Tag: ristoranti

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Brussels, Belgium – Without Sprouts

Aside from the fact that there are only so many fries, waffles and chocolates that one can eat, we have yet come across the fabled brussel sprout in this capitol city. It’s not like we haven’t looked, but like all other things Belgian, it is mysterious, especially when it comes to cuisine, the city’s signature veggie, or better yet, service.

Brussels

The historic city of Brussels proper exists within what the locals call the pentagon, or the inner loop or road that used to contain the city wall. Within it, the visitor will again experience dramatic shifts between old and new, one with which the Belgians have obviously condoned or perhaps accepted through a complacent myopia. The juxtaposition of some of the most modern buildings one will ever see are here, french provincial alongside gothic alongside some post-modern nonesense is common and most striking, if not down right unpleasant.

Getting There

From Gent we took the InterCity train second class from the Sint Pierre Station, since it offered a direct service with a total travel time around thirty-five minutes. Because of the short distance, second class is more than convenient and you don’t have to drag your luggage up a flight a spiral stairs to get to it, what a poor design!

Hotel Warwick

We stayed at the Warwick on Rue Duquesnoy, very close to the train station, so very convenient for travelers. It is a four star and has very good ammenities. Though the bathrooms seem like they could use some care.

Grand Place

The main square in Brussels is the Grand Place. This is where some of the more important historical buildings will be found. It is flanked on the two major sides by the Brussels Town Hall and across from it the Brussels City Museum.

The other two sides have most of the cafes and restaurants with outside seating.

The Kleine Zavelsquare

A rather equisite example of gardening may be found at the Kleine Zavelsquare off the Rue de la Regence and across the street from Notre Dame Of The Victories Sablon. Also known as the Sablon, it is one of the more expensive districts in the city, with a concentration of antique and other dealers owning shops in the area.

Garden Of The Mount Of Arts

Here you will find different buildings and other architectural elements of interest, including a park and other unique buildings.

Other Areas Of The City

Here are some photographs from other parts of the city, to get an idea of what the overall picture looks like in this city.

Churches And Cathedrals

Saint Catherine Catholic Church

The Church of Saint Catherine is a Gothic church with Renaissance and Baroque elements. It clock tower, the Old Saint Catherine’s clock tower is actually a remnant of the former church which was destroyed. The church sports flying buttresses and gargoyles on the outside and shows heavy influences from churches in Paris, France.

The interior has an enormous wooden pulpit, like other churches and cathedrals in Belgium. The nave, aisle and transept are typical and the glass work unassuming.

Notre Dame Of The Victories Sablon

The one church that should be on your itinerary when in Brussels is Notre Dame Of The Victories Sablon. The interior of this church is just breathtaking. The exterior, due to its proximity to the street, is difficult to get a perception of aside from it beautiful typanum at the entrance.

The interior is complete with wooden pulpit and stained glass. Both aisles, the transepts and apse are all decorated with equisite stained glass, the right transept having a beautiful rose window. This church definitely benefitted from all the rich patrons and nobility whos names are strewn throughout the stained glass and on some walls.

Saint Michael And Saint Gudula Cathedral

Further out from the frantic inner core of the city and closer to the train station is Saint Michael’s And Saint Gudula’s Cathedral. Though we were able to take a photograph outside and few quick photographs of the nave inside, mass was being held at the time and we could not walk freely throughout the church as we normally would.

Restaurants

When eating in Belgiun you must be prepared for the highs and the lows, and then in some cases being frustrated beyond your wits. It may even make sense prior to leaving to sign up for one of the many *A (Anonymous) courses or a therapy session in your area, when you return you may need it.

Just as with other cities in Belgium, restaurants in tourist areas in Brussels offer essentially the same items, all for practically the same over-inflated prices. So try to venture further out and you might be rewarded with other cuisine, though this author doubts it; the food will be the same but perhaps at a somewhat cheaper price. For example, for what we call a simple ham and cheese pannini in the States, they call it something fancy “Croque Monsieur” and charge 25€. Lastly, do NOT leave a tip, for anyone, even if you struggle with your decision. The food is expensive enough and they get paid a good wage waiting tables, as is evident by their dismissive attitudes once you have ordered. Some expect it, to which I say, “Yeah, I don’t think so.”

The Blue Restaurant

Suffering from inflated ratings and not too far from our hotel is the Blue Restaurant, a tourist trap with a wide variety of foods to choose from and an over-priced menu. We stopped for lunch, only because we were still unfamiliar with the city and we were hungry. Our dishes were simple and tasted okay, but not worth the expense.

Lloyd Coffee Eatery

Contained within a hotel by the same name, Lloyd is a pretty reasonable place to get a brioche and coffee. The seating is a bit tricky, since they have separate seating for hotel guests and clientel from outside. But once that is figured out the process is rather straightforward and their pancakes are pretty good.

De Pistolei

This is a sandwich shop and perhaps one of the more reasonable places to grab something to eat, if your are on the go, or just to take back to your room. Not sure I would eat-in, we heard they actually charge more, so if you don’t have to, don’t.

The menu has a good mix of sandwiches and panini to choose from, both hot and cold. However, when we tried to order soup, “No sorry, no soup, not winter yet, next week.”, even though winter is not next week. However it remains on the menu anyway during other times of the year, perhaps as a conversation starter? Then we tried to order our sandwiches, the menu states there are two sizes, Pistolet or Baguette; “No sorry, no Pistolet, come back tomorrow.” Often times I wonder if it wouldn’t be easier, just to ask what they do have on the menu and then start from that point and work Belgian Backwards.

Norma Trattoria

The Italian restaurant Norma Trattoria is a good break from the hectic city center and offers a restricted menu of select items. The Scialatielli and Mezze Maniche were both commendable. It is kind of out of the way, located on Rue des Chartreux, but then there no crowds and it was very quiet.

NĂŒetnigenough

The restaurant named NĂŒetnigenough, which apparently in a wierd twist of Luxemburgerisch and English (or perhaps flemish), means “Good Night Enough.” This about sums it up, Good Bye, Good Night, Good Riddens Not Good Enough! If you are not a Francophone or Belgian, it is not worth the visit. This is the abode of an angry four-eyed francophone troll who behaves as though you do not exist. Upon entering we where explicitly told to sit at a specific table and when I hung my small backpack on the back of the chair, she exclaimed in her broken faulty terrible english. “For everyone’s safety”, grabbed the bag and shoved it under the bench where my wife was sitting in one swift motion. Never suffering fools, I quickly exclaimed, “Excuse me, you do not touch other people’s property!” Then I asked her to retrieve it immediately, which she did. I then politely asked if putting it on the bench next to my wife was okay. To which she retorted, “Yes, I am NOT SERVING YOU!” She spun around like the witch she is and went back to the kitchen. All my wife could think was, Thank God. For some time we looked at each other perplexed and thought, oh well, should we leave? But we waited and got another waiter who was very professional. We order the Beef Stew and stuck it out.

Conclusion

The interchange in the Belgian restaurant above, with the caveat that it is perhaps owned by Luxemburgers, still of sums up our trip to Belgium. I do not know if it is a government thing, an overall perception of Outsiders, a status thing, or most possibly a francophone thing of just having a nasty, rude, dismissive French/Belgian attitude. All I can say is, it infects everyone here and we have found it to be pervasive. They are just very unpleasant, rude is probably not harsh enough. Not only in Brussels, but throughout the country. We traveled from Dinant, to Brugge, to Gent and finally Brussels and found the same deep seated, vile distaste for outsiders.

My recommendation would be, if you come to visit Belgium, visit Brugge and leave, as quickly as possible. Aside from the fact that there is not much to see in this country to begin with, the people do not want you here, they do not want to interact with you, they do not want your business and therefore should not enjoy any fruits of tourism. I think the affects are already being felt in Dinant which appears to be dying, so be it. Let the EU folk keep them alive. We will not be returning, not even to fly through the godforsaken place! I thought France had an issue with outsiders, Belgium has definitely taken first place in my book.

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Gent, Belgium – Flemish Fascination

At the confluence of the rivers Leie and Scheldt is the city of Gent. However, with such an intricate system of canals, it is difficult to denote a river from a canal when walking the ancient city. It is probably only important to note that the system of waterways enabled the city to trade goods all along the northern European continent. At its economic height, the city became rich and an important trading partner with the Hanseatic League, which more or less ruled trade along that same line of coast.

Gent

The contemporary city of Gent is a confusing mix of old and new. It appears that the citizens of Gent do not make building decisions on historical estetic. Therefore, you will often find modern, boxey and bland buildings next to the older architectures, which are a bit bland in and of themselves, but maintain artistic quality to them the newer buildings lack.

Getting There

From Brugge we took the InterCity train to Dampoort train station, a dismal if almost forgotten stop (from the looks of it) on the Flemish rail system. It is actually interesting to note that it is so forgotten, you must use a phone application to call a taxi or use the bus system, since there is no line of taxis outside waiting to help you with your travels. Hence, from there we walked the twenty-five to thirty minutes with luggage in tow to our hotel in the center of town.

River Leie Waterfront

Cutting through the city is the canal of the Leie River. It separates the Kronenlei and the Graslei, the waterfront houses on either side or banks of the canal.

Ibis Hotel Centrum

Situated right next to the Cathedral of Saint Bavo is the Ibis Hotel Centrum. A step above the Flemish Dinant version. Here you are able to get more towels if you so choose and they offer free water each day. The biggest problem with this hotel is they call it a room, but there isn’t any room, it is VERY small.

Gravensteen – Castle Of The Counts

The Castle of the Counts, from the Counts of Flanders building it, is centrally located on the Lieve where it joins the Leie by the Groetenmarkt. It is a typical medieval fortress which contains the usual battlements, parapets and keep. Almost the entire is reconstructed after it was sold and repurposed for other industrial needs in the city. It was later bought back by the city and turned into a tourist item after much work.

It is however sparsely outfitted with relics or exhibits. There is one room that contains period weaponry that was used during those time. But most of the rooms have sketched wall hangings and in some cases flags adorning the ceiling, but aside from those, no furniture or other trappings. It is therefore advised to purchase the headset and indulge in the one hour walk-through tour of the castle.

Graffiti Street

Another narrow street in another city dedicated to the local fauna getting their adolescent artistic urges out. Though a few examples are extraordinary, most of it was just colorful wasted paint.

Other Sights And Monuments

There are many other sights and monuments throughout the city that speak of the city’s history. For example the old Rabot, or ancient gate to the city.

Churches And Cathedrals

There are two cathedrals in Gent, each one has its unique charm. There are also a number of churches that may also be visited, but times are restricted and you must check the schedules.

Saint Nicholas Church

More in the center of town and off the Korenmarkt is Saint Nicholas’ church of Christmas fame. An obviously underused and underkept church in the vicinity which is mostly grey outside and inside. There are many things boarded up when we visited, though no active renovations appeared to have been started. It is actually quite a shame since this is one of the oldest buildings in the city and one of the oldest churches which was built in the Scheldt Gothic style, which is uncommon.

Saint Bavo’s Cathedral

Saint Bavo’s Cathedral is perched on the small hill just off-center to town and across the street from our hotel. It is of typical cathedral design and has a very interest ambulatory and apse, which of course you have pay to go in and see, don’t underestimate the Belgian clergy on how to make a buck.

Saint Michel’s Cathedral

Located on Leie River and by the eponymous bridge is Saint Michel’s Cathedral. Though practically none of the original cathedral’s interior remains, its reconstruction through the twentieth century completely restored the Gothic elements it once had.

Saint Jacob’s Church

An out of the way church beyond the Vrijdagmarkt is Saint Jacob’s Catholic Church and is an example of French Romanesque style. The interior over time has gone through many other styles, including Gothic and Baroque, only to settle on the neo-Romanesque and neo-Gothic styles we see today.

Restaurants

I still do not know what it is, but restaurants in Belgium are a hit and miss adventure. Never in our travels have we come across three separate towns or cities in any country where you really have no idea what to expect heading out for lunch or dinner. The most common issue is after walking ten minutes to get there you find it is closed and perhaps not just for the evening, it may be closed for good; it’s often hard to tell some times.

So far our experience with food and restaurants in Belgium is: the service is often lacking, the food is okay, cleaniness, the restaurant itself is often closed (especially in the middle of the week, which of course must be due to some other economic force.)

Trattoria Della Mamma

One of the better restaurants in Gent and it is reflected in the price you pay for items on the menu. It has a modern welcoming atmosphere and they are fairly attentive with the service. The food was tasty and the house wine was enjoyable.

Porta Alta

A non-italian Italian restaurant, that is, it serves italian food but is not run by italians. We ate here for lunch and it was okay, nothing to write home about and the price was fair.

Tashun Chinese Restaurant

A restaurant that has seen better days, though the food is freshly made and remains quite enjoyable. It does not seem to be frequented to often and may be suffering from the same malady all restaurants are suffering from, the price of food. I can commend the Pork with Vegetable dish, it was quite tasty because of the pork and made an excellent sauce.

Da Adriano

We wanted pizza and ended up here because our first choice was CLOSED. The waiter wasn’t not happy to see us, since he was the only one waiting tables and they needed to be cleaned. However, after 10 minutes we were seated (we stood by the table waiting for it to be cleaned as he directed.) After that, it was not too bad, we shared a pizza which was good and some wine and had an enjoyable meal. However, we noticed that when people entered, he was very selective about who he seated, not sure what was going on there, but be prepared if you visit this establishment.

Sorelle

An Italian fusion style restaurant is Sorelle, or the sisters, on Onderbergen. A renovated house with an inviting charm and staff, Sorelle has a short menu which is not short on taste. The tomato soup and baked Italian Casserole with vegetables and tagliatelle is very good. Their selection for house red wine was also very good, a clean crisp taste, not sour with a good finish. They of course have other Belgian leaning dishes and desserts for local tastes, if you choose to go that route.

Luxalad Restaurant

A mexican themed restaurant that specializes in salads and other tasty mexican dishes. We came here to get take-out on our last evening in Gent, since we had a rather heavy lunch at Sorelle. So if you are looking for some a bit less expensive you may want to stop here.

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GdaƄsk, Poland – Hanseatic Harbor

With a choice between visiting Warsaw or GdaƄsk, we chose GdaƄsk because it had more historical meaning and promised a quainter historic center. Moreover, since we were doing a south to north kind of trip, it was the last stop on our itinerary, so smaller is usually less complicated and less demanding.

GdaƄsk

Formerly known as Danzig, GdaƄsk is a seaside city on the Baltic coast of Poland. Though the old city lies in the delta of the Motlawa River, it is still some five kilometers from the sea. It has switched back and forth from Polish rules, German, Russian and as a free-state. In the middle ages, it was once part of the Haneastic League and was a major trading partner in that confederation.

Getting There

From WrocƂaw, GdaƄsk is over a four hour train trip using the InterCity train system. Though the InterCity trains do not stop too often, there is still considerable distance between the two cities and even with an automobile it is a long drive. We were fortunate enough to have a very talkative couple that were Canadian-Polish dual citizens and have a very nice chat with them along the way, which thankfully seemed to have made the trip go faster.

Motlawa River

Along the Motlawa River on both sides are rows of buildings. Many were old warehouses, shops, fish mongers and other establishments, when the city was an active seaport. Today it is mostly restaurants, shops and hotels.

Old Port Crane

One of the major attactions is the Old Port Crane, also known as the GdaƄsk Crane, actually has an unknown origin. Though ostensibly built to convey things from ships portside into the city over the surrounding wall its actual purpose remains a mystery. It burnt down once and was restored, only to be partially destroyed during the end of World War II and rebuilt in the 1960s as a historical piece and museum.

DƂuga Street

Also known as Long Lane, or Langgasse, DƂuga Street is where you will find many of the notable houses that adorn the old town, as well as the Town Hall and Neptune’s Fountain.

It is bounded by the Green Gate on the end by the river, and the Golden Gate, which is near the former main entrance to the town, including its barbican and Highland Gate.

Mariacka Street

Parallel to Long Lane is Mariacka Street, an unusual sort of street due to its narrowness and odd balustrades on the stoops of each of the houses that line the street.

Each balustrade was made unique so that the owner could identify his building when the river overflowed it’s banks. Most of the houses here are also quaintly decorated, though many have fallen into disrepair over the years.

Raduni Canal

Another interesting place to visit is the area around the Raduni Canal. This is located on the other side of the basilica and Roman Keller.

Gates And More Gates

There are many gates in the old town, however most of the surviving ones still face the river.

The Highland and Golden Gates are on the land side of the city and were connected to a great wall that surrounded it at one time. Here you will find one of the walls two barbicans attached to the Torture Gate or house. This gate doubled as a prison and became known for tortures that were carried out in its cellars.

Churches And Cathedrals

Saint Mary’s Basilica

Situated almost in the center of town and on one end of Mariacka Street is Saint Mary’s Basilica. A brick gothic cathedral from the fourteenth century that has a working clock on its left side above the apse’s rear window which still appeared to maintain good time.

The church has an amazing organ and stained glass window in its transept. Though it is evident by the used mobile organ, the installed older one may no longer be in working order.

The church has a very interesting working astronomical clock and calendar along the interior left apse. According to records it not only computes most astronomical seasonal events, but also liturgical events and their timing.

Lastly, this basilica is rather plain and therefore many of the epitaphs and memorials stick out prominently. Most have German inscriptions on them, owing to the city rich heritage, though many are also written in Latin.

Restaurants

Yang Guang Chinese Restaurant

If you go through the Green Gate and cross the bridge then walk a few steps down Stągiewna Street you will find Yang Guang Chinese Restaurant on your right. If you are tired of all the meat, potatoes and dumplings you have been eating up until now, this is a very good stop for some vegetables. The even have broccoli in garlic sauce, one of our favorites.

Sempre Ristorante

The Sempre Ristorante is near the tip of the small island on the other side of the river. It is a modern Italian restaurant that serves good food with an upscale slant on the recipes and the prices. You won’t go wrong eating here, but you will also pay for it, if you know what I mean.

Tygle Restaurant

A highly rated restaurant with excellent Polish food is Tygle. Here you will find some classics as well as some new takes on Polish cuisine. If you are a chocolate lover, the urchin dessert is a must try. But be careful, those spikes are dark chocolate and will cause real damage to your diet.

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Modena, Italy – Home Of Balsamic

Known for balsamic vinegar, it also has a variety of other things to see and enjoy. Though we both couldn’t see spending more than a day here, unless of course the purpose is using it as a homebase for day trips elsewhere. The irony of it all is, you would think we would have at least tried balsamic while we were here, we did not.

Modena

Famously known for balsamic, Modena contains a few other points of interest, it twelfth century cathedral, as well as its own leaning tower. It has a market place, similar to other Italian towns and cities, which is actually inside for the most part and appears to function every day. The main street for shopping is most likely via Emilia Centro, it has porticos on one side and appears to have all the brand name shop one would expect to see.

Getting There

Thirty to forty minutes from Parma by train, Modena can be reached with only a few stops along the way for the regional train, or one stop if the InterCity train is used as an option. The train station in Modena and spartan and clean, as well as the neighborhood around it.

Comunale Palazzo

A civic building known as the Comunale Palazzo, was used in the past by the town council for official business and ceremonies. Outside and to the left of it, is the Preda Ringadora, a large piece of marble from Roman times used as a speaker’s platform; its present day means to “orate”. However, historians also say it was likely used as a pillory and also used to identify corpses which were laid out on it. In any case, it is commonly used today as a seat and a place of repose.

It is open and free to the public and has a handful of rooms that may be visited, which contain frescoes.

The palazzo is best known for its Hall of Fire. It is a term of endearment, assigned to it by the public to indicate that it was the hall containing the fireplace where back in the day, they could collect hot coals to warm themselves on the street during cold winter evenings. However, it is better known for the paintings that adorn the ceiling and walls that are the most impressive. Painted in the middle sixteenth century by NicolĂČ dell’Abate which depict episodes in Roman history that affected Modena as a town and city.

The Council Hall is where meetings would be held with respect to the town’s business. Electors would assemble here to discuss important matters of the day, planning and other administrative tasks.

There are also a Tapestry and a Wedding Hall. Neither is of any great import, except for the paintings that adorn each.

At the back entrance to the palazzo is a statue of Perseus holding the severed head of Medusa.  It can be seen directly by way of the back entrance stairwell. Or, when the back entrance doors are open, it can be seen from the street  flanked on either side by old maps of Modena.

Civic Tower

Located adjacent to the cathedral is the Civic Tower. Yes, the Civic Tower leans and not by a little, a lot. Comparable to those leaning towers in Bologna and Pisa it’s not that impressive, but it is very noticeable when judged from a distance, using other buildings as a reference.

Cathedrals and Churches

Cathedral of Modena

The Cathedral of Modena, or precisely Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption and Saint Geminianus[1]Saint Germinianus is Modena’s patron saint and who’s tomb, dating back to the fifth century, was part of one of the original churches erected on the same site., or colloquially and affectionately known as Il Duomo as in other Italian towns and cities. The main entrance has several tympanums above each door, depicting the biblical stories of Adam and Eve.

From outside it appears to have been rebuilt several times, many of the blocks that make up the facade of the structure do not match in many places. Though odd, the outside follows typical Romanesque architecture, with semi-circular arches that are filled in with brick and other appointments, with the exception of the large Piazza Portal on the north side, which almost functions as the main entrance.

The cathedral lacks a dome, instead having parapets on each of the four corners. It is sectioned in four places, reveals at the roof level as wall extending upwards, which coincide with the four internal arches for the nave. The inside is rather plain and mainly composed of bare brick. At the time we were there, a service was being held, limiting our ability to take more photographs.

Restaurants

For our day trip, we ate at a local place right off the Piazza Grande which promised to have good food at a fair price.

Enoteca Al Duomo

We ate lunch here on recommendations that we read online. Our seating was inside, since the temperature outside was starting to become a bit annoying. The food and service were good and we spent an enjoyable hour discussing Modena and what else, if anything, there was to see in the city.

Il Pilotta

Located in our hotel, Hotel Stendhal in Parma, we enjoyed our last meal in the area at La Pilotta. The Cappelletti is broth is common for this area and can be commended. Our main dishes were Italian in general and good, though I did not care for the stuffing in the pork tip. The menu said it was potato, but it tasted more like a polenta or some other grain and it had an odd taste for me.

References

References
↑1 Saint Germinianus is Modena’s patron saint and who’s tomb, dating back to the fifth century, was part of one of the original churches erected on the same site.
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Parma, Italy – Other Distractions

Since we like to travel at a slower pace, we tend to stay longer in towns and cities we visit, even if the stay may be unwarranted. This gives us a better feel for the places we have visited, but then you run the risk of running out of things to do. When this happens, we visit churches, the odd museum or other eccentric distractions that typically wouldn’t come up on a visitor’s radar. Here are a few examples.

Distractions in Parma

Teatro Regio

The Regio Theater is situated on Garibaldi just past the Pilotta on the right. Tickets may be purchased directly from them, however there are only guided tours in any one of several languages.

The outside and entrance are rather plain and nothing compared to La Scala or other prominent theaters in Italy. However, it does have a very critical local audience that only excepts high standards and sticking to tradition. So event organizers must plan carefully, lest to lose the wrath of the local perfectionists.

Originally decorated in the color blue, it has since been redesigned and redecorated by the Duchess Marie Louise of Parma in red. The walls are covered in box seats. When the duchess was still alive, the first floor seating, on the same level as the duchess’ box seat, were the most expensive. The very top level has no box seating, but rather standing room only for the commoner who could purchase a cheaper ticket and at least stand and hear the performances. The floor seating, though now the most expensive, were the cheaper seats in her day.

The box seating is nothing special, they actually look rather uncomfortable. Each used to be paired with an out room, where the ticket holder could throw a small party, bring something to eat and enjoy, or engage in other activities. The box seats and ancillary room across the hall used to be privately owned. Now the owners have been divested of the box seating, but still hold ownership rights to this ancillary rooms, which they cannot use unless they are in attendance. An odd arrangement that the theater owner, city and box seat owners agreed to some time ago, in order to prevent the theater from going bankrupt.

Churches and Cathedrals

Parma, as any Italian city, is host to numerous churches and cathedrals. The most important and interesting ones we found follow.

Parma Cathedral

The Romanesque architecture of the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, also known as the Parma Duomo or the Cathdral of Parma, must be on anyone’s list of places to visit in Parma. The ceiling by Correggio warrants a good ten to twenty minute inspection.

The nave is decorated by numerous frescoes and art of the twelfth century and depict the stories of faith that were common at that time.

Each aisle contains about six chapels, decorated and commemorated to different aspects of the faith, some used more than others.

Parma Baptistry

Adjacent to the Cathedral of Parma is the Baptistry. From the outside it is a rather tall eight side building that is elegantly carved on the outside with many different depictions of creatures and people, some flaunting animal appendages, while others appear almost mythological.

The main entrance faces northward and is adorned with a tympanum and other decorations, much like westward facing entrance. The rear entrance is less attactive and not as ornate as the other two, for reasons unknown.

From the inside, the Baptistry appears as a sixteen sided room with the font in the middle of the space. Each of the walls has a fresco on it and other architectural details. The ceiling is frescoed as well as a series of sixteen triangular paintings.

Today there is a collection of artistic statues placed along some of the walls, depicting the two seasons of Winter and Summer, as well as all of the months of the year.

Church of San Giovanni Evangelista

Under construction at the time, the church exhibits the fanciful, if not frustrating looks of a construction site so familiar to those who travel Europe.

Even the interior lacked lighting, so it was difficult to see much, let alone take decent photographs.

Complex of San Paolo

Not far from the intersection of Strada G. Garibaldi and Strada Macedonio Melloni is the complex of San Paolo. There are signs near the street by the entrance, but you have to walk a wooded entry some distance before reaching the ticket office. There you can purchase tickets for both the Rooms of San Paolo and the Puppet Museum.

Rooms of Saint Paul

Better known as the Camera di San Paolo, the rooms in this museum are part of the Benedictine Monestary that stood on this spot starting in the 11th century.

In one room, the frescoes painted on the walls and ceilings are from one of the areas famous painters, Correggio, and were done sometime in the 16th century.

The museum also has a vaulted frescoed ceiling from Alessandro Araldi dedicated to Saint Catherine.

Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum

Founded by Italo Ferrari, a  peasant and apprentice shoemaker, turned his love of puppetry and puppeteering into an obsession. After failing several times in his twenties and thirties, he took on other jobs to support himself. It wasn’t until he perfected his art after the turn of the century and his repertoire from only tragedies, but to also include comedies and variety acts, was he able to devote full time and energy to his passion.

He died in 1961 at the ripe old of 84, after having several successful radio and tv presentations. From then on, his son Giordano took up his mantel and later rebranded the act as the Ferrari Company, not to be confused with the eponymous car manufacturer.

It is with the wish or his son and family to preserve this important social and artful legacy, that the family was finally able to secure funding and the means to open this museum. The museum even hosts events and of course, puppet shows, however only when the current company is not touring internationally. The shows are mainly geared around fairy tales and other fables, especially tales around good and bad people, including everyone’s favority, the devil.

Some of the puppets they have at their disposal seem to also indicate a predilection for the Zanni, having representations of the characters Harlequin[1]He is the dockworker, the porter, the pimp, the good servant, simple in manner and mind, who gets into trouble and is always hungry. This is Harlequin. He derives from the figure of the Zanni, the … Continue reading, Pulcinello[2]Pulcinella is both good and bad, rude and sometimes affected. Unlike Harlequin, a “sidekick,” but manages to be independent on stage, competing even with only one antagonist at a time. … Continue reading and other Commedia dell’Arte puppets.

Restaurants

UagliĂČ Restaurant

A smaller chain restaurant with a few stores around the area, UagliĂČ is not a bad pick if you are in a hurry or have not made other plans. We were hungry for lunch, so we stopped to see what they had to offer. The pasta with meatballs in sauce was very good, as was the small mixed salad. There was plenty of seating inside and out.

References

References
↑1 He is the dockworker, the porter, the pimp, the good servant, simple in manner and mind, who gets into trouble and is always hungry. This is Harlequin. He derives from the figure of the Zanni, the jester of comic tales documented as early as the 14th century. From the Zanni, Harlequin retains the frank character and natural propensity for mischief. Harlequin’s costume, known by all as the most colorful of masks, was initially white and tattered; for this reason, first a patch was added, then another, until the outfit was multi-colored diamonds. This is how we see him in 17th-century theater. His appearance is clumsy and stocky, the black half-mask he wears is animalistic, and on his head he wears a white felt hat topped with a feather or a rabbit’s foot. The feather is a symbol of fertility and the rabbit is a symbol of cunning. From his belt hangs the baĂČcio, the polenta stirring stick, which serves as his sword. He also has a bump on his forehead, which some believe to be the remnants of a devil’s horn. The name Harlequin, in fact, recalls that of a devil. Alichino is the devil mentioned by Dante in the Divine Comedy.
↑2 Pulcinella is both good and bad, rude and sometimes affected. Unlike Harlequin, a “sidekick,” but manages to be independent on stage, competing even with only one antagonist at a time. Pulcinella wears a white shirt with a gathered waist, white trousers with a belt, a white felt conical hat, and a half-mask with a large, slightly hooked nose. The costume is similar to that worn by peasants since the Middle Ages; they are made out of hemp, the cheapest home-woven fiber, and no color to avoid the cost of dye. Pulcinella is a poor man. These masks form the original core of the Commedia dell’Arte.
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Parma, Italy – Pilotta Pleasures

Approximately two to two and a half hours away from our place in Turin is the city of Parma. Known for ham, cheese and other delicacies in the region, we had been wanting to go there for some time. Our recent visit was for us full of surprises, including the Pilotta Museum Complex, which was a pleasure for us and central to this post.

Parma

At first we were not too sure about the city. Our first impressions, and to some extent our lasting ones as well, is that it is laid out in a chaotic fashion, even for an Italian town. The mixture of new and old on the outskirts is not very pleasing to the eye and is kind of takes away from the central historic part of the city, which frankly is not very large.

The Parma river as well, suffers from drought and over-irrigation, a mere trickle of its former self. Called a torrente in Italian, or torrent, one can only wonder when the last time the river actually enjoyed that much water.

The city does not suffer from tourism and we found the historic parts very pleasant to walk around. There is not much to see, hence our reason for visiting the museums, which we found different and interesting.

Getting There

We took the FrecciaRossa train from Turin to Milan, then the Regional from Milan to Parma. The regional trains make more stops than the high speed trains, taking an extra half hour to make the hour long trip by high speed rail. The good news is, there are options between Milan and Parma, from FrecciaRossa, Italo, TrenItalia FTP to TrenNord and perhaps more. Our selection was based on scheduling and nothing else.

Strada Cavour

The main street for shopping in the city. It was about a ten minute walk from our hotel and winds its way through the older part of the city, though all of the businesses are modern. You will find all the modern, trendy and chain-like stores here, along with their inflated prices.

Hotel Stendhal

We stayed at the Hotel Stendhal, a fifteen minute direct walk from the train station. Though we read some concerning reviews on some travel sites, we did not have any issues at all and had the most enjoyable stay. The staff was great and we never had to ask for anything. We had a large superior room on the side of the hotel which was very quiet and comfortable, along with a complimentary breakfast.

Pilotta Museum Complex

The Pilotta Museum Complex is the former Faranese Palace that now houses five or six museums, some of which were not open at the time of our visit.

Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Parma

The archeological museum offers artifacts from the ancient history in and around Parma. Here are exhibits of the ancient civilizations of the Roman Empire, Greeks and Etruscans who inhabited the Po river valley and the surrounding area thousands of years ago.

The museum also has a display of ancient Roman tombs, including sarcophogy and examples of mummified remains.

Farnese Theater

The Farnese Theater is actually a rather bizarre construction. Built within a very large room of the palace is a theater that was constructed quickly, in order to entertain some political majistrate of the Medici family. However, the event never took place and subsequent to it completion, it was only used eight or nine times.

It eventually succumbed to allied bombings in the mid 1940s and was almost completely destroyed and then rebuilt later, for cultural reasons. Though none of the plaster exterior has never been replaced, as is evident by the missing ceiling, it still enjoys a woddy charm. Luckily, the old frescoes survived and can still be seen today.

Galleria Nazionale di Parma

The entrance to the National Gallery is flanked by two huge statues. One of Dionysus and the other or Hercules. They are both impressive in their own right, with the one of Hercules looking like it is right on the boundary of the human anatomy.

The rest of the gallery houses a myriad of large paintings in its large hall. Unfortunately there are no benches or seating to admire them, so one can only slowly walk by or stand in front of them for a bit, in order to admire them.

As of this writing, the back of the gallery held the real prize for a visitor, a work by Leonardo da Vinci called the head of a woman, or “La Scapiliata”. One can see similarities with her face and that of the Mona Lisa, which was painted some time after and is now in the Louvre in Paris, France.

Palatina Library

The Palatina Library is a large library that is still functioning, although for academic and research purposes only. However, the Petitot Gallery is still open to the public, where one can find a wide variety of topics, mostly in Italian of course.

The Bodoni Museum

Anyone who has taken typesetting in school would enjoy the Bodoni Museum. The museum honors the famous Parma typesetter and printer, Giambattista Bodoni, and his eponymous typeface as well. The Bodoni typeface was a favorite of mine in high school, where I learned the intricacies of setting type. I loved its clean lines and serifs, using it to print a set of invitations for my mother at one time[1]To use the museum’s own words, “The severe, neoclassical imprint of the letters, characterized by the stark contrast between the thickness of the strokes and the thinness of the lines and … Continue reading.

Restaurants

You will find most of the non-industrial restaurants away from the main shopping street of Strada Cavour. Reservations are recommended, even for lunch, for these are often used by locals and the business crowd. Most of the Osterias and Trattorias serve wine by the tap in quarter, half and full liter sizes, whereas the corporate restaurants on Cavour serve only by the glass, so they can up-charge for it, like in the United States.

Osteria dei Servi

The Osteria dei Servi is actually housed under the Viale Giovanni Mariotti and has a rather odd entrance. But don’t let that fool you. The restaurant is actually quite nice inside and comfortable. The food is excellent and typical for the area.

Trattoria Corrieri Parma

Another fine local restaurant is the Trattoria Corrieri Parma. Located further down in the city and by a Parma University building, it offers great food at even lower prices than die Servi. We found the service similar and the menu full of local dishes for us to try.

References

References
↑1 To use the museum’s own words, “The severe, neoclassical imprint of the letters, characterized by the stark contrast between the thickness of the strokes and the thinness of the lines and serifs; the stark, epigraphic composition of the title pages and dedications; the airy, correct relationship between text and images, between line and line, between light and dark make Bodoni’s page a prodigy of harmony and readability.“
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Turin, Italy – Chris Visits

For a few days we enjoyed the company of our cousin Chris, who luckily was traveling for business in the area and was able to stop by for a visit.

Turin

Chris arrived on Friday and I met him at our main train station of Porta Nuova, which because it was coming from Naples and went through Rome, was late by about fifteen minutes.

For one entire Saturday, the 2nd of May, we were able to enjoy amazing weather and show Chris the city of Turin. One of our major stops was the Open Market in Piazza della Repubblica. There he purchased authentic Italian cheese to take back home with him. Other than that, we just made sure he enjoyed great food here and kept him as comfortable as possible in our apartment for a few days.

Restaurants

It seemed like we spent more time in the restaurants, trattoria and cafes, than we did walking around. We made a point of it to take him to our two favorite restaurants nearby, which I am happy to say we had reservations for, given the fact the city was packed with people for the Jazz Festival in Turin.

Trattoria D’Agata

Our favorite Trattoria for authentic Silician cuisine is the Trattoria D’Agata in Turin. Here we always enjoy good food, their Arancini are to die for, and good wine.

Porto di Savona

Another favorite of ours for Piemontese cuisine is the Porta di Savona. Since the weather was so exceptional and it was lunch we sat outside. Located in the corner of the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, we essentially sat on the edge of the rest of chaos going on in the piazza, it was very busy.

We had a great time and we are sure Chris did too!

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Reggio Calabria, Italy – Calabrian Classic

If anyone travels all the way down to the very tip of Italy they will discover Reggio Calabria, a Calabrian city with all the classic touches of Southern Italy. Offshore, you will see the ever present Mount Etna smoking in the background.

Getting There And Back

To get there we took TrennItalia’s Calabrian Regional train service from Tropea. Approximately a two hour train ride that eventually hugs the coast and offers a preview of the Italian island of Sicily.

To get back we used Reggio Calabria’s airport, where RyanAir offers direct service to Turin’s Caselle Airport. Another trip just short of two hours which also hugs the coast of Italy and also offers views of Sardinia and other prominent points of interest from the air.

Reggio Calabria

The official name for the city is Reggio Calabria, but it is also known by its traditional names of Reggio di Calabria and just plain Reggio. The city was almost completely destroyed by an earthquake in the beginning of the last century and its more hopefully robust version has new amenities the former city lacked.

If you love food, visit the shops along Corso Garibaldi. Many have interesting and local foods that you can bring home with you to enjoy, while you reminisce about your time in Calabria.

Just up from our hotel and on the transformed via Giudecca street, is the eponymous stairway.

Torrine Hotel

On the edge of the older and more vibrant part of the city, the Torrine Hotel is about four blocks from the waterfront. This is just as well, since it provides a quieter place to stay, with the exception being rush hour; it is located on a busy one-way thoroughfare through the city that buses frequent. Our room came with breakfast, a mixture of continental with some warm food thrown in.

Lungomare

The city has an extensive waterfront and a beautiful Lungomare to go with it. Near the end of it, in the urban park, you will find a nice long sign with the city’s name where you can take memorable photographs.

There are several points of interest along the boardwalk and a leisurely stroll along it will eventually bring you to all of them.

Somewhere near the end, down by the Roman Baths, Patti found the Big Bench. Apparently just installed, since it had no placename on it yet.

Monumento Della Vittoria

From our hotel on Via Giula, almost directly down the street and on the waterfront and Lungomare, is the Monumento della Vittoria. It is a monument erected for Italy’s World War I victory and Victor Emmanuele III, which also has replica of the Statue of Athena Promachos inside it.

Roman Baths

Along the Lungomare is a site of old Roman baths from antiquity.

Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo

A large cathedral in the Piazza Duomo is the Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo. It was partially destroyed in the 1908 earthquake and rebuilt with a fusion of Romanesque and Gothic styles.

The most interesting interior element of the cathedral is its ceiling. A timbered edifice that is remarqued and painted in a most interesting style, including pagan elements which appear to be handpainted.

Castello Aragonese

The Castle Aragonese no longer functions as a castle and has been renovated into something more useful, an art museum. Here for a small fee you are able to enjoy two galleries, one in each tower.

North Tower Gallery

During our visit this gallery had an exhibit of modern paintings, most of which bright colors were used in an almost three dimensional approach.

South Tower Gallery

While we were visiting this tower housed a collection of art known as Voci senza Volto, or Voices without a Face. An effective and provocitive collection of art, which appears part surreal and part dystopian and gets the viewer to think about signs of struggle, longing and hardship. This was the high point of the trip for me.

Villas And Palazzos

There are a few villas and palazzos of import in the city.

Villa Genoese Zerbi

A beautiful Venetian Art Nouveau style building on the Corso Emanuele is the villa of Genoese Zerbi. The original was destroyed in the great quake, but it was completely restored and now is one of the main charms of the city.

Palazzos Spinelli and GiuffrÚ

These two palazzos are side by side on the Corso Emanuele by the waterfront. Both appear to need some work. Palazzo Spinelli offers a great example of Calabrian architecture and Art Nouveau, or the liberty style.

Palazzo GiuffrÚ on the other hand offers a more mundane example, and is reminiscent of other buildings you will find in other large Italian cities.

Restaurants

Drogheria Culinaria

Using its former name for the grocery store the family used to own, it now serves food and drinks. It has a decent wine list, with several good varietals by the glass.

The food is also pretty good and you will definitely be able to find something to slake your appetite at this establishment.

Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante

One of the restaurants in the area that is highly recommended for local Calabrian dishes is the Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante. Located on via Reggio Campi and via II Dezembre, this small little restaurants attacts all the locals, so have your reservation in hand before leaving your hotel or place of stay.

Everything we tried had that home cooking taste without any loss to attention to detail. The Stufato is highly recommended and will melt in your mouth.

While we were there a local class was having their end of year party, so noise levels were through the roof. However, it was still enjoyable, especially watching the children eating all that food. Made me remember how hungry I used to be as a school kid.

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Tropea, Italy – Onions Anyone?

A destination for tourists and those interested in southern Italian cuisine, a stop in Tropea is almost a must. Known for their mixture of Sicilian and Greek influences, this part of Calabria is famous for the Tropean Red Onion, or Cipolla Rossa, one of the most tasty onions in the world. Onions anyone?

Getting There

In order to get to Tropea from Sapri we had to take the InterCity train from Sapri to Lamezia Terme Centrale and then connect. Unfortunately there is no logistical way around it. From there we took the local TrennItalia Regional train service to Tropea. This gave us a two and a half hour layover in Lamezia Terme, just enough time for lunch!

Lamezia Terme

Other than connecting with our other train, there was no other reason to visit this place, that is, other than lunch! With two and a half hours layover, we had plenty of time.

Restaurants

Europa da Albano

While we were on our InterCity train, I took the liberty of researching what our options were at Lamezia Terme. There weren’t many, but this restaurant and pizzeria caught my eye. It was a good choice. It was very busy inside and out and packed with local people, which is actually a good sign. Though we waited a bit to order, the wait was not bad in the end and our drinks and food arrived within customary promptness.

Tropea

Unknown to us, Tropea is a very busy tourist destination and we were there on a weekend, so the crowds we experienced were kind of unexpected, especially for this time of year.

One of the main squares or piazzas close to our hotel, was the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, which our street ran right into, if you walked far enough. It has plenty of seating and a few monuments amongst the trees that have been planted to provide some shade against the sun.

From there the main street in town is the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, which turns into Via Stazione as one gets closer to the train station.

Hotel Colomba D’Oro

In Tropea we stayed at a hotel between the old part of town and the train station. It was just as well, our hotel in the city was the Hotel Colomba D’Oro on via Vittorio Veneto and it proved to be quiet and very comfortable. Our room came with a free morning continental breakfast, which included cooked eggs, pancetta and other warm offerings.

Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania

The twelfth century cathedral of Saint Mary of Romania is on Largo Duomo. The interior houses guilt altar for the Virgin of Romania and the Black Crucifix of 1600.

Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea

On the presque-isle of Tropea, which is actually to an island than a peninsula, stands the Sanctuary of Santa Maria. In order to get there one has to climb down from the city and ascend the stairs to the sanctuary, which opens around ten in the morning. It is best to get their at opening, because as we where leaving throngs of people appeared and the inside of the chapel is quite tiny.

The entrance to the sanctuary is adorned by three painted cielings.

The interior is actually quite small and fitted out with pews, an altar and other accoutrements of catholicism. There is also a small shop where you can by a keepsake, postcards or other memorabilia.

There are a few vantage points in which to take photographs of the surrounding coast and beach, as well as the city of Tropea perched on its cliff.

Belvedere Gardens

An adjunct to the sanctuary are the Belvedere Gardens, access to which is controlled by entry to the chapel. The gardens command a view of the coastline and with perfect weather equally good photographs of it.

There are a variety of trees in the garden, as well as other bushes and flowering plants. In the day it must have been an amazing place to repose and enjoy the day.

Via Lungo Mare

Though the walk along the Lungomare in Tropea is not the best we have been on, it is a nice walk that can bring you back up on the other side of Tropea. It also provides access to the sandy beach that enjoys protection from the wind and the waves and appears to be a favorite for the locals.

Nasocchio – The Apotropian Mask

Walking though the town a visitor will occasionally notice a mask that almost looks like a caricature. The closest analog we have in the States are caricature artists that frequent fairs and draw your face with a pencil in a very stylized way. Well, these masks are specific to the Calabrian culture.

Nasocchio as he is called in Calabrian culture is a mask whose strange and unique glare is supposed to frighten away evil spirits, or what is commonly termed here the Malocchio or Evil Eye. The Italian Horn is meant to function in the same way, as are other strange artifacts in the culture. They are also meant to bring good fortune with their use.

Restaurants

Though we stayed here only for two nights, we still had occasion to visit three restaurants, all of which offered local Calabrian or Sicilian dishes.

Royal Bar

Not known for their food, we bought some drinks here for a quick rest. Nothing special, but the drinks were okay.

Diamante Rosso Tropea Ristorante

Here we had to try to local al ragu Arancini, or Sicilian breaded and conically shaped stuffed rice balls that are deep-fried. They were amazing, but usually always good, depending where you buy and how they are made. They can actually be purchased at most good local stores, cafes and some marketplaces and quickly heated up for a snack or meal.

Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante

At Le Volpe we ordered a pasta dish each and dessert. The Filey was freshly made and topped with Tropean Onions, which are deliciously sweet, when they are sautéed until they have that glassy look.

Palazzo Teotino Ristorante

This restaurant is housed in an old palazzo and has both indoor and outdoor seating. We sat indoor right in the foyer next to the stairwell. We came here for the Tropean Onion soup that they advertize and found it very rich and tasty. We can also commend the fried onion floret, you get about four when you order them, so enough to share.

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Sapri, Italy – Sunny Interlude

After our week in Naples where we took several days to visit the Amalfi Coast, we headed further south and stopped in Sapri. This was a scheduled visit to break up the trip and offer us a sunny interlude and a bit of repose before continuing to Tropea and later Reggio Calabria.

Sapri

Sapri is a small Italian town that is dominated by its stony beach. While there it was fairly vacant and deviod of other tourists. But there were plenty of restaurants open and we did enjoy that relaxing atmosphere and food.

The town itself is nothing to look at, but there are a few spots of interest, all of which were along the coastal area. Situated in the Gulf of Policastro it is surrounded by hills on all three sides. Luckily the train station is a short ten minute walk to and from the beach.

Getting There

There are several trains that run between Naples and Sapri. Perhaps the most convenient one will be the local, which stops at several points, but offers a bit more flexibility.

Our Hotel

We stayed at the Hotel Pisacane, a small botique style hotel right on the beach. Unfortunately with the exception of breakfast, the restaurant is closed until tourist season which starts in June. Luckily, that did not turn into an issue for us.

The Observatory

A very tall structure overlooking the Gulf of Policastro. It appears to celebrate eight renowned Italian scientist from astronomy, radio and meterology. It is located on the northern part of the beach, close to the Roman Villa Ruins.

Roman Villa Ruins

Partially perserved under a canopy, the Roman Villa ruins are also north of town and located close to the observatory. The observatory also has some roman ruins near it that appear to be an old roman cellar or other structure.

Restaurants

While in Sapri we ate at two good restaurants that were noteworthy. Both of which were for a late lunch. We prefer most of the time to eat a heavier lunch and just skip dinner altogether.

Tintobrace Ristorante

An upscale restaurant that offers Calabrian food and fine selection of local wines by the glass. I would recommend the Cacio and Pepe spaghetti.

Ristorante Lucifero

The Ristorante Lucifero is also a pizzeria and has great pizza and pasta specials. It is located in town and not on the beach and is a bit difficult to spot. Therefore, they have added signs along the way to assist.

I can commend the Aglianico from Paestum, Italy. Luigi Maffini’s KlĂšos comes in 50cl bottles and pairs perfectly with pasta and other tomato based dishes. I love Aglianico, it is a deep, clear, ruby wine with hints of plum, berry and dark fruit and is very tasty.