Tag: trains

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Brussels, Belgium – Without Sprouts

Aside from the fact that there are only so many fries, waffles and chocolates that one can eat, we have yet come across the fabled brussel sprout in this capitol city. It’s not like we haven’t looked, but like all other things Belgian, it is mysterious, especially when it comes to cuisine, the city’s signature veggie, or better yet, service.

Brussels

The historic city of Brussels proper exists within what the locals call the pentagon, or the inner loop or road that used to contain the city wall. Within it, the visitor will again experience dramatic shifts between old and new, one with which the Belgians have obviously condoned or perhaps accepted through a complacent myopia. The juxtaposition of some of the most modern buildings one will ever see are here, french provincial alongside gothic alongside some post-modern nonesense is common and most striking, if not down right unpleasant.

Getting There

From Gent we took the InterCity train second class from the Sint Pierre Station, since it offered a direct service with a total travel time around thirty-five minutes. Because of the short distance, second class is more than convenient and you don’t have to drag your luggage up a flight a spiral stairs to get to it, what a poor design!

Hotel Warwick

We stayed at the Warwick on Rue Duquesnoy, very close to the train station, so very convenient for travelers. It is a four star and has very good ammenities. Though the bathrooms seem like they could use some care.

Grand Place

The main square in Brussels is the Grand Place. This is where some of the more important historical buildings will be found. It is flanked on the two major sides by the Brussels Town Hall and across from it the Brussels City Museum.

The other two sides have most of the cafes and restaurants with outside seating.

The Kleine Zavelsquare

A rather equisite example of gardening may be found at the Kleine Zavelsquare off the Rue de la Regence and across the street from Notre Dame Of The Victories Sablon. Also known as the Sablon, it is one of the more expensive districts in the city, with a concentration of antique and other dealers owning shops in the area.

Garden Of The Mount Of Arts

Here you will find different buildings and other architectural elements of interest, including a park and other unique buildings.

Other Areas Of The City

Here are some photographs from other parts of the city, to get an idea of what the overall picture looks like in this city.

Churches And Cathedrals

Saint Catherine Catholic Church

The Church of Saint Catherine is a Gothic church with Renaissance and Baroque elements. It clock tower, the Old Saint Catherine’s clock tower is actually a remnant of the former church which was destroyed. The church sports flying buttresses and gargoyles on the outside and shows heavy influences from churches in Paris, France.

The interior has an enormous wooden pulpit, like other churches and cathedrals in Belgium. The nave, aisle and transept are typical and the glass work unassuming.

Notre Dame Of The Victories Sablon

The one church that should be on your itinerary when in Brussels is Notre Dame Of The Victories Sablon. The interior of this church is just breathtaking. The exterior, due to its proximity to the street, is difficult to get a perception of aside from it beautiful typanum at the entrance.

The interior is complete with wooden pulpit and stained glass. Both aisles, the transepts and apse are all decorated with equisite stained glass, the right transept having a beautiful rose window. This church definitely benefitted from all the rich patrons and nobility whos names are strewn throughout the stained glass and on some walls.

Saint Michael And Saint Gudula Cathedral

Further out from the frantic inner core of the city and closer to the train station is Saint Michael’s And Saint Gudula’s Cathedral. Though we were able to take a photograph outside and few quick photographs of the nave inside, mass was being held at the time and we could not walk freely throughout the church as we normally would.

Restaurants

When eating in Belgiun you must be prepared for the highs and the lows, and then in some cases being frustrated beyond your wits. It may even make sense prior to leaving to sign up for one of the many *A (Anonymous) courses or a therapy session in your area, when you return you may need it.

Just as with other cities in Belgium, restaurants in tourist areas in Brussels offer essentially the same items, all for practically the same over-inflated prices. So try to venture further out and you might be rewarded with other cuisine, though this author doubts it; the food will be the same but perhaps at a somewhat cheaper price. For example, for what we call a simple ham and cheese pannini in the States, they call it something fancy “Croque Monsieur” and charge 25€. Lastly, do NOT leave a tip, for anyone, even if you struggle with your decision. The food is expensive enough and they get paid a good wage waiting tables, as is evident by their dismissive attitudes once you have ordered. Some expect it, to which I say, “Yeah, I don’t think so.”

The Blue Restaurant

Suffering from inflated ratings and not too far from our hotel is the Blue Restaurant, a tourist trap with a wide variety of foods to choose from and an over-priced menu. We stopped for lunch, only because we were still unfamiliar with the city and we were hungry. Our dishes were simple and tasted okay, but not worth the expense.

Lloyd Coffee Eatery

Contained within a hotel by the same name, Lloyd is a pretty reasonable place to get a brioche and coffee. The seating is a bit tricky, since they have separate seating for hotel guests and clientel from outside. But once that is figured out the process is rather straightforward and their pancakes are pretty good.

De Pistolei

This is a sandwich shop and perhaps one of the more reasonable places to grab something to eat, if your are on the go, or just to take back to your room. Not sure I would eat-in, we heard they actually charge more, so if you don’t have to, don’t.

The menu has a good mix of sandwiches and panini to choose from, both hot and cold. However, when we tried to order soup, “No sorry, no soup, not winter yet, next week.”, even though winter is not next week. However it remains on the menu anyway during other times of the year, perhaps as a conversation starter? Then we tried to order our sandwiches, the menu states there are two sizes, Pistolet or Baguette; “No sorry, no Pistolet, come back tomorrow.” Often times I wonder if it wouldn’t be easier, just to ask what they do have on the menu and then start from that point and work Belgian Backwards.

Norma Trattoria

The Italian restaurant Norma Trattoria is a good break from the hectic city center and offers a restricted menu of select items. The Scialatielli and Mezze Maniche were both commendable. It is kind of out of the way, located on Rue des Chartreux, but then there no crowds and it was very quiet.

Nüetnigenough

The restaurant named Nüetnigenough, which apparently in a wierd twist of Luxemburgerisch and English (or perhaps flemish), means “Good Night Enough.” This about sums it up, Good Bye, Good Night, Good Riddens Not Good Enough! If you are not a Francophone or Belgian, it is not worth the visit. This is the abode of an angry four-eyed francophone troll who behaves as though you do not exist. Upon entering we where explicitly told to sit at a specific table and when I hung my small backpack on the back of the chair, she exclaimed in her broken faulty terrible english. “For everyone’s safety”, grabbed the bag and shoved it under the bench where my wife was sitting in one swift motion. Never suffering fools, I quickly exclaimed, “Excuse me, you do not touch other people’s property!” Then I asked her to retrieve it immediately, which she did. I then politely asked if putting it on the bench next to my wife was okay. To which she retorted, “Yes, I am NOT SERVING YOU!” She spun around like the witch she is and went back to the kitchen. All my wife could think was, Thank God. For some time we looked at each other perplexed and thought, oh well, should we leave? But we waited and got another waiter who was very professional. We order the Beef Stew and stuck it out.

Conclusion

The interchange in the Belgian restaurant above, with the caveat that it is perhaps owned by Luxemburgers, still of sums up our trip to Belgium. I do not know if it is a government thing, an overall perception of Outsiders, a status thing, or most possibly a francophone thing of just having a nasty, rude, dismissive French/Belgian attitude. All I can say is, it infects everyone here and we have found it to be pervasive. They are just very unpleasant, rude is probably not harsh enough. Not only in Brussels, but throughout the country. We traveled from Dinant, to Brugge, to Gent and finally Brussels and found the same deep seated, vile distaste for outsiders.

My recommendation would be, if you come to visit Belgium, visit Brugge and leave, as quickly as possible. Aside from the fact that there is not much to see in this country to begin with, the people do not want you here, they do not want to interact with you, they do not want your business and therefore should not enjoy any fruits of tourism. I think the affects are already being felt in Dinant which appears to be dying, so be it. Let the EU folk keep them alive. We will not be returning, not even to fly through the godforsaken place! I thought France had an issue with outsiders, Belgium has definitely taken first place in my book.

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Gent, Belgium – Flemish Fascination

At the confluence of the rivers Leie and Scheldt is the city of Gent. However, with such an intricate system of canals, it is difficult to denote a river from a canal when walking the ancient city. It is probably only important to note that the system of waterways enabled the city to trade goods all along the northern European continent. At its economic height, the city became rich and an important trading partner with the Hanseatic League, which more or less ruled trade along that same line of coast.

Gent

The contemporary city of Gent is a confusing mix of old and new. It appears that the citizens of Gent do not make building decisions on historical estetic. Therefore, you will often find modern, boxey and bland buildings next to the older architectures, which are a bit bland in and of themselves, but maintain artistic quality to them the newer buildings lack.

Getting There

From Brugge we took the InterCity train to Dampoort train station, a dismal if almost forgotten stop (from the looks of it) on the Flemish rail system. It is actually interesting to note that it is so forgotten, you must use a phone application to call a taxi or use the bus system, since there is no line of taxis outside waiting to help you with your travels. Hence, from there we walked the twenty-five to thirty minutes with luggage in tow to our hotel in the center of town.

River Leie Waterfront

Cutting through the city is the canal of the Leie River. It separates the Kronenlei and the Graslei, the waterfront houses on either side or banks of the canal.

Ibis Hotel Centrum

Situated right next to the Cathedral of Saint Bavo is the Ibis Hotel Centrum. A step above the Flemish Dinant version. Here you are able to get more towels if you so choose and they offer free water each day. The biggest problem with this hotel is they call it a room, but there isn’t any room, it is VERY small.

Gravensteen – Castle Of The Counts

The Castle of the Counts, from the Counts of Flanders building it, is centrally located on the Lieve where it joins the Leie by the Groetenmarkt. It is a typical medieval fortress which contains the usual battlements, parapets and keep. Almost the entire is reconstructed after it was sold and repurposed for other industrial needs in the city. It was later bought back by the city and turned into a tourist item after much work.

It is however sparsely outfitted with relics or exhibits. There is one room that contains period weaponry that was used during those time. But most of the rooms have sketched wall hangings and in some cases flags adorning the ceiling, but aside from those, no furniture or other trappings. It is therefore advised to purchase the headset and indulge in the one hour walk-through tour of the castle.

Graffiti Street

Another narrow street in another city dedicated to the local fauna getting their adolescent artistic urges out. Though a few examples are extraordinary, most of it was just colorful wasted paint.

Other Sights And Monuments

There are many other sights and monuments throughout the city that speak of the city’s history. For example the old Rabot, or ancient gate to the city.

Churches And Cathedrals

There are two cathedrals in Gent, each one has its unique charm. There are also a number of churches that may also be visited, but times are restricted and you must check the schedules.

Saint Nicholas Church

More in the center of town and off the Korenmarkt is Saint Nicholas’ church of Christmas fame. An obviously underused and underkept church in the vicinity which is mostly grey outside and inside. There are many things boarded up when we visited, though no active renovations appeared to have been started. It is actually quite a shame since this is one of the oldest buildings in the city and one of the oldest churches which was built in the Scheldt Gothic style, which is uncommon.

Saint Bavo’s Cathedral

Saint Bavo’s Cathedral is perched on the small hill just off-center to town and across the street from our hotel. It is of typical cathedral design and has a very interest ambulatory and apse, which of course you have pay to go in and see, don’t underestimate the Belgian clergy on how to make a buck.

Saint Michel’s Cathedral

Located on Leie River and by the eponymous bridge is Saint Michel’s Cathedral. Though practically none of the original cathedral’s interior remains, its reconstruction through the twentieth century completely restored the Gothic elements it once had.

Saint Jacob’s Church

An out of the way church beyond the Vrijdagmarkt is Saint Jacob’s Catholic Church and is an example of French Romanesque style. The interior over time has gone through many other styles, including Gothic and Baroque, only to settle on the neo-Romanesque and neo-Gothic styles we see today.

Restaurants

I still do not know what it is, but restaurants in Belgium are a hit and miss adventure. Never in our travels have we come across three separate towns or cities in any country where you really have no idea what to expect heading out for lunch or dinner. The most common issue is after walking ten minutes to get there you find it is closed and perhaps not just for the evening, it may be closed for good; it’s often hard to tell some times.

So far our experience with food and restaurants in Belgium is: the service is often lacking, the food is okay, cleaniness, the restaurant itself is often closed (especially in the middle of the week, which of course must be due to some other economic force.)

Trattoria Della Mamma

One of the better restaurants in Gent and it is reflected in the price you pay for items on the menu. It has a modern welcoming atmosphere and they are fairly attentive with the service. The food was tasty and the house wine was enjoyable.

Porta Alta

A non-italian Italian restaurant, that is, it serves italian food but is not run by italians. We ate here for lunch and it was okay, nothing to write home about and the price was fair.

Tashun Chinese Restaurant

A restaurant that has seen better days, though the food is freshly made and remains quite enjoyable. It does not seem to be frequented to often and may be suffering from the same malady all restaurants are suffering from, the price of food. I can commend the Pork with Vegetable dish, it was quite tasty because of the pork and made an excellent sauce.

Da Adriano

We wanted pizza and ended up here because our first choice was CLOSED. The waiter wasn’t not happy to see us, since he was the only one waiting tables and they needed to be cleaned. However, after 10 minutes we were seated (we stood by the table waiting for it to be cleaned as he directed.) After that, it was not too bad, we shared a pizza which was good and some wine and had an enjoyable meal. However, we noticed that when people entered, he was very selective about who he seated, not sure what was going on there, but be prepared if you visit this establishment.

Sorelle

An Italian fusion style restaurant is Sorelle, or the sisters, on Onderbergen. A renovated house with an inviting charm and staff, Sorelle has a short menu which is not short on taste. The tomato soup and baked Italian Casserole with vegetables and tagliatelle is very good. Their selection for house red wine was also very good, a clean crisp taste, not sour with a good finish. They of course have other Belgian leaning dishes and desserts for local tastes, if you choose to go that route.

Luxalad Restaurant

A mexican themed restaurant that specializes in salads and other tasty mexican dishes. We came here to get take-out on our last evening in Gent, since we had a rather heavy lunch at Sorelle. So if you are looking for some a bit less expensive you may want to stop here.

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Brugge, Belgium – Venice Of The North

Commonly referred to as the Venice of the North, Brugge, or Bruges (it also goes by many other names), is riddled with canals and hence bridges to get over them. However, its toponym is actually not derived from a french or belgian form for the word ‘bridge’, but rather more likely a Scandinavian word that denoted a quay or jetty.

Brugge

Tucked into the country, not too far from the coast is the small city of Brugge. Connected to the coast by a canal, which has tendrils all through the city, Brugge is a major tourist spot within Belgium and during the summer can get quite busy. The main throng of tourists seems to follow the Dijver canal from the south where there is parking, up to the Market Square and along to the De Burg and its religious attraction.

Getting There

Probably most people use their car, but to the south there is also a place where we discovered the buses park, so that is another often use mode of transportation. We naturally used the train system, which from Dinant required two changes. The last change to Brugge itself was on the InterCity (IC) line and accommodates both first and second classes, though in a rather strange way. In case, we arrived at the main train station in Brugge, which oddly enough no longer has a functioning main entrance, so you must use the side entrance to the left.

It should be noted that in Belgium, cars marked with a 1 with a 2 below it, indicate the train has first class upstairs and second class below. Others with just a 2 indicate second class only. Still others that appear old and with no markings indicate no ammenities, not even air conditioning. We found this out the hard way, not knowing signage. Luckily the seats were very comfortable and it wasn’t too warm, though I wouldn’t like to repeat the experiment.

Hotel Martin’s Relais

We stayed at a boutique hotel to the north east of the old town and on one of the canals. The hotel Martin’s Relais is a quaint and quiet retreat from the city, though the area in and around it are actually not that noisy. The service is of course first rate and the rooms are cosy and very comfortable, especially the air-conditioning on a warm day.

However, everything in Belgium comes with a strange Belgian twist. We could not determine the function of the door signs until we went to the desk to get our confusion cleared up. Perhaps it was somewhere lost in translation, but one says, “Thank You” in green and the other “Please” in red. You too should not get caught up in trying to figure out why they use Please and Thank You, the conotations are endless and it will just end up hurting your head. They actually tried to explain it to me and I just got more confused. The key is the color, green to enter and do the room up, red do not enter.

Churches And Cathedrals

There of course plenty of Catholic churches in Brugge. However, they all appear to be keen on making money and not very welcoming otherwise.

Basilica Of The Holy Blood

The Basilica of the Holy Blood is a small church stuck in the corner Der Burg plaza and next to City Hall. It is nice inside, but there are better examples of basilicas in other countries. Again, the interior and the establishment seems more keen on taking in as much money as possible, even though entry to the church is free.

To see the holy blood, which frankly cannot be the blood of Christ since there is no scientific way it could have survived two thousand years. Like the Shroud of Turin, someone is pulling another fast one on the faithful in order to make money. So, in order to see it, there is a long procession up a small dias. It is contained in a small glass cylinder, ostensibly blood on a rag containing his blood. You look at it, and then they expect a ‘contribution’. Luckily the red velure rope was put across the stairwell before we got there and we didn’t have to make the decision whether to see it or not.

Canals And Bridges

There are 54 bridges that span the network of canals that invade Brugge. Walking along any one of the canals one would normally come across a bridge within a kilometer. Most are strategically located and about half of them support cars and trucks, even in the center of town. Those that are pedestrian only are obvious.

Gates And Town Portals

The city has several gates around the city, though vestiges of the old city wall are difficult to find.

Windmills

There are a number of windmills that can be seen in Brugge. Most of the ones that we saw were on the north east side of the city along the Kruisvest. At the time, only one was outfitted and functioning. However, it has been noted that all of them are still serviceable. All of them are named!

Great Market Place

The Markt, or Great Market Place, is the center of attraction and noteworthy for the Belfry. The Belfry tower is rather large for the space and for a fee may be ascended. We chose not to, even though the eponymous movie made in 2008 almost beckons one to ascend the stairs.

Restaurants

We made reservations at a few restaurants prior to our arrival, though in both cases they probably weren’t necessary. In most cases you should have no problem finding a place to eat. Wether you will like it or not, well that’s another matter.

@Tattie’s

Don’t let the name @Tatties confuse you, it’s a small coffee and breakfast place with an attitude. These women know how to run a business, and in Belgium too! Not only did they sit us before they were actually opened, they also took our order and served us faster than most places in the States! Not only is the service here great, the food is modestly priced, they have an excellent menu for breakfast and the food is delicious. Highly recommended.

Willa Bruch & Coffee Shop

Another great place for breakfast is Willa’s. Though not punctual as Tatties, they open at 9AM and probably won’t seat or take your order until five or ten after. However, once they do get going the staff is pretty good. The food and prices are also in line with Tatties, though they serve a stack of pancakes, with a sunnyside egg and bacon strips on top that is difficult to beat.

Bella Italia Ristorante

When in doubt, go Italian. This was one of the few restaurants in Belgium which actually had good food and good service. We went here more than once and tried different items on the menu, they actually have five different salads to choose from on their menu. The pita pizza as a side bread basket for ten euroes is worth every penny. It is thin, crunchy on the sides and sprinkled with parsley and olive oil, a great addition to a salad for lunch.

Trattoria Murano

Another italian restaurant, though not as good as Bella Italia, is this trattoria. Here we both had the pasta which was tasty. We just found the poor lady that was serving everyone in need of help, so service was not as punctual as expected, though in line with what we have seen throughout Belgium.

Restaurant Diligence

This place is more like an upscale bar that serves food. The menu is all over the place, but if you stare long enough you will find something to order. The beef stew was good, though I went with the rice option instead of the typical fries option. Again, expect service here to be a bit slow, though not terribly so.

Casa Di Kaspi

The Case di Kaspi was one of those restaurants we actually reserved a place for lunch, though in retrospect it wasn’t necessary. They serve Italian cuisine and for the most part it was okay. Though for the price I would think you could get the same thing at Bella Italia for less, see the menu below. The service was typical of other Belgian restaurants, a bit slow and unattentive.

Frituur de Gentpoorte

Upon many recommendations we were told that the French Fries, or just Fries or Frituur in Belgium, are a must experience. So, we chose one of the more ostensibly good places that people rave about on the internet and went to Frituur de Gentpoorte.

We purchased the small (klein) take-away basket of fries with no sauces, since we thought that if their fries are so good they don’t need sauce. We were WRONG. They are actually not that great, at least not without the sauce they sell, cost: 1-2€ for one of those small little plastic containers. So, the deal really is, they are actually not selling fries, but sauce. The potatoes in the States have them beat by far (think Five Guys Cut Fries). Though it is cheap and filling, you probably will regret later when all those carbs settle in and give you a stomach ache. We threw half our basket out. However, if you are so inclined, Enjoy!

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Dinant, Belgium – Abbey Normal

After a number of other trips this year we finally decided to visit Belgium for two weeks. The weather in Turin has been abnormally hot and humid since early June and like our trip to Poland, we were looking for some respite. Unfortunately, not only did we find the weather a bit abnormal, but a few other things as well.

Dinant

The town of Dinant is a small town located about an hour and a half to two hours away from Brussels to the south east. It borders the Ardennes Forest and has been historically important in the last two world wars.

Getting There

From Turin we flew RyanAir directly to Charleroi Airport near Brussels, Belgium, a flight that took a little less than an hour and a half.

Points Of Interest

The town of Dinant is a bit strange to say the least. Though we arrived on a Tuesday, the town appeared to be the center of activity. Then a little after four o’clock in the afternoon, almost everyone was gone. Of course we put this down to day-trippers who happen to drive or bus in on one particular day, stay for a few hours and leave. This wasn’t the only reason.

The town suffers from macro-economic forces it has no control over. It is underpopulated and young people are going to the larger cities to find employment. This has caused a housing issue and we found a lot of houses for sale here, which has had its own affect on the local economy. Not only was it difficult to find some places open, if was very difficult to find a place to eat on some occasions. So one has to remain flexible when visiting this tiny town that is stretched thin along the banks of the Meuse River and in other ways as well.

We can reinforce our opinion in the fact that we stayed in Dinant for three days, where frankly only one is necessary, or perhaps even a few hours. Though this gave us a better feel for the conditions there, it also gave us a rather poor opinion of the town. Sincerely, there are a few things, the fortress, the Bayard rock and the Church, but that is just about it.

Ibis Hotel

Our hotel was the Ibis Centre along the Winston Churchill Avenue. We found it dated, the rooms on the smaller than small side and the ammenities lacking, we only got a bath towel each, no hand towels nor wash clothes (which are like finding a unicorn in Europe.) The cleaning service was excellent and was perhaps the only good thing about the hotel. Though labeled a three star hotel it is more like two and a half stars, or a motel that you would find in a dusty old town in the States.

Collegiate Church of Our Lady of Dinant

The Collegiate Church of Our Lady of Dinant actually has some impressive stained glass. It has the form of a cathedral, but without the grandiosity required for such a structure.

Only one apse has a window, the other is covered up and opaque. The rest of the interior is rather simple and unobtrusive.

Fortress Citadel of Dinant

Purposefully commanding a view of the entire town and Meuse Valley is the Fortress Citadel of Dinant. It is perched on one side of the plateau where an outcropping of rock supports its impressive mass.

After purchasing a ticket there are 408 steps to climb. The first flight is a bit more challenging than the upper tier, since they are more uneven and spaced a bit differently, worn with age and cracked from the stress of movement underneath.

Once the top is reached, there is a main entrance to pass through that opens up into the central courtyard. Off of this courtyard are a cafe, public toilets, open-air museum display and the entrance to the museum proper.

Citadel Museum

The museum of the citadel has a collection of artifacts and other exhibits related to the history of the structure. Some of them are interactive and intended for young audiences. Other parts one can walk through to reach the outside portion of the museum and other entrance to the museum that sits atop the outcropping. There is a great example of a large anti-aircraft gun and old jet airplane, as well as to beautiful view of the town below.

There is also a tricky little tilted room at the end of the walk-through that is rather intriguing. Since all of the normal surfaces are tilted at an angle, your visual perception of what is up gets messed up. After a short while it could definitely give someone motion sickness, if they are prone to that sort of thing.

Leffe Abbey Brewery

From our hotel the Leffe Abbey Brewery was located directly across the valley from us. After a twenty minute walk along the river and over the Charles de Gaulle bridge, the brewery is a short walk up the hill on the other side.

The brewery has a small museum explaining the history of the structure and the monks that had started the tradition of brewing beer.

The tour included a beer tasting and some free glasses.

Rocher Bayard Walk

A fifteen minute walk down the river promenade from our hotel was the Bayard Rock. Apparently split in two by the soldiers of Louis XIV, who conquered the town in order to build a road. Of course, there is also a fictious account of how it was split by the hoof of a horse carrying four sons who were fleeing Charlemagne through the Ardennes Forest.

Today if you hold your head up far enough you will notice how the rock on the top has been fortified and strengthened through the use of steel bands and rods that have been inserted into the rocks.

Freyer River Cruise

There are two cruises that are offered, a forty-five minute and a two hour. We chose the latter and spent most of our time in the Meuse river lock system, which honestly is perhaps the most interesting part of this trip.

Honestly, the length of river that goes to the Freyer Chateau is not very interesting at all, as is the chateau. There are some interesting rock formations in the portion of the river system, but aside from that, it was rather uninteresting.

Restaurants

The restaurants in Dinant a frustrating to say the least, not worth the effort to say the most. Frankly, if the option was open to me I would have gone to the grocery store and bought food and prepared my own meals. The best by far was the Chinese restaurant below. More than one restaurant that we tried to go to was either not open on the day, were supposed to be open but weren’t, or were closed for good, even though their online presences said they were still in business.

L’Inattendu

A very small breakfast place that is uncommonly open when you expect a breakfast place to be open (though not necessarily in Belgium), L’Inattendu is there to serve. We found the food very good and there is enough on the menu to satisfy most people. We went here several times just because the options are limited in this town and the crepes are really good.

Le Cerf Vert

The Le Cerf Vert, or green stag, is one of the few places that is open for lunch that is worth a visit. Though the service is terrible, the food is not bad. I can commend the Tarbaise Casserole.

Le Pavillion de Hong Kong

The Le Pavillion de Hong Kong is a Chinese restaurant and became our go-to place in a town where the restaurants simply do now want to open.

Conclusion

Personally I would not commend Dinant as a destination, unless you truly want to waste your time or have nothing else to do. This happens sometimes. Frankly there are far more interesting places to visit than this town. If you are passing through the area, it’s worth a short stop. But aside from that, it is only a strategic military point between some countries in Europe.

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Gdańsk, Poland – Hanseatic Harbor

With a choice between visiting Warsaw or Gdańsk, we chose Gdańsk because it had more historical meaning and promised a quainter historic center. Moreover, since we were doing a south to north kind of trip, it was the last stop on our itinerary, so smaller is usually less complicated and less demanding.

Gdańsk

Formerly known as Danzig, Gdańsk is a seaside city on the Baltic coast of Poland. Though the old city lies in the delta of the Motlawa River, it is still some five kilometers from the sea. It has switched back and forth from Polish rules, German, Russian and as a free-state. In the middle ages, it was once part of the Haneastic League and was a major trading partner in that confederation.

Getting There

From Wrocław, Gdańsk is over a four hour train trip using the InterCity train system. Though the InterCity trains do not stop too often, there is still considerable distance between the two cities and even with an automobile it is a long drive. We were fortunate enough to have a very talkative couple that were Canadian-Polish dual citizens and have a very nice chat with them along the way, which thankfully seemed to have made the trip go faster.

Motlawa River

Along the Motlawa River on both sides are rows of buildings. Many were old warehouses, shops, fish mongers and other establishments, when the city was an active seaport. Today it is mostly restaurants, shops and hotels.

Old Port Crane

One of the major attactions is the Old Port Crane, also known as the Gdańsk Crane, actually has an unknown origin. Though ostensibly built to convey things from ships portside into the city over the surrounding wall its actual purpose remains a mystery. It burnt down once and was restored, only to be partially destroyed during the end of World War II and rebuilt in the 1960s as a historical piece and museum.

Długa Street

Also known as Long Lane, or Langgasse, Długa Street is where you will find many of the notable houses that adorn the old town, as well as the Town Hall and Neptune’s Fountain.

It is bounded by the Green Gate on the end by the river, and the Golden Gate, which is near the former main entrance to the town, including its barbican and Highland Gate.

Mariacka Street

Parallel to Long Lane is Mariacka Street, an unusual sort of street due to its narrowness and odd balustrades on the stoops of each of the houses that line the street.

Each balustrade was made unique so that the owner could identify his building when the river overflowed it’s banks. Most of the houses here are also quaintly decorated, though many have fallen into disrepair over the years.

Raduni Canal

Another interesting place to visit is the area around the Raduni Canal. This is located on the other side of the basilica and Roman Keller.

Gates And More Gates

There are many gates in the old town, however most of the surviving ones still face the river.

The Highland and Golden Gates are on the land side of the city and were connected to a great wall that surrounded it at one time. Here you will find one of the walls two barbicans attached to the Torture Gate or house. This gate doubled as a prison and became known for tortures that were carried out in its cellars.

Churches And Cathedrals

Saint Mary’s Basilica

Situated almost in the center of town and on one end of Mariacka Street is Saint Mary’s Basilica. A brick gothic cathedral from the fourteenth century that has a working clock on its left side above the apse’s rear window which still appeared to maintain good time.

The church has an amazing organ and stained glass window in its transept. Though it is evident by the used mobile organ, the installed older one may no longer be in working order.

The church has a very interesting working astronomical clock and calendar along the interior left apse. According to records it not only computes most astronomical seasonal events, but also liturgical events and their timing.

Lastly, this basilica is rather plain and therefore many of the epitaphs and memorials stick out prominently. Most have German inscriptions on them, owing to the city rich heritage, though many are also written in Latin.

Restaurants

Yang Guang Chinese Restaurant

If you go through the Green Gate and cross the bridge then walk a few steps down Stągiewna Street you will find Yang Guang Chinese Restaurant on your right. If you are tired of all the meat, potatoes and dumplings you have been eating up until now, this is a very good stop for some vegetables. The even have broccoli in garlic sauce, one of our favorites.

Sempre Ristorante

The Sempre Ristorante is near the tip of the small island on the other side of the river. It is a modern Italian restaurant that serves good food with an upscale slant on the recipes and the prices. You won’t go wrong eating here, but you will also pay for it, if you know what I mean.

Tygle Restaurant

A highly rated restaurant with excellent Polish food is Tygle. Here you will find some classics as well as some new takes on Polish cuisine. If you are a chocolate lover, the urchin dessert is a must try. But be careful, those spikes are dark chocolate and will cause real damage to your diet.

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Wrocław, Poland – City Of Gnomes

Aside from its old Germanic name of Breslau and its temporary occupation by the Soviets, Wrocław looks and feels completely Polish today. Though not as pretty or well kept as its southern cousin Kraków, it is still a nice city to visit for a few days.

Wrocław

Situated on the river Oder, Wrocław is today an odd mix of old, new and unfinished. We were actually quite surprised at how often we came up parcels in the city that were either unimproved or totally abandoned. That coupled with the weather, which for us turned rainy, made for a lasting impression of it being a dreary place if it so wished.

Fortunately we had enough good weather, however changeable it was, to tour the entire city and enjoy it. We especially enjoyed the area around the Wrocław Cathedral and would commend you visit there if you have a half day to spare.

Getting There

The easiest way to get to Wrocław from Kraków is either by car, bus or train. Since we try to use trains when we can, we took the inter-city train which took about there and a half hours to travel the distance.

Gnomes Everywhere

In fact, there are over a thousand of these little bronze statues placed throughout the city. It is a great idea, the children love them and families can actually purchase or download and print off a map with the location of all of them. Finding them, of course, is still the tricky part, since it is not always obvious where they are exactly.

Rynek Square

The main square in town is the Rynek. It is rather large but contains a number of buildings, as well as the town hall, in a misaligned fashion within the square or plaza itself. It is full a gnomes, so be careful to look while you walk, or you may miss one.

Solny Square

Solny Square or plaza lies corner to corner with Rynek, since the are adjoined to one another on one of the vertices. Here you will find a small flower market which appears to be open every day. Again there are plenty of gnomes to find here, as well as some interesting monuments and sculptures.

Oder River

A portion of the Oder cuts through the city and bisects it. Here you can find a river cruise or tour, as well as magnifacent parks to stretch your legs. There are also plenty of museums in there area. One of particular note and worth a visit is the Panoramic Museum.

Panorama Racławice Museum

The museum provides a panorama of the Battle of Racławice which occurred in 1794 against the Russians. A branch of the National Museum in Wrocław, the museum is housed in a rotunda with a 360 degree canvas, as well as additional dioramatic accessory in the foreground, to give the visitor the feeling of what it might have been like during the battle.

It is a guided tour and language modules are provided so that everyone can enjoy the story of the battle as they move around the theater.

Church And Cathedrals

In this city you will find less churches, they are not as abundant as in Kraków. However, the ones you can visit and just as beautiful.

Wrocław Cathedral

Located across the Oder via the Sand and Tumski bridges, the Wrocław Cathedral has beautiful stained glass windows inside. They only adorn one side, since the windows on the other side are obfuscated by an adjoining structure, which in and of itself I found very odd.

Cathedral Saint Mary Magdelena

The Cathedral Saint Mary Magdelena is the one church where we paid for entrance, so that we could ascend the tower and view the city from the Penitent Bridge.

Restaurants

In Wrocław we decided to scale back on the amount of Polish food we would consume, since it is very rich and calory laden.

Konspira

The exception to the above remark was Konspira. A highly rated restaurant on Polish cusine and an interesting theme, the fight against the Soviets and communism.

The traditional Chicken Broth soup was amazingly light and delicious. I can also commend the ribs with horseradish, they were very tasty.

Wiatr Chinese Restaurant

A break away from the traditional food here, we chose to eat Chinese for lunch. The food here is very good and less filling, it is also a bit lighter on your wallet. We found it a good choice for food and speedy service.

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Modena, Italy – Home Of Balsamic

Known for balsamic vinegar, it also has a variety of other things to see and enjoy. Though we both couldn’t see spending more than a day here, unless of course the purpose is using it as a homebase for day trips elsewhere. The irony of it all is, you would think we would have at least tried balsamic while we were here, we did not.

Modena

Famously known for balsamic, Modena contains a few other points of interest, it twelfth century cathedral, as well as its own leaning tower. It has a market place, similar to other Italian towns and cities, which is actually inside for the most part and appears to function every day. The main street for shopping is most likely via Emilia Centro, it has porticos on one side and appears to have all the brand name shop one would expect to see.

Getting There

Thirty to forty minutes from Parma by train, Modena can be reached with only a few stops along the way for the regional train, or one stop if the InterCity train is used as an option. The train station in Modena and spartan and clean, as well as the neighborhood around it.

Comunale Palazzo

A civic building known as the Comunale Palazzo, was used in the past by the town council for official business and ceremonies. Outside and to the left of it, is the Preda Ringadora, a large piece of marble from Roman times used as a speaker’s platform; its present day means to “orate”. However, historians also say it was likely used as a pillory and also used to identify corpses which were laid out on it. In any case, it is commonly used today as a seat and a place of repose.

It is open and free to the public and has a handful of rooms that may be visited, which contain frescoes.

The palazzo is best known for its Hall of Fire. It is a term of endearment, assigned to it by the public to indicate that it was the hall containing the fireplace where back in the day, they could collect hot coals to warm themselves on the street during cold winter evenings. However, it is better known for the paintings that adorn the ceiling and walls that are the most impressive. Painted in the middle sixteenth century by Nicolò dell’Abate which depict episodes in Roman history that affected Modena as a town and city.

The Council Hall is where meetings would be held with respect to the town’s business. Electors would assemble here to discuss important matters of the day, planning and other administrative tasks.

There are also a Tapestry and a Wedding Hall. Neither is of any great import, except for the paintings that adorn each.

At the back entrance to the palazzo is a statue of Perseus holding the severed head of Medusa.  It can be seen directly by way of the back entrance stairwell. Or, when the back entrance doors are open, it can be seen from the street  flanked on either side by old maps of Modena.

Civic Tower

Located adjacent to the cathedral is the Civic Tower. Yes, the Civic Tower leans and not by a little, a lot. Comparable to those leaning towers in Bologna and Pisa it’s not that impressive, but it is very noticeable when judged from a distance, using other buildings as a reference.

Cathedrals and Churches

Cathedral of Modena

The Cathedral of Modena, or precisely Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption and Saint Geminianus[1]Saint Germinianus is Modena’s patron saint and who’s tomb, dating back to the fifth century, was part of one of the original churches erected on the same site., or colloquially and affectionately known as Il Duomo as in other Italian towns and cities. The main entrance has several tympanums above each door, depicting the biblical stories of Adam and Eve.

From outside it appears to have been rebuilt several times, many of the blocks that make up the facade of the structure do not match in many places. Though odd, the outside follows typical Romanesque architecture, with semi-circular arches that are filled in with brick and other appointments, with the exception of the large Piazza Portal on the north side, which almost functions as the main entrance.

The cathedral lacks a dome, instead having parapets on each of the four corners. It is sectioned in four places, reveals at the roof level as wall extending upwards, which coincide with the four internal arches for the nave. The inside is rather plain and mainly composed of bare brick. At the time we were there, a service was being held, limiting our ability to take more photographs.

Restaurants

For our day trip, we ate at a local place right off the Piazza Grande which promised to have good food at a fair price.

Enoteca Al Duomo

We ate lunch here on recommendations that we read online. Our seating was inside, since the temperature outside was starting to become a bit annoying. The food and service were good and we spent an enjoyable hour discussing Modena and what else, if anything, there was to see in the city.

Il Pilotta

Located in our hotel, Hotel Stendhal in Parma, we enjoyed our last meal in the area at La Pilotta. The Cappelletti is broth is common for this area and can be commended. Our main dishes were Italian in general and good, though I did not care for the stuffing in the pork tip. The menu said it was potato, but it tasted more like a polenta or some other grain and it had an odd taste for me.

References

References
↑1 Saint Germinianus is Modena’s patron saint and who’s tomb, dating back to the fifth century, was part of one of the original churches erected on the same site.
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Reggio Calabria, Italy – Calabrian Classic

If anyone travels all the way down to the very tip of Italy they will discover Reggio Calabria, a Calabrian city with all the classic touches of Southern Italy. Offshore, you will see the ever present Mount Etna smoking in the background.

Getting There And Back

To get there we took TrennItalia’s Calabrian Regional train service from Tropea. Approximately a two hour train ride that eventually hugs the coast and offers a preview of the Italian island of Sicily.

To get back we used Reggio Calabria’s airport, where RyanAir offers direct service to Turin’s Caselle Airport. Another trip just short of two hours which also hugs the coast of Italy and also offers views of Sardinia and other prominent points of interest from the air.

Reggio Calabria

The official name for the city is Reggio Calabria, but it is also known by its traditional names of Reggio di Calabria and just plain Reggio. The city was almost completely destroyed by an earthquake in the beginning of the last century and its more hopefully robust version has new amenities the former city lacked.

If you love food, visit the shops along Corso Garibaldi. Many have interesting and local foods that you can bring home with you to enjoy, while you reminisce about your time in Calabria.

Just up from our hotel and on the transformed via Giudecca street, is the eponymous stairway.

Torrine Hotel

On the edge of the older and more vibrant part of the city, the Torrine Hotel is about four blocks from the waterfront. This is just as well, since it provides a quieter place to stay, with the exception being rush hour; it is located on a busy one-way thoroughfare through the city that buses frequent. Our room came with breakfast, a mixture of continental with some warm food thrown in.

Lungomare

The city has an extensive waterfront and a beautiful Lungomare to go with it. Near the end of it, in the urban park, you will find a nice long sign with the city’s name where you can take memorable photographs.

There are several points of interest along the boardwalk and a leisurely stroll along it will eventually bring you to all of them.

Somewhere near the end, down by the Roman Baths, Patti found the Big Bench. Apparently just installed, since it had no placename on it yet.

Monumento Della Vittoria

From our hotel on Via Giula, almost directly down the street and on the waterfront and Lungomare, is the Monumento della Vittoria. It is a monument erected for Italy’s World War I victory and Victor Emmanuele III, which also has replica of the Statue of Athena Promachos inside it.

Roman Baths

Along the Lungomare is a site of old Roman baths from antiquity.

Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo

A large cathedral in the Piazza Duomo is the Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo. It was partially destroyed in the 1908 earthquake and rebuilt with a fusion of Romanesque and Gothic styles.

The most interesting interior element of the cathedral is its ceiling. A timbered edifice that is remarqued and painted in a most interesting style, including pagan elements which appear to be handpainted.

Castello Aragonese

The Castle Aragonese no longer functions as a castle and has been renovated into something more useful, an art museum. Here for a small fee you are able to enjoy two galleries, one in each tower.

North Tower Gallery

During our visit this gallery had an exhibit of modern paintings, most of which bright colors were used in an almost three dimensional approach.

South Tower Gallery

While we were visiting this tower housed a collection of art known as Voci senza Volto, or Voices without a Face. An effective and provocitive collection of art, which appears part surreal and part dystopian and gets the viewer to think about signs of struggle, longing and hardship. This was the high point of the trip for me.

Villas And Palazzos

There are a few villas and palazzos of import in the city.

Villa Genoese Zerbi

A beautiful Venetian Art Nouveau style building on the Corso Emanuele is the villa of Genoese Zerbi. The original was destroyed in the great quake, but it was completely restored and now is one of the main charms of the city.

Palazzos Spinelli and Giuffrè

These two palazzos are side by side on the Corso Emanuele by the waterfront. Both appear to need some work. Palazzo Spinelli offers a great example of Calabrian architecture and Art Nouveau, or the liberty style.

Palazzo Giuffrè on the other hand offers a more mundane example, and is reminiscent of other buildings you will find in other large Italian cities.

Restaurants

Drogheria Culinaria

Using its former name for the grocery store the family used to own, it now serves food and drinks. It has a decent wine list, with several good varietals by the glass.

The food is also pretty good and you will definitely be able to find something to slake your appetite at this establishment.

Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante

One of the restaurants in the area that is highly recommended for local Calabrian dishes is the Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante. Located on via Reggio Campi and via II Dezembre, this small little restaurants attacts all the locals, so have your reservation in hand before leaving your hotel or place of stay.

Everything we tried had that home cooking taste without any loss to attention to detail. The Stufato is highly recommended and will melt in your mouth.

While we were there a local class was having their end of year party, so noise levels were through the roof. However, it was still enjoyable, especially watching the children eating all that food. Made me remember how hungry I used to be as a school kid.

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Tropea, Italy – Onions Anyone?

A destination for tourists and those interested in southern Italian cuisine, a stop in Tropea is almost a must. Known for their mixture of Sicilian and Greek influences, this part of Calabria is famous for the Tropean Red Onion, or Cipolla Rossa, one of the most tasty onions in the world. Onions anyone?

Getting There

In order to get to Tropea from Sapri we had to take the InterCity train from Sapri to Lamezia Terme Centrale and then connect. Unfortunately there is no logistical way around it. From there we took the local TrennItalia Regional train service to Tropea. This gave us a two and a half hour layover in Lamezia Terme, just enough time for lunch!

Lamezia Terme

Other than connecting with our other train, there was no other reason to visit this place, that is, other than lunch! With two and a half hours layover, we had plenty of time.

Restaurants

Europa da Albano

While we were on our InterCity train, I took the liberty of researching what our options were at Lamezia Terme. There weren’t many, but this restaurant and pizzeria caught my eye. It was a good choice. It was very busy inside and out and packed with local people, which is actually a good sign. Though we waited a bit to order, the wait was not bad in the end and our drinks and food arrived within customary promptness.

Tropea

Unknown to us, Tropea is a very busy tourist destination and we were there on a weekend, so the crowds we experienced were kind of unexpected, especially for this time of year.

One of the main squares or piazzas close to our hotel, was the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, which our street ran right into, if you walked far enough. It has plenty of seating and a few monuments amongst the trees that have been planted to provide some shade against the sun.

From there the main street in town is the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, which turns into Via Stazione as one gets closer to the train station.

Hotel Colomba D’Oro

In Tropea we stayed at a hotel between the old part of town and the train station. It was just as well, our hotel in the city was the Hotel Colomba D’Oro on via Vittorio Veneto and it proved to be quiet and very comfortable. Our room came with a free morning continental breakfast, which included cooked eggs, pancetta and other warm offerings.

Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania

The twelfth century cathedral of Saint Mary of Romania is on Largo Duomo. The interior houses guilt altar for the Virgin of Romania and the Black Crucifix of 1600.

Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea

On the presque-isle of Tropea, which is actually to an island than a peninsula, stands the Sanctuary of Santa Maria. In order to get there one has to climb down from the city and ascend the stairs to the sanctuary, which opens around ten in the morning. It is best to get their at opening, because as we where leaving throngs of people appeared and the inside of the chapel is quite tiny.

The entrance to the sanctuary is adorned by three painted cielings.

The interior is actually quite small and fitted out with pews, an altar and other accoutrements of catholicism. There is also a small shop where you can by a keepsake, postcards or other memorabilia.

There are a few vantage points in which to take photographs of the surrounding coast and beach, as well as the city of Tropea perched on its cliff.

Belvedere Gardens

An adjunct to the sanctuary are the Belvedere Gardens, access to which is controlled by entry to the chapel. The gardens command a view of the coastline and with perfect weather equally good photographs of it.

There are a variety of trees in the garden, as well as other bushes and flowering plants. In the day it must have been an amazing place to repose and enjoy the day.

Via Lungo Mare

Though the walk along the Lungomare in Tropea is not the best we have been on, it is a nice walk that can bring you back up on the other side of Tropea. It also provides access to the sandy beach that enjoys protection from the wind and the waves and appears to be a favorite for the locals.

Nasocchio – The Apotropian Mask

Walking though the town a visitor will occasionally notice a mask that almost looks like a caricature. The closest analog we have in the States are caricature artists that frequent fairs and draw your face with a pencil in a very stylized way. Well, these masks are specific to the Calabrian culture.

Nasocchio as he is called in Calabrian culture is a mask whose strange and unique glare is supposed to frighten away evil spirits, or what is commonly termed here the Malocchio or Evil Eye. The Italian Horn is meant to function in the same way, as are other strange artifacts in the culture. They are also meant to bring good fortune with their use.

Restaurants

Though we stayed here only for two nights, we still had occasion to visit three restaurants, all of which offered local Calabrian or Sicilian dishes.

Royal Bar

Not known for their food, we bought some drinks here for a quick rest. Nothing special, but the drinks were okay.

Diamante Rosso Tropea Ristorante

Here we had to try to local al ragu Arancini, or Sicilian breaded and conically shaped stuffed rice balls that are deep-fried. They were amazing, but usually always good, depending where you buy and how they are made. They can actually be purchased at most good local stores, cafes and some marketplaces and quickly heated up for a snack or meal.

Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante

At Le Volpe we ordered a pasta dish each and dessert. The Filey was freshly made and topped with Tropean Onions, which are deliciously sweet, when they are sautéed until they have that glassy look.

Palazzo Teotino Ristorante

This restaurant is housed in an old palazzo and has both indoor and outdoor seating. We sat indoor right in the foyer next to the stairwell. We came here for the Tropean Onion soup that they advertize and found it very rich and tasty. We can also commend the fried onion floret, you get about four when you order them, so enough to share.

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Sapri, Italy – Sunny Interlude

After our week in Naples where we took several days to visit the Amalfi Coast, we headed further south and stopped in Sapri. This was a scheduled visit to break up the trip and offer us a sunny interlude and a bit of repose before continuing to Tropea and later Reggio Calabria.

Sapri

Sapri is a small Italian town that is dominated by its stony beach. While there it was fairly vacant and deviod of other tourists. But there were plenty of restaurants open and we did enjoy that relaxing atmosphere and food.

The town itself is nothing to look at, but there are a few spots of interest, all of which were along the coastal area. Situated in the Gulf of Policastro it is surrounded by hills on all three sides. Luckily the train station is a short ten minute walk to and from the beach.

Getting There

There are several trains that run between Naples and Sapri. Perhaps the most convenient one will be the local, which stops at several points, but offers a bit more flexibility.

Our Hotel

We stayed at the Hotel Pisacane, a small botique style hotel right on the beach. Unfortunately with the exception of breakfast, the restaurant is closed until tourist season which starts in June. Luckily, that did not turn into an issue for us.

The Observatory

A very tall structure overlooking the Gulf of Policastro. It appears to celebrate eight renowned Italian scientist from astronomy, radio and meterology. It is located on the northern part of the beach, close to the Roman Villa Ruins.

Roman Villa Ruins

Partially perserved under a canopy, the Roman Villa ruins are also north of town and located close to the observatory. The observatory also has some roman ruins near it that appear to be an old roman cellar or other structure.

Restaurants

While in Sapri we ate at two good restaurants that were noteworthy. Both of which were for a late lunch. We prefer most of the time to eat a heavier lunch and just skip dinner altogether.

Tintobrace Ristorante

An upscale restaurant that offers Calabrian food and fine selection of local wines by the glass. I would recommend the Cacio and Pepe spaghetti.

Ristorante Lucifero

The Ristorante Lucifero is also a pizzeria and has great pizza and pasta specials. It is located in town and not on the beach and is a bit difficult to spot. Therefore, they have added signs along the way to assist.

I can commend the Aglianico from Paestum, Italy. Luigi Maffini’s Klèos comes in 50cl bottles and pairs perfectly with pasta and other tomato based dishes. I love Aglianico, it is a deep, clear, ruby wine with hints of plum, berry and dark fruit and is very tasty.