Gdańsk, Poland – Hanseatic Harbor

With a choice between visiting Warsaw or Gdańsk, we chose Gdańsk because it had more historical meaning and promised a quainter historic center. Moreover, since we were doing a south to north kind of trip, it was the last stop on our itinerary, so smaller is usually less complicated and less demanding.

Gdańsk

Formerly known as Danzig, Gdańsk is a seaside city on the Baltic coast of Poland. Though the old city lies in the delta of the Motlawa River, it is still some five kilometers from the sea. It has switched back and forth from Polish rules, German, Russian and as a free-state. In the middle ages, it was once part of the Haneastic League and was a major trading partner in that confederation.

Getting There

From Wrocław, Gdańsk is over a four hour train trip using the InterCity train system. Though the InterCity trains do not stop too often, there is still considerable distance between the two cities and even with an automobile it is a long drive. We were fortunate enough to have a very talkative couple that were Canadian-Polish dual citizens and have a very nice chat with them along the way, which thankfully seemed to have made the trip go faster.

Motlawa River

Along the Motlawa River on both sides are rows of buildings. Many were old warehouses, shops, fish mongers and other establishments, when the city was an active seaport. Today it is mostly restaurants, shops and hotels.

Old Port Crane

One of the major attactions is the Old Port Crane, also known as the Gdańsk Crane, actually has an unknown origin. Though ostensibly built to convey things from ships portside into the city over the surrounding wall its actual purpose remains a mystery. It burnt down once and was restored, only to be partially destroyed during the end of World War II and rebuilt in the 1960s as a historical piece and museum.

Długa Street

Also known as Long Lane, or Langgasse, Długa Street is where you will find many of the notable houses that adorn the old town, as well as the Town Hall and Neptune’s Fountain.

It is bounded by the Green Gate on the end by the river, and the Golden Gate, which is near the former main entrance to the town, including its barbican and Highland Gate.

Mariacka Street

Parallel to Long Lane is Mariacka Street, an unusual sort of street due to its narrowness and odd balustrades on the stoops of each of the houses that line the street.

Each balustrade was made unique so that the owner could identify his building when the river overflowed it’s banks. Most of the houses here are also quaintly decorated, though many have fallen into disrepair over the years.

Raduni Canal

Another interesting place to visit is the area around the Raduni Canal. This is located on the other side of the basilica and Roman Keller.

Gates And More Gates

There are many gates in the old town, however most of the surviving ones still face the river.

The Highland and Golden Gates are on the land side of the city and were connected to a great wall that surrounded it at one time. Here you will find one of the walls two barbicans attached to the Torture Gate or house. This gate doubled as a prison and became known for tortures that were carried out in its cellars.

Churches And Cathedrals

Saint Mary’s Basilica

Situated almost in the center of town and on one end of Mariacka Street is Saint Mary’s Basilica. A brick gothic cathedral from the fourteenth century that has a working clock on its left side above the apse’s rear window which still appeared to maintain good time.

The church has an amazing organ and stained glass window in its transept. Though it is evident by the used mobile organ, the installed older one may no longer be in working order.

The church has a very interesting working astronomical clock and calendar along the interior left apse. According to records it not only computes most astronomical seasonal events, but also liturgical events and their timing.

Lastly, this basilica is rather plain and therefore many of the epitaphs and memorials stick out prominently. Most have German inscriptions on them, owing to the city rich heritage, though many are also written in Latin.

Restaurants

Yang Guang Chinese Restaurant

If you go through the Green Gate and cross the bridge then walk a few steps down Stągiewna Street you will find Yang Guang Chinese Restaurant on your right. If you are tired of all the meat, potatoes and dumplings you have been eating up until now, this is a very good stop for some vegetables. The even have broccoli in garlic sauce, one of our favorites.

Sempre Ristorante

The Sempre Ristorante is near the tip of the small island on the other side of the river. It is a modern Italian restaurant that serves good food with an upscale slant on the recipes and the prices. You won’t go wrong eating here, but you will also pay for it, if you know what I mean.

Tygle Restaurant

A highly rated restaurant with excellent Polish food is Tygle. Here you will find some classics as well as some new takes on Polish cuisine. If you are a chocolate lover, the urchin dessert is a must try. But be careful, those spikes are dark chocolate and will cause real damage to your diet.

Wrocław, Poland – City Of Gnomes

Aside from its old Germanic name of Breslau and its temporary occupation by the Soviets, Wrocław looks and feels completely Polish today. Though not as pretty or well kept as its southern cousin Kraków, it is still a nice city to visit for a few days.

Wrocław

Situated on the river Oder, Wrocław is today an odd mix of old, new and unfinished. We were actually quite surprised at how often we came up parcels in the city that were either unimproved or totally abandoned. That coupled with the weather, which for us turned rainy, made for a lasting impression of it being a dreary place if it so wished.

Fortunately we had enough good weather, however changeable it was, to tour the entire city and enjoy it. We especially enjoyed the area around the Wrocław Cathedral and would commend you visit there if you have a half day to spare.

Getting There

The easiest way to get to Wrocław from Kraków is either by car, bus or train. Since we try to use trains when we can, we took the inter-city train which took about there and a half hours to travel the distance.

Gnomes Everywhere

In fact, there are over a thousand of these little bronze statues placed throughout the city. It is a great idea, the children love them and families can actually purchase or download and print off a map with the location of all of them. Finding them, of course, is still the tricky part, since it is not always obvious where they are exactly.

Rynek Square

The main square in town is the Rynek. It is rather large but contains a number of buildings, as well as the town hall, in a misaligned fashion within the square or plaza itself. It is full a gnomes, so be careful to look while you walk, or you may miss one.

Solny Square

Solny Square or plaza lies corner to corner with Rynek, since the are adjoined to one another on one of the vertices. Here you will find a small flower market which appears to be open every day. Again there are plenty of gnomes to find here, as well as some interesting monuments and sculptures.

Oder River

A portion of the Oder cuts through the city and bisects it. Here you can find a river cruise or tour, as well as magnifacent parks to stretch your legs. There are also plenty of museums in there area. One of particular note and worth a visit is the Panoramic Museum.

Panorama Racławice Museum

The museum provides a panorama of the Battle of Racławice which occurred in 1794 against the Russians. A branch of the National Museum in Wrocław, the museum is housed in a rotunda with a 360 degree canvas, as well as additional dioramatic accessory in the foreground, to give the visitor the feeling of what it might have been like during the battle.

It is a guided tour and language modules are provided so that everyone can enjoy the story of the battle as they move around the theater.

Church And Cathedrals

In this city you will find less churches, they are not as abundant as in Kraków. However, the ones you can visit and just as beautiful.

Wrocław Cathedral

Located across the Oder via the Sand and Tumski bridges, the Wrocław Cathedral has beautiful stained glass windows inside. They only adorn one side, since the windows on the other side are obfuscated by an adjoining structure, which in and of itself I found very odd.

Cathedral Saint Mary Magdelena

The Cathedral Saint Mary Magdelena is the one church where we paid for entrance, so that we could ascend the tower and view the city from the Penitent Bridge.

Restaurants

In Wrocław we decided to scale back on the amount of Polish food we would consume, since it is very rich and calory laden.

Konspira

The exception to the above remark was Konspira. A highly rated restaurant on Polish cusine and an interesting theme, the fight against the Soviets and communism.

The traditional Chicken Broth soup was amazingly light and delicious. I can also commend the ribs with horseradish, they were very tasty.

Wiatr Chinese Restaurant

A break away from the traditional food here, we chose to eat Chinese for lunch. The food here is very good and less filling, it is also a bit lighter on your wallet. We found it a good choice for food and speedy service.

Kraków, Poland – Part Three

Our final day in Kraków was seeing some interesting things we didn’t get a chance to see yet. Luckily the weather improved and we had excellent conditions, since the weather in Poland can be somewhat unpredictable.

Kraków

A medium sized city that is very well planned and maintained. Whoever is running the town is doing an excellent job, from the university integration, the city park that almost surrounds the town, its cleanliness, to all of the museums and attractions that are available to visitors. It has become one of our favorite places to visit.

Wawel Royal Castle

A large complex to the south of town that forms that last part of the park that surrounds the city. The Wawel Royal Castle is perched on a small hill, Wawel Hill, that has a commanding view of the Vistula River and the surrounding countryside.

The castle has a multitude of museums and attractions to see inside and any visitor may purchase entry to any of them either à la carte, or by pre-priced packages. For our visit we chose the à la carte method, since we only wanted to see the Second Floor Museum, the Danish Tower Museum and the Dragon’s Den.

Second Floor Museum

Unlike the First Floor Museum, this museum has artwork, tapestries and other artifacts of artistic worth.

Even the rooms are of some interest. The rather large Senators Room being clad in a treated gilded leather.

Ottoman Tent Exhibit

At the end of the Second Floor Museum was a fascinating exhibit on tents from the Ottoman Dynasty. Most of these were captured during the battles with them during the First World War and used by the counterparts during those campaigns.

Danish Tower Museum

Here you can learn a little more of the types of wares that were made and traded in the area. From childrens clay toys to pipes, the bottom parts of the tower holds a museum full of old crafts.

Then after you are done enjoying all the exhibits the tower offers a nice view of the Vistula, the rest of the castle and surrounding area.

Dragon’s Den

A must stop for kids and others interested in the myth and legend of the dragon of Wawel Castle, the Dragon’s Den cave offers a cooling respite along with some fun.

There is even a media representation of Smok Wawelski lurking within the cave, which should motivate most young visitors to leave.

Town Hall Tower

The Town Hall Tower off on one corner of the great plaza in town is also open to scale for a price. There are two or three floors seperated by very narrow stairs that must be negotiated with people going in both directions.

However, aside from the few exhibits that are contained on each floor, the top is not open and you must take photographs through plexi-glass. I found the most interesting thing there to be the clock mechanism.

Churches And Cathedrals

Saint Mary’s Basilica

Unfortunately for us we visited on Sunday, so mass was being held and we had limited access to Saint Mary’s Basilica. Though the nave was somewhat interesting, it was clearly not the most beautiful nor the most interesting Catholic church we have visited in Poland.

muWi Stained Glass Museum

For those that have extra time on their hands, the muWi Stained Glass Museum is a great way to spend an hour. Here you will learn how this old establishment designs, cuts, paints, arranges and solders together amazing stained glass windows.

There is also a great history lesson regarding some of the designers and accomplished artists who have worked here as well. The second part of the tour takes you upstairs where the works are given their finishing touches and fired each night.

Finally, there are displays of work that have either been refound in the cellar, or recreated from old designs. All of these were from two of their most famous designers and stained glass makers.

Restaurants

One last thought on restaurants in Kraków and Poland in general. At this writing we consider them just as exspensive as in the States. Yes, there are certainly some places you can go and things you can order to minimize your food exspenses, but you can do that in the States as well. One additional comment, few restaurants allow or enable their guests to add a tip to the check. So, if you want to leave one, you should have cash on you. In most cases, since we are coming from Italy where it is not done except in tourist areas, we don’t leave one, though that is probably not the generally accepted behavior.

Gospoda Koko

This restaurant was a surprise find. Gospoda Koka is a rather off-beat establishment that actually had good food and service that we thoroughly enjoyed for lunch. They have very good soups and their Polish Cabbage Side Salad for only 7 Zloty(under $2) is highly recommended.

Morskie Oko

Another visit to Morskie Oko for lunch this time gave us the opportunity to try other fare. Patti tried the Stuffed Cabbage while I ordered the Pork Shank with Potatoes.

Nasza Rzeka Bar

A converted boat on the Vistula, the Nasza Rzeka Bar is an excellent choice for a noon time drink, especially during good weather. The upper deck is a perfect place to enjoy the view of the river and recharge.

Kraków, Poland – Wieliczka Salt Mine

The Wieliczka Salt Mine is located about thirty minutes south of Kraków, Poland and sees thousands of visitors a day, so it is important to get tickets before you visit. In case you are unable to, they may be purchased at the site, though you may have a considerable wait before you are allowed down with your language group. All tours are guided in any one of several languages.

Wieliczka Salt Mine

Essentially the mine is actually a Halite mine, or a mine containing rock salt. Its composition is different from sea and other salts and is normally used on road surfaces and for other purposes, unless it is refined, then it can be used for table salt.

Information regarding the mine can be obtained from the link provided above, so there will be few details below. However all photographs are captioned for clarification.

The Way Down

Tunnels And More

Main Exhibits

Saint Kinga’s Chamber

Salt Lake And Exit

Kraków, Poland – Part Two

Though not a large city, Kraków still has enough to see to warrant more that a few posts. There are that many museums, attractions and interesting things that you can easily fill up more than a few days. This is why we spent four nights here, and probably could have spent more with all of the day trips that are also at your disposal.

Kraków

This part contains less churches and more museums. Of course we had some time to amble through town once or twice, but since we only had a half day to see what we could, the other half being consumed by our Salt Mine tour, we saw what we could in the time alotted.

Museums

Below are the museums we visited that were very close to our hotel and hold special importance in the history, culture and defense of the city.

Barbican

The fortified outpost just outside Saint Florian’s Gate is the Barbican. The name is actually derived by a fortified outpost of the same and was once attached via a wall to the Florian Gate and the defensive walls of the city.

The entrance to the Barbican is actually in line with Florian Gate, the entrance that would have normally spanned the moat now acts as the exit.

A ticket will give you access to the ramparts and each lookout tower. Since its main purpose was an outpost, any activity that was seen was reported back to the city via the old wall that used to connect it to the defensive walls. Surrounded by moats before and after it and three meter walls, its defenses were adequate enough to sound the alarm of an attack.

Kraków Defensive Walls

The Defensive Wall Museum contains four towers and a small section of the old wall that still survives. The towers are: Saint Florian’s, Haberdashers, Joiners and Carpenters.

The walls had others and most are marked by stones along the walking path of the park that surrounds the town.

Saint Florians Gate Tower

The Florian Gate actually contains a small chapel at the gate level and another one at the rampart level. The gate stands over the street by the same name and is one of the major entries into the old town.

Rynek Underground

This underground museum captures the feeling and historical elements of the old Cloth Hall that once stood on the site. The current installment of the Cloth Hall, complete with souvenir shops, is built over top of it.

Access to the site is via a stairwell and upon entry the visitor is met with a colorful exhibit of the Witness Colum.

Other exhibits include models of old stalls that shop keepers would sell everything from cloth, to trinkets and other necessities.

Near the end of the museum and walk-through is a long hall that contains several interesting video shows on different aspects of the history of the Rynek.

Churches And Cathedrals

Saint Florian’s Church

Located outside the old town through the Saint Florian’s Gate off of the Jana Matejki Plaza is the eponymous church. It has a beautiful interior and altar.

Kraków, Poland – Part One

In the Lesser Polish Voivodeship of Poland and cradled by the Vistula River is the second largest city in Poland, Kraków[1]Pronounced Krakoff.. A vibrant, clean and beautiful city, it currently hides its success as a tourist attraction very well.

Kraków

One of the oldest towns in Poland, Kraków’s founding goes way back to the eight century. The town was walled during the middle-ages, however most of the wall has not survived modern times.

There are only a small sections of it still left by the Florian Gate and other less noticeable fragments here and there, as well as monuments to the old towers that once blessed the eastern path of the park that circles the city.

Most of the old town’s streets accommodate the throngs of tourists that visit each day. In particular, they hide walking the park that circles the city like a lazy dragon.

Getting There

Our visit here was inspired by previous visits I had had traveling for business in the past. Luckily, our airport in Turin had a direct flight with RyanAir to Kraków. There are train connections to the city, but surely most people drive from the surrounding area and even rent a car at the airport to get here.

Hotels

Hotel Polski Pod Bialym Orlem

The hotel we stayed at was the Polski pod Bialym Orlem on Pijarska street, which was right next to the Florian Gate. A very nice five-star hotel that had excellent service and was very comfortable.

Rynek Główny

Rynek Główny is the main square of the city. Here you will find the Town Hall Tower, Cloth Hall and a few monuments. The square is active with many restaurants and cafes encircling it attending patrons. It rivals that Vittorio Veneto Piazza in Turin, which ostensibly is one of the largest, if not the largest in Europe.

Plac Szczepański

One of the three large main plazas in the city, the Plac Szczepański is close to Saint Anne’s and the Art Palace. It is also the location of many restaurants and small shops that dot its boundary.

Churches And Cathedrals

Kraków if anything, is a city of churches, cathedrals and basilicas. Any one of the catholic faith would be drawn to this city as a moth to a flame. Each one is a beautiful symbol of a proud faith, which by the attendance we witnessed is still enjoyed and celebrated in this city. The faithful come during all times during the day, just to sit, pray and be at peace in their choosen abode of peace. Along with Charlotte, North Carolina, it is known as one of the cities of churches.

Church Of The Transfiguration

On Pijarska Street, not far from our hotel is the Church of the Transfiguration. Perched a bit high overlooking Świętego Jana Street, the church has an amazing vault or ceiling.

Basilica Saint Francis Of Assisi

Typical of Saint Francis of Assisi this unassuming basilica was a pleasure to visit. Dark and unoffending, the ebony side chapel of the Madonna with Child is a real marvel.

The nave, with a golden altar beckons you forward, beseeching the faithful inside. The Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi is a thirteenth century church that was one of the first brick and sandstone churches in Poland.

Church Of Saint Anne

Located close to the Art Palace and the Plac Szczepański the Church of Saint Anne is elegant in its own way. Built in the baroque style, the floor itself is impressive in its own right.

The nave, altar, aisles and other aspects of the church speak for themselves. A beautiful church and typical of Catholic Churches found in Poland.

Church Of Saints John The Baptist And John The Evangelist

A small church next to a small Italian restaurant that we ate at, the Church Of Saints John The Baptist And John The Evangelist has a red exterior, small in stature and somewhat a simple baroque interior, but well worth a visit.

Holy Trinity Church

If you are looking for something small with more spartan lines, then the Holy Trinity Church should be a destination. It singular feature of adornment is in its wooden side chapels, which the photographs below show in better detail.

Saint Aldabert’s Church

Also known as Church Of Saint Wojciech, Saint Aldabert’s Church is a small chapel that sits on top of an older church.

The archealogical remains of the older church may be visited for a small fee. Frankly there is not much to see, but it was interesting nonetheless, even though it was quite short.

Restaurants

In this part we visited two restaurants of note. The Morski Oko and the Jama Michalika, one noted for its food, the other for its artwork.

Morskie Oko Restaurant

The Morskie Oko restaurant is actually one that we visited more than once, more on that later. In this edition we had reservations for lunch, since it can get quite busy.

Our seating was downstairs, where we could enjoy the restaurant’s medieval quality. The food was very good, but in true Polish fashion, very filling. The gołąbki w sosie pomidorowym, or cabbage rolls in tomato sauce, were actually very good, light but at the same time very filling.

Jama Michalika Restaurant

The Jama Michalika restaurant, though the food was not as good as the Morskie Oko, it is adorned with artwork. Pedestrians actually visit the inside of the restaurant just to look at the works.

We did not have reservations for this restaurant, but rather visited them since they had perogie on the menu. They were actually quite good, but also quite filling.

References

References
1 Pronounced Krakoff.