Stresa, Italy – Borromeo Islands

Borromeo Islands

Of the five Borromeo islands that make up that small group in Lake Maggiore, three have ferry service to them, one is uninhabitable, but has a beach you can visit, and the other, not far off the coast near Pallanza, is small and not frequented by visitors.

CMA Ship Ticket – Tickets For Two – Three Island Tour – Stresa, Italy

CMA Boat Service to the islands – Stresa, Italy

One should note, at least for our CMA ferry service, the islands are visited in an order, as presented below. Altering this order is impossible, if not very difficult, so plan accordingly.

Isola Bella

Isola Bella is probably the most frequented of the three. It has an ostensibly renowned italianate garden, which you have to purchase tickets for of course, but they do include access to the palazzo and the other gardens on Isola Madre.

Isola Madre from Isola Bella – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

The Palazzo

The entrance to the gardens is via the palazzo, you cannot just walk into them. We walked through the old fishing town thinking there were multiple entrances to the gardens, there are not. There is only one, through the palazzo and after the ticket counter.

Palazzo Borromea – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Entrance to the palazzo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

A walk-through of the palazzo is provided in the below slideshow.

Staircase to Salone Nuovo – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Old Marble for staircase – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Sala del Trono and Sala della Regina – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Interesting desk – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Artwork – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Galleria Berthier – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Main Dining – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Sala Nuovo – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Diorama of Palazzo Borromeo – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Sala della Musica – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Murano glass chandeliers – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Puppets and Marionettes – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Odd rock style rooms – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Stone spiral stairway – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Hallway storing other artifacts – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Galleria degli Arazzi – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

The gardens are accessed from the palazzo through what is called Diana’s Atrium, a small sub-garden with stairways to the garden. There is not much to see here and it is probably meant more as a meeting place, than any important adjunct to the gardens, so we ascended to the gardens almost immediately.

Garden Entrance – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

The Gardens

The gardens do contain some interesting species, especially the old Camphor tree that was planted there in 1819 by Vitaliano IX Borromeo. It also houses a peacock and peahen, which will provide the necessary background noise in the gardens for any videos you wish to make.

Camphor Tree on Camphor Terrace – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Garden walkway – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Stairs to another level – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Peacock and Peahen – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Stresa – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Gardino d’Amore – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Gardens – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

The Gardens – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Apparently the pride of the gardens is the Massimo Theater. A rather odd assemblage of opulent statues and finished by Carlo IV, it probably points to the decedent past these properties enjoyed.

Massimo Theater – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Isola dei Pescatori

Even though its proper name of Isola Superiore belies its size, Isola dei Pescatori is the smallest of the three islands. Its main attraction is the small fishing town that stretches from three quarters of its shoreline.

Small town streets – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Narrow alleys – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Jolly Roger – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Hydrangea – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy

There is only enough room here for restaurants, cafes, shops, boat docks and the odd park on the northwest side of the island. So, casually walking its streets and narrow alleyways is, more or less, the only thing to do here, aside from eating of course.

Rocky beach on the island – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Park at the end of island – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Isola Madre

Isola Madre is the largest of the three and for the most part is an island with a garden and palazzo on it. The garden is entered first, after turning right off the boat and taking the a long garden path walk around a third of the island.

Entrance to gardens – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Old Palm tree – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Coast – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Patti in gardens – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

View of Pallanza and Laveno – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Pallanza – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Once you pass the entrance, where a person will scan your tickets, the garden begins.

Entrance statue – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

The Garden

I found this garden quieter, more casual and more enjoyable overall. It has a few different sections, including a jungle environment which is very wet and grows ferns and other jungle type plants.

Looking back at Stresa – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Patti on garden steps – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Garden walkway – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Eucalyptus trees – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Flowers – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

More flowers and Dark Throat Golden Pheasant – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Dark Throat Golden Pheasant – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

More flowers – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Hydrangea – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Ferns in the wet part of the gardens – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

More ferns – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Old boat or gondola dock – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

An old Taxodium Distichum or swamp cypress – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Leaves of the swamp cypress – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

A rather poor specimen of Sequoiadendron Giganteum, labeled Wellingtonia Gigantea, or the giant sequoia – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Pathway and Bamboo grove – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

The Palazzo

Immediately outside the entrance to the palazzo is a huge Cashmir Cypress tree, that was once blown over by a tornado on the island and later saved. It is indeed a magnificent specimen.

The Cashmir Cypress – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

The interior of the palazzo is very interesting and a bit disturbing as well. It contains a lot of desiderata, so the displays can often appear disjointed and not themed well. However, taken as the idiosyncrasies of its creators and owners, it is perhaps more understandable. I found it enjoyable though confused at times, in its own way.

Antonio Albertini, Biuditta con la Testa di Oloferne – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Exhibit – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Statue – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Cypress tree from balcony – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Main room – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Fireplace – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Hallway crowded with extra furniture – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Chapel and outside garden – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Ivory and Ebony tabletop – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Room with oddities – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Bedroom – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Bedroom for baby and mother – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Cradle – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Hallway – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Elaborate mannequins with Marionette stage – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Marionette stage – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Marionettes and small puppets – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Marionettes on stage – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Odd women’s room – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Dark hallway filled with unused furniture – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Interesting painting – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Study – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Sitting room – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Murano glass chandelier – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Another Murano glass chandelier – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Old chest – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

The Chapel inside – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Outside and exit to boats – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

We thoroughly enjoyed our day visiting all three islands. Though it is a lot to see in one day, it took us about five hours, it is manageable. It might be more difficult if it is hot outside, since all of the gardens are outside and the palazzos do not appears to have any air-conditioning in them. However, there are plenty of places to buy water on each of the islands, so staying hydrated should not be an issue.

Patti by Small pond – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Our CMA ferry – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Leaving the island – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

The island from our ferry – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Restaurants

Though there are restaurants and cafes on all the islands, we ate on the island of Pescatori because it was in the middle of our day boat trip to all of the islands, and at around half past one, it broke the trip up just about right.

Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcodero

The Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcodero is on the small island of Pescatori. In fact, most of the good restaurants of the three islands are probably here. It has a wide variety of Italian dishes that one can choose from the menu. For lunch, we kept it simple, since we were both not feeling one hundred percent and already had a substantial breakfast at the hotel.

From the boat – Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcadero – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcadero – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Spaghetti with tomatoes and lentils – Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcadero – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy

Spaghetti in simple tomato sauce – Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcadero – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy

1 July, 2023

Stresa, Italy – Quiet Lake Retreat

Stresa

Stresa is a small lake-side tourist attraction on Lake Maggiore, Italy. It is frequented by Italians, Brits, French, Germans, Asians and the odd American. It is only a tiny strip of about a few kilometers, where there are a dozen or so hotels. It is not very busy, unlike the Mediterranean coast, so it is very laid back and relaxing – a quiet retreat.

The area is know for its three Borromean islands, Isola Bella, Isola dei Pescatori (also known as Isola Superiore) and Isola Madre. More on these later.

The town is rather simple, but it has ample restaurants and other types of shopping. There is also an amazing AgriGelateria at Corso Umberto I, which has excellent gelato with all natural and authentic flavors, a must stop, especially when it is really hot outside.

Lungolago di Stresa

Stresa also has a wonderful boardwalk area stretching from Stresa along the lake front and becoming the Passeggiata del lago di Carciano, which is directly across from Isola Bella. It’s a bit over a kilometer and will take about a quarter to half of an hour to walk, depending on your pace.

Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy

Isola Bella – Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy

Lake Maggiore and Isola Bella, Isola Pescatori – Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy

Lake Maggiore – Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy

Hotel Regina Palace

In its heyday, this four star hotel must have been a place to see and enjoy. However, aside from its opulent structure, this hotel is a solid three-star hotel than what it’s advertised.

The issues we had while here for our short five day star were as follows:

- Our room was not vacuumed for our entire stay.
- There was no Hair Conditioner nor Body Lotion in the bathroom.
- The plumbing is old, requires repairs and updating, some things leak continuously.
- The walls in the rooms are paper-thin and the painting is dated.
- Room service does not fill everything you would expect, e.g. tissues.
- In the dining area – they do not replace things unless you request and even then you might not get it, e.g. syrup for your pancakes.
- In the dining area – you may have to seat yourself, the concierge is not very attentive. I know it’s Italy, but most of the time half of the staff is standing around doing nothing.

The hotel is in a very strategic position along the coast, it is both very close to the islands and the town, this was one of the reasons we selected it. So, if you visit this hotel, be aware of the aforementioned issues and go in with your eyes wide shut.

Car Entrance – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy

Main Lobby – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy

Bar – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy

View of the three islands – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy

View of Leveno and Monte Crocetta – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy

26 April, 2023

Turin, Italy – Our Return And More Eating!

Turin In Spring

Perhaps one of the best times to visit Turin is in the spring. The wind is still blowing from the north, the rivers are full, the trees are in bloom and the swallows and swifts are returning from their long winter stay in Africa. We live close to the river and found you do not need insecticide here, just a healthy population of these birds and you will rarely be bitten.

A great time to walk the city and visit its many restaurants and cafes as well as the river Po and Valentino Park. On weekends and holidays there is always activity on the river.

Restaurants

For my readers, some secrets that will help you beat the tourist lines in Turin at the other places and make your stomach very happy.

Il Buongusto

One of our new favorites and right around the corner from our apartment at via Alfonso Bonafous is the local secret, Il Buongusto. Definitely not for tourists, in fact I would encourage only those seeking a Piedmontese experience to drop in. Everything is fresh and made in the kitchen, which is actually open to the restaurant.

Be patient, gastronomy takes time and preparation. If you want to be in and out, select something like a salad and water, or frankly go to a fast food place on via Po. Good food takes time and this little restaurant gets very busy. When all else fails, use your Grissini fishing rod to reel in your waitress or waiter for more drinks.

Erick with Fishing Pole Grissini Torinesi – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy

The food is very good, the prices are reasonable and the wine list satisfactory, so you can always select a reasonably good wine to keep you busy while waiting. The local house selection includes Dolcetto, Nebbiolo, or Barolo by the glass, which suffice nicely.

Speaking of which, if you really love tomatoes, order the Bruschetta. For the price you get about seven large pieces of bread covered with garlic infused tomatoes and basil, with an olive oil drizzle. Yum.

Bruschetta – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy

Our food was cooked perfectly, the spaghetti sauce here is uncomplicated and delicious, the cook preferring the amazing Italian tomatoes to tell their own story. I love Italian pasta, um.

Agnolotti with Parmigiano – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy

Orecchiette with Sausage – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy

Lunch for (2) two: 30+ to 40+€

La Prosciutteria

On a lark and after a long walk through the Valentino Park and along the other side of the river, we tried La Prosciutteria on Piazza Vittorio Veneto and via Alfonso Bonafous.

We ordered water, wine, a bruschetta and a charcuterie board. The bruschetta was good, the little olives they used were very tasty.

Bread, Bruschetta and Brunello – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy

Charcuterie Board – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy

Though I am not a meat eater by nature, the charcuterie here is quite good, especially the Tuscan cheese selections. I would suggest trying the cheeses first au natural, many are exceptional and have delicate flavors. Smearing the honey they provide I found masked their flavors, since none were blue cheeses and were not very strong. The honey by itself was delicious and would be great with a Roquefort, a Blue or similar cheese, but not much with the ones we were given.

Back Wall – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy

Esoteric Inside – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy

In the end our bill was a bit on the high side, but not bad for a place on the Piazza Vittoria Veneto. Below is an example of what you can expect for two people. The two glasses of wine being the most expensive, similar to what you would find in the States now (it was never like this before, some prices are crazy, though I would say most glasses of local wines are frequently around 4-5€).

Il Konto (Our Bill) – La Prosciutteria – Turin – April 2023

Lunch for (2) two: 30+ to 50+€

20 August, 2022

Orta San Giulio, Italy – Promontory for Pilgrims

Across from the Isola di San Giulio sits the town of Orta di San Giulio on a promontory jutting out into the lake towards it. It is mostly known for the hill above it, or Sacro Monte, which contains the World UNESCO site of Sacro Monte di Orta.

Omegna – Navigazione Lago d’Orta Servizio Pubblico di Linea – Photograph from afar

Last Treats Of Our Time On Lake Orta

We actually took the public ferry twice^[1]It is actually called the Servizio di trasporto pubblico locale or Servizio Traghetti Orta to Orta San Giulio, in order to more fully explore what this little town had to offer. While there, we visited the Sacro Monte, the main street of town and many of the shops that are open along the way. After our short stay it was time to head back and enjoy what was left of Omegna before returning to Turin.

Omegna-OrtaBoatRide_01

Omegna-OrtaBoatRide_02

Omegna-OrtaBoatRide_03

Orta San Giulio

A typical lake town on Lake Orta is San Giulio. As expected, most activity and the main square, is down by the water and along the shore of the lake. There are many cafes, bars and restaurants in Piazza Mario Motta, as well as some others sprinkled along the main street and in some alleys.

The main street, which changes its name almost every block, contains all of the shops in town. Here one can find anything from leather goods – made in Italy, to Piedmont agricultural goods and other local products.

San Giulio – Sculpture of San Francis of Assissi

San Giulio – Typical Restaurant or Enoteca Sign

Sacro Monte

There are two ways to walk the hill to Sacro Monte, one can either take a left or a right at the Church of Saint Mary of the Assumption on via Caire Albertoletti.

Orta San Giulio – Via Caire Albertoletti

Orta San Giulio – Via Caire Albertoletti – Toward Sacro Monte

Orta San Giulio – Via Caire Albertoletti to Via Palma

Orta San Giulio – The Town from Via Palma

Orta San Giulio – Overview from Via Palma

Orta San Giulio – Isola di San Giulio from Via Palma

Most people will take the right, it is much shorter and direct, but as we found out, may not be offered on some phone maps^[2]I swiftly submitted an update on the missing road, as soon as I was able. If one takes the left, you will circumnavigate the hill and eventually bring you back around to where you can enter the Sacro Monte from the back parking lot entrance, about a 15-20 minute walk. Of course there is nothing wrong with this, it is just different and longer, but will get you to the same place.

Sacro Monte – Interlinking Paths to each Chapel

The Sacro Monte has numerous chapels which one can visit, each having its own purpose, according to Catholic religious sources. Of the twenty or so chapels and churches that comprise the site, we visited about a handful.

Sacro Monte – Hand Directing Toward Church Eleven

Sacro Monte – Church of Saint Cyricus and the Cemetery

The Rest of Omegna

Our last couple of days in the town of Omegna were spent mostly relaxing. It rained one day, which really curtailed anything we could do, especially with respect to any hiking we had had in mind. However, we were able to venture out in the evening, after the rain had passed and enjoyed the evening mountain air.

Omegna – Piazza XXIV April – Commune Building

As an afterthought we would have to say we thoroughly enjoyed our stay here; but must also honestly say, it’s not for everyone. Omegna is really laid back and probably accounts for the wild swings we saw in the number of tourists we saw day to day. The weekends are definitely busier, and all of the Italian holidays, so plan your trip accordingly. There is also a definite lack in the assortment of restaurants and we found it difficult to chose, after having been here for a week. It is also a haven for backpackers, so if you find them annoying, you might want to head elsewhere since they are pretty much everywhere enjoying the fine hiking that is available in the area.

Restaurants

Rosticceria Ruyi

The Chinese restaurant, Rosticceria Ruyi on via Giuseppe Mazzini, essentially saved us from culinary hell. After a week of Caprese, Pizza and Pasta, a well cook meal of rice and vegetables was sorely needed and this restaurant has the food at excellent prices (e.g. a dish of Cantonese Rice – 3€). However, be aware at the time of this writing, they open at 18:00 for take-away but were not serving sit down inside the restaurant until 20:15, or 8:15PM in the evening. So plan accordingly!

References[+]

References
↑1	It is actually called the Servizio di trasporto pubblico locale or Servizio Traghetti Orta
↑2	I swiftly submitted an update on the missing road, as soon as I was able

19 August, 202221 August, 2022

Isola San Giulio, Italy – Walk Of Solitude

On Lake Orta is the small Island of San Giulio. Once a settlement built on top of a craggy rock, complete with the Basilica of San Giulio, it is now a Benedictine Monastery.

Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Panorama View

Visitors are free to come and enjoy the basilica, as well as the Walk of Solitude, though you will often hear few people adhering to the advice of all the signs on the path.

The Ferry Ride

An hour’s journey by ferry from Omegna will take you to the Island and other points of interest along the lake. You can purchase a day ticket for a little more than nine euros, or one-way and return-trip tickets for slightly less, depending on your itinerary.

The public ferry will make several stops along the way, before it reaches its final destination of Isle of San Giulio and the town of San Giulio itself. There are two main ferry routes, the green route – which goes the length of the lake twice daily, and the red route – which constantly goes to core destinations in the middle of the lake routinely during the day.

Lake Orta – Ferry Ride to San Giulio- Isle of San Giulio

Lake Orta – Ferry Ride – Looking Toward Omegna

Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Boat Launch View

Lake Orta – Ferry Ride – Isle of San Giulio

Lake Orta – Boat Launch – Isle of San Giulio

The Island of San Giulio

There are only a few points of interest on the island. The basilica, the cafe, where one can get something to drink or a bite to eat when it’s lunchtime, and the Walk of Solitude.

Basilica of San Giulio

The basilica inside is replete with frescoes and other painting. and definitely worth a visit.

Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Guilio

The slideshow below shows additional items you will see upon entering.

Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio

Walk of Solitude

The walkway takes you completely around the island and requires about twenty or so minutes to complete, perhaps longer if you stop at the cafe or for photographs.

Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Patti on the Walk of Silence

So, if you are looking to unwind and have a nice quiet walk in a very unique place, this island might be something for you to do if in the area. The only advice we can offer is to go early, that is, if you want maximum quiet and beat the other tourists before they crowd the beaten path. Enjoy!

Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Monastery Tower

Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Walk of Silence

Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Interesting Gate

Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Walk of Silence – Nun Hand Knockers

18 August, 2022

Omegna, Italy – Lazy Italian Refuge

Hidden quietly in the north of Italy is the small lake of Orta and the lazy town of Omegna. After two trains and a bus ride, we finally arrived at our new short trip destination. We checked into our three star hotel, the Croce Bianci, perhaps the best centrally located one in the town.

Orta Lake – Panorama from Omegna Shoreline

Because of its small size and lack of glamour, Lake Orta is often overlooked by most overseas travelers, who are more interested in the high impact tourist destinations to check off their bucket lists. It is visited mostly by Italians from Milan, some of whom own weekend homes here, the French, Germans and the occasional Brit. Since there is really not much to see and do on this side of the lake, a short slideshow is perhaps more in order.

Omegna – The Hotel Croce Bianca (red building)

Omegna – Caduti Monument and Hotel Croce Bianci – Lungolago Gramsci

We made plans to visit Omegna just to relax and actually do nothing more than just check the lake out. This is definitely a good place to accomplish nothing. However, there are plenty of activities available, from camping, boating, cycling, swimming, hiking and the odd trek to a neighboring town, if one is so inclined. The area is definitely family friendly, even the town has a large and very well equipped playground for them.

The remainder of our trip will visit other parts of the lake and be continued in another entry, so stay tuned. Ciao for now…

Restaurants

Salera 16

A more hip and trendy place is the Salera 16, which caters to the younger crowd with burgers, fries and other handheld items. A good place to stop for something quick.

Omegna – Caesar Salad with Chicken and shaved Parmesan – Salera 16

Al Centrale Bistrot

This little bistrot has excellent food at great prices, though the menu is limited and changes daily. If you are not fussy and adaptable you definitely find a tasty treat here. Their wines by the glass are very good.

Omegna – Ravioli with Pesto – Al Centrale Bistrot

Ristorante Il Cavalieri

The first restaurant we visited when we arrived, it offers traditional Italian fare and pizza. It behaves more like a trattoria and gets a lot of local traffic. So an excellent place for reasonably priced authentic Italian food. I found the Vino Sfuso, or bulk house wine, a bit of a disappointment, but it is still drinkable and reasonably priced.

Omegna – Ravioli and side salad – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria

Omegna – Chicken Cutlet Milano Style with Fries – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria

Omegna – Tartufo – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria

Ristorante Punti D’Vista

A ten minute walk along the Lungolago Gramsci of Omegna on the west bank will bring you to this hotel and restaurant. Set slightly uphill from the road it has a commanding view of the lake and plenty of outside seating. Reservations are recommended though, as the patio seating fills up quite fast.

Omegna – Rigatoni with olive oil, tomatoes and fried vegetables – Ristorante Punti Di Vista

Omegna – Cheese Cake with currants, Coffee and Sambuca – Ristorante Punti Di Vista

28 June, 2022

Chieri, Italy – A Hundred Tower Town

Day Trip To Chieri

Surrounded on the three sides, by what are generally called the Hills of Piedmont (for which Superga Hill is one), sits the town of Chieri. A town that goes back to ancient times, due to the richness of the area and the Po river valley.

Chieri – Overlook from the Church of Sant Giorgio – Looking west toward Pino Torinese

From Turin it is easy to get to Chieri. One can either take a bus or take the Sfm1 train from Porta Susa, which runs about every thirty minutes, it is about a thirty minute ride to Chieri and the last stop for this train.

Chieri – Patti at the Tandem Bar on Vittorio Emanuele II

The main pedestrian way, via Vittorio Emanuele II, is a short walk from the train station and has numerous cafes and bars, here you can purchase a coffee or other drink, before you explore this quaint little town.

Town Of A Hundred Towers

During the early middle ages, the town once had numerous towers, especially built into the town wall, which were erected (like in many other towns in Italy) as defensive structures. Most of these were destroyed by Frederick Barbarossa’s army when they laid waste to the town in 1154. However, a few still remain, one of which can be seen below.

Church of Sant Giorgio

This is the highest point and from here you can get a commanding view of the town, as seen in the two photographs above and the beginning photograph.

Chieri – Church of Sant Giorgio tunnel to overlook

Other than that, there’s not much else to do in Chieri, except perhaps amble through its quiet streets and perhaps do some shopping. Here is a short slide show of some of the other things you can see while here.

Chieri – via Vittorio Emanuele II and the Arco Trionfale

Chieri – Piazza Mazzini and the Church of Sant Guglielmo

Chieri – Belltower from pathway below the Church of Sant Giorgio

Chieri – Arco Trionfale di Chieri – from Piazza Umberto

Chieri – Torre campanaria del Duomo di Chieri

Chieri – pedestrian way Vittorio Emanuele II

Chieri – Piazza Cavour and the Church Ss Nomini Iesi Ac Sanctis Bernardino Et Rocho

Restaurants

With limited time we were only able to visit one restaurant while here, though several that came up on our search were not open until the evening. However, you will find the choice below to be exceptionally good, if and when you have the chance to visit this charming little town in Piedmont.

Trattoria della Erbe

This trattoria sits on the corner of the Piazza Umberto I and via San Domenico, is fairly non-descript, but the food is authentic Sardinian and quite good.

Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Caponata Siciliana

The menu changes daily and is posted on both a board outside and on the window next to the entrance. The menu is restrictive, as for most small establishments like this one, but everything we ordered was quite tasty and delicious. We started with some antipasti, a Caponata Siciliana, served with eggplant, onion, peppers, green olives and other goodies, not hot, but just warmed a bit. A slight tinge of vinegar mixed with the tomato based sauce was just right to get the taste buds to pucker for more. Our mains, or primis, came out a short time after and included the Levantine di Mare for Patti and for me, the Ravioli Sardi. Both were delicious and portioned correctly, just enough to leave a little room for dessert!

Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Levantina di Mare

Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Ravioli Sardi

The dessert was actually unexpectedly delicious and savory. A Sardinian Seada or Seadas, that can only be explained as a kind of dough pocket filled with assorted cheese, heated and served with honey. The sweetness of the honey and the saltiness of the cheese make for an unexpectedly tasty treat.

Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Seada or Seadas

Top that off later with a caffè and Sambuca (to make caffè corretto of course) and you have the culmination of the great lunch.

All in all, Chieri makes a great day trip, if only just to walk around and soak up its quiet stillness, after being in Turin for a few weeks. If only to experience some great Sardinian food at this trattoria!

28 June, 2022

Torino, Italy – Our Latest Local Bites

More Local Restaurants In Turin

We have been back in Turin for about a week and had to start knocking restaurants off of our list, at least those that we always wanted to visit. After our recent trip to Greece, we decided we had had enough of eating in and it was time to start eating out again. The following are a few special ones we feel we should mention.

Disclaimer: If you are coming from the US, please keep in mind portion sizes in Italy and perhaps most of Europe for that matter, are not like in the States. In Italy there is always Antipasti, a Primi and then a Secondi for those who need more.

La Piola di Alfredo

When in Piedmont and especially Turin, if you see the word Piola in the name of a restaurant, you are more than likely going to experience some really good local food. You may think of the word Piola synonymous with Trattoria.

The restaurant itself is quietly unassuming and nondescript. The owners and help speak no English, so it is best if you learn at least a little Italian (or your favorite translation application, good luck), or at the very minimum point to what you want.

Pollo Carpione with Vinegar Onions and Tomato Salad

My wife an I were just interested in something to drink and a simple lunch. Though the bottled Nebbiolo wine by the glass ran about €5/glass and was very good, the cheaper alternative was the Vino Sfuso, or house bulk wine, which can be purchased for €2/glass or €10/Liter and is probably very good (I will make a point of it to try it next time).

Nuovo Zhen Bao Chinese Restaurant

We have written about Nuovo Zhen Bao before and it has become one of our go-to places for Chinese food. We have tried other Chinese restaurants throughout Turin, but none have come close to the delicious salads (especially the dressing on the Insalata Cinese), spring rolls and main courses as does this restaurant. The service is usually first rate and they normally have plenty of help on hand.

They have both outside and inside dining, as well as an excellent lunch (Pranzo) menu for only €10, which includes a bottle of water, appetizer, first and second courses.

Stimonio

A bistro that serves naturally and bio friendly items from its menu. They have several items, such as sweet and vegan pancakes, as well as other bio- and earth-friendly choices.

We chose the tuna salad, so they are not exclusively vegan. I had preferred a more complete Piemontese menu, but they do offer a plethora of smoothies and other health friendly items from which to chose. They do not have a house wine or bulk wine (vino sfuso), so wine by the glass can be a bit expensive for Italy at €5/glass (I normally wouldn’t mind, but for that price it isn’t that good).

Ristorante L’Agrofoglio

Much to our dismay, we must announce the closure of the L’Agrofoglio Ristorante and Piola. We had reported on their very good menu and excellent wine cellar, only to be saddened by their closure when we arrived back in Turin early this year. A major loss, I will never forget the unbelievable Barolo that we enjoyed there during our Sunday lunch in July of 2021. A wine, I subsequently tried to order a few months later, only to be told it was no longer available. I lamented of course. (We tried the 2013, which sadly, wasn’t quite the same).

22 May, 2022

Angrogna, Italy – A Most Secret Little Chapel

Angrogna – A Waldensian Refuge

A short drive, just outside Torre Pellice, is the small commune of Angrogna. Situated high up on the hill. Overlooking Torre Pellice, Angrogna commands a very nice view of the valley floor and hides a local secret in the form of a tiny underground chapel by a mostly unknown religious sect.

The Waldensians

The Waldensians were and are a pre-reformation sect that was extremely persecuted by the Roman Catholic Church as heretical. Therefore, they had to take their religious practices in many places underground, in order to escape discrimination, capture, torture and in many cases death. In Angrogna you will find one such hide out, a small cave on a mountainside used as a chapel. Here members would secretly meet in order to carry out their many religious practices without the notice of the church or local onlookers.

The Waldensian Chapel

The cave is a poor collection of boulders left by the ice age that apparently produced a cave structure suitable enough for such practices. It is difficult to find, if they were not signs and an entrance stairway to its opening. Even then, the entrance is wet, a very tight fit for most present individuals, and thus requires a degree climbing to actually reach the inner chamber.

Sam, Our Host, Walking Down The Stairs To The Waldensian Chapel

The Waldensian Chapel Inner Cave From Entrance

The Waldensian Chapel – Light From Above

The Waldensian Chapel – The Chapel Altar Lit By A Sunbeam

The Waldensian Chapel – Chapel Altar And Inside – Using A Flash

The Waldensian Chapel – The Altar – Using A Flash

The inner chamber is a small, wet and very dark room about five by ten meters. It includes a small makeshift altar, but nothing else. In its day, it must have been something to experience during a mass.

The School Of Odin-Bertot

Very close by and less than a few hundred meter walk from the hidden chapel, is the School of Odin-Bertot.

Reminiscent of one room school houses in many other rural areas, this one specifically served the mountain people of the area. Since the above link explains all, a few more photographs of the interior and the museum are all that’s in order at this point.

Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot – School House Room

Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot – Another View Of The School House Room

How To Get There

There are several ways to get there, either via the School of Odin, or by the parking area further away. Since maps are worth a thousands words, here are two that you will find once there, but they also show the overall area so you can use this with what ever map, app or device you have to cross reference your way there.

Map For The Waldensian Church And School Of Odin

Directions

Between Torre Pellice and Luserna San Giovanni you should find road 161. At the traffic circle, take the road towards Angrogna. You should also see signs for the Guieiza d’la Tana, the Chabas and the Vaccera. Keep following road to the main town square, then continue for about two kilometers and you will arrive in the hamlet of Serre. Turn right, you should see the beginning of the path and the signs “Chanforan” and “Odin”. Walk the path, following the sign for Ghieisa D’La Tana. You will eventually come to a wooden railing with the words Entrata on it, walk down the steps, you have arrived at the temple.

20 May, 2022

Villanova, Italy – Hiking to Rifugio Jervis – Up, Up, Up!

Hiking Rifugio Willi Jervis

An easy day hike from Villanova in Val Pellice, or the Pellice River Valley, later to become the Torrente Pellice, is the destination of the Refuge of Willi Jervis, known locally as Rifugio Jervis. The Pellice is actually formed on the western flank of Mount Grenaro, which would be down the valley pictured below and to the left.

View near the Rifugio Jervia at 1740 meters (about 5710 feet) by the Torrente Pellice

The Hike

Though the hike should have only taken us a hour and fifteen minutes up and the same back, it took us approximately three and a half hours. Some of this was taken up by stopping for photographs and the occasional drink (it is important to stay hydrated, especially when it gets warm, plus at altitude the body loses more moisture, so be careful). This of course cannot be helped when faced with a new experience and such beauty.

Starting Point Villanova

The drive from Malpertus to Villanova took all of ten minutes on the windy roads of the Conca Cialancia Natural Park , which includes the Val Pellice and the surrounding mountains. Our hosts, Sam and Lisa Chiodo at Renovating Italy at Borgata Malpertus, are amazing and were kind enough to give us a ride and later pick us up at the start of the trail in Villanova. If you are looking for a home base in the area, look them up, they are both great.

Commune hiking signs in Villanova, at the start of your trek

Sign at Villanova, showing routes and some history

Trail signs showing other trails and directions in Villanova

Looking closely at the wooden signs above, our destination is the last item on the left hand side, Rif. Willi Jervis. It estimates the average hike time as one hour and fifteen minutes, but it took us considerably more, since we were always stopping to take photographs, or just to admire the views.

We took the Mulattiera which is difficult enough

Though we actually took the Mulattiera, or mule path, we went down the Sentiero to see the waterfall. The more difficult Sentiero, or pathway, which goes over boulders can be taken, but we thought the mule trail would be difficult enough and our host Sam agreed. So we walked down to the Cascata di Villanova, a waterfall not far from our starting point, to get a short video and walked back up to start our hike.

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The Hike Started Smooth Enough

Once you start the climb, it goes up and down for quite a bit until it’s all uphill. There are several places where you have to take care and be very attentive, especially in the beginning and end, but the views and experience are well worth the effort. Unlike other climbs above the timber-line or through a forest, the Torrente Pellice provides both the white-noise to block every crazy little thought you might be having, as well as the solitude that anyone can use to reach a true calm in one’s life. But I imagine there are still those that walk as fast as they can just to get from point to point, and we actually saw a few.

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The trail at this point is rather quiet and not very torrential, but further up its character changes drastically. So we started, following a small road until we hit the actually trailhead.

Waterfall, you will see more of these, that’s why they call it Torrente and not Val anymore

The water is clear blue, pristine and full of trout

The hiking starts out smooth on a rather level roadway

What started out as one hour fifteen minutes, is now one hour thirty, huh?

Il prato montagna, or the mountain meadow

The beautiful flowers of the mountain meadows

More beautiful flowers of the mountain meadows

We are headed up there, see that other waterfall?

The trail narrows and more flowers of the mountain meadows

And that waterfall we saw from can be heard from where we were standing.

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The Start Of The Actual Hiking Trail

The trail is actually paved with heavy stones most of the way and starts down, instead of up. However, that does not last long.

Patti sitting in front of our first of many cliffs on the stone covered hiking trail

If it weren’t for the absolutely gorgeous weather, we might have reconsidered our decision. The rocks that pave this trail are very slippery and well worn and are most likely very hazardous when wet. However, we remained steadfast and undeterred and pushed on, even with the frequent stops for photographs.

Wide angle view of the trail and the valley below

Looking towards Villanova, which is getting smaller

Patti on our boulder trail and the beautiful Italian Cottian Alps

Rock climbers on rock face, notice yellow dot just above the green to the right

Val Pellice and the High Cottian Alps in the distance

The black salamander is protected here, be careful

We also frequently stopped for a few videos too, just to record the noise of the water moving, which at times was thunderous.

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Amazing Waterfalls

We passed several places where water was coming in from other tributaries, mostly in the form of these beautiful waterfalls.

And the actually hear the real thing, a short video.

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From Here – UP, UP, UP

After all that water, the trail kicked up rather steeply. Not that it was a problem, but you did have to watch your footing. Some people hiked with poles, which is definitely a good option, but I find them noisy and annoying and prefer listening to the wind, water and any birds I can hear.

The access road trail again and easier hiking for a time

Trail comes out occasionally on an access road

Only to be back on the trail soon enough

The trail became more challenging the closer we got the to the top

Cresting The Trail

Just as we were about to finish our climb, we ran into a class of young rock climbers and their teachers. Speaking several languages and very close to the Italian-France border, they were obviously making a day of it. They all had brought a backpack with them and those who were not climbing were running around like mountain goats.

A class of rock climbers, speaking French, Italian, Spanish and some German

The trail was actually pretty steep right were all the climbers were, so we had to take our time to move through them as they were belaying.

The steepness of the trail demanded a lot of switchbacks

It got pretty cool up there, some clouds started to roll in

Patti on the same rock with the Val Pellice behind her

Erick on the trail with the Val Pellice behind him

After a few photographs, I actually turned around to take a short video of the climbers, since some of them seemed quite adventurous and adept at the skill.

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Rifugio Willi Jervis

The upper alpine valley where the refuge is, was a big change from following the river all day. There are marmots, birds and the sound of insects everywhere, but then again, it was a beautiful spring morning.

Finally reached the upper valley floor by the Refuge, trail signs

The upper Val Pellice, looking toward Lago Lungo and the cloud shrouded Pic Traverse

Mont Manzol to the left with Mount Granero peeking out from behind it

Nice panorama of the valley floor and mountains

Inside Rifugio Willi Jervis, the bar is downstairs, but it was closed, no caffe for us

Descending

On the way down we took a slightly different route, keeping to the access road more, mostly due to the threat of bad weather. It appeared there were several thunderstorms possibly brewing. So, not wanting to be cold and wet on a trail in the high alps, we decided to descend early and quickly, instead of waiting for pranzo at the refuge, which probably started at twelve noon sharp.

Taking a slightly different route, you can see the hiking trail we were on down below (next to the river)

From here several additional Cols or peaks can be reached, Villanova ostensibly only thirty minutes away, yeah if you take a short cut

More information from the Comune of Bobbio Pellice, next time we should do Bric Boucie at close to three thousand meters

Patti finishing up her hike in VIllanova

At the end, we both thought it was an amazing climb by all accounts. If you ever have the occasion to make the climb to the Rifugio Willi Jervis, I would suggest starting in the morning, especially if you are taking photographs, the morning sun is just perfect for such an undertaking. Oh, and buy a good pair of boots! I had purchased an ostensibly good pair of hiking boots from L.L. Bean in the States, only to have this happen the day before this hike on the Pista Bassa.

Trail Map

If you are interested in our trail map, see the image below. Or, while using standard and accepted security practices, feel free to download the PDF here.