On the far northeast corner of Lake Leman (a.k.a. Lake Geneva) sits the small vacation town of Clarens, a stone’s throw away from Montreux, Switzerland. Though there really isn’t much to speak of the town itself, aside from some shopping, it has a beautiful waterfront and expansive walking path along the lake called the Quai Perdonnet.
Getting There And Around
From Frankfurt, Germany we took Swiss Airways to Geneva, Switzerland, about an hour and a half flight. At the Geneva airport it is then easy to use the local train system to travel from Geneva to Clarens, with the only exception of having to switch trains once in Renens.
Frankfurt Airport – Frankfurt, Germany
Geneva Airport – Geneva, Switzerland
Travel Cards And Other Arrangements
Depending on your situation it may be prudent to look into some of the many travel cards and discount programs that Swiss Rail system has to offer. Since we were traveling as a rather large family group and were going to use the public transit system often, we decided to at least puchase the Swiss Half-Fare Card. Though initially somewhat expensive, it cuts your fares in half for all types of transportation. Also be aware that every ticket purchased with it, you must also present this card for fare validation, a bit annoying, but it’s Switzerland.
Hotel La Villa
We stayed at the Hotel La Villa, which also has a restaurant by the same name. This hotel is right on the lake and offers scenic views, especially when enjoying a drink or something to eat on the terrace or veranda.
La Villa Hotel – Main Entrance – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel – Our Hotel – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel – Back – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel – Lake Leman – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel – Lake Leman – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel – Lake Leman – Clarens, Switzerland
Restaurants
During our stay we ate at the following restaurants.
Lake Leman At Night – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa
The restaurant is part of the hotel and is very convenient for those staying at the hotel, since all other options are some walk from the hotel. It has a very good menu and a continental breakfast, for those staying at the hotel. Though they offer boiled eggs as a hot entree for breakfast, if you are looking for something more substantial, you may have to look in town.
La Villa Restaurant – Breakfast – Clarens, Switzerland
For dinner the restaurant offers are very nice menu, complete with wine pairings and other amenities.
La Villa Hotel and Restaurant – Side At Night – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel and Restaurant – Front At Night – Clarens, Montreaux, Switzerland
La Villa Restaurant – Lasagna – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Restaurant – Pasta Bolognese – Clarens, Switzerland
Bern was originally settled by Swabians[1]The Zähringen noble family from around Freiburg im Breisgau in the twelfth century and quickly died out within a century. from the lower parts of Germany, it is the fifth largest in Switzerland and was initially surrounded by the Aare river on three sides, with fortifications protecting it’s west side.
Marktgasse – Zytglogge – Bern, Switzerland
Käfigturm – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Zytglogge – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Bern Fresco – Bern, Switzerland
Getting There
Bern does not have a commercial airport, so you will either have use Zürich‘s or Geneva’s and then take a train. We had already started in Geneva, so taking one of the ICE trains from Geneva to Bern was automatic. However, in typical SBB[2]Schweizerische BundesBahnen or Swiss train fashion, it was halted before leaving the Lake Léman area and we had to find another train to continue our two hour journey, which then turned into a three hour trip[3]There have been few times when traveling by train in Switzerland was a normal affair. It is getting to be more like the Deutscher Bahn.
Bern Train Station – Main Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Platform – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Main Waiting Hall – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Main Waiting Hall – Bern, Switzerland
The City
The old medieval city of Bern is rather compact, due to it being confined by the Aare river. The main train station is on the west side of the city, so it is probably best to find a hotel close to it. We stayed at the Hotel Savoy, three blocks away from the train station.
Gerberngasse – Interesting House – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Rose Garden Hill and Paul Klee Center – Bern, Switzerland
Walking from the train station to the Nydeggbrücke, via the Marktgasse of Kramgasse, should not take more than a twenty-five to thirty minutes without stopping. The main shopping avenue is the Marktgasse, which is lined with many watch stores and most other modern shops you expect to see in city that is heavily traveled. See the restaurant section below for where to go for food.
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Anna Seiler Brunnen – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Porticos and Shops – Bern, Switzerland
Rooftops and Houses across the Aare river – Bern, Switzerland
Old house – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Wasserwerkgasse from bridge – Bern, Switzerland
Brunnen Or Fountains
The city has a lot of brunnen, or fountains in English, especially down the middle of the Marktgasse. Most of these have figures or other mythical forms, stylized perhaps from some historical figure.
There is also the Lischetti-Brunnen, also known as the Postgassbrunnen or Upper Postgassbrunnen, which was erected in 1820 next to the Staatskanzelei (State Chancellery) and is to be used by anyone who wishes to experience being a fountain.
Lischettibrunnen – Kronenbrunner or Upper Postgass Fountain – Bern, Switzerland
Hotel Savoy
A fairly good hotel on the Kramgasse, sharing an entrance with another store. We found it reasonably priced for a Swiss hotel and central for visiting the city. The breakfast is rather expensive, as it is in most Swiss hotels, at 30CHF per person. We found this unreasonable and ventured out each morning to stop at one of the many Konditoreien, or pastry shops, in the neighborhood. This option ran around 9-10CHF per person, but was only coffee and a pastry, which for use was sufficient.
Hotel Savoy – Main Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedrals And Churches
A few religious buildings of note in Bern are the Cathedral of Bern and the Church of Saint Peter and Paul.
Cathedral Of Bern
Cathedral of Bern – Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Nave and Alter – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – History of Tower – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Houses of Patrons – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Intricate Facade over Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Fountain – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Backside – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Intricate Facade over Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Church Of Saint Peter And Paul
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Entrance, Rathausgasse – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Rose Window – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Nave and Altar – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Organ – Bern, Switzerland
Bridges And The Aare River
There are two central bridges that span the Aare at the tip of the city. The Untertorbrücke, the first one to be built and is shown on maps of the city from the seventeenth century, and the Nydeggbrücke, which carries the tram and modern vehicular traffic.
Untertorbrücke – Nydeggbrücke over the Aare – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – The Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – Patti and the Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – Patti and the Aare River, Rose Garden on the hill – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke and the Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Bären Park
On one end of the Nydeggbrücke is the Bärenpark, or Bear Park. As early as the beginning of the sixteenth century the city has been known to have a Bärengraben, or Bear Pit, of some type or another. Ostensibly the city becoming eponymously named for the same in 1191 when the Duke of Zähringen killed a bear first on one of his many famous hunts. But seriously, this is just conjecture and there is more evidence that it was from a pre-existing toponym of Celtic origin, possibly berna, meaning cleft.
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Einsteinhaus
On Marktgasse 49, visitors will find the Einsteinhaus, or the apartment that Albert Einstein lived in during his publication of his ground breaking theories of 1905, including his Special Theory of Relativity.
Kramgasse 49 – Einstein House – Bern, Switzerland
Kramgasse 49 – Einstein House – Bern, Switzerland
The Rosengarden Bern
One top of the hill on the other side of the Aare river is the park containing the Rose Garden, or Rosengarden. Unfortunately for us, the roses were not in bloom in May, so we were unable to enjoy their colors. However, there were other flowers, trees and bushes to be enjoyed in the park.
Rose Garden – Patti on walkway up to garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – Patti and the garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – The garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – The garden – Bern, Switzerland
It is here, that Albert Einstein probably contemplated many of the problems around his Theory of Relativity, and a bench here so commemorates his efforts.
Rose Garden – Einstein bench and overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
From this vantage point you get a very good view of the old Medieval city of Bern, with its many churches, bridges and old style houses.
Rose Garden – Overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – Erick and overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
Restaurants
The Bärenplatz and Waisenhausplatz are central areas for restaurants and have a good mix of local Swiss restaurants to Italian and other cuisines.
Bärenplatz – Market on Waisenhausplatz – Bern, Switzerland
Santa Lucia Ristorante
Another Italian restaurant which has a very active lunch crowd. Here you can enjoy reasonable prices and a wide selection of Italian dishes, including pizza. Our first evening here we enjoyed the soup and spaghetti.
Santa Lucia Ristorante – Minestrone Soup – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Spaghetti Bolognese – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Spaghetti and Tomatoes – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Banana Split – Bern, Switzerland
The second time we visited was for lunch, then I ordered a pizza, which was very good and typical of the Neapolitan style from Naples. The house wine is also very pleasant.
Santa Lucia Ristorante – Pizza Margherita – Bern, Switzerland
Ristorante Luce
On the corner of Zeughausgasse and Waghausegasse is the Italian restaurant of Ristorante Luce. If you are looking for higher end Italian food, look no further. The service here is also exceptional, though the seating was a bit cramped.
Ristorante Luce – Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Ristorante Luce – Patti with her Soup – Bern, Switzerland
Here they serve very good Italian specialties and have an excellent wine list. Here you can find Strozzapreti, or Priest Strangler/Choker Pasta with Mozzarella. A rather large and somewhat gummy pasta with an very interesting history.
Ristorante Luce – Strozzapreti Pasta with Buffalo Mozzarella – Bern, Switzerland
I can specifically attest to spending 150CHF for a 375ml bottle of Ornellaia 2019. A DOC wine from Italy with extremely high ratings which regularly fetches $250-$800 a bottle, a truly amazing wine. So if you are a true wine lover, your pallet might enjoy this restaurant.
Ristorante Luce – Ornellaia Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019 – Bern, Switzerland
Expecting very nice weather for the next day, Patti and I purchased cruise tickets from CGN Cruise line at Geneva’s Mont-Blanc port for a day trip to Yvoire, France. Our primary intention was to have lunch away and escape the city’s hustle and bustle. We were not disappointed and had a very enjoyable day on the water and in the town.
Lake Léman – Cornavin – Geneva, Switzerland
CGN Cruise – Tickets for Two – Yvoire, France
Lake Léman – Mont Blanc in the distance – Geneva, Switzerland
Getting There
One of several cruise lines that operate Lake Léman, also known as Lake Geneva, CGN Cruise to Yvoire departs port Mont Blanc in Cornavin twice daily in May for a two hour cruise, stopping at other ports along the way. The ship is a rather large, double paddle-wheel, three deck ship that has dining and full bar for a most enjoyable trip.
Lake Léman – Mont-Blanc Port – Geneva, Switzerland
Lake Léman – Mont-Blanc CGN Cruise – Geneva, Switzerland
Lake Léman – Patti with the Water Jet behind – Geneva, Switzerland
Lake Léman – Leaving – Geneva, Switzerland
Though the air was cool, it was very still for both our outward and inward bound journeys, so the lake was a smooth as glass.
Lake Léman – Port – Yvoire, France
Old Town Gate – Yvoire, France
Rue du Port – Yvoire, France
The Town
It is a rather small town, but well suited for a day-trip. It has at least three large parking lots for visitors who prefer to drive. There are numerous restaurants throughout the town with varying prices ranges, which provide some relief from the high prices in Switzerland.
Typical stone house – Yvoire, France
Caffe in town – Yvoire, France
Stone buildings with wooden roofs – Yvoire, France
Grand Rue – Yvoire, France
Grand Rue – Yvoire, France
Rue de l’Église – Église Saint Pancrace d’Yvoire in background – Yvoire, France
Medieval Gate – Place La Vieille Port – Yvoire, France
Église Saint Pancrace d’Yvoire – Entrance – Yvoire, France
Église Saint Pancrace d’Yvoire – Inside – Yvoire, France
Place La Vieille Port – Yvoire, France
Medieval Gate – Place La Vieille Port – Yvoire, France
Medieval Gate – Place La Vieille Port – Yvoire, France
Flowers – Yvoire, France
Rue de l’Église – cafe – Yvoire, France
There is a small church closer to the water, simple but apparently still in use. The area by the water has a jetty that it used by locals to swim off of and to also dock boats that come in from the lake occasionally.
Ancien Port de Plaisance d’Yvoire – Yvoire, France
Ancien Port de Plaisance d’Yvoire – Yvoire, France
Ancien Port de Plaisance d’Yvoire – Yvoire, France
Ancien Port de Plaisance d’Yvoire – Yvoire, France
Ancien Port de Plaisance d’Yvoire – Yvoire, France
Ancien Port de Plaisance d’Yvoire – Patti – Yvoire, France
Ancien Port de Plaisance d’Yvoire – Glacier Rock – Yvoire, France
Château d’Yvoire – Yvoire, France
Restaurants
Restaurant Les Jardins du Léman
A short walk up the Rue du Port is Les Jardins du Léman restaurant, which has two terraces, a lower and an upper one, where you ostensibly have an unobstructed view of the town and the lake. Since we did not have reservations, we were on the lower terrace, which still was very nice.
Les Jardines du Léman restaurant – Entrance – Yvoire, France
Les Jardines du Léman restaurant – Wine Menu – Yvoire, France
Les Jardines du Léman restaurant – Chateau de la Gardine – Yvoire, France
The staff is attentive at first, then after you’ve ordered, only check on you periodically. So, be prepared to wait a bit, they do become very busy for lunch.
Les Jardines du Léman restaurant – Patti on Terrace – Yvoire, France
The wines here are first rate and I can commend the Chateauneuf du Pape – La Gardine, Domaine Brunel. A beautifully balanced wine with spice and fruity overtones that will go well with most non-fish dishes. It is only offered in half-bottles, which was plenty for lunch and we thoroughly enjoyed it.
Les Jardines du Léman restaurant – Erick on Terrace – Yvoire, France
I ordered the Beef, Charolais Breed, Fillet-Stuffed, in the Salt Pan Black Diamond Sauce with Melanosporum Truffle Emulsion of Ratte Potatoes with Vanilla Oil. It was perfectly cooked and some of the best French food I have had in a long time. Patti had the Turbot fish with seasonal vegetables over squash sauce and a side of cauliflower.
Les Jardines du Léman restaurant – Beef with truffel sauce and potatoes – Yvoire, France
Les Jardines du Léman restaurant – Patti’s Turbot and vegetables – Yvoire, France
The Watch Capitol of the world is no doubt Genève, Switzerland. Many, if not all, of the major buildings that surround Lake Léman are adorned with signs from almost every watch manufacturer in Switzerland.
Lake Léman – Clock Manufacturer Signs – Geneva, Switzerland
Though one would have thought that at this point, old mechanical watches would have out-grown their usefulness, but there must still be enough interest in them to support all the manufacturers. Apparently it is more like the diamond trade, than a typical consumer item.
Geneva – The City
It is difficult to categorize Geneva since the city appears to have many different sections and subsequently a different look and feel around every corner. It some places almost haphazard, where a blend of modern and provincial architectures are often seen close together.
Lake Léman – Brunswick Monument – Geneva, Switzerland
Monument – Geneva, Switzerland
Lake Léman – Point Mount Blanc – Geneva, Switzerland
Lake Léman – Point Mount Blanc – Geneva, Switzerland
English Gardens – Fountain of the Four Seasons – Geneva, Switzerland
Rue du Rhone – Geneva, Switzerland
Flower Shop – Geneva, Switzerland
Park – Geneva, Switzerland
Fountain du Perron – Geneva, Switzerland
L’Ancien Arsenal – Geneva, Switzerland
Grand Theater of Geneva – Geneva, Switzerland
Rue de la Corraterie – Geneva, Switzerland
Tour de L’Ille – Tower of the Isle – Geneva, Switzerland
Fontaine de l’Escalade – Geneva, Switzerland
Molard Plaza – Molard Clock Tower and Old Gate – Geneva, Switzerland
Lake Léman – Jet d’Eau or Jet of Water – Geneva, Switzerland
Hotel Edelweiss
A three star hotel in the Cornavin area of the city. It sits a few blocks from the lake on the north side of the city. Conveniently located to the train station and the lake cruise station, it is a quiet little hotel with a restaurant. The rooms are adequate, though the air conditioning does not work until some undisclosed time in late spring, so your room can be uncomfortable with the sun coming in, so opening the windows is a must.
Hotel Edelweiss – Entrance – Geneva, Switzerland
Lake Léman
Of course the main attraction in Geneva is Lake Léman and the start of the River Rhone. It is a very clear lake and does not appear very large near Geneva, but as you travel out further on the lake it widens into a formidable body of water.
Lake Léman – Point Mount Blanc – Geneva, Switzerland
Lake Léman – Lighthouse – Geneva, Switzerland
Lake Léman – Point Mount Blanc – Geneva, Switzerland
City Parks
There are numerous parks throughout the city, enough to call Geneva a Green City. Though you may not agree or enjoy some of the haphazard architecture that composes the city, they were mindful enough to include a lot of green space throughout it environs.
Banc de la Treille – Longest Bench – Geneva, Switzerland
Bastion Park
One of the main parks, Bastion Park, is located across from the Geneva Theatre and contains the Reformation Wall. It is a very nice park for an afternoon stroll and to cool off. Many of its walkways are shaded and there are fountains where you may collect water for drinking.
Bastion Park – Chess Sets – Geneva, Switzerland
Bastion Park – Luther’s Reformation Wall – Geneva, Switzerland
Bastion Park – Water Fountain – Geneva, Switzerland
Bastion Park – Old Fortress Wall – Geneva, Switzerland
Park du Pin
A smaller park further to the east is Park du Pin. It resides on the knob of hill with many pines and other shrubbery. Strolling through it is enough to take your mind off the busy streets that are around it. On the top, there is seating where one can enjoy the breeze that blows in from the lake.
Promenade du Pin – Overlook – Geneva, Switzerland
Promenade du Pin – Statue – Geneva, Switzerland
Botanical Gardens
Not far from the center of the city on the N15 tram are the Botanical Gardens of Geneva. An impressive collection of species from every continent adorn this park. It is strategically located close to the Genève-Sécheron train station as well, which also provides commuter transportation for the United Nations in Geneva.
Broken Chair – Patti – Geneva, Switzerland
N15 Tram – Nations Stop – Geneva, Switzerland
United Nations – Flags and Main Entrance – Geneva, Switzerland
The park is laid out in four sections. One housing most of the botanical gardens plants from each continent. A second has livestock and out buildings for the housing of exotic species from the tropics. A third has a view of the lake and a final section is purposed for outdoor activities.
There are a number of important churches in Geneva, below are a few to note.
Basilica Notre Dame of Geneva
The Basilica Notre Dame in Geneva is compact in size and is reminiscent of some large cathedrals we have seen elsewhere[1]Saint Mary’s Church and Cathedral in Hudson, New York. Unfortunately during our stay, mass was being said and we felt obligated to leave.
Basilica Notre Dame de Geneva – Entrance – Geneva, Switzerland
Basilica Notre Dame de Geneva – Nave – Geneva, Switzerland
The Russian Orthodox Church in Geneva carries the characteristic golden domes of other orthodox churches. The inside is also gilded in area and very compact. There is a sign asking for donation of 2CHF at the entrance, however during our stay we carried no cash at all on us, so just took a photograph from the doorway.
Russian Orthodox Church – Entrance – Geneva, Switzerland
Russian Orthodox Church – Inside – Geneva, Switzerland
Cathédrale Saint-Pierre Genève
The Cathédrale Saint-Pierre Genève is located in the old section of town, perched on the hill close to Place du Bourg-de-Four, an important piazza in the town. Unfortunately it was not open while we were here, being closed for a Stabat Matar concert series.
Cathedral Saint Pierre – Back View – Geneva, Switzerland
Cathedral Saint Pierre – Side View – Geneva, Switzerland
Cathedral Saint Pierre – Archaeologic Site – Geneva, Switzerland
Cathedral Saint Pierre – Front and Entrance View – Geneva, Switzerland
Tour du Romandie
In 2025 Geneva hosted the Tour du Romandie, the last stage race of the spring before the large stage races of the summer. We were fortunate enough to catch the last stage, Stage 5, or Time Trial Stage, on the end of Pont du Mont Blanc. Very exciting.
Tour of Romandie – Pont du Mont Blanc Turnaround – Stage 5, Time Trial Venue – Geneva, Switzerland
Tour of Romandie – Pont du Mont Blanc Turnaround – Stage 5, Time Trial Venue – Geneva, Switzerland
Tour of Romandie – Pont du Mont Blanc Turnaround – Stage 5, Time Trial Venue – Geneva, Switzerland
Tour of Romandie – Pont du Mont Blanc Turnaround – Stage 5, Time Trial Venue – Geneva, Switzerland
Restaurants
Traveling can be daunting, especially when it comes to the different cuisines. The most challenging of which can be the meat based ones, which may not necessarily agree with everyone’s digestive system. Hence, keeping an open mind when in a cosmopolitan city like Geneva is a good thing. French cuisine can be very good, but it can also take a toll on the body after a few days.
Auberge de Savièse
The little restaurant Auberge de Savièse is on Rue des Pâquis and offers typical French cuisine. If you are into crepes, fondues and similar fare, this place offers them all at reasonable prices, at least for Switzerland. They also offer simple things, like soups and salads, if you prefer something lighter. We just had soup and a salad, so didn’t take any photographs.
Zhong Tong
A Chinese restaurant on Rue du Cendrier 10 has pretty good Chinese food. The service is good and it can get busy, but is never overcrowded. If you are craving vegetables, a must stop, especially after all the cheese and other meat oriented dishes exist within the city.
Zhong Tong Chinese Restaurant – Vegetables and Fried Rice, Pinot Noir – Geneva, Switzerland
Zhong Tong Chinese Restaurant – Dessert, Cirese (cherry) Ice Cream, Pineapple and Oranges – Geneva, Switzerland
The Matterhorn Express, the last leg of our journey here, is the longest of the rides you may take with the Peak Pass. It covers the gondola ride from Zermatt via Furi, all the way up to Klein Matterhorn and the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise.
The Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn – Walking to the gondola entrance – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn – Walking to the gondola entrance – Zermatt, Switzerland
The gondola ride is fairly long and one can hop-on and hop-off and several different places along the way.
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Furi – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Furi – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Zermatt below – Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Schwarzsee
This is about the third stop on the way up and is after Furi. It is just up over massif that separates the high peaks from the valley floor below. In fact, as you go up the hill on the gondola ride you cannot see the Matterhorn until you just about reach Schwarzsee.
Matterhorn at the Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Mattertal and Zermatt from Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Weisshorn and other peaks from Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Denta Blanche from Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn and the Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Erick at the Zermatt – Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Another stop just before Klein Matterhorn is the Trockener Steg. It lays at around eleven thousand feet in elevation, so you will feel some relief from the elevation once you arrive here on the way back down.
Patti and the Matterhorn – Trockener Steg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Klein Matterhorn
The top of the Klein Matterhorn is a cold, snowy and glacier dominated place. It has a commanding view of the Mattertal towards Zermatt and the Aosta Valley inside Italy. From here the Matterhorn looks very different, taking on the appearance of the rest of the horns, as the high peaks in this area are called.
Breithorn – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn and its glacier – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn and its glacier – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn and its glacier – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn and its glacier – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Crystal glacier experience – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Aosta valley, Italy – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Theodul Glacier – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn and surrounding peaks – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Theodul Glacier – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti and the Aosta valley, ItalyTheodul Glacier – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Erick and Aosta valley – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise
The tunnel that has been carved out into the glacier was probably once done on behalf of scientific curiosity and has now become a tourist attraction, complete with ice carvings. An interesting, if not very cold attraction. In order to thoroughly enjoy this you should be properly dressed, it is very cold.
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Conclusion
A must see trip and not for the faint of heart. If you have issues with height, be prepared, the gondola ride brings you across chasms that are quite deep and the gondolas are complete glass, so it will seem as though you are suspended in air. Here are a few videos where you can get an appreciation for what to expect.
We really enjoyed our day on the Matterhorn Express and would recommend it to anyone with plans to visit Zermatt. This concludes our visit to Zermatt, Switzerland.
Coming into Zermatt – Zermatt, Switzerland
Erick and Patti with the Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Another must see place in Zermatt is Gornergrat. You can reach this promontory by using the Gornergrat train, a mountain rack railway, which ascends the mountain passed Riffelalp and Riffelberg.
There are several stops besides these two along the way that one may decide to leave the train and just walk or hike. However, unlike Sunnegga and Blauherd, the terrain here is a bit more unforgiving and vertical. Also, the weather on top of the mountains can be cold and unpredictable, so bring something warm and something waterproof, especially if you are hiking.
Looking towards Dent Blanche – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Gornergrat station – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Looking toward Zermatt and Mattertal – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Chapelle du Gornergrat – Bernhard von Aosta – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Erick at Riffelberg – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Gornergrat Glacier
The height of the trip is the summit and the Gornergrat Glacier. Aside from this, this isn’t much to see, especially in marginal weather when the Matterhorn is obscured.
Panorama of Gorner Glacier – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Riffelberg
On the way down we stopped at Riffelberg, with the hopes of getting some hiking in down to Riffelalp. However, the weather was not looking very good and we were still suffering from our colds, so we decided against it.
View from Riffelberg – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Wanderwege – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Tall Peaks across the valley Matter – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Here are some short videos that were taken of our trip.
Restaurants
We did not eat at the restaurant on the summit, but rather waited until we were back in Zermatt. We left around ten in the morning and were already back a little after noon.
China Garden
Any one seeking good Chinese food at very reasonable prices has to visit the China Garden.
China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti at China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
They have all the dishes which are prepared with continental ingredients and taste delicious. For those that prefer their lunches uncomplicated, here you can definitely find some vegetarian or simple to order.
Spring roll – China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
Vegetable rice with vegetable mix – China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
And of course, after lunch the day would not be complete this week without the customary rain storm. Actually, this was just a gentle shower, later in the day we had a very severe thunderstorm. But we were inside the hotel by then and did not care. Again, the weather can be unpredictable here, so be prepared and check the forecast, they are for the most part reliable.
Tomorrow it’s on to Matterhorn Glacier, so we will be taking the Matterhorn Glacier Express.
Part of the reason for even going to Zermatt has to be the hiking. Not only are the views breathtaking, even on a marginal day, but the air is fresh and clean and very enjoyable. And then there are the mountains, Zermatt has them and much more.
Panorama at Sunnegga – Zermatt, Switzerland
Zermatt
To get anywhere, aside from the town, will require time, energy and a lot of walking. Or, you can purchase tickets to get up the mountains. These can be purchased separately, multi-day pass or the flexi-pass. We found the multi-day pass to be perfect for our needs, since we had no intention of skipping any days (they get a small premium for the flexi-pass, not sure why). The Peak Pass that we purchased, allowed us to travel to all three experiences, the Rothorn (Sunnegga-Blauherd), Gornergrot and the Matterhorn Glacier Experience.
The Peak Pass – Tickets For Two – Zermatt, Switzerland
Sunnegga
To get to Sunnegga and Blauherd you can either employ one of the hiking trails or take the cable car up to Sunnegga. From there you can start your hike or take a gondola ride to Blauherd, which gets you closer to the Stellisee, if that is your destination. From there however, you will have to hike.
The gondola ride goes up and down over some very treacherous terrain. So we decided we would take the gondola ride up and hike back down to Sunnegga.
Sunnegga station – Zermatt, Switzerland
Blauherd – Stellisee
The Stellisee is a good fifteen minute hike from the Blauherd gondola terminal over rather even, if not slightly downward sloping terrain. It is rather easy and should afford most people no difficulties.
Road and hiking trail to Stellisee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti ready to hike – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Stellisee hiking sign – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti with Matterhorn backdrop – Zermatt, Switzerland
The Stellisee is a rather barren, pristine alpine lake nestled on the side of the Unterrothorn. Many people will usually hike up to the refuge on the other side, but since the conditions were not ideal, we decided to just take a photograph of it and start our hike back down.
Stellisee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Murmelweg
Named for the eponymous animal that has made the territory it goes through its home, the Murmelweg is a casual, if not easy hiking trail back to Sunnegga. There are a few technical areas, but nothing that most people will find impossible to pass. I would wear hiking boots though, the trail goes over rocky terrain and a good boot will help stabilize your ankles and aid your hike.
Hiking sign back to Sunnegga – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Taking the Murmelweg to Sunnegga – Zermatt, Switzerland
Trail behind looking towards Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
The below video is a fairly good example of what to expect.
We chose this route over the five lakes trail, which you can actually see as you hike this trail, only because we heard that route was rather boring after about the first two lakes. However, if you have the time and motivation, I would commend it, since it has more elevation changes and a bit more challenging than this trail.
Erick and the Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Trail turns into rocks – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti on the Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti leading the way – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
A murmel hole – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers and valley before Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers and valley before Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Geodetic marker – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn and adjacent peaks – looking towards RiffelalpAnimal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Animal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Animal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Animal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Animal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
The area of Findeln and Gornergrat below – MurmelwegAnimal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Getting close to trail end – MurmelwegAnimal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Our Route – Map
The following reference map details our trail route. The route was a bit over two miles with only a few hundred feet elevation decline and took us about an hour and a half to complete, stopping frequently for photographs.
Blauherd-Stellisee-Murmelweg-Sunnegga Trail – All Trails – Zermatt, Switzerland
Restaurants
Osteria Bella Italia
Osteria Bella Italia – Zermatt, Switzerland
An Italian restaurant that is part of hotel on the Bahnhofstrasse, the Osteria Bella Italia is what my wife and I call and overpriced, corporate dining establishment serving food they want to be Italian. It’s not bad, but the preparation is what I would say a bit sub-optimal. Then there are the prices. I paid 22CHF for a small bowl of pasta with garlic and oil, totally unheard of in Italy.
Cauliflower soup – Osteria Bella Italia – Zermatt, Switzerland
spaghetti aglio olio e peperoncino – Osteria Bella Italia – Zermatt, Switzerland
This week we traveled by train from Turin to Zermatt, Switzerland in the hopes of enjoying the weather and the clean air. There is plenty of clean air, but the weather has remained extremely variable, with it almost always raining in the afternoons.
Zermatt train station – Zermatt, Switzerland
After we got off the EuroCity train in Visp we had to take the local train from there to Zermatt. These trains are run by the canton and are especially equipped to ascend to the 5200ft elevation we needed to ascend in order to get to our destination.
Unfortunately, our first attempt failed and the train that we were on broke down at its first stop. We had to wait approximately a half an hour before another arrived to complete our journey.
Zermatt
Zermatt is considered a town by the local government and with a constant population of around five thousands, that would seem to be about correct. However, the bulk of the people that you find here are tourists. And as one would expect, the tourist population swells during the weekends as local Swiss and others from neighboring regions come to enjoy the alpine air.
Pfarrerkirche and Zermatterhof – Zermatt, Switzerland
Zermatterhof – Zermatt, Switzerland
Looking toward the Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Looking down the Mattertal – Zermatt, Switzerland
Bahnhofstrasse, the main street – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn shrouded in clouds – Zermatt, Switzerland
The town is divided by a river with is fed by the many glaciers that surround the town. However, the flow of this river is controlled by a dam and there are signs that warn those who want to sun themselves on the rocks along its banks, that water can be unexpectedly released and you can be swept down river. We actually witnessed the water level rise once due to the rain we had been receiving.
Gomerabach – Zermatt, Switzerland
Uferweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Uferweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Area above Zermatt along the river – Zermatt, Switzerland
Old Zermatt
There are examples in the upper parts of Zermatt, of the original buildings that were used by the early residents. Some are still in use today. However, with the increased land prices, most have sold out and moved up valley to get away from the tourism gentrification.
Triftbachtal – Zermatt, Switzerland
Triftbachtal – Zermatt, Switzerland
Scenery on one of our walks – Zermatt, Switzerland
Scenery on one of our walks – Zermatt, Switzerland
Original buildings of Zermatt – Zermatt, Switzerland
Older original buildings of Zermatt – Zermatt, Switzerland
The Tradition Julen
Our hotel is the four star The Tradition Julen hotel. It is one of the more pricier hotels in the area but the rooms are very cozy and comfortable. In fact, it is one of the few four star hotels that I have not had the displeasure of asking for something that should be already included in the room! The service is first rate and so far we are having a great stay. It is also close to the center of town, but kind of out of the way too, so you won’t get a lot of tourist walking by the hotel, which makes for a quieter stay.
Our room – Hotel Tradition Julen – Zermatt, Switzerland
Our room – Hotel Tradition Julen – Zermatt, Switzerland
Restaurants
During our week long stay here, we ate at an assortment of restaurants. The area does have its traditional food and our hotel actually houses a traditional Valais Stube which serves food like this, mainly raclette, beef fondues and other curiosities.
Stadel Restaurant
The first restaurant we stopped at that had just opened for the summer months. The service and food were good, but I have to knock them a bit for not having any sauerkraut – it is on the menu. It would have paired well with the Water Buffalo Bratwurst I had ordered and enjoyed.
Water Buffalo Gulash – Stadel Restaurant – Zermatt, Switzerland
Water Buffalo Bratwurst with potatoes – Stadel Restaurant – Zermatt, Switzerland
Hotel Julen Restaurant
Our hotel has its own restaurant that serves cosmopolitan cuisine. Due to weather complications, we were forced to stay in and enjoy what it had to offer one evening and were not disappointed. We thought the food was very good and the prices fair.
Cauliflower soup – Hotel Julen Restaurant – Zermatt, Switzerland
Traditional Wiener Schnitzel with french fried – Hotel Julen Restaurant – Zermatt, Switzerland
Our initial feel for the town is good, it has excellent services and plenty of restaurants and bars. Some of the food can be pricey, but if you stick to the traditional German fare, the prices seem more reasonable. The people are very friendly and speak multiple language, especially English, so getting around should not be an issue.
So we are still here and our next plans included hiking and using the amazing funicular, cog railway and gondola system. I will make additional entries for those once we have completed and recuperated from them a bit. Until then, stay tuned.
The city that boasts the most museums in Switzerland must also operate and maintain the most streetcars or trams. At least that is my thesis. On closer inspection one will notice they are almost everywhere and if you spend any time in the historic area’s main Marktplatz, where our hotel Märthof was located, they even appear to outnumber the cars.
There are also many interesting doors in Basel. Each appear to be uniquely named and dated, some having historical significance, others more whimsical, all very Basel. All make for an increased desire in discriminating each while you walk around the city.
As one can imagine there are fountains all over Basel, all strategically located. Some obviously served as sources of water for the citizenry during older times, others are more decorative. All betray Basel as the water city that it was and in many aspects, still is today.
Our Hotel
The Basler Märthof hotel sits at the nexus of the grand portion of the historic city. Bordered by the Rhine, the Marktplatz and the hills around it, it sits central to life in this city. Surrounded by shopping and many different types of restaurants, one can find almost anything they want in this cosmopolitan city, where English is spoken as frequently as many other languages, the exception being German.
The Märthof Hotel
At the time of our visit, a newly renovated hotel with the most modern of amenities and very spacious rooms. This included access the terrace on the roof for our sitting pleasure or some very nice photographs.
Marktplatz And Rathaus – In The Evening – August 2021
The Trams
Trams are everywhere and give this city’s residence a freedom of movement that is seldom seen elsewhere. From the city’s historic center the network branches out like an octopus, occupying every denizen’s neighborhood within five kilometers.
Tram On Kohlenberg – Basel – August 2021
They can be somewhat of annoyance, making an inordinate amount of low frequency grinding noises, as well as stacking up when you are trying to cross the street. The latter forces you to wait the required time for them to leave, hopefully before more arrive and interfere with your travels across the street. But for the most part, they are a welcome addition to the city’s smorgasbord selection of commutation.
Tram On Mittlere Brücke Over Rhine – Basel – August 2021
The Doors
Entryways in the city of Basel have their own descriptive appeal, as seen below.
Zur Scheuren – 1300 – Basel
Zum Engelberg – 1291 – Basel
Just wandering through the streets an observer will see many examples of craftsmanship, old wrought iron hinges, locks, doorbells and doorknobs. Some of the doorbells are especially amusing, where the owner has carefully preserved the original design and function. Some are pulled, some are twisted and some pressed but all made from old iron that has been braving the environment for hundreds of years in some cases.
Old Wrought Iron Doorknob
The above example old world iron work was found on Martinsgässlein, on our walk down from the Gothic Cathedral Münster. It appeared to be fine example of blacksmith work on an obviously restored door. Here are a few more…
The Doors Of Basel
The Doors Of Basel
The Doors Of Basel
The Doors Of Basel
The Fountains
A city historically close to and a heavy user of water, there is no doubt that there would be a plethora of fountains throughout. The most useful and convenient ones are in most cases built into the sides of buildings, whether apartment or governmental. Obviously strategically located in the past for the residents before indoor plumbing was available.
St Albans Fountain
Spalen Fountain
Sevogel Fountain
Unknown
Patti By One Of The Many Bird Fountains Along The Rhine
Gemsberg Fountain
The Rhine Boats
As an adjunct to all of the trams, buses, taxis, ferries and other forms of conveyance, Basel has a system of Rhine boats along the Rhine. When there isn’t a bridge around when you need one, look around, there may be a Rhine boat!
Rhine Boats – Münsterfähre – St. Johanns Ferry – Basel
Each boat has its own name, owner and distinguishing paint job. They are not motorized! By using a cable strung across the Rhine at strategic points, they use the power of the Rhine’s strong current and their rudder to propel them from one bank of the river to the other. The cabling system is not complicated and only requires the pilot to move a pipe on the boat the moors the cable and then direct the boat appropriately using the rudder.
For the modest fare of €1.90 per person you can climb aboard and be on the other side in a matter of a few minutes. We took the Sankt Albans Fähre or Ferry from Basel, Altstadt Kleinbasel on the east bank to the Altstadt Großbasel on the west bank, that was after we walked along the Rhine on the one side and wanted to cross to visit the Paper Mill on the other.
Sankt Albans Fähre – Pilot And Cabin With More Seating – Basel
Sankt Albans Fähre – Cable Lever And Seating – Basel
The Basler Papiermühl
One of the high points of our trip was a visit the Paper Mill Museum. One would think it would have not much to offer, but in this case they would be wrong.
Basler Papiermühle – Saint Albans Tal – Basel – August 2021
The city of Basel had done an excellent job of creating a museum from an old paper mill using a mixture traditional museum look and feel along with a hands-on approach for younger, as well as older audiences. The individuals performing the demonstrations are very informative, eager to demonstrate and skilled at explaining during the demonstrations any steps left out. In all cases this is shorten the format of each demonstration so that participants can actually take home what they have made.
Basler Papiermühle – Mill Cog and Camshaft
Basler Papiermühle – Rag Pounder
I later talked to the man who ran the paper making demonstration and he related to me all of the inconsistencies in his demonstration, explaining that the process took days to complete, from actually pounding the materials to the dried end production. He was most informative.
As was alluded to before, participants actually get to create their own examples of paper using the old techniques. In my case, two sheets of rag based paper with the watermark of the mill, dried using a modern appliance, instead of the old method where they were hung on lines for a few days (as shown above).
Brook That Powers The Mill
The Mill Room
Making Paper
Klopapier
Typography
Typography
Restaurants
While in Basel we did not have to venture far from the hotel, since plenty are in an around the area of the old historic part of the city.
Rosario’s La Sputino
This tiny little Osteria is quaintly tucked into the side of a hillside street coming down from Saint Peters.
Rosario’s La Sputino
A traditional Osteria menu with local favorites, both the type you order and the ones that apparently visit (they seem to get their fair share of the local business crowd). We had the carrot soup and then I had the Gnocchi in sauce and Patti had the Scialatielli Fresoli, which actually are pasta in the shape of green beans.
Patti In Front Of Menu
Gnocchi
Dessert, ummmm
Fiorentina
Continuing with our Italian cuisine indulgences in Switzerland we visited Fiorentina. An upscale restaurant with terrace seating with grand views of the Rhine. However, if you want the outside seating, reservations are necessary.
My Lasagna
Panna Cotta
We visited this restaurant just after we arrived in Basel and since we were both hungry, so we took a walk, found it, walked in and got seated. I ordered the traditional lasagna and had the panna cotta for dessert.
Ramazzotti
Our Pizza
Finally we found the Italian restaurant Ramazzotti which specializes in pizza. Since we were dying for a pizza, not having one for more than month, we ate here and ordered the Pizza Margherita. In fact the food and service was so good here, we ended up eating here a second time.
