renovated and modernized version of an old inn that was used by workmen that worked at the tanneries and other places throughout the city. It maintains many of the old beams and architectural elements of the old building. However, it includes air-conditioning and many other modern amenities.

Although you may initially find their 27€ price for breakfast a bit steep, it is well worth it since they provide both hot and cold buffet items, as well as a wide selection of coffees.

Restaurants

Being a very busy tourist spot, Strasbourg has a plethora of restaurants, anything from traditional Alsatian food, to Chinese and other cosmopolitan cuisines. So you shouldn’t go hungry, even without a reservation.

Maison Des Tanneurs

The House of the Tanners restaurant was the furthest of all the restaurants from our hotel and took a good fifteen minute walk to reach.

Located in the far southwest corner of the island and near the Ponts Couverts it commands a nice view of the river Ill. So, if you want window side seat, reserve your seat early, we arrived at our reservation time and the sign was already posted on the menu outside – totally booked this evening.

La Piazza

We ate here on a first night and it is a decent restaurant with pretty good Italian food. We sat inside near the wood burning over, so the pizza they made for us was using the traditional method. The service was fine and our drinks met all of our expectations. However, the toilet left much to be desired, I suggest you become prepared to avoid a visit.

Au Tire Bouchon

Another excellent Alsatian restaurant choice is the Au Tire Bouchon. Though it does not have the view the House of Tanners provides, the food is on par with that establishment.

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Catania, Sicily – In The Shadow Of Etna

Continuing our journeys on the eastern coast of Sicily, we arrived at Catania. A port city and working town that believe it or not, is even grittier than Naples.

Catania

Existing in the shadow of a large, ever erupting volcano, would seem like a fool’s errand. But the people of Catania do it everyday and only give it a second thought. Luckily, the volcano has not had a major eruption in some time, and since it’s monitored continuously, most people try to ignore it.

The city has at least one good park near the city center that is easy to visit. The Villa Bellini and Park Maestranze is right off of Via Etnea and has some great views of the volcano and a very quiet place to visit.

Mount Etna

The presence of Etna is felt everywhere, from the architecture, to the items some of the shops sell, to the very grit you grind under your feet as you walk. Even though as you walk the streets and cannot see it, it will rear its ugly snow-capped head as you round a corner, or ascend some lookout in the city.

Theaters and Baths

Many of the ruins in and around Catania contain theaters and baths from the Greek and Roman periods.

The Roman Amphitheater

A stone’s throw away from our hotel the amphitheater forces all the traffic to go around it. There is not much story behind the amphitheater other than in the fourth century the town’s people had started robbing it stones for building material. Later it was almost completely covered up by a building project in the eighteenth century. It was later rediscovered and preserved as part of an urban archeological site.

The Roman Baths

Very close to the Greek and Roman Theater are the Roman Baths. They appear to be part of a city walking audio tour, but since we did not visit the information center, we have no other details on the site.

The Greek and Roman Theater

Labeled the Roman Theater, it was actually established by the Greeks and later rebuilt as a Roman Theater. There is an entrance fee for this exhibit, which again seems to be repurposed for shows. Though there is ample space to take photographs to get a good idea of how it used to look.

Churches, Cathedral and Basilicas

There are numerous churches and other religious structures of note all throughout Catania. The most noteworthy one is the Cathedral of Catania.

Church of San Nicolò l’Arena

A large unfinished artifice is the Church of San Nicolò l’Arena. It was started in the late 17th century and interrupted by the large earthquake of 1693. The dome and inside were later completed, but the facade remains unfinished sadly even to this day.

This church has a secret though, for small fee you may ascend its narrow spiral staircase to the roof for its impressive view of the city.

From this perch you can also get an amazing shot at Mount Etna.

The Benedictine Monastery

Along the left side of the church of San Nicolò l’Arena is the Monastery of the Benedictines. Unfortunately,

it is only open for guided tours and they were completely booked up when we inquired with school groups and other tour groups. We were lucky however to get a glimpse of some of the grounds which is also used as part of the university, which holds lectures on philosophy and other classical topics.

 

Basilica of Saint Agatha

This basilica has a Sicilian Baroque facade that was designed by Vaccarini in the early 18th century. It has a clock tower and a large piazza outside it to support its impressive entrance.

The interior is very large and has ten or twelve sub-chapels along its walls. There are three main altars, the two are the sides appear to be lit at all times, while the main alter, along with its wooden pulpit is probably only used to special occasions.

Our Hotel – Hotel Liberty

This hotel is situated above the main thoroughfare of Via Etnea (Etna) and just outside what would be perceived as the nice part of the city. It is most likely, the nice part of town has moved over time and now it finds itself a bit on the margins; but it is a great four-star hotel and the rooms are really great. The staff is very courteous and knowledgeable. Irons are not in the rooms but are available for those seeking to touch up their clothes after a hard travel.

We were booked into a luxury room and upgraded to the Estasi suite, it was almost as big as our entire apartment in Turin!

Restaurants

Like any large city, Catania has a variety of restaurants to choose from, including Asian and other cuisines. Since our stay was so short we stuck with the local favorites and something new as well.

La Taverna Del Grande Albergo

This is a very good restaurant with excellent typical Sicilian food. It has a limited menu, but that’s what makes it so great. What ever is on the menu is delicious. It was so good in fact, we ate here both evenings.

Forma Ristorante

A new kind of boutique restaurant, it has a select menu of typical dishes created with some style. The outside seating is under a very large tree where you can enjoy your food and the great weather. The staff is fairly energetic and responds quickly if you require any assistance or your bill. As with most establishments in Italy, you pay inside at the cashier.

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Syracuse, Sicily – Ash And Puppets

Syracuse

Syracuse, or Siracusa as you will find it readily marked throughout the island, is one of the first places of historic significance within Italy. It was inhabited in ancient times and finally settled by the Greeks in the early eight century BCE.

The original settlement of the Greeks was on the small island of Ortigia, which still contains several historical and archaeological artifacts from the Greek and Roman periods. See the Ortigia section below for more on that part of the commune and city.

Syracuse is divided into three main parts, Ortigia the island and original Greek settlement, Santa Lucia along the coast and the location of our hotel, and the Neapolis the location of the major Greek and Roman ruins .

If you are at this point wondering what ash and puppets have to do with Sicily, and in particular Syracuse, read further. Otherwise, just rest assured it has everything to do with being on this quaint and wonderful island.

Note: Purchase the Museum and Park Combination Ticket at 18€. If you purchase them separately, it will cost you an extra 8€.  The combination ticket will get you into both, with money left over for a light lunch.

Archaeological Museum

The Archaeological Museum is an impressive collection of ancient, Greek and Roman artifacts dating back to the seventh and eighth centuries.

The museum handles each time period in a sequential fashion, starting with the ancient period of the pre-historic animals and tectonic changes to the area, all the way to the arrival of the Greeks and other colonial powers.

More than one area within the south-eastern coast of Sicily is addressed, as well as other major areas to the north and in the center. In all, the museum provides an excellent historical picture of the island of Sicily.

Archaeological Park

The Archaeological Park, also known as the Neapolis Archaelogical Park of Syracuse, is situated about two and a half kilometers from the island of Ortigia. However, a brisk walk can get you there in about twenty or so minutes.

Tickets may be purchased at the gate, now across the newly blue painted intersection.

If you follow the signs, like we did, you will be taken to group ticket sales, which will still sell you tickets, but its out of the way and you will have to walk through a path of vendors before actually finding the ticket booth.

Latomia or Grottos

When you enter the Neapolis the first thing to visit is the Grotto, or the large quarry where they used to mine stone for building. This is a huge cutout in the surrounding rock face which is about fifty or so meters in height.

It appears to have had several cave-ins in the past, which probably occurred as they were mining the stone. There is evidence of the former inhabitants leaving large columns behind in an attempt to prevent additional cave-ins from occurring. Whether they were successful or not, it is not known, there are no information signs or other historical information provided at the site.

The Greek Theater

Built into the side of the hill, the Greek Theater was originally constructed in the fifth century BCE and later re-constructed several times, including by the Romans. Currently it has been further modified by the contemporary Syracusians for use as a theater again, building a scaffold like theater on top of the pre-existing Greek Theater, in order to have out-door performances and other events.

Behind the theater is a necropolis and grotto, both of which may be visited while visiting the structure.

The Roman Theater

The Roman Theater is found on the way out of the park complex and extends to the exit for some way.

Island Of Ortigia

Ortigia, also known as Ortygia or Citta Vecchia (old city), is an island within the city of Syracuse. It is connected to the mainland and the rest of Syracuse by two bridges, the Umbertino Bridge and the Bridge of Santa Lucia.

At the entrance of the ancient city is the Temple of Apollo. This is the first site anyone will see upon entering the city. Continuing around the temple visitors will automatically ascend the Corso Giacomo Matteotti, or the main street. This is the main shopping street, containing all contemporary brands and shops and will lead one to the Fountain of Diana.

From this traffic-circle; going to the left will take one to the Puppet museum and theater, and the eastern part of the island; going right will take one to the Piazza Duomo and the tourist shopping street, which will also take you to the Syracuse Cathedral.

Puppet Museum

This is an interesting little museum covering the history of a specific heritage of puppet making on the island of Ortigia. Therefore, the puppets are specifically built around tales and folklore of the people of Sicily.

The puppets range in size from small (approx. 20cm in height), all the way to life size. There are many examples of finished products and some of contemporary origin. One display also shows the progression of making a puppet, from the carving stage through final assembly. All very instructive.

Puppet Theater

I was originally hesitant to go the Puppet Theater. But after attending a show, I am glad I had. Not only does the host explain the tale in great detail in English, before it is performed. But the actually acting and enactment of the tale was so compelling, I was captivated, even though I had no idea what was being said at many points during the performance.

The theater space is very personal, with only enough room for about 50-60 people, and they will seat others if needed in the aisle (on the steps). Therefore, if you need to take any medically necessary precautions in cramped quarters, be prepared before you arrive.

Maniace Castle

The Maniace Castle sits at the tip of Ortigia and commands an open view of the Ionian Sea. It is a rather simple structure in function and betrays itself to its many uses down through the ages by its many apparent modifications, including the installation of the lighthouse.

It is however complete with a moat, or in this case, a large drained sunken area where you can wander and only guess what it used to be like back in the day.

Cathedral Of Syracuse

In the center of Ortigia sits the Cathedral of Syracuse, a large and fairly simple structure as cathedrals go, having no real apse, but only central and left naves.

The inside however is impressive and elegant and worth a visit. The outside of the cathedral displays Doric columns of the original Temple of Athena, which stood on this site prior to the building of the edifice.

Our Hotel

Hotel Musciara Resort

For the six nights we stayed in Syracuse, we stayed at the Musciara Resort. This boutique resort is located about a 15 minute walk from Ortigia Island and has its own beach. It is a three-star hotel, but it is expertly appointed and maintained. There are only about a dozen or so rooms, so book early if interested. It is a on the pricey side, so if you are able, use points.

Though we did not use the beach at them, since there was a severe upper level low causing rain for many days, we know a set of two lounge chairs and table will cost 110€/day for those wishing to enjoy the water or work on that tan.

Restaurants

The cuisine of Syracuse is of course based mainly on the sea, so people who love fish will definitely enjoy themselves. There are myriads of fish to choose from, as well as octopus, squid, cuttlefish and assorted shell fish.

Trattoria Archimede

We ate lunch here and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. They have a nice garden where one can enjoy an relaxes lunch away from the hustle and bustle of Piazza Duomo.

The food is typical and simple for Sicilian cuisine. We picked basic items, along with the house wine and had a very nice lunch. The staff were attentive and had a very good grasp of English, so communicating in my broken Italian, although appreciated, was not totally necessary, our waiter spoke and understood Italian, English, French and German.

Ristorante Sicilia In Tavola

A gastronomic pleasure with an unpretentious interior is Ortigia’s In Tavola Ristorante.

Here, as with many other place, they have home-made pasta and spaghetti. However, we ordered fish, swordfish for me and mackerel for Patti. For dessert we had lemon pie and a cannolo, along with an coffee and an aperitif, the a Sicilian Amaro, for 77€ for two people.

Ristorante Cine

Having been eating Italian and SIcilian food for too long, we tried RIstorante Cine and really like it. Though the ingredients are different from what we are used to in Turin and the States (though not unusual), the owner was more than happy to alter any dishes to our tastes. We only ate lunch here and for two, we were able to order an appetizer, primi (vegetable rice) and secondi (chicken or pork or vegetables in white sauce), along with a half carafe of red wine, water, coffee and sambuca for under 30€! It is hard to beat that in a tourist area.

La Tavernetta Da Piero Fuori Ortigia

We ate lunch here on Sunday, the 21st of May, 2023, after visiting the Archaeological Park and when unbeknownst to us Mount Etna was erupting.

After we finished and began walking back to the hotel, we noticed dust getting in our eyes. At the time we had no idea why and surmised that the recent bad storm had brought in dust from Africa, which can occasionally happen. When we read the next day that the Catania Airport had closed due to ash if finally dawned on us that it had been the ash from the volcano all those miles away that was the cause.

Gelateria

If you are looking for gelati in Sicily, do not buy the brightly colored ones, usually they are made of inferior ingredients. Instead, look for the Artiginale label. Though you will pay more for a cone of cup of this, it will be far more worth your while in taste later.

Levante Gelateria

Another good Gelateria, providing excellent artisanal gelati. I was particularly fond of their Amerano and Pistachio flavors.

Fior Di Latte Gelati

Finding very good gelati anywhere in Italy is not a difficult task, here is no exception. It has great artiginale (artisanal) flavors, I ordered the Ortigia and Note Di Sicilia, and Patti ordered the Note Di Sicilia, Mandarin Orange and Dark Chocolate with a hint of orange.

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Vienna, Austria – Bewitching Belvedere

Below the cacophony of Vienna’s innere Stadt, the Resselpark, Karlskirche and the Kärtner Ring is a rather large conglomeration of museums, gardens and fountains is the Belvedere Palace.

Belvedere Palace and Gardens

Belvedere

The palace and its gardens are divided in two, known as the Oberen (Upper) and Unteren (Lower) Belvedere. Between them one can find the exceptional gardens of the palace called the Belvedere Gardens. To the right of this are also the Botanical Gardens, which we did not have time to visit.

Upper Belvedere

This museum holds the primary collection of the Belvedere, including many famous artists, Austria’s own Klimt and others like Monet, Rodin and Schiele. Words cannot describe what a slow walk and intense focus on these works feels like unless you visit these works in person. Second best is a slide show on those pieces that I found the most moving and interesting of the collection, enjoy.

Belvedere Gardens

A marvelous September day, a breeze with some chill and a beautiful garden go hand in hand, especially when you can share it with someone; in this case, my wife.

We had a great time just slowly walking through the gardens and listening to the fountains, enjoying the landscape[1]Which is being prepared for the Belvedere’s up and coming Jubilee next year in 2023. and the stillness that you do not get in other parts of this very busy city.

Lower Belvedere

This part of the museum contains more off-beat art works. Mostly contemporary artists and works, the Joseph Rebell collection, which goes back to the early 1800s, is extremely good and important. His landscapes of Naples, Vesuvius and other parts of the Mediterranean. Again, it is best to view these works in the context of a slide show.

That concludes our visit to Vienna. We found it a fast paced interesting place to visit that eagerly welcomes tourists. Extremely cosmopolitan where it is easier to find an Italian restaurant than a traditional Viennese one, but such is the price of progress and tourism. For that, one might have to venture further, perhaps to Graz, or even Güssing in Burgenland.

References

References
↑1 Which is being prepared for the Belvedere’s up and coming Jubilee next year in 2023.
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Vienna, Austria – Eine Gruft Und Mehr

Vienna Sights Above And Under

In Vienna, as with many older cities in Europe, there are interesting things to see not only above ground, but below as well. Today was a rainy day and we had to deal with as best we could, that could have meant museums, but everyone else had that idea. In attempt to continue to avoid crowded place, whenever possible, we decided on the offbeat.

Vienna – Vermählungsbrunnen

Schweizertor – The Swiss Gate

The swiss gate is the oldest gate or door and part of the Hofburg, dating back to the 1300s. It is part of the original square castle that included four turrets on each corner. It’s not much to see, but is a remarkable color red.

Vienna – Schweizertur – Swiss Gate

Die Ankeruhr

The Anker Clock is located on Hoher Markt, next to the Judengasse.

It chimes and performs a small show every noon time, otherwise all you will witness is an hourly chime, as follows.

Kapuzinergruft – Kaisergruft –  Habsburg Tomb

If you are at all interested in the Habsburgs, and perhaps where they might be buried, look no further than the Kapuzinergruft. Also called the Kaisergruft or Habsburg Tomb, it is located on Neuer Markt and next to the Kapuziner Kloster.

Vienna – Kapuzinergruft – Kaiser Gruft or Crypt – Tickets For Two

The gruft contains many of the families of the Habsburgs and Habsburg-Lothringen and includes a genealogy of the members who rest in this place. Some of the coffins also have amazing details, most of which have to do with wars[1]I sometime wonder when we are going to get over or need for that exercise in futility.

Restaurants

Grand Hotel Wien – Breakfast Lounge

If you stay at the Grand Hotel Wien,  you should look into any combination package that offers breakfast. Unless you are an extremely light eater in the morning, you will not do much better outside. They have a hot and cold menu (buffet), and the portion size is well managed, so you won’t have to worry about walking around with a lot of extra weight.

Vienna – Grand Hotel Wien – Breakfast

Café Central

One of the oldest cafes in Vienna, the Café Central is located in the old Palais Ferstel building on the corner of Herren- and Strauchgasse. Famous personages like Freud and Trotsky have visited this establishment, though today the conversations today, one could say, are less political or analytical.

Vienna – Cafe Central – Building and entrance

We made reservations for lunch and commend anyone do that same. The line waiting to get in can be long and when it rains out, as it did today, you do not want to find yourself getting wet before sitting down after a twenty or so minute wait.

The food is good and traditional. I can commend a good red wine from Burgenland called Blaufränkish, which is served by the glass for around 5.50€. It is an excellent accompaniment for Wüstchens and Gulash soup. It is very busy, so service can be intermittent at times, so be patient.

References

References
↑1 I sometime wonder when we are going to get over or need for that exercise in futility
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Vienna, Austria – An Amaranthine Albertina

Viennese Museums

Anyone visiting Vienna has to have museums on the top of their list of things-to-do. This city is home to many extraordinary examples of very good museums, some even housed in former palaces. The Albertina is just such an example and a must see when visiting Vienna, their collection of fine art is, shall we say, first rate.

Vienna – The Natural History Museum – Naturhistorisches Museum Wien

Some Museums of Vienna

In fact, there are so many museums in Vienna, it is perhaps difficult to list them all. Below are a few that we visited and thoroughly enjoyed, along with a few photographs, just to remember the important works of art that are there.

The Hofburg

A complex of museums and a library, which we found out only allows users who are doing research or have special permission. Though we did not see any museums here, it does include a World Museum and a Papyrus Museum.

Maria-Theresien-Platz

Sitting across from one another, on the Maria-Theresien Platz, are the Art History and Natural History museums. This impressive public square was built  with the public in mind, where they could come and enjoy the museums and stroll the grounds afterwards. The square is joined on the one end by the Museumquartier and on the other by the Burgring (Ringstraße), across which lies the Hofburg.

Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien

Across the Burgring from the Hofburg is the Art History Museum of Vienna, or the Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien. It houses unique art pieces collected by the Habsburgs during their reign.

The Albertina

Formerly a palace, the Albertina was rebuilt after the Second World War and refurbished at the turn of the millennium. It contains collections of works by Monet, Picasso, Dürer and Da Vinci to name a few, my favorites are the works by Klee and Chagall. Here is a slideshow of some of those works.

Batliner Collection

A famous collection of paintings featuring Monet and Picasso, the Batliner Collection was endowed to the Albertina by Herbert Batliner’s estate. It contains many important collections by modernist artists, including Chagall, Ernst and Klee. Here is a slideshow of what this collection has to offer.

The Habsburg State Rooms

The building also has a collection of state rooms that were used by the archdukes and archduchesses of the Habsburgs. It consists of about twenty rooms of varying styles and designs.

Restaurants

La Scala Trattoria

Yes we know, Italian food in Austria? Yes and yes! It is amazing how many Italian restaurants and trattoria there are here, including chains like Vapiano’s, if you need a quick bite for lunch.

Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala

This was a great pick for lunch, the hosts are very attentive and the food is speedily and well prepared. Though I would say that cuisine that is offered has an almost Rome feel to it, either due to the owners origin or as a response to tourist’s expectations. All in all, you couldn’t any better in Vienna than selecting this place to eat Italian food.

Zum Weissen Rauchfangkehrer

This is an old Viennese restaurant, formerly owned by Sacher[1]The same person one who made the Sacher Torte famous, which was named after the exploits of a chimney sweep who had a torrid love affair with a young woman baker who used to work in the building. After some time of coming out each morning covered in baking flour the locals would jokingly call the place of the White Chimney Sweep.

Vienna – Restaurant Rauchfangkehrer

The food is traditional for this area and very well prepared, the pea soup was marvelous. The Wiener Schnitzel was above average with the breading being very tasty, crusty and separated from the veal, making for a delicious entree. As such, expect to pay above average prices.

Be aware, though we were seated immediately at fifteen after six in the evening, management of getting a table appeared a bit capricious to us. They seem to turn some parties away while accepting others of the same size without reservations. My wife and I were puzzled, so reservations are easy enough to make and probably a good idea.

Vienna – Altstadt – Rauchfangkehrer Viennese Restaurant

A Bit More Of Vienna

Another short slide show of other sights in Vienna we saw while walking around. Enjoy!

References

References
↑1 The same person one who made the Sacher Torte famous
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Aosta, Italy – Alpine Roman Stronghold

Located about two hours north of Turin by train and down a very large valley, is the small city of Aosta (pronounced: Ahh’osta). It is a cute little city of about thirty-five thousands inhabitants and a former ancient Roman military outpost.

Aosta – From Gargantua

We had planned a short trip for Aosta some time ago,  hoping to go there during the hot summer month of July, but we were busy. So, we adjusted our plans to September and glad we did. The valley can be as hot as the Po Valley in  summer and can also have wild swings in weather. So, along with the fact that we had additional plans for Mont Blanc, we prepared both ways, and perhaps in the end packed a bit too heavily.

The Valley

It is located in the Aosta Valley of the same name and is the capital of one of the autonomous regions in Italy. It can be found at the confluence of the rivers Dora Baltea, which starts at the foot of Mont Blanc, and the Buthier, which starts at the foot of the Grandes Murailles glacier and the Valpelline valley.

The City

The city is an ancient Roman enclave and military output,  that was supported by the Roman Empire and an important Roman presences in the first century, guarding the northern pass from barbarians. Augustus Caesar is displayed throughout the city in many bronzes and other forms of statue.

Aosta – Tickets For Two – Archeological Sites Aosta

If you are going to do any meaningful investigation of this city, you must enjoy its many archeological sites. In order to do so, a visit to the information center is needed, its by the Praetorian Gate (or triple bridge), and for a modest 8€/person, you can purchase tickets to all of the important venues in town.

Roman Arch Of Augustus

The enormous Arch of Augustus was built in 25 BCE to commemorate Augustus Caesar’s victory over the Salassis.

Located by the Pietra di Aosta bridge, which goes over the Buthier river, it is a large arch that contains a cross inside.

The Roman Theater

Another important site is the Roman Theater. Apparently in the early 1900s there were several structures built against the entrance, using it as one wall in their buildings. When the government decided that it was an important archeological site, these buildings were raised to prepare the site for excavations.

The Roman Wall and Towers

The city is encircled by a Roman Wall and several towers, four of which mark each corner of the rectangle that is made by the walls.

Collegiate Church of Sant-Orso

The Collegiate Church of Sant-Orso contains both the Church of Sant-Orso and the Cloister.

Aosta – Bell Tower and front of the Church of Sant Orso

Romanesque Cloister of Sant-Orso

A fine example of Romanesque art and cloister architecture the Cloister of Saint Orso.

Aosta – Arches and Columns inside of the Cloister of Sant Orso

Almost every column lining the portico inside the cloister has a unique sculpted capital, depicting strange images of times forgotten. Some of the columns have multiple pillars abutting their capitals, making them even stranger and perhaps more difficult to understand by researchers.

Paleo-Christian Church Of Sant Lorenzo

Of special interest is the small, paleo-christian Church of Saint Lorenzo. An archeological site in its own right, the old church has actually been excavate underneath the existing church of the same name, Church of Sant Lorenzo.

The Cryptoportico

No one actually knows what the Cryptoportico was used for,  it is only known that it was a large rectangular structure with a corresponding lighted basement. It has been conjectured that the layout hints at its use as a marketplace and the cellar as a storage place for grain and other commodities. Unfortunately the slide show provided in the cellar is provided only in Italian, but that appears to only have explained the archeological  details of the excavation and not necessarily its intended use.

Restaurants

Caffe Nazionale

Its claim to fame ostensibly is that it’s the oldest cafe in Aosta. Aside from its coffee being overpriced, its outside seating suffering from the hot sun (no umbrellas) and it only having one staff member taking orders, its coffee and brioche are good. However, when I can purchase two Capucinos and two Brioches of the same or better quality right next to my hotel at half the price, it is definitely not worth it! However, if you want a seat in the Piazza Emile Chanoux to eat breakfast, then it is perhaps one of your only options.

Aosta – Caffe Nazionale – Piazza Emile Chanoux

Ristorante Aldente

A very good restaurant, offering  both inside and outside seating, is Aldente.

Aosta – Ristorante Aldente

They have a full wine list, with a concentration on local and regional wines, so a great place to try something new. The menu has all the local favorites, consisting of a blend of Italian and French cuisines. A great place to eat for a special evening, or just to relax and enjoy great food.

House O Break

A fantastic place for lunch or dinner. We ate here twice, since they have a varied menu with many local specialties at very good prices.

PubBurger

Nothing special, but dying for something different we went to a burger chain here called PubBurger. The burgers are actually pretty good, but the buns are a bit hard, unlike the ones in the States. The quantity of French Fries too was a bit on the small side, considering it is a burger place, but I didn’t complain because the size of the burger was HUGE!

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Udine, Italy – Underrated, Unlikely and Urbane

Udine – A City On The Beaten Path

Somewhere in the northeast of Italy, north and east of even Venice, is the small city of Udine. The largest city before you enter Slovenia to the east and Austria to the north. From here you can see the Austrian and Julian Alps.

Udine – Alps panorama

From Ljubljana we took an Austrian train to Villach and then over to Udine. Along the way were able to enjoy sights of the Julian Alps out our window and just relax.

Probably one of the most underrated and unlikely places we have been this year is Udine. Unlikely, because it is usually not on anyone’s radar, though we met numerous French and German tourists enjoying it. Underrated, because we think it has some things to offer, that others might not find in the exact same way elsewhere.

The people in Udine are very urbane and really enjoy tourist in their small city. They make an extra effort to speak and understand English, where you may not find such proclivities in other Italian cities and towns.

Udine Castle

Destroyed in the sixteenth century by a violent earthquake, the Udine Castle was rebuilt soon afterwards and stands today housing several museums. It actually sits atop an artificial hill, by all accounts ancient and predating Rome in nature, and is the highest and largest artificial hill in Europe.

The Civic Museum of the Risorgimento

This museum has artifacts from local historic events following the fall of Venice, up to the time of the mid 1800s. Including documents and written accounts of the annexation of Friuli to the Kingdom of Italy in 1866.

The Archaeological Museum

This museum contains an impressive ancient coin collection and other artifacts from ancient and Roman times. Including amphorae, old oil lamps and other funerary objects. Though a small collection, it was rather interesting to learn where each was found locally and their relative histories.

Gallery of Ancient Art

A gallery of art comprising works of local artists from the fourteenth to the nineteenth centuries. Most of the work appear religious in nature. Some of those that caught my eye in particular are the following.

Diorama of the Battle of Montebello

Complete with a map showing the order of battle, this diorama clicks all the right boxes for the model builder at heart.

Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Diorama – Order of the Battle of Montebello

The museum  has an extraordinary diorama of the Battle of Montebello. For anyone that is or was a model builder, or a warfare historian, one can stand and just marvel at it for some time.

Churches

There are several noteworthy churches in the area, though we were not actually able to visit all of them inside.

Chapel of Palazzo del Monte di Pietà

A chapel, which has beautiful frescoes and is now actually part of the bank  Intesa Sanpaolo, is in the Palazzo del Monte di Pietà. Often walked right by tourists, if they are not paying attention, this chapel is a gem, see for yourself.

Church of Saint Maria di Castello

A church that is at the top of the hill and adjacent to the Castel is the Saint Maria di Castello. Complete with bell tower, a remarkable example

Udine – Church of Saint Maria

Cathedral Santa Maria Annuziata

The Cathedral of Santa Maria Annuziata is known for its octagonal bell tower. It can be seen from the castle hill, along with the church which is a major landmark in the city. Formerly consecrated as the Cathedral of Santa Maria Maggiore in 1335, it has three naves and chapels along the sides. Since it was not open at the time, we were only able to get some photographs of the outside.

The Corte di Palazzo Morpurgo is also close by the front of the cathedral, so just wandering across the street from the front of the church should bring you there.

Hotels

We chose the Astoria Hotel Italia for its old world charm, eschewing some of the more contemporary offers that were available. When we travel, it’s one of those things that can set off one place from another.

The Astoria Hotel Italia

The hotel Astoria Italia has maintained itself as though it fits into the landscape. It sports new amenities, like contemporary and renovated bathrooms (a must), while keeping some of that old world charm. I disagree with putting contemporary style beds in such old rooms, which they clearly want to preserve, but I am probably in the minority (I rather prefer, if its old keep old, like it came out of the nineteenth century, then you get that step-back-in-time feel).

Udine – Astoria Hotel

In any case, our hotel was great and provided a very central place from which to explore the rest of the old city.

Restaurants

The restaurants in Udine serve typical northern Italian fare, with some twists for Tyrolean and other close neighbors. It is a fairly cosmopolitan city and one can find Sushi and other worldly franchise food here, so selecting a place to eat should not be an issue.

Ristorante Pizzeria Al Gelso

This restaurant was right around the corner from our hotel, in fact, it is actually adjacent to it (without us knowing). We walked around the corner anyways and entered it from the garden seating direction each time, even though there was a main entrance on the main street. The food is excellent, all with that home-cooked taste, and there’s pizza for those who are unsure what they want, everyone likes pizza!

Osteria Alla Ghiacciaia

A lazy and very relaxing restaurant right next to the canal, a perfect place for lunch or dinner.

Udine – Osteria Alla Ghiacciaia – Seating by the canal

We really enjoyed our lunch here, watching the darning-needles, or dragon-flies, flit back and forth over the stream. Although this restaurant becomes very busy for lunch, the service was especially good and punctual, so anyone having problems waiting (which is most common in Italy), it might be a place to visit. The food is very good, fresh and delicately spiced. We kept it simple, bean soup for a started, followed by salads, just to keep things a bit light.

Trattoria Antica Maddalena

This trattoria has a bit of an upscale palette, with a menu and prices to match. As our last evening in Udine, we chose it for its high ratings and interesting looking menu. Unfortunately I forgot to take a photograph of the outside of the establishment, but have a few of the upstairs. You may want to book reservations if you want to sit outside, when we arrived the outside and downstairs seating were completely booked. So act early, if you want to enjoy this restaurant and its food with a street view!

Epilog

We leave Udine as the endpoint in our latest trip, which has taken us from one part of Italy – Trieste, through Slovenia and a little bit of Austria, back to Italy and underrated Udine. Though we both ate too much, we really enjoyed this trip and had several surprises along the way, which made it all that more memorable.

Udine – Main Train Station

So, if you are ever on a train traveling east from Milan, perhaps to Venice, Austria or Slovenia, you may want to stop at Udine to see what it has to offer. We stopped on our way back and were not disappointed, we think you wont be either. Happy travels!

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Ljubljana, Slovenia – The Dragon City

Ljubljana – From Castle Hill

Continuing our Summer Trip of eastern Italy and Slovenia, and after a two and a half hour train ride from Trieste, is the charming city of Ljubljana, Slovenia. Actually, much to my surprise, stepping off the train there was a noticeable cleanliness to it all which rarely, if ever, went away. We even noticed this in some of the more off-beat areas and in other towns, that we ventured to on our day trips.

The Slovenians are no doubt a very orderly, patient people. This can also be witnessed in their driving, since it is very rare, almost uncommon to hear the sound of a horn. When asked, “Why is this?”, most reply with the simple retort, “Well it’s simply rude, and in most cases, unnecessary.”

Ljubljana – The Main Train Station

Ljubljana, Lublana and Laybach

Ljubljana is a very old city, dating back to the twelfth and eleventh centuries, though a town called Emona stood here during Roman times. Myths and stories have linked it to Jason and the Argonauts and his struggles, and the killing of the great beast which inhabited the marsh nearby[1]This is where the metaphor of the dragon comes in., which apparently was responsible for the great floods that occurred frequently. It later became synonymous with Ljubljana in the mid-twelfth century.

Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Dragons Bridge

Bridges In Lubljana

There are several noteworthy bridges in the city, the Dragon Bridge, the Triple Bridge, the Cobbler’s Bridge and the Butcher’s Bridge. There are several others, however these are the ones we spent the most time on and are the most remarkable.

The Dragon’s Bridge

Due to the myth it is probably appropriate that the city have a dragon bridge, one not only to remember Jason’s deeds, but also the ever present danger of the river itself.

The  Triple  Bridge

Not far from our hotel and adjacent to Prešeren Square is the Triple Bridge. It was originally one bridge, the central span, but as business and traffic increased the other two side bridges were added for pedestrian traffic.

The Cobbler’s Bridge

A quaint bridge that connects two important parts of the medieval city.

The Butcher’s Bridge

This bridge got its name, since it was near the place that the butchers of the city used to come and wash the carcasses of the animals. The blood and stench of rotting flesh this process brought down through the city must have been appalling. The practice was stopped soon after the residents had had enough of the smell. It is now decorated with locks and bronzes of mythological creatures.

Castle Hill

There are two prominent hills in Ljubljana, the one that contains Tivoli Park and Castle Hill, which contains the Ljubljana Castle.

Ljubljana – Ljubljana Castle

Ljubljana Castle

Ljubljana – Ljubljana Castle – Tickets For Two

Perched above the city on the Castle Hill is the Ljubljana Castle. In 1679, Valvasor did an engraving of the Laybach Castle, as it was known in German at the time, showing the castle and many other landmarks of Lublana.[2]There are many spelling variations for this city, due to it being part of many different empires and countries throughout its history.

The Ljubljanica River

As it goes through the city the river is split into two. A major section goes directly through the old city, offering tourists the possibility of buying a ticket and traveling part of it, up to where it divides. The boats cannot venture too far however, since parts of the river are reserved for wildlife and cannot be entered.

Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River

Sitting at one of the many cafes along the  waterway, one can wile away the afternoon sipping a drink and just watching the boats meander along.

Boat Tours

Both looking at the tour boats ply the water and actually taking a boat trip is both relaxing and very enjoyable. We decided one evening to take one and see where it actually goes and found it very interesting.

Walking Tour Of The City

Here is a slideshow of some of the other sights in the city.

Restaurants

Gostilna Sokol Restaurant

Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant

This is a traditional Slovenian restaurant, service many of the authentic dishes and also some non-Slovenian favorites, so anyone who visits can find something to eat. For us it was the traditional fried sausage, or Kranjska Klobasa with pickled turnips and roasted potatoes.

Cantina Mexicana Restaurant

Ljubljana – Cantina Mexicana Restaurant –

The Cantina Mexicana is a very good mexican restaurant that features both Mexican and Tex-Mex cuisine. It wasn’t too difficult to find something appetizing among the enormous selection of food they offer in their menu.

References

References
↑1 This is where the metaphor of the dragon comes in.
↑2 There are many spelling variations for this city, due to it being part of many different empires and countries throughout its history.
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Trieste, Italy – Faro Della Vittoria and More

The Rest of Trieste

Before our time here was over, we still had several remaining places throughout Trieste in which to visit. Mainly the waterfront further down along the marina, a few piazzas, the XX September and the Victoria Lighthouse.

XX September

A beautiful avenue on which to shop, eat or just walk on a hot day (it is covered with trees, so there is plenty of shade). We found time to visit this street a few times, since the train and bus stations we use were more or less inline with it. See restaurants section for more information on possible places to eat.

If you are looking for something off-beat to eat, fast food or eclectic stores to shop, this is the street.

The Marina

There are several things to note at the marina, as well as the very large cruise ships that come into port on the weekends to visit. Though the Aquarium is closed for renovation, there are still shops and restaurants along this waterfront in which to enjoy.

The Muzio de Tommasini Park

Located very near the Piazza Oberdan is the park Muzio de Tommasini. A beautiful park with several bronze sculptors visitors can enjoy, awaits you here.

The Faro Della Vittoria Lighthouse

In order to reach the Faro della Vittoria lighthouse, you either have to drive, or take a taxi or bus, there is no train service to it.

Buses 42 and 44, from Piazza Oberdan, can take you here in twenty minutes for a modest fee of about one euro sixty. We purchased the all-day ticket for three euros each, which was actually cheaper, since it covered both going there and our return.

At over sixty meters in height, the lighthouse is one of the tallest in the world. Inside there is a small museum and the circular stairway that ascends to the first viewing deck, about fifty steps. Though we arrived during the weekend, the upper part of the lighthouse was no longer open.

Restaurants

Bella de Napoli

A small restaurant on XX September that serves Neapolitan fare is Bella Napoli. We stopped for lunch and had a very good meal for under forty euros.