Luino, Italy – Lacking Service

A popular tourist destination for the Swiss, Germans and Netherlanders is the small town of Luino on the northeast end of Lake Maggiore. The boat services on the lake are divided here for destinations north of it and south of it. From the south, especially from Stresa, it is difficult, if not impossible, to arrange a roundtrip to this town except on wednesdays. Even to get here by train is a three to five hour ordeal and roundtrips by rail or bus are all but out of the question. The town is truely lacking service from the southern end of the lake.

Luino

It seems a popular destination for people from the north, who are either staying in Switzerland or the nearby town of Cannobio. It is especially busy on Wednesdays, this is when the town holds its weekly market. [1]Proportedly the largest in Europe, but that is not possible. The one in Turin far eclipses it in size and weekly frequency, being open every day and not just the middle of the week.

At one time the town was heavily industrialized and there were many textile factories here, which accounted for the terrible pollution the lake had to endure for years after its demise. Luckily today, the lake has considerably cleaner water that in the previous century.

Getting There

From the north, the map shows all traffic by boat going through Cannobio. From the south, we took the boat from Stresa. From there we stopped a half dozen times before reaching our destination.

It should be noted, if you are traveling from the south and want to go further than Luino, you can, you just may have to change boats in Luino.

From Stresa the trip is not inexpensive to Luino. For roundtrip tickets it cost us €15.20 per person[2]or about $18 per person.

Church of Saints Peter and Paul

A walk through the town and above most if, you will find the Church of Saints Peter and Paul. An unusual church which looks more like an administrative building than a church.

The inside does have some marble, but the rest of the nave and ceiling are painted in the style trompe-l’œil, giving the impression of relief where none really exists.

Restaurants

When we arrived in Luino, we only had three hours before our boat trip back, so we had to make good use of our time. Subsequently, we looked for a place to eat first and chose the Trattoria da Elia e Ugo.

Trattoria da Elia e Ugo

A small restaurant that caters to locals and tourists alike. They speak very good english, so there should be no problem with the language; they are even willing to look words up in order to make sure they have the correct word.

The food is very good and well portioned. The caprese is rather large and good enough for two. The pasta dishes are also fairly large and well seasoned.

Aside from the popular marketplace on wednesdays and the odd historical monument, there really is not much to see in Lunio. Coming from the south, it can only be commended for the odd day trip with lunch as the primary reason for the expedition, since it is rather far away and the boat service only runs roundtrip on wednesday, so plan accordingly.

References

References
1 Proportedly the largest in Europe, but that is not possible. The one in Turin far eclipses it in size and weekly frequency, being open every day and not just the middle of the week.
2 or about $18 per person

Domodossola, Italy – Easter Pilgrimage

Kind of by luck and definitely by accident, we made our own religious pilgrimage on Easter Sunday. Our pre-planned trip was always to visit Domodossola, but only included our walk up the Via Calvario as an aside, or suggestion, if we had time. It ended up being the perfect event on a near perfect day, at least with respect to the weather.

Domodossola

A large city at the top edge of Italy with Switzerland. It is the last stop on the train line from Italy into its neighboring country. It is an odd mix of new with some very old parts. The streets are very clean and well maintained. Some of the buildings date back to Columbus’ day and actually look it.

The city has the usual fountains and piazzas. Since it was a holiday, all museums and other tourist related buildings and facilities were closed. However, we did find some shops and restaurants that would normally be closed on a Sunday, open.

Getting There

We took one of the Regional Express trains from Stresa and we were there within a half an hour. Unexpectedly, we were stopped by police inside the train station after we got off the train. I guess it was probably because there were no other IC or EC trains going into Switzerland, so they had nothing better to do. They asked me for my travel documents and luckily I had my new wallet sized US passport. They took a photograph of it, exclaimed that it was the first time they saw one and let me pass. My wife told them all she had was a driver’s license, but the quickly looked at her and said no problem, go through. Yeah, they don’t profile in Italy. So, if you are traveling close to the Swiss border in Italy, bring your passport and travel documents, you never know, you might be stopped!

Monte Calvario

To see the fifteen chapels and stations of the cross, you have to climb Monte Calvario. You arrive at the mount by the Via Calvario, a street which can be found off the Via Matterella.

The first thing you will see is a small church or chapel with a large sign explaining the origins, history and design of the entire idea.

A bit further down this road will be the start of the Via Calvario. At first, the first four chapels come fast and furious.

 

Once the road starts to incline, it might be better to walk on the flat pavement stones in the middle, or the outer edges if you have to, because after a short while the vertically set stones will take a toll on your feet.

Then the incline increases and it takes a bit longer to get to the next four. But, our weather was extremely pleasant, sunny and in the middle sixty degrees Fahrenheit.

Once you have reached the eigth station, you are more on less on the top of the mount. Here you will find the remaining four, eight, nine, ten and eleven.

The twelfth and thirteenth are actually in the Church of the Holy Crucifix. A beautiful little church and chapel with real candles that may be lit for prayers.

The remaining stations are outside again. We only managed to find the fifteenth station, since it is right next to an overview of the city. The other, was below by the cafe, which we had no interest at that point in visiting.

Restaurants

After walking the city for about an hour, we found a bistro for lunch. We only order salads and cannot say much about the quality of their steak, which seems to be their primary offering. However, had we known better, there was a quaint little Osteria not far from there that was actually serving an Easter dinner, with lamb and all usual italian side dishes. Oh well, our loss.

With this post we will note that we have seen a marked increase in restaurant prices. Not only for food, but drinks as well. Perhaps not exspensive as the States, but they are getting up there.

Restaurant Bistro Steak House

As a Insalata Greco goes, they were okay. About medium in size and they didn’t have a lot of Feta cheese on them, so the owner is a bit cheap. But the food was okay and not terribly expensive. I would say, if you have time, find somewhere else, but the food is fine otherwise, though you may find the service more than lacking, especially after you receive your food.

Another good tip, at least for here, but we have seen it elsewhere too. If you are done and have already told them so, get up and go to the bar (Cassa) and pay, don’t wait for them to come back. You may sprout some new grey hairs if you do.

Stresa, Italy – Spring Jaunt

Enjoying the beautiful weather in Turin, we looked at each other one day and exclaimed it was time to go somewhere local again. Seeing a weather prediction of rain about a week and half out, we decided to travel to Stresa and Lake Maggiore for our Easter weekend. Little did we know, everyone else in Italy, France and Germany was thinking the same thing! So be warned, Easter may be a very busy weekend on the lake.

Stresa

We have been in Stresa before and enjoyed it thoroughly the last time. We rebooked the same hotel for five nights and left Turin, destined for new adventures in this beautiful lake area.

Getting There

From Turin we took the Freccia Rossa from Torino Porta Nuovo to Milan Rho-Fiera and then one of the Regional Express trains to Stresa for a total trip time of about two hours.

Where We Stayed

We stayed at the Regina Palace Hotel again, since we had such a good time on our previous visit. From there we were able to witness a forest fire that broke out on the other side of the lake. It burned for two days and was finally put out with the help of helicopters.

Regina Palace Hotel

Unfortunately, our booking put us in a rather large room, number 115, which was located right above the bar and almost directly in front of the main stairwell. The noise on our first evening was ridiculous and I did not get to sleep until some time after twelve.

The bar plays music from seven in the evening until midnight, and the later it got, the louder it got. So the next morning, I had our room moved to one of the extremities of the hotel, which was much quieter and overall much more enjoyable.

Lungolago

Stresa has a beautiful boardwalk along the lake. It winds its way along the western side, all the way down to Piazzale Lido, another boat launch on the lake. There is only one short stretch you have to walk along the road, which is where the Borromeo estates are located, since they have complete lake access. Other than that, it’s a fine walk to enjoy the view and take photographs.

Restaurants

Since we have been to Stresa before, our concentration was more on day trips from the location, rather than visiting the city itself. However, we were able to enjoy some restaurants and cafes while we were here.

Il Vicoletto Ristoranti

A typical italian restaurant that serves fine food. The service is good and the meals are well portioned and taste great.

The desserts are exceptional, from the Almond Torte to the Panna Cotta, and commendable.

Al Buscion

More of a cafe or bistro, this little place has something for everyone. It is one of the few places in Stresa, where you will find more than one kind of soup being served. It is more known for its charcuterie boards and paninis, than anything else, though we never had the chance to order one.

La Piola

If you like finer dining, then look no further than La Piola.

We thoroughly enjoyed the food here, though we didn’t order any dessert. The pasta dish was excellent and very tasty, and Patti enjoyed here Chicken Cutlet as well.

El Gato Negro Cafe

We stopped at El Gato Negro for a late lunch and glad we did. They have very tasty soups, salads and sandwiches at very reasonable prices. The pastrami sandwich, though not like pastrami in the States, was delicious. It had an exceptional dressing on it that complimented the tomatoes, lettuce and pastrami to perfection.

Il Centrale

Though inside the city a bit, it is more of a tourist trap restaurant than any of the other ones we have patronized. If you are looking for something to eat, you cannot go wrong here, but it is definitely nothing special.

The food is okay and the service is a bit slow. But for what you get, we found them a bit pricey and the coperto[1]This is a cover charge in Italy. It is suppose to offset the fee of table linens, cutlery, napkins, etc., and is applied unevenly throughout the country. It will most often be found in tourist areas, … Continue reading was a bit high for our liking.

References

References
1 This is a cover charge in Italy. It is suppose to offset the fee of table linens, cutlery, napkins, etc., and is applied unevenly throughout the country. It will most often be found in tourist areas, where the establishments can get away with charging it. If so, DO NOT leave a tip, you’re covered.

Biella, Italy – Woolen Woes

A former eminent place where most woolen products came from in Italy is the city of Biella. As far back as the thirteenth century, the city has been known for its fine wool fabrics and products. However, with the recent globalization of products and competition of the early twenty-first century, many of the factories and businesses associated with that industry have gone away, creating what some might term – the woolen woes.

Biella

The city sits at the foot of the eponymous mountain range of the Biellese Alps. It has been so affected by the wool industry’s decline and other issues, that it is considering cutting back on some municipal services, including the possible cessation of the funicular, or the Funicolare del Piazzo, which was severely damaged by past weather events.

Getting There

We took the train from Turin’s Porta Susa to Biella. It is easy and very cost effective and only takes about an hour.

Though a very liveable city, it is fairly quiet, but we found lacking in some amenities. It is also not a very pretty city, it had many empty stores while we were here and many buildings appeared to have maintenance issues. However, if you did not stray far from the main street of Via Italia you wouldn’t notice.

Piazza Biella

On the west side of the city, on top of the hill, is the Piazza Biella. A fifteen to twenty minute walk up the Costa del Piazza will bring you to the upper part of town. The cobbled street is a bit treacherous, so take care, especially if the weather is bad, the stones are quite slippery, even when dry.

Here you will find the Piazza Biella, which has a few cafes and bars to enjoy. Aside from that, it is very quiet.

Close by is the Piazza Mario Cucco, from where you will be able to get a fantastic view of the Biellese Alps.

One the way down, we took the Costa San Sebastiano, which led us directly to the Basilica of San Sebastiano in Biella.

Basilica Biella

The Basilica of San Sebastiano, together with the monastery of San Girolamo, stands as the pinnacle of the Biella Renaissance. Commissioned and funded by Sebastiano Ferrero, it featured artists from the Lombardy region for its masonry work. The church’s foundation stone was laid in 1500, and in honor of the patron, it was dedicated to San Sebastiano. The construction was overseen by Maestro Eusebio, who was present during the laying of the foundation stone. By 1504, the church’s walls were already finished, but it wasn’t consecrated until 1540 by Monsignor Guglielmo di Gattinara, the Bishop of Nicomedia.

Cathedral of Biella

From the outside the Biella Cathedral, or Cathedral of Saint Stefano Protomartire, might almost remind one of a mosque, if it weren’t for the cross on the apex of the roof.

However, from the inside there is no mistaking it for anything other than a catholic cathedral. Interestingly, the interior contors of the colums and relief of the ceiling are all a visual illusion and one of the best examples of trompe-l’œil. This is where the intricate details are painted on the existing stone, plaster or masonry to mimick definition or relief, when in fact there is none.

If you look carefully you may find the original first foundation stone for the church, that is before it became of cathedral. It was set in the early fifteenth century and has been interpreted, first from the ancient latin, then into modern italian.

The english translation would say, “1402, today on the 20th of March, construction of this church was begun by master Giovanni Borri.”

Biella Baptistery

Extremely close by the cathedral is the Baptistery of John the Baptist. Unfortunately, no entry is allowed. But a quick look of the outside and it is clear that it is a fairly old building.

Church of the Santissima Trinity

Directly off the Via Italia is the small church of Santissima Trinity. It has high vaulted ceilings with frescoes and a very ornate altar. Here again, the relief is mostly done using paint.

Restaurants

Since this was a day trip, we only had time to enjoy lunch. At first we had some difficulty and our first choice, the higly rated L’Arrugginita on the upper side of town, was completely booked. Then we mistakenly sat down in what we thought was a neapolitan pizzeria, which turned out to actually be a poke bowl bistro. Then finally we found Ristorante Il Salotto.

Ristorante Il Salotto

A very fine place for lunch, Il Salotto offers a tasty fixed priced menu at €17 for pasta (primi only), or €24 for the two course lunch (primi and secundi). For the extra seven euros a piece, we were able to order two primi pasta dishes and two secundi meat dishes, with bread, a glass of wine and water for total of €51.

The food was excellent, as was the service and decor. If you are ever in Biella, definitely one of the places to eat.

Seligenstadt, Germany – Ancient Castral

Built around the ancient remains of an old Roman Castrum, Seligenstadt is one of Germany’s oldest towns. The Romans established a fortified encampment around the second century and maintained it for over a hundred and fifty years. Some time in the mid third century the germanic tribes repeatedly attacked the castrum, forcing the Romans to withdraw across the Rhine river, leaving a pile of rubble behind. Some time afterwards it was known as Obermühlheim and some of the earliest buildings in Seligenstadt are dated to the seventh century and are still standing.

A stone’s throw from one of the public parking places is the Wendelinuskapelle. A small chapel honoring Saint Wendel, patron saint of farmers and shepards. Built in the late 1800s it stands on the place of a former Heiligenhäuschen. The Baroque doorway is some 160 years older than the chapel itself and was taken from the west portal of the Seligenstadt Basilica, when it was renovated in 1868. The inside is rather plain and in need of some repair.

Seligenstadt

The three main attractions in this town are the Benedictine Monastery, the Einhard-Basilika and the town’s Marktplatz, or marketplace. One can also find along the Große Maingasse a ferry crossing that crosses the Main river, which separates Hesse from Bavaria.

For the most part the town appears to have been saved from the ravages of war. Many of the original timber houses still stand and many have historical markers on them, giving the passer-by a brief history of the structure before them.

Benedictine Monastery

The monastery, which was established by the Benedictines in 815, houses a museum now and a beautifully maintained garden overlooking the Main river.

Einhard-Basilika

Though started in the early ninth century as the Saint Marcellinus and Petrus church, it is currently known as the basilica of Einhard, who was one of Charlemagne’s closest friends and advisors. The facade of the church is neo-roman, though there are several other styles of note, including early gothic.

Marktplatz

While we were visiting, a political infomation event was being held in the marketplace, which includes the Rathaus. The area is surrounded by quaint little shops, cafes and government buildings.

Restaurants

The weather was cold, cloudy and wet, typical for this time of year. So, when it was time it was essential to find a warm place with good food, so Italian with a pizza oven sounded about right.

Ristorante & Pizzeria 1744

A modern restaurant with a surprisingly large staff was able to accomodate us for lunch. I would expect that during busier times, reservations might be recommended.

The food was excellent. We tried the soups and main pasta dishes, which most people around us seem to favor; so we cannot really speak about the quality of the pizza. They also have traditional italian coffee and other after dinner amenities.

Luzern, Switzerland – Day Trip

Luzern For A Day

The last time we were in Luzern was in 2020. We came back at the behest of other family members who wanted to visit it for a day and to also check out the wonderful hands-on transportation museum. We therefore made a Tagesausflug, or day trip, from Zürich to Luzern just to see the museum.

Getting There

From Zürich HBf, we took the regional train IR70, which only takes about forty minutes to Luzern. With the half fare card, it only cost us 13.50 Francs round-trip, per person. Luzern train station is right by the confluence of the lake and the river, so it drops you right in the heart of town.

Luzern The City

Luzern, or Lucerne depending upon your preferred spelling, is a beautiful little city on the banks of the Vierwaldstättersee, or Lake Lucerne. It is bisected by the Reuss River, which in earlier times not only had several mills along it, it was also used to generate electricity for the city when one of the old mills was converted to a hydro-power station.

The Bridges

The most interest sight in the city are its bridges. The Kapellbrücke, or Chapel Bridge, was originally a fortification, but is now a tourist attraction that almost burnt down in 1993. The paintings that adorn it, and it sister bridge the Spreuerbrücke, are still being restored after the fire and years of neglect.

Museum Of Transportation

The Verkehrshaus der Schweiz, the Swiss Museum of Transport, is a hands-on museum for people of all ages, but mainly geared toward school children. Even for adults, there are some very interesting and historical items to see, let alone a good record of Switzerland’s contribution in the area of transportation.

The museum is divided into themes, from planes, to trains and automobiles, they even have a brief but interesting exhibit on bicycles and their history in Switzerland.

Restaurants

We visited on Sunday, so our restaurant choices were rather limited. Sunday in most of Europe is the day of the week that families go out to eat and many normally have reservations for a late day lunch. Most of the establishments along the Rathausquai, Reusssteg and Bahnhofstrasse were busy, but off the beaten path we managed to find something.

Restaurant Fritschi

Tucked away and located Sternenplatz is the Restaurant Fritschi. It offers mostly swiss cuisine, but there are some simpler dishes, if you are not too hungry or prefer not to eat a heavy lunch.

Santa Lucia Ristorante

When we returned to Zürich, we ate at Santa Lucia Ristorante. This restaurant can get very busy, so it is probably a good idea to have reservations. They do however have a downstairs, which is where we were seated; there you can actually witness them making your pizza. They have many other specialities on the menu, so finding something delicious to try should not be a problem.

Wengen, Switzerland – Rainy Return

Our Rainy Alpine Return

After Lake Leman we planned a return to the Bernese Alps and chose Wengen at the behest of other family members. We had previously been to Grindelwald and had spent some time there, so we knew the area well, although we had never visited the Lauterbrunnen Valley. In preparation for this trip, we purchased the following tickets and discount cards to help in managing expenses.

      • The Swiss Half Fare Card – provides half fare prices on all travel, including cable cars and other forms of transportation
      • The Oberländer Pass – provides access to all modes of transportation within the Oberland, can be purchased using the Half Fare card above.
      • The GoldenPass Express – since it is a special train, it is included in the Oberlander Pass, but if you want reserved seating, use the Half Fare card the price for First Class, it is still quite reasonable and perhaps the way to go for medium to large groups (we were a party of six).

Getting There

From Montreux, Switzerland we enjoyed the GoldenPass Express train to Interlaken Ost, the train station that lies between the lakes Thunersee and Brienzersee, just outside the Lauterbrunnen Valley.

It winds through the Cantons of Vaud and Bern, through the Simmental valley where there are pastoral views to enjoy.

Wengen The Town

Wengen is a classic Swiss ski town, having a single avenue with shops and stores catering to souvenir hunters, hotels spread throughout the surrounding area with accompanied restaurants, as well as standalone restaurants offering specialities and train and cable car stations. One thing it doesn’t have are private cars, they are not allowed here and one must park in Lauterbrunnen and take the train to visit.

Hotel Jungfraublick

Our hotel during our stay was the Jungfraublick hotel, a three star hotel with restaurant. It supplied a complimentary continental breakfast in the morning, but its linen service proved to be somewhat of a problem and each day we had to ask for things we should have been supplied.

Aside from that, we didn’t see much of the Jungfrau, the third tallest mountain in the Bernese Alps, due to weather and the constant threat of rain or snow.

Restaurants

Even though it was slightly off-season, we made reservations for all the restaurants we visited and it is probably advised, we found most of them fairly busy during regular dinner hours.

Da Sine Ristorante

On our first day in Wengen, we ate here for lunch. They have excellent Italian food at somewhat reasonable prices for Switzerland.

Caprice Ristorante

The Caprice restaurant also offers Italian food and is very good. It can be found at the Maya Caprice Boutique Hotel and there prices are also in line with what other restaurants are charging in the area.

Turin, Italy – Sassi-Superga

Our Day Trip To Sassi Superga

On a whim, since it was such a nice day out (clear sky, mid-70s), we decided to go to Sassi-Superga for a day trip. The last time we visited Sassi-Superga was in 2019, after we arrived in Turin from the States.

Getting There

From the center of town and a short walk to Piazza Vittorio Veneto we took the GTT #15 tram going toward Sassi. After waiting about 15 minutes, it arrived and we enjoyed a twenty minute ride up to around the Briaza stop on Corso Belgio. Here we ended up behind another tram that was having issues and subsequently was numbered #00, to indicate that it was no longer in use. Because of this, we had to get off the tram at the next stop and were told to take the GTT #68 bus that pulled up behind our tram.

We happily got on and tried to ignore the issue, until at the next stop the bus driver indicated that we had to get off his bus and get on another #68 bus that had pulled up behind us. Flaborghasted and flumexed we did complied, but not after we clearly showed our displeasure, however being Italian, he was totally nonplussed by the situation. Luckily, after another short 10 minute ride we arrived at our destination, still in time to catch the Cog or Inclined Train up to Superga hill.

Sassi-Superga

After your bus, or tram ride if you are so lucky, there is a short five minute walk to the train station. It is located on a rather confusing intersection on Corso Casale between SS10 and SC di Superga, for which there are about seven or eight crosswalks!

Stazione Sassi

If you use the GTT phone application for tickets, you would get the mistaken impression that your €1.90 commuter ticket, that was used on the tram and bus, should still apply (within the 90 minute time limit) to take the Inclined Railway up Superga Hill, it does not. Ticket vending machines are inside the railway and cafe building on-site, they may also be purchased from the conductor, but there may be an additional charge. The charge from the vending machine is €3 per person one way, so for two persons round-trip, that came to €12 total for us.

The train departs promptly and after about twenty to twenty-five minutes, you will arrive at Superga Station, just below the Basilica of Superga. The station has a cafe, so if you are in need of refreshment, now would be the time.

Basilica of Superga

The basilica is still undergoing renovations after all these years and has scaffolding in and around the outside of the building. Most of this appears to be in place to protect visitors from falling debris. The exterior is starting to really look in need of major work, but they do appear to have the upper hand on the issue inside.

Unfortunately, the little restaurant that used to be housed on the left hand side of the church no longer exists, there is only an entrance to the Tomb of the Savoy family. So our plans to eat there vanished as soon as we figured out that it had closed, most likely due to the pandemic.

Restaurants

However, all is not lost and a short walk down the hill toward on Sentiero 26 path near the Monument of Umberto I, is a nice little Trattoria that we visited for lunch.

Conserva – Trattoria Superga

A short ten minute walk downhill on the trail from the monument is the Trattoria Superga. It is on a rather busy road, however we saw as many cyclists while sitting there as we did cars and other forms of transportation.

We can only say that the food was very good and typical for Piedmont and the area. The Tajarin and salads were both delicious, though a bit pricey. Our entire lunch with wine, water, bruschetta, pasta, coffee and digestive came to €77 for two, which we consider rather high, though not exorbitant.

Turin, Italy – La Venaria Reale

Reggia di Venaria Reale was a royal residence and palace to the northwest of Turin, Italy. It was one of more that a dozen residences of the Savoy family. It was abondoned after the Napoleonic Wars and later became a military post and barracks and subsequently slowly fell into disrepair and abandonment. After a major restoration, it finally opened to the public in 2007 as a musuem and tourist attraction.

Getting There

The easiest was to get there from Turin is to take one of the SFM trains from Porta Susa towards the Turin Airport. Many of these trains stop at Venaria Station and it only takes about fifteen to twenty minutes and costs about €3.50 per person. We often use the phone application and do not book a round-trip ticket, since you never know how long you might stay, especially if you are planning for lunch as well.

The Palace

The palace is actually in two pieces, the original Palace of Diana from the seventeenth century in white stucco with a white clock tower and the latter eighteenth century addition in raw brick with the Belvedere Tower, where you enter.

The Grand Gallery

Probably the most striking room and the pinnacle of the visit, the Grand Gallery is part of the Palace of Diana and a core piece of the original palace.

Turin At The Turn Of The Century

There is a nice collection of maps, dioramas and other works depicting Turin at the turn of the seventeenth century. Interesting from the perspective of present day Turin and what was lacking back in the day of the House of Savoy.

The Rooms Of Art

There is also a fine exhibit of art at the palace. Located through the entrance to the gardens, the entrance is in the back of the Palace of Diana.

The Stables

Juvarra Stables

The Juvarra Stables contain a collection of the royal family’s modes of transportation, from a river gondolla, to the royal coach and other broughams, all the way to childrens toy coach.

The wall is surrounded by a historical account of a trip up the River Po using the gondola from Venice to Turin.

Alfieri Stables

Today these just appear as a hallway depicting the transition from a palace in ruin to full restoration. Some of the photographs in the collection are strinking and it is well worth thoughful look and some consideration.

The Gardens

The gardens here include several, the most conspicuous one is the Flower Garden. But there is also several orchards and three distinct terraces that one can walk through and enjoy the well manicured estate.

Church of Saint Hubert

One has to walk to the Church of Saint Hubert from within the complex near the stables, outside entry is not possible. All of the pews have been removed, only the artwork, frescoes and a high altar remain, everything else is gone.

Restaurants

Il Convito della Venaria

Just on the corners of the Piazza della Repubblica and Via Andrea Mensa is the ristorante Il Convito della Venaria. A fine place for lunch, though probably a bit pricier than some of the alternatives, though restaurants and cafes appear to get sparser and sparser as you walk back towards the train station, so word of warning. We had a simple lunch of Bruschetta and two different pasta dishes, Patti had Maccheroncino al Tochio with Eggplant, Zucchini and Olives in a red sauce and I had the Agnolottini del Plin Piemontese Style, both were delicious.

Ivrea, Italy – A Piedmont Weekend

If you are into hiking and enjoy a really good weekend excursion, then the Metropolitan town of Turin has something great to offer, the tiny little town of Ivrea. Known for being part of the Via Francigena[1]The ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome. and Five Lake hiking area, it is a great place to spend a few days.

Getting There

This town can be reached in just under an hour’s train ride from Porta Nuovo in Turin. The Regional Veloce (RV) runs directly from the main train station, through Porta Susa and onto Ivrea. Unfortunately, the line no longer continues to Aosta, so those who are stopping over have to use the bus service to continue their journeys.

The Hotel

We stayed at the Hotel 3T on Via Sant’Ulderico, a modern hotel that has most of the amenities. One thing I disliked about this hotel, at least during this time of year (Spring), is that the thermostat makes you believe you have control over the temperature in your room, when in fact you don’t!

The Town

The town is cut in two by the Dora Baltea river, which offers a few courses for avid kayakers and seems to draw them from all over. The river here cuts right through the native diorite rock, which can be seen everywhere you look and presents a dark geologic hardness that makes it such a stable building foundation; practically everything, including the hospital, is built on it.

There is not much to the town itself, just the Lungodora, or walkway along the river, and one central main street where one can find most of the shops, cafes and other stores.

Castle Saubauda

A large rectangular castle built in the fourteenth century by the Savoy family. It is only open certain times during the year and one has to reserve their guided tour ahead of time. We were only able to see the outside and sometimes at night it is lit up in different colors.

Ivrea Cathedral

Actually known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of Saint Mary, or Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, is very close to the castle on the hilltop. It is in need of restoration and there are several, apparently small projects already underway inside the cathedral.

Inside the cathedral is actually quite impressive. The nave is well decorated with ceiling frescoes and religious art. It is quite dark and reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel before that was restored and suffers from decades, if not centuries or candle and other smoke.

The Crypt

The main attraction of the crypt are the frescoes. When possible the caretakers of the cathedral have installed lighting, so that you can adore without the need for using the flash on your camera, which you should never do.

Restaurants

Moma

Moma is actually a bar and restaurant, so you can stop their early for a drink before dinner, or wait until 7PM and dine there as well. They have a fairly good selection of food which may be considered cosmopolitan and some Piedmont dishes. Both of our dishes were very good and came with rather large portion size which is unusual of Italy.

References

References
1 The ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome.