If you are into hiking and enjoy a really good weekend excursion, then the Metropolitan town of Turin has something great to offer, the tiny little town of Ivrea. Known for being part of the Via Francigena[1]The ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome. and Five Lake hiking area, it is a great place to spend a few days.
Via Francigena – Hiking and Trail Sign – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Hiking and Trail Guide – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Way through the city – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Way through the city – Ivrea, Italy
Getting There
This town can be reached in just under an hour’s train ride from Porta Nuovo in Turin. The Regional Veloce (RV) runs directly from the main train station, through Porta Susa and onto Ivrea. Unfortunately, the line no longer continues to Aosta, so those who are stopping over have to use the bus service to continue their journeys.
Porta Nuovo Train Station – Main Lobby – Turin, Italy
Ivrea Train Station – Outside – Ivrea, Italy
The Hotel
We stayed at the Hotel 3T on Via Sant’Ulderico, a modern hotel that has most of the amenities. One thing I disliked about this hotel, at least during this time of year (Spring), is that the thermostat makes you believe you have control over the temperature in your room, when in fact you don’t!
3T Hotel – Castle Sabaudo, At Night – Ivrea, Italy
3T Hotel – Our Room, 209 – Ivrea, Italy
3T Hotel – Our Room, 209 – Ivrea, Italy
The Town
The town is cut in two by the Dora Baltea river, which offers a few courses for avid kayakers and seems to draw them from all over. The river here cuts right through the native diorite rock, which can be seen everywhere you look and presents a dark geologic hardness that makes it such a stable building foundation; practically everything, including the hospital, is built on it.
Dora Baltea River – Train Bridge to Aosta, closed – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Ponte Vecchio – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Train Bridge to Aosta, closed – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – From Ponte Vecchio – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Fontana Camillo Olivetti – Ivrea, Italy
There is not much to the town itself, just the Lungodora, or walkway along the river, and one central main street where one can find most of the shops, cafes and other stores.
Dora Baltea River – Corse Re Umberto – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Corse Re Umberto – Ivrea, Italy
Castle Saubauda
A large rectangular castle built in the fourteenth century by the Savoy family. It is only open certain times during the year and one has to reserve their guided tour ahead of time. We were only able to see the outside and sometimes at night it is lit up in different colors.
Sabaudo Castle – Ivrea, Italy
Sabaudo Castle – Ivrea, Italy
Ivrea Cathedral
Actually known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of Saint Mary, or Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, is very close to the castle on the hilltop. It is in need of restoration and there are several, apparently small projects already underway inside the cathedral.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Entrance – Ivrea, Italy
Inside the cathedral is actually quite impressive. The nave is well decorated with ceiling frescoes and religious art. It is quite dark and reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel before that was restored and suffers from decades, if not centuries or candle and other smoke.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Nave and ceiling – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Aisle – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen entrance – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, bricked up window – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Nave and Organ – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Transept – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen ceiling frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
The Crypt
The main attraction of the crypt are the frescoes. When possible the caretakers of the cathedral have installed lighting, so that you can adore without the need for using the flash on your camera, which you should never do.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Restaurants
Moma
Moma is actually a bar and restaurant, so you can stop their early for a drink before dinner, or wait until 7PM and dine there as well. They have a fairly good selection of food which may be considered cosmopolitan and some Piedmont dishes. Both of our dishes were very good and came with rather large portion size which is unusual of Italy.
Moma Restaurant – Pork Filet with French Fries and Coleslaw – Ivrea, Italy
Moma Restaurant – Norwegian Salmon with Potatoes and Eggplant – Ivrea, Italy
With optimism in the weather and a plan for a good day, we headed to Sintra, Portugal, in the hopes of seeing the Moorish Castle or the National Palace of Pena. Unfortunately, shortly after we arrived our hopes were dashed after we learned the weather had trashed the place and everything in the park was more or less closed due to too many fallen trees, so a missed outing.
Park – Sintra, Portugal
How To Get There
By metro it takes about forty-five minutes, leaving Lisbon’s Rossio metro station, a number of blocks from our hotel uphill, to Sintra station about a dozen stops away. This metro line is very busy, so be prepared.
Tickets For Two – Sintra, Portugal
Rossio Station – Platform – Lisbon, Portugal
Train Station – Sintra, Portugal
The Town
Is chaotically laid out and has many narrow passageways and alleys. As with most of Portugal, you get the feeling you must always climb up or down, so be prepared for a lot of steps.
Old Buildings – Sintra, Portugal
Municipal Building – Sintra, Portugal
Quinta da Regaleira
The Quinta da Regaleira was another issue. Though we wanted to visit the property, it only has reservations and time slots. Aside from that, the line was so long, since everyone was looking for alternatives due to the closures, that it was quickly out of available times. So we took some photographs and turned around.
Quinta da Regaleira Palace – Sintra, Portugal
Quinta da Regaleira Palace – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace
Having failed to come on a day when the majority of the park was open, we settled on the Biester Palace, so that the day and trip was not a total loss.
Biester Palace – Map – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Stairs to Palace – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Front – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Back Entrance – Sintra, Portugal
Not technically a palace, the residence that is called Biester Palace stands prominently and views from the grounds are very nice. The grounds are quiet enough and there is a cafe where one can enjoy a hot or cold drink while enjoying the beautiful flora.
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
The house itself is decorated with wood, a majority of its finish and main rooms are adorned with something similar, if not, oak. One comes away with the house having an almost Spartan interior and the chapel appears to be the most adorned room in the house.
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Chapel – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Bathroom – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Scullery – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
There is an elevator, though it was never electrified and gives the appearance that it was only used when company was present, or for other civil tasks.
Biester Palace – Elevator Hand Mechanism – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Elevator – Sintra, Portugal
The Ninth Gate
One claim to fame this house has that might appeal to some, it was one of the locations where Roman Polanski shot the film The Ninth Gate. It was during Dean Corso’s travels to visit Victor Fargas that the house and fountain are involved in the movie.
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Ninth Gate Book Prop and Postcards – Sintra, Portugal
Restaurants
In Sintra there are plenty of restaurants and cafes, so you shouldn’t have a difficult time to find a place to eat.
Fatto da Claudio Coelho
A nice place for lunch, service Italian food and other specialties. We each shared the bruschetta and a pasta special, so something simple and somewhat light.
Fatto da Claudio Coelho – Entrance – Sintra, Portugal
Fatto da Claudio Coelho – Patti Waiting For Lunch – Sintra, Portugal
We had beautiful weather for our trip from Porto to Lisbon. The train was packed and this was even the off-season for travel. As far as comfort, the train line between the two cities is a bit rough and curvy, so if you have any form of travel sickness, take your medications!
Campanhã Station – Porto, Portugal
Campanhã Station – Porto, Portugal
Campanhã Station – Porto, Portugal
There were several areas along the way that showed the affects of all the rain Portugal has received this spring. Several places were flooded and there appeared to be a lot of farm land underwater.
Weather and Flooding along the way – Porto to Lisbon, Portugal
Weather and Flooding along the way – Porto to Lisbon, Portugal
Lisbon Central Station
The main train station in the city is Lisbon Central Station, which is also a bus and metro hub, so you have several travel options when you arrive to your hotel. We chose a cab, but be careful and take a photograph of your meter before you get out, our cab driver still tried to rip us off. Instead of the 12.60€ he was owed, he tried to charge us 20€ and finally got 15€. He was very talkative and did show us a few sights along the way, but it still annoyed the both of us.
Lisbon Central Station – Lisbon, Portugal
Lisbon Central Station – Lisbon, Portugal
Palácio das Especiarias
We stayed at the Palácio das Especiarias, a boutique hotel on the edge of the old historic part of town.
Palacio das Especiarias – Entrance – Lisbon, Portugal
They have individualized rooms, a beautiful garden and many free amenities.
Palacio das Especiarias – Entrance – Lisbon, Portugal
Palacio das Especiarias – Garden – Lisbon, Portugal
Palacio das Especiarias – Room – Lisbon, Portugal
Palacio das Especiarias – Room – Lisbon, Portugal
Palacio das Especiarias – Stairway – Lisbon, Portugal
Palacio das Especiarias – Stairway – Lisbon, Portugal
Palacio das Especiarias – Stairway to Breakfast – Lisbon, Portugal
Palácio das Especiarias – Daily Breakfast – Lisbon, Portugal
Every day after 3PM, they have free wine and cheese downstairs, which you may also take up to the garden or even your rooms. The wine appears to come from the Duoro River region and is pretty good.
Palacio das Especiarias – Welcome Room – Lisbon, Portugal
Restaurants
Azia Thai Restaurant
Pretty tired from our journey we immediately started looking for comfort food, what better cuisine than Chinese food!
Azia Chinese Restaurant – Inside – Lisbon, Portugal
It is a small restaurant but prepares all manner of dishes, from Thai, Japanese to Chinese. They also have a pretty good wine list with half bottles. The wonton soup with noodles is very good and highly commended.
Azia Chinese Restaurant – Spring Rolls and Wine – Lisbon, Portugal
Azia Chinese Restaurant – Soup and Salad – Lisbon, Portugal
Azia Chinese Restaurant – Chicken Fried Rice – Lisbon, Portugal
After a dismal start and a break in the weather, we were able to explore the city of Porto a bit more rigorously. There are probably only a handful of streets that do not go up or down, so have your trekking legs prepared.
Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal
São Bento Train Station
The inner city train station, and perhaps the original Porto Central Station, is the São Bento Train Station. Known for its tiled waiting hall, it is known now more for its artwork than for its use as a primary station; Campahnã having eclipsed it as the main train station now. Unfortunately, it is beset by a very large public works project outside at the moment, so access is through side entrances for the most part.
Sao Bento Train Station – Entry Hall – Porto, Portugal
Sao Bento Train Station – Entry Hall – Porto, Portugal
Sao Bento Train Station – Tracks – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira
A scenic spot on the River Duoro in the center of the old city is the Praça da Ribeira. It has several pieces of art to enjoy and the Cube Fountain, which is surrounded by a myriad of restaurants and cafe tents. It is along the Cias de Ribeira or promenade where you can enjoy a nice walk, listen to music or just enjoy the river.
Praça da Ribeira – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira – Cube Fountain – Porto, Portugal
Luís I Bridge
Between the Praça da Ribeira, RibeiraDoPorto and the other side of the river, or Vila Nova de Gaia, is the Luís I Bridge, which was originally proposed by Gustave Eiffel, even though he did not win the competition to build it.
Praça da Ribeira – Luis I Bridge – Porto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge – Douro River Upstream – Porto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge – Vila Nova de Gaia – Porto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge – View of Praça da Ribeira – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira – Luis I Bridge – Porto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia
On the other side of the river is the area or civil parish of Vila Nova de Gaia. This prefecture or parish you can find many of the great port wine houses, such as Sandeman, Kopke and Warres to name a few. It also has a very nice river side promenade that can be enjoyed on a nice sunny day.
Vila Nova de Gaia – Praça da Ribeira – Porto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia – Sandeman Port – Porto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal
Churches
Our visit here continues with a few other churches, which we were unable to see the previous day.
Church Of Saint Anthony
A regular church by any measure, the church of St. Anthony does have a remarkable gilded altar, which would be the prize of any structure.
Church of Saint Anthony – Outside – Porto, Portugal
Church of Saint Anthony – Nave and Altar – Porto, Portugal
Church of Saint Anthony – Altar – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church
Best known for its Portuguese tiled exterior, the Carmo Church sits on top of the hill next to the Lion Fountain and its park. The tiling on the outside is unfortunately covered with a gauze, no doubt to protect the surface of the tiles from prolonged exposure to the elements, so taking photographs at a distance is probably best.
Tickets For Two – Carmo Church – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Entrance with Church of the Carmelitas on the left – Porto, Portugal
The interior is nice and in the baroque style of churches. Its other claim to fame are the side altars depicting Christ in one form of tribulation or another.
Carmo Church – Nave from above – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Organ – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Nave and Altar – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Nave and Organ from above – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Side Altar – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Side Altar – Porto, Portugal
The Hidden House
Between the Carmo Church and the Church of the Carmelites is the Hidden House. A four story structure built between the two to prevent the appearance of impropriety, though it has had other uses throughout its 250 years.
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
The Museum
The museum of the Carmo Church houses the typical treasure and other important items used and passed down by the church through the years. There are some things of note, like the collection of hands, as well as other peculiar things that have to be seen to believe.
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Restaurants and Cafes
The restaurants and cafes in Porto come in clusters, perhaps due to it being a tourist hot spot. They seem to line most of the more important streets and more heavily trafficked areas.
Casa Deolinda
A good spot for lunch would be the Casa Deolinda right within the Praça da Ribeira. We actually felt more compelled to eat here only due to the weather, but we were not disappointed. The food was good and the service was above what we had experienced in other places. The prices were not too bad either, considering its location.
Praça da Ribeira – Restaurant Deolinda – Porto, Portugal
Restaurant Deolinda – Vegetable Soup with Tuna Salad – Porto, Portugal
Restaurant Deolinda – Vegetable Soup with Cod Fish Fritters and Hot Chocolate – Porto, Portugal
The weather too, did not disappoint.
Fabrica da Nata Cafe
Known for its Portuguese Nata, or Pastel de Nata, are a custard cream delight found at Fabrica da Nata. There is a special little room within the cafe where they prepare these treats inside a glass enclosure. The cappuccino in Portugal is bit different from its Italian parent, it has more milk and is usually not as strong.
Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Making Pastries – Porto, Portugal
Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Inside – Porto, Portugal
Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Breakfast – Porto, Portugal
Popina Restaurant
On the smaller scale, if you are looking for an authentic Portuguese adventure in cuisine, look no further than Popina. They have classic dishes here that are served like appetizers and are meant to be shared, so think family-style in a way. You select several items from the menu, all of which are brought out when they are ready, and them divide them accordingly. The order in which they are brought out though can appear a bit confused and disorderly, but bear with the process and you should not be disappointed.
Due to the fact that we came back to Bari for one night, since our return flight leaves out of Bari airport, we thought one last post on other things we had not mentioned in our prior posts might be in order. We booked and stayed again at Murex Bed and Breakfast, and sometimes when you’ve already been in a town or city, that may make all the difference.
Corso Regina Elena – Trani, Italy
We enjoyed our stay in Bari, but felt that if it weren’t for its location to other places that interested us, we probably would have just done a day trip to it. So, I would consider it more a place of convenience than one you can sink your teeth into and really enjoy, like Trani.
Various Other Points Of Interest In The City
Below are some of the other points of interest that can be easy to miss just walking around looking at the next pin on your map. This is one advantage of slow travel, having the time just to meander around and have a proper Stadtbummel. One word of caution, if you plan on taking a walk along the Lungomare Araldo di Crollalanza make sure the wind is blowing out to sea. The water surrounded by the Faro Molo Sant’Antonio is a real sewer and stinks.
Via Vittorio Emanuelle – Bari, Italy
Micuzzi building – Bari, Italy
Teatro Margherita – Bari, Italy
Teatro Petruzzelli – Bari, Italy
Lungomare Araldo di Crollalanza – A real sewer – Bari, Italy
Bari Centralé
The main train station in Bari is a must for those taking day trips in and out of the city. It is approximately a fifteen to twenty minute walk from the historic center straight down the main shopping avenue of Via Sparano da Bari. It connects with all forms of TrennItalia trains and some regional trains as well.
Bari Centrale train station – Bari, Italy
Restaurants
Some final thoughts on restaurants in Bari. The below are some of the places we visited when we just didn’t know what to do, the weather was cooperating or we were just looking for something different.
Saporé Cucineria Pugliese
Saporé has authentic Pugliese Cuisine and snack food and is located on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. Nothing fancy here, just good home cooking with traditional food items, Apulia’s answer to fast food. Don’t worry, you shouldn’t break your wallet at this establishment. Even the wine is reasonably priced.
Menu – Saporé Cucineria Pugliese – Bari, Italy
Deep fried pizza bits with sea salt – Saporé Cucineria Pugliese – Bari, Italy
Panzerotti Ricotta Forte – Saporé Cucineria Pugliese – Bari, Italy
Panzerotti Ricotta Forte – Saporé Cucineria Pugliese – Bari, Italy
Da Michele Pizzeria
The famous pizza of Naples comes to Bari with Da Michele’s Pizzeria. His classic thin crust and speedy service never disappoints. If you are looking for something in a pinch, don’t have a lot of time, or are just tired of eating Pugliese cuisine, Da Michele’s Pizzeria will have something for you. It is located on the corner of Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and Via Benedetto Petrone.
Da Michele Pizzeria – Original Neapolitan Pizza – Bari, Italy
Da Michele Pizzeria – Margherita Pizza – Bari, Italy
Da Michele Pizzeria – BaBa pastry – Bari, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Pechino
If you are someone who needs a fix of Chinese food every once in a while like me, then Ristorante Cinese Pechino might suit your needs. It was a five minute walk just inside Murat from our Bed & Breakfast in the historic district.
The food is a bit on the salty side, as I found the Maiale con Cipolle (pork and onions in brown sauce). However, the Wonton Soup was very good as were the Involtini Primavera.
Anyone who has ever had an interest in trains, or perhaps would just enjoy a trip down memory lane, the Museo Ferroviario dell Puglia might be the place to stop on a lazy day during vacation or the weekend.
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia
Located in Lecce is the Museo Ferroviario della Puglia, or the Train Museum of Puglia. The museum has an extensive collection of period photographs, models and dioramas which reconstruct the evolution of the carriage compartment and other railroad memorabilia from 1937 onwards. From the first nineteenth century carriages with their steam locomotives, which were very similar to the old stagecoaches, the visitor enjoys a tour through railroad history. With displays on the Trans European Express (TEE), there are not only Italian examples of carriages, locomotives and communication history, but also examples from other European countries. There is also a brief display on the development of public railroads in America, before they were forced to their demise by politicians beholding to the automobile and oil industries, never to recover. The entrance fee is 5€ per person and worth every Euro. It took a little over an hour to complete the tour, stopping for photographs and reading many of the displays.
Warning: The opening and closing times for this museum may vary, so check to make sure you have plenty of time to get there before you try to go. The staff close the doors a little under an hour before the posted closing time and will not entertain any new visitors, so get there early or well within the closing time posted, or you will be turned away!
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Tickets For Two – Lecce, Italy
The Building And Sheds
The building where the museum is housed were former workshops of the Squadra Rialzo, or State Railways. These were in full operation until 1992 when their functions were transferred to newer facilities in Surbo Scalo.
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Entrance Accolades – Lecce, Italy
In the workshop, customary maintenance was performed on all carriages, locomotives and freight wagons at the time. Its name is derived from the fact that maintenance for the rolling stocks of the trains were actually carried out here for all axles, wheels, in addition to the carriage bodies and their contents. The current facility consists of two sheds, the first erected in the 1930s, the second with the trusses was built later, sometime in the 1970s. Both were used for numerous purposes, including offices, warehouse stocks, carpentry, forge, upholstery and heating systems. The yard had accommodation to raise wheel sets with a hoist, so that they may be reconditioned and maintained.
The Story
There is a long exhibit that details the history promised in the introduction. Taking you through the stages of evolution of the twentieth century train system in Italy. There are numerous boards to read, posters and model carriages to see along the first stage of the exhibits.
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Tour – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Tour – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Tour – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Carriage 1937 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Posters – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Postal Service – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Italian Signs – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Cars from 1901-1940 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Models – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Models – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Models – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Models – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – American Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – American Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – English Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – English Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Models – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – German Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – German Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – German Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Swiss Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Tour – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – French Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Mitropa Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Southern Italian Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Southern Italian Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Southern Italian Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Southern Italian Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Southern Italian Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – French Lines – Lecce, Italy
The Carriages, Locomotives and other Railcars
There are life size exhibits of some of the carriages, freight cars, locomotives and other vehicles, some of which you can actually enter.
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Water Pump for Steam Engines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Follow The Arrows – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Tour – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Bagagliaio/Riscaldatore FS VDrz 809.251 Heated Carriage – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Conductor Station – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Conductor Station – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Hot Water Heater for the VDr 917 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Exterior of Old Carriages – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Toilets – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Exterior of Old Carriages – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Mail or Post and Cargo Room – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Second Class – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Southeast Line – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Carriage Connections – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Second Class – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Cargo and Freight – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Exterior of Carriage, Carrozza Passeggeri FSE CTcr 454 Milan – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Exterior of Carriage Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Exterior of Carriage, Carrozza Passeggeri FSE C 151 – Lecce, Italy – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Anonima Ferrovie Salentine (AFS) Carri Merci Aperti FSE L 4000 + P 6221 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Exterior of Bagagliaio/Postale FSE DU 950 e DU 951 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Vessel for Wine, the Carri Merci Chiuso e Cisterna FSE Ma 5000 + F 1402 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Diesel Engine – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Machine – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Steam Engine, Locomotiva a Vapore FSE N. 316 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Steam Engine, Locomotiva a Vapore FSE N. 316 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Spring, Machine and Baggage – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Steam Engine, Locomotiva a Vapore FS Gr.905.043 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Steam Engine, Locomotiva a Vapore FS Gr.835.244 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Steam Engine, Locomotiva a Vapore FS Gr.835.244 Boiler – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Electric Engine, Locomotore Diesel-Elettrico FSE BB 159 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Electric Engine, Locomotore Diesel-Elettrico FS E626.033 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Electric Engine, Locomotore Diesel-Elettrico FS E626.033 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Engine, Automotore FS 216.0042 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Engine, Locomotore Diesel-Ellettrico FSE BB 169 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Engine, Locomotori Ellettrici FS E.323.105 + E.324.105 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Engine, Automotore FS 207.023 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Freight Yard Engine – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Steam Engine, Locomotiva a Vapore FS Gr.835.244 Boiler and Controls – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Engine, Automotore FS 207.023 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Engine, Automotore FS 207.023 Controls – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Steam Engine, Locomotiva a Vapore FS Gr.835.244 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Locomotore Elettrico FS E 444.069 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Il “Treno dell’Acqua” FS Dm 98.891 + M 950150 + M 550842 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Il “Treno dell’Acqua” FS Dm 98.891 + M 950150 + M 550842 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Il “Treno dell’Acqua” FS Dm 98.891 + M 950150 + M 550842 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Il “Treno dell’Acqua” FS Dm 98.891 + M 950150 + M 550842 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Carrozze Passeggeri FSE ABz 758 + Bz 614 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Carrozze Passeggeri FSE ABz 758 + Bz 614 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Carrozze Passeggeri FSE ABz 758 + Bz 614 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Carrozze Cellulare FS Kz 48.622 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Carrozze Passeggeri FSE ABz 758 + Bz 614 – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Carrozze Cellulare FS Kz 48.622 – Lecce, Italy
Dioramas and other Models
In the later stages of the exhibits, there are numerous large train models, electrified train sets and other dioramas to enjoy. The scale of some of the train sets is impressive and one can immerse oneself in their activity for quite some time.
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Models – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – German Lines – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Models – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Diorama – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Diorama – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Diorama – Lecce, Italy
Railroad Communications, Equipment and Forgery
There is a fairly large display on railroad communications from the mid to later twentieth century. Multiple versions of telephony equipment, switch control rooms and even maintenance shops with an old forge.
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Models – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Devices Used In The Yard – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Devices Used In The Yard – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Devices Used In The Yard – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Devices Used In The Yard – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Devices Used In The Yard – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Devices Used In The Yard – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Devices Used In The Yard – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Signals, Switches and Signs – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Erick enjoying the displays – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Erick posing in his uniform – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Communication Equipement – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Communication Equipement – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Diorama – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Blacksmith tools – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Machine Lathe – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Drill Press – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Giant Machine Lathe For Resurfacing Wheels And Other Rail Equipment – Lecce, Italy
Museo Ferroviario della Puglia – Old Electric Devices, Radios and Communications – Lecce, Italy
The Museo Ferroviario della Puglia, or Railway Museum of Puglia, is located on Via G. Codacci Pisanelli 3 in Lecce. From the entrance of the castle, it is probably a twenty-five to thirty minute walk along Viale Francesco Lo Re under the railroad underpass and to the right; it is located behind the existing train station of Lecce.
The second largest city in Apulia is called Lecce and is located on the Salentine Peninsula of Italy. It is rich in Baroque architecture, most of which is in the form of Lecce limestone and is often referred to as the Florence of the South. It one of the oldest settlements in southern Italy, with activity dating back to neolithic times.
Getting There
From Brindisis, or most other larger towns and cities on the east coast of Mezzogiorno, the FrecciaArgento is perhaps to quickest way to arrive. From Brindisi it is a short twenty three minute ride, a bit longer on the regional trains.
Lecce Train Station – Lecce, Italy
The City
Lecce is a typical ancient city which was at one time circumscribed with a protective wall with three main gates. The streets in the old Città Vecchia, or old history city, are narrow and mostly paved with stones.
Typical city street – Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Castromediano – Lecce, Italy
Narrow carless streets – Lecce, Italy
Old Roman columned wall – Lecce, Italy
The government here must be very careful of the city center, since it appears to have mitigated much of the traffic you would normally find in other similar cities of this size, making pedestrian traffic all that more enjoyable.
Palazzo Lecciso – Lecce, Italy
Interesting balcony supports – Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Castromediano – Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Di Giustizia – Lecce, Italy
Ports, Gates, Columns And Castles
There are numerous ports, gates, columns and obelisks in Lecce. These are spread out all of the city and are well labeled on most maps. The Triumphal Arch, or Porta Napoli, is the largest and one of the three gates to enter the Città Vecchia.
Porta di Napoli – Front – Lecce, Italy
Porta di Napoli – Back – Lecce, Italy
Porta di Napoli – Back – Lecce, Italy
Porta di Napoli – Back – Lecce, Italy
There is also the Porta San Biagio and a smaller one called the Arco di Prato, or Arch of Prato, which is somewhat hidden away within the narrow city streets.
Porta San Biagio – Lecce, Italy
The Arch of Prato – Lecce, Italy
Arch of Prato – Lecce, Italy
The Obelisk of Terra d’Otranto can be seen close to the Porta Napoli and is rather tall. It was erected in 1822 in honor of one of the rulers of the Two Sicilies. On the other side of town one can find the War Memorial for soldiers lost in war.
Porta di Napoli – Obelisco di Terra d’Otranto – Lecce, Italy
War Memorial – Lecce, Italy
In the Piazza Saint Oronzo you will find the Colonna di Sant’Oronzo, or the Column of Saint Oronzo. It is a tall pedestal with Saint Oronzo on top. The column itself was assembled from pieces of the one that fell apart in Brindisi in the mid sixteenth century, its twin can be found near the port of that city.
Column of Saint Oronzo – Lecce, Italy
The Castello de Carlo V, or Castle of Charles V sits on the eastern edge of the historic city and below the Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens. It is a large structure and tours are offered, all of which are guided, so you cannot tour the grounds unaccompanied. A short walk from there you will the public park or gardens, which is always a good stop to rest your feet after a few hours of walking.
Castello Carlo V di Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Castello Carlo V di Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens – Lecce, Italy
Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens – Fountain – Lecce, Italy
Roman Ruins
Lecce has in its old historic city not one, but two Roman amphitheaters. Unfortunately for us, both were being restored while we visited and photography was very difficult in both cases.
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater, 2nd Century – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater, 2nd Century – Lecce, Italy
Where We Stayed
For the second time on this trip we have booked a Bed and Breakfast. I still cannot say I am fan, but there are times when alternatives to hotels may make a better fit. However, we only commit to such alternatives directly and after thorough research.
L’Orangerie d’Epoque
We stayed at a Bed and Breakfast called L’Orangerie d’Epoque on Viale Francesco Lo Re near the Porta San Biagio. A rather large building with a central portico that appears to have one owner.
L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Entryway and Portico – Lecce, Italy
Our room was on the ground floor with its own entrance to the portico. The entryway has a beautiful mosaic tiled floor, reminiscent of ancient Rome or Pompeii.
L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Entrance Mosaic and Door – Lecce, Italy
The room was spacious, with a fireplace and split up into almost four equal parts. There was a large dining area by the entrance that flowed into a living room with several couches.
This small restaurant has good food and wine at fairly reasonable prices. We actually went there late for lunch, around 14:40 and they still took our order and served us.
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
The service was very good and the menu had a decent choice of both local cuisine and other more general Italian items to chose.
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Front of the Building – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Entrance, Cassa and Wines – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Wines – Lecce, Italy
I ordered the Eggplant Polpette in Ragu Sauce with Ricotta Cheese, an Insalata Mista (mixed salad) and the Orecchiette with re-milled Semolina with Scottona Red Ragu and Patti ordered the Ciceri and Tria Pasta and shared my Polpette. All the dishes were very good. The wine was Negroamaro from the region and it was very good, served by the glass. The desserts you can see below and the espresso was also very good, not bitter at all.
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Eggplant Polpette in Ragu Sauce with Ricotta Cheese – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Insalata Mista – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Ciceri and Tria Pasta – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Orecchiette with re-milled Semolina with Scottona Red Ragu – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Salted Pistachio Semifreddo with Chocolate Crunchy, Martucci Spumone Hazelnut Chocolate – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Espresso and Molinari Sambuca – Lecce, Italy
Miro Wine And Lounge
We stopped here for a drink and decided on a quick bite to eat, since we were both getting hungry and it was only a little passed eleven. We were actually surprised they were serving lunch.
Miro Wine and Lounge – Patti outside waiting for soup – Lecce, Italy
Miro Wine and Lounge – Erick outside waiting for soup with a glass of red – Lecce, Italy
While we waited, I ordered a glass of Negroamaro from Puglia, a very nice wine that reminds me of Barbera. They had a nice bean and cereal soup on the menu that Patti and I decided to try and it was magnificent.
Miro Wine and Lounge – Bean and Cereal soup with Croutons – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo
The restaurant Tranquillo is a more modern restaurant with two locations in Lecce, we chose the one located at Piazza Sant’Oronzo. The service and food were very good.
Tranquillo – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Menu – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Inside – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Inside – Lecce, Italy
We dined late again at around 14:30, opting for a larger lunch and skipping dinner. We find this preferrable to eating again late in the evening and going to bed with a full stomach, something that we find does not lend itself to a good night sleep as we get older. I ordered the Apulian Bombette with Cheese on greens with a side order of Potato al Forno and Cicorie (Chickory), and Patti ordered the Cicorie on Pureed Fava Beans.
Tranquillo – Chicory side and Chicory on Pureed Fava Beans – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Potatoes al Forno, Ricetta Bombette with cheese and a glass of red wine – Lecce, Italy
Often referred to as La Città Bianca, or the White City, from certain vantage points, it does appear somewhat like the houses on Santorini island of the Greek Archipelago. It is however difficult getting a good photograph that represents it from a distance, unless you drive a car.
Panoramic view of the Adriatic – Ostuni, Italy
Getting There
A twenty minute train ride from Brindisi Centrale and a five minute bus drive from Ostuni Zona Sisri, is the small ancient city of Ostuni. The trains run at least every hour in both directions and perhaps even more often around rush hour times.
Follow the signs to the bus stop – Ostuni, Italy
Follow the signs to the bus stop – Ostuni, Italy
Fermata, bus stop – Green Times – Ostuni, Italy
Even more importantly, it should be noted that getting back, not all Fermata are active where the bus should stop. Apparently, during the off-season the only one that remains active is the one at via tenente Specchia, where we were left off at the start of our journey. So plan on returning there and not at the one of the other two bus stops sometimes indicated in the city by other information sources.
Sign indicating Fermata closed from 13th January – Ostuni, Italy
The White City
The White City, or the Città Bianca[1]which is actually the Città Vecchia or old city, is located on a mount or hill with a commanding view of the plain below. The newer part of the city stretches out towards the south and is rather residential and nondescript in nature.
Santuario Madonna della Grata – Ostuni, Italy
Adriatic Sea – Ostuni, Italy
While in the main piazza, or Piazza della Libertà, this is a good place to stop for a coffee or drink. Here you will find several things to see, including the Colonna di Sant’Oronzo and the Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi.
Colonna di Sant’Oronzo – Ostuni, Italy
Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi – Entrance – Ostuni, Italy
Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi – Nave – Ostuni, Italy
Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi – Ceiling – Ostuni, Italy
Comune Di Ostuni & Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi – Ostuni, Italy
Skyline – Ostuni, Italy
Ahead, the climb is not that bad, but the city streets and passageways are rather serpentine and have a myriad of steps that go up and down, so bring rested legs. We spent a good part of a day here, we walked and climbed all over the place and traveled just over seven miles.
Steps up to part of the city – Ostuni, Italy
City streets – Ostuni, Italy
Skyline – Ostuni, Italy
Religious motives – Ostuni, Italy
The Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta and Arco Scoppa are located in the same place in the Centro Storico di Ostuni at the top of the hill.
Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta
– Ostuni, Italy
Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta – Nave – Ostuni, Italy
Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta – Ceiling – Ostuni, Italy
Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta – Old Wooden Doors and Old Iron Hinges – Ostuni, Italy
Arco Scoppa – Ostuni, Italy
Arco Scoppa – Ostuni, Italy
While meandering through the streets of Ostuni, we noticed several interesting doorways that had unusual flourishes and ornate features.
Ornate doorways – Ostuni, Italy
Ornate doorways – Ostuni, Italy
Ornate doorways – Ostuni, Italy
Aside from that, there are mostly lazy narrow streets, stairways and white houses in the city. From time to time, you will come across places to eat, but during this time of year, most of them are closed. They most likely open later in the March timeframe, when the tourist activity picks up.
Residential area – Ostuni, Italy
Patti – Ostuni, Italy
Way to the north part of the Citta Vecchio – Ostuni, Italy
The Adriatic – Ostuni, Italy
Stairs, stairs, stairs – Ostuni, Italy
City streets – Ostuni, Italy
Restaurants
Al Cortiletto Vino e Birra Ostuni
The Al Cortiletto Vino e Birra Ostuni restaurant offers typical Italian food with some Pugliese items thrown in, so there is something for everyone. We had met some fellow travelers while on the bus from the Ostuni train station with whom we engaged in conversation during the ride. In order to finish what we had begun, they suggested we meet for lunch and this is the place they picked.
Roland and Amanda – Ostuni, Italy
Patti and I ordered and shared the Bruschetta. Then she ordered a Tuna Salad and I had the Cheese Gnocchi with ragu. Unfortunately, we took no photographs and you will have to build a mental image of what we ate.
When we left, Roland and Amanda were on their way back to Lecce, where we are headed tomorrow and we returned to Brindisi. We traded telephone numbers and promised to stay in touch for a lunch or dinner when there, since they will still be there during our visit later this week into next.
If it is raining out and there is not much else to do, then a trip to Brindisi could be the cure for your rainy day. Though not much to see, nor much to look at, Brindisi does offer a few points of interest. We mainly used it for a short respite during our eighteen day visit to Mezzogiorno.
Getting To Brindisi
From Bari we reserved seats on the FrecciaArgento[1]FrecciaArgento, or TrennItalia’s Silver Arrow service, as opposed to the FrecciaRosso, or Red Arrow service in other areas which only takes a hour. There are other regional offerings, however they usually take longer but are less expensive, so there are options.
Bari Centrale – Waiting for our FrecciaArgento – Bari, Italy
Brindisi Centrale – Brindisi, Italy
Brindisi does have a airport that is serviced by RyanAir. While here we saw several airplanes land and take off during the day and the airport was directly across the water on the other side of the city from our hotel.
Bindisi The City
Brindisi’s Citta Vecchia, or historical center, is a bit elongated but does reach to the bay where the port is located. The Corso Roma is the main avenue for shopping, though it cannot be compared to the one in Bari or other larger towns or cities we have visited along the coast.
Corso Roma – Brindisi, Italy
Corso Roma – Brindisi, Italy
City Market – Brindisi, Italy
Piazza Il Duomo And The Roman Column
The Piazza Il Duomo has the Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista and some other sites to see. The cathedral is rather plain inside, but somewhat impressive from the outside.
Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista – Brindisi, Italy
Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista – Modern Interior – Brindisi, Italy
The Colonne Romane, or Roman Column, was erected in the city to define one of the endpoints of the Appian Way, or the extent of Rome. Others have countered that they were merely erected as a visual aid for mariners to know where the actual port was located. There were two originally, of which only one still exists in all of its glory, the other crumbled in the mid sixteenth century. The crumbled remains of the one were donated to Lecce for their column.
Colonne Romane – Brindisi, Italy
Unesco site – Brindisi, Italy
Colonne Romane – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale
Our hotel was the Grande Albergo Internazionale located on the Viale Regina Margherita down by the water. We booked a suite which overlooked the water.
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Front – Brindisi, Italy
It is a somewhat dated hotel, but has enough amenities to be comfortable. However, the outside and inside looks like it is in need of some restoration. Our room was spacious and the bathroom modern which was a big benefit.
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Patti in our room – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Our room – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Restaurant for Breakfast – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Outside our window – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Outside our window – Brindisi, Italy
Lungomare di Brindisi
As the name implies, you are able to walk along the water for some length along the Lungomare di Brindisi. It starts near the parking area when you enter the port down to, but no further than the Approdo delle Indie. After that begins an Italian Naval Base and you are redirected up a set of stairs and away from the shore.
Viale Regina Margherita – Lungomare di Brindisi – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Italian Mariner monument from the Lungomare di Brindisi – Brindisi, Italy
Viale Regina Margherita – Lungomare di Brindisi – Brindisi, Italy
Brindisi Shuttle Service
From the Lungomare, or Viale Regina Margherita, about where it intersects with Piazza Vittorio Emanuele III is one location you can pick up the shuttle. It has a four stop route along the inlet and completes the circuit about once every twenty minutes. One use, simple route charge was 1.20€ per person, which only excepts contactless credit card or NFC contactless payments from your phone, NO CASH.
Brindisi Shuttle Service – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Dock on the Airport Side – Brindisi, Italy
Brindisi Shuttle Service – Brindisi, Italy
Saint John At The Sepulchre
The St John At The Sepulchre is an ancient eleventh century Church of the Holy Sepulcher with circular construction built over a pre-existing church. It was built to resemble the ancient Anastasis Rotunda of the Holy Selpuchre in Jerusalem with the intention of providing a memory of that structure.
St John At The Sepulchre – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Brindisi, Italy
The monument is intended to show the close relationship between Brindisi and the Holy Land during the time of the crusades. Built by the Knight Order of the Canons Regular sometime before 1128, it was conceived to give those who could not pilgrimage to the Holy Land a feeling for that destination, and for those who have, a reminder of it.
St John At The Sepulchre – Main Entrance – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Media Presentation – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Media Presentation Showing Route To Isreal – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Other Items – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Old Nails, Hinges – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Side Entrance Lintel – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Patio – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Garden In Back – Brindisi, Italy
The hole in the floor shows Roman mosaics belonging to a large Roman house dating back to the first and second century CE.
St John At The Sepulchre – Columns – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Roman Ruins – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Roof Timber Works – Brindisi, Italy
There are multiple frescoes on the walls depicting several different important themes of Christianity. All of which have been damaged by previous ownership, no doubt to repurpose the building for other uses.
St John At The Sepulchre – Deposition From The Cross, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Deesis, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Saint Inside Arcat, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Flagellation, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – The Virgin And The Child, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Pentecost, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Saint George And The Dragon, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Side Entrance Lintel – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Patio – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Garden In Back – Brindisi, Italy
Porta Napoli
The Porta Napoli, also known as the Porta Mesagne, is the oldest entrance to the ancient city. It was constructed during Roman times by Marc Anthony to isolate the city from land side invasions. The Ruga Magistra or main street originated from this gate, which coincides today with via Carmine and via Filomeno Consiglio today.
Porta Napoli – Brindisi, Italy
Porta Napoli – Brindisi, Italy
Castello Svevo
Unlike the map that one of the major search providers tries to imply you can walk the entire way around bay to the Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia; this cannot be done. We found out the difficult way by walking to Castello Svevo or the Swabian Castle of Brindisi, only to find out that you cannot enter without a pass, it is an active Naval Base. Temporary passes can be obtained online, but there is a forty-eight hour waiting period (don’t ask – I have no idea why, however it is required before you may return and enter). Since we are not staying here that long we decided to forgo that pleasure.
So, denied entry, we changed our plans and headed for the Fontana Tancredi, thinking that it might be a sight to see, and afterwards we could just walk toward the bay and find the Lungomare; no such luck on both accounts. Most of the area in and around the castle is restricted and cannot be entered, the fountain is fenced off, overgrown and only trickles water, so total failure on both accounts.
Via Provincial San Vito – Brindisi, Italy
Aldo Moro Monument – Brindisi, Italy
Southern Italian Naval Base – Brindisi, Italy
In fact, they have very large naval ships anchored here as well temporary housing for illegal immigrants. We attempted to go as far as the tennis club, or Circolo Tennis Club, but then turned around. Had we known beforehand, we could have continued further and picked up the bay shuttle about a half kilometer further.
Castello Svevo – Map and where not to go – Brindisi, Italy
While walking back, we discovered the Santuario Santa Maria degli Angeli church. A nondescript church from the outside offers a better view from the inside. If you are in the area of Via Ferrante Fornari and see the church, it is worth to stick your head in and take a look.
Santuario Santa Maria degli Angeli – Brindisi, Italy
Santuario Santa Maria degli Angeli – Nave and Ceiling – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia
The large monument across the bay is the Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia, a naval monument erected for the fallen navy personal of Italy. It has two shore guns on either side and may be climbed for a fee, there is a lookout on the top that has a commanding view of the city.
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Restaurants
Most of the restaurants that we visited were down by the water and along the Lungomare.
Ristorante Windsurf
We chose this restaurant out of convenience, mostly because of the rain and threat of thunderstorms, and glad we did because while we were eating it poured. It was also conveniently located thirty meters from our hotel entrance.
Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – Lobster tank – Brindisi, Italy
The food is typical pizzeria food with a concentration on sea food for everything else. I chose a pizza and Patti stuck with a panini that they offered on the menu. The Negroamaro from Puglia was actually very nice, dry but not overly tannic.
Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – A Negroamaro from Puglia – Brindisi, Italy
Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi
A similar cafe and pizzeria as WindSurf is Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi, located just below the stairs to the Roman Column. We stopped here for a simple lunch consisting of salads, bread and pizza points. The wine was house wine, but was very good.
Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi – Patti’s Green Salad With Fruit And Nuts – Brindisi, Italy
We also stopped later in the evening for dinner, since they were one of the few restaurants around showing pasta with ragu sauce on their menus. Patti ordered the Penne all’Arrabbiata and I ordered the Tagliatelle al Ragú.
Final Thoughts
Although we both thought that Brindisi is rather clean and has some things to offer, we weren’t so sure that we visit, if we didn’t have so much time on our hands being retired. Therefore, for the casual visitor to Italy, we would not commend a visit, Bari and Trani have more to offer.
On a lark, Patti decided to go to Trani, Italy for the day. The morning was clear, blue and fantastic, so we could not expect better weather.
Trani Centrale – Trani, Italy
VIa Cavour – Trani, Italy
Trani is a seaside town on the Adriatic Sea in the region of Apulia. It has great wine, olive oil and food. It has an active fishing community which supports the local economy.
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta
– Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Lighthouses – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Basilica from the castle – Trani, Italy
The City
The city itself is well laid out, even for an ancient town. The historic center though windy and curvy is very clean and well labeled for tourist. After about an hour here we found it a most unexpected delight and were glad we came.
Chiesa Beata Maria Vergine del Monte Carmelo (o del Carmine) – Trani, Italy
Piazza Sacra Regia Udienza – Port of Trani – Trani, Italy
Narrow streets – Trani, Italy
One of the many portals – Trani, Italy
One of the many portals – Trani, Italy
Door with no stairs – Trani, Italy
Orologie Tower – Trani, Italy
Long portal – Trani, Italy
Auditorium San Luigi – Trani, Italy
Church of Saint Claire – Trani, Italy
The Golden or Ancient door – Trani, Italy
Another church – Trani, Italy
The Piazze Quercia has a least one cafe or bar which has outside seating. It is a great place in the spring to stop before lunch and get a drink. We find it relaxing just to watch the locals and the boats going in and out of the harbor, and of course, enjoying the sunshine and the fifty degree weather.
There is a beautiful walkway or sidewalk that enables you to walk around the entire port. Unlike Bari, where you can do this if you can tolerate the smell, the port is clean and well maintained.
Live shrimp – Port of Trani – Trani, Italy
Fishing boats – Port of Trani – Trani, Italy
Port of Trani – Trani, Italy
Port of Trani – Trani, Italy
The fishing community appears to be active daily and some of the ships sell their catch right on the pier. You can find anything from live shrimp and fish to octopus. So, if you can cook in, bring your grocery bag and your wallet.
Parco Giochi Villa Comunale
The Parco Giochi Villa Comunale is located to the right of the Port of Trani as you walk as far as you can in the city. It has a portal that leads up to a great observation place, so that you get a commanding view of the boats and the jetties containing the lighthouses, which are all a different color.
Porto or entrance – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta
– Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Bar Boschetto – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Fishing boat going out to sea – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Park Seal – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
There are some interesting monuments and an old anchor. Walking further, you will happen upon a aviary at the end of the park where they house parakeets.
We actually found it to be an amazing little park with little things to see, along with the aviary with parakeets they also have real parrots, which you will eventually notice are in the trees all around you. When we were here, they were all doing their crazy mating calls and dances on the ground, what a cacophony!
Parrots – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Parrots – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta
In the Piazza Duomo is the Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta, also known as Trani Cathedral. This cathedral is dedicated to Saint Nichola the Pilgrim. It is a very large structure, but it only opens later in the day around 15:30.
Piazza Duomo Front – Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Trani, Italy
Piazza Duomo Front – Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Trani, Italy
There are some restrictions when you enter, so please read the signs, though we saw no enforcement; having said that, it was winter and the slow season, so it may be impractical for them to oversee traffic during that time.
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Frescoes – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Frescoes in the Crypt – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Orthodox bust in the Crypt – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Altar in the Crypt – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Entrance – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Nave – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani
The Castello Svevo di Trani in just a small walk from the Piazza Duomo and Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta. There is actually not much to see, but it does have a few small things of interest. At one time it was a prison and had other incarnations as you go back in time to protect the town. It is also noted to have a large clock on its edifice.
Castello Svevo di Trani – Entrance – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Patti and the Basilica from the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Diorama of the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Painting as you enter – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Sala Federico II room – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Ruins leading to the prison area – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Architecture of the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Old side portal in the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Strange window – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Old prison area of the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Lookout to the sea – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Old prison area of the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Large outside area – Trani, Italy
Restaurants
Since we were only doing a day trip, we were only able to visit one restaurant and that was for lunch.
Giù a Sud, Green Bistro
The Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot is located at Piazza Cesare Battisti in Trani. After viewing the menu outside we decided we would give it a try and we are glad we did.
Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Inside – Trani, Italy
Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Bar and Inside – Trani, Italy
Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Primitivo and bread – Trani, Italy
Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Bean and Lentil soup with croutons – Trani, Italy
Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Orecchiette and Broccoli Rape – Trani, Italy
The food and restaurant is sourced locally from green producers and prepared using artisanal recipes. They had a bean and lentil soup with croutons which was just delicious. I am pretty sure it is probably something that comes off the menu in the summer, but you may ask, in Italy you never know, especially in Mezzogiorno. We thoroughly enjoyed it.
