Bern, Switzerland – Medieval Town on the Aare

Bern was originally settled by Swabians^[1]The Zähringen noble family from around Freiburg im Breisgau in the twelfth century and quickly died out within a century. from the lower parts of Germany, it is the fifth largest in Switzerland and was initially surrounded by the Aare river on three sides, with fortifications protecting it’s west side.

Marktgasse – Zytglogge – Bern, Switzerland

Marktgasse – Bern Fresco – Bern, Switzerland

Getting There

Bern does not have a commercial airport, so you will either have use Zürich‘s or Geneva’s and then take a train. We had already started in Geneva, so taking one of the ICE trains from Geneva to Bern was automatic. However, in typical SBB^[2]Schweizerische BundesBahnen or Swiss train fashion, it was halted before leaving the Lake Léman area and we had to find another train to continue our two hour journey, which then turned into a three hour trip^[3]There have been few times when traveling by train in Switzerland was a normal affair. It is getting to be more like the Deutscher Bahn.

Bern Train Station – Main Entrance – Bern, Switzerland

Bern Train Station – Platform – Bern, Switzerland

Bern Train Station – Main Waiting Hall – Bern, Switzerland

The City

The old medieval city of Bern is rather compact, due to it being confined by the Aare river. The main train station is on the west side of the city, so it is probably best to find a hotel close to it. We stayed at the Hotel Savoy, three blocks away from the train station.

Gerberngasse – Interesting House – Bern, Switzerland

Nydeggbrücke – Rose Garden Hill and Paul Klee Center – Bern, Switzerland

Walking from the train station to the Nydeggbrücke, via the Marktgasse of Kramgasse, should not take more than a twenty-five to thirty minutes without stopping. The main shopping avenue is the Marktgasse, which is lined with many watch stores and most other modern shops you expect to see in city that is heavily traveled. See the restaurant section below for where to go for food.

Marktgasse – Anna Seiler Brunnen – Bern, Switzerland

Marktgasse – Porticos and Shops – Bern, Switzerland

Gerechtigkeitgasse – Kreuzgassbrunnen – Bern, Switzerland

Rathausgasse – Rathaus – Bern, Switzerland

Rooftops and Houses across the Aare river – Bern, Switzerland

Nydeggbrücke – Wasserwerkgasse from bridge – Bern, Switzerland

Brunnen Or Fountains

The city has a lot of brunnen, or fountains in English, especially down the middle of the Marktgasse. Most of these have figures or other mythical forms, stylized perhaps from some historical figure.

Marktgasse – Zähringer Brunnen – Bern, Switzerland

Marktgasse – Schützenbrunnen – Bern, Switzerland

Kramgasse – Simsonbrunnen – Bern, Switzerland

Münsterplatz – Mosesbrunnen – Bern, Switzerland

There is also the Lischetti-Brunnen, also known as the Postgassbrunnen or Upper Postgassbrunnen, which was erected in 1820 next to the Staatskanzelei (State Chancellery) and is to be used by anyone who wishes to experience being a fountain.

Lischettibrunnen – Kronenbrunner or Upper Postgass Fountain – Bern, Switzerland

Hotel Savoy

A fairly good hotel on the Kramgasse, sharing an entrance with another store. We found it reasonably priced for a Swiss hotel and central for visiting the city. The breakfast is rather expensive, as it is in most Swiss hotels, at 30CHF per person. We found this unreasonable and ventured out each morning to stop at one of the many Konditoreien, or pastry shops, in the neighborhood. This option ran around 9-10CHF per person, but was only coffee and a pastry, which for use was sufficient.

Cathedrals And Churches

A few religious buildings of note in Bern are the Cathedral of Bern and the Church of Saint Peter and Paul.

Cathedral Of Bern

Cathedral of Bern – History of Tower – Bern, Switzerland

Cathedral of Bern – Houses of Patrons – Bern, Switzerland

Cathedral of Bern – Intricate Facade over Entrance – Bern, Switzerland

Cathedral of Bern – Fountain – Bern, Switzerland

Cathedral of Bern – Backside – Bern, Switzerland

Church Of Saint Peter And Paul

Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Nave and Altar – Bern, Switzerland

Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Organ – Bern, Switzerland

Bridges And The Aare River

There are two central bridges that span the Aare at the tip of the city. The Untertorbrücke, the first one to be built and is shown on maps of the city from the seventeenth century, and the Nydeggbrücke, which carries the tram and modern vehicular traffic.

Untertorbrücke – Nydeggbrücke over the Aare – Bern, Switzerland

Untertorbrücke – The Aare River – Bern, Switzerland

Untertorbrücke – Patti and the Aare River – Bern, Switzerland

Untertorbrücke – Patti and the Aare River, Rose Garden on the hill – Bern, Switzerland

Untertorbrücke and the Aare River – Bern, Switzerland

Bären Park

On one end of the Nydeggbrücke is the Bärenpark, or Bear Park. As early as the beginning of the sixteenth century the city has been known to have a Bärengraben, or Bear Pit, of some type or another. Ostensibly the city becoming eponymously named for the same in 1191 when the Duke of Zähringen killed a bear first on one of his many famous hunts. But seriously, this is just conjecture and there is more evidence that it was from a pre-existing toponym of Celtic origin, possibly berna, meaning cleft.

Einsteinhaus

On Marktgasse 49, visitors will find the Einsteinhaus, or the apartment that Albert Einstein lived in during his publication of his ground breaking theories of 1905, including his Special Theory of Relativity.

Kramgasse 49 – Einstein House – Bern, Switzerland

The Rosengarden Bern

One top of the hill on the other side of the Aare river is the park containing the Rose Garden, or Rosengarden. Unfortunately for us, the roses were not in bloom in May, so we were unable to enjoy their colors. However, there were other flowers, trees and bushes to be enjoyed in the park.

Rose Garden – Patti on walkway up to garden – Bern, Switzerland

Rose Garden – Patti and the garden – Bern, Switzerland

Rose Garden – The garden – Bern, Switzerland

It is here, that Albert Einstein probably contemplated many of the problems around his Theory of Relativity, and a bench here so commemorates his efforts.

Rose Garden – Einstein bench and overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland

From this vantage point you get a very good view of the old Medieval city of Bern, with its many churches, bridges and old style houses.

Rose Garden – Overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland

Rose Garden – Erick and overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland

Restaurants

The Bärenplatz and Waisenhausplatz are central areas for restaurants and have a good mix of local Swiss restaurants to Italian and other cuisines.

Bärenplatz – Market on Waisenhausplatz – Bern, Switzerland

Santa Lucia Ristorante

Another Italian restaurant which has a very active lunch crowd. Here you can enjoy reasonable prices and a wide selection of Italian dishes, including pizza. Our first evening here we enjoyed the soup and spaghetti.

Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Spaghetti Bolognese – Bern, Switzerland

Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Spaghetti and Tomatoes – Bern, Switzerland

Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Banana Split – Bern, Switzerland

The second time we visited was for lunch, then I ordered a pizza, which was very good and typical of the Neapolitan style from Naples. The house wine is also very pleasant.

Santa Lucia Ristorante – Pizza Margherita – Bern, Switzerland

Ristorante Luce

On the corner of Zeughausgasse and Waghausegasse is the Italian restaurant of Ristorante Luce. If you are looking for higher end Italian food, look no further. The service here is also exceptional, though the seating was a bit cramped.

Ristorante Luce – Patti with her Soup – Bern, Switzerland

Here they serve very good Italian specialties and have an excellent wine list. Here you can find Strozzapreti, or Priest Strangler/Choker Pasta with Mozzarella. A rather large and somewhat gummy pasta with an very interesting history.

Ristorante Luce – Strozzapreti Pasta with Buffalo Mozzarella – Bern, Switzerland

I can specifically attest to spending 150CHF for a 375ml bottle of Ornellaia 2019. A DOC wine from Italy with extremely high ratings which regularly fetches $250-$800 a bottle, a truly amazing wine. So if you are a true wine lover, your pallet might enjoy this restaurant.

Ristorante Luce – Ornellaia Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019 – Bern, Switzerland

References[+]

References
↑1	The Zähringen noble family from around Freiburg im Breisgau in the twelfth century and quickly died out within a century.
↑2	Schweizerische BundesBahnen
↑3	There have been few times when traveling by train in Switzerland was a normal affair. It is getting to be more like the Deutscher Bahn

8 May, 202518 May, 2025

Yvoire, France – Our Ivory Luncheon Escape

Expecting very nice weather for the next day, Patti and I purchased cruise tickets from CGN Cruise line at Geneva’s Mont-Blanc port for a day trip to Yvoire, France. Our primary intention was to have lunch away and escape the city’s hustle and bustle. We were not disappointed and had a very enjoyable day on the water and in the town.

Lake Léman – Cornavin – Geneva, Switzerland

CGN Cruise – Tickets for Two – Yvoire, France

Lake Léman – Mont Blanc in the distance – Geneva, Switzerland

Getting There

One of several cruise lines that operate Lake Léman, also known as Lake Geneva, CGN Cruise to Yvoire departs port Mont Blanc in Cornavin twice daily in May for a two hour cruise, stopping at other ports along the way. The ship is a rather large, double paddle-wheel, three deck ship that has dining and full bar for a most enjoyable trip.

Lake Léman – Mont-Blanc Port – Geneva, Switzerland

Lake Léman – Mont-Blanc CGN Cruise – Geneva, Switzerland

Lake Léman – Patti with the Water Jet behind – Geneva, Switzerland

Lake Léman – Leaving – Geneva, Switzerland

Though the air was cool, it was very still for both our outward and inward bound journeys, so the lake was a smooth as glass.

The Town

It is a rather small town, but well suited for a day-trip. It has at least three large parking lots for visitors who prefer to drive. There are numerous restaurants throughout the town with varying prices ranges, which provide some relief from the high prices in Switzerland.

Stone buildings with wooden roofs – Yvoire, France

Rue de l’Église – Église Saint Pancrace d’Yvoire in background – Yvoire, France

Medieval Gate – Place La Vieille Port – Yvoire, France

Église Saint Pancrace d’Yvoire – Entrance – Yvoire, France

Église Saint Pancrace d’Yvoire – Inside – Yvoire, France

There is a small church closer to the water, simple but apparently still in use. The area by the water has a jetty that it used by locals to swim off of and to also dock boats that come in from the lake occasionally.

Ancien Port de Plaisance d’Yvoire – Yvoire, France

Ancien Port de Plaisance d’Yvoire – Patti – Yvoire, France

Ancien Port de Plaisance d’Yvoire – Glacier Rock – Yvoire, France

Restaurants

Restaurant Les Jardins du Léman

A short walk up the Rue du Port is Les Jardins du Léman restaurant, which has two terraces, a lower and an upper one, where you ostensibly have an unobstructed view of the town and the lake. Since we did not have reservations, we were on the lower terrace, which still was very nice.

Les Jardines du Léman restaurant – Entrance – Yvoire, France

Les Jardines du Léman restaurant – Wine Menu – Yvoire, France

Les Jardines du Léman restaurant – Chateau de la Gardine – Yvoire, France

The staff is attentive at first, then after you’ve ordered, only check on you periodically. So, be prepared to wait a bit, they do become very busy for lunch.

Les Jardines du Léman restaurant – Patti on Terrace – Yvoire, France

The wines here are first rate and I can commend the Chateauneuf du Pape – La Gardine, Domaine Brunel. A beautifully balanced wine with spice and fruity overtones that will go well with most non-fish dishes. It is only offered in half-bottles, which was plenty for lunch and we thoroughly enjoyed it.

Les Jardines du Léman restaurant – Erick on Terrace – Yvoire, France

I ordered the Beef, Charolais Breed, Fillet-Stuffed, in the Salt Pan Black Diamond Sauce with Melanosporum Truffle Emulsion of Ratte Potatoes with Vanilla Oil. It was perfectly cooked and some of the best French food I have had in a long time. Patti had the Turbot fish with seasonal vegetables over squash sauce and a side of cauliflower.

Les Jardines du Léman restaurant – Beef with truffel sauce and potatoes – Yvoire, France

Les Jardines du Léman restaurant – Patti’s Turbot and vegetables – Yvoire, France

4 May, 202518 May, 2025

Geneva, Switzerland – Watch Capitol

The Watch Capitol of the world is no doubt Genève, Switzerland. Many, if not all, of the major buildings that surround Lake Léman are adorned with signs from almost every watch manufacturer in Switzerland.

Lake Léman – Clock Manufacturer Signs – Geneva, Switzerland

Though one would have thought that at this point, old mechanical watches would have out-grown their usefulness, but there must still be enough interest in them to support all the manufacturers. Apparently it is more like the diamond trade, than a typical consumer item.

Geneva – The City

It is difficult to categorize Geneva since the city appears to have many different sections and subsequently a different look and feel around every corner. It some places almost haphazard, where a blend of modern and provincial architectures are often seen close together.

Lake Léman – Brunswick Monument – Geneva, Switzerland

Lake Léman – Point Mount Blanc – Geneva, Switzerland

English Gardens – Fountain of the Four Seasons – Geneva, Switzerland

Fountain du Perron – Geneva, Switzerland

Grand Theater of Geneva – Geneva, Switzerland

Rue de la Corraterie – Geneva, Switzerland

Tour de L’Ille – Tower of the Isle – Geneva, Switzerland

Fontaine de l’Escalade – Geneva, Switzerland

Molard Plaza – Molard Clock Tower and Old Gate – Geneva, Switzerland

Lake Léman – Jet d’Eau or Jet of Water – Geneva, Switzerland

Hotel Edelweiss

A three star hotel in the Cornavin area of the city. It sits a few blocks from the lake on the north side of the city. Conveniently located to the train station and the lake cruise station, it is a quiet little hotel with a restaurant. The rooms are adequate, though the air conditioning does not work until some undisclosed time in late spring, so your room can be uncomfortable with the sun coming in, so opening the windows is a must.

Lake Léman

Of course the main attraction in Geneva is Lake Léman and the start of the River Rhone. It is a very clear lake and does not appear very large near Geneva, but as you travel out further on the lake it widens into a formidable body of water.

Lake Léman – Lighthouse – Geneva, Switzerland

City Parks

There are numerous parks throughout the city, enough to call Geneva a Green City. Though you may not agree or enjoy some of the haphazard architecture that composes the city, they were mindful enough to include a lot of green space throughout it environs.

Banc de la Treille – Longest Bench – Geneva, Switzerland

Bastion Park

One of the main parks, Bastion Park, is located across from the Geneva Theatre and contains the Reformation Wall. It is a very nice park for an afternoon stroll and to cool off. Many of its walkways are shaded and there are fountains where you may collect water for drinking.

Bastion Park – Luther’s Reformation Wall – Geneva, Switzerland

Bastion Park – Water Fountain – Geneva, Switzerland

Bastion Park – Old Fortress Wall – Geneva, Switzerland

Park du Pin

A smaller park further to the east is Park du Pin. It resides on the knob of hill with many pines and other shrubbery. Strolling through it is enough to take your mind off the busy streets that are around it. On the top, there is seating where one can enjoy the breeze that blows in from the lake.

Promenade du Pin – Overlook – Geneva, Switzerland

Promenade du Pin – Statue – Geneva, Switzerland

Botanical Gardens

Not far from the center of the city on the N15 tram are the Botanical Gardens of Geneva. An impressive collection of species from every continent adorn this park. It is strategically located close to the Genève-Sécheron train station as well, which also provides commuter transportation for the United Nations in Geneva.

Broken Chair – Patti – Geneva, Switzerland

N15 Tram – Nations Stop – Geneva, Switzerland

United Nations – Flags and Main Entrance – Geneva, Switzerland

The park is laid out in four sections. One housing most of the botanical gardens plants from each continent. A second has livestock and out buildings for the housing of exotic species from the tropics. A third has a view of the lake and a final section is purposed for outdoor activities.

Botanical Gardens – Entrance – Geneva, Switzerland

Botanical Gardens – Zen Garden – Geneva, Switzerland

Botanical Gardens – Patti – Geneva, Switzerland

Botanical Gardens – Erick – Geneva, Switzerland

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Botanical Gardens – Plants – Geneva, Switzerland

Botanical Gardens – Hill with waterfall, ferns – Geneva, Switzerland

Botanical Gardens – Waterfall rock – Geneva, Switzerland

Botanical Gardens – Everything in bloom – Geneva, Switzerland

Botanical Gardens – Tropical Venue – Geneva, Switzerland

Basilicas, Cathedrals and Churches

There are a number of important churches in Geneva, below are a few to note.

Basilica Notre Dame of Geneva

The Basilica Notre Dame in Geneva is compact in size and is reminiscent of some large cathedrals we have seen elsewhere^[1]Saint Mary’s Church and Cathedral in Hudson, New York. Unfortunately during our stay, mass was being said and we felt obligated to leave.

Basilica Notre Dame de Geneva – Entrance – Geneva, Switzerland

Basilica Notre Dame de Geneva – Nave – Geneva, Switzerland

Basilica Notre Dame de Geneva – Stained Glass Window – Geneva, Switzerland

Russian Orthodox Church

The Russian Orthodox Church in Geneva carries the characteristic golden domes of other orthodox churches. The inside is also gilded in area and very compact. There is a sign asking for donation of 2CHF at the entrance, however during our stay we carried no cash at all on us, so just took a photograph from the doorway.

Russian Orthodox Church – Inside – Geneva, Switzerland

Cathédrale Saint-Pierre Genève

The Cathédrale Saint-Pierre Genève is located in the old section of town, perched on the hill close to Place du Bourg-de-Four, an important piazza in the town. Unfortunately it was not open while we were here, being closed for a Stabat Matar concert series.

Cathedral Saint Pierre – Back View – Geneva, Switzerland

Cathedral Saint Pierre – Side View – Geneva, Switzerland

Cathedral Saint Pierre – Archaeologic Site – Geneva, Switzerland

Cathedral Saint Pierre – Front and Entrance View – Geneva, Switzerland

Tour du Romandie

In 2025 Geneva hosted the Tour du Romandie, the last stage race of the spring before the large stage races of the summer. We were fortunate enough to catch the last stage, Stage 5, or Time Trial Stage, on the end of Pont du Mont Blanc. Very exciting.

Tour of Romandie – Pont du Mont Blanc Turnaround – Stage 5, Time Trial Venue – Geneva, Switzerland

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Geneva_70_TourRomandie_13

Restaurants

Traveling can be daunting, especially when it comes to the different cuisines. The most challenging of which can be the meat based ones, which may not necessarily agree with everyone’s digestive system. Hence, keeping an open mind when in a cosmopolitan city like Geneva is a good thing. French cuisine can be very good, but it can also take a toll on the body after a few days.

Auberge de Savièse

The little restaurant Auberge de Savièse is on Rue des Pâquis and offers typical French cuisine. If you are into crepes, fondues and similar fare, this place offers them all at reasonable prices, at least for Switzerland. They also offer simple things, like soups and salads, if you prefer something lighter. We just had soup and a salad, so didn’t take any photographs.

Zhong Tong

A Chinese restaurant on Rue du Cendrier 10 has pretty good Chinese food. The service is good and it can get busy, but is never overcrowded. If you are craving vegetables, a must stop, especially after all the cheese and other meat oriented dishes exist within the city.

Zhong Tong Chinese Restaurant – Dessert, Cirese (cherry) Ice Cream, Pineapple and Oranges – Geneva, Switzerland

References[+]

References
↑1	Saint Mary’s Church and Cathedral in Hudson, New York

24 June, 2023

Zermatt, Switzerland – Matterhorn Express – Part Four

Matterhorn Express

The Matterhorn Express, the last leg of our journey here, is the longest of the rides you may take with the Peak Pass. It covers the gondola ride from Zermatt via Furi, all the way up to Klein Matterhorn and the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise.

Matterhorn – Walking to the gondola entrance – Zermatt, Switzerland

Matterhorn Express gondola entrance – Zermatt, Switzerland

The Ride Up

The gondola ride is fairly long and one can hop-on and hop-off and several different places along the way.

Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Furi – Zermatt, Switzerland

Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland

Zermatt below – Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland

Schwarzsee

This is about the third stop on the way up and is after Furi. It is just up over massif that separates the high peaks from the valley floor below. In fact, as you go up the hill on the gondola ride you cannot see the Matterhorn until you just about reach Schwarzsee.

Mattertal and Zermatt from Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland

Weisshorn and other peaks from Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland

Denta Blanche from Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland

Matterhorn and the Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland

Erick at the Zermatt – Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland

Furgg station – Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland

Alpine pasture – Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland

Trockener Steg

Another stop just before Klein Matterhorn is the Trockener Steg. It lays at around eleven thousand feet in elevation, so you will feel some relief from the elevation once you arrive here on the way back down.

Matterhorn – Trockener Steg – Zermatt, Switzerland

Patti and the Matterhorn – Trockener Steg – Zermatt, Switzerland

Klein Matterhorn

The top of the Klein Matterhorn is a cold, snowy and glacier dominated place. It has a commanding view of the Mattertal towards Zermatt and the Aosta Valley inside Italy. From here the Matterhorn looks very different, taking on the appearance of the rest of the horns, as the high peaks in this area are called.

Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland

Breithorn and its glacier – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland

Crystal glacier experience – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland

Aosta valley, Italy – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland

Theodul Glacier – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland

Matterhorn and surrounding peaks – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland

Patti and the Aosta valley, ItalyTheodul Glacier – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland

Erick and Aosta valley – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland

Matterhorn Glacier Paradise

The tunnel that has been carved out into the glacier was probably once done on behalf of scientific curiosity and has now become a tourist attraction, complete with ice carvings. An interesting, if not very cold attraction. In order to thoroughly enjoy this you should be properly dressed, it is very cold.

Conclusion

A must see trip and not for the faint of heart. If you have issues with height, be prepared, the gondola ride brings you across chasms that are quite deep and the gondolas are complete glass, so it will seem as though you are suspended in air. Here are a few videos where you can get an appreciation for what to expect.

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Zermatt_38_MatterhornGlacierExpress_46_GlacierExperience_32

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We really enjoyed our day on the Matterhorn Express and would recommend it to anyone with plans to visit Zermatt. This concludes our visit to Zermatt, Switzerland.

Coming into Zermatt – Zermatt, Switzerland

Erick and Patti with the Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland

24 June, 202324 June, 2023

Zermatt, Switzerland – Gornergrat – Part Three

Gornergrat

Another must see place in Zermatt is Gornergrat. You can reach this promontory by using the Gornergrat train, a mountain rack railway, which ascends the mountain passed Riffelalp and Riffelberg.

Zermatt – Gornergrat train – Zermatt, Switzerland

Upper Zermatt – Gornergrat train – Zermatt, Switzerland

Matterhorn – Gornergrat train – Zermatt, Switzerland

Mattertal – Gornergrat train – Zermatt, Switzerland

Dent Blanche and Aschhorn – Gornergrat train – Zermatt, Switzerland

Mattertal, Dent Blanche and Aschhorn – Gornergrat train – Zermatt, Switzerland

Matterhorn and Dent Blanche – Gornergrat train – Zermatt, Switzerland

The line ahead – Gornergrat train – Zermatt, Switzerland

Hikers – Gornergrat train – Zermatt, Switzerland

Observatory – Gornergrat train – Zermatt, Switzerland

Gorner Glacier – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland

There are several stops besides these two along the way that one may decide to leave the train and just walk or hike. However, unlike Sunnegga and Blauherd, the terrain here is a bit more unforgiving and vertical. Also, the weather on top of the mountains can be cold and unpredictable, so bring something warm and something waterproof, especially if you are hiking.

Looking towards Dent Blanche – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland

Gornergrat station – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland

Looking toward Zermatt and Mattertal – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland

Chapelle du Gornergrat – Bernhard von Aosta – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland

Erick at Riffelberg – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland

Gornergrat Glacier

The height of the trip is the summit and the Gornergrat Glacier. Aside from this, this isn’t much to see, especially in marginal weather when the Matterhorn is obscured.

Panorama of Gorner Glacier – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland

Riffelberg

On the way down we stopped at Riffelberg, with the hopes of getting some hiking in down to Riffelalp. However, the weather was not looking very good and we were still suffering from our colds, so we decided against it.

Wanderwege – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland

Tall Peaks across the valley Matter – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland

Here are some short videos that were taken of our trip.

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Restaurants

We did not eat at the restaurant on the summit, but rather waited until we were back in Zermatt. We left around ten in the morning and were already back a little after noon.

China Garden

Any one seeking good Chinese food at very reasonable prices has to visit the China Garden.

Patti at China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland

They have all the dishes which are prepared with continental ingredients and taste delicious. For those that prefer their lunches uncomplicated, here you can definitely find some vegetarian or simple to order.

Spring roll – China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland

Vegetable rice with vegetable mix – China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland

And of course, after lunch the day would not be complete this week without the customary rain storm. Actually, this was just a gentle shower, later in the day we had a very severe thunderstorm. But we were inside the hotel by then and did not care. Again, the weather can be unpredictable here, so be prepared and check the forecast, they are for the most part reliable.

Tomorrow it’s on to Matterhorn Glacier, so we will be taking the Matterhorn Glacier Express.

23 June, 2023

Zermatt, Switzerland – The Murmelweg – Part Two

Part of the reason for even going to Zermatt has to be the hiking. Not only are the views breathtaking, even on a marginal day, but the air is fresh and clean and very enjoyable. And then there are the mountains, Zermatt has them and much more.

Zermatt

To get anywhere, aside from the town, will require time, energy and a lot of walking. Or, you can purchase tickets to get up the mountains. These can be purchased separately, multi-day pass or the flexi-pass. We found the multi-day pass to be perfect for our needs, since we had no intention of skipping any days (they get a small premium for the flexi-pass, not sure why). The Peak Pass that we purchased, allowed us to travel to all three experiences, the Rothorn (Sunnegga-Blauherd), Gornergrot and the Matterhorn Glacier Experience.

Sunnegga

To get to Sunnegga and Blauherd you can either employ one of the hiking trails or take the cable car up to Sunnegga. From there you can start your hike or take a gondola ride to Blauherd, which gets you closer to the Stellisee, if that is your destination. From there however, you will have to hike.

Matterhorn -Sunnegga – Zermatt, Switzerland

Gondola ride to Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland

The gondola ride goes up and down over some very treacherous terrain. So we decided we would take the gondola ride up and hike back down to Sunnegga.

Blauherd – Stellisee

The Stellisee is a good fifteen minute hike from the Blauherd gondola terminal over rather even, if not slightly downward sloping terrain. It is rather easy and should afford most people no difficulties.

Road and hiking trail to Stellisee – Zermatt, Switzerland

Patti ready to hike – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland

Stellisee hiking sign – Zermatt, Switzerland

Patti with Matterhorn backdrop – Zermatt, Switzerland

The Stellisee is a rather barren, pristine alpine lake nestled on the side of the Unterrothorn. Many people will usually hike up to the refuge on the other side, but since the conditions were not ideal, we decided to just take a photograph of it and start our hike back down.

Murmelweg

Named for the eponymous animal that has made the territory it goes through its home, the Murmelweg is a casual, if not easy hiking trail back to Sunnegga. There are a few technical areas, but nothing that most people will find impossible to pass. I would wear hiking boots though, the trail goes over rocky terrain and a good boot will help stabilize your ankles and aid your hike.

Hiking sign back to Sunnegga – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland

Alpine flowers – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland

Taking the Murmelweg to Sunnegga – Zermatt, Switzerland

Trail behind looking towards Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland

The below video is a fairly good example of what to expect.

We chose this route over the five lakes trail, which you can actually see as you hike this trail, only because we heard that route was rather boring after about the first two lakes. However, if you have the time and motivation, I would commend it, since it has more elevation changes and a bit more challenging than this trail.

Erick and the Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland

Trail turns into rocks – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland

Patti on the Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland

Patti leading the way – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland

A murmel hole – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland

Alpine flowers and valley before Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland

Matterhorn and adjacent peaks – looking towards RiffelalpAnimal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland

Animal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland

The area of Findeln and Gornergrat below – MurmelwegAnimal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland

Getting close to trail end – MurmelwegAnimal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland

Our Route – Map

The following reference map details our trail route. The route was a bit over two miles with only a few hundred feet elevation decline and took us about an hour and a half to complete, stopping frequently for photographs.

Blauherd-Stellisee-Murmelweg-Sunnegga Trail – All Trails – Zermatt, Switzerland

Restaurants

Osteria Bella Italia

An Italian restaurant that is part of hotel on the Bahnhofstrasse, the Osteria Bella Italia is what my wife and I call and overpriced, corporate dining establishment serving food they want to be Italian. It’s not bad, but the preparation is what I would say a bit sub-optimal. Then there are the prices. I paid 22CHF for a small bowl of pasta with garlic and oil, totally unheard of in Italy.

Cauliflower soup – Osteria Bella Italia – Zermatt, Switzerland

spaghetti aglio olio e peperoncino – Osteria Bella Italia – Zermatt, Switzerland

22 June, 2023

Zermatt, Switzerland – A Town Of Tourists – Part One

This week we traveled by train from Turin to Zermatt, Switzerland in the hopes of enjoying the weather and the clean air. There is plenty of clean air, but the weather has remained extremely variable, with it almost always raining in the afternoons.

Zermatt train station – Zermatt, Switzerland

After we got off the EuroCity train in Visp we had to take the local train from there to Zermatt. These trains are run by the canton and are especially equipped to ascend to the 5200ft elevation we needed to ascend in order to get to our destination.

Our broken train – Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn – Zermatt, Switzerland

Unfortunately, our first attempt failed and the train that we were on broke down at its first stop. We had to wait approximately a half an hour before another arrived to complete our journey.

Zermatt

Zermatt is considered a town by the local government and with a constant population of around five thousands, that would seem to be about correct. However, the bulk of the people that you find here are tourists. And as one would expect, the tourist population swells during the weekends as local Swiss and others from neighboring regions come to enjoy the alpine air.

Looking toward the Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland

Looking down the Mattertal – Zermatt, Switzerland

Bahnhofstrasse, the main street – Zermatt, Switzerland

Matterhorn shrouded in clouds – Zermatt, Switzerland

The town is divided by a river with is fed by the many glaciers that surround the town. However, the flow of this river is controlled by a dam and there are signs that warn those who want to sun themselves on the rocks along its banks, that water can be unexpectedly released and you can be swept down river. We actually witnessed the water level rise once due to the rain we had been receiving.

Area above Zermatt along the river – Zermatt, Switzerland

Old Zermatt

There are examples in the upper parts of Zermatt, of the original buildings that were used by the early residents. Some are still in use today. However, with the increased land prices, most have sold out and moved up valley to get away from the tourism gentrification.

Scenery on one of our walks – Zermatt, Switzerland

Original buildings of Zermatt – Zermatt, Switzerland

Older original buildings of Zermatt – Zermatt, Switzerland

The Tradition Julen

Our hotel is the four star The Tradition Julen hotel. It is one of the more pricier hotels in the area but the rooms are very cozy and comfortable. In fact, it is one of the few four star hotels that I have not had the displeasure of asking for something that should be already included in the room! The service is first rate and so far we are having a great stay. It is also close to the center of town, but kind of out of the way too, so you won’t get a lot of tourist walking by the hotel, which makes for a quieter stay.

Our room – Hotel Tradition Julen – Zermatt, Switzerland

Restaurants

During our week long stay here, we ate at an assortment of restaurants. The area does have its traditional food and our hotel actually houses a traditional Valais Stube which serves food like this, mainly raclette, beef fondues and other curiosities.

Stadel Restaurant

The first restaurant we stopped at that had just opened for the summer months. The service and food were good, but I have to knock them a bit for not having any sauerkraut – it is on the menu. It would have paired well with the Water Buffalo Bratwurst I had ordered and enjoyed.

Water Buffalo Bratwurst with potatoes – Stadel Restaurant – Zermatt, Switzerland

Hotel Julen Restaurant

Our hotel has its own restaurant that serves cosmopolitan cuisine. Due to weather complications, we were forced to stay in and enjoy what it had to offer one evening and were not disappointed. We thought the food was very good and the prices fair.

Traditional Wiener Schnitzel with french fried – Hotel Julen Restaurant – Zermatt, Switzerland

Our initial feel for the town is good, it has excellent services and plenty of restaurants and bars. Some of the food can be pricey, but if you stick to the traditional German fare, the prices seem more reasonable. The people are very friendly and speak multiple language, especially English, so getting around should not be an issue.

So we are still here and our next plans included hiking and using the amazing funicular, cog railway and gondola system. I will make additional entries for those once we have completed and recuperated from them a bit. Until then, stay tuned.

26 May, 202331 May, 2023

On our way to Basel, Switzerland

If you are traveling this summer, be prepared, it’s a zoo! This is the small airport of Catania, Sicily – crazy…

21 August, 202126 September, 2021

Basel, Switzerland – Trams, Doors & Fountains

The city that boasts the most museums in Switzerland must also operate and maintain the most streetcars or trams. At least that is my thesis. On closer inspection one will notice they are almost everywhere and if you spend any time in the historic area’s main Marktplatz, where our hotel Märthof was located, they even appear to outnumber the cars.

There are also many interesting doors in Basel. Each appear to be uniquely named and dated, some having historical significance, others more whimsical, all very Basel. All make for an increased desire in discriminating each while you walk around the city.

As one can imagine there are fountains all over Basel, all strategically located. Some obviously served as sources of water for the citizenry during older times, others are more decorative. All betray Basel as the water city that it was and in many aspects, still is today.

Our Hotel

The Basler Märthof hotel sits at the nexus of the grand portion of the historic city. Bordered by the Rhine, the Marktplatz and the hills around it, it sits central to life in this city. Surrounded by shopping and many different types of restaurants, one can find almost anything they want in this cosmopolitan city, where English is spoken as frequently as many other languages, the exception being German.

At the time of our visit, a newly renovated hotel with the most modern of amenities and very spacious rooms. This included access the terrace on the roof for our sitting pleasure or some very nice photographs.

Marktplatz And Rathaus – In The Evening – August 2021

The Trams

Trams are everywhere and give this city’s residence a freedom of movement that is seldom seen elsewhere. From the city’s historic center the network branches out like an octopus, occupying every denizen’s neighborhood within five kilometers.

Tram On Kohlenberg – Basel – August 2021

They can be somewhat of annoyance, making an inordinate amount of low frequency grinding noises, as well as stacking up when you are trying to cross the street. The latter forces you to wait the required time for them to leave, hopefully before more arrive and interfere with your travels across the street. But for the most part, they are a welcome addition to the city’s smorgasbord selection of commutation.

Tram On Mittlere Brücke Over Rhine – Basel – August 2021

The Doors

Entryways in the city of Basel have their own descriptive appeal, as seen below.

Just wandering through the streets an observer will see many examples of craftsmanship, old wrought iron hinges, locks, doorbells and doorknobs. Some of the doorbells are especially amusing, where the owner has carefully preserved the original design and function. Some are pulled, some are twisted and some pressed but all made from old iron that has been braving the environment for hundreds of years in some cases.

The above example old world iron work was found on Martinsgässlein, on our walk down from the Gothic Cathedral Münster. It appeared to be fine example of blacksmith work on an obviously restored door. Here are a few more…

The Fountains

A city historically close to and a heavy user of water, there is no doubt that there would be a plethora of fountains throughout. The most useful and convenient ones are in most cases built into the sides of buildings, whether apartment or governmental. Obviously strategically located in the past for the residents before indoor plumbing was available.

Patti By One Of The Many Bird Fountains Along The Rhine

The Rhine Boats

As an adjunct to all of the trams, buses, taxis, ferries and other forms of conveyance, Basel has a system of Rhine boats along the Rhine. When there isn’t a bridge around when you need one, look around, there may be a Rhine boat!

Rhine Boats – Münsterfähre – St. Johanns Ferry – Basel

Each boat has its own name, owner and distinguishing paint job. They are not motorized! By using a cable strung across the Rhine at strategic points, they use the power of the Rhine’s strong current and their rudder to propel them from one bank of the river to the other. The cabling system is not complicated and only requires the pilot to move a pipe on the boat the moors the cable and then direct the boat appropriately using the rudder.

For the modest fare of €1.90 per person you can climb aboard and be on the other side in a matter of a few minutes. We took the Sankt Albans Fähre or Ferry from Basel, Altstadt Kleinbasel on the east bank to the Altstadt Großbasel on the west bank, that was after we walked along the Rhine on the one side and wanted to cross to visit the Paper Mill on the other.

Sankt Albans Fähre – Pilot And Cabin With More Seating – Basel

Sankt Albans Fähre – Cable Lever And Seating – Basel

The Basler Papiermühl

One of the high points of our trip was a visit the Paper Mill Museum. One would think it would have not much to offer, but in this case they would be wrong.

Basler Papiermühle – Saint Albans Tal – Basel – August 2021

The city of Basel had done an excellent job of creating a museum from an old paper mill using a mixture traditional museum look and feel along with a hands-on approach for younger, as well as older audiences. The individuals performing the demonstrations are very informative, eager to demonstrate and skilled at explaining during the demonstrations any steps left out. In all cases this is shorten the format of each demonstration so that participants can actually take home what they have made.

Basler Papiermühle – Mill Cog and Camshaft

I later talked to the man who ran the paper making demonstration and he related to me all of the inconsistencies in his demonstration, explaining that the process took days to complete, from actually pounding the materials to the dried end production. He was most informative.

Basler Papiermühle – Demonstrator Behind Covid Shield

As was alluded to before, participants actually get to create their own examples of paper using the old techniques. In my case, two sheets of rag based paper with the watermark of the mill, dried using a modern appliance, instead of the old method where they were hung on lines for a few days (as shown above).

Restaurants

While in Basel we did not have to venture far from the hotel, since plenty are in an around the area of the old historic part of the city.

Rosario’s La Sputino

This tiny little Osteria is quaintly tucked into the side of a hillside street coming down from Saint Peters.

A traditional Osteria menu with local favorites, both the type you order and the ones that apparently visit (they seem to get their fair share of the local business crowd). We had the carrot soup and then I had the Gnocchi in sauce and Patti had the Scialatielli Fresoli, which actually are pasta in the shape of green beans.

Fiorentina

Continuing with our Italian cuisine indulgences in Switzerland we visited Fiorentina. An upscale restaurant with terrace seating with grand views of the Rhine. However, if you want the outside seating, reservations are necessary.

We visited this restaurant just after we arrived in Basel and since we were both hungry, so we took a walk, found it, walked in and got seated. I ordered the traditional lasagna and had the panna cotta for dessert.

Ramazzotti

Finally we found the Italian restaurant Ramazzotti which specializes in pizza. Since we were dying for a pizza, not having one for more than month, we ate here and ordered the Pizza Margherita. In fact the food and service was so good here, we ended up eating here a second time.

The second time we tried other fare.

11 August, 2020

Luzern – The Latern City

The fourth largest city in Switzerland and split by the Reuss river on the Vierwaldstättersee, or Lake Lucerne, lies Luzern. A pretty little city with ample bridges and pedestrian streets, where one can easily spend a few days relaxing and enjoying the fine Swiss hospitality of the people here, who speak a dialect of German called Alemannic. I found it impossible to understand and difficult sometimes even when they spoke High German, their dialect’s influence on their pronunciation being that profound.

Hotel Ameron

Our hotel was rather well situated. A block or two got us to the train station one way, the other we can cross the famous Kapellbrücke, or Chapel Bridge. So, it is an excellent place to start a tour of the city.

The Chapel Bridge

The first, and most conspicuous point of interest to see, is the Kapellbrücke. Restored in 1993 after a major fire, some of its paintings survived and can be enjoyed with a casual walk across it to see its namesake church, Saint Peter’s Chapel, or just to get to the other side.

The above is a slideshow of the bridge and its adjacent water tower, or Wasserturm, but the tower has nothing to do with holding water. Rather, it is named so, because it is standing in water. It has had several uses in the past, but recently it now has a tourist shop located within, which is currently temporarily closed due to lack of tourism in the area.

The Spreuer Bridge

This Spreuer Bridge also spans the Reuss river and has a more interesting structure adjacent to it, a turbine house and assembly for generating electricity. It is no longer in use, and was closed in the 1970s due to high maintenance cost and difficulties finding parts.

The bridge also contains the similar paintings as can be found on the Chapel Bridge, along with a small altar celebrating the Madonna.

When it was originally built, the destroyed by a storm, then rebuilt, then renovated

The water from the Reuss picks up speed rapidly after this bridge, as it is confined to a smaller space for the turbine to use. The rapids are swiftly moving and create quite a noise. Unfortunately in the video below, I thought the bridge was the Chapel bridge at the time, since it does have a small chapel or altar within it, so please ignore that comment.

The Musegg Mauer

The Musegg Mauer, or wall, is a long and imposing edifice of the city. It climbs the hill rapidly on the side of the Spreuer Bridge, starting at the Nölliturm, and ends almost at the other side of the city before Zürichstrasse, with the Dächliturm. The towers are arranged as seen below, some of which, like the Wachturm, can be visited.

Here is a short slideshow of our walk around the wall, up the Wachturm and along the top of its wall for some way.

Using the legend provided above, you should be able to identify each tower by its unique shape.

Luzern The City

The rest of the city is geared toward shopping, eating and tourism. It is clear that some shops have fallen on hard times have closed, others are temporarily closed or are opening on modified schedules. Here are some views as you walk through the city.

One thing to note, the city is full of interesting looking doors and cornices. If you keep your eyes open you may see a few things you likely not see elsewhere.

The Lion Monument

Hidden across the Zürichstrasse and in the same area as the Glacier Garden, is the Lion Monument of Luzern. A carving out of solid rock in a very quiet and tranquil place in the middle of a city.

So, if you are looking for a relaxing spot to end your day of walking the town, this park will provide the quiet you need. It is open to the public for free, however, for the Glacier Gardens, there is a fee of 12CHF per person.

Restaurants

The Rathaus Brauerei

If you are hungry and need a bite to eat while walking around, or just need some good Swiss food, the Rathaus Brauerei may fit your needs. It has customary Swiss fare at a reasonable price. They even have expresso and a good selection of wine and beer to wash it down. We had soup, water, wine a large mixed salad, an order of Wurst with Sauerkraut, expresso and Sambuca, all for the reasonable Swiss price of 63CHF. I say reasonable, because all food in Switzerland is expensive. By the way, they have great mustard here, enjoy!

Luzern_110_RathausBraurei — My Salad and Wurstchen Plates

Well that’s it for what we call a whirlwind tour of Luzern. Normally, we like to stay awhile in a place to get the real feel for it, but it was more of a waypoint for us on our way back to Turin. We were glad we stopped by to enjoy what it had to offer, even though it was still very quiet due to the affects of the pandemic.

Bis nächstes Mal, Tschüß!