Tag: ristoranti

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Turin, Italy – Chris Visits

For a few days we enjoyed the company of our cousin Chris, who luckily was traveling for business in the area and was able to stop by for a visit.

Turin

Chris arrived on Friday and I met him at our main train station of Porta Nuova, which because it was coming from Naples and went through Rome, was late by about fifteen minutes.

For one entire Saturday, the 2nd of May, we were able to enjoy amazing weather and show Chris the city of Turin. One of our major stops was the Open Market in Piazza della Repubblica. There he purchased authentic Italian cheese to take back home with him. Other than that, we just made sure he enjoyed great food here and kept him as comfortable as possible in our apartment for a few days.

Restaurants

It seemed like we spent more time in the restaurants, trattoria and cafes, than we did walking around. We made a point of it to take him to our two favorite restaurants nearby, which I am happy to say we had reservations for, given the fact the city was packed with people for the Jazz Festival in Turin.

Trattoria D’Agata

Our favorite Trattoria for authentic Silician cuisine is the Trattoria D’Agata in Turin. Here we always enjoy good food, their Arancini are to die for, and good wine.

Porto di Savona

Another favorite of ours for Piemontese cuisine is the Porta di Savona. Since the weather was so exceptional and it was lunch we sat outside. Located in the corner of the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, we essentially sat on the edge of the rest of chaos going on in the piazza, it was very busy.

We had a great time and we are sure Chris did too!

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Reggio Calabria, Italy – Calabrian Classic

If anyone travels all the way down to the very tip of Italy they will discover Reggio Calabria, a Calabrian city with all the classic touches of Southern Italy. Offshore, you will see the ever present Mount Etna smoking in the background.

Getting There And Back

To get there we took TrennItalia’s Calabrian Regional train service from Tropea. Approximately a two hour train ride that eventually hugs the coast and offers a preview of the Italian island of Sicily.

To get back we used Reggio Calabria’s airport, where RyanAir offers direct service to Turin’s Caselle Airport. Another trip just short of two hours which also hugs the coast of Italy and also offers views of Sardinia and other prominent points of interest from the air.

Reggio Calabria

The official name for the city is Reggio Calabria, but it is also known by its traditional names of Reggio di Calabria and just plain Reggio. The city was almost completely destroyed by an earthquake in the beginning of the last century and its more hopefully robust version has new amenities the former city lacked.

If you love food, visit the shops along Corso Garibaldi. Many have interesting and local foods that you can bring home with you to enjoy, while you reminisce about your time in Calabria.

Just up from our hotel and on the transformed via Giudecca street, is the eponymous stairway.

Torrine Hotel

On the edge of the older and more vibrant part of the city, the Torrine Hotel is about four blocks from the waterfront. This is just as well, since it provides a quieter place to stay, with the exception being rush hour; it is located on a busy one-way thoroughfare through the city that buses frequent. Our room came with breakfast, a mixture of continental with some warm food thrown in.

Lungomare

The city has an extensive waterfront and a beautiful Lungomare to go with it. Near the end of it, in the urban park, you will find a nice long sign with the city’s name where you can take memorable photographs.

There are several points of interest along the boardwalk and a leisurely stroll along it will eventually bring you to all of them.

Somewhere near the end, down by the Roman Baths, Patti found the Big Bench. Apparently just installed, since it had no placename on it yet.

Monumento Della Vittoria

From our hotel on Via Giula, almost directly down the street and on the waterfront and Lungomare, is the Monumento della Vittoria. It is a monument erected for Italy’s World War I victory and Victor Emmanuele III, which also has replica of the Statue of Athena Promachos inside it.

Roman Baths

Along the Lungomare is a site of old Roman baths from antiquity.

Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo

A large cathedral in the Piazza Duomo is the Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo. It was partially destroyed in the 1908 earthquake and rebuilt with a fusion of Romanesque and Gothic styles.

The most interesting interior element of the cathedral is its ceiling. A timbered edifice that is remarqued and painted in a most interesting style, including pagan elements which appear to be handpainted.

Castello Aragonese

The Castle Aragonese no longer functions as a castle and has been renovated into something more useful, an art museum. Here for a small fee you are able to enjoy two galleries, one in each tower.

North Tower Gallery

During our visit this gallery had an exhibit of modern paintings, most of which bright colors were used in an almost three dimensional approach.

South Tower Gallery

While we were visiting this tower housed a collection of art known as Voci senza Volto, or Voices without a Face. An effective and provocitive collection of art, which appears part surreal and part dystopian and gets the viewer to think about signs of struggle, longing and hardship. This was the high point of the trip for me.

Villas And Palazzos

There are a few villas and palazzos of import in the city.

Villa Genoese Zerbi

A beautiful Venetian Art Nouveau style building on the Corso Emanuele is the villa of Genoese Zerbi. The original was destroyed in the great quake, but it was completely restored and now is one of the main charms of the city.

Palazzos Spinelli and Giuffrè

These two palazzos are side by side on the Corso Emanuele by the waterfront. Both appear to need some work. Palazzo Spinelli offers a great example of Calabrian architecture and Art Nouveau, or the liberty style.

Palazzo Giuffrè on the other hand offers a more mundane example, and is reminiscent of other buildings you will find in other large Italian cities.

Restaurants

Drogheria Culinaria

Using its former name for the grocery store the family used to own, it now serves food and drinks. It has a decent wine list, with several good varietals by the glass.

The food is also pretty good and you will definitely be able to find something to slake your appetite at this establishment.

Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante

One of the restaurants in the area that is highly recommended for local Calabrian dishes is the Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante. Located on via Reggio Campi and via II Dezembre, this small little restaurants attacts all the locals, so have your reservation in hand before leaving your hotel or place of stay.

Everything we tried had that home cooking taste without any loss to attention to detail. The Stufato is highly recommended and will melt in your mouth.

While we were there a local class was having their end of year party, so noise levels were through the roof. However, it was still enjoyable, especially watching the children eating all that food. Made me remember how hungry I used to be as a school kid.

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Tropea, Italy – Onions Anyone?

A destination for tourists and those interested in southern Italian cuisine, a stop in Tropea is almost a must. Known for their mixture of Sicilian and Greek influences, this part of Calabria is famous for the Tropean Red Onion, or Cipolla Rossa, one of the most tasty onions in the world. Onions anyone?

Getting There

In order to get to Tropea from Sapri we had to take the InterCity train from Sapri to Lamezia Terme Centrale and then connect. Unfortunately there is no logistical way around it. From there we took the local TrennItalia Regional train service to Tropea. This gave us a two and a half hour layover in Lamezia Terme, just enough time for lunch!

Lamezia Terme

Other than connecting with our other train, there was no other reason to visit this place, that is, other than lunch! With two and a half hours layover, we had plenty of time.

Restaurants

Europa da Albano

While we were on our InterCity train, I took the liberty of researching what our options were at Lamezia Terme. There weren’t many, but this restaurant and pizzeria caught my eye. It was a good choice. It was very busy inside and out and packed with local people, which is actually a good sign. Though we waited a bit to order, the wait was not bad in the end and our drinks and food arrived within customary promptness.

Tropea

Unknown to us, Tropea is a very busy tourist destination and we were there on a weekend, so the crowds we experienced were kind of unexpected, especially for this time of year.

One of the main squares or piazzas close to our hotel, was the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, which our street ran right into, if you walked far enough. It has plenty of seating and a few monuments amongst the trees that have been planted to provide some shade against the sun.

From there the main street in town is the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, which turns into Via Stazione as one gets closer to the train station.

Hotel Colomba D’Oro

In Tropea we stayed at a hotel between the old part of town and the train station. It was just as well, our hotel in the city was the Hotel Colomba D’Oro on via Vittorio Veneto and it proved to be quiet and very comfortable. Our room came with a free morning continental breakfast, which included cooked eggs, pancetta and other warm offerings.

Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania

The twelfth century cathedral of Saint Mary of Romania is on Largo Duomo. The interior houses guilt altar for the Virgin of Romania and the Black Crucifix of 1600.

Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea

On the presque-isle of Tropea, which is actually to an island than a peninsula, stands the Sanctuary of Santa Maria. In order to get there one has to climb down from the city and ascend the stairs to the sanctuary, which opens around ten in the morning. It is best to get their at opening, because as we where leaving throngs of people appeared and the inside of the chapel is quite tiny.

The entrance to the sanctuary is adorned by three painted cielings.

The interior is actually quite small and fitted out with pews, an altar and other accoutrements of catholicism. There is also a small shop where you can by a keepsake, postcards or other memorabilia.

There are a few vantage points in which to take photographs of the surrounding coast and beach, as well as the city of Tropea perched on its cliff.

Belvedere Gardens

An adjunct to the sanctuary are the Belvedere Gardens, access to which is controlled by entry to the chapel. The gardens command a view of the coastline and with perfect weather equally good photographs of it.

There are a variety of trees in the garden, as well as other bushes and flowering plants. In the day it must have been an amazing place to repose and enjoy the day.

Via Lungo Mare

Though the walk along the Lungomare in Tropea is not the best we have been on, it is a nice walk that can bring you back up on the other side of Tropea. It also provides access to the sandy beach that enjoys protection from the wind and the waves and appears to be a favorite for the locals.

Nasocchio – The Apotropian Mask

Walking though the town a visitor will occasionally notice a mask that almost looks like a caricature. The closest analog we have in the States are caricature artists that frequent fairs and draw your face with a pencil in a very stylized way. Well, these masks are specific to the Calabrian culture.

Nasocchio as he is called in Calabrian culture is a mask whose strange and unique glare is supposed to frighten away evil spirits, or what is commonly termed here the Malocchio or Evil Eye. The Italian Horn is meant to function in the same way, as are other strange artifacts in the culture. They are also meant to bring good fortune with their use.

Restaurants

Though we stayed here only for two nights, we still had occasion to visit three restaurants, all of which offered local Calabrian or Sicilian dishes.

Royal Bar

Not known for their food, we bought some drinks here for a quick rest. Nothing special, but the drinks were okay.

Diamante Rosso Tropea Ristorante

Here we had to try to local al ragu Arancini, or Sicilian breaded and conically shaped stuffed rice balls that are deep-fried. They were amazing, but usually always good, depending where you buy and how they are made. They can actually be purchased at most good local stores, cafes and some marketplaces and quickly heated up for a snack or meal.

Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante

At Le Volpe we ordered a pasta dish each and dessert. The Filey was freshly made and topped with Tropean Onions, which are deliciously sweet, when they are sautéed until they have that glassy look.

Palazzo Teotino Ristorante

This restaurant is housed in an old palazzo and has both indoor and outdoor seating. We sat indoor right in the foyer next to the stairwell. We came here for the Tropean Onion soup that they advertize and found it very rich and tasty. We can also commend the fried onion floret, you get about four when you order them, so enough to share.

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Sapri, Italy – Sunny Interlude

After our week in Naples where we took several days to visit the Amalfi Coast, we headed further south and stopped in Sapri. This was a scheduled visit to break up the trip and offer us a sunny interlude and a bit of repose before continuing to Tropea and later Reggio Calabria.

Sapri

Sapri is a small Italian town that is dominated by its stony beach. While there it was fairly vacant and deviod of other tourists. But there were plenty of restaurants open and we did enjoy that relaxing atmosphere and food.

The town itself is nothing to look at, but there are a few spots of interest, all of which were along the coastal area. Situated in the Gulf of Policastro it is surrounded by hills on all three sides. Luckily the train station is a short ten minute walk to and from the beach.

Getting There

There are several trains that run between Naples and Sapri. Perhaps the most convenient one will be the local, which stops at several points, but offers a bit more flexibility.

Our Hotel

We stayed at the Hotel Pisacane, a small botique style hotel right on the beach. Unfortunately with the exception of breakfast, the restaurant is closed until tourist season which starts in June. Luckily, that did not turn into an issue for us.

The Observatory

A very tall structure overlooking the Gulf of Policastro. It appears to celebrate eight renowned Italian scientist from astronomy, radio and meterology. It is located on the northern part of the beach, close to the Roman Villa Ruins.

Roman Villa Ruins

Partially perserved under a canopy, the Roman Villa ruins are also north of town and located close to the observatory. The observatory also has some roman ruins near it that appear to be an old roman cellar or other structure.

Restaurants

While in Sapri we ate at two good restaurants that were noteworthy. Both of which were for a late lunch. We prefer most of the time to eat a heavier lunch and just skip dinner altogether.

Tintobrace Ristorante

An upscale restaurant that offers Calabrian food and fine selection of local wines by the glass. I would recommend the Cacio and Pepe spaghetti.

Ristorante Lucifero

The Ristorante Lucifero is also a pizzeria and has great pizza and pasta specials. It is located in town and not on the beach and is a bit difficult to spot. Therefore, they have added signs along the way to assist.

I can commend the Aglianico from Paestum, Italy. Luigi Maffini’s Klèos comes in 50cl bottles and pairs perfectly with pasta and other tomato based dishes. I love Aglianico, it is a deep, clear, ruby wine with hints of plum, berry and dark fruit and is very tasty.

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Amalfi Coast, Italy – Part Three

Amalfi Coast

The second part of our first day was filled with visiting the town Amalfi on the eponymouos coast and Ravello,  a bit further away from the shore, but still part of the famous coastline. We joined our driver again, who drove the windy and treacherous coastal road between Positano and Amalfi, while we took the ferry to enjoy the coastline.

Getting There

To get to Amalfi, we took the ferry from Positano. It is a thirty minute boat ride along the coast, which when the weather cooperates provides beautiful scenery and a great occasion to take photographs.

To get to Ravello from Amalfi, you probably should use or hire a car. Since we were had hired a private tour guide for all day, we used the car to ascend the five kilometers up the coast to the town.

When we arrived, we took a photograph to remember the occasion.

Amalfi

Perhaps fourth best of all the towns along the coast is Amalfi. Some may be surprised, but that is based on our experience of most of the towns. There are many factors for this, including the terrible idea of using part of the waterfront as a parking area, instead of a boardwalk, or even another beach. Therefore, it comes after Positano, Vietri sul Mare[1]this town also has coastal parking, but here it works because it is part of a boardwalk and beach complex. and Ravello.

It does have a beautiful cathedral, which unfortunately was closed at the time of our visit.

The town has the customary narrow stairs, stairways, alleyways and tunnels, providing a reprieve from the hot summer days for travelers. There are also some interesting fountains in Amalfi, one actually has a cute little diorama built into it of little character, shepards and animals, along with the customary goldfish swimming below.

Ravello

Unlike most other towns along the coast, Ravello kind of stood out. Not only is it more relaxing, since it is obviously visited by fewer people, it is quieter and more laid back. This is most likely due to its smaller size, its elevation and distance from the coast.

Some find it a better alternative than Amalfi. For one, there are better views from the town, from where visitors can see Amalfi’s classic rocky coastline. Plus the relaxed atmosphere adds to the pleasure, especially if you have time to sit and enjoy a drink, or have a gelato at one of the many artigianale gelaterias in the town.

Duomo di Revallo

The main church in town is the Duomo di Ravello, which was unfortunately closed while we were visiting, so the interior remains a mystery to us.

Villa Rufolo

For a small entrance fee you can visit Villa Rufolo in Ravello. The entrance shows some interesting designs and details, that continue in deeper parts of the villa.

The villa is rather simple, but has some interesting items, like an old stove and a tower. It is kept in relatively fine shape and is a pleasure to walk through.

Some of the external structures include a tower, a vaulted building that appears to have been an old chapel and some other old structures near the gardens.

It has a magnificent garden with a beautiful view of the sea. They actually hold concerts from the garden, by extending a stage over the side of the hill, providing a wonderful backdrop for music and other performances.

Restaurants

As part of our first day at the coast, we stopped in Amalfi for lunch some time after one in the afternoon.

Taverna Buonvicino

A very nice restaurant with a beautiful terrace outside, which is off the beaten path, so no worries about hordes of tourist bothering you while eating.

They also have a very good wine list which is stocked with local favorites. I can commend one varietal, Taurasi Lo Scudiero (DOCG), which was exceptionally good.

References

References
↑1 this town also has coastal parking, but here it works because it is part of a boardwalk and beach complex.
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Amalfi Coast, Italy – Part One

Amalfi Coast

On our first day to the Amalfi Coast, we were fortunate enough to be able to use the train service to get to Vietri sul Mare. Though in hindsight we probably should have used the longer, though more direct regional service, we opted instead for the faster option and had to change trains three times! Don’t make that mistake.

Vietri sul Mare

Vietri sul Mare is one of the small towns that comprise the Amalfi Coast. It is also known as the gateway to the coast, the rest are accessible only by car, bus or possibly boat, there is no continuing train service beyond Vietri sul Mare.

The town is known for its glassware and ceramic factories and shops. Here you will find of plethora of shops selling all sorts of tiles, porcelain and other types of ceramics for use in the house and as decoration.

The town is small enough to easily visit within a day. We only needed a few hours to cover the entire town, even walking down from the train station, which luckily has an elevator to bring you down most of the way. However, it should be noted, you will have to walk several hundred meters downhill to reach the beach and then up again. Like the other coastal towns, it is built on a very steep hillside.

Getting There

To get to Vietri sul Mare, we had to take two trains from Naples. First, we took a regional train to Napoli Centrale, since the metro was not working. Then we took another train to Solerno. After about a ten minute layover, we took a regional train then to Vietri sul Mare.

For our return, we decided to take regional train back, since it offered a longer, but more direct option to the Piazza Amadeo station by our hotel, removing the need for us to get off and change trains.

Ceramic Tiled Houses

The town is full of tiled shops and buildings. Most of the shop owners tile their entrances as part decoration and part advertisement.

Case Colorate

Perhaps the only house specifically known for its on-going construction and colorful use of tiles. Even when we were there, they seem to be embarking on some new expenditure, both inside and out.

Two Brothers

The Two Brothers are apparently from local legend, since when you finally see them, there are not two of them. In any case, it makes for an interesting backdrop for a photograph.

Restaurants

Since this was a day trip, we had time for lunch. Although we did have a few restaurants in mind, the following we found serendipitously.

Sole di Vietri

A small restaurant, comparable to a trattoria that serves very good food. Seating outside is limited and might be an issue during the summer months, when it is very busy.

The menu offers daily specials and real home cooking, Italian style. You will find dishes derived from local cuisine, as well as some neopalitan and Italian favorites.

However, all meals should end in a nice glass of Limonchello, a favorite and local specialty.

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Naples, Italy – Our Brief Return

Recently we made a decision to return to Naples, if only to use it as a launch point to visit the Amalfi Coast. It was a brief return to enjoy the food and some of the sites we fell in love with four years ago.

Naples

When we travel to Naples, we usually stay in Chiaia. It is an upscale and slightly newer part of Naples that offers a bit more quiet and relief from the tourist activity in the center. It also offers a furnicular to Vomero, which can be used to hop over to the Spanish Quarter, as well as great metro and regional train service.

Getting There

We took the FrecciaRossa TrenItalia service from Torino’s Porta Nuova. It takes about six hours and makes about just as many stops along the way. We normally purchase or make sandwiches for such trips, so that we may enjoy the trip without getting overly hungry.

Hotel Pinto Storey

Again, we booked the Pinto Storey hotel in Chiaia. A simple, quiet three star hotel occupying one floor by the Piazza Amadeo. It is a very convenient place to stay, because there is the metro and regional train stop in the Piazza, which gives you quick access to the entire city and beyond.

The Spanish Quarter

We visited the Spanish Quarter before and see that there is much more activity here now, since we were last here at the end of the pandemic. It is worth a walk through if you have never been here and there seem to be several streets now that have active stores and street vendors on them.

Centro

The center part of the city has not changed a bit. The central shopping street is just a busy as when we were here last time. A stroll up the christmas street is also a must if you come for a visit.

Voremo

One our way back to Chiaia we took the furnicular up to Voremo to get a few photographs of Monte Somma and Vesuvius. They do not cost much and provide an easy means for getting around the more difficult parts of the city.

Restaurants

We came to Naples having only one restaurant on our list of places we wanted to visit. Any others were based on proximity or a quick search for a place to eat. However, half of the time we were here, we didn’t even eat dinner. Preferring rather to enjoy a large lunch at our day trip destinations instead.

Osteria Pignatelli

A highly rated restaurant, that for all intents and purposes you should call for a reservation, since it tends to get very busy. The interior is appealing and fairly modern. The food is very good as well. Perhaps not the best I have had in Naples, but equal to the Michelin stars they have earned.

Portico Pizzeria é Trattoria

On Via dei Tribunali is the Portico Pizzeria é Trattoria. We stopped here for lunch and enjoyed a nice meal at surprisingly reasonable prices for this part of the city. The service was timely and the food was very good, so it is commendable.

Pizzeria Staiano Dal 1964

This is a small family own trattoria that specializes in pizza. They also have a menu that changes each day, which contains a nice selection of local specialities.

We were luck enough to visit twice, so that we could try both the pizza and the pasta dishes.

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Luino, Italy – Lacking Service

A popular tourist destination for the Swiss, Germans and Netherlanders is the small town of Luino on the northeast end of Lake Maggiore. The boat services on the lake are divided here for destinations north of it and south of it. From the south, especially from Stresa, it is difficult, if not impossible, to arrange a roundtrip to this town except on wednesdays. Even to get here by train is a three to five hour ordeal and roundtrips by rail or bus are all but out of the question. The town is truely lacking service from the southern end of the lake.

Luino

It seems a popular destination for people from the north, who are either staying in Switzerland or the nearby town of Cannobio. It is especially busy on Wednesdays, this is when the town holds its weekly market. [1]Proportedly the largest in Europe, but that is not possible. The one in Turin far eclipses it in size and weekly frequency, being open every day and not just the middle of the week.

At one time the town was heavily industrialized and there were many textile factories here, which accounted for the terrible pollution the lake had to endure for years after its demise. Luckily today, the lake has considerably cleaner water that in the previous century.

Getting There

From the north, the map shows all traffic by boat going through Cannobio. From the south, we took the boat from Stresa. From there we stopped a half dozen times before reaching our destination.

It should be noted, if you are traveling from the south and want to go further than Luino, you can, you just may have to change boats in Luino.

From Stresa the trip is not inexpensive to Luino. For roundtrip tickets it cost us €15.20 per person[2]or about $18 per person.

Church of Saints Peter and Paul

A walk through the town and above most if, you will find the Church of Saints Peter and Paul. An unusual church which looks more like an administrative building than a church.

The inside does have some marble, but the rest of the nave and ceiling are painted in the style trompe-l’œil, giving the impression of relief where none really exists.

Restaurants

When we arrived in Luino, we only had three hours before our boat trip back, so we had to make good use of our time. Subsequently, we looked for a place to eat first and chose the Trattoria da Elia e Ugo.

Trattoria da Elia e Ugo

A small restaurant that caters to locals and tourists alike. They speak very good english, so there should be no problem with the language; they are even willing to look words up in order to make sure they have the correct word.

The food is very good and well portioned. The caprese is rather large and good enough for two. The pasta dishes are also fairly large and well seasoned.

Aside from the popular marketplace on wednesdays and the odd historical monument, there really is not much to see in Lunio. Coming from the south, it can only be commended for the odd day trip with lunch as the primary reason for the expedition, since it is rather far away and the boat service only runs roundtrip on wednesday, so plan accordingly.

References

References
↑1 Proportedly the largest in Europe, but that is not possible. The one in Turin far eclipses it in size and weekly frequency, being open every day and not just the middle of the week.
↑2 or about $18 per person
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Domodossola, Italy – Easter Pilgrimage

Kind of by luck and definitely by accident, we made our own religious pilgrimage on Easter Sunday. Our pre-planned trip was always to visit Domodossola, but only included our walk up the Via Calvario as an aside, or suggestion, if we had time. It ended up being the perfect event on a near perfect day, at least with respect to the weather.

Domodossola

A large city at the top edge of Italy with Switzerland. It is the last stop on the train line from Italy into its neighboring country. It is an odd mix of new with some very old parts. The streets are very clean and well maintained. Some of the buildings date back to Columbus’ day and actually look it.

The city has the usual fountains and piazzas. Since it was a holiday, all museums and other tourist related buildings and facilities were closed. However, we did find some shops and restaurants that would normally be closed on a Sunday, open.

Getting There

We took one of the Regional Express trains from Stresa and we were there within a half an hour. Unexpectedly, we were stopped by police inside the train station after we got off the train. I guess it was probably because there were no other IC or EC trains going into Switzerland, so they had nothing better to do. They asked me for my travel documents and luckily I had my new wallet sized US passport. They took a photograph of it, exclaimed that it was the first time they saw one and let me pass. My wife told them all she had was a driver’s license, but the quickly looked at her and said no problem, go through. Yeah, they don’t profile in Italy. So, if you are traveling close to the Swiss border in Italy, bring your passport and travel documents, you never know, you might be stopped!

Monte Calvario

To see the fifteen chapels and stations of the cross, you have to climb Monte Calvario. You arrive at the mount by the Via Calvario, a street which can be found off the Via Matterella.

The first thing you will see is a small church or chapel with a large sign explaining the origins, history and design of the entire idea.

A bit further down this road will be the start of the Via Calvario. At first, the first four chapels come fast and furious.

 

Once the road starts to incline, it might be better to walk on the flat pavement stones in the middle, or the outer edges if you have to, because after a short while the vertically set stones will take a toll on your feet.

Then the incline increases and it takes a bit longer to get to the next four. But, our weather was extremely pleasant, sunny and in the middle sixty degrees Fahrenheit.

Once you have reached the eigth station, you are more on less on the top of the mount. Here you will find the remaining four, eight, nine, ten and eleven.

The twelfth and thirteenth are actually in the Church of the Holy Crucifix. A beautiful little church and chapel with real candles that may be lit for prayers.

The remaining stations are outside again. We only managed to find the fifteenth station, since it is right next to an overview of the city. The other, was below by the cafe, which we had no interest at that point in visiting.

Restaurants

After walking the city for about an hour, we found a bistro for lunch. We only order salads and cannot say much about the quality of their steak, which seems to be their primary offering. However, had we known better, there was a quaint little Osteria not far from there that was actually serving an Easter dinner, with lamb and all usual italian side dishes. Oh well, our loss.

With this post we will note that we have seen a marked increase in restaurant prices. Not only for food, but drinks as well. Perhaps not exspensive as the States, but they are getting up there.

Restaurant Bistro Steak House

As a Insalata Greco goes, they were okay. About medium in size and they didn’t have a lot of Feta cheese on them, so the owner is a bit cheap. But the food was okay and not terribly expensive. I would say, if you have time, find somewhere else, but the food is fine otherwise, though you may find the service more than lacking, especially after you receive your food.

Another good tip, at least for here, but we have seen it elsewhere too. If you are done and have already told them so, get up and go to the bar (Cassa) and pay, don’t wait for them to come back. You may sprout some new grey hairs if you do.

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Stresa, Italy – Spring Jaunt

Enjoying the beautiful weather in Turin, we looked at each other one day and exclaimed it was time to go somewhere local again. Seeing a weather prediction of rain about a week and half out, we decided to travel to Stresa and Lake Maggiore for our Easter weekend. Little did we know, everyone else in Italy, France and Germany was thinking the same thing! So be warned, Easter may be a very busy weekend on the lake.

Stresa

We have been in Stresa before and enjoyed it thoroughly the last time. We rebooked the same hotel for five nights and left Turin, destined for new adventures in this beautiful lake area.

Getting There

From Turin we took the Freccia Rossa from Torino Porta Nuovo to Milan Rho-Fiera and then one of the Regional Express trains to Stresa for a total trip time of about two hours.

Where We Stayed

We stayed at the Regina Palace Hotel again, since we had such a good time on our previous visit. From there we were able to witness a forest fire that broke out on the other side of the lake. It burned for two days and was finally put out with the help of helicopters.

Regina Palace Hotel

Unfortunately, our booking put us in a rather large room, number 115, which was located right above the bar and almost directly in front of the main stairwell. The noise on our first evening was ridiculous and I did not get to sleep until some time after twelve.

The bar plays music from seven in the evening until midnight, and the later it got, the louder it got. So the next morning, I had our room moved to one of the extremities of the hotel, which was much quieter and overall much more enjoyable.

Lungolago

Stresa has a beautiful boardwalk along the lake. It winds its way along the western side, all the way down to Piazzale Lido, another boat launch on the lake. There is only one short stretch you have to walk along the road, which is where the Borromeo estates are located, since they have complete lake access. Other than that, it’s a fine walk to enjoy the view and take photographs.

Restaurants

Since we have been to Stresa before, our concentration was more on day trips from the location, rather than visiting the city itself. However, we were able to enjoy some restaurants and cafes while we were here.

Il Vicoletto Ristoranti

A typical italian restaurant that serves fine food. The service is good and the meals are well portioned and taste great.

The desserts are exceptional, from the Almond Torte to the Panna Cotta, and commendable.

Al Buscion

More of a cafe or bistro, this little place has something for everyone. It is one of the few places in Stresa, where you will find more than one kind of soup being served. It is more known for its charcuterie boards and paninis, than anything else, though we never had the chance to order one.

La Piola

If you like finer dining, then look no further than La Piola.

We thoroughly enjoyed the food here, though we didn’t order any dessert. The pasta dish was excellent and very tasty, and Patti enjoyed here Chicken Cutlet as well.

El Gato Negro Cafe

We stopped at El Gato Negro for a late lunch and glad we did. They have very tasty soups, salads and sandwiches at very reasonable prices. The pastrami sandwich, though not like pastrami in the States, was delicious. It had an exceptional dressing on it that complimented the tomatoes, lettuce and pastrami to perfection.

Il Centrale

Though inside the city a bit, it is more of a tourist trap restaurant than any of the other ones we have patronized. If you are looking for something to eat, you cannot go wrong here, but it is definitely nothing special.

The food is okay and the service is a bit slow. But for what you get, we found them a bit pricey and the coperto[1]This is a cover charge in Italy. It is suppose to offset the fee of table linens, cutlery, napkins, etc., and is applied unevenly throughout the country. It will most often be found in tourist areas, … Continue reading was a bit high for our liking.

References

References
↑1 This is a cover charge in Italy. It is suppose to offset the fee of table linens, cutlery, napkins, etc., and is applied unevenly throughout the country. It will most often be found in tourist areas, where the establishments can get away with charging it. If so, DO NOT leave a tip, you’re covered.