Perhaps one of the best times to visit Turin is in the spring. The wind is still blowing from the north, the rivers are full, the trees are in bloom and the swallows and swifts are returning from their long winter stay in Africa. We live close to the river and found you do not need insecticide here, just a healthy population of these birds and you will rarely be bitten.
Springtime – River Po – Turin, Italy
A great time to walk the city and visit its many restaurants and cafes as well as the river Po and Valentino Park. On weekends and holidays there is always activity on the river.
Restaurants
For my readers, some secrets that will help you beat the tourist lines in Turin at the other places and make your stomach very happy.
Il Buongusto
One of our new favorites and right around the corner from our apartment at via Alfonso Bonafous is the local secret, Il Buongusto. Definitely not for tourists, in fact I would encourage only those seeking a Piedmontese experience to drop in. Everything is fresh and made in the kitchen, which is actually open to the restaurant.
IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Be patient, gastronomy takes time and preparation. If you want to be in and out, select something like a salad and water, or frankly go to a fast food place on via Po. Good food takes time and this little restaurant gets very busy. When all else fails, use your Grissini fishing rod to reel in your waitress or waiter for more drinks.
Erick with Fishing Pole Grissini Torinesi – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
The food is very good, the prices are reasonable and the wine list satisfactory, so you can always select a reasonably good wine to keep you busy while waiting. The local house selection includes Dolcetto, Nebbiolo, or Barolo by the glass, which suffice nicely.
Inside – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Kitchen – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Speaking of which, if you really love tomatoes, order the Bruschetta. For the price you get about seven large pieces of bread covered with garlic infused tomatoes and basil, with an olive oil drizzle. Yum.
Bruschetta – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Our food was cooked perfectly, the spaghetti sauce here is uncomplicated and delicious, the cook preferring the amazing Italian tomatoes to tell their own story. I love Italian pasta, um.
Agnolotti with Parmigiano – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Orecchiette with Sausage – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Lunch for (2) two: 30+ to 40+€
La Prosciutteria
On a lark and after a long walk through the Valentino Park and along the other side of the river, we tried La Prosciutteria on Piazza Vittorio Veneto and via Alfonso Bonafous.
Entrance – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
We ordered water, wine, a bruschetta and a charcuterie board. The bruschetta was good, the little olives they used were very tasty.
Bread, Bruschetta and Brunello – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
Charcuterie Board – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
Though I am not a meat eater by nature, the charcuterie here is quite good, especially the Tuscan cheese selections. I would suggest trying the cheeses first au natural, many are exceptional and have delicate flavors. Smearing the honey they provide I found masked their flavors, since none were blue cheeses and were not very strong. The honey by itself was delicious and would be great with a Roquefort, a Blue or similar cheese, but not much with the ones we were given.
Charcuterie Board – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
Back Wall – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
Esoteric Inside – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
In the end our bill was a bit on the high side, but not bad for a place on the Piazza Vittoria Veneto. Below is an example of what you can expect for two people. The two glasses of wine being the most expensive, similar to what you would find in the States now (it was never like this before, some prices are crazy, though I would say most glasses of local wines are frequently around 4-5€).
Il Konto (Our Bill) – La Prosciutteria – Turin – April 2023
Across from the Isola di San Giulio sits the town of Orta di San Giulio on a promontory jutting out into the lake towards it. It is mostly known for the hill above it, or Sacro Monte, which contains the World UNESCO site of Sacro Monte di Orta.
Omegna – Navigazione Lago d’Orta Servizio Pubblico di Linea – Photograph from afar
Last Treats Of Our Time On Lake Orta
We actually took the public ferry twice[1]It is actually called the Servizio di trasporto pubblico locale or Servizio Traghetti Orta to Orta San Giulio, in order to more fully explore what this little town had to offer. While there, we visited the Sacro Monte, the main street of town and many of the shops that are open along the way. After our short stay it was time to head back and enjoy what was left of Omegna before returning to Turin.
Orta San Giulio
A typical lake town on Lake Orta is San Giulio. As expected, most activity and the main square, is down by the water and along the shore of the lake. There are many cafes, bars and restaurants in Piazza Mario Motta, as well as some others sprinkled along the main street and in some alleys.
Orta San Giulio – Piazza Mario Motta
The main street, which changes its name almost every block, contains all of the shops in town. Here one can find anything from leather goods – made in Italy, to Piedmont agricultural goods and other local products.
San Giulio – Sculpture of San Francis of Assissi
San Giulio – Side Alley
San Giulio – Side Alley
San Giulio – Side Alley – No Head Room
San Giulio – Typical Restaurant or Enoteca Sign
San Giulio – Municipal Gardens
San Giulio – Municipal Gardens
San Giulio
San Giulio – Sign Painted on Wall
San Giulio – Main Street
Sacro Monte
There are two ways to walk the hill to Sacro Monte, one can either take a left or a right at the Church of Saint Mary of the Assumption on via Caire Albertoletti.
Orta San Giulio – Via Caire Albertoletti
Orta San Giulio – Via Caire Albertoletti – Toward Sacro Monte
Orta San Giulio – Via Caire Albertoletti to Via Palma
Orta San Giulio – The Town from Via Palma
Orta San Giulio – Overview from Via Palma
Orta San Giulio – Isola di San Giulio from Via Palma
Most people will take the right, it is much shorter and direct, but as we found out, may not be offered on some phone maps[2]I swiftly submitted an update on the missing road, as soon as I was able. If one takes the left, you will circumnavigate the hill and eventually bring you back around to where you can enter the Sacro Monte from the back parking lot entrance, about a 15-20 minute walk. Of course there is nothing wrong with this, it is just different and longer, but will get you to the same place.
Sacro Monte – Back Entrance Signs
Sacro Monte – Back Entrance Signs
Sacro Monte – Interlinking Paths to each Chapel
The Sacro Monte has numerous chapels which one can visit, each having its own purpose, according to Catholic religious sources. Of the twenty or so chapels and churches that comprise the site, we visited about a handful.
Sacro Monte – The Pozzo or Font
Sacro Monte – Chapel
Sacro Monte – Hand Directing Toward Church Eleven
Sacro Monte – Chapel Eleven
Sacro Monte – Chapel Eleven
Sacro Monte – Chapel Eleven
Sacro Monte – Main Entrance
Sacro Monte – Chapel Ten
Sacro Monte – Chapel Ten
Sacro Monte – Chapel Ten
Sacro Monte – Isola di San Giulio
Sacro Monte – Church of Saint Cyricus and the Cemetery
The Rest of Omegna
Our last couple of days in the town of Omegna were spent mostly relaxing. It rained one day, which really curtailed anything we could do, especially with respect to any hiking we had had in mind. However, we were able to venture out in the evening, after the rain had passed and enjoyed the evening mountain air.
Omegna – Via Giuseppe Mazzini
Omegna – Via Giuseppe Mazzini
Omegna – Side Street at Night
Omegna – Piazza XXIV April – Commune Building
Omegna – Nigoglia Stream at Night
Omegna – Lake at Night
Omegna – Lake at Night
As an afterthought we would have to say we thoroughly enjoyed our stay here; but must also honestly say, it’s not for everyone. Omegna is really laid back and probably accounts for the wild swings we saw in the number of tourists we saw day to day. The weekends are definitely busier, and all of the Italian holidays, so plan your trip accordingly. There is also a definite lack in the assortment of restaurants and we found it difficult to chose, after having been here for a week. It is also a haven for backpackers, so if you find them annoying, you might want to head elsewhere since they are pretty much everywhere enjoying the fine hiking that is available in the area.
Restaurants
Rosticceria Ruyi
The Chinese restaurant, Rosticceria Ruyi on via Giuseppe Mazzini, essentially saved us from culinary hell. After a week of Caprese, Pizza and Pasta, a well cook meal of rice and vegetables was sorely needed and this restaurant has the food at excellent prices (e.g. a dish of Cantonese Rice – 3€). However, be aware at the time of this writing, they open at 18:00 for take-away but were not serving sit down inside the restaurant until 20:15, or 8:15PM in the evening. So plan accordingly!
Visitors are free to come and enjoy the basilica, as well as the Walk of Solitude, though you will often hear few people adhering to the advice of all the signs on the path.
The Ferry Ride
An hour’s journey by ferry from Omegna will take you to the Island and other points of interest along the lake. You can purchase a day ticket for a little more than nine euros, or one-way and return-trip tickets for slightly less, depending on your itinerary.
Lake Orta – Omegna – Ferry Launch
The public ferry will make several stops along the way, before it reaches its final destination of Isle of San Giulio and the town of San Giulio itself. There are two main ferry routes, the green route – which goes the length of the lake twice daily, and the red route – which constantly goes to core destinations in the middle of the lake routinely during the day.
Lake Orta – Omegna – Ferry Launch
Lake Orta
Lake Orta – Ferry Ride to San Giulio
Lake Orta – Ferry Ride to San Giulio
Lake Orta – Ferry Ride to San Giulio
Lake Orta – Ferry Ride to San Giulio
Lake Orta – Ferry Ride to San Giulio- Isle of San Giulio
Lake Orta – Ferry Ride – Looking Toward Omegna
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Boat Launch View
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Boat Launch View
Lake Orta – Ferry Ride – Isle of San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Boat Launch View
Lake Orta – Boat Launch – Isle of San Giulio
The Island of San Giulio
There are only a few points of interest on the island. The basilica, the cafe, where one can get something to drink or a bite to eat when it’s lunchtime, and the Walk of Solitude.
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – From Ferry
Basilica of San Giulio
The basilica inside is replete with frescoes and other painting. and definitely worth a visit.
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Guilio
The slideshow below shows additional items you will see upon entering.
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Walk of Solitude
The walkway takes you completely around the island and requires about twenty or so minutes to complete, perhaps longer if you stop at the cafe or for photographs.
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Patti on the Walk of Silence
So, if you are looking to unwind and have a nice quiet walk in a very unique place, this island might be something for you to do if in the area. The only advice we can offer is to go early, that is, if you want maximum quiet and beat the other tourists before they crowd the beaten path. Enjoy!
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Monastery Tower
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Well
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Walk of Silence
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Boat Launch View
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Boat Launch View
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Boat Launch View
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Walk of Silence
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Interesting Gate
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Walk of Silence
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Walk of Silence
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Walk of Silence
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Walk of Silence – Nun Hand Knockers
Hidden quietly in the north of Italy is the small lake of Orta and the lazy town of Omegna. After two trains and a bus ride, we finally arrived at our new short trip destination. We checked into our three star hotel, the Croce Bianci, perhaps the best centrally located one in the town.
Orta Lake – Panorama from Omegna Shoreline
Because of its small size and lack of glamour, Lake Orta is often overlooked by most overseas travelers, who are more interested in the high impact tourist destinations to check off their bucket lists. It is visited mostly by Italians from Milan, some of whom own weekend homes here, the French, Germans and the occasional Brit. Since there is really not much to see and do on this side of the lake, a short slideshow is perhaps more in order.
Omegna – Nigoglia Square
Omegna – Lake Orta by the bridge
Omegna – The Hotel Croce Bianca (red building)
Omegna – The Strona
Omegna – Caduti Monument
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Caduti Monument and Hotel Croce Bianci – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Caduti Monument
Omegna – Lake Orta
Omegna – Lake Orta
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci – Lake Orta
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci – Lake Orta
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci – Flowers
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Lake Orta at night
Omegna – Lake Orta
Omegna – Ristorante Punti Di Vista
We made plans to visit Omegna just to relax and actually do nothing more than just check the lake out. This is definitely a good place to accomplish nothing. However, there are plenty of activities available, from camping, boating, cycling, swimming, hiking and the odd trek to a neighboring town, if one is so inclined. The area is definitely family friendly, even the town has a large and very well equipped playground for them.
The remainder of our trip will visit other parts of the lake and be continued in another entry, so stay tuned. Ciao for now…
Restaurants
Salera 16
A more hip and trendy place is the Salera 16, which caters to the younger crowd with burgers, fries and other handheld items. A good place to stop for something quick.
Omegna – Estiva: Fruit Salad with Prosciutto, Mozarella and Pesto – Salera 16
Omegna – Caesar Salad with Chicken and shaved Parmesan – Salera 16
Al Centrale Bistrot
This little bistrot has excellent food at great prices, though the menu is limited and changes daily. If you are not fussy and adaptable you definitely find a tasty treat here. Their wines by the glass are very good.
Omegna – Pasta Bolognese and Insalata Mista – Al Centrale Bistrot
Omegna – Ravioli with Pesto – Al Centrale Bistrot
Ristorante Il Cavalieri
The first restaurant we visited when we arrived, it offers traditional Italian fare and pizza. It behaves more like a trattoria and gets a lot of local traffic. So an excellent place for reasonably priced authentic Italian food. I found the Vino Sfuso, or bulk house wine, a bit of a disappointment, but it is still drinkable and reasonably priced.
Omegna – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria
Omegna – Ravioli and side salad – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria
Omegna – Chicken Cutlet Milano Style with Fries – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria
Omegna – Tartufo – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria
Ristorante Punti D’Vista
A ten minute walk along the Lungolago Gramsci of Omegna on the west bank will bring you to this hotel and restaurant. Set slightly uphill from the road it has a commanding view of the lake and plenty of outside seating. Reservations are recommended though, as the patio seating fills up quite fast.
Omegna – Ristorante Punti Di Vista
Omegna – Rigatoni with olive oil, tomatoes and fried vegetables – Ristorante Punti Di Vista
Omegna – Cheese Cake with currants, Coffee and Sambuca – Ristorante Punti Di Vista
Surrounded on the three sides, by what are generally called the Hills of Piedmont (for which Superga Hill is one), sits the town of Chieri. A town that goes back to ancient times, due to the richness of the area and the Po river valley.
Chieri – Overlook from the Church of Sant Giorgio – Looking west toward Pino Torinese
From Turin it is easy to get to Chieri. One can either take a bus or take the Sfm1 train from Porta Susa, which runs about every thirty minutes, it is about a thirty minute ride to Chieri and the last stop for this train.
Chieri – Patti at the Tandem Bar on Vittorio Emanuele II
The main pedestrian way, via Vittorio Emanuele II, is a short walk from the train station and has numerous cafes and bars, here you can purchase a coffee or other drink, before you explore this quaint little town.
Town Of A Hundred Towers
During the early middle ages, the town once had numerous towers, especially built into the town wall, which were erected (like in many other towns in Italy) as defensive structures. Most of these were destroyed by Frederick Barbarossa’s army when they laid waste to the town in 1154. However, a few still remain, one of which can be seen below.
Chieri – Overlook from the Church of Sant Giorgio – Looking south and one of the remaining towers
Chieri – Overlook from the Church of Sant Giorgio – Looking southeast
Church of Sant Giorgio
This is the highest point and from here you can get a commanding view of the town, as seen in the two photographs above and the beginning photograph.
Chieri – Church of Sant Giorgio on the hill
Chieri – Church of Sant Giorgio tunnel to overlook
Other than that, there’s not much else to do in Chieri, except perhaps amble through its quiet streets and perhaps do some shopping. Here is a short slide show of some of the other things you can see while here.
Chieri – Tiny Side Street
Chieri – via Vittorio Emanuele II and the Arco Trionfale
Chieri – Church Don Bosco
Chieri – Piazza Mazzini and the Church of Sant Guglielmo
Chieri – Belltower from pathway below the Church of Sant Giorgio
Chieri – Arco Trionfale di Chieri – from Piazza Umberto
Chieri – Torre campanaria del Duomo di Chieri
Chieri – pedestrian way Vittorio Emanuele II
Chieri – small alleyway
Chieri – Piazza Cavour and the Church Ss Nomini Iesi Ac Sanctis Bernardino Et Rocho
Restaurants
With limited time we were only able to visit one restaurant while here, though several that came up on our search were not open until the evening. However, you will find the choice below to be exceptionally good, if and when you have the chance to visit this charming little town in Piedmont.
Trattoria della Erbe
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe
This trattoria sits on the corner of the Piazza Umberto I and via San Domenico, is fairly non-descript, but the food is authentic Sardinian and quite good.
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Caponata Siciliana
The menu changes daily and is posted on both a board outside and on the window next to the entrance. The menu is restrictive, as for most small establishments like this one, but everything we ordered was quite tasty and delicious. We started with some antipasti, a Caponata Siciliana, served with eggplant, onion, peppers, green olives and other goodies, not hot, but just warmed a bit. A slight tinge of vinegar mixed with the tomato based sauce was just right to get the taste buds to pucker for more. Our mains, or primis, came out a short time after and included the Levantine di Mare for Patti and for me, the Ravioli Sardi. Both were delicious and portioned correctly, just enough to leave a little room for dessert!
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Levantina di Mare
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Ravioli Sardi
The dessert was actually unexpectedly delicious and savory. A Sardinian Seada or Seadas, that can only be explained as a kind of dough pocket filled with assorted cheese, heated and served with honey. The sweetness of the honey and the saltiness of the cheese make for an unexpectedly tasty treat.
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Seada or Seadas
Top that off later with a caffè and Sambuca (to make caffè corretto of course) and you have the culmination of the great lunch.
All in all, Chieri makes a great day trip, if only just to walk around and soak up its quiet stillness, after being in Turin for a few weeks. If only to experience some great Sardinian food at this trattoria!
We have been back in Turin for about a week and had to start knocking restaurants off of our list, at least those that we always wanted to visit. After our recent trip to Greece, we decided we had had enough of eating in and it was time to start eating out again. The following are a few special ones we feel we should mention.
Disclaimer: If you are coming from the US, please keep in mind portion sizes in Italy and perhaps most of Europe for that matter, are not like in the States. In Italy there is always Antipasti, a Primi and then a Secondi for those who need more.
La Piola di Alfredo
When in Piedmont and especially Turin, if you see the word Piola in the name of a restaurant, you are more than likely going to experience some really good local food. You may think of the word Piola synonymous with Trattoria.
La Piola di Alfredo – Turin
The restaurant itself is quietly unassuming and nondescript. The owners and help speak no English, so it is best if you learn at least a little Italian (or your favorite translation application, good luck), or at the very minimum point to what you want.
Pollo Carpione with Vinegar Onions and Tomato Salad
Agnolotti alla Ragu
My wife an I were just interested in something to drink and a simple lunch. Though the bottled Nebbiolo wine by the glass ran about €5/glass and was very good, the cheaper alternative was the Vino Sfuso, or house bulk wine, which can be purchased for €2/glass or €10/Liter and is probably very good (I will make a point of it to try it next time).
Nuovo Zhen Bao Chinese Restaurant
We have written about Nuovo Zhen Bao before and it has become one of our go-to places for Chinese food. We have tried other Chinese restaurants throughout Turin, but none have come close to the delicious salads (especially the dressing on the Insalata Cinese), spring rolls and main courses as does this restaurant. The service is usually first rate and they normally have plenty of help on hand.
They have both outside and inside dining, as well as an excellent lunch (Pranzo) menu for only €10, which includes a bottle of water, appetizer, first and second courses.
Vietnamese Rolls
Chinese Salad
Vegetables Rice
Pork with Onions
Chicken with Potatoes
My Missing Tiramisu
Stimonio
A bistro that serves naturally and bio friendly items from its menu. They have several items, such as sweet and vegan pancakes, as well as other bio- and earth-friendly choices.
Stimonio Bistro
We chose the tuna salad, so they are not exclusively vegan. I had preferred a more complete Piemontese menu, but they do offer a plethora of smoothies and other health friendly items from which to chose. They do not have a house wine or bulk wine (vino sfuso), so wine by the glass can be a bit expensive for Italy at €5/glass (I normally wouldn’t mind, but for that price it isn’t that good).
Ristorante L’Agrofoglio
Much to our dismay, we must announce the closure of the L’Agrofoglio Ristorante and Piola. We had reported on their very good menu and excellent wine cellar, only to be saddened by their closure when we arrived back in Turin early this year. A major loss, I will never forget the unbelievable Barolo that we enjoyed there during our Sunday lunch in July of 2021. A wine, I subsequently tried to order a few months later, only to be told it was no longer available. I lamented of course. (We tried the 2013, which sadly, wasn’t quite the same).
A short drive, just outside Torre Pellice, is the small commune of Angrogna. Situated high up on the hill. Overlooking Torre Pellice, Angrogna commands a very nice view of the valley floor and hides a local secret in the form of a tiny underground chapel by a mostly unknown religious sect.
The Waldensians
The Waldensians were and are a pre-reformation sect that was extremely persecuted by the Roman Catholic Church as heretical. Therefore, they had to take their religious practices in many places underground, in order to escape discrimination, capture, torture and in many cases death. In Angrogna you will find one such hide out, a small cave on a mountainside used as a chapel. Here members would secretly meet in order to carry out their many religious practices without the notice of the church or local onlookers.
The Geology Close To The Waldensian Chapel – Craggy And Full Of Boulders
The Waldensian Chapel
The cave is a poor collection of boulders left by the ice age that apparently produced a cave structure suitable enough for such practices. It is difficult to find, if they were not signs and an entrance stairway to its opening. Even then, the entrance is wet, a very tight fit for most present individuals, and thus requires a degree climbing to actually reach the inner chamber.
Direction To The Waldensian Chapel – Ghieisa D’La Tana
Trail Sign To The Waldensian Chapel
Modern Sign For The Waldensian Church
Entrance To The Waldensian Chapel
Sam, Our Host, Walking Down The Stairs To The Waldensian Chapel
The Waldensian Chapel Entrance
The Waldensian Chapel Inner Cave From Entrance
The Waldensian Chapel – Light From Above
The Waldensian Chapel – The Chapel Altar Lit By A Sunbeam
The Waldensian Chapel – Chapel Altar And Inside – Using A Flash
The Waldensian Chapel – The Altar – Using A Flash
The inner chamber is a small, wet and very dark room about five by ten meters. It includes a small makeshift altar, but nothing else. In its day, it must have been something to experience during a mass.
The School Of Odin-Bertot
Very close by and less than a few hundred meter walk from the hidden chapel, is the School of Odin-Bertot.
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot – Outside View of the School Room Entrance
Reminiscent of one room school houses in many other rural areas, this one specifically served the mountain people of the area. Since the above link explains all, a few more photographs of the interior and the museum are all that’s in order at this point.
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot – School House Room
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot – Another View Of The School House Room
How To Get There
There are several ways to get there, either via the School of Odin, or by the parking area further away. Since maps are worth a thousands words, here are two that you will find once there, but they also show the overall area so you can use this with what ever map, app or device you have to cross reference your way there.
Map For The Waldensian Church And School Of Odin
Local Map Of Historic Sites
Directions
Between Torre Pellice and Luserna San Giovanni you should find road 161. At the traffic circle, take the road towards Angrogna. You should also see signs for the Guieiza d’la Tana, the Chabas and the Vaccera. Keep following road to the main town square, then continue for about two kilometers and you will arrive in the hamlet of Serre. Turn right, you should see the beginning of the path and the signs “Chanforan” and “Odin”. Walk the path, following the sign for Ghieisa D’La Tana. You will eventually come to a wooden railing with the words Entrata on it, walk down the steps, you have arrived at the temple.
An easy day hike from Villanova in Val Pellice, or the Pellice River Valley, later to become the Torrente Pellice, is the destination of the Refuge of Willi Jervis, known locally as Rifugio Jervis. The Pellice is actually formed on the western flank of Mount Grenaro, which would be down the valley pictured below and to the left.
View near the Rifugio Jervia at 1740 meters (about 5710 feet) by the Torrente Pellice
The Hike
Though the hike should have only taken us a hour and fifteen minutes up and the same back, it took us approximately three and a half hours. Some of this was taken up by stopping for photographs and the occasional drink (it is important to stay hydrated, especially when it gets warm, plus at altitude the body loses more moisture, so be careful). This of course cannot be helped when faced with a new experience and such beauty.
Starting Point Villanova
The drive from Malpertus to Villanova took all of ten minutes on the windy roads of the Conca Cialancia Natural Park , which includes the Val Pellice and the surrounding mountains. Our hosts, Sam and Lisa Chiodo at Renovating Italy at Borgata Malpertus, are amazing and were kind enough to give us a ride and later pick us up at the start of the trail in Villanova. If you are looking for a home base in the area, look them up, they are both great.
Commune hiking signs in Villanova, at the start of your trek
Sign at Villanova, showing routes and some history
Trail signs showing other trails and directions in Villanova
Looking closely at the wooden signs above, our destination is the last item on the left hand side, Rif. Willi Jervis. It estimates the average hike time as one hour and fifteen minutes, but it took us considerably more, since we were always stopping to take photographs, or just to admire the views.
We took the Mulattiera which is difficult enough
Though we actually took the Mulattiera, or mule path, we went down the Sentiero to see the waterfall. The more difficult Sentiero, or pathway, which goes over boulders can be taken, but we thought the mule trail would be difficult enough and our host Sam agreed. So we walked down to the Cascata di Villanova, a waterfall not far from our starting point, to get a short video and walked back up to start our hike.
The Hike Started Smooth Enough
Once you start the climb, it goes up and down for quite a bit until it’s all uphill. There are several places where you have to take care and be very attentive, especially in the beginning and end, but the views and experience are well worth the effort. Unlike other climbs above the timber-line or through a forest, the Torrente Pellice provides both the white-noise to block every crazy little thought you might be having, as well as the solitude that anyone can use to reach a true calm in one’s life. But I imagine there are still those that walk as fast as they can just to get from point to point, and we actually saw a few.
The trail at this point is rather quiet and not very torrential, but further up its character changes drastically. So we started, following a small road until we hit the actually trailhead.
Waterfall, you will see more of these, that’s why they call it Torrente and not Val anymore
The water is clear blue, pristine and full of trout
The hiking starts out smooth on a rather level roadway
What started out as one hour fifteen minutes, is now one hour thirty, huh?
Il prato montagna, or the mountain meadow
The beautiful flowers of the mountain meadows
Patti on the bridge
More beautiful flowers of the mountain meadows
We are headed up there, see that other waterfall?
The trail narrows and more flowers of the mountain meadows
And that waterfall we saw from can be heard from where we were standing.
The Start Of The Actual Hiking Trail
The trail is actually paved with heavy stones most of the way and starts down, instead of up. However, that does not last long.
No more roadway, onto the trail
Patti sitting in front of our first of many cliffs on the stone covered hiking trail
If it weren’t for the absolutely gorgeous weather, we might have reconsidered our decision. The rocks that pave this trail are very slippery and well worn and are most likely very hazardous when wet. However, we remained steadfast and undeterred and pushed on, even with the frequent stops for photographs.
A look down the Torrente Pellice
That waterfall is getting closer
Wide angle view of the trail and the valley below
Looking towards Villanova, which is getting smaller
Patti on our boulder trail and the beautiful Italian Cottian Alps
The Torrente Pellice
The higher Cottian Alps in the distance
Rock climbers on rock face, notice yellow dot just above the green to the right
Another spectacular waterfall
Boulders, boulders everywhere!
Val Pellice
Val Pellice and the High Cottian Alps in the distance
The black salamander is protected here, be careful
We also frequently stopped for a few videos too, just to record the noise of the water moving, which at times was thunderous.
Amazing Waterfalls
We passed several places where water was coming in from other tributaries, mostly in the form of these beautiful waterfalls.
Patti at the Cascata del Pis
Erick at Cascata del Pis
And the actually hear the real thing, a short video.
From Here – UP, UP, UP
After all that water, the trail kicked up rather steeply. Not that it was a problem, but you did have to watch your footing. Some people hiked with poles, which is definitely a good option, but I find them noisy and annoying and prefer listening to the wind, water and any birds I can hear.
Hiking got a bit technical at times
The access road trail again and easier hiking for a time
Trail comes out occasionally on an access road
Only to be back on the trail soon enough
This boulder is larger than many houses
A bell shaped flower of the high alps
The trail became more challenging the closer we got the to the top
Trout, birds and the insects they eat
Cresting The Trail
Just as we were about to finish our climb, we ran into a class of young rock climbers and their teachers. Speaking several languages and very close to the Italian-France border, they were obviously making a day of it. They all had brought a backpack with them and those who were not climbing were running around like mountain goats.
A class of rock climbers, speaking French, Italian, Spanish and some German
The trail was actually pretty steep right were all the climbers were, so we had to take our time to move through them as they were belaying.
The steepness of the trail demanded a lot of switchbacks
It got pretty cool up there, some clouds started to roll in
Patti on the same rock with the Val Pellice behind her
Erick on the trail with the Val Pellice behind him
After a few photographs, I actually turned around to take a short video of the climbers, since some of them seemed quite adventurous and adept at the skill.
Rifugio Willi Jervis
The upper alpine valley where the refuge is, was a big change from following the river all day. There are marmots, birds and the sound of insects everywhere, but then again, it was a beautiful spring morning.
Finally reached the upper valley floor by the Refuge, trail signs
More trail signs
The upper Val Pellice, looking toward Lago Lungo and the cloud shrouded Pic Traverse
Mont Manzol to the left with Mount Granero peeking out from behind it
Rifugio Willi Jervis from a distance
Nice panorama of the valley floor and mountains
Rifugio Willi Jervis from a distance
Rifugio Willi Jervis up close
Inside Rifugio Willi Jervis, the bar is downstairs, but it was closed, no caffe for us
Descending
On the way down we took a slightly different route, keeping to the access road more, mostly due to the threat of bad weather. It appeared there were several thunderstorms possibly brewing. So, not wanting to be cold and wet on a trail in the high alps, we decided to descend early and quickly, instead of waiting for pranzo at the refuge, which probably started at twelve noon sharp.
Starting our way down
Taking a slightly different route, you can see the hiking trail we were on down below (next to the river)
From here several additional Cols or peaks can be reached, Villanova ostensibly only thirty minutes away, yeah if you take a short cut
Coming down a different perspective
More information from the Comune of Bobbio Pellice, next time we should do Bric Boucie at close to three thousand meters
Patti finishing up her hike in VIllanova
Villanova, we made it
At the end, we both thought it was an amazing climb by all accounts. If you ever have the occasion to make the climb to the Rifugio Willi Jervis, I would suggest starting in the morning, especially if you are taking photographs, the morning sun is just perfect for such an undertaking. Oh, and buy a good pair of boots! I had purchased an ostensibly good pair of hiking boots from L.L. Bean in the States, only to have this happen the day before this hike on the Pista Bassa.
LL Bean Hiking Boot Failure
Trail Map
If you are interested in our trail map, see the image below. Or, while using standard and accepted security practices, feel free to download the PDF here.
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Beautiful Overlook – Another Panorama
This is just a quick post to document our first local hike from Malpertus to the closest town, Bobbio Pellice. As already mentioned in a previous post, there is a number of trails around that you can hike. The one we chose to go into town, is the same one that goes across Napolean’s Bridge just outside our Borgata and is called the Pista Bassa.
Once over the bridge the trail ascends quickly and then flattens out and appears to be used often by local farmers, since there are clear signs of tractor use. Since I want to keep this short, here are a few slide shows for the points of interest.
The Pista Bassa Hike
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Napolean’s Bridge
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Napolean’s Bridge – circa 1640 and other dates
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Napolean’s Bridge – more dates
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Napolean’s Bridge – even more dates
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Our Host Sam out front
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Terrace
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Old Terraces
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Borgata’s Main Water Source
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – An old barn in disrepair
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Patti and Lisa behind us talking
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Deviation to the Pista Ulta
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Our host’s son Luca
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Our hosts Sam and his son Luca
Flowers of the Pista Bassa
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – The Flowers
Flowers of the Pista Bassa
Flowers of the Pista Bassa
Flowers of the Pista Bassa
Flowers of the Pista Bassa
Flowers of the Pista Bassa
Flowers of the Pista Bassa – Star of David
Restaurants
Trattoria del Centro
Trattoria del Centro – Local Case Linga
After our short hike, it was time for lunch and some refreshment. Our local host Sam quickly introduced us to the owner of the Trattoria del Centro, where we were able to order local home cooked food at a very reasonable price.
Trattoria del Centro – Local Case Linga
Trattoria del Centro – Local Case Linga
Trattoria del Centro – Local Case Linga – Appetizer
Trattoria del Centro – Local Case Linga – Spaghetti alla Ragu
Trattoria del Centro – Local Case Linga – Creamy Panna Cota, Coffee and Sambuca
After our meal, which included wine, water, appetizer and pasta for both of us; then I order dessert, coffee and sambuca; and the entire bill came to 30€. I will also include that the Panna Cotta had the most delicate and creamy texture that I have yet had in Italy.
Leaving Bobbio Pellice – Pellice River
We returned to the Borgata the same way we came, which helped us discover a few more visual treats, especially a small outcropping with terrific views.
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Beautiful Overlook
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Beautiful Overlook
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Beautiful Overlook
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Overlook of mountains
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Patti in field along the trail
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Beautiful Overlook
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Beautiful Overlook
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Beautiful Overlook
And a short video of Patti hiking the trail.
So that concluded our day hike from Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice, complete with Pranzo (that’s Italian for lunch). We found this a great short hike, with some points of interest along the way. So, if you are ever in the area, you should give it a try and enjoy the cool mountain air and beautiful surroundings. Ciao for now!
Trail Map
If you are interested in our trail map, see the image below. Or, while using standard and accepted security practices, feel free to download the PDF here.
Malpertus to BobbioPelice PistaBassa TrailMap, including Napolean’s Bridge
Festival T-Shirt – La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
This weekend turned out to be extra special, in that a special festival occurred in the valley known as the “La Fira ‘d la Pouià“, or the fair for the transfer of livestock to their seasonal feeding grounds, also known as transhumance.
Crowd Gathering – La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
Anxious Crowd Awaits – La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
Crowd Gathering – La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
The small town of Bobbio Pellice hosts this event twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall. Participation by any farm family is voluntary, but many do so, since they have representative booths within the festival grounds. This provides them an opportunity to sell products they make during the year from their farms and animals, like meat, cheeses and other delicacies.
Marching Band Arriving – La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
It starts with a small marching band that processes up the main street, announcing the arrival of the animals.
Then the children lead a procession down the street, after which one can begin to hear the sound of cow bells.
They remain in the town square for some time playing music until all of the animals, along with their families, have passed.
Cows Arriving – La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
The animals are outfitted with celebration bells, many containing award ribbons that each animal may have won during past fairs, or just fitted with a simpler bell fitting for the occasion.
After they are pastured nearby and judged, these are replaced by smaller and more utilitarian bells which will be worn for the rest of the trip and while they are in their mountain pastures for the summer.
Cows Sporting Their Bells – La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
When the animals finally come, the parade starts with the larger animals, the cows and later quietly proceeds down to the smaller ones, when the sheep and the goats arrive.
The sheep are customarily under the vigilant eye of a number of dogs, which are trained to watch over them day and night. These animals are not aggressive, but they are very territorial and it is wise to stay away from them and the flock they guard. Rumors have it, they are known to have even killed humans who trespass.
Clouds over Bobbio Pellice
If you are looking for that kind of one off experience and a lover of animals, a trip to Bobbio Pellice to watch this festival is definitely worth it. Many are day trippers who drive to the town, but parking space is extremely limited, so get there early. Since the area offers amazing hiking opportunities, we preferred the slow travel approach and took the train to Pinerolo, then transferred to our Bed and Breadfast here for the week. A short walk down the street would have brought us here, but instead our hosts were going to attend and kindly offered us a lift, which we gladly obliged.
