Tag: piedmont

Posted on

Ivrea, Italy – Lake Sirio Repose

Ivrea, Italy – Lake Sirio Repose

After a day of familiarizing ourselves with the town Ivrea, it was time to do some hiking and see the surrounding countryside. Though probably not known to the layperson, the lakes and surrounding area were formed by glacier activity around 9700 BCE. All five lakes and the long, gradual hill in the distance that is not a mountain of the Alps, are actually glacial moraines from that time. Here, after a long hike, we were able to repose along Lake Sirio for a long and needed lunch, as well as a magnificent view.

The Five Lakes Hike

In and around Ivrea are hiking trails known as the Five Lakes Hike through which part of the Via Francigena trail also passes. None of the hiking trails are difficult, per se, however many of the surfaces are poor, so hiking shoes or a good trekking shoe is commended.

Unfortunately, due to time and the weather, we were unable to visit all of them and had to forgoe seeing Lake Nero and Lake Campagna. Luckily, they appear very similar to the ones below that we were able to visit, so no harm done.

Lake Sirio

Our first lake that we encountered was Lake Sirio, perhaps the largest of the five and it has the comenserate amount of lake resources around it for swimming, sunbathing and other activities.

The trail winds around this lake perhaps three quarters of the way and then veers off into the woods towards Lake Pistono. We followed the trail and then made a wide circle back around, essentially making a circle, to revisit this lake and have lunch at Restaurant Il Cigno.

Lake Pistono

Lake Piston is a smaller lake and only offers a few trails to get close to the lake. We found this lake surrounded by more water, which also means more insects, so bug lotion or spray is recommended, they are voracious!

This lake has one distinction, it is home to one of the Big Benches, which can be found throughout Piedmont in different areas and settings. Such projects make it fun and interesting to get out and find such silly objects. However, having said that, most are in areas that are out of the way and may present difficulty for some. But if you are able, the sights can be beautiful, so go for it!

Lake San Michele

A smaller lake and closer to Ivrea is lake San Michele. Though we had some bother getting there and visited the Chapel of the Three Kings unintentionally, since the Italians with money just love to block public access to things, even roads, if they can do so.

So, we were unable to continue our travels using the Via Boaro, since it is blocked by a gate and a fancy house with video surveillance, so if you have the same idea – don’t bother. Instead, use the Via Cascinette and Via Lago San Michele roads to get to the lake. There is a lake park entrance that may be used, or you can continue on Via Lago S. Michele and see the lake once you round the bend in the road.

Churches And Chapels

Though not known for the churches or chapels, there are a few that can be visited in the area. We found the following when we continued our Five Lakes Hike the next day. The Sanctuary was open, but the chapel appears closed, perhaps for good.

Restaurants

Il Cigno

We made note of this restaurant on Lake Sirio when we were outbound headed for Lake Pistono and made plans to swing back around for lunch. It has amazing seating right along the shore of the lake with marvelous views of the Graian Alps.

The food is good and prices are reasonable. We were here during the off-season, but one can easily imagine that it gets quite busy in the summer, especially on the weekends, so plan accordingly.

Ristorante Pizzeria da Romano

Not far from our hotel, Hotel 3T, along the Stata Stradale (SS26) is the Ristorante Pizzeria da Romano. We ate here one evening only because we did not want to venture from the hotel, who’s restaurant unfortunately was closed.

Here is where you will find all the locals looking for excellent pizza at great prices. We ordered a salad, two pizzas, half liter of wine and water for around thirty Euros.

La Gustiera

Another good place to eat, but come early if you do not have reservations, is La Gustiera Osteria. Located on Via Quattro Martiri, La Gustiera offers a select menu every evening of authentic Piedmont cuisine, perhaps half fish and half meat, so something for everyone’s taste.

Trattoria Monferrato

Almost directly in the old city center on Via Gariglietti is the Trattoria Monferrato. Having trouble finding a place to eat elsewhere, we found a table free here on a Saturday just by luck.

The food here was very good, a cross between home cooking and something made by a chef. The pork filet with gravy was delicious, along with a side of potatoes and some wine the meal was very enjoyable. Knowing the difficulty we had finding a place to eat, we shared our large table for six with a German couple from Frieburg and had a very entertaining conversation about them traveling through Italy on E-Bike.

Our Hotel

We stayed at one hotel for the entire weekend on the north side of town, only to have more convenience leaving on our hikes.

Hotel 3T

A rather modern hotel with most amenities. The hotel staff can be a bit problematic on the weekends, since we had to ask a few times for towels and toilet paper. So, attention to detail is not a priority.

Another drawback was the restaurant, which was closed for dinner, so we had to go every night, which can be annoying if you had a long and tiring hike. However, the hotel is clean and the bed and pillows were very comfortable, a big plus when you need a good night’s rest.

Posted on

Ivrea, Italy – A Piedmont Weekend

Ivrea, Italy – A Piedmont Weekend

If you are into hiking and enjoy a really good weekend excursion, then the Metropolitan town of Turin has something great to offer, the tiny little town of Ivrea. Known for being part of the Via Francigena[1]The ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome. and Five Lake hiking area, it is a great place to spend a few days.

Getting There

This town can be reached in just under an hour’s train ride from Porta Nuovo in Turin. The Regional Veloce (RV) runs directly from the main train station, through Porta Susa and onto Ivrea. Unfortunately, the line no longer continues to Aosta, so those who are stopping over have to use the bus service to continue their journeys.

The Hotel

We stayed at the Hotel 3T on Via Sant’Ulderico, a modern hotel that has most of the amenities. One thing I disliked about this hotel, at least during this time of year (Spring), is that the thermostat makes you believe you have control over the temperature in your room, when in fact you don’t!

The Town

The town is cut in two by the Dora Baltea river, which offers a few courses for avid kayakers and seems to draw them from all over. The river here cuts right through the native diorite rock, which can be seen everywhere you look and presents a dark geologic hardness that makes it such a stable building foundation; practically everything, including the hospital, is built on it.

There is not much to the town itself, just the Lungodora, or walkway along the river, and one central main street where one can find most of the shops, cafes and other stores.

Castle Saubauda

A large rectangular castle built in the fourteenth century by the Savoy family. It is only open certain times during the year and one has to reserve their guided tour ahead of time. We were only able to see the outside and sometimes at night it is lit up in different colors.

Ivrea Cathedral

Actually known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of Saint Mary, or Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, is very close to the castle on the hilltop. It is in need of restoration and there are several, apparently small projects already underway inside the cathedral.

Inside the cathedral is actually quite impressive. The nave is well decorated with ceiling frescoes and religious art. It is quite dark and reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel before that was restored and suffers from decades, if not centuries or candle and other smoke.

The Crypt

The main attraction of the crypt are the frescoes. When possible the caretakers of the cathedral have installed lighting, so that you can adore without the need for using the flash on your camera, which you should never do.

Restaurants

Moma

Moma is actually a bar and restaurant, so you can stop their early for a drink before dinner, or wait until 7PM and dine there as well. They have a fairly good selection of food which may be considered cosmopolitan and some Piedmont dishes. Both of our dishes were very good and came with rather large portion size which is unusual of Italy.

References

References
↑1 The ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome.
Posted on

Turin, Italy – Early Return

Our Return Journey

Well after a somewhat long hiatus in the States, we returned to Turin at the beginning of January. As we have been getting older, we have noticed that we have to take things in stride and perhaps not rigidly plan so much, you never know what life can throw at you, especially grandchildren!

We flew Air France business class from RDU (Raleigh Durham, NC) to CDG (Charles de Gaulle, Paris, France). Not only do we find you get better bang for your points with Air France, the food is much better!

Though we are not a fan of CDG, it is better than flying in and out of JFK or some other domestic airport. We find they handle the entire passport entry and exit process a whole lot better than in the U.S. From Paris we took EasyJet to MXP (Milan, Italy), which is only a little over an hour. Though this carrier nickel and dimes you for every little thing, like some domestic carriers, it is still much cheaper than Air France’s HOP! flight to Turin.

The problem with going from Paris directly to Turin, Italy using air travel amounts to timing. The schedule for any flights leaving to Turin later leave you with either less than an hour to make your connection, which anyone knows who has traveled through CDG is almost an impossible task; or, waiting for one much later in the day. Then there is also the increased cost, which can be several hundred euros per person more expensive than flying into Milan. We therefore choose to fly into MXP and take the train back to Turin and saved almost $500.

Aside from the cold the city is more or less the way we have left it. Yes, there are public work projects in process; when we left via Po was more or less all dug up for city water and sewage line replacement. It appears they even replaced the tram lines that had to be removed, so it looks like the piazza and the street should be good for another fifty years.

Restaurants

Nuovo Zhen Bao Chinese Restaurant

One of our first places to eat was the chinese restaurant Nuovo Zhen Bao. There is no better way to break in the New Year than with a nice wine and a plate of chinese food.

As already noted in past entries they have excellent chinese food that would bring any chinese restaurant in the States to shame, and it is very economical, two people can have soup, salad, egg roll, a main and secondi dish with half liter of wine, small bottle of water and coffee and sambuca for around $35.

Il Buongusto

This week we found ourselves wanting a quick bite to eat and wandered our way over to Il Buongusto, which happens to be right around the corner, so to speak.

They always offer a good dish of Tajarin, either in Ragu (meat sauce) or Sugo (red sauce). It is a special version of pasta made mainly in the Piedmont region, I cannot say that we have anything quite like it in the States. Of course, they offer other options and have a full line of daily specials, but it was cold out and we needed something that would warm us up as well. Again, two people can eat here for lunch for right around $30.

Trattoria D’Agata

Today for lunch we went to Trattoria D’Agata, another staple on our list of restaurants to visit when in Turin. The menu reflects its Sicilian roots and the food tastes as though it adheres to that tradition, at least based on my experience on that beautiful island.

Sticking with tradition and shying away from their no doubt amazing pizze offerings, we stuck with a seafood theme for lunch. My dishes were a concentration in tuna, tuna polpetti and a main of tuna fish with red onion relish; while Patti preferred to go the route of Arancini with a Paccheri pasta with swordfish and eggplant.

Unlike the other two restaurants that were previosly commented on, this one is a bit more expensive, perhaps twice as much. However, having said that, we can say that the portions are on the larger side, so if you order too much, like we always seem to do, there are always plenty of left-overs. Our total for lunch, after our two hour stay, was €67 for two persons.

Porto di Savona

If you are looking for something a bit more unique or special to taste, then Porto di Savona would be a good pick. Here, most entries are made in house, including their pasta.

Located on the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, Porta di Savona has all of the Piedmont specials you might want for a nice dinner.

The Tajarin is made in-house using the age old forty egg recipe, making the pasta that unique color of yellow. That along with the Castelmagno cheese that is generously sprinkled on the top, you are looking at your body’s weekly cholesterol intake in one dish.

A bit more pricey than our usual picks, with the dishes seen above and a half liter of house red, the bill came to €62 for two people. But the food is absolutely delicious and worth every penny. Go early or book a reservation if you wish to go later, this restaurant gets full even during the early weekdays. Enjoy!

Posted on

Barolo & Barbaresco, Italy – Langhe Wine Tour

South of the river Tanaro is the wine region of Langhe and the two of the most well known Italian wine towns, Barolo and Barbaresco. For any wine enthusiast, it is an important stop on par with the fabled wineries of Napa Valley in California, the Saône river valley of Burgundy and the Gironde river valley of Bordeaux in France.

Langhe

For the Piedmont this region is by far the most important place for wine and truffles. Every year during the fall, people flock to this small region in Italy to enjoy the Italian harvest of truffles, both black and white, and naturally the wines that are produced in this region. Our recent summer trip concentrated on the wines and to enjoy a wine tour with other wine enthusiasts from Germany and Denmark. Though we did sample the black truffles while here, I can only say we are not fans. So wine it is..!

First, some background. The wine production and labeling in the area is controlled by a Control Denomination of Origin, or Denominazione di origine controllata, as it is in the rest of Italy. Structured after the French model and adopted by the European Union (EU), there are essentially four designations for Italian wines:

    • Denominazione di origine, or DO, this is rarely used
    • Indicazione geografica tipica, or IGT, this is used to designate wines typical of the region
    • Denominazione di origine controllata, or DOC, to indicate wines controlled and designated for the area
    • Denominazione di origine controllata e garantita, or DOCG, to indicate wines controlled and guaranteed to be from the area

The last two appellations are the most important, since they both assure a rigid and specific level of government oversight, as well as control over the labeling and the origins of the grapes in the wines of these designations.

It should also be noted that no IGT wines are produced in Piedmont or Valle D’Aosta.

DOC

Originally there were only the first three designations, DOC being the highest of them. However, the Italian food industry quickly decided that its designation was far too liberal and included other foodstuffs within the standard, so they requested a more rigorous standard, thus DOCG came into being for wine only and superseded DOC.

Much like DOCG, the DOC requirements demand that such wines use only certain grape varietals, are aged properly, have a certain alcohol content and be produced within certain areas or regions. Though the number of bottles that may be produced for a given wine is somewhat restrictive, the wines do not have the direct governmental wine panel oversight or trails of paper found in the higher classification.

Wines of this category are Barbera, Dolcetto and Nebbiolo, all of which are designated grape varieties and may be identified as such on a bottle marked as DOC.

DOCG

DOCG is by far the more rigorous designation and is controlled to such a degree, that the vintner is forced to follow rigid rules regarding the care and quality of the wines throughout its production, all the way down to the number of labels they will receive for their bottles for each wine.

Wines of this category are Barolo, Barbaresco and Muscato wines, of which Barolo and Barbaresco are made from Nebbiolo grapes and Muscato from the Muscato Bianco varietal.

Once the wine is produced, a batch of five (5) bottles are processed, corked, sealed and labeled for the authorities. All of which have the CDO label across the corks, signed, sealed and documented. Four of the bottles are taken for lab analysis and a wine panel judges them to ensure quality, clarity and that the wine produced meets the standard set for DOCG for that wine and region. One bottle is left with the produced. An example from the Grasso Brother vineyard in Barbaresco is shown below.

Our Wine Tour

For our wine tour we chose Alba Wine Tours. We tried to arrange a private tour, but they only offer group tours of up to six people. The cost for us for a one-day tour of Barolo and Barbaresco was 220€/person. Yes, a bit expensive, but unlike our experience in the United States at such venues, we tasted more than 25 wines. Moreover, our hosts were more than happy to provide us with second tastings or additional wine, if we enjoyed it and felt a certain wine was exceptional.

For each wine taste, they dispensed between 5-10dl, which is not bad considering a normal glass of wine is typically around 20dl. Typically in the States you barely get enough wine to get a nose on it, let alone taste it. Which probably shows that most wineries in the States are more interested in mitigating costs, then in pleasing theirs guests and trying to sell their product. This usually indicates to me that their products are typically not good enough to sell to begin with, let alone taste.

Unfortunately, as is true of most wine tastings, most of the wine was dumped. However, by the end of the day, it was very evident that we all had more than our fair share.

Barolo

Our first stop was in the small town of Barolo, a castle turned museum being its most prominent feature. There are of course numerous wine stores, most belonging to vineyards in the region, which have tastings and sell wine. We only stopped to see the town and to continue to our first stop, the Azienda Agricola Stra, also known as Stra Winemakers with Foresteria.

One of the most notable features of Barolo is its soil and topology. Not only is the soil a kind of hard-pack mixture of sand, clay and other components, its valleys are steep and almost treacherous.

Azienda Agricola Stra

Our stop at Agritourism Stra was very informative and our hosts, including our tour driver, Saverio Molinai, were very instructive about the wines and the process to make them. This included a tour of the wine producing facilities and their cellars, where the wines are stored and kept during the aging process.

The tasting included a flight of all the wines they produce, with one exception, the Dolcetto 2022 for 8€. The list below shows some of the wines offered and we essentially when from the top of the list to the bottom.

All during our tasting, our tour guide explained the various aspects of Barolo, its soil, the wines and the wine making process they used. He was actually very knowledgeable and when he was not sure about something that was particular to this producer, he would ask our host and she provided the necessary explanation.

Impressed with the quality of the wines, we purchased almost half a case of five bottles, two bottles of DOCG Stra La Volta 2019 Barolo and three bottles of DOC Stra Barbera D’Alba 2021. Of course, the Barolo is kind of young to drink right now and needs a handful of years to mellow. But the Barbera is young and fruity, with plenty of tannin, cherry and tobacco overtones and ready to drink now. It would be great with a nice steak or any other dish that could compete with its strength.

The last thing that we tried here that was not on the list was their Grappa. I actually forgot what they labeled it as and what the year was, but for a grappa is was very good. Most grappa can be a bit strong, even harsh, this one was actually a pleasure to drink, even Patti liked it, and she doesn’t even like grappa.

Barbaresco

Our stop in Barbaresco included two stops, one in town for a tasting at Produttori del Barbaresco S.A.C., or the commune wine store; the other at the Grasso Brothers to the south of Barbaresco in Giacoso. The town, Barbaresco, is unmistakable from a distance, due to its distinct tower which is so prominent on the horizon.

The land here is flatter and clearly more rolling than in Barolo. The valleys are not as steep and the vineyards appear to be able to employ more of their land to grapes. However, our guide told us that the primary reason some of the land still has trees was for truffle production in the area, its not necessarily unproductive, just used for another purpose.

Produttori del Barbaresco S.A.C.

The inside of this store is rather modern, almost sterile in a contemporary way. Here we tasted the DOC Langhe Nebbiolo 2021 and two DOCG Barbarescos, a 2018 and a 2019. The nebbiolo was rather dry with little fruit and unimpressive, but clear with a crisp ruby color and a distinct nose. The 2018 and 2019 Barbarescos were a bit disappointing. Although they were typical of a nebbiolo varietal for Barbaresco, there price was rather high. I felt I could find a similar one that was less expensive in Turin.

The last thing we tried was their Grappa. It was typical for grappa, lots of alcohol and perhaps a bit harsh. So this stop was a bit disappointing, but we got to see that town.

We left here without purchasing anything.

Azienda Agricola Grasso Fratelli

The Grasso Fratelli, or Grasso Brothers, have a rather unassuming winery. From the outside the construction is typical for Piedmont and it is adorned with signs of the wines they make, like Barbaresco, Bricco Spessa, Barbera, etc. One could call it a typical farm.

The building houses two large rooms for tasting and the atmosphere is rather laid back. The wines for the tasting contained Chardonnays, Dolcettos, Barberas, Nebbiolos, a Moscato, a Rosato and a wine called Vino rosso Trej. All of these wines were very good, including the Chardonnays which I thought were very clean and not overly oaked, like most complain about in the United States.

There were however no Barbarescos on the list to taste, so we were all a bit taken aback. Once we mentioned this, our host and driver Saverio went to retrieve a few bottles for us to try

There was an immediate reaction and the brothers appeared, looking a bit hesitant. However, Saverio convinced them that if they don’t let people try the wines, they won’t sell them.

The brothers have never marries and still work on the farm, though some of the work is done by the cooperative. They have been working their plot of land for over sixty years. The eldest, Alfredo, is eighty-two (82) years old this year and the other brother, Luigi, about ten years his junior. The two brothers came to the table and talked with our guide, while we tried the wine.

The best bottle was their DOCG Giacosa Spessa Barbaresco 2017. This is an amazingly good wine, full of cherry and other fruity undertones along with plenty of alcohol for longevity, coupled with an amazing nose and a rich red color typical for a nebbiolo, and best of all, ready to drink now. The vines that it is produced from are of the oldest in the vineyard, being planted by Alfredo when he was only twenty years old. This means that the roots of these vines have driven over a meter deep into the ground, allowing them to access different soils and salts. It is so good, I had to purchase two bottles. Unfortunately, I was not able to carry more, so I had to keep to that limit. A planning mistake I will not make again in the future.

Restaurants

We visited one restaurant for lunch, which we had to inform the tour operator in advance of how much we wanted to spend. At the time, the limits were 30€/person, 50€/person and 70€/person, for which the unnamed restaurant would provide a basic lunch with appetizer and primi, or a heavier lunch with appetizer, primi and secondi, or a culinary delight of the same, but made personally by the chef. We both thought it was overpriced. So we went off-menu and ordered from the daily specials and only what we wanted.

Locanda La Gemella

For lunch we stopped at Locanda la Gamella on the edge of town. A very nice, I would say upscale restaurant with a very dynamic menu. They also have daily and chef’s specials, so there seems to be something for everyone.

We went a la carte with the special Tajarin al ragu, some still water and a glass of wine. Our total bill came to 51€ total for the both of us, which wasn’t too bad, but still a bit pricey. Unfortunately, neither myself nor my wife took any photographs of our dishes or the place, though they were kind of normal and not very special for the Piedmont.

Posted on

Alba, Italy – Piedmont’s Wine Center

Our trip started at Turin’s Porta Susa train station. For a little over 12€/person, you can purchase a one-way commuter ticket on Piedmont’s Sfm4 line to Alba, which takes about an hour and twenty minutes to get there, going through Bra first, which can also be a stop on your itinerary.

Alba

Anyone serious about wine or truffles has to visit Alba, Italy. Located an hour or so south of Turin, it is a bustling center for both, especially in the Fall when both of these products are harvested. Our whole intent on visiting the town was a wine tour we had booked for Barolo and Barbaresco (covered in my next post), but we decided to grab a hotel and enjoy an extra day just to explore.

The town is rather self contained and almost in the shape of a loose hexagon, owing to its ancient Roman ancestry as a fortification no doubt. There are several places where these ancient ruins are evident and demonstrate how the town itself is constructed upon them, using them as a foundation. There are also underground caverns and tunnels that can be explored, but arrangements have to be made ahead of time in order to visit them.

The town has numerous towers and it was once known as the town with a hundred towers. These were most likely constructed as lookouts and were defensive in nature.

There are also numerous churches, as is true of most Italian towns and cities. The cathedral, or Duomo, occupies a central place near the town’s marketplace and between the Piazza Duomo and Piazza Rossetti. The interior is typical for its size and function.

Other churches, including the Church of the Maddalena, actually have more interesting and elaborate interiors. One, the Church of Saint John the Baptist, looks more like a provincial library than a church inside.

Hotel Dellatorre

A three star hotel, which is actually more of a converted Bed-n-Breakfast, than a real hotel. It is more like a cafe/bar that has added rooms and tries to call itself a hotel. All the rooms are separate and there is no main structure with hallways, they all have external doors.

The owner runs a cafe or bar as well, and although we stayed here for one night, we did not use her cafe for breakfast, since we had learned that the beverages were a bit over-priced. Again, we are not sure whether that is in fact the case, but we did notice that there was no menu or price list anywhere. While we travel we have a general rule that if the prices are not listed, we tend to avoid the establishment.

The room was spacious enough, quiet and comfortable for the most part. The bed was very hard, so if you prefer that kind of mattress firmness, this place might be for you.

Restaurants

Conterosso

For lunch we ate at Conterosso and chose two of the local dishes. Patti had the Agnolotti with truffles and I had the veal with a barolo wine sauce, both were excellent dishes.

Gusto Madre

A contemporary dining place that makes excellent pizza. Located in Piazza Michele Ferrero, it is just on the edge of town.

Since Patti was not feeling well, I ate alone and just ordered a simple Pizza Margherita which was drizzled with a pesto, it was actually quite good.

Map of the City

Below is a map of the city.

Posted on

Turin, Italy – Accorsi Ometto Museum

Museo Accorsi Ometto

In Turin, on via Po and not far from Piazza Vittorio Veneto, is the obscure and easily missed Museo Accorsi Ometto, or the Accorsi Ometto Museum. Actually, when we first arrived in 2019 we had wanted to go, but then it closed suddenly due to Covid. It has now reopened, probably along with surge in tourists we have seen in Turin.

The Entrance and Ticket Office

Though not entirely nondescript, the museum might be easy to walk passed if you are not paying attention. Though now they have several placards outside indicating that something interesting might be going on inside.

The Museum

The museum actually serves a dual purpose, the building is itself an attraction and the house loaned exhibits from time to time. Therefore, for your entrance fee, you actually get two museums in one.

The museum’s current attraction are Works from Venice from the eighteenth century and is called the Museum of Decorative Art. They actually have a very good online introduction and additional information about tickets. We found it easy enough just to walk in.

One thing we did find, the QR codes on most of the exhibits did not work. At least using my phone scanner, I was unable to load anything, so you may have to tour the exhibits without this luxury, though we found many exhibits were already translated.

The exhibit begins with many works of Venetian art, without much in the rooms themselves to see. However, in the latter rooms, both the works of art and the rooms themselves are explained in detail and exhibit some of the finer Piedmont style furnishings and cabinetry.

Finally, there are a few rooms with smaller artifacts in exhibits or porcelain and other expensive materials. Most of these appear to have been decorative, but some actually served useful purposes.

That concludes our visit to one of the smaller museums in Turin. In many ways we found it better designed than some of the larger museums we have been to in the area. The entrance fee is around 12€/person and discounts are available for older adults and children. Here are some last pieces and rooms of note, enjoy!

 

Posted on

Turin, Italy – Sunday Ride from Turin to Trofarello

Posted on

Verbania, Italy – Pallanza and Villa Taranto

Across Lake Maggiore from Stresa lies Verbania and the town of Pallanza. This is another destination one may reach by purchasing a ferry ticket with the Lake Maggiore Ferry transportation system.

Verbania

Since we had an extra day, we took a day trip there to discover if Pallanza had anything to offer and to visit the Gardens of Villa Taranto.

Pallanza

There is not much to see here, though during our visit there was a lot of lake side construction, which not only blocked our view of things but made for a rather noisy visit. Hence, we did not stop here to eat anything.

The town is actually quite simple and the only things there that stand out are the Church of Saint Leonard and its bell tower, and a few World War I memorials.

The water show off the beach appeared a bit to much for a destination offering so little, but we took a photograph of it anyway.

After a quick tour of Pallanza, we attempted to walk to the Villa Taranto gardens. After about forty minutes of frustration with a well known map application, we decided to turn around and take the ferry instead, which has service to the gardens.

Regardless what the phone application tries to tell you, you may not enter the gardens from any side other than from where the boat launch is, so do not try unless you want to walk on a state road or you want to waste a lot of your time trying. The entire garden is surrounded by immense walls or fences and all of the entry points are locked. I walked all the way up to the Oratory of Saint Remigio just to make sure.

Villa Taranto

Villa Taranto is the ferry stop right after Pallanza and before Intra. It is about a ten to fifteen minute ride from Pallanza, so we purchased a round trip ticket from Pallanza to Villa Taranto to make up the difference with our ticket from Stresa to Pallanza, since we would be taking the ferry directly back once we finished the gardens.

The Gardens

The gardens of Villa Taranto are very well kept and marked. Each section is dedicated to some specific type of flora or theme. The walkways are well maintained such that you will have no issues ascending the hill that the gardens are planted on.

Restaurants

In Villa Taranto we ate at the bistro within the park, having no desire after a long walk through the gardens of venturing any further out.

Cafè & Bistrot

Nothing much to rave about here, it is just a simple bistro and cafe. In one section you may sit and enjoy a drink, in the other you may order lunch or whatever they are serving at the time, if they are open. For lunch, we just had a simple salad with tomatoes and Tropea onions and olive oil, along with some white wine on the side, which was very dry and very good.

Aside from the failed attempt to walk to Villa Taranto Gardens, the ferry and the gardens, saved what could have been a sweaty miserable afternoon looking at flowers. So after eating, we thoroughly enjoyed our boat trip back to Stresa and would commend others not to stop in Pallanza, but go straight to the gardens and perhaps even Intra later, if the traveling bug moves you so.

Posted on

Stresa, Italy – Borromeo Islands

Borromeo Islands

Of the five Borromeo islands that make up that small group in Lake Maggiore, three have ferry service to them, one is uninhabitable, but has a beach you can visit, and the other, not far off the coast near Pallanza, is small and not frequented by visitors.

One should note, at least for our CMA ferry service, the islands are visited in an order, as presented below. Altering this order is impossible, if not very difficult, so plan accordingly.

Isola Bella

Isola Bella is probably the most frequented of the three. It has an ostensibly renowned italianate garden, which you have to purchase tickets for of course, but they do include access to the palazzo and the other gardens on Isola Madre.

The Palazzo

The entrance to the gardens is via the palazzo, you cannot just walk into them. We walked through the old fishing town thinking there were multiple entrances to the gardens, there are not. There is only one, through the palazzo and after the ticket counter.

A walk-through of the palazzo is provided in the below slideshow.

The gardens are accessed from the palazzo through what is called Diana’s Atrium, a small sub-garden with stairways to the garden. There is not much to see here and it is probably meant more as a meeting place, than any important adjunct to the gardens, so we ascended to the gardens almost immediately.

The Gardens

The gardens do contain some interesting species, especially the old Camphor tree that was planted there in 1819 by Vitaliano IX Borromeo. It also houses a peacock and peahen, which will provide the necessary background noise in the gardens for any videos you wish to make.

Apparently the pride of the gardens is the Massimo Theater. A rather odd assemblage of opulent statues and finished by Carlo IV, it probably points to the decedent past these properties enjoyed.

Isola dei Pescatori

Even though its proper name of Isola Superiore belies its size, Isola dei Pescatori is the smallest of the three islands. Its main attraction is the small fishing town that stretches from three quarters of its shoreline.

There is only enough room here for restaurants, cafes, shops, boat docks and the odd park on the northwest side of the island. So, casually walking its streets and narrow alleyways is, more or less, the only thing to do here, aside from eating of course.

Isola Madre

Isola Madre is the largest of the three and for the most part is an island with a garden and palazzo on it. The garden is entered first, after turning right off the boat and taking the a long garden path walk around a third of the island.

Once you pass the entrance, where a person will scan your tickets, the garden begins.

The Garden

I found this garden quieter, more casual and more enjoyable overall. It has a few different sections, including a jungle environment which is very wet and grows ferns and other jungle type plants.

The Palazzo

Immediately outside the entrance to the palazzo is a huge Cashmir Cypress tree, that was once blown over by a tornado on the island and later saved. It is indeed a magnificent specimen.

The interior of the palazzo is very interesting and a bit disturbing as well. It contains a lot of desiderata, so the displays can often appear disjointed and not themed well. However, taken as the idiosyncrasies of its creators and owners, it is perhaps more understandable. I found it enjoyable though confused at times, in its own way.

We thoroughly enjoyed our day visiting all three islands. Though it is a lot to see in one day, it took us about five hours, it is manageable. It might be more difficult if it is hot outside, since all of the gardens are outside and the palazzos do not appears to have any air-conditioning in them. However, there are plenty of places to buy water on each of the islands, so staying hydrated should not be an issue.

Restaurants

Though there are restaurants and cafes on all the islands, we ate on the island of Pescatori because it was in the middle of our day boat trip to all of the islands, and at around half past one, it broke the trip up just about right.

Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcodero

The Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcodero is on the small island of Pescatori. In fact, most of the good restaurants of the three islands are probably here. It has a wide variety of Italian dishes that one can choose from the menu. For lunch, we kept it simple, since we were both not feeling one hundred percent and already had a substantial breakfast at the hotel.

Posted on

Stresa, Italy – Quiet Lake Retreat

Stresa

Stresa is a small lake-side tourist attraction on Lake Maggiore, Italy. It is frequented by Italians, Brits, French, Germans, Asians and the odd American. It is only a tiny strip of about a few kilometers, where there are a dozen or so hotels. It is not very busy, unlike the Mediterranean coast, so it is very laid back and relaxing – a quiet retreat.

View from hotel room – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy

The area is know for its three Borromean islands, Isola Bella, Isola dei Pescatori (also known as Isola Superiore) and Isola Madre. More on these later.

The town is rather simple, but it has ample restaurants and other types of shopping. There is also an amazing AgriGelateria at Corso Umberto I, which has excellent gelato with all natural and authentic flavors, a must stop, especially when it is really hot outside.

Lungolago di Stresa

Stresa also has a wonderful boardwalk area stretching from Stresa along the lake front and becoming the Passeggiata del lago di Carciano, which is directly across from Isola Bella. It’s a bit over a kilometer and will take about a quarter to half of an hour to walk, depending on your pace.

Hotel Regina Palace

In its heyday, this four star hotel must have been a place to see and enjoy. However, aside from its opulent structure, this hotel is a solid three-star hotel than what it’s advertised.

The issues we had while here for our short five day star were as follows:

    • Our room was not vacuumed for our entire stay.
    • There was no Hair Conditioner nor Body Lotion in the bathroom.
    • The plumbing is old, requires repairs and updating, some things leak continuously.
    • The walls in the rooms are paper-thin and the painting is dated.
    • Room service does not fill everything you would expect, e.g. tissues.
    • In the dining area – they do not replace things unless you request and even then you might not get it, e.g. syrup for your pancakes.
    • In the dining area – you may have to seat yourself, the concierge is not very attentive. I know it’s Italy, but most of the time half of the staff is standing around doing nothing.

The hotel is in a very strategic position along the coast, it is both very close to the islands and the town, this was one of the reasons we selected it. So, if you visit this hotel, be aware of the aforementioned issues and go in with your eyes wide shut.