Known for balsamic vinegar, it also has a variety of other things to see and enjoy. Though we both couldn’t see spending more than a day here, unless of course the purpose is using it as a homebase for day trips elsewhere. The irony of it all is, you would think we would have at least tried balsamic while we were here, we did not.
Via Cesare Battista – Modena, Italy
Modena
Famously known for balsamic, Modena contains a few other points of interest, it twelfth century cathedral, as well as its own leaning tower. It has a market place, similar to other Italian towns and cities, which is actually inside for the most part and appears to function every day. The main street for shopping is most likely via Emilia Centro, it has porticos on one side and appears to have all the brand name shop one would expect to see.
Corso Vittorio Emanuelle II – Modena, Italy
Military Academy of Modena – Modena, Italy
Via Emilia Centro – Modena, Italy
Via Emilia Centro – Modena, Italy
Via Emilia Centro – Modena, Italy
Preda Ringadora – Modena, Italy
Getting There
Thirty to forty minutes from Parma by train, Modena can be reached with only a few stops along the way for the regional train, or one stop if the InterCity train is used as an option. The train station in Modena and spartan and clean, as well as the neighborhood around it.
Entrance – Train Station – Modena, Italy
Comunale Palazzo
A civic building known as the Comunale Palazzo, was used in the past by the town council for official business and ceremonies. Outside and to the left of it, is the Preda Ringadora, a large piece of marble from Roman times used as a speaker’s platform; its present day means to “orate”. However, historians also say it was likely used as a pillory and also used to identify corpses which were laid out on it. In any case, it is commonly used today as a seat and a place of repose.
Preda Ringadora – Modena, Italy
It is open and free to the public and has a handful of rooms that may be visited, which contain frescoes.
Clock Tower and Front – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Stairs to Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
The palazzo is best known for its Hall of Fire. It is a term of endearment, assigned to it by the public to indicate that it was the hall containing the fireplace where back in the day, they could collect hot coals to warm themselves on the street during cold winter evenings. However, it is better known for the paintings that adorn the ceiling and walls that are the most impressive. Painted in the middle sixteenth century by Nicolò dell’Abate which depict episodes in Roman history that affected Modena as a town and city.
Frescoes in the Hall of Fire – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Frescoes in the Hall of Fire – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Fresco on Fireplace in the Hall of Fire – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Frescoes in the Hall of Fire – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Old Door and Iron Hinges in the Hall of Fire – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Fireplace in the Hall of Fire – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
The Council Hall is where meetings would be held with respect to the town’s business. Electors would assemble here to discuss important matters of the day, planning and other administrative tasks.
Ceiling in the Hall of the Old Council – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Ceiling in the Hall of the Old Council – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Meeting Table in the Hall of the Old Council – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Hall of the Old Council – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
There are also a Tapestry and a Wedding Hall. Neither is of any great import, except for the paintings that adorn each.
Ceiling – Wedding Hall – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Organ – Wedding Hall – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
At the back entrance to the palazzo is a statue of Perseus holding the severed head of Medusa. It can be seen directly by way of the back entrance stairwell. Or, when the back entrance doors are open, it can be seen from the street flanked on either side by old maps of Modena.
Back Stairs to Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Back Stairs to Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Perseus with the head of Medusa – Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Fortification Map of Modena – Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Old Map of Modena – Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Civic Tower
Located adjacent to the cathedral is the Civic Tower. Yes, the Civic Tower leans and not by a little, a lot. Comparable to those leaning towers in Bologna and Pisa it’s not that impressive, but it is very noticeable when judged from a distance, using other buildings as a reference.
Civic Tower – Modena, Italy
Cathedrals and Churches
Cathedral of Modena
The Cathedral of Modena, or precisely Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption and Saint Geminianus[1]Saint Germinianus is Modena’s patron saint and who’s tomb, dating back to the fifth century, was part of one of the original churches erected on the same site., or colloquially and affectionately known as Il Duomo as in other Italian towns and cities. The main entrance has several tympanums above each door, depicting the biblical stories of Adam and Eve.
Front and Entrance – Cathedral of Modena – Modena, Italy
From outside it appears to have been rebuilt several times, many of the blocks that make up the facade of the structure do not match in many places. Though odd, the outside follows typical Romanesque architecture, with semi-circular arches that are filled in with brick and other appointments, with the exception of the large Piazza Portal on the north side, which almost functions as the main entrance.
Right Side – Cathedral of Modena – Modena, Italy
Cathedral of Modena and Civic Tower – Modena, Italy
The cathedral lacks a dome, instead having parapets on each of the four corners. It is sectioned in four places, reveals at the roof level as wall extending upwards, which coincide with the four internal arches for the nave. The inside is rather plain and mainly composed of bare brick. At the time we were there, a service was being held, limiting our ability to take more photographs.
Nave – Cathedral of Modena – Modena, Italy
Aisle – Cathedral of Modena – Modena, Italy
Restaurants
For our day trip, we ate at a local place right off the Piazza Grande which promised to have good food at a fair price.
Enoteca Al Duomo
We ate lunch here on recommendations that we read online. Our seating was inside, since the temperature outside was starting to become a bit annoying. The food and service were good and we spent an enjoyable hour discussing Modena and what else, if anything, there was to see in the city.
Interior – Enoteca Al Duomo – Grande Piazza – Modena, Italy
Insalata Mista and Tagliatella Bolognese – Enoteca Al Duomo – Grande Piazza – Modena, Italy
Il Pilotta
Located in our hotel, Hotel Stendhal in Parma, we enjoyed our last meal in the area at La Pilotta. The Cappelletti is broth is common for this area and can be commended. Our main dishes were Italian in general and good, though I did not care for the stuffing in the pork tip. The menu said it was potato, but it tasted more like a polenta or some other grain and it had an odd taste for me.
Cappelletti in Broth – La Pilotta Restaurant – Stendhal Hotel – Parma, Italy
Eggplant Parmigiana – La Pilotta Restaurant – Stendhal Hotel – Parma, Italy
Stuffed Pork Tip with Potatoes – La Pilotta Restaurant – Stendhal Hotel – Parma, Italy
Saint Germinianus is Modena’s patron saint and who’s tomb, dating back to the fifth century, was part of one of the original churches erected on the same site.
Since we like to travel at a slower pace, we tend to stay longer in towns and cities we visit, even if the stay may be unwarranted. This gives us a better feel for the places we have visited, but then you run the risk of running out of things to do. When this happens, we visit churches, the odd museum or other eccentric distractions that typically wouldn’t come up on a visitor’s radar. Here are a few examples.
Distractions in Parma
Teatro Regio
The Regio Theater is situated on Garibaldi just past the Pilotta on the right. Tickets may be purchased directly from them, however there are only guided tours in any one of several languages.
Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Tickets For Two – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Lobby – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
The outside and entrance are rather plain and nothing compared to La Scala or other prominent theaters in Italy. However, it does have a very critical local audience that only excepts high standards and sticking to tradition. So event organizers must plan carefully, lest to lose the wrath of the local perfectionists.
Box Seating Left – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Box Seating Right – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Ceiling Details
Ceiling Details – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Box Seating Left – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
View from Box Seat – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Box Seating from Stage – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Main Seating – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Originally decorated in the color blue, it has since been redesigned and redecorated by the Duchess Marie Louise of Parma in red. The walls are covered in box seats. When the duchess was still alive, the first floor seating, on the same level as the duchess’ box seat, were the most expensive. The very top level has no box seating, but rather standing room only for the commoner who could purchase a cheaper ticket and at least stand and hear the performances. The floor seating, though now the most expensive, were the cheaper seats in her day.
Chandelier in Box Seat of the Duke and Duchess – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Smaller Chandelier in Ante Room – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Marie Louise Duchess of Parma – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Duke – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
The box seating is nothing special, they actually look rather uncomfortable. Each used to be paired with an out room, where the ticket holder could throw a small party, bring something to eat and enjoy, or engage in other activities. The box seats and ancillary room across the hall used to be privately owned. Now the owners have been divested of the box seating, but still hold ownership rights to this ancillary rooms, which they cannot use unless they are in attendance. An odd arrangement that the theater owner, city and box seat owners agreed to some time ago, in order to prevent the theater from going bankrupt.
Hallway – Box Seating Right, Extra Rooms Left – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Typical Box Seat – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Typical Ancillary Rooms – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Churches and Cathedrals
Parma, as any Italian city, is host to numerous churches and cathedrals. The most important and interesting ones we found follow.
Parma Cathedral
The Romanesque architecture of the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, also known as the Parma Duomo or the Cathdral of Parma, must be on anyone’s list of places to visit in Parma. The ceiling by Correggio warrants a good ten to twenty minute inspection.
Facade and Tower – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Main Entrance and Right Lion – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Main Entrance and Left Lion – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Nave Frescoes and Ceiling – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Nave – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Nave Frescoes and Ceiling – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Aisle Ceiling – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
The nave is decorated by numerous frescoes and art of the twelfth century and depict the stories of faith that were common at that time.
Nave – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Madonna Side Altar in Transept – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Altar – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Altar, Organ and Crossing Ceilings – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Organ – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Ceiling in Crossing – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Left Aisle with Confessionals – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Main Entrance Frescoes – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Nave Frescoes – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Nave Frescoes and Ceiling – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Nave Frescoes and Ceiling – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Marquetry in Bishop Pews – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Each aisle contains about six chapels, decorated and commemorated to different aspects of the faith, some used more than others.
Chapel 1 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 2 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 3 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 6 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 4 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 5 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 7 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 8 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 9 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 10 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 11 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Side Altar and Transept – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Parma Baptistry
Adjacent to the Cathedral of Parma is the Baptistry. From the outside it is a rather tall eight side building that is elegantly carved on the outside with many different depictions of creatures and people, some flaunting animal appendages, while others appear almost mythological.
Piazza Duomo – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta and Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Front and Main Entrance – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
The main entrance faces northward and is adorned with a tympanum and other decorations, much like westward facing entrance. The rear entrance is less attactive and not as ornate as the other two, for reasons unknown.
Tympanum and Right Side Entry Details Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Tympanum and Left Side Entry Details Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Marble Relief Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Marble Relief Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Marble Relief Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Marble Relief Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Marble Relief Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Marble Relief Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
From the inside, the Baptistry appears as a sixteen sided room with the font in the middle of the space. Each of the walls has a fresco on it and other architectural details. The ceiling is frescoed as well as a series of sixteen triangular paintings.
Today there is a collection of artistic statues placed along some of the walls, depicting the two seasons of Winter and Summer, as well as all of the months of the year.
Winter and Spring – Statues – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
May, April and March – Statues – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
August, July and June – Statues – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
November, October and September – Statues – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
February, January and December – Statues – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Church of San Giovanni Evangelista
Under construction at the time, the church exhibits the fanciful, if not frustrating looks of a construction site so familiar to those who travel Europe.
Facade – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Nave Floor – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Altar – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Even the interior lacked lighting, so it was difficult to see much, let alone take decent photographs.
Aisle – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Aisle and Side Chapels – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Transept Chapel – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Nave and Altar – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Transept Chapel and Organ – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Small Chapel off Left Transept – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Complex of San Paolo
Not far from the intersection of Strada G. Garibaldi and Strada Macedonio Melloni is the complex of San Paolo. There are signs near the street by the entrance, but you have to walk a wooded entry some distance before reaching the ticket office. There you can purchase tickets for both the Rooms of San Paolo and the Puppet Museum.
Entrance – Complex of San Paolo – Parma, Italy
Rooms of Saint Paul
Better known as the Camera di San Paolo, the rooms in this museum are part of the Benedictine Monestary that stood on this spot starting in the 11th century.
Tickets For Two – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Frescoes in Smaller Room – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Frescoes in Smaller Room – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Frescoes in Smaller Room – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Frescoes in Smaller Room – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Statue – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Old Ceiling – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Aging Frescoes – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Old Frescoes – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Old Frescoes – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Entrance Fresco of Last Supper – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
In one room, the frescoes painted on the walls and ceilings are from one of the areas famous painters, Correggio, and were done sometime in the 16th century.
Correggio’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Correggio’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Correggio’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Correggio’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Correggio’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Fireplace Inscription – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
The museum also has a vaulted frescoed ceiling from Alessandro Araldi dedicated to Saint Catherine.
Alessandro Araldi’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Alessandro Araldi’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Alessandro Araldi’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Alessandro Araldi’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Alessandro Araldi’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Inscription over Fireplace – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Fireplace – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Lintel Inscription and Fine Doors – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum
Founded by Italo Ferrari, a peasant and apprentice shoemaker, turned his love of puppetry and puppeteering into an obsession. After failing several times in his twenties and thirties, he took on other jobs to support himself. It wasn’t until he perfected his art after the turn of the century and his repertoire from only tragedies, but to also include comedies and variety acts, was he able to devote full time and energy to his passion.
Entrance – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Small Portable Stage – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 18 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 11 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Puppets at Entry – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Information – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
He died in 1961 at the ripe old of 84, after having several successful radio and tv presentations. From then on, his son Giordano took up his mantel and later rebranded the act as the Ferrari Company, not to be confused with the eponymous car manufacturer.
Example of Details – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
It is with the wish or his son and family to preserve this important social and artful legacy, that the family was finally able to secure funding and the means to open this museum. The museum even hosts events and of course, puppet shows, however only when the current company is not touring internationally. The shows are mainly geared around fairy tales and other fables, especially tales around good and bad people, including everyone’s favority, the devil.
Display 3 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 4 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 5 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 6 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 7 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 12 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 9 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 10 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Some of the puppets they have at their disposal seem to also indicate a predilection for the Zanni, having representations of the characters Harlequin[1]He is the dockworker, the porter, the pimp, the good servant, simple in manner and mind, who gets into trouble and is always hungry. This is Harlequin. He derives from the figure of the Zanni, the … Continue reading, Pulcinello[2]Pulcinella is both good and bad, rude and sometimes affected. Unlike Harlequin, a “sidekick,” but manages to be independent on stage, competing even with only one antagonist at a time. … Continue reading and other Commedia dell’Arte puppets.
Display 1 – Pulcinello in lower right in white – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 2 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 24 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 25 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 26 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 27 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Carving – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Old Advertisements – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Small Portable Stage – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display of Circuits Used for Stages – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Restaurants
Uagliò Restaurant
A smaller chain restaurant with a few stores around the area, Uagliò is not a bad pick if you are in a hurry or have not made other plans. We were hungry for lunch, so we stopped to see what they had to offer. The pasta with meatballs in sauce was very good, as was the small mixed salad. There was plenty of seating inside and out.
Mixed Salad and Paccheri with Tomato Sauce and Meatballs, Tuna salad in back – Uaglio Restaurant – Parma, Italy
He is the dockworker, the porter, the pimp, the good servant, simple in manner and mind, who gets into trouble and is always hungry. This is Harlequin. He derives from the figure of the Zanni, the jester of comic tales documented as early as the 14th century. From the Zanni, Harlequin retains the frank character and natural propensity for mischief. Harlequin’s costume, known by all as the most colorful of masks, was initially white and tattered; for this reason, first a patch was added, then another, until the outfit was multi-colored diamonds. This is how we see him in 17th-century theater. His appearance is clumsy and stocky, the black half-mask he wears is animalistic, and on his head he wears a white felt hat topped with a feather or a rabbit’s foot. The feather is a symbol of fertility and the rabbit is a symbol of cunning. From his belt hangs the baòcio, the polenta stirring stick, which serves as his sword. He also has a bump on his forehead, which some believe to be the remnants of a devil’s horn. The name Harlequin, in fact, recalls that of a devil. Alichino is the devil mentioned by Dante in the Divine Comedy.
Pulcinella is both good and bad, rude and sometimes affected. Unlike Harlequin, a “sidekick,” but manages to be independent on stage, competing even with only one antagonist at a time. Pulcinella wears a white shirt with a gathered waist, white trousers with a belt, a white felt conical hat, and a half-mask with a large, slightly hooked nose. The costume is similar to that worn by peasants since the Middle Ages; they are made out of hemp, the cheapest home-woven fiber, and no color to avoid the cost of dye. Pulcinella is a poor man. These masks form the original core of the Commedia dell’Arte.
Approximately two to two and a half hours away from our place in Turin is the city of Parma. Known for ham, cheese and other delicacies in the region, we had been wanting to go there for some time. Our recent visit was for us full of surprises, including the Pilotta Museum Complex, which was a pleasure for us and central to this post.
Parma
At first we were not too sure about the city. Our first impressions, and to some extent our lasting ones as well, is that it is laid out in a chaotic fashion, even for an Italian town. The mixture of new and old on the outskirts is not very pleasing to the eye and is kind of takes away from the central historic part of the city, which frankly is not very large.
Palazzo Tarasconi – Parma, Italy
Palazzo Bossi Bocchi – Parma, Italy
Governor’s Palace – Parma, Italy
The Parma river as well, suffers from drought and over-irrigation, a mere trickle of its former self. Called a torrente in Italian, or torrent, one can only wonder when the last time the river actually enjoyed that much water.
Torrente Parma – Ponte Caprazucca – Parma, Italy
Torrente Parma – Ponte Caprazucca – Parma, Italy
Torrente Parma – Ponte Caprazucca – Parma, Italy
Ponte Verdi – Parma, Italy
The city does not suffer from tourism and we found the historic parts very pleasant to walk around. There is not much to see, hence our reason for visiting the museums, which we found different and interesting.
We took the FrecciaRossa train from Turin to Milan, then the Regional from Milan to Parma. The regional trains make more stops than the high speed trains, taking an extra half hour to make the hour long trip by high speed rail. The good news is, there are options between Milan and Parma, from FrecciaRossa, Italo, TrenItalia FTP to TrenNord and perhaps more. Our selection was based on scheduling and nothing else.
Strada Cavour
The main street for shopping in the city. It was about a ten minute walk from our hotel and winds its way through the older part of the city, though all of the businesses are modern. You will find all the modern, trendy and chain-like stores here, along with their inflated prices.
Strada Cavour – Parma, Italy
Strada Cavour – Parma, Italy
Strada Cavour – Parma, Italy
Strada Cavour – Parma, Italy
Hotel Stendhal
We stayed at the Hotel Stendhal, a fifteen minute direct walk from the train station. Though we read some concerning reviews on some travel sites, we did not have any issues at all and had the most enjoyable stay. The staff was great and we never had to ask for anything. We had a large superior room on the side of the hotel which was very quiet and comfortable, along with a complimentary breakfast.
Outside Our Hotel – Cortile del Guazzatoio – Parma, Italy
Entrance – Hotel Stendhal – Parma, Italy
Foyer – Hotel Stendhal – Parma, Italy
Pilotta Museum Complex
The Pilotta Museum Complex is the former Faranese Palace that now houses five or six museums, some of which were not open at the time of our visit.
Ponte Verdi – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Tickets For Two – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Entrance – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Parma
The archeological museum offers artifacts from the ancient history in and around Parma. Here are exhibits of the ancient civilizations of the Roman Empire, Greeks and Etruscans who inhabited the Po river valley and the surrounding area thousands of years ago.
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
The museum also has a display of ancient Roman tombs, including sarcophogy and examples of mummified remains.
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Farnese Theater
The Farnese Theater is actually a rather bizarre construction. Built within a very large room of the palace is a theater that was constructed quickly, in order to entertain some political majistrate of the Medici family. However, the event never took place and subsequent to it completion, it was only used eight or nine times.
It eventually succumbed to allied bombings in the mid 1940s and was almost completely destroyed and then rebuilt later, for cultural reasons. Though none of the plaster exterior has never been replaced, as is evident by the missing ceiling, it still enjoys a woddy charm. Luckily, the old frescoes survived and can still be seen today.
Backstage Elements – Farnese Theater – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Galleria Nazionale di Parma
The entrance to the National Gallery is flanked by two huge statues. One of Dionysus and the other or Hercules. They are both impressive in their own right, with the one of Hercules looking like it is right on the boundary of the human anatomy.
Hercules – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Dionysus – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
The rest of the gallery houses a myriad of large paintings in its large hall. Unfortunately there are no benches or seating to admire them, so one can only slowly walk by or stand in front of them for a bit, in order to admire them.
Main Room – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
As of this writing, the back of the gallery held the real prize for a visitor, a work by Leonardo da Vinci called the head of a woman, or “La Scapiliata”. One can see similarities with her face and that of the Mona Lisa, which was painted some time after and is now in the Louvre in Paris, France.
Head of a Woman “La Scapiliata” – Leonardo da Vinci, Vinci, 1452 – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Madonna of the Bowl, Rest after the Return from Egypt – Antonio Allegri detto il Correggio, 1489 – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Palatina Library
The Palatina Library is a large library that is still functioning, although for academic and research purposes only. However, the Petitot Gallery is still open to the public, where one can find a wide variety of topics, mostly in Italian of course.
Art Exhibits in Entrance – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
One Hall – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Old Books – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Side Hall – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
The Bodoni Museum
Anyone who has taken typesetting in school would enjoy the Bodoni Museum. The museum honors the famous Parma typesetter and printer, Giambattista Bodoni, and his eponymous typeface as well. The Bodoni typeface was a favorite of mine in high school, where I learned the intricacies of setting type. I loved its clean lines and serifs, using it to print a set of invitations for my mother at one time[1]To use the museum’s own words, “The severe, neoclassical imprint of the letters, characterized by the stark contrast between the thickness of the strokes and the thinness of the lines and … Continue reading.
Bodoni Bust and Painting – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Printing Press – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Stories of Punching and Printing – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Typesetting Examples – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Typesetting Examples – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Restaurants
You will find most of the non-industrial restaurants away from the main shopping street of Strada Cavour. Reservations are recommended, even for lunch, for these are often used by locals and the business crowd. Most of the Osterias and Trattorias serve wine by the tap in quarter, half and full liter sizes, whereas the corporate restaurants on Cavour serve only by the glass, so they can up-charge for it, like in the United States.
Osteria dei Servi
The Osteria dei Servi is actually housed under the Viale Giovanni Mariotti and has a rather odd entrance. But don’t let that fool you. The restaurant is actually quite nice inside and comfortable. The food is excellent and typical for the area.
Entrance – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Inside – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Bar – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Patti – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Bread and Patti’s Dinner – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Ravioli – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Trattoria Corrieri Parma
Another fine local restaurant is the Trattoria Corrieri Parma. Located further down in the city and by a Parma University building, it offers great food at even lower prices than die Servi. We found the service similar and the menu full of local dishes for us to try.
To use the museum’s own words, “The severe, neoclassical imprint of the letters, characterized by the stark contrast between the thickness of the strokes and the thinness of the lines and serifs; the stark, epigraphic composition of the title pages and dedications; the airy, correct relationship between text and images, between line and line, between light and dark make Bodoni’s page a prodigy of harmony and readability.“
For a few days we enjoyed the company of our cousin Chris, who luckily was traveling for business in the area and was able to stop by for a visit.
Turin
Chris arrived on Friday and I met him at our main train station of Porta Nuova, which because it was coming from Naples and went through Rome, was late by about fifteen minutes.
Cousin Chris Arriving – Porta Nuova – Turin, Italy
For one entire Saturday, the 2nd of May, we were able to enjoy amazing weather and show Chris the city of Turin. One of our major stops was the Open Market in Piazza della Repubblica. There he purchased authentic Italian cheese to take back home with him. Other than that, we just made sure he enjoyed great food here and kept him as comfortable as possible in our apartment for a few days.
Patti and Chris – Giolitti Apartment – Turin, Italy
Chris and Erick – Giolitti Apartment – Turin, Italy
Restaurants
It seemed like we spent more time in the restaurants, trattoria and cafes, than we did walking around. We made a point of it to take him to our two favorite restaurants nearby, which I am happy to say we had reservations for, given the fact the city was packed with people for the Jazz Festival in Turin.
Trattoria D’Agata
Our favorite Trattoria for authentic Silician cuisine is the Trattoria D’Agata in Turin. Here we always enjoy good food, their Arancini are to die for, and good wine.
Chris and Patti talking food – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy
Arancini and Baked Mozzarella – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy
Patti’s Pasta alla Norma – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy
Patate al Forno and Filetta with Pistachios – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy
la Luna Barbera from Alba – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy
Porto di Savona
Another favorite of ours for Piemontese cuisine is the Porta di Savona. Since the weather was so exceptional and it was lunch we sat outside. Located in the corner of the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, we essentially sat on the edge of the rest of chaos going on in the piazza, it was very busy.
Tajarin with Cheese Sauce and Insalata Mista – Porto di Savona Ristorant – Turin, Italy
Chris – Porto di Savona Ristorant – Turin, Italy
We had a great time and we are sure Chris did too!
If anyone travels all the way down to the very tip of Italy they will discover Reggio Calabria, a Calabrian city with all the classic touches of Southern Italy. Offshore, you will see the ever present Mount Etna smoking in the background.
Mount Aetna – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Getting There And Back
To get there we took TrennItalia’s Calabrian Regional train service from Tropea. Approximately a two hour train ride that eventually hugs the coast and offers a preview of the Italian island of Sicily.
Our First View of Sicily – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy
Messina Ferry – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy
Coming Into Reggio Calabria – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy
To get back we used Reggio Calabria’s airport, where RyanAir offers direct service to Turin’s Caselle Airport. Another trip just short of two hours which also hugs the coast of Italy and also offers views of Sardinia and other prominent points of interest from the air.
Reggio Calabria Airport – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Reggio Calabria
The official name for the city is Reggio Calabria, but it is also known by its traditional names of Reggio di Calabria and just plain Reggio. The city was almost completely destroyed by an earthquake in the beginning of the last century and its more hopefully robust version has new amenities the former city lacked.
Boardwalk with Large Banyan Trees – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Large Banyan Trees – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Corso Garibaldi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Corso Garibaldi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Piazza d’Italia – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Piazza d’Italia – Reggio Calabria, Italy
If you love food, visit the shops along Corso Garibaldi. Many have interesting and local foods that you can bring home with you to enjoy, while you reminisce about your time in Calabria.
Calabrian Volcanic Spread – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Just up from our hotel and on the transformed via Giudecca street, is the eponymous stairway.
Giudecca Stairway – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Giudecca Stairway – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Giudecca Stairway – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Torrine Hotel
On the edge of the older and more vibrant part of the city, the Torrine Hotel is about four blocks from the waterfront. This is just as well, since it provides a quieter place to stay, with the exception being rush hour; it is located on a busy one-way thoroughfare through the city that buses frequent. Our room came with breakfast, a mixture of continental with some warm food thrown in.
Breakfast – Hotel Torrione – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Lungomare
The city has an extensive waterfront and a beautiful Lungomare to go with it. Near the end of it, in the urban park, you will find a nice long sign with the city’s name where you can take memorable photographs.
Boardwalk – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Boardwalk – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Beach – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Looking North – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Patti by City Sign – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Erick by City Sign – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
There are several points of interest along the boardwalk and a leisurely stroll along it will eventually bring you to all of them.
Abandoned Boats – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Wave Science Experiment – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Unknown Statue – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Somewhere near the end, down by the Roman Baths, Patti found the Big Bench. Apparently just installed, since it had no placename on it yet.
Patti finds the Big Bench – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Monumento Della Vittoria
From our hotel on Via Giula, almost directly down the street and on the waterfront and Lungomare, is the Monumento della Vittoria. It is a monument erected for Italy’s World War I victory and Victor Emmanuele III, which also has replica of the Statue of Athena Promachos inside it.
Monumento della Vittoria – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Monumento della Vittoria – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Monumento della Vittoria – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Monumento della Vittoria – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Monumento della Vittoria – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Arena del Stretto – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Arena del Stretto – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Roman Baths
Along the Lungomare is a site of old Roman baths from antiquity.
Roman Baths Site – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo
A large cathedral in the Piazza Duomo is the Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo. It was partially destroyed in the 1908 earthquake and rebuilt with a fusion of Romanesque and Gothic styles.
Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Bronze Doors – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Aisle – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Clerestory by Entry – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Clerestory by Entry – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
The most interesting interior element of the cathedral is its ceiling. A timbered edifice that is remarqued and painted in a most interesting style, including pagan elements which appear to be handpainted.
Nave – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Nave’s Ceiling – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Crossing – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Urn – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Altar and Apse – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Organ in Transept – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Side Chapel – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Organ in Transept – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Castello Aragonese
The Castle Aragonese no longer functions as a castle and has been renovated into something more useful, an art museum. Here for a small fee you are able to enjoy two galleries, one in each tower.
Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Tickets For Two – Entry to Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
North Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Patti on South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
North Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
North Tower Gallery
During our visit this gallery had an exhibit of modern paintings, most of which bright colors were used in an almost three dimensional approach.
Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
South Tower Gallery
While we were visiting this tower housed a collection of art known as Voci senza Volto, or Voices without a Face. An effective and provocitive collection of art, which appears part surreal and part dystopian and gets the viewer to think about signs of struggle, longing and hardship. This was the high point of the trip for me.
South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Being Neutral Serves No One – Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Villas And Palazzos
There are a few villas and palazzos of import in the city.
Villa Genoese Zerbi
A beautiful Venetian Art Nouveau style building on the Corso Emanuele is the villa of Genoese Zerbi. The original was destroyed in the great quake, but it was completely restored and now is one of the main charms of the city.
Villa Genoese Zerbi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Villa Genoese Zerbi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Villa Genoese Zerbi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Villa Genoese Zerbi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Palazzos Spinelli and Giuffrè
These two palazzos are side by side on the Corso Emanuele by the waterfront. Both appear to need some work. Palazzo Spinelli offers a great example of Calabrian architecture and Art Nouveau, or the liberty style.
Palazzo Spinelli – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Palazzo Giuffrè on the other hand offers a more mundane example, and is reminiscent of other buildings you will find in other large Italian cities.
Palazzo Giuffri – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Restaurants
Drogheria Culinaria
Using its former name for the grocery store the family used to own, it now serves food and drinks. It has a decent wine list, with several good varietals by the glass.
Entrance – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Inside – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
The food is also pretty good and you will definitely be able to find something to slake your appetite at this establishment.
Meatballs, Bread with Hot ‘Nduja and Wine – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Pat’s Spaghettone and Erick’s Tagliotella, both with Pork Ragú sauce – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante
One of the restaurants in the area that is highly recommended for local Calabrian dishes is the Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante. Located on via Reggio Campi and via II Dezembre, this small little restaurants attacts all the locals, so have your reservation in hand before leaving your hotel or place of stay.
Entrance – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Old Citroen – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Everything we tried had that home cooking taste without any loss to attention to detail. The Stufato is highly recommended and will melt in your mouth.
Menu – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Stufato di Maialino a bassa Temperatura with Coleslaw – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Cavatelli al Sugo di Capra – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Stufato di Maialino a bassa Temperatura – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
While we were there a local class was having their end of year party, so noise levels were through the roof. However, it was still enjoyable, especially watching the children eating all that food. Made me remember how hungry I used to be as a school kid.
End of Year Lunch for Children – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Fennel Aperativo with Expresso – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Tartufo – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
A destination for tourists and those interested in southern Italian cuisine, a stop in Tropea is almost a must. Known for their mixture of Sicilian and Greek influences, this part of Calabria is famous for the Tropean Red Onion, or Cipolla Rossa, one of the most tasty onions in the world. Onions anyone?
Tropean Onions – Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy
Getting There
In order to get to Tropea from Sapri we had to take the InterCity train from Sapri to Lamezia Terme Centrale and then connect. Unfortunately there is no logistical way around it. From there we took the local TrennItalia Regional train service to Tropea. This gave us a two and a half hour layover in Lamezia Terme, just enough time for lunch!
Lamezia Terme
Other than connecting with our other train, there was no other reason to visit this place, that is, other than lunch! With two and a half hours layover, we had plenty of time.
Restaurants
Europa da Albano
While we were on our InterCity train, I took the liberty of researching what our options were at Lamezia Terme. There weren’t many, but this restaurant and pizzeria caught my eye. It was a good choice. It was very busy inside and out and packed with local people, which is actually a good sign. Though we waited a bit to order, the wait was not bad in the end and our drinks and food arrived within customary promptness.
Greek Salad with Tuna – Europa da Albano Ristorante – Lamezia Terme, Italy
Spaghetti Bolognese – Europa da Albano Ristorante – Lamezia Terme, Italy
One of the Canons – Piazza del Cannone – Tropea, Italy
Affaccion del Corso – Tropea, Italy
Another Canon – Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Unknown to us, Tropea is a very busy tourist destination and we were there on a weekend, so the crowds we experienced were kind of unexpected, especially for this time of year.
Typical Side Street – Tropea, Italy
Typical Side Street – Tropea, Italy
Typical Alley – Tropea, Italy
Piazza Ercola – Tropea, Italy
Old Portal – Largo Galluppi – Tropea, Italy
17th Century Palazzo Marchesi Toraldo di Francia – Tropea, Italy
Narrow Streets – Tropea, Italy
Narrow Streets – Tropea, Italy
One of the main squares or piazzas close to our hotel, was the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, which our street ran right into, if you walked far enough. It has plenty of seating and a few monuments amongst the trees that have been planted to provide some shade against the sun.
Piazza Vittorio Veneto – Tropea, Italy
Piazza Vittorio Veneto – Tropea, Italy
Piazza Vittorio Veneto – Tropea, Italy
Statua ai caduti di Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Statua ai caduti di Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Statua ai caduti di Tropea – Tropea, Italy
From there the main street in town is the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, which turns into Via Stazione as one gets closer to the train station.
Weekend Visitors – Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy
Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy
Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy
Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy
Hotel Colomba D’Oro
In Tropea we stayed at a hotel between the old part of town and the train station. It was just as well, our hotel in the city was the Hotel Colomba D’Oro on via Vittorio Veneto and it proved to be quiet and very comfortable. Our room came with a free morning continental breakfast, which included cooked eggs, pancetta and other warm offerings.
Hotel Colomba D’Oro – Tropea, Italy
Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania
The twelfth century cathedral of Saint Mary of Romania is on Largo Duomo. The interior houses guilt altar for the Virgin of Romania and the Black Crucifix of 1600.
Entrance – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Chapel Dome – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Tomb by Entrance – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Organ and Altar of the Virgin of Romania – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Black Crucifix of 1600 – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Altar – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Statues – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Mother Mary and Jesus – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea
On the presque-isle of Tropea, which is actually to an island than a peninsula, stands the Sanctuary of Santa Maria. In order to get there one has to climb down from the city and ascend the stairs to the sanctuary, which opens around ten in the morning. It is best to get their at opening, because as we where leaving throngs of people appeared and the inside of the chapel is quite tiny.
Tickets For Two – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
View – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Facade and Entrance – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
The entrance to the sanctuary is adorned by three painted cielings.
Entrance – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Entrance – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Entrance – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
The interior is actually quite small and fitted out with pews, an altar and other accoutrements of catholicism. There is also a small shop where you can by a keepsake, postcards or other memorabilia.
Pews – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Confessional – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Nave – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Altar – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
There are a few vantage points in which to take photographs of the surrounding coast and beach, as well as the city of Tropea perched on its cliff.
Patti – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Erick – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Belvedere Gardens
An adjunct to the sanctuary are the Belvedere Gardens, access to which is controlled by entry to the chapel. The gardens command a view of the coastline and with perfect weather equally good photographs of it.
Belvedere Gardens – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
There are a variety of trees in the garden, as well as other bushes and flowering plants. In the day it must have been an amazing place to repose and enjoy the day.
Patti – Belvedere Gardens – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Belvedere Gardens – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Belvedere Gardens – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Belvedere Gardens – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Belvedere Gardens – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Parking – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare
Though the walk along the Lungomare in Tropea is not the best we have been on, it is a nice walk that can bring you back up on the other side of Tropea. It also provides access to the sandy beach that enjoys protection from the wind and the waves and appears to be a favorite for the locals.
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
The Grotto – Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Beach – Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Nasocchio – The Apotropian Mask
Walking though the town a visitor will occasionally notice a mask that almost looks like a caricature. The closest analog we have in the States are caricature artists that frequent fairs and draw your face with a pencil in a very stylized way. Well, these masks are specific to the Calabrian culture.
Nasocchio and the Apotropian Masks – Totemic Masks against Evil Eye – Tropea, Italy
Nasocchio as he is called in Calabrian culture is a mask whose strange and unique glare is supposed to frighten away evil spirits, or what is commonly termed here the Malocchio or Evil Eye. The Italian Horn is meant to function in the same way, as are other strange artifacts in the culture. They are also meant to bring good fortune with their use.
Restaurants
Though we stayed here only for two nights, we still had occasion to visit three restaurants, all of which offered local Calabrian or Sicilian dishes.
Royal Bar
Not known for their food, we bought some drinks here for a quick rest. Nothing special, but the drinks were okay.
Royal Bar – Tropea, Italy
Campari Spritz and Granita – Royal Bar – Tropea, Italy
Diamante Rosso Tropea Ristorante
Here we had to try to local al ragu Arancini, or Sicilian breaded and conically shaped stuffed rice balls that are deep-fried. They were amazing, but usually always good, depending where you buy and how they are made. They can actually be purchased at most good local stores, cafes and some marketplaces and quickly heated up for a snack or meal.
English Menu – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy
Drink Menu – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy
Entrance – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy
Filey Fresh Pasta with Tropean Onions – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy
Spaghetti alla Ragu – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy
Dessert and Expresso – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy
Palazzo Teotino Ristorante
This restaurant is housed in an old palazzo and has both indoor and outdoor seating. We sat indoor right in the foyer next to the stairwell. We came here for the Tropean Onion soup that they advertize and found it very rich and tasty. We can also commend the fried onion floret, you get about four when you order them, so enough to share.
After our week in Naples where we took several days to visit the Amalfi Coast, we headed further south and stopped in Sapri. This was a scheduled visit to break up the trip and offer us a sunny interlude and a bit of repose before continuing to Tropea and later Reggio Calabria.
Stoney Beach – Sapri, Italy
Sapri
Sapri is a small Italian town that is dominated by its stony beach. While there it was fairly vacant and deviod of other tourists. But there were plenty of restaurants open and we did enjoy that relaxing atmosphere and food.
Boardwalk – Sapri, Italy
Boardwalk – Sapri, Italy
Boardwalk or Passeggiata – Sapri, Italy
Boardwalk – Sapri, Italy
Beach – Sapri, Italy
Beach – Sapri, Italy
Carlo Pisacane Statue – Sapri, Italy
Bronze Girl – Sapri, Italy
The town itself is nothing to look at, but there are a few spots of interest, all of which were along the coastal area. Situated in the Gulf of Policastro it is surrounded by hills on all three sides. Luckily the train station is a short ten minute walk to and from the beach.
Sapri Train Station – Sapri, Italy
Getting There
There are several trains that run between Naples and Sapri. Perhaps the most convenient one will be the local, which stops at several points, but offers a bit more flexibility.
Napoli Centrale – Naples, Italy
Napoli Centrale – Naples, Italy
Napoli Centrale – Naples, Italy
Patti – InterCity Train to Sapri – Naples, Italy
Forest Fire – InterCity Train to Sapri – Naples, Italy
Gulf of Policastro – InterCity Train to Sapri – Naples, Italy
Our Hotel
We stayed at the Hotel Pisacane, a small botique style hotel right on the beach. Unfortunately with the exception of breakfast, the restaurant is closed until tourist season which starts in June. Luckily, that did not turn into an issue for us.
Entrance – Hotel Pisacane – Sapri, Italy
Interesting Tree – Hotel Pisacane – Sapri, Italy
The Observatory
A very tall structure overlooking the Gulf of Policastro. It appears to celebrate eight renowned Italian scientist from astronomy, radio and meterology. It is located on the northern part of the beach, close to the Roman Villa Ruins.
Radio Greats Volta and Edison – Observatory Tower – Sapri, Italy
Radio – Volta and Edison – Observatory Tower – Sapri, Italy
Partially perserved under a canopy, the Roman Villa ruins are also north of town and located close to the observatory. The observatory also has some roman ruins near it that appear to be an old roman cellar or other structure.
Old Villa Romana Ruins – Sapri, Italy
Old Villa Romana Ruins – Sapri, Italy
Old Roman Ruins – Sapri, Italy
Old Roman Ruins – Sapri, Italy
Restaurants
While in Sapri we ate at two good restaurants that were noteworthy. Both of which were for a late lunch. We prefer most of the time to eat a heavier lunch and just skip dinner altogether.
Tintobrace Ristorante
An upscale restaurant that offers Calabrian food and fine selection of local wines by the glass. I would recommend the Cacio and Pepe spaghetti.
Insalata Mista with Onions – Tintobrace Ristorante – Sapri, Italy
Pasta with Tomatoes and Roasted Peppers – Tintobrace Ristorante – Sapri, Italy
Cacio and Pepe Spaghetti – Tintobrace Ristorante – Sapri, Italy
Ristorante Lucifero
The Ristorante Lucifero is also a pizzeria and has great pizza and pasta specials. It is located in town and not on the beach and is a bit difficult to spot. Therefore, they have added signs along the way to assist.
Sign to Restaurant – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy
Entrance – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy
Secondi and Sides – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy
Choose your pasta type, choose your sauce – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy
Veal with Mushrooms and Insalata Mista – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy
Veal with Mushrooms – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy
Pasta alla Ragu – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy
Inside – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy
I can commend the Aglianico from Paestum, Italy. Luigi Maffini’s Klèos comes in 50cl bottles and pairs perfectly with pasta and other tomato based dishes. I love Aglianico, it is a deep, clear, ruby wine with hints of plum, berry and dark fruit and is very tasty.
The second part of our first day was filled with visiting the town Amalfi on the eponymouos coast and Ravello, a bit further away from the shore, but still part of the famous coastline. We joined our driver again, who drove the windy and treacherous coastal road between Positano and Amalfi, while we took the ferry to enjoy the coastline.
Interesting Entrance Decoration – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Getting There
To get to Amalfi, we took the ferry from Positano. It is a thirty minute boat ride along the coast, which when the weather cooperates provides beautiful scenery and a great occasion to take photographs.
Ferry Ride from Positano to Amalfi – Amalfi, Italy
Ferry Ride from Positano to Amalfi – Amalfi, Italy
Ferry Ride from Positano to Amalfi – Amalfi, Italy
Ferry Ride from Positano to Amalfi – Amalfi, Italy
Entering Amalfi – Amalfi, Italy
Dockside at Amalfi – Amalfi, Italy
To get to Ravello from Amalfi, you probably should use or hire a car. Since we were had hired a private tour guide for all day, we used the car to ascend the five kilometers up the coast to the town.
Our Tour Guides Having Typical Italian Discussion While Driving – Pasqual and Federica – Ravello, Italy
Ravello Next Stop – Leaving Amalfi – Amalfi, Italy
Our Tour Guides Having Typical Italian Discussion While Driving – Pasqual and Federica – Ravello, Italy
The Coast Up To Our Next Stop – Ravello, Italy
When we arrived, we took a photograph to remember the occasion.
Our Private Tour Group – Driver Pasqual, Tour Guide Federica, Patti and Erick – Ravello, Italy
Amalfi
Perhaps fourth best of all the towns along the coast is Amalfi. Some may be surprised, but that is based on our experience of most of the towns. There are many factors for this, including the terrible idea of using part of the waterfront as a parking area, instead of a boardwalk, or even another beach. Therefore, it comes after Positano, Vietri sul Mare[1]this town also has coastal parking, but here it works because it is part of a boardwalk and beach complex. and Ravello.
Amalfi from parking lot – Amalfi, Italy
Amalfi from parking lot – Amalfi, Italy
Typical white houses – Amalfi, Italy
Main Piazza – Amalfi, Italy
Main shopping street – Amalfi, Italy
Mermaid fountain – Amalfi, Italy
It does have a beautiful cathedral, which unfortunately was closed at the time of our visit.
Cathedral of Saint Andrew the Apostle – Amalfi, Italy
The town has the customary narrow stairs, stairways, alleyways and tunnels, providing a reprieve from the hot summer days for travelers. There are also some interesting fountains in Amalfi, one actually has a cute little diorama built into it of little character, shepards and animals, along with the customary goldfish swimming below.
Narrow stairways – Amalfi, Italy
Narrow alleyways – Amalfi, Italy
More narrow stairs – Amalfi, Italy
Tunnels – Amalfi, Italy
Narrow stairs that go up, up – Amalfi, Italy
Fountain with diorama – Amalfi, Italy
Mermaid fountain – Amalfi, Italy
Ravello
Unlike most other towns along the coast, Ravello kind of stood out. Not only is it more relaxing, since it is obviously visited by fewer people, it is quieter and more laid back. This is most likely due to its smaller size, its elevation and distance from the coast.
Piazza Centrale – Ravello, Italy
Map Of The Town – Ravello, Italy
The Countryside – Ravello, Italy
Very Old Buildings – Ravello, Italy
Some find it a better alternative than Amalfi. For one, there are better views from the town, from where visitors can see Amalfi’s classic rocky coastline. Plus the relaxed atmosphere adds to the pleasure, especially if you have time to sit and enjoy a drink, or have a gelato at one of the many artigianale gelaterias in the town.
Gelateria – Ravello, Italy
The Narrow Town Streets – Ravello, Italy
Ceramics And Glass From Coast – Ravello, Italy
Duomo di Revallo
The main church in town is the Duomo di Ravello, which was unfortunately closed while we were visiting, so the interior remains a mystery to us.
Duomo Ravello – Piazza Centrale – Ravello, Italy
Villa Rufolo
For a small entrance fee you can visit Villa Rufolo in Ravello. The entrance shows some interesting designs and details, that continue in deeper parts of the villa.
Entrance – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Cupola At Entrance – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Details By Entrance – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Looking Back Out Of Entrance – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
In Between The Rooms By Entrance – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
One Of The Towers – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Old Baking And Cooking Ovens – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Inside And Some Old Portal Lintel – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Ornate Design Of Villa Vaulted Areas – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Vaulted Area To Gardens – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
The Gardens – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
The Gardens – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Double Columed Vaulted Area – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
The villa is rather simple, but has some interesting items, like an old stove and a tower. It is kept in relatively fine shape and is a pleasure to walk through.
Richard Wagner The Composer Was Here – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Ornate Lintel And Rooms – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Old Vaulted Ceilings – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Simple Beautiful With Murano Glass Chandelier – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Another Room With Chandelier – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Old Iron Stove – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Some of the external structures include a tower, a vaulted building that appears to have been an old chapel and some other old structures near the gardens.
Outer Building – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
The Tower – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Old Stone Walls – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Outer Building – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
It has a magnificent garden with a beautiful view of the sea. They actually hold concerts from the garden, by extending a stage over the side of the hill, providing a wonderful backdrop for music and other performances.
The Coast Looking Toward Vietri sul Mare – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
The Coast Looking Toward Vietri sul Mare – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Church of Saint Mary of Grace – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Coastline From The Gardens – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
The Gardens – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Restaurants
As part of our first day at the coast, we stopped in Amalfi for lunch some time after one in the afternoon.
Entrance – Taverna Buonvicino – Amalfi, Italy
Taverna Buonvicino
A very nice restaurant with a beautiful terrace outside, which is off the beaten path, so no worries about hordes of tourist bothering you while eating.
Ravioli and Insalata Mista – Taverna Buonvicino – Amalfi, Italy
Linguini with anchovy sauce – Taverna Buonvicino – Amalfi, Italy
They also have a very good wine list which is stocked with local favorites. I can commend one varietal, Taurasi Lo Scudiero (DOCG), which was exceptionally good.
On our first day to the Amalfi Coast, we were fortunate enough to be able to use the train service to get to Vietri sul Mare. Though in hindsight we probably should have used the longer, though more direct regional service, we opted instead for the faster option and had to change trains three times! Don’t make that mistake.
Coast and Mountains – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Tiled Store Fronts – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Vietri sul Mare
Vietri sul Mare is one of the small towns that comprise the Amalfi Coast. It is also known as the gateway to the coast, the rest are accessible only by car, bus or possibly boat, there is no continuing train service beyond Vietri sul Mare.
Park and Overlook coming into town – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
The Church’s tiled dome – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
The town is known for its glassware and ceramic factories and shops. Here you will find of plethora of shops selling all sorts of tiles, porcelain and other types of ceramics for use in the house and as decoration.
The old cermic factory – Ceramica Artistica Solimene Vincenzo – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Villa Comunale Vietri sul Mare – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
The town is small enough to easily visit within a day. We only needed a few hours to cover the entire town, even walking down from the train station, which luckily has an elevator to bring you down most of the way. However, it should be noted, you will have to walk several hundred meters downhill to reach the beach and then up again. Like the other coastal towns, it is built on a very steep hillside.
Solerno Container Ship port – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
View of ships – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Long and narrow stairways – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Long and narrow stairways – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Clean Streets – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Narrow Alleys – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Getting There
To get to Vietri sul Mare, we had to take two trains from Naples. First, we took a regional train to Napoli Centrale, since the metro was not working. Then we took another train to Solerno. After about a ten minute layover, we took a regional train then to Vietri sul Mare.
Napoli Centrale Station – Naples, Italy
For our return, we decided to take regional train back, since it offered a longer, but more direct option to the Piazza Amadeo station by our hotel, removing the need for us to get off and change trains.
Solerno Station – Solerno, Italy
Ceramic Tiled Houses
The town is full of tiled shops and buildings. Most of the shop owners tile their entrances as part decoration and part advertisement.
Tiled Store Fronts – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Tiled Store Fronts – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Tiled Store Fronts – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Tiled Store Fronts – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Tiled Store Fronts – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Ceramic souvenirs – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Terracota – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Ceramics – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Case Colorate
Perhaps the only house specifically known for its on-going construction and colorful use of tiles. Even when we were there, they seem to be embarking on some new expenditure, both inside and out.
Case Colorate – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Case Colorate – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Case Colorate – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Case Colorate – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Two Brothers
The Two Brothers are apparently from local legend, since when you finally see them, there are not two of them. In any case, it makes for an interesting backdrop for a photograph.
View of ships – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
The Two Brothers – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Patti – The Two Brothers – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Erick – The Two Brothers – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Restaurants
Since this was a day trip, we had time for lunch. Although we did have a few restaurants in mind, the following we found serendipitously.
Sole di Vietri
A small restaurant, comparable to a trattoria that serves very good food. Seating outside is limited and might be an issue during the summer months, when it is very busy.
Front – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
The menu offers daily specials and real home cooking, Italian style. You will find dishes derived from local cuisine, as well as some neopalitan and Italian favorites.
Cold Zucchini with Balsamic and Stuffed Peppers – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Squid with tomatoes and potatoes – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Pasta Fresca – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Our Table and Menu – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
However, all meals should end in a nice glass of Limonchello, a favorite and local specialty.
Limonchello – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Recently we made a decision to return to Naples, if only to use it as a launch point to visit the Amalfi Coast. It was a brief return to enjoy the food and some of the sites we fell in love with four years ago.
Naples
When we travel to Naples, we usually stay in Chiaia. It is an upscale and slightly newer part of Naples that offers a bit more quiet and relief from the tourist activity in the center. It also offers a furnicular to Vomero, which can be used to hop over to the Spanish Quarter, as well as great metro and regional train service.
Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Coming into Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Getting There
We took the FrecciaRossa TrenItalia service from Torino’s Porta Nuova. It takes about six hours and makes about just as many stops along the way. We normally purchase or make sandwiches for such trips, so that we may enjoy the trip without getting overly hungry.
Coming into Naples – Naples, Italy
View from our hotel – Pinto Storey – Chiaia – Naples, Italy
View from our hotel – Pinto Storey – Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Hotel Pinto Storey
Again, we booked the Pinto Storey hotel in Chiaia. A simple, quiet three star hotel occupying one floor by the Piazza Amadeo. It is a very convenient place to stay, because there is the metro and regional train stop in the Piazza, which gives you quick access to the entire city and beyond.
We visited the Spanish Quarter before and see that there is much more activity here now, since we were last here at the end of the pandemic. It is worth a walk through if you have never been here and there seem to be several streets now that have active stores and street vendors on them.
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Centro
The center part of the city has not changed a bit. The central shopping street is just a busy as when we were here last time. A stroll up the christmas street is also a must if you come for a visit.
Obelisk San Domenico – Naples, Italy
Via Vicaria Vecchia – Naples, Italy
Porta d’Alba – Naples, Italy
Piazza Dante – Naples, Italy
Piazza Dante – Naples, Italy
Voremo
One our way back to Chiaia we took the furnicular up to Voremo to get a few photographs of Monte Somma and Vesuvius. They do not cost much and provide an easy means for getting around the more difficult parts of the city.
Tickets for Two – Vomero – Naples, Italy
Furnicular – Vomero – Naples, Italy
Furnicular – Vomero – Naples, Italy
Capri – Vomero – Naples, Italy
Restaurants
We came to Naples having only one restaurant on our list of places we wanted to visit. Any others were based on proximity or a quick search for a place to eat. However, half of the time we were here, we didn’t even eat dinner. Preferring rather to enjoy a large lunch at our day trip destinations instead.
Osteria Pignatelli
A highly rated restaurant, that for all intents and purposes you should call for a reservation, since it tends to get very busy. The interior is appealing and fairly modern. The food is very good as well. Perhaps not the best I have had in Naples, but equal to the Michelin stars they have earned.
Front – Osteria Pignatelli – Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Entrance – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy
Patti – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy
Pasta Fresca and Insalata Mista – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy
Mozzarella Spoon – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy
Erick – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy
Pizzeria Staiano Dal 1964
This is a small family own trattoria that specializes in pizza. They also have a menu that changes each day, which contains a nice selection of local specialities.
