Before leaving Linz for Budapest, we had to get a bite to eat. What better place is there than a Jindrak Konditorei? There appear to be satellite pastry shops of this company all over the city, including very close to our hotel.
Inside – Jindrak Konditorei – Near Hotel – Linz, Austria
Breakfast – Jindrak Konditorei – Near Hotel – Linz, Austria
Apple Strudel – Jindrak Konditorei – Near Hotel – Linz, Austria
Shortly afterwards, we were on the road for a four hour drive into Hungary. In about two hours we left Austria for Hungary and the Budapest signs started appearing quite regularly.
Driving to Budapest leaving Austria
Budapest
Entering any city, anywhere at rush hour, is normally not a good idea, but we hardly had a choice. In any event, it went rather smoothly considering the bridges from Buda into Pest and all of the one-way streets. Soon we were at our destination, the Mystery Hotel.
Arriving at hotel – Mystery Hotel – Budapest, Hungary
Entrance – Mystery Hotel – Budapest, Hungary
The Hungarian people are extremely nice and most speak very good English. So, there shouldn’t be any issues in the immediate area.
Plaza in front of church – Saint Stephens Basilica – Budapest, Hungary
Typical dining street – Budapest, Hungary
Not far from our hotel is Liberty Square; this is where the American Embassy is located. Here you will find monuments, statues and buildings of interest.
American Embassy – Budapest, Hungary
Exchange Palace – Budapest, Hungary
Adria Palace – Budapest, Hungary
Looking toward parliament – Budapest, Hungary
Liberty Square – Budapest, Hungary
Liberty Square – Budapest, Hungary
Wing of Exchange Palace – Budapest, Hungary
Historical Facade – Budapest, Hungary
At the entrance of this square is also an eternal flame memorial.
Lajos Batthyányi Eternal Flame – Liberty Square – Budapest, Hungary
Saint Stephen’s Basilica
Not far from our hotel is the Basilica of Saint Stephen. Though we did not enter it, if only from church exhaustion, the outside is rather impressive and very nice to see, especially in the evening.
Saint Stephens Basilica – Budapest, Hungary
Saint Stephens Basilica – Budapest, Hungary
At night – Saint Stephens Basilica – Budapest, Hungary
Hotels
There are many hotels to choose from in Budapest. We chose one that would be close to things, but not to far out from the center that you could not get to it by a tram or metro, as well as reasonably priced parking. The Mystery Hotel fits that bill nicely and is decently priced such that it should not break your bank.
Mystery Hotel
For people interested in driving or taking the train, the Mystery Hotel offers a great five star option close to the main railroad station with valet parking. It is also a few blocks away from the oldest Metro line in the city, the M1.
Lobby – Mystery Hotel – Budapest, Hungary
Lobby – Mystery Hotel – Budapest, Hungary
Breakfast room – Mystery Hotel – Budapest, Hungary
Since the hotel occupies an old renovated building not initially intended for occupation, the rooms are interestingly configured inside. Some even have lofts, so stay flexible, since they are well maintained and well appointed.
Our room – Mystery Hotel – Budapest, Hungary
Our room – Mystery Hotel – Budapest, Hungary
Bathroom – Mystery Hotel – Budapest, Hungary
Restaurants
As the capitol of Hungary and at a very busy intersection of Europe, Budapest has a huge selection of all kinds of different cuisines, especially Hungarian.
Retek Bisztro
Rather pricey and on the high-end of restaurants is the Retek Bisztro. It is located not far from the basilica and in downtown Budapest. It is a very busy place, so make reservations before you leave on your trip, since it fills up fast.
Exterior – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary
Front Room and bar – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary
The restaurants offers most authentic Hungarian cuisine, from Hungarian Goulash to Hungarian meatballs. You will notice that most of my photographs came out a bit orange, since there was a red lamp very near our table.
Patti and Ericka – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary
hors d’oeuvres – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary
Hungarian Goulash soup – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary
Duck leg with noodle and sauerkraut – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary
Salmon – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary
Hungarian deep fried meatballs with mashed potatoes – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary
Poppy-seed cake – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary
Sunday – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary
Along with a bottle of wine, the entire bill for four people and drinks came to 220€.
Fekete Cabernet – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary
Our trip from Bad Gastein to Linz took us through the Berchtesgaden Alps of Salzburg. As the train starts to navigate through the narrow pass of Salzachtal, the mountains rear up quickly to the point where you aren’t even able to take a photograph of them anymore from the train window.
Coming into Salzburg – Salzburg, Austria
Coming into Salzburg – Salzburg, Austria
Linz The City
Linz is a typical Austrian city and the capital of Upper Austria or OberÖsterreich. It is for the most part clean and has the typical European city layout, with an old medieval part surrounded by a newer main street and some other ancillary shopping avenues in a more planned pattern.
Overlook of Linz – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Linz has somewhat of a checkered past and has had a difficult time getting out from under that reputation; there are reminders in the city everywhere, with it’s Hitlerbauten. Aside from that, the places of interest are all in an area comparable to places like Munich or even Copenhagen. So, you should be able to reach everything within a good twenty to thirty minute walk.
Danube Park – Linz, Austria
Danube Park – Linz, Austria
Nibelungen Bridge – Linz, Austria
Nibelungen Bridge – Linz, Austria
Nibelungen Bridge – Linz, Austria
Danube river – Nibelungen Bridge – Linz, Austria
One comes away with the immediate impression that few, if any of the structures are original. This is probably partially due to the war and the Linzers going contemporary, when they can. The bridges that jump the Danube are for the most part modern, as is much of the architecture in the city. At times you could mistake the city for a similar place in the United States, since many of the shops use English and have cosmopolitan origins.
The Innenstadt
Most restaurants, cafes and shops seem to be along the Hauptstraße in the Innenstadt. Here is where you will find the main tram line, which goes the entire length of this street all the way across the bridge to Urfahr on the other side.
Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Neptune’s Fountain – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Dreifälitigsaule – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Dreifälitigsaule – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Churches
There are several churches worth visiting while in Linz, with special attention to Ursuline and Marien Dom if you are pressed for time. The following two were photographed, but not open at the time. Ignatius Church is also known as the Alter Dom and was the primary church prior to the Linzer Dom being built.
Priester Seminary and church – Linz, Austria
Ignatius Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Ursuline Church
The Ursuline Church is on Landstraße and is somewhat difficult to photograph from the street.
Ursuline Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
However, it has a magnificent inside which many will find interesting.
Inside – Ursuline Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Inside – Ursuline Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Side altar – Ursuline Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Martin Luther Church
In true protestant style, both the outside and inside of the church are rather basic. But from a historical perspective, still interesting to visit.
Martin Luther Church – Linz, Austria
Martin Luther Church – Linz, Austria
Inside – Martin Luther Church – Linz, Austria
Marien Dom
This is Linz’s Cathedral and the largest church in Linz and in Austria. The Marien-Dom is also known as Mariä-Empfängnis-Dom, the New Cathedral or the Linzer Dom. It borders the Altstadt and can be found along the Herrenstraße and Baumbachstraße
Front – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Spire – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
It is a true cathedral and adheres true to the dimensions of the cross in its architecture (seen from the air).
High altar wth crown – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
High altar – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Organ – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Nave – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Inside – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
The Altstadt
The old part of the city is rather small and unremarkable. It is near the Castle and park and runs up to the Upper Austrian government buildings. A short walk down the Hofgasse will bring you to the Schloßberg where the old castle and its grounds are maintained.
Altstadt – Linz, Austria
Former Kremsmünster Abbey. – Altstadt – Linz, Austria
Government building and tower – Altstadt – Linz, Austria
Mozart Forum house – Linz, Austria
The Old Town Hall – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Schloßberg Castle
The Schloßberg Castle is not open on Mondays, so before going there you may want to check the entries times and dates. The other direction you can take to reach the castle is via Tiefergraben and walking through the back part of the park first. Walking this way first you will come across Martins Church and a statue of Kepler.
Old buildings – Tiefer Graben – Linz, Austria
Tiefer Graben – Linz, Austria
Castle city gate – Tiefer Graben – Linz, Austria
Martins church – Linz, Austria
Inside – Martins church – Linz, Austria
Martins Gate – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Kepler’s Monument – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Castle Gate – Castle park – Linz, Austria
The castle is another example of the Linzers throwing old and new architecture together. We are not at all to happy with this trend (including the Louvre in Paris), however, we do not live in the city either and its people obviously feel a need to move forward and live in a more contemporary setting.
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The grounds have a small park which has a few monuments in it and a very good overlook of the Danube river and Pöstlingberg.
Observation point – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Pöstlingbergbahn And Pöstlingberg
A good half day trip is taking the tram up to Pöstlingberg using the Pöstlingbergbahn or tram. It starts in the Hauptplatz and stops several times along the way to service local residents and students, since there are a few university stops along the way.
Tickets For Two – Pöstlingbergbahn – Linz, Austria
Entrance Pöstlingbergbahn Museum – Linz, Austria
Tram stop Landgutstraße – Pöstlingbergbahn – Linz, Austria
Pöstlingberg stop – Pöstlingbergbahn – Linz, Austria
Castle park entrance – Pöstlingbergbahn – Linz, Austria
The view of Linz once you reach the top is truly worth the time and effort.
Overlook – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Wallfahrts Basilica
On the top of Pöstlingberg sits the Wallfahrts Basilica of the Sieben Schmerzen Mariae, or the Seven Pains of Mary. It has a commanding view of Linz and the surrounding areas.
Outside view – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Towers – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
The basilica inside is quite impressive and is also known as the Pöstlingberg Pilgrimage Church.
Inside – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
It also has a very nice park adjacent to it where you can leisurely stroll while the cool air up there offers a breeze on warm days.
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Grottenbahn
There is also the Grottenbahn for those that have children or are young at heart. Apparently, it is a miniature railway inside that takes young people fantasy ride where there are gnomes and other fairytale characters, most likely with an emphasis on European tales.
Grottenbahn or train – Linz, Austria
Grottenbahn entrance – Linz, Austria
Though we did not take the adventure, we found the cost for one adult to be around 6€/person.
Restaurants
Since we were both feeling a bit under the weather, due to an unusual virus we had both caught; we decided to eat in at the hotel most evenings. Below are the exceptions to that rule and are special places to eat while in Linz.
Jindrak Konditorei
Located throughout Linz are copies of this original konditorei located on Herrenstraße in the altstadt. They are known for the amazing Linzer Torte and other baked delicacies. For any serious dessert lover and a must Kaffee und Kucken stop in mid afternoon when in Linz.
Herrenstraße – Linz, Austria
Jindrak Konditorei – Herrenstraße – Linz, Austria
Linzer Tort – Jindrak Konditorei – Herrenstraße – Linz, Austria
Our trip started at Turin’s Porta Susa train station. For a little over 12€/person, you can purchase a one-way commuter ticket on Piedmont’s Sfm4 line to Alba, which takes about an hour and twenty minutes to get there, going through Bra first, which can also be a stop on your itinerary.
Porta Susa Terminal – Turin, Italy
Porta Susa Terminal – Turin, Italy
Alba
Alba train station – Alba, Italy
Anyone serious about wine or truffles has to visit Alba, Italy. Located an hour or so south of Turin, it is a bustling center for both, especially in the Fall when both of these products are harvested. Our whole intent on visiting the town was a wine tour we had booked for Barolo and Barbaresco (covered in my next post), but we decided to grab a hotel and enjoy an extra day just to explore.
Valerio Berruti sculptor – Alba, Italy
Piazza Michele Ferrero – Alba, Italy
Corso Michele Coppino – Alba, Italy
Porticos in Alba – Alba, Italy
The streets of Alba are well kept – Alba, Italy
Hotel Casa Della Torre – Alba, Italy
Piazza Risorgimento – Alba, Italy
Giorgio Busca Theater – Alba, Italy
The town is rather self contained and almost in the shape of a loose hexagon, owing to its ancient Roman ancestry as a fortification no doubt. There are several places where these ancient ruins are evident and demonstrate how the town itself is constructed upon them, using them as a foundation. There are also underground caverns and tunnels that can be explored, but arrangements have to be made ahead of time in order to visit them.
Roman Theater and Palazzo Marro remains – Alba, Italy
Roman Theater and Palazzo Marro remains – Alba, Italy
The town has numerous towers and it was once known as the town with a hundred towers. These were most likely constructed as lookouts and were defensive in nature.
The towers of Alba – Alba, Italy
Three towers of Alba – Alba, Italy
Piazza Paertinace – Alba, Italy
Palazzo Communale and Cathedral of San Lorenzo – Alba, Italy
Another bell tower – Alba, Italy
There are also numerous churches, as is true of most Italian towns and cities. The cathedral, or Duomo, occupies a central place near the town’s marketplace and between the Piazza Duomo and Piazza Rossetti. The interior is typical for its size and function.
Cathedral of San Lorenzo – Alba, Italy
Other churches, including the Church of the Maddalena, actually have more interesting and elaborate interiors. One, the Church of Saint John the Baptist, looks more like a provincial library than a church inside.
Chiesa della Maddalena, via Vincenzo Gioberti – Alba, Italy
Chiesa della Maddalena – Alba, Italy
Chiesa della Maddalena – Alba, Italy
Chiesa della Maddalena – Alba, Italy
Hotel Dellatorre
A three star hotel, which is actually more of a converted Bed-n-Breakfast, than a real hotel. It is more like a cafe/bar that has added rooms and tries to call itself a hotel. All the rooms are separate and there is no main structure with hallways, they all have external doors.
Hotel Casa Della Torre – Alba, Italy
Hotel Casa Della Torre – Alba, Italy
The owner runs a cafe or bar as well, and although we stayed here for one night, we did not use her cafe for breakfast, since we had learned that the beverages were a bit over-priced. Again, we are not sure whether that is in fact the case, but we did notice that there was no menu or price list anywhere. While we travel we have a general rule that if the prices are not listed, we tend to avoid the establishment.
Hotel Casa Della Torre – Alba, Italy
Hotel Casa Della Torre – Alba, Italy
The room was spacious enough, quiet and comfortable for the most part. The bed was very hard, so if you prefer that kind of mattress firmness, this place might be for you.
Restaurants
Conterosso
For lunch we ate at Conterosso and chose two of the local dishes. Patti had the Agnolotti with truffles and I had the veal with a barolo wine sauce, both were excellent dishes.
Conterosso – Alba, Italy
Caprese salad – Conterosso – Alba, Italy
Agnolotti with black truffles – Conterosso – Alba, Italy
Veal in Barolo sauce with potatoes – Conterosso – Alba, Italy
Gusto Madre
A contemporary dining place that makes excellent pizza. Located in Piazza Michele Ferrero, it is just on the edge of town.
Gusto Madre – Alba, Italy
Since Patti was not feeling well, I ate alone and just ordered a simple Pizza Margherita which was drizzled with a pesto, it was actually quite good.
Stresa is a small lake-side tourist attraction on Lake Maggiore, Italy. It is frequented by Italians, Brits, French, Germans, Asians and the odd American. It is only a tiny strip of about a few kilometers, where there are a dozen or so hotels. It is not very busy, unlike the Mediterranean coast, so it is very laid back and relaxing – a quiet retreat.
View from hotel room – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
The town is rather simple, but it has ample restaurants and other types of shopping. There is also an amazing AgriGelateria at Corso Umberto I, which has excellent gelato with all natural and authentic flavors, a must stop, especially when it is really hot outside.
Downtown Stresa – Stresa, Italy
Side street – Stresa, Italy
Pedestrian way – Stresa, Italy
Main Piazza – Stresa, Italy
Another side street – Stresa, Italy
Lake Maggiore – Stresa, Italy
Lake Maggiore – Stresa, Italy
Tourist Gate of Stresa – Stresa, Italy
Lungolago di Stresa
Stresa also has a wonderful boardwalk area stretching from Stresa along the lake front and becoming the Passeggiata del lago di Carciano, which is directly across from Isola Bella. It’s a bit over a kilometer and will take about a quarter to half of an hour to walk, depending on your pace.
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Hotel Regina Palace
In its heyday, this four star hotel must have been a place to see and enjoy. However, aside from its opulent structure, this hotel is a solid three-star hotel than what it’s advertised.
Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
The issues we had while here for our short five day star were as follows:
Our room was not vacuumed for our entire stay.
There was no Hair Conditioner nor Body Lotion in the bathroom.
The plumbing is old, requires repairs and updating, some things leak continuously.
The walls in the rooms are paper-thin and the painting is dated.
Room service does not fill everything you would expect, e.g. tissues.
In the dining area – they do not replace things unless you request and even then you might not get it, e.g. syrup for your pancakes.
In the dining area – you may have to seat yourself, the concierge is not very attentive. I know it’s Italy, but most of the time half of the staff is standing around doing nothing.
The hotel is in a very strategic position along the coast, it is both very close to the islands and the town, this was one of the reasons we selected it. So, if you visit this hotel, be aware of the aforementioned issues and go in with your eyes wide shut.
Car Entrance – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
Main Lobby – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
Main Lobby – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
Main Lobby – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
Bar – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
View of the three islands – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
View of Leveno and Monte Crocetta – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
Diese Woche hatten wir die Gelegenheit unsere guten deutschen Freunde in Mainz zu treffen. Bevor wir unsere aktuelle Reise begannen, schickte ich meinem Freund Karl Heinz eine E-Mail, um alles zu planen. Und in den letzten Tagen haben wir uns gefreut, dass all unsere Planungen für uns geklappt haben.
Eine Kleine Reise Mit Dem Zug
Da wir eine Woche in Offenbach am Main waren, um unsere Töchter Ericka und ihren Mann Gabriel zu besuchen, mussten wir die DB S8 ab Offenbach Markplatz nehmen, die direkt zur Mainz Romisches Theater Haltestelle führt. Das bedeutete, dass wir von der Wohnung unserer Tochter in der Innenstadt laufen mussten, aber das kein Problem war, denn es dauert nur ungefahr fünfzehn Minuten.
Train Status S8
Nach fast zehn Minuten des Anfangs unserer Reise gab es eine Störung, einen Gegenstand leigt auf den Gleissen und das rotes Stopplicht angeschaltet war. Es dauert 43 Minuten bevor wir unsere Reise fortfahren könnten.
Restaurants
Für Mittagsessen wählten wir Hof Ehrenfels.
Hotel and Restaurant Hof Ehrenfels
Hof Ehrenfels
Dieser restaurant ist auch ein Drei-Stern-Hotel mit einem schönen Garten, den man draussen sitzen kann während man isst.
We arrived by plane from Catania, Sicily in France’s EuroAirport, also known as the Basel-Mulhouse-Friebourg airport. You arrive via the air and exit in any one of three countries, Switzerland, Germany or France.
Three exits at airport, Germany, Switzerland and France – Basel -Mulhouse-Freibourg Airport, France
A word of caution though, exiting in France, you may find it difficult to get a taxi. We waited for a half an hour and ended up sharing a ride with a Frenchmen that explained to us that exiting via the France exit has the least amount of taxis. Of course, the airport has no information booth and you can’t of course change your mind once you are out.
French exit – Basel -Mulhouse-Freibourg Airport, France
The taxi drive was about five minutes and we were standing at the Saint-Louis la Chaussée train stop, having already purchased our tickets via phone. From there we went to Mulhouse and then on to Strasbourg, again using France’s regional train service, which you can essentially purchase any ticket in the future and still be able to use it for earlier trains.
Main train station – Strasbourg, France
Argantorati
Just barely in France on the border with Germany is the small quaint city of Straßburg, or Strasbourg to the French, and it actually goes by other names to some of the ethnic minorities. The name has German origins and meaning as ‘the town at the crossing of roads‘. It is also the place where the river Ill dumps into the mighty Rhine river.
Notre Dame de Strasbourg – Strasbourg, France
The original settlement here before the fifth century CE, was known as the fortified silver settlement, a compound of the Celtic arganto for silver and rati for fortification. It was later latinized into Argentium and Argentina, or city of silver, where it is known in numerous texts. What follows is a slideshow of some of the many amazing sites you will see as you walk the city.
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Notre Dame
The town has a huge and wonderfully prominent cathedral called Notre Dame de Strasbourg, also known as the Straßburger Münster in German.
Lit up at night – Notre Dame de Strasbourg – Strasbourg, France
Its construction began in the late twelfth century and its impressive bell tower and spire were added more than 120 years after the start of construction, which I might add was never completed, since the addition of a second right tower and spire never came to fruition. The outside at night is spectacular, the interior and exterior lighting provide an excellent balance to show the real grandeur of this cathedral.
Lit up at night – Notre Dame de Strasbourg – Strasbourg, France
Lit up at night – Notre Dame de Strasbourg – Strasbourg, France
Lit up at night – Notre Dame de Strasbourg – Strasbourg, France
Lit up at night – Notre Dame de Strasbourg – Strasbourg, France
Lit up at night – Notre Dame de Strasbourg – Strasbourg, France
Lit up at night – Notre Dame de Strasbourg – Strasbourg, France
Lit up at night – Notre Dame de Strasbourg – Strasbourg, France
Lit up at night – Notre Dame de Strasbourg – Strasbourg, France
Lit up at night – Notre Dame de Strasbourg – Strasbourg, France
Of course, this is balanced well by the stained-glass windows illuminated by the sun in the early morning hours. The interior also houses an ecclesiastical astronomical clock which was built in the early 1570s.
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Get here early, usually before ten o’clock, otherwise the tour groups from the Viking cruises start to assemble and you will have little chance, the line often snakes all the way out the courtyard and around the block!
Palace Rohan
Across the river Ill from our hotel was the Rohan Palace, which houses several museums. We toured the Museum of Decorative Arts, just to get a view of the palace from inside.
Palace Rohan entrance – Strasbourg, France
Palace Rohan – Strasbourg, France
We all found the decorative arts inside the museum a bit avant-guarde for our tastes, but typically French. The interior of the palace for the most part met expectations.
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Pont du Faisan
Built in 1888 this is a working example of an old hydraulic swing bridge. Below is a short video showing it in operation. First the two ends are closed for traffic, then the operator swings the bridge to allow boats through the gate. We were able to see this as a pedestrian and on the Strasbourg sightseeing tour boat. It is a very interesting piece of engineering and on a small scale, perhaps better than raising a bridge.
Ponts Couverts de Strasbourg
This Ponts Couverts is a set of thirteen century covered bridges and towers on the southwest part of the island. Initially a battlement and constructed of wood, the roofs were later removed and eventually the bridges were rebuilt in stone.
The Pont Courverts – Strasbourg, France
At least one of them was made into a prison and it was later told, though falsely, that executions were also carried out there, though there is no evidence of this happening.
The Courvert Towers – Strasbourg, France
Hotel Cour Du Corbeau
A very good hotel that is strategically located close to the old city center in Krutenau is the Hotel Cour Du Corbeau. It is situated just across the river Ill and two blocks away from the cathedral. Parking for cars is only a block away and many restaurants and cafes are within ten minutes walking distance.
An old inn renovated – Hotel Cour Du Corbeau – Strasbourg, France
The courtyard and cafe – Hotel Cour Du Corbeau – Strasbourg, France
Old wooden framing – Hotel Cour Du Corbeau – Strasbourg, France
Renovated inside – Hotel Cour Du Corbeau – Strasbourg, France
Since we were arriving by train, we took the D Tram from the Central Station and got off at the Hospital stop. From there we were only a ten minute walk away.
Old spiral staircase – Hotel Cour Du Corbeau – Strasbourg, France
The hotel is a smartly renovated and modernized version of an old inn that was used by workmen that worked at the tanneries and other places throughout the city. It maintains many of the old beams and architectural elements of the old building. However, it includes air-conditioning and many other modern amenities.
The lobby – Hotel Cour Du Corbeau – Strasbourg, France
The lobby – Hotel Cour Du Corbeau – Strasbourg, France
Outside courtyard – Hotel Cour Du Corbeau – Strasbourg, France
Outside courtyard and bar – Hotel Cour Du Corbeau – Strasbourg, France
Although you may initially find their 27€ price for breakfast a bit steep, it is well worth it since they provide both hot and cold buffet items, as well as a wide selection of coffees.
Old spiral staircase – Hotel Cour Du Corbeau – Strasbourg, France
Restaurants
Being a very busy tourist spot, Strasbourg has a plethora of restaurants, anything from traditional Alsatian food, to Chinese and other cosmopolitan cuisines. So you shouldn’t go hungry, even without a reservation.
Maison Des Tanneurs
The House of the Tanners restaurant was the furthest of all the restaurants from our hotel and took a good fifteen minute walk to reach.
Restaurant – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
Restaurant – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
Restaurant – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
Former names – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
Located in the far southwest corner of the island and near the Ponts Couverts it commands a nice view of the river Ill. So, if you want window side seat, reserve your seat early, we arrived at our reservation time and the sign was already posted on the menu outside – totally booked this evening.
View from window – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
Inside – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
Our appetizers – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
Gulash like soup – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
La Choucroute – Heap of sauerkraut and assorted meat – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
Tenderloin with sauce Bearnaise and potato croquettes – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
Inside – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
The window view again – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
La Piazza
We ate here on a first night and it is a decent restaurant with pretty good Italian food. We sat inside near the wood burning over, so the pizza they made for us was using the traditional method. The service was fine and our drinks met all of our expectations. However, the toilet left much to be desired, I suggest you become prepared to avoid a visit.
Patti and Ericka – La Piazza restaurant – Strasbourg, France
Gabi and Erick – La Piazza restaurant – Strasbourg, France
The menu – La Piazza restaurant – Strasbourg, France
A nice wine – a Sicilian Nero D’Avola – La Piazza restaurant – Strasbourg, France
Au Tire Bouchon
Another excellent Alsatian restaurant choice is the Au Tire Bouchon. Though it does not have the view the House of Tanners provides, the food is on par with that establishment.
Street entrance – Au Tire Bouchon – Strasbourg, France
Alley and back entrance – Au Tire Bouchon – Strasbourg, France
Entrance sign – Corkpuller – Au Tire Bouchon – Strasbourg, France
Entrance – Au Tire Bouchon – Strasbourg, France
The menu – Au Tire Bouchon – Strasbourg, France
Inside – Au Tire Bouchon – Strasbourg, France
Beef and mashed potatoes – Au Tire Bouchon – Strasbourg, France
We have traveled a lot throughout Europe and especially Italy and occasionally you will get a rainy or snowy day. But nothing prepared us for our arrival in Cefalù, or as we write it in english, Cefalu; a small touristy town situated on the north side of the island of Sicily.
Train Station – Cefalu, Sicily
Cefalù
We arrived by Trenitalia’s Pop train from Palermo, which runs approximately every hour and costs around 6.50€/person. These are normally local tourism trains in the major areas and can be called Pop, Jazz, or almost anything. They provide reasonably priced and fast transportation to the coastal tourism spots. If you need to travel a longer distance, you will most likely have to use the normal Trenitalia or Intercity service.
The City Map – Cefalu, Sicily
Similar to other touristy spots in the US and other parts of the world, Cefalu is definitely administered and managed for the traveler. Though quiet during these months, I can imagine it can get a bit noisy during the summer months with its extensive beach and boardwalk beckoning travelers on. With the addition of all the shops and artisans in town, you have the perfect recipe for the tourist trap. So, if you are only interested in the historic aspects of the town and area, it probably behooves you to travel earlier or later in the year, in order to avoid its busy potential. Otherwise, if you are a sun lover, this could be a very good destination for you.
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Other than that, we happened to arrive when Sicily was getting one of its worst storm system in twenty years. Not only did it rain incessantly, the wind and the temperatures made for a quite challenging time. If there wasn’t water, water, everywhere, there was always the threat of rain, so you always had to pack an umbrella. We got wet so often, we started debating whether we should go out at all. We were glad we did, otherwise there would have been no way to see everything that we did in such a compressed time.
Monte de Pieta
The Mount of Pity was first funded in the early 1700s by Don Vincenzo Costa. The institution became very important to the economy of the city, but after World War II fell into decline. It has elegantly framed windows and a molded lintel and is an example of the advanced baroque architecture in Cefalu.
Monte di Pieta – Cefalu, Sicily
Torre Orologio
Not far from Il Duomo and in Piazza Garibaldi, almost next to Ristorante Porta Terra is the Torre Orologio, or the clock tower. Like most other cities, probably the go to place at one time to set your own timepiece to, but now, though it still functions, appears to be in dire need of some repairs. While we were eating at Porta Terra, we noticed the bells do not function perfectly, even though if you paid attention, it appeared to tell the correct time within a few minutes of the actual, even though the ringing was quite muted.
Torre Orologie – Cefalu, Sicily
Lavatoio Medievale Fiume Cefalin
This little historic bit, easily missed by the unaware tourist ambling along the via Vittorio Emanuele, is an old laundry.
The Medieval Laundry – Lavatoio Medievale Fiume Cefalino – Cefalu, Sicily
The Medieval Laundry – Lavatoio Medievale Fiume Cefalino – Cefalu, Sicily
The Medieval Laundry – Lavatoio Medievale Fiume Cefalino – Cefalu, Sicily
The Medieval Laundry – Lavatoio Medievale Fiume Cefalino – Cefalu, Sicily
The Medieval Laundry – Lavatoio Medievale Fiume Cefalino – Cefalu, Sicily
Made out of stone and fountains, the town’s people in the old days used to come here to do their laundry. It is still in working order, though modern day appliances make its use today superfluous.
Il Duomo
The Cathedral of Syracuse sits on high ground directly under the La Rocca, or The Rock. It has a large piazza and spacious interior and can be seen from some distance. While we were here, it was under renovation inside, so we were unable to see it in all its glory.
The Towers and Facade from a distance – Il Duomo – Cefalu, Sicily
The Courtyard – Il Duomo – Cefalu, Sicily
The Piazza Il Duomo – Il Duomo – Cefalu, Sicily
Main Entrance – Il Duomo – Cefalu, Sicily
Main Entrance Stained Glass – Il Duomo – Cefalu, Sicily
Main Entrance Stained Glass – Il Duomo – Cefalu, Sicily
A Chapel – Il Duomo – Cefalu, Sicily
The Cathedral Inside – Il Duomo – Cefalu, Sicily
The Old Wooden Roof – Il Duomo – Cefalu, Sicily
The Crypt Entrance – Il Duomo – Cefalu, Sicily
Castello di Cefalu
You enter the hike to the caste via the Rocca di Cefalu. It starts out with finely paved stairs and steps, that one would typically find in any Italian town with hills in it.
The Ticket booth and entrance – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Ascending – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
The initial path – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
The first cliff ledge – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
More cliffs – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
The steep cliff and cacti – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
The entrance fee is 5€/person and the experience will definitely introduce one to the true meaning of Italian bureaucracy. Not only is there a self-service machine, but someone there that actually asks you what you want, takes your money, purchases the ticket for you, then hands it to someone else in the kiosk who is there to tabulate the number in a book. This number is again used when you leave, so do not throw your ticket out. Once your ticket is returned, another person is waiting to take it from you and helps you scan it in the automated turnstile. All in today’s times totally unnecessary. There is obviously either some abstruse Italian or municipal law that probably requires them to do so.
The steps through the second entrance – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Over the main cliff face – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
The town below – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Storm damage and mud mixed up by the waves – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
After the turnstile, the hike starts immediately to climb. There are hairpins all along the way up until you enter the first set of walls and gates, which were the first line of defense. This was a perfect point in which to take a few photographs and enjoy the view of Cefalu from above.
Tickets For Two – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
The trail signs – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
The hike then brings you to a fork in the road with a sign, archeological ruins left, castle right, we chose the right route, figuring we wanted to see it first. It then continues and enters a steep area of tree and grass along sheer walls of stone, home to a large number of goats. If you pay attention, you can hear their calls and see them climbing the stone walls as if to mock you.
A panorama of the town and trail – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
After what seems like another half an hour of switching back and forth along the trail you enter the area of the castle. Here are the remnants of the once grand Cefalu Castle, Perched high above the town, it had a commanding view of the countryside and in its time, must have been unassailable. From here one can take amazing photographs of the town below, the sea and the beautiful countryside below.
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On the way down we bore right in the direction of the archeological site. The path was somewhat muddier and steeper then the other path we ascended upon. However, we descended quickly and enjoyed visiting the Temple of Demeter and an old cistern that is onsite. There is also a cafe here, were you can purchase something small to eat or drink. From here the descent is rapid and soon enough you will be handing the ticket back to the office so they can record your departure, or whatever useful information they derive from it.
Patti in the ruins – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
The last ruins – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
The giant cistern, 50 meters deep – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
More ruins – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
One of the many pleasures of the Italian countryside and its parks, are the flowers. Italy goes out of its way not to poison things, so there are numerous flowers and other blossoming things around, where bees and other pollinators can feed. Here is a short slideshow with some examples on this hike.
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Hotel Victoria Palace
Our hotel was situated right across the street from the boardwalk and the sea. The views were very nice and we found it especially convenient, instead of being directly in town, where the streets are more confining and more difficult to move around in. The rooms here are fairly spacious and have most of the amenities that Americans are used, with the exception of an ironing board and a few other things. All and all, the staff is very friendly and welcoming and the downstairs cafe has excellent coffee and also a gelato bar, which we frequented more than once.
Hotel Victoria Palace – Cefalu, Sicily
Restaurants
The White Horse
We ate dinner here the first night in Cefalu. We chose this restaurant due to the threat of rain and because it was right up the street and very close. Unfortunately at the time, we didn’t realize that being in the vicinity would help much staying dry.
The White Horse Restaurant – Cefalu, Sicily
Nero D’Avola – A nice Sicilian wine – White Horse Restaurant – Cefalu, Sicily
Sicilian Calzone with onion – White Horse Restaurant – Cefalu, Sicily
The food here is typical Italian pizzeria, very good and very reasonable prices. They have pizza, calzone, spaghetti and pasta dishes, and a wood fired brick oven to cook it all in.
Il Gabbiano
We actually ate here twice, once for lunch and once for dinner.
Ristorante – Al Gabbiano – Cefalu, Sicily
For lunch we ate outside, since the weather was trying to improve and it was rather nice out. I ordered the Zuppa di Verdure and the Spaghetti al Pomodoro and Patti had a mixed salad.
Patti Ready For Lunch – Ristorante – Al Gabbiano – Cefalu, Sicily
Erick Ready For Lunch – Ristorante – Al Gabbiano – Cefalu, Sicily
For dinner we ate inside, since the evenings in May can be rather cool, especially with the breeze from the sea blowing inland. I ordered the the mixed salad and the Spaghetti Bolognese, Patti order the Spaghetti al Pomodoro I had the day before. Both were delicious and with wine and water came to a reasonable 35€.
Zuppa di Verdura – Ristorante – Al Gabbiano – Cefalu, Sicily
Spaghetti al Pomodoro – Ristorante – Al Gabbiano – Cefalu, Sicily
Insalata Mista – Ristorante – Al Gabbiano – Cefalu, Sicily
A View Before The Rain – Ristorante – Al Gabbiano – Cefalu, Sicily
La Siciliana
This is a delightful restaurant for lunch and is located within the town on via Gioeni. It has a full manu and will please seafood and land lovers alike.
The entrance – Ristorante La Siciliana – Cefalu, Sicily
A Sicilian Medusan Symbol – Ristorante La Siciliana – Cefalu, Sicily
The restaurant’s courtyard – Ristorante La Siciliana – Cefalu, Sicily
Patti waiting for her food – Ristorante La Siciliana – Cefalu, Sicily
I had the Zuppa di Verdura con Legumi and the Lasagna, while Patti finally found here Aranchini on the menu and ordered a sampler plate of that. Both were delicious. With food, a hald liter of wine, water and coffee, it came to a reasonable 37€ for two.
Vino rosso della casa and aranchini – Ristorante La Siciliana – Cefalu, Sicily
Aranchini – Deep fried cheese and rice, ham and rice, cuttlefish ink and rice – Ristorante La Siciliana – Cefalu, Sicily
Zuppa di Verdura – Ristorante La Siciliana – Cefalu, Sicily
Lasagna – Ristorante La Siciliana – Cefalu, Sicily
Patti – Ristorante La Siciliana – Cefalu, Sicily
Porta Terra
A fine restaurant located in the Piazza Garibaldi in the upper part of town. We booked our reservations using The Fork and got a free hors d’oeuvres of Cherry Tomato, Mozzarella and Pistachio Cream in a small baked bread cup.
Ristorante Porta Terra – Cefalu, Sicily
The Fountain – Ristorante Porta Terra – Cefalu, Sicily
Ristorante Porta Terra – Cefalu, Sicily
Our Special hors d’oeuvres from The Fork – Cherry Tomato, Mozzarella and Pistachio Cream – Ristorante Porta Terra – Cefalu, Sicily
I ordered a glass of a fine red Sicilian wine called Nero d’Altura. Patti had the breaded tuna with Mango and avocado sauce, and I had the baked cod with a reduction of pinoli nuts, raisins and kalamata olives over mashed potatoes, both of which were delicious. The dinner was a bit on the high side at 71€ for both of us, but the food was worth every cent.
Breaded Tuna with Mango and Avocado sauce – Ristorante Porta Terra – Cefalu, Sicily
Baked cod with a reduction of pinoli nuts, raisins and kalamata olives over mashed potatoes – Ristorante Porta Terra – Cefalu, Sicily
Chocolate cream with red berries and crunchies on top – Ristorante Porta Terra – Cefalu, Sicily
Tiramisu with chocolate crunchies and Marsala wine – Ristorante Porta Terra – Cefalu, Sicily
A Fine Red Sicilian Wine – Nero d’Altura – Ristorante Porta Terra – Cefalu, Sicily
A fine sweet Marsala wine – Ben Rye – Ristorante Porta Terra – Cefalu, Sicily
Situated on the north coast of the autonomous region of Sicily is Palermo, both the capital of the province and of the region itself. It is an ancient city which has been ruled over its long history by many different powers. It was once a nexus for essential trade routes in the Mediterranean Sea.
Via Bara All’Olivella – Palermo, Sicily
We arrived at the Palermo Airport, which is actually not in Palermo, but in Punta Raisi. There are many options one can take in order to get to Palermo, ranging from the train at 6.50€/person, all the way up to private shuttle service starting at 50€/person. Being from a family of railroad workers, I prefer to take a train when possible. Not only is a far cheaper, but in Italy they almost always run on time.
Patti – Punta Raisi Station – Palermo Airport – Sicily, Italy
One last thing, unfortunately our Tickets For Two were electronic, so it does not make sense to show, nor take a photograph of them. Let us just say, we had two tickets on a Ryanair flight from Turin to Palermo at a very reasonable rate.
A Working City
In our contemporary time, I would say the city of Palermo is struggling between its ancient roots, as with many other parts of Italy, and its desire to be modern. This is reflected in many ways as you walk through its narrow alleyways and marbled streets. Some of which are well worn with centuries of wear.
The Streets of Palermo – Sicily, Italy
Via Maqueda outside our hotel – Piazza Massimo – Palermo, Sicily
Via Maqueda – Piazza Massimo – Palermo, Sicily
The Streets of Palermo – Palermo, Sicily
Quattro Canti via Marqueda – Palermo, Sicily
Via Vittorio Emanuelle – Palermo, Sicily
Porta Felice – Palermo, Sicily
Colonna dell’Immacolata – Church of Saint Domenico – Palermo, Sicily
Churches of Palermo
Palermo sports amazing architecture and a church around almost every corner. The Gesu Church and the Palermo Cathedral, may be of particular interest.
Gesu Church – Palermo, Sicily
Palermo Cathedral – Palermo, Sicily
Palermo Cathedral – Palermo, Sicily
Palermo Cathedral – Palermo, Sicily
Baptism Font – Palermo Cathedral – Palermo, Sicily
VIa Matteo Bonello – Palermo Cathedral – Palermo, Sicily
The Massimo Theater
On the other cultural side of things, there is the Massimo Theater. An impressive building that is named after the piazza in which it resides.
Another view of Massimo Theater – Piazza Massimo – Palermo, Sicily
Other Parts of the City
A few other interesting sites include the Porta Nuovo and several parks, one of which has a magnificent example of an Australian Banyan tree. However, there are many site to enjoy while strolling the city streets, sometimes it pays just to get lost, even if your favorite map is uncooperative.
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Hotel Massimo Plaza
Situated in the Piazza Massimo, almost at the start of the pedestrian zone on via Maqueda, was our unassuming hotel, Hotel Massimo Plaza. The staff was very helpful and our breakfast was served in our room, which we often find very helpful, especially when the weather is not cooperating, like it wasn’t on this trip.
Our Hotel – Massimo Plaza Hotel – Piazza Massimo – Palermo, Sicily
Restaurants
In our short stay in Palermo, we found the following restaurants noteworthy. The cuisine of Palermo is typical for a southern Italian port city, most restaurants having plenty of fish and seafood on the menu. However, there are plenty of pizza places and small cafes as well, where one can purchase smaller items for takeout or to eat as they walk.
Ristorante Pizzeria Italia
This restaurant was just around the corner of our hotel and offers authentic and excellent southern Italian pizza. You may see the term pizze in your travels, but do not be deterred, that is just the plural form in Italian for more than one pizza, it’s the same thing.
Ristorante Pizzeria Italia – via Orologio – Palermo, Sicily
We ordered a caprese and a pizza each, I had a glass of wine and we ordered a bottle of water and the bill came to 25€ with 4€ coperto.
Margherita Pizza – Ristorante Pizzeria Italia – via Orologio – Palermo, Sicily
On To Cefalu
After our short stay here, it was on to the real start of our trip, Cefalu. Although there is plenty more to see and do in Palermo, our trip itinerary did not allow us any more time here. So using our senior discount cards, we purchased two more Trenitalia tickets and we were on our way.
Palermo Central Station – Palermo, Sicily
In the event we do return, we plan to stay here longer and perhaps see more of the western portion of the island as well. Aside from the rain, we still had a pretty good time here and enjoyed the city of Palermo for its sites, cuisine and true grit.
In keeping with our travel recommendation about train travel, as opposed to taking a plane, we took the ÖOB Railjet train from Vienna in Austria to Prague in the Czech Republic. We just feel it is a quicker solution for short to medium destinations, when you take into account all the nonsense and preparation you must do to travel by air, which usually takes anywhere from two hours on each end. It just isn’t worth the effort to us for a one hour flight, when if you could use the time to enjoy the countryside or read a good book.
Vienna Hauptbahnhof
On To Prague
Our next destination was Prague, where we are to meet my daughter and son-in-law. We left our hotel and using a taxi reached the main station in Vienna in about fifteen minutes. The main train station in Vienna is a very modern facility and connected to the U1 metro and the D Line of the Tram network, so there are multiple ways to reach it.
The Bucolic Czech Countryside
Of course, the Austrian and Czech Republic countrysides in this area of Europe are very similar, being mostly agricultural, with some natural reserved areas and wooded areas.
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Here are also a few videos I shot while enjoying the ride.
Some Recommendations
Upon reaching Prague, we decided to walk with our luggage to the Imperial Hotel, which is about fifteen minutes from the station. Though it can be done, and we actually did it, I cannot say I advise doing it. The Czech streets, in this area and most walkways in the older part of the city, are paved using a special highly contoured version of Sanpietrini, which is actually very difficult to pull your luggage on. It probably also raises hell with wheels on your luggage. So, a word of caution, what you see on the walkway immediately leaving the train station will last until you reach your hotel. That would be the time to seriously contemplate going back and getting into a taxi. Happy travels!
