Grüezi! After our travels in the interior of Switzerland, we spent a few days in Zürich prior to our return. The decision was one out of convenience, since Zürich airport was the closest offering international travel back to the states.
Getting There
Since we were starting from Wengen, we had to take the the Wengneralpenbahn to Lauterbrunnen and then the Berner Oberlandbahn from there to Interlaken Ost. From Interlaken Ost to Bern we still had free fare with our Oberlandbahn passes, so we only had to book first class tickets from there to Zürich. Then we purchased seat reservations for the entire trip using the Swiss Half Fare card.
Wengneralpenbahn – New Snow in Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen, Switzerland
Wengneralpenbahn – New Snow in Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen, Switzerland
A word about the Swiss Half Fare card and Berner Oberlandbahn pass. If you are only passing through the region it probably does not pay to get these, the initial cost is rather high. However, if you are staying in the region for an extended period of time and plan on traveling within it, then it definitely pays for itself.
Train Trip to Zürich – Thunersee, Switzerland
Train Trip to Zürich – Thunersee, Switzerland
Zürich
A modern city by any standard, it is situated on the eponymous lake and also enjoys the dissection of the Limmat and Sihl rivers, as well as a canal and several minor streams.
Schanzengraben – Zürich, Switzerland
Market – Zürich, Switzerland
Bahnhofstrasse – Zürich, Switzerland
The Altstadt, or old city, is partially on a small island, being bounded by the lake, the Limmat river and the Schanzengraben canal, the remaining part lieing to the east of the Limmat, which at one time had also been bounded by the Sielengraben and Hirschengraben moats (which have both been filled in).
The Münsterhof, Münsterbrücke and the Limmatquai are probably the must see places for this city. There are plenty of restaurants in and around this area, as well as shops and other places of business.
We both felt that Zürich as a destination in itself does not offer much, but it is definitely worth of few days in your schedule if you are just passing through the area.
Limmat River – Zürich, Switzerland
Limmat River – Zürich, Switzerland
Limmat River – Zürich, Switzerland
Limmat River – Zürich, Switzerland
Zürichersee – Zürich, Switzerland
Limmat River – Zürich, Switzerland
Limmat River At Night – Zürich, Switzerland
Grüezi – Zürich, Switzerland
Hotels
Hotel Glärnischhof
The Hotel Glärnischhof is situated close the Schanzengraben canal and the Zürichersee, or Lake Zurich. It provides a good location to the old city, as well as the lake for relaxing strolls, boat rides and other forms of entertainment. We did not find many restaurants in the area, so we did have to walk into the old city center each night for dinner.
Hotel Glärnischhof – Main Entrance – Zürich, Switzerland
Hotel Glärnischhof – Side – Zürich, Switzerland
Hotel Glärnischhof – Lobby – Zürich, Switzerland
Restaurants
Zeughauskeller
The Zeughauskeller Restaurant has exactly that, a bunch of military junk and oddities in a building, hanging from the walls or ceiling. It provides interesting things to look at while you are eating your sausages and drinking your beer.
Zeughauskeller Restaurant, Bahnhofstrass, In Gasse – Main Entrance – Zürich, Switzerland
Zeughauskeller Restaurant, Bahnhofstrass, In Gasse – Main Entrance – Zürich, Switzerland
As for sausage, they make it locally and sell some of it by the meter, apparently to go along with that liter of beer (ein Maß) you are going to order. We were even witness to a bit of excitement when the kitchen staff had a small mishap near our table and they gave me a coupon for 20 Swiss Francs for the disturbance. I graciously accepted it using my poor German.
Zeughauskeller Restaurant – Sausage By The Meter – Zürich, Switzerland
Zeughauskeller Restaurant – Jason – Ein Maß Bier Bitte – Zürich, Switzerland
Along the northern banks of the Thunersee, or Lake Thun, about thirty minutes from Interlaken you will find the caves of Saint Beatus. Though not as grand as some of the other caves we have seen, they are still worth visiting and at 13.50 Swiss Francs for entry per person, they are fairly reasonable to afford.
Tickets For Two – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Wengneralpenbahn – Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen, Switzerland
Wengneralpenbahn – Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen, Switzerland
Wengneralpenbahn – Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen, Switzerland
Wengneralpenbahn – Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen, Switzerland
Once we arrived in Interlaken Ost, there was a short walk to the other side of town, Interlaken West train station, to wait for Bus 21 which took us directly to the caves of Saint Beatus and later back. Again, we purchased the Oberlander Pass, so there were no charges for this ride which is normally around 9 Swiss Francs for a round trip.
Bus Ride to Saint Beatus Höhlen – Thunersee – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Bus Ride to Saint Beatus Höhlen – Thunersee – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Bus Ride to Saint Beatus Höhlen – Thunersee – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Bus Ride to Saint Beatus Höhlen – Thunersee – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Bus Ride to Saint Beatus Höhlen – Thunersee – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Interlaken
Since our bus was leaving from the other side of town, we had plenty of time to wander through the town and bit and enjoy some of its charm. The river Aare runs between Lake Thun and Lake Brienz here and the parks along it are understandably decorated to make it the perfect backdrop for photographs.
Patti – Aare River – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Höhematte Park – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Höhematte Park – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Saint Beatus Höhlen
When you arrive at Saint Beatus Höhlen, or caves, you are welcomed with a large waterfall. This swift moving water which comes from the upper watershed area and quickly moves through the rocks towards it destination in Lake Thun, is responsible for carving out the long necklace of caves that you are able to hike.
Bus Stop – Main Entrance – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Main Entrance – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
It is damp, wet and a bit chilly in the caves so bring something a little warm. The overall duration of the walk through the caves is about forty minutes or so, depending on how much time you stop to take photographs.
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
When you finally exit the caves there is a nice refreshment stand where you may purchase food and drinks, at the customary inflated prices.
Patti and Ericka – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Restaurants
Upon our return to Wengen we had dinner reservations at the Lecker Asia Restaurant, our break from the local cuisine.
Lecker Asia Restaurant
Lecker in German means tasty and the food here is definitely tasty. A good break from the fusion of French and German cuisines that we have been eating all week. It is a small restaurant with limited seating, so reservations is a must, since it does get full quickly during dinner time.
Lecker Asia Restaurant – Inside – Wengen, Switzerland
Lecker Asia Restaurant – Inside – Wengen, Switzerland
All the food was very good and spiced to your taste, without any unnecessary salt or MSG to worry about. Even though we were seven people with one baby and one toddler, they were still able to accommodate us.
Lecker Asia Restaurant – Chinese Food – Wengen, Switzerland
Lecker Asia Restaurant – Chinese Food – Wengen, Switzerland
The Jungfraujoch, or maiden’s saddle, has been reachable by train since the early twentieth century. The observatory commands a special view of the Aletsch Glacier, the Jungfrau, Mönch and the surrounding area; on a beautiful day it is quite something to see. Unfortunately, this time we had to contend with bad weather and strong winds. Our last visit was in 2020.
Eiger North Wall – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Getting There
We left Wengen using the Wengernalpbahn train to Kleine Scheidegg. With our Bernese Oberlander Pass, we purchased tickets for half price.
Going To Kleine Scheidegg – Wengernalpbahn – Wengen, Switzerland
Going To Kleine Scheidegg, Leaving Wengen – Wengernalpbahn – Wengen, Switzerland
Going To Kleine Scheidegg, Leaving Wengen – Wengernalpbahn – Wengen, Switzerland
Oberland Pass Map
Below are the transportation routes that can be used free of charge (solid lines) and those routes at half price (dotted) with the pass.
Bernese Oberland Pass – Map Of Routes – Wengen, Switzerland
Kleine Scheidegg
Known as the small pass between the farmers in Grindelwald and its valley and the rest of Switzerland, the Kleine Scheidegg became more important than it’s sister route the Grosse Scheidegg when tourism and the railroad to the mountains became an attraction.
Welcome Map – Jungfrau Region – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Eiger Glacier – Jungfraujoch, Switzerland
Jungfrau, Blüemlisalp and Gspaltenhorn – Lauterbrunnen Valley – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Blüemlisalp and Gspaltenhorn in Clouds – Lauterbrunnen Valley – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Jungfrau in Clouds – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
It is a terminal train station, since all trains from here use different gauge track and are very specialized, thus changing trains to reach your destination is necessary.
Station Kleine Scheidegg – Wengernalpbahn – Wengen, Switzerland
Leaving Kleine Scheidegg – Jungfraubahn – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Leaving Kleine Scheidegg – Jungfraubahn – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Leaving Kleine Scheidegg – Jungfraubahn – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
The view from here of the Eiger is worth noting. When the weather is good it provides an excellent view of the north face that rivals that obtained from Grindelwald.
Hotel Bellevue – North Wall and West Face, Eiger – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
North Wall and West Face, Eiger – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Hotel Bellevue – North Wall and West Face, Eiger – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Jungfraujoch
The so called Top Of Europe, or Jungfraujoch, is reached by the Jungfraubahn, which is the highest operating European train at over ten thousand feet. When you arrive the first thing you may notice is the thin air and difficulty breathing.
Since the weather had been on the inclement side, what better place to visit than Lauterbrunnen, from where at least eight waterfalls of note may be seen.
Staubbach Falls – Main Street – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Getting There
From Wengen we took the Wengernalp Railway using our Oberlander Pass, since it covers travel in this region and Lauterbrunnen is the end station on this line.
Lauterbrunnen
Lauterbrunnen is again a typical alpine resort town with one main street dotted with shops and little else. It is the town you park you vehicle if you are staying in Wengen (since no vehicles are allowed).
Main Street – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
The main street leads through the town from the train station and continues all the way to the end of the valley, however only after many name changes along the way.
Mettelnalp – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Schiltwaldbachfall – Village Reformed Church – – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Staubbach Falls – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Mettlenalp – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Staubbach Falls – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Almenhubel – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Once outside town the road narrows a bit, but offers a good path to have a long lazy hike down the valley. Cars are few, even though there are several camping sites along the way and parking lots for vehicles.
Staubbach Falls – Main Street – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Buchenbachfall – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Almenhubel – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Staubbach Falls – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
The Weisse Lütschine river flows the length of the valley as it gathers up many small tributaries that add to its volume along the way. During our walk you could hear its constant roar in the background.
Mettlenalp – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Buchenbachfall – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Restaurants
Once we returned to Wengen, we had reservations and ate dinner at the following restaurant.
Berghaus Restaurant
This resort and hotel restaurant is small and offers traditional German and Swiss dishes. The author can recommend the Apple Strudel, it was very tasty, not ruined by sugar like in the States.
Berghaus Restaurant – Main Entrance – Wengen, Switzerland
Berghaus Restaurant – Herb Soup – Wengen, Switzerland
Berghaus Restaurant – Schnitzel With Fries – Wengen, Switzerland
After Lake Leman we planned a return to the Bernese Alps and chose Wengen at the behest of other family members. We had previously been to Grindelwald and had spent some time there, so we knew the area well, although we had never visited the Lauterbrunnen Valley. In preparation for this trip, we purchased the following tickets and discount cards to help in managing expenses.
The Swiss Half Fare Card – provides half fare prices on all travel, including cable cars and other forms of transportation
The Oberländer Pass – provides access to all modes of transportation within the Oberland, can be purchased using the Half Fare card above.
The GoldenPass Express – since it is a special train, it is included in the Oberlander Pass, but if you want reserved seating, use the Half Fare card the price for First Class, it is still quite reasonable and perhaps the way to go for medium to large groups (we were a party of six).
Getting There
From Montreux, Switzerland we enjoyed the GoldenPass Express train to Interlaken Ost, the train station that lies between the lakes Thunersee and Brienzersee, just outside the Lauterbrunnen Valley.
Montreux Train Station – Montreux, Switzerland
Goldenpass Express – Montreux Train Station – Montreux, Switzerland
Goldenpass Express – Montreux Train Station – Montreux, Switzerland
It winds through the Cantons of Vaud and Bern, through the Simmental valley where there are pastoral views to enjoy.
Lake Leman – GoldenPass Train – Montreux, Switzerland
Lake Leman – GoldenPass Train – Montreux, Switzerland
Lake Thun – GoldenPass Train – Interlaken, Switzerland
Lake Thun – GoldenPass Train – Interlaken, Switzerland
Lake Thun – GoldenPass Train – Interlaken, Switzerland
Wengen The Town
Wengen is a classic Swiss ski town, having a single avenue with shops and stores catering to souvenir hunters, hotels spread throughout the surrounding area with accompanied restaurants, as well as standalone restaurants offering specialities and train and cable car stations. One thing it doesn’t have are private cars, they are not allowed here and one must park in Lauterbrunnen and take the train to visit.
Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen Town – Wengen, Switzerland
Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen Town – Wengen, Switzerland
Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen Town – Wengen, Switzerland
Beautiful Rainy Evening – Wengen, Switzerland
Beautiful Rainy Evening – Wengen, Switzerland
Hotel Jungfraublick
Our hotel during our stay was the Jungfraublick hotel, a three star hotel with restaurant. It supplied a complimentary continental breakfast in the morning, but its linen service proved to be somewhat of a problem and each day we had to ask for things we should have been supplied.
Aside from that, we didn’t see much of the Jungfrau, the third tallest mountain in the Bernese Alps, due to weather and the constant threat of rain or snow.
Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen Train – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen Town – Wengen, Switzerland
Restaurants
Even though it was slightly off-season, we made reservations for all the restaurants we visited and it is probably advised, we found most of them fairly busy during regular dinner hours.
Da Sine Ristorante
On our first day in Wengen, we ate here for lunch. They have excellent Italian food at somewhat reasonable prices for Switzerland.
Da Sina Ristorante – Main Entrance – Wengen, Switzerland
Da Sina Ristorante – Main Entrance – Wengen, Switzerland
Caprice Ristorante
The Caprice restaurant also offers Italian food and is very good. It can be found at the Maya Caprice Boutique Hotel and there prices are also in line with what other restaurants are charging in the area.
On the far northeast corner of Lake Leman (a.k.a. Lake Geneva) sits the small vacation town of Clarens, a stone’s throw away from Montreux, Switzerland. Though there really isn’t much to speak of the town itself, aside from some shopping, it has a beautiful waterfront and expansive walking path along the lake called the Quai Perdonnet.
Getting There And Around
From Frankfurt, Germany we took Swiss Airways to Geneva, Switzerland, about an hour and a half flight. At the Geneva airport it is then easy to use the local train system to travel from Geneva to Clarens, with the only exception of having to switch trains once in Renens.
Frankfurt Airport – Frankfurt, Germany
Geneva Airport – Geneva, Switzerland
Travel Cards And Other Arrangements
Depending on your situation it may be prudent to look into some of the many travel cards and discount programs that Swiss Rail system has to offer. Since we were traveling as a rather large family group and were going to use the public transit system often, we decided to at least puchase the Swiss Half-Fare Card. Though initially somewhat expensive, it cuts your fares in half for all types of transportation. Also be aware that every ticket purchased with it, you must also present this card for fare validation, a bit annoying, but it’s Switzerland.
Hotel La Villa
We stayed at the Hotel La Villa, which also has a restaurant by the same name. This hotel is right on the lake and offers scenic views, especially when enjoying a drink or something to eat on the terrace or veranda.
La Villa Hotel – Main Entrance – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel – Our Hotel – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel – Back – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel – Lake Leman – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel – Lake Leman – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel – Lake Leman – Clarens, Switzerland
Restaurants
During our stay we ate at the following restaurants.
Lake Leman At Night – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa
The restaurant is part of the hotel and is very convenient for those staying at the hotel, since all other options are some walk from the hotel. It has a very good menu and a continental breakfast, for those staying at the hotel. Though they offer boiled eggs as a hot entree for breakfast, if you are looking for something more substantial, you may have to look in town.
La Villa Restaurant – Breakfast – Clarens, Switzerland
For dinner the restaurant offers are very nice menu, complete with wine pairings and other amenities.
La Villa Hotel and Restaurant – Side At Night – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Hotel and Restaurant – Front At Night – Clarens, Montreaux, Switzerland
La Villa Restaurant – Lasagna – Clarens, Switzerland
La Villa Restaurant – Pasta Bolognese – Clarens, Switzerland
On Sunday, the first of June, we traveled to Reykjavik, Iceland for a stop-over of a couple of days as we started our journey back to the United States. We arrived only to experience a truly deep extra-tropical cyclone that had set itself up off the coast of Iceland and gave us a memorably windy start to our trip back and the end of our weekend.
Getting There
From Turin we took the FrecciaRossa to Milan Central Station and then up to Malpensa Airport by regional train. The two trips combined were a bit over two hours and more or less uneventful, though one could see tourist travel has definitely picked up in recent weeks, so the trains were pretty full.
Icelandair – Airport – Keflavik, Iceland
Airport Terminal – Keflavik, Iceland
Milan to Keflavik – Flying Over – Iceland
Milan to Keflavik – Flying Over – Iceland
Milan to Keflavik – Coast Near Airport – Iceland
Having only a few days to experience what we could of this volcanic island, we decided to stay in Reykjavik. A good forty-five minute drive from Keflavik Airport to Reykjavik, you only have two options, by bus or by automobile (honestly I am not sure if there is an ocean option). It does not matter whether you arrange or book a transfer service through something like GetYourGuide, or take a taxi directly from the airport, both costs are pretty much the same. The bus however is a cheaper option at around $30 per passenger, but does leave you generally on the southern outskirts of town, so you will either have to walk from there or hire a taxi to get to your hotel.
Get Your Guide Transfer – Keflavik to Reykjavik- Iceland
Get Your Guide Transfer – Keflavik to Reykjavik- Iceland
Get Your Guide Transfer – Keflavik to Reyjkavik – Iceland
Get Your Guide Transfer – Keflavik to Reykjavik- Iceland
Reykjavik – The City
The city reminded me of a long lost outpost that has been built up over the decades. Even the airports are pieced together from left over vestiges of American activities during World War II. The house are generally clad in corrugated galvanized sheets typically used for roofing material. Many are painted in bright colors to enhance their roadside appeal.
Laugavegur – Main Pedestrian and Shopping Street – Reykjavik, Iceland
Laugavegur – Main Pedestrian and Shopping Street – Reykjavik, Iceland
Side Street to Saebraut – Reykjavik, Iceland
Safnahúsið – House of Collections – Reykjavik, Iceland
Typical Street – Reykjavik, Iceland
Mixture of Architecture – Reykjavik, Iceland
Houses with Corrugate Metal Walls – Reykjavik, Iceland
Colorful Houses – Reykjavik, Iceland
Our Hotel
We stayed at the Sand Hotel in town, a Keahotel, of which there are a few in Reykjavik. We found it comfortable and central for our needs. A continental breakfast was included each morning, which we found to be actually a bit more than a mere continental breakfast and more than adequate for our needs. However, if you do not have a hotel with included breakfast, don’t worry, there are plenty of cafes, pastry and waffel shops around to grab a bite to eat in the morning.
Sand Hotel by Keahotels – Main Entrance – Reykjavik, Iceland
Saebraut And The Sun Voyager
Even though the weather did not cooperate much, we learned it rarely does in Iceland, a nice stroll along the Saebraut is a must. There is both a walkway and cycling lane that runs the length of the bay in Reykjavik. Here you will find the Sun Voyager, a stainless-steel sculpture by Jón Gunnar Árnason, that mimics a old Viking sailing boat.
Saebraut – Patti – Reykjavik, Iceland
Saebraut – Erick – Reykjavik, Iceland
Saebraut – Reykjavik, Iceland
Saebraut – Reykjavik, Iceland
Saebraut – The Sun Voyager – Reykjavik, Iceland
Skolavorduholt
A short walk up Rainbow Street and the highest hill in Reykjavik is the Skolavorduholt, the place where you will find the Hallgrimskirkja Lutheran Church and the monument to Lief Eriksson.
Rainbow Street – Runic Shop and the Brekkuholt House – Reykjavik, Iceland
Rainbow Street – Reykjavik, Iceland
Rainbow Street – Reykjavik, Iceland
Hallgrimskirkja Church
The church is impressive and easily the largest church on the island. It has an impressive apse and organ and an almost clean, if not antiseptic appearance inside. The pews are built so that can be easily switched, so you can either face the altar for services, or the organ for performances.
Hallgrimkirkja – Main Entrance – Reykjavik, Iceland
Hallgrimkirkja – Apse and Altar – Reykjavik, Iceland
Hallgrimkirkja – Grand Organ – Reykjavik, Iceland
Lief Eriksson
The monument of Lief Eriksson which stands directly outside in front of the entrance, gives historical credit to this noble adventurer and discoverer of the North America. The monument was gifted to the island in 1930 by the United States of America.
The Austurvöllur area is where many of the municiple buildings are located, as well as the Tjörnin, or “The Pond”. This body of water is a favorite for the school children during lunch and you can often find them feeding the ducks which collect along the shore for an easy meal.
Prime Minister’s Office – Reykjavik, Iceland
Prime Minister’s Office – Reykjavik, Iceland
Tjarnarskóli ehf – Elementary School – Reykjavik, Iceland
Tjörnin – The Pond – Reykjavik, Iceland
Alþingishúsið – State Parliament Building – Reykjavik, Iceland
Apotek Hotel by Keahotels – Reykjavik, Iceland
Jon Sigurdsson Monument – Reykjavik, Iceland
Looking Seaward – Reykjavik, Iceland
Harbor – Reykjavik, Iceland
Harbor – Reykjavik, Iceland
The Old Harbor Boat Ramp – Reykjavik, Iceland
The Old Harbor Boat Ramp – Reykjavik, Iceland
The Unknown Bureaucrat – Reykjavik, Iceland
Restaurants
The Scandinavian Bistro
Our first evening we ate at the Scandinavian Bistro and thoroughly enjoyed it. Though it does not have a lot of seating inside, it is adequate and does not feel overly crowded. The food was a bit overpriced for what you got, but that’s true of most places in Reykjavik since they import a majority of their foodstuffs.
Scandinavian Bistro – My $38 Hamburger with Fries – Reykjavik, Iceland
Rossopomodoro
A continental chain and restaurant serving Italian cuisine can be found on the Laugevegur. A restaurant that is in many European cities and provides basic italian cuisine and pizza at fair prices. We ate here one evening due to its proximity to our hotel and because it was Italian food.
On a whim, since it was such a nice day out (clear sky, mid-70s), we decided to go to Sassi-Superga for a day trip. The last time we visited Sassi-Superga was in 2019, after we arrived in Turin from the States.
Getting There
From the center of town and a short walk to Piazza Vittorio Veneto we took the GTT #15 tram going toward Sassi. After waiting about 15 minutes, it arrived and we enjoyed a twenty minute ride up to around the Briaza stop on Corso Belgio. Here we ended up behind another tram that was having issues and subsequently was numbered #00, to indicate that it was no longer in use. Because of this, we had to get off the tram at the next stop and were told to take the GTT #68 bus that pulled up behind our tram.
We happily got on and tried to ignore the issue, until at the next stop the bus driver indicated that we had to get off his bus and get on another #68 bus that had pulled up behind us. Flaborghasted and flumexed we did complied, but not after we clearly showed our displeasure, however being Italian, he was totally nonplussed by the situation. Luckily, after another short 10 minute ride we arrived at our destination, still in time to catch the Cog or Inclined Train up to Superga hill.
Sassi-Superga
After your bus, or tram ride if you are so lucky, there is a short five minute walk to the train station. It is located on a rather confusing intersection on Corso Casale between SS10 and SC di Superga, for which there are about seven or eight crosswalks!
Basilica of Superga – Patti going back to Train Station – Turin, Italy
Stazione Sassi
If you use the GTT phone application for tickets, you would get the mistaken impression that your €1.90 commuter ticket, that was used on the tram and bus, should still apply (within the 90 minute time limit) to take the Inclined Railway up Superga Hill, it does not. Ticket vending machines are inside the railway and cafe building on-site, they may also be purchased from the conductor, but there may be an additional charge. The charge from the vending machine is €3 per person one way, so for two persons round-trip, that came to €12 total for us.
Sassi-Superga Inclined Railway – Tickets For Two – Turin, Italy
The train departs promptly and after about twenty to twenty-five minutes, you will arrive at Superga Station, just below the Basilica of Superga. The station has a cafe, so if you are in need of refreshment, now would be the time.
View of Turin – Sassi-Superga Station – Turin, Italy
View of Turin – Sassi-Superga Station – Turin, Italy
View of Turin – Basilica of Superga – Turin, Italy
Basilica of Superga
The basilica is still undergoing renovations after all these years and has scaffolding in and around the outside of the building. Most of this appears to be in place to protect visitors from falling debris. The exterior is starting to really look in need of major work, but they do appear to have the upper hand on the issue inside.
Basilica of Superga – Turin, Italy
Unfortunately, the little restaurant that used to be housed on the left hand side of the church no longer exists, there is only an entrance to the Tomb of the Savoy family. So our plans to eat there vanished as soon as we figured out that it had closed, most likely due to the pandemic.
Basilica of Superga – Dome and Altar – Turin, Italy
Basilica of Superga – Dome and Altar – Turin, Italy
Restaurants
However, all is not lost and a short walk down the hill toward on Sentiero 26 path near the Monument of Umberto I, is a nice little Trattoria that we visited for lunch.
Basilica of Superga – Monument of Umberto I – Turin, Italy
Conserva – Trattoria Superga
A short ten minute walk downhill on the trail from the monument is the Trattoria Superga. It is on a rather busy road, however we saw as many cyclists while sitting there as we did cars and other forms of transportation.
Trattoria di Superga – Outside – Baldissero Torinese, Turin, Italy
We can only say that the food was very good and typical for Piedmont and the area. The Tajarin and salads were both delicious, though a bit pricey. Our entire lunch with wine, water, bruschetta, pasta, coffee and digestive came to €77 for two, which we consider rather high, though not exorbitant.
Trattoria di Superga – Inside – Baldissero Torinese, Turin, Italy
Trattoria di Superga – Insalata Mista and Croccante de Melanzana su Crema Pomodori Confit – Baldissero Torinese, Turin, Italy
Trattoria di Superga – Croccante de Melanzana su Crema Pomodori Confit – Baldissero Torinese, Turin, Italy
Trattoria di Superga – Tajarin di Re Vittoria Emmanuelle II and Onion Soup Gratinata alla Piemontese – Baldissero Torinese, Turin, Italy
Reggia di Venaria Reale was a royal residence and palace to the northwest of Turin, Italy. It was one of more that a dozen residences of the Savoy family. It was abondoned after the Napoleonic Wars and later became a military post and barracks and subsequently slowly fell into disrepair and abandonment. After a major restoration, it finally opened to the public in 2007 as a musuem and tourist attraction.
La Venaria Reale – Map of Complex – Turin, Italy
Getting There
The easiest was to get there from Turin is to take one of the SFM trains from Porta Susa towards the Turin Airport. Many of these trains stop at Venaria Station and it only takes about fifteen to twenty minutes and costs about €3.50 per person. We often use the phone application and do not book a round-trip ticket, since you never know how long you might stay, especially if you are planning for lunch as well.
Porta Susa – Leaving for Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Train Station at Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Train Station at Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Military Monument – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Andrea Mensa – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Andrea Mensa – Turin, Italy
The Palace
The palace is actually in two pieces, the original Palace of Diana from the seventeenth century in white stucco with a white clock tower and the latter eighteenth century addition in raw brick with the Belvedere Tower, where you enter.
La Venaria Reale – Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Clock Tower, Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Castelmonte – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Noble Families, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Noble Families, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Museum, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Art Room, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Art Room, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Castle Diorama, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
The Grand Gallery
Probably the most striking room and the pinnacle of the visit, the Grand Gallery is part of the Palace of Diana and a core piece of the original palace.
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Saubaud Generations, Bedrooms, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
Turin At The Turn Of The Century
There is a nice collection of maps, dioramas and other works depicting Turin at the turn of the seventeenth century. Interesting from the perspective of present day Turin and what was lacking back in the day of the House of Savoy.
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Piazza San Carlo, Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
The Rooms Of Art
There is also a fine exhibit of art at the palace. Located through the entrance to the gardens, the entrance is in the back of the Palace of Diana.
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
The Stables
Juvarra Stables
The Juvarra Stables contain a collection of the royal family’s modes of transportation, from a river gondolla, to the royal coach and other broughams, all the way to childrens toy coach.
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
The wall is surrounded by a historical account of a trip up the River Po using the gondola from Venice to Turin.
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
Alfieri Stables
Today these just appear as a hallway depicting the transition from a palace in ruin to full restoration. Some of the photographs in the collection are strinking and it is well worth thoughful look and some consideration.
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
The Gardens
The gardens here include several, the most conspicuous one is the Flower Garden. But there is also several orchards and three distinct terraces that one can walk through and enjoy the well manicured estate.
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Pig Sculpture in wood, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Patti, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Reflecting Pool, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Gondola Pool – Turin, Italy
Church of Saint Hubert
One has to walk to the Church of Saint Hubert from within the complex near the stables, outside entry is not possible. All of the pews have been removed, only the artwork, frescoes and a high altar remain, everything else is gone.
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
Restaurants
Il Convito della Venaria
Just on the corners of the Piazza della Repubblica and Via Andrea Mensa is the ristorante Il Convito della Venaria. A fine place for lunch, though probably a bit pricier than some of the alternatives, though restaurants and cafes appear to get sparser and sparser as you walk back towards the train station, so word of warning. We had a simple lunch of Bruschetta and two different pasta dishes, Patti had Maccheroncino al Tochio with Eggplant, Zucchini and Olives in a red sauce and I had the Agnolottini del Plin Piemontese Style, both were delicious.
Il Convito della Venaria – Pasta with Olives and Squash – Turin, Italy
Il Convito della Venaria – Plin Piemontese – Turin, Italy
Bern was originally settled by Swabians[1]The Zähringen noble family from around Freiburg im Breisgau in the twelfth century and quickly died out within a century. from the lower parts of Germany, it is the fifth largest in Switzerland and was initially surrounded by the Aare river on three sides, with fortifications protecting it’s west side.
Marktgasse – Zytglogge – Bern, Switzerland
Käfigturm – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Zytglogge – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Bern Fresco – Bern, Switzerland
Getting There
Bern does not have a commercial airport, so you will either have use Zürich‘s or Geneva’s and then take a train. We had already started in Geneva, so taking one of the ICE trains from Geneva to Bern was automatic. However, in typical SBB[2]Schweizerische BundesBahnen or Swiss train fashion, it was halted before leaving the Lake Léman area and we had to find another train to continue our two hour journey, which then turned into a three hour trip[3]There have been few times when traveling by train in Switzerland was a normal affair. It is getting to be more like the Deutscher Bahn.
Bern Train Station – Main Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Platform – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Main Waiting Hall – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Main Waiting Hall – Bern, Switzerland
The City
The old medieval city of Bern is rather compact, due to it being confined by the Aare river. The main train station is on the west side of the city, so it is probably best to find a hotel close to it. We stayed at the Hotel Savoy, three blocks away from the train station.
Gerberngasse – Interesting House – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Rose Garden Hill and Paul Klee Center – Bern, Switzerland
Walking from the train station to the Nydeggbrücke, via the Marktgasse of Kramgasse, should not take more than a twenty-five to thirty minutes without stopping. The main shopping avenue is the Marktgasse, which is lined with many watch stores and most other modern shops you expect to see in city that is heavily traveled. See the restaurant section below for where to go for food.
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Anna Seiler Brunnen – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Porticos and Shops – Bern, Switzerland
Rooftops and Houses across the Aare river – Bern, Switzerland
Old house – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Wasserwerkgasse from bridge – Bern, Switzerland
Brunnen Or Fountains
The city has a lot of brunnen, or fountains in English, especially down the middle of the Marktgasse. Most of these have figures or other mythical forms, stylized perhaps from some historical figure.
There is also the Lischetti-Brunnen, also known as the Postgassbrunnen or Upper Postgassbrunnen, which was erected in 1820 next to the Staatskanzelei (State Chancellery) and is to be used by anyone who wishes to experience being a fountain.
Lischettibrunnen – Kronenbrunner or Upper Postgass Fountain – Bern, Switzerland
Hotel Savoy
A fairly good hotel on the Kramgasse, sharing an entrance with another store. We found it reasonably priced for a Swiss hotel and central for visiting the city. The breakfast is rather expensive, as it is in most Swiss hotels, at 30CHF per person. We found this unreasonable and ventured out each morning to stop at one of the many Konditoreien, or pastry shops, in the neighborhood. This option ran around 9-10CHF per person, but was only coffee and a pastry, which for use was sufficient.
Hotel Savoy – Main Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedrals And Churches
A few religious buildings of note in Bern are the Cathedral of Bern and the Church of Saint Peter and Paul.
Cathedral Of Bern
Cathedral of Bern – Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Nave and Alter – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – History of Tower – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Houses of Patrons – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Intricate Facade over Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Fountain – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Backside – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Intricate Facade over Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Church Of Saint Peter And Paul
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Entrance, Rathausgasse – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Rose Window – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Nave and Altar – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Organ – Bern, Switzerland
Bridges And The Aare River
There are two central bridges that span the Aare at the tip of the city. The Untertorbrücke, the first one to be built and is shown on maps of the city from the seventeenth century, and the Nydeggbrücke, which carries the tram and modern vehicular traffic.
Untertorbrücke – Nydeggbrücke over the Aare – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – The Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – Patti and the Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – Patti and the Aare River, Rose Garden on the hill – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke and the Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Bären Park
On one end of the Nydeggbrücke is the Bärenpark, or Bear Park. As early as the beginning of the sixteenth century the city has been known to have a Bärengraben, or Bear Pit, of some type or another. Ostensibly the city becoming eponymously named for the same in 1191 when the Duke of Zähringen killed a bear first on one of his many famous hunts. But seriously, this is just conjecture and there is more evidence that it was from a pre-existing toponym of Celtic origin, possibly berna, meaning cleft.
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Einsteinhaus
On Marktgasse 49, visitors will find the Einsteinhaus, or the apartment that Albert Einstein lived in during his publication of his ground breaking theories of 1905, including his Special Theory of Relativity.
Kramgasse 49 – Einstein House – Bern, Switzerland
Kramgasse 49 – Einstein House – Bern, Switzerland
The Rosengarden Bern
One top of the hill on the other side of the Aare river is the park containing the Rose Garden, or Rosengarden. Unfortunately for us, the roses were not in bloom in May, so we were unable to enjoy their colors. However, there were other flowers, trees and bushes to be enjoyed in the park.
Rose Garden – Patti on walkway up to garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – Patti and the garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – The garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – The garden – Bern, Switzerland
It is here, that Albert Einstein probably contemplated many of the problems around his Theory of Relativity, and a bench here so commemorates his efforts.
Rose Garden – Einstein bench and overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
From this vantage point you get a very good view of the old Medieval city of Bern, with its many churches, bridges and old style houses.
Rose Garden – Overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – Erick and overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
Restaurants
The Bärenplatz and Waisenhausplatz are central areas for restaurants and have a good mix of local Swiss restaurants to Italian and other cuisines.
Bärenplatz – Market on Waisenhausplatz – Bern, Switzerland
Santa Lucia Ristorante
Another Italian restaurant which has a very active lunch crowd. Here you can enjoy reasonable prices and a wide selection of Italian dishes, including pizza. Our first evening here we enjoyed the soup and spaghetti.
Santa Lucia Ristorante – Minestrone Soup – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Spaghetti Bolognese – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Spaghetti and Tomatoes – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Banana Split – Bern, Switzerland
The second time we visited was for lunch, then I ordered a pizza, which was very good and typical of the Neapolitan style from Naples. The house wine is also very pleasant.
Santa Lucia Ristorante – Pizza Margherita – Bern, Switzerland
Ristorante Luce
On the corner of Zeughausgasse and Waghausegasse is the Italian restaurant of Ristorante Luce. If you are looking for higher end Italian food, look no further. The service here is also exceptional, though the seating was a bit cramped.
Ristorante Luce – Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Ristorante Luce – Patti with her Soup – Bern, Switzerland
Here they serve very good Italian specialties and have an excellent wine list. Here you can find Strozzapreti, or Priest Strangler/Choker Pasta with Mozzarella. A rather large and somewhat gummy pasta with an very interesting history.
Ristorante Luce – Strozzapreti Pasta with Buffalo Mozzarella – Bern, Switzerland
I can specifically attest to spending 150CHF for a 375ml bottle of Ornellaia 2019. A DOC wine from Italy with extremely high ratings which regularly fetches $250-$800 a bottle, a truly amazing wine. So if you are a true wine lover, your pallet might enjoy this restaurant.
Ristorante Luce – Ornellaia Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019 – Bern, Switzerland
