Our trip started at Turin’s Porta Susa train station. For a little over 12€/person, you can purchase a one-way commuter ticket on Piedmont’s Sfm4 line to Alba, which takes about an hour and twenty minutes to get there, going through Bra first, which can also be a stop on your itinerary.
Porta Susa Terminal – Turin, Italy
Porta Susa Terminal – Turin, Italy
Alba
Alba train station – Alba, Italy
Anyone serious about wine or truffles has to visit Alba, Italy. Located an hour or so south of Turin, it is a bustling center for both, especially in the Fall when both of these products are harvested. Our whole intent on visiting the town was a wine tour we had booked for Barolo and Barbaresco (covered in my next post), but we decided to grab a hotel and enjoy an extra day just to explore.
Valerio Berruti sculptor – Alba, Italy
Piazza Michele Ferrero – Alba, Italy
Corso Michele Coppino – Alba, Italy
Porticos in Alba – Alba, Italy
The streets of Alba are well kept – Alba, Italy
Hotel Casa Della Torre – Alba, Italy
Piazza Risorgimento – Alba, Italy
Giorgio Busca Theater – Alba, Italy
The town is rather self contained and almost in the shape of a loose hexagon, owing to its ancient Roman ancestry as a fortification no doubt. There are several places where these ancient ruins are evident and demonstrate how the town itself is constructed upon them, using them as a foundation. There are also underground caverns and tunnels that can be explored, but arrangements have to be made ahead of time in order to visit them.
Roman Theater and Palazzo Marro remains – Alba, Italy
Roman Theater and Palazzo Marro remains – Alba, Italy
The town has numerous towers and it was once known as the town with a hundred towers. These were most likely constructed as lookouts and were defensive in nature.
The towers of Alba – Alba, Italy
Three towers of Alba – Alba, Italy
Piazza Paertinace – Alba, Italy
Palazzo Communale and Cathedral of San Lorenzo – Alba, Italy
Another bell tower – Alba, Italy
There are also numerous churches, as is true of most Italian towns and cities. The cathedral, or Duomo, occupies a central place near the town’s marketplace and between the Piazza Duomo and Piazza Rossetti. The interior is typical for its size and function.
Cathedral of San Lorenzo – Alba, Italy
Other churches, including the Church of the Maddalena, actually have more interesting and elaborate interiors. One, the Church of Saint John the Baptist, looks more like a provincial library than a church inside.
Chiesa della Maddalena, via Vincenzo Gioberti – Alba, Italy
Chiesa della Maddalena – Alba, Italy
Chiesa della Maddalena – Alba, Italy
Chiesa della Maddalena – Alba, Italy
Hotel Dellatorre
A three star hotel, which is actually more of a converted Bed-n-Breakfast, than a real hotel. It is more like a cafe/bar that has added rooms and tries to call itself a hotel. All the rooms are separate and there is no main structure with hallways, they all have external doors.
Hotel Casa Della Torre – Alba, Italy
Hotel Casa Della Torre – Alba, Italy
The owner runs a cafe or bar as well, and although we stayed here for one night, we did not use her cafe for breakfast, since we had learned that the beverages were a bit over-priced. Again, we are not sure whether that is in fact the case, but we did notice that there was no menu or price list anywhere. While we travel we have a general rule that if the prices are not listed, we tend to avoid the establishment.
Hotel Casa Della Torre – Alba, Italy
Hotel Casa Della Torre – Alba, Italy
The room was spacious enough, quiet and comfortable for the most part. The bed was very hard, so if you prefer that kind of mattress firmness, this place might be for you.
Restaurants
Conterosso
For lunch we ate at Conterosso and chose two of the local dishes. Patti had the Agnolotti with truffles and I had the veal with a barolo wine sauce, both were excellent dishes.
Conterosso – Alba, Italy
Caprese salad – Conterosso – Alba, Italy
Agnolotti with black truffles – Conterosso – Alba, Italy
Veal in Barolo sauce with potatoes – Conterosso – Alba, Italy
Gusto Madre
A contemporary dining place that makes excellent pizza. Located in Piazza Michele Ferrero, it is just on the edge of town.
Gusto Madre – Alba, Italy
Since Patti was not feeling well, I ate alone and just ordered a simple Pizza Margherita which was drizzled with a pesto, it was actually quite good.
In Turin, on via Po and not far from Piazza Vittorio Veneto, is the obscure and easily missed Museo Accorsi Ometto, or the Accorsi Ometto Museum. Actually, when we first arrived in 2019 we had wanted to go, but then it closed suddenly due to Covid. It has now reopened, probably along with surge in tourists we have seen in Turin.
Tickets For Two – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
The Entrance and Ticket Office
Though not entirely nondescript, the museum might be easy to walk passed if you are not paying attention. Though now they have several placards outside indicating that something interesting might be going on inside.
via Po Entrance – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Courtyard – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Courtyard and Mole in the distance – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Portico wall – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Entrance and ticket office – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Portico ceiling – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
The Museum
The museum actually serves a dual purpose, the building is itself an attraction and the house loaned exhibits from time to time. Therefore, for your entrance fee, you actually get two museums in one.
Entrance and stairwell – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
First floor entrance – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
The museum’s current attraction are Works from Venice from the eighteenth century and is called the Museum of Decorative Art. They actually have a very good online introduction and additional information about tickets. We found it easy enough just to walk in.
First room – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Large paintings – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Giovanni Bonazza, The adoration of the Magi, 1729 – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Ornate library and office space – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Artwork in pencil and ink – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Artwork of Venice – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
One thing we did find, the QR codes on most of the exhibits did not work. At least using my phone scanner, I was unable to load anything, so you may have to tour the exhibits without this luxury, though we found many exhibits were already translated.
Antonio Vivaldi from Bologna – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Gabriele Bella, Venetian public carnival – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Michele Marieschi, Piazza San Marco – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Michele Marieschi, Rialto bridge in Venice – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Miessen clock and other ornate furniture, 1760s – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Ships in harbor, Venice – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
The exhibit begins with many works of Venetian art, without much in the rooms themselves to see. However, in the latter rooms, both the works of art and the rooms themselves are explained in detail and exhibit some of the finer Piedmont style furnishings and cabinetry.
First Cignaroli room, Artwork of Giuseppe Zais, 1760 – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Venetian bedroom, 1760s – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Pietro Accorsi’s bedroom, mid 18th century – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Louis XV Drawing room – Giovanni Bonazza, Busts of Bacco, Arianna, Eraclito and Democrito, 1710 – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Bandera bedroom – Piedmont embroidery using a honeycomb stitch in polychrome wool and cotton – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Interesting model or diorama – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Ornate work in porcelain – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Francesco Bertos, Allegory of the Aria of the four seasons, marble – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Piffetti Salon, late Piedmont Baroque style and masterpieces – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Piffetti Salon, late Piedmont Baroque style and masterpieces – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Jacques Birckle desk – Piffetti Salon, late Piedmont Baroque style and masterpieces – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Louis XVI Salon – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Louis XVI Salon – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Giuseppe Monlinari, Mandolins, 1759 and 1780 – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Erard forte-piano, Music room – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
The Buffet room without lighting, Tavole Imbandite – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
The Buffet room with lighting, Tavole Imbandite – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Chinese porcelain figurines, Buffet room – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Finally, there are a few rooms with smaller artifacts in exhibits or porcelain and other expensive materials. Most of these appear to have been decorative, but some actually served useful purposes.
Porcelain figurine collection – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Fine china collection – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Porcelain figurine collection – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Ornate porcelain and other collections – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Interesting candle lit Venetian scene painted on china – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Ornate porcelain and other collections – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
That concludes our visit to one of the smaller museums in Turin. In many ways we found it better designed than some of the larger museums we have been to in the area. The entrance fee is around 12€/person and discounts are available for older adults and children. Here are some last pieces and rooms of note, enjoy!
Religious wall hangings – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
A Child’s bureau, “Mazzarin”, Piedmontese cabinet-maker, 1705 – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Side gallery with religious artifacts – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Kitchen with copper molds and ware – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Kitchen with copper molds and ware – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Venetian Dress – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Across Lake Maggiore from Stresa lies Verbania and the town of Pallanza. This is another destination one may reach by purchasing a ferry ticket with the Lake Maggiore Ferry transportation system.
Boat launch – Stresa, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Stresa to Pallanza – Tickets For Two – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Verbania
Since we had an extra day, we took a day trip there to discover if Pallanza had anything to offer and to visit the Gardens of Villa Taranto.
Looking toward Stresa – Lake Maggiore, Italy
Looking toward Pallanza – Lake Maggiore, Italy
Looking toward the tip of Verbania – Lake Maggiore, Italy
Pallanza – Lake Maggiore, Italy
Looking toward Bevano – Lake Maggiore, Italy
Pallanza dock – Lake Maggiore, Italy
Pallanza
There is not much to see here, though during our visit there was a lot of lake side construction, which not only blocked our view of things but made for a rather noisy visit. Hence, we did not stop here to eat anything.
Our ferry – Pallanza, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The town is actually quite simple and the only things there that stand out are the Church of Saint Leonard and its bell tower, and a few World War I memorials.
War memorial – Pallanza, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Soldiers that died in WWI from the town – Pallanza, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Church tower – Pallanza, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Church of Saint Leonard – Pallanza, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The water show off the beach appeared a bit to much for a destination offering so little, but we took a photograph of it anyway.
The town’s welcome float – Pallanza, Lake Maggiore, Italy
After a quick tour of Pallanza, we attempted to walk to the Villa Taranto gardens. After about forty minutes of frustration with a well known map application, we decided to turn around and take the ferry instead, which has service to the gardens.
The gardens are completely walled off – Remigio – Pallanza, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Italians and their walls – Remigio – Pallanza, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Regardless what the phone application tries to tell you, you may not enter the gardens from any side other than from where the boat launch is, so do not try unless you want to walk on a state road or you want to waste a lot of your time trying. The entire garden is surrounded by immense walls or fences and all of the entry points are locked. I walked all the way up to the Oratory of Saint Remigio just to make sure.
Oratory of Saint Remigio – Pallanza, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Villa Taranto
Villa Taranto is the ferry stop right after Pallanza and before Intra. It is about a ten to fifteen minute ride from Pallanza, so we purchased a round trip ticket from Pallanza to Villa Taranto to make up the difference with our ticket from Stresa to Pallanza, since we would be taking the ferry directly back once we finished the gardens.
Villa Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Tickets For Two – Villa Taranto Botanical Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The Gardens
The gardens of Villa Taranto are very well kept and marked. Each section is dedicated to some specific type of flora or theme. The walkways are well maintained such that you will have no issues ascending the hill that the gardens are planted on.
Villa Taranto, or the Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Hydrangea – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Fountain in gardens – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Garden – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The flora – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Tropical lillypads in greenhouse – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Small chapel – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The chapel – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Itea ilicifolia or Chinese Sweet Spire – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Small bridge – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Grand lawn, fountain and out building – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
More flora – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Beautiful flowers – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
More flowers – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Flowers near pond – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Beautiful landscaping – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Monument to garden creator – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Architectural garden – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Architectural garden – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Chamaecyparis lawsoniana or Lawson Cypress – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Architectural garden – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Architectural garden – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Erica or Heather – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
A small well – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Large conifers – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Restaurants
In Villa Taranto we ate at the bistro within the park, having no desire after a long walk through the gardens of venturing any further out.
Cafè & Bistrot
Nothing much to rave about here, it is just a simple bistro and cafe. In one section you may sit and enjoy a drink, in the other you may order lunch or whatever they are serving at the time, if they are open. For lunch, we just had a simple salad with tomatoes and Tropea onions and olive oil, along with some white wine on the side, which was very dry and very good.
Villa Sparina, Gavi di Gavi – Cafè & Bistrot – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Villa Sparina, Gavi di Gavi – Cafè & Bistrot – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Aside from the failed attempt to walk to Villa Taranto Gardens, the ferry and the gardens, saved what could have been a sweaty miserable afternoon looking at flowers. So after eating, we thoroughly enjoyed our boat trip back to Stresa and would commend others not to stop in Pallanza, but go straight to the gardens and perhaps even Intra later, if the traveling bug moves you so.
To the boats – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Of the five Borromeo islands that make up that small group in Lake Maggiore, three have ferry service to them, one is uninhabitable, but has a beach you can visit, and the other, not far off the coast near Pallanza, is small and not frequented by visitors.
CMA Ship Ticket – Tickets For Two – Three Island Tour – Stresa, Italy
CMA Boat Service to the islands – Stresa, Italy
One should note, at least for our CMA ferry service, the islands are visited in an order, as presented below. Altering this order is impossible, if not very difficult, so plan accordingly.
Isola Bella
Isola Bella is probably the most frequented of the three. It has an ostensibly renowned italianate garden, which you have to purchase tickets for of course, but they do include access to the palazzo and the other gardens on Isola Madre.
Isola Bella and Madre Garden tickets – Tickets For Two – Stresa, Italy
Isola Madre from Isola Bella – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The Palazzo
The entrance to the gardens is via the palazzo, you cannot just walk into them. We walked through the old fishing town thinking there were multiple entrances to the gardens, there are not. There is only one, through the palazzo and after the ticket counter.
Palazzo Borromea – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Entrance to the palazzo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
A walk-through of the palazzo is provided in the below slideshow.
Staircase to Salone Nuovo – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Staircase to Salone Nuovo – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Old Marble for staircase – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Sala del Trono and Sala della Regina – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Puppets and Marionettes – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Puppets and Marionettes – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Odd rock style rooms – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Odd rock style rooms – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Odd rock style rooms – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Stone spiral stairway – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Stone spiral stairway – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Hallway storing other artifacts – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Galleria degli Arazzi – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Galleria degli Arazzi – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Galleria degli Arazzi – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The gardens are accessed from the palazzo through what is called Diana’s Atrium, a small sub-garden with stairways to the garden. There is not much to see here and it is probably meant more as a meeting place, than any important adjunct to the gardens, so we ascended to the gardens almost immediately.
To the gardens – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The Gardens
The gardens do contain some interesting species, especially the old Camphor tree that was planted there in 1819 by Vitaliano IX Borromeo. It also houses a peacock and peahen, which will provide the necessary background noise in the gardens for any videos you wish to make.
Camphor Tree on Camphor Terrace – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Stairs to another level – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Peacock and Peahen – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Stresa – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Gardino d’Amore – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Gardens – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The Gardens – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Apparently the pride of the gardens is the Massimo Theater. A rather odd assemblage of opulent statues and finished by Carlo IV, it probably points to the decedent past these properties enjoyed.
Even though its proper name of Isola Superiore belies its size, Isola dei Pescatori is the smallest of the three islands. Its main attraction is the small fishing town that stretches from three quarters of its shoreline.
Small town streets – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Narrow alleys – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Jolly Roger – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Hydrangea – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
There is only enough room here for restaurants, cafes, shops, boat docks and the odd park on the northwest side of the island. So, casually walking its streets and narrow alleyways is, more or less, the only thing to do here, aside from eating of course.
Rocky beach on the island – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Park at the end of island – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Isola Madre
Isola Madre is the largest of the three and for the most part is an island with a garden and palazzo on it. The garden is entered first, after turning right off the boat and taking the a long garden path walk around a third of the island.
Map – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Entrance to gardens – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Entrance to gardens – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Old Palm tree – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Coast – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Patti in gardens – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
View of Pallanza and Laveno – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Pallanza – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Once you pass the entrance, where a person will scan your tickets, the garden begins.
Entrance statue – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Entrance statue – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The Garden
I found this garden quieter, more casual and more enjoyable overall. It has a few different sections, including a jungle environment which is very wet and grows ferns and other jungle type plants.
Looking back at Stresa – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Patti on garden steps – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Garden walkway – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Eucalyptus trees – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Flowers – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
More flowers and Dark Throat Golden Pheasant – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Dark Throat Golden Pheasant – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
More flowers – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
More flowers – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
More flowers – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Hydrangea – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Ferns in the wet part of the gardens – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
More ferns – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Old boat or gondola dock – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Pallanza – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
An old Taxodium Distichum or swamp cypress – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Leaves of the swamp cypress – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
A rather poor specimen of Sequoiadendron Giganteum, labeled Wellingtonia Gigantea, or the giant sequoia – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Pathway and Bamboo grove – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Walkway towards the palazzo – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The Palazzo
Immediately outside the entrance to the palazzo is a huge Cashmir Cypress tree, that was once blown over by a tornado on the island and later saved. It is indeed a magnificent specimen.
The Cashmir Cypress – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The interior of the palazzo is very interesting and a bit disturbing as well. It contains a lot of desiderata, so the displays can often appear disjointed and not themed well. However, taken as the idiosyncrasies of its creators and owners, it is perhaps more understandable. I found it enjoyable though confused at times, in its own way.
Antonio Albertini, Biuditta con la Testa di Oloferne – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Exhibit – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Statue – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Cypress tree from balcony – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Main room – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Fireplace – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Hallway crowded with extra furniture – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Chapel and outside garden – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Ivory and Ebony tabletop – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Room with oddities – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Room with oddities – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Room with oddities – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Bedroom – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Bedroom for baby and mother – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Cradle – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Hallway – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Elaborate mannequins with Marionette stage – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Marionette stage – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Marionettes and small puppets – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Marionettes on stage – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Odd women’s room – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Dark hallway filled with unused furniture – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Interesting painting – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Study – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Study – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Sitting room – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Murano glass chandelier – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Another Murano glass chandelier – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Old chest – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The Chapel inside – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Outside and exit to boats – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
We thoroughly enjoyed our day visiting all three islands. Though it is a lot to see in one day, it took us about five hours, it is manageable. It might be more difficult if it is hot outside, since all of the gardens are outside and the palazzos do not appears to have any air-conditioning in them. However, there are plenty of places to buy water on each of the islands, so staying hydrated should not be an issue.
Patti by Small pond – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Our CMA ferry – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Leaving the island – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The island from our ferry – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Restaurants
Though there are restaurants and cafes on all the islands, we ate on the island of Pescatori because it was in the middle of our day boat trip to all of the islands, and at around half past one, it broke the trip up just about right.
Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcodero
The Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcodero is on the small island of Pescatori. In fact, most of the good restaurants of the three islands are probably here. It has a wide variety of Italian dishes that one can choose from the menu. For lunch, we kept it simple, since we were both not feeling one hundred percent and already had a substantial breakfast at the hotel.
From the boat – Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcadero – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcadero – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Spaghetti with tomatoes and lentils – Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcadero – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Spaghetti in simple tomato sauce – Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcadero – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Stresa is a small lake-side tourist attraction on Lake Maggiore, Italy. It is frequented by Italians, Brits, French, Germans, Asians and the odd American. It is only a tiny strip of about a few kilometers, where there are a dozen or so hotels. It is not very busy, unlike the Mediterranean coast, so it is very laid back and relaxing – a quiet retreat.
View from hotel room – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
The town is rather simple, but it has ample restaurants and other types of shopping. There is also an amazing AgriGelateria at Corso Umberto I, which has excellent gelato with all natural and authentic flavors, a must stop, especially when it is really hot outside.
Downtown Stresa – Stresa, Italy
Side street – Stresa, Italy
Pedestrian way – Stresa, Italy
Main Piazza – Stresa, Italy
Another side street – Stresa, Italy
Lake Maggiore – Stresa, Italy
Lake Maggiore – Stresa, Italy
Tourist Gate of Stresa – Stresa, Italy
Lungolago di Stresa
Stresa also has a wonderful boardwalk area stretching from Stresa along the lake front and becoming the Passeggiata del lago di Carciano, which is directly across from Isola Bella. It’s a bit over a kilometer and will take about a quarter to half of an hour to walk, depending on your pace.
Beach – Stresa, Italy
Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy
Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy
Isola Bella – Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy
Isola Bella – Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy
Lake Maggiore and Isola Bella, Isola Pescatori – Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy
Lake Maggiore – Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy
Isola Bella – Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy
Isola Bella – Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy
Hotel Regina Palace
In its heyday, this four star hotel must have been a place to see and enjoy. However, aside from its opulent structure, this hotel is a solid three-star hotel than what it’s advertised.
Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
The issues we had while here for our short five day star were as follows:
Our room was not vacuumed for our entire stay.
There was no Hair Conditioner nor Body Lotion in the bathroom.
The plumbing is old, requires repairs and updating, some things leak continuously.
The walls in the rooms are paper-thin and the painting is dated.
Room service does not fill everything you would expect, e.g. tissues.
In the dining area – they do not replace things unless you request and even then you might not get it, e.g. syrup for your pancakes.
In the dining area – you may have to seat yourself, the concierge is not very attentive. I know it’s Italy, but most of the time half of the staff is standing around doing nothing.
The hotel is in a very strategic position along the coast, it is both very close to the islands and the town, this was one of the reasons we selected it. So, if you visit this hotel, be aware of the aforementioned issues and go in with your eyes wide shut.
Car Entrance – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
Main Lobby – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
Main Lobby – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
Main Lobby – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
Bar – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
View of the three islands – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
View of Leveno and Monte Crocetta – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
Perhaps one of the best times to visit Turin is in the spring. The wind is still blowing from the north, the rivers are full, the trees are in bloom and the swallows and swifts are returning from their long winter stay in Africa. We live close to the river and found you do not need insecticide here, just a healthy population of these birds and you will rarely be bitten.
Springtime – River Po – Turin, Italy
A great time to walk the city and visit its many restaurants and cafes as well as the river Po and Valentino Park. On weekends and holidays there is always activity on the river.
Restaurants
For my readers, some secrets that will help you beat the tourist lines in Turin at the other places and make your stomach very happy.
Il Buongusto
One of our new favorites and right around the corner from our apartment at via Alfonso Bonafous is the local secret, Il Buongusto. Definitely not for tourists, in fact I would encourage only those seeking a Piedmontese experience to drop in. Everything is fresh and made in the kitchen, which is actually open to the restaurant.
IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Be patient, gastronomy takes time and preparation. If you want to be in and out, select something like a salad and water, or frankly go to a fast food place on via Po. Good food takes time and this little restaurant gets very busy. When all else fails, use your Grissini fishing rod to reel in your waitress or waiter for more drinks.
Erick with Fishing Pole Grissini Torinesi – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
The food is very good, the prices are reasonable and the wine list satisfactory, so you can always select a reasonably good wine to keep you busy while waiting. The local house selection includes Dolcetto, Nebbiolo, or Barolo by the glass, which suffice nicely.
Inside – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Kitchen – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Speaking of which, if you really love tomatoes, order the Bruschetta. For the price you get about seven large pieces of bread covered with garlic infused tomatoes and basil, with an olive oil drizzle. Yum.
Bruschetta – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Our food was cooked perfectly, the spaghetti sauce here is uncomplicated and delicious, the cook preferring the amazing Italian tomatoes to tell their own story. I love Italian pasta, um.
Agnolotti with Parmigiano – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Orecchiette with Sausage – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Lunch for (2) two: 30+ to 40+€
La Prosciutteria
On a lark and after a long walk through the Valentino Park and along the other side of the river, we tried La Prosciutteria on Piazza Vittorio Veneto and via Alfonso Bonafous.
Entrance – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
We ordered water, wine, a bruschetta and a charcuterie board. The bruschetta was good, the little olives they used were very tasty.
Bread, Bruschetta and Brunello – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
Charcuterie Board – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
Though I am not a meat eater by nature, the charcuterie here is quite good, especially the Tuscan cheese selections. I would suggest trying the cheeses first au natural, many are exceptional and have delicate flavors. Smearing the honey they provide I found masked their flavors, since none were blue cheeses and were not very strong. The honey by itself was delicious and would be great with a Roquefort, a Blue or similar cheese, but not much with the ones we were given.
Charcuterie Board – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
Back Wall – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
Esoteric Inside – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
In the end our bill was a bit on the high side, but not bad for a place on the Piazza Vittoria Veneto. Below is an example of what you can expect for two people. The two glasses of wine being the most expensive, similar to what you would find in the States now (it was never like this before, some prices are crazy, though I would say most glasses of local wines are frequently around 4-5€).
Il Konto (Our Bill) – La Prosciutteria – Turin – April 2023
Across from the Isola di San Giulio sits the town of Orta di San Giulio on a promontory jutting out into the lake towards it. It is mostly known for the hill above it, or Sacro Monte, which contains the World UNESCO site of Sacro Monte di Orta.
Omegna – Navigazione Lago d’Orta Servizio Pubblico di Linea – Photograph from afar
Last Treats Of Our Time On Lake Orta
We actually took the public ferry twice[1]It is actually called the Servizio di trasporto pubblico locale or Servizio Traghetti Orta to Orta San Giulio, in order to more fully explore what this little town had to offer. While there, we visited the Sacro Monte, the main street of town and many of the shops that are open along the way. After our short stay it was time to head back and enjoy what was left of Omegna before returning to Turin.
Orta San Giulio
A typical lake town on Lake Orta is San Giulio. As expected, most activity and the main square, is down by the water and along the shore of the lake. There are many cafes, bars and restaurants in Piazza Mario Motta, as well as some others sprinkled along the main street and in some alleys.
Orta San Giulio – Piazza Mario Motta
The main street, which changes its name almost every block, contains all of the shops in town. Here one can find anything from leather goods – made in Italy, to Piedmont agricultural goods and other local products.
San Giulio – Sculpture of San Francis of Assissi
San Giulio – Side Alley
San Giulio – Side Alley
San Giulio – Side Alley – No Head Room
San Giulio – Typical Restaurant or Enoteca Sign
San Giulio – Municipal Gardens
San Giulio – Municipal Gardens
San Giulio
San Giulio – Sign Painted on Wall
San Giulio – Main Street
Sacro Monte
There are two ways to walk the hill to Sacro Monte, one can either take a left or a right at the Church of Saint Mary of the Assumption on via Caire Albertoletti.
Orta San Giulio – Via Caire Albertoletti
Orta San Giulio – Via Caire Albertoletti – Toward Sacro Monte
Orta San Giulio – Via Caire Albertoletti to Via Palma
Orta San Giulio – The Town from Via Palma
Orta San Giulio – Overview from Via Palma
Orta San Giulio – Isola di San Giulio from Via Palma
Most people will take the right, it is much shorter and direct, but as we found out, may not be offered on some phone maps[2]I swiftly submitted an update on the missing road, as soon as I was able. If one takes the left, you will circumnavigate the hill and eventually bring you back around to where you can enter the Sacro Monte from the back parking lot entrance, about a 15-20 minute walk. Of course there is nothing wrong with this, it is just different and longer, but will get you to the same place.
Sacro Monte – Back Entrance Signs
Sacro Monte – Back Entrance Signs
Sacro Monte – Interlinking Paths to each Chapel
The Sacro Monte has numerous chapels which one can visit, each having its own purpose, according to Catholic religious sources. Of the twenty or so chapels and churches that comprise the site, we visited about a handful.
Sacro Monte – The Pozzo or Font
Sacro Monte – Chapel
Sacro Monte – Hand Directing Toward Church Eleven
Sacro Monte – Chapel Eleven
Sacro Monte – Chapel Eleven
Sacro Monte – Chapel Eleven
Sacro Monte – Main Entrance
Sacro Monte – Chapel Ten
Sacro Monte – Chapel Ten
Sacro Monte – Chapel Ten
Sacro Monte – Isola di San Giulio
Sacro Monte – Church of Saint Cyricus and the Cemetery
The Rest of Omegna
Our last couple of days in the town of Omegna were spent mostly relaxing. It rained one day, which really curtailed anything we could do, especially with respect to any hiking we had had in mind. However, we were able to venture out in the evening, after the rain had passed and enjoyed the evening mountain air.
Omegna – Via Giuseppe Mazzini
Omegna – Via Giuseppe Mazzini
Omegna – Side Street at Night
Omegna – Piazza XXIV April – Commune Building
Omegna – Nigoglia Stream at Night
Omegna – Lake at Night
Omegna – Lake at Night
As an afterthought we would have to say we thoroughly enjoyed our stay here; but must also honestly say, it’s not for everyone. Omegna is really laid back and probably accounts for the wild swings we saw in the number of tourists we saw day to day. The weekends are definitely busier, and all of the Italian holidays, so plan your trip accordingly. There is also a definite lack in the assortment of restaurants and we found it difficult to chose, after having been here for a week. It is also a haven for backpackers, so if you find them annoying, you might want to head elsewhere since they are pretty much everywhere enjoying the fine hiking that is available in the area.
Restaurants
Rosticceria Ruyi
The Chinese restaurant, Rosticceria Ruyi on via Giuseppe Mazzini, essentially saved us from culinary hell. After a week of Caprese, Pizza and Pasta, a well cook meal of rice and vegetables was sorely needed and this restaurant has the food at excellent prices (e.g. a dish of Cantonese Rice – 3€). However, be aware at the time of this writing, they open at 18:00 for take-away but were not serving sit down inside the restaurant until 20:15, or 8:15PM in the evening. So plan accordingly!
Visitors are free to come and enjoy the basilica, as well as the Walk of Solitude, though you will often hear few people adhering to the advice of all the signs on the path.
The Ferry Ride
An hour’s journey by ferry from Omegna will take you to the Island and other points of interest along the lake. You can purchase a day ticket for a little more than nine euros, or one-way and return-trip tickets for slightly less, depending on your itinerary.
Lake Orta – Omegna – Ferry Launch
The public ferry will make several stops along the way, before it reaches its final destination of Isle of San Giulio and the town of San Giulio itself. There are two main ferry routes, the green route – which goes the length of the lake twice daily, and the red route – which constantly goes to core destinations in the middle of the lake routinely during the day.
Lake Orta – Omegna – Ferry Launch
Lake Orta
Lake Orta – Ferry Ride to San Giulio
Lake Orta – Ferry Ride to San Giulio
Lake Orta – Ferry Ride to San Giulio
Lake Orta – Ferry Ride to San Giulio
Lake Orta – Ferry Ride to San Giulio- Isle of San Giulio
Lake Orta – Ferry Ride – Looking Toward Omegna
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Boat Launch View
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Boat Launch View
Lake Orta – Ferry Ride – Isle of San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Boat Launch View
Lake Orta – Boat Launch – Isle of San Giulio
The Island of San Giulio
There are only a few points of interest on the island. The basilica, the cafe, where one can get something to drink or a bite to eat when it’s lunchtime, and the Walk of Solitude.
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – From Ferry
Basilica of San Giulio
The basilica inside is replete with frescoes and other painting. and definitely worth a visit.
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Guilio
The slideshow below shows additional items you will see upon entering.
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Walk of Solitude
The walkway takes you completely around the island and requires about twenty or so minutes to complete, perhaps longer if you stop at the cafe or for photographs.
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Patti on the Walk of Silence
So, if you are looking to unwind and have a nice quiet walk in a very unique place, this island might be something for you to do if in the area. The only advice we can offer is to go early, that is, if you want maximum quiet and beat the other tourists before they crowd the beaten path. Enjoy!
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Monastery Tower
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Well
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Walk of Silence
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Boat Launch View
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Boat Launch View
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Boat Launch View
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Walk of Silence
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Interesting Gate
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Walk of Silence
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Walk of Silence
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Walk of Silence
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Walk of Silence – Nun Hand Knockers
Hidden quietly in the north of Italy is the small lake of Orta and the lazy town of Omegna. After two trains and a bus ride, we finally arrived at our new short trip destination. We checked into our three star hotel, the Croce Bianci, perhaps the best centrally located one in the town.
Orta Lake – Panorama from Omegna Shoreline
Because of its small size and lack of glamour, Lake Orta is often overlooked by most overseas travelers, who are more interested in the high impact tourist destinations to check off their bucket lists. It is visited mostly by Italians from Milan, some of whom own weekend homes here, the French, Germans and the occasional Brit. Since there is really not much to see and do on this side of the lake, a short slideshow is perhaps more in order.
Omegna – Nigoglia Square
Omegna – Lake Orta by the bridge
Omegna – The Hotel Croce Bianca (red building)
Omegna – The Strona
Omegna – Caduti Monument
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Caduti Monument and Hotel Croce Bianci – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Caduti Monument
Omegna – Lake Orta
Omegna – Lake Orta
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci – Lake Orta
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci – Lake Orta
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci – Flowers
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Lake Orta at night
Omegna – Lake Orta
Omegna – Ristorante Punti Di Vista
We made plans to visit Omegna just to relax and actually do nothing more than just check the lake out. This is definitely a good place to accomplish nothing. However, there are plenty of activities available, from camping, boating, cycling, swimming, hiking and the odd trek to a neighboring town, if one is so inclined. The area is definitely family friendly, even the town has a large and very well equipped playground for them.
The remainder of our trip will visit other parts of the lake and be continued in another entry, so stay tuned. Ciao for now…
Restaurants
Salera 16
A more hip and trendy place is the Salera 16, which caters to the younger crowd with burgers, fries and other handheld items. A good place to stop for something quick.
Omegna – Estiva: Fruit Salad with Prosciutto, Mozarella and Pesto – Salera 16
Omegna – Caesar Salad with Chicken and shaved Parmesan – Salera 16
Al Centrale Bistrot
This little bistrot has excellent food at great prices, though the menu is limited and changes daily. If you are not fussy and adaptable you definitely find a tasty treat here. Their wines by the glass are very good.
Omegna – Pasta Bolognese and Insalata Mista – Al Centrale Bistrot
Omegna – Ravioli with Pesto – Al Centrale Bistrot
Ristorante Il Cavalieri
The first restaurant we visited when we arrived, it offers traditional Italian fare and pizza. It behaves more like a trattoria and gets a lot of local traffic. So an excellent place for reasonably priced authentic Italian food. I found the Vino Sfuso, or bulk house wine, a bit of a disappointment, but it is still drinkable and reasonably priced.
Omegna – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria
Omegna – Ravioli and side salad – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria
Omegna – Chicken Cutlet Milano Style with Fries – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria
Omegna – Tartufo – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria
Ristorante Punti D’Vista
A ten minute walk along the Lungolago Gramsci of Omegna on the west bank will bring you to this hotel and restaurant. Set slightly uphill from the road it has a commanding view of the lake and plenty of outside seating. Reservations are recommended though, as the patio seating fills up quite fast.
Omegna – Ristorante Punti Di Vista
Omegna – Rigatoni with olive oil, tomatoes and fried vegetables – Ristorante Punti Di Vista
Omegna – Cheese Cake with currants, Coffee and Sambuca – Ristorante Punti Di Vista
