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Zagreb, Croatia – Golden Bull

Zagreb, the etymology of the name even today is disputed, is actually composed of two historic city centers, Kaptol to the east and Gradec to the west. Today, it consists of an even larger metropolitan area, where more than a million people live.

Zagreb

On a normal day, the historic parts of the city are filled with tourists and sightseers, however the weekends can be quieter. We arrived on a Sunday and found it strangely quiescent.

Kaptol was the first to be formally recognized as pertaining to Zagreb, followed by Gradec some time later through King Bela IV edict of the Golden Bull. They both sit upon their corresponding hills and lay alongside one another, being separated somewhat by a slight depression where the Тkalčićeva ulica street runs.

Getting There

Coming from Turin we flew with Air Dolomiti to Munich and then later on to Zagreb, two short one hour flights which took us about five hours to complete with layover.

The Zagrab airport is small, perhaps smaller than most would expect. It took us approximately an hour to get our luggage, once we had left the plane. So do not expect the speedy luggage service you may enjoy elsewhere, here, things definitely move slower. In such cases, it might be good to have air-tags, just to keep an eye on where your luggage is, before getting alarmed. We got them as a gift and they really came in handy.

Of course you can also come by car, but from what we can see, parking is a problem and quite expensive. Train, is also an option, though we ruled it out due to scheduling issues and other considerations.

Lower Zagreb

We stayed in Lower Zagreb very close to Kaptol and the main square. From here we were able to visit most parts of the old city within a ten to fifteen minute walk.

Zrinjevac Park

Actually many parks in tandem and tied together by several buildings and monuments. It is actually a nice place to take a stroll and enjoy the salubrious spring weather.

Gradec

To the west of Kaptol and across small depression represented by Pavla Radica, where you will find many bars, cafes and some restaurants, is Gradec, also referred to as Grič.

 

The Stone Gate

One of the entrances to Gradec is via the Stone Gate. It is adorned by a statue of Saint George before you get there and actually contains a small chapel.

Saint Mark’s Church

The most prominent structure here is Saint Mark’s Church. Noted for its polychrome roof tiles depicting the coats of arms of Croatia and Zagreb, it is a beautiful to see. Again, like other structures in the area, it too was damaged by the earthquake and was still undergoing renovations at the time of our visit. Therefore, we were unable to go inside or even get up close to its facade.

Observation Tower

The Observation Tower, or Lotrščak Tower, can be found near Saint Mark’s Church in Gradec. It is right next to the Furnicular station to Lower Zagreb and can be ascended for a modest fee. We chose not to, since the weather was terrible and it was raining and overcast.

Tunel Grič

Built during World War II as a bomb shelter, the Tunel Grič, or Gric Tunnel is commonly used as a pedestrian path now, even though several sections of it are in disrepair and no longer used. The main section spans about a quarter of a mile an connects western side of Gradec with the eastern side on Pavla Radica street.

Kaptol

Even today it appears that most of the real estate here is consigned to the Roman Catholic clergy in one form or another. It is here where you will find the Cathedral of Zagreb, the seat of arch bishop.

Walking the Kaptol street is very relaxing. All of Zagreb is rather well cared for in one repect or another, but this area even more so with its beautiful buildings and well maintained park, the Ribnjak Park.

Zagreb Cathedral

An enormous and the most prominent building in Kaptol is the Zagreb Cathedral. It is the second tallest building in Croatia and is surrounded by the Kaptol Fortress. Unfortunately at this writing, it was undergoing heavy reconstruction after the 2020 Earthquake., where most of its facade and interior are shrouded in construction scaffolding and screens.

The southern spire had snapped off during the quake and crashed onto one of the adjacent buildings. The northern spire was later removed because it was leaning and can now be seen alongside the cathedral, waiting for its eventual return.

Restaurants

Gostionica Ficlek

The restaurant Gostionica Ficlek is a good place to enjoy the gastronomy of Croatia and Zagreb. It has a fine collection of tasty treats on its menu that can be tried for a more than reasonable price. The traditional chicken soup tastes like a typical chicken soup, until you notice the dumplings, which just puts it over the top.

Heritage Street Food

For lunch, Patti selected a tiny establishment on Petrinjska street, known as Heritage Street Food. Their concentration is on Paninis and Focaccia style sandwiches, which when combined with other delectable sides, create a truly enjoyable and tasty little adventure for your palate.

Caffe & Bar Jupi

The day that we left Zagreb we visited a small cafe for breakfast called Caffe & Bar Jupi. Patti ordered the pancakes with fruit and I had the scrambled eggs. Both were delicious and hit the spot on a busy and somewhat chilly morning.

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Michelstadt, Germany – Odenwald Curiosity

On the border of Hesse and Bavaria, in the Odenwald, is the town of Michelstadt. It’s curious, because its name contains within it a word that most english speaking people would think it should be a city, when in fact, the germans use the denotation for both town and city. Technically, it is considered a Kleinstadt, or small city, or what we call a town and should carry the stadt on the end of its name.

Michelstadt

The town is one of the oldest within what is called the inner Odenwald. There has been some sort of settlement there ever since the eighth century. Like other small towns of this nature, its layout has a certain lazy circle about it, indicating it was protected by some kind of fortification or wall. Evidence of this can be found on Kellerbergstraße, where part of the wall remains, and Mauerstraße where it can be seen in its former glory.

Getting There

To get to Michelstadt you will take either the 45 or 47 from the north or the south. On the north of town is a very large parking area which we used, conveniently located close to the town’s center.

Town Hall

The Town Hall, or Rathaus, is one of the more prominent buildings in the town. It stands a bit off-center in the Marktplatz and has an old press, a scale and other items associated with the buildings history in the open area underneath it.

The Marktplatz contains a main foutain, which the town appears to decorate for holidays and other occasions.

Michelstadt Fortress

The Michelstadt Fortress, or Burg Michelstadt, is probably more of a stronghold than any castle or fortress. Though it sits on a high wall with a moat, it is not as impressive as other german castles or fortresses. Today it houses a mill museum, which unfortunately was not open at the time of our visit.

Diebsturm

The Diebsturm, or Thieves’ Tower, is part of and sits next to Burg Michelstadt. The sump or cellar of the tower was used as a prison starting sometime in the early fourteenth century. Prisoners were lowered down on a rope into the cellar to wait our their term. It is one of the more prominent features of the town.

Dr. I. E. Lichtigfeld Museum

This museum preserves the jewish past of the town, neatly preserved in the former Synagoge Michelstadt that was destroyed during the prelude to the second world war.

Here one can get a sense of the small jewish population that used to inhabit the town, which also has numerous Stolpersteine[1]these are small brass memorials laid in the ground for jews and people who were killed, deported or driven to suizide commemorating the people of the town that lost their lives. They can be found throughout Germany and parts of Europe.

The museum also backs up to the old town wall and has a nice little park, where one can quietly sit and enjoy the weather.

Restaurants

Due to its size, there is not much to choose from, but there are a few restaurants in the Marktplatz. We chose a brewery close to the edge of town for lunch.

Michelstädter Rathausbräu

The Michelstädter Rathausbräu is a brewery and restaurant. It serves good food typical of the area. They don’t speak much english, so be prepared to whip out your translation guide or phone. However, the food is very good and they have their own brew on tap.

References

References
↑1 these are small brass memorials laid in the ground for jews and people who were killed, deported or driven to suizide