Gdańsk, Poland – Hanseatic Harbor

With a choice between visiting Warsaw or Gdańsk, we chose Gdańsk because it had more historical meaning and promised a quainter historic center. Moreover, since we were doing a south to north kind of trip, it was the last stop on our itinerary, so smaller is usually less complicated and less demanding.

Gdańsk

Formerly known as Danzig, Gdańsk is a seaside city on the Baltic coast of Poland. Though the old city lies in the delta of the Motlawa River, it is still some five kilometers from the sea. It has switched back and forth from Polish rules, German, Russian and as a free-state. In the middle ages, it was once part of the Haneastic League and was a major trading partner in that confederation.

Getting There

From Wrocław, Gdańsk is over a four hour train trip using the InterCity train system. Though the InterCity trains do not stop too often, there is still considerable distance between the two cities and even with an automobile it is a long drive. We were fortunate enough to have a very talkative couple that were Canadian-Polish dual citizens and have a very nice chat with them along the way, which thankfully seemed to have made the trip go faster.

Setting up for St. Dominic’s Fair – Gdańsk, Poland

Motlawa River

Along the Motlawa River on both sides are rows of buildings. Many were old warehouses, shops, fish mongers and other establishments, when the city was an active seaport. Today it is mostly restaurants, shops and hotels.

Boardwalk – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland

Saint Mary’s Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland

Old Port Crane – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland

Old Port Crane

One of the major attactions is the Old Port Crane, also known as the Gdańsk Crane, actually has an unknown origin. Though ostensibly built to convey things from ships portside into the city over the surrounding wall its actual purpose remains a mystery. It burnt down once and was restored, only to be partially destroyed during the end of World War II and rebuilt in the 1960s as a historical piece and museum.

Patti on Rotating Bridge – Holy Spirit Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland

Old Port Crane Bronze Monument – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland

Large Tread Wheels – Old Port Crane – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland

Długa Street

Also known as Long Lane, or Langgasse, Długa Street is where you will find many of the notable houses that adorn the old town, as well as the Town Hall and Neptune’s Fountain.

Basement Restaurant – Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland

Golden House – Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland

Town Hall – Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland

Fahrenheit Monument – Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland

Long Market Place – Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland

It is bounded by the Green Gate on the end by the river, and the Golden Gate, which is near the former main entrance to the town, including its barbican and Highland Gate.

Golden Gate – Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland

Mariacka Street

Parallel to Long Lane is Mariacka Street, an unusual sort of street due to its narrowness and odd balustrades on the stoops of each of the houses that line the street.

Ornate Downspouts – Mariacka Street – Gdańsk, Poland

Ornate Balustades – Mariacka Street – Gdańsk, Poland

Each balustrade was made unique so that the owner could identify his building when the river overflowed it’s banks. Most of the houses here are also quaintly decorated, though many have fallen into disrepair over the years.

Raduni Canal

Another interesting place to visit is the area around the Raduni Canal. This is located on the other side of the basilica and Roman Keller.

Jan Heweliusz – Radunia Canal – Gdańsk, Poland

Waterfall by Mill – Radunia Canal – Gdańsk, Poland

Lew Hewelion Businessman Small Bronz – Radunia Canal – Gdańsk, Poland

Gates And More Gates

There are many gates in the old town, however most of the surviving ones still face the river.

Straganiarska Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland

Chlebnicka Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland

Green Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland

Cow’s Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland

Barbican and Tower of Secrets Gate – Stągwie Mleczne – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland

The Highland and Golden Gates are on the land side of the city and were connected to a great wall that surrounded it at one time. Here you will find one of the walls two barbicans attached to the Torture Gate or house. This gate doubled as a prison and became known for tortures that were carried out in its cellars.

Highland Gate – Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland

Old Town Wall and Straw Tower – Gdańsk, Poland

Jamark Building – Targ Węglowy Street – Gdańsk, Poland

More Old Town Wall and Park – Gdańsk, Poland

Churches And Cathedrals

Saint Mary’s Basilica

Situated almost in the center of town and on one end of Mariacka Street is Saint Mary’s Basilica. A brick gothic cathedral from the fourteenth century that has a working clock on its left side above the apse’s rear window which still appeared to maintain good time.

Nave – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland

Aisle – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland

Altar – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland

Art – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland

The church has an amazing organ and stained glass window in its transept. Though it is evident by the used mobile organ, the installed older one may no longer be in working order.

Organ – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland

Temporary Organ – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland

The church has a very interesting working astronomical clock and calendar along the interior left apse. According to records it not only computes most astronomical seasonal events, but also liturgical events and their timing.

Astronomical Clock – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland

Clock’s Calendar – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland

Lastly, this basilica is rather plain and therefore many of the epitaphs and memorials stick out prominently. Most have German inscriptions on them, owing to the city rich heritage, though many are also written in Latin.

Memorial – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland

Memorials – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland

Interesting Grave Inscription – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland

Restaurants

Yang Guang Chinese Restaurant

If you go through the Green Gate and cross the bridge then walk a few steps down Stągiewna Street you will find Yang Guang Chinese Restaurant on your right. If you are tired of all the meat, potatoes and dumplings you have been eating up until now, this is a very good stop for some vegetables. The even have broccoli in garlic sauce, one of our favorites.

Inside – Chińska Yang Guang Restaurant – Gdańsk, Poland

Wonton Soup – Chińska Yang Guang Restaurant – Gdańsk, Poland

Broccoli with Garlic Sauce on White Rice – Chińska Yang Guang Restaurant – Gdańsk, Poland

Sempre Ristorante

The Sempre Ristorante is near the tip of the small island on the other side of the river. It is a modern Italian restaurant that serves good food with an upscale slant on the recipes and the prices. You won’t go wrong eating here, but you will also pay for it, if you know what I mean.

Tygle Restaurant

A highly rated restaurant with excellent Polish food is Tygle. Here you will find some classics as well as some new takes on Polish cuisine. If you are a chocolate lover, the urchin dessert is a must try. But be careful, those spikes are dark chocolate and will cause real damage to your diet.

Salmon – Tygle Restaurant – Gdańsk, Poland

Potatoes and Asparagas – Tygle Restaurant – Gdańsk, Poland

Beef with Chorizo – Tygle Restaurant – Gdańsk, Poland

Chocolate Urchin – Tygle Restaurant – Gdańsk, Poland

Apple Crisp with Ice Cream – Tygle Restaurant – Gdańsk, Poland

24 July, 2026

Wrocław, Poland – City Of Gnomes

Aside from its old Germanic name of Breslau and its temporary occupation by the Soviets, Wrocław looks and feels completely Polish today. Though not as pretty or well kept as its southern cousin Kraków, it is still a nice city to visit for a few days.

Wrocław

Situated on the river Oder, Wrocław is today an odd mix of old, new and unfinished. We were actually quite surprised at how often we came up parcels in the city that were either unimproved or totally abandoned. That coupled with the weather, which for us turned rainy, made for a lasting impression of it being a dreary place if it so wished.

Fortunately we had enough good weather, however changeable it was, to tour the entire city and enjoy it. We especially enjoyed the area around the Wrocław Cathedral and would commend you visit there if you have a half day to spare.

Getting There

The easiest way to get to Wrocław from Kraków is either by car, bus or train. Since we try to use trains when we can, we took the inter-city train which took about there and a half hours to travel the distance.

Entrance – Wrocław Głowny – Wrocław, Poland

Gnomes Everywhere

In fact, there are over a thousand of these little bronze statues placed throughout the city. It is a great idea, the children love them and families can actually purchase or download and print off a map with the location of all of them. Finding them, of course, is still the tricky part, since it is not always obvious where they are exactly.

Gnomes on Penitent Bridge – Wrocław, Poland

Disappearing Pedestrians – Wrocław, Poland

Slaughterhouse Bronzes – Wrocław, Poland

Rynek Square

The main square in town is the Rynek. It is rather large but contains a number of buildings, as well as the town hall, in a misaligned fashion within the square or plaza itself. It is full a gnomes, so be careful to look while you walk, or you may miss one.

Town Hall – – Rynek Plaza – Wrocław, Poland

The Pillory – Rynek Plaza – Wrocław, Poland

Solny Square

Solny Square or plaza lies corner to corner with Rynek, since the are adjoined to one another on one of the vertices. Here you will find a small flower market which appears to be open every day. Again there are plenty of gnomes to find here, as well as some interesting monuments and sculptures.

Trzech Murzynków Sculpture – Solny Plaza – Wrocław, Poland

Smoki Fountain – Solny Plaza – Wrocław, Poland

Oder River

A portion of the Oder cuts through the city and bisects it. Here you can find a river cruise or tour, as well as magnifacent parks to stretch your legs. There are also plenty of museums in there area. One of particular note and worth a visit is the Panoramic Museum.

Wyspa Piasek – Oder River – Wrocław, Poland

Sand Bridge – Oder River – Wrocław, Poland

Panorama Racławice Museum

The museum provides a panorama of the Battle of Racławice which occurred in 1794 against the Russians. A branch of the National Museum in Wrocław, the museum is housed in a rotunda with a 360 degree canvas, as well as additional dioramatic accessory in the foreground, to give the visitor the feeling of what it might have been like during the battle.

Tickets For Two – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland

Entrance – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland

Inside – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland

It is a guided tour and language modules are provided so that everyone can enjoy the story of the battle as they move around the theater.

Scene 1 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland

Scene 2 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland

Scene 3 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland

Scene 4 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland

Scene 5 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland

Scene 6 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland

Scene 7 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland

Scene 8 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland

Scene 9 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland

Scene 10 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland

Scene 11 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland

Scene 12 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland

Church And Cathedrals

In this city you will find less churches, they are not as abundant as in Kraków. However, the ones you can visit and just as beautiful.

Wrocław Cathedral

Located across the Oder via the Sand and Tumski bridges, the Wrocław Cathedral has beautiful stained glass windows inside. They only adorn one side, since the windows on the other side are obfuscated by an adjoining structure, which in and of itself I found very odd.

Bronze Monument – Wrocław Cathedral – Wrocław, Poland

Tympanum and Entrance – Wrocław Cathedral – Wrocław, Poland

Carved Doors – Wrocław Cathedral – Wrocław, Poland

Nave – Wrocław Cathedral – Wrocław, Poland

Stained Glass – Wrocław Cathedral – Wrocław, Poland

Stained Glass Nave – Wrocław Cathedral – Wrocław, Poland

Altar – Wrocław Cathedral – Wrocław, Poland

Side Altar – Wrocław Cathedral – Wrocław, Poland

Consecrated Altar – Wrocław Cathedral – Wrocław, Poland

Old Door with Iron Hinges – Wrocław Cathedral – Wrocław, Poland

Cathedral Saint Mary Magdelena

The Cathedral Saint Mary Magdelena is the one church where we paid for entrance, so that we could ascend the tower and view the city from the Penitent Bridge.

Front and Facade – Cathedral Saint Mary Magdelena – Wrocław, Poland

Entrance – Cathedral Saint Mary Magdelena – Wrocław, Poland

Nave – Cathedral Saint Mary Magdelena – Wrocław, Poland

City View – Penitent Tower – Cathedral Saint Mary Magdelena – Wrocław, Poland

Restaurants

In Wrocław we decided to scale back on the amount of Polish food we would consume, since it is very rich and calory laden.

Konspira

The exception to the above remark was Konspira. A highly rated restaurant on Polish cusine and an interesting theme, the fight against the Soviets and communism.

Side Exit – Konspira Restaurant – Wrocław, Poland

Inside Entrance – Konspira Restaurant – Wrocław, Poland

The traditional Chicken Broth soup was amazingly light and delicious. I can also commend the ribs with horseradish, they were very tasty.

Themed Restaurant – Konspira Restaurant – Wrocław, Poland

Patti – Konspira Restaurant – Wrocław, Poland

Decor – Konspira Restaurant – Wrocław, Poland

Chicken Broth with Dumplings – Konspira Restaurant – Wrocław, Poland

Duck with Potatoes and Cabbage – Konspira Restaurant – Wrocław, Poland

Wiatr Chinese Restaurant

A break away from the traditional food here, we chose to eat Chinese for lunch. The food here is very good and less filling, it is also a bit lighter on your wallet. We found it a good choice for food and speedy service.

Wonton Soup – Wiatr Chinese Restaurant – Wrocław, Poland

Chicken with Vegetables and Fried Rice – Wiatr Chinese Restaurant – Wrocław, Poland

11 July, 202611 July, 2026

Modena, Italy – Home Of Balsamic

Known for balsamic vinegar, it also has a variety of other things to see and enjoy. Though we both couldn’t see spending more than a day here, unless of course the purpose is using it as a homebase for day trips elsewhere. The irony of it all is, you would think we would have at least tried balsamic while we were here, we did not.

Modena

Famously known for balsamic, Modena contains a few other points of interest, it twelfth century cathedral, as well as its own leaning tower. It has a market place, similar to other Italian towns and cities, which is actually inside for the most part and appears to function every day. The main street for shopping is most likely via Emilia Centro, it has porticos on one side and appears to have all the brand name shop one would expect to see.

Military Academy of Modena – Modena, Italy

Getting There

Thirty to forty minutes from Parma by train, Modena can be reached with only a few stops along the way for the regional train, or one stop if the InterCity train is used as an option. The train station in Modena and spartan and clean, as well as the neighborhood around it.

Entrance – Train Station – Modena, Italy

Comunale Palazzo

A civic building known as the Comunale Palazzo, was used in the past by the town council for official business and ceremonies. Outside and to the left of it, is the Preda Ringadora, a large piece of marble from Roman times used as a speaker’s platform; its present day means to “orate”. However, historians also say it was likely used as a pillory and also used to identify corpses which were laid out on it. In any case, it is commonly used today as a seat and a place of repose.

It is open and free to the public and has a handful of rooms that may be visited, which contain frescoes.

Clock Tower and Front – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy

Stairs to Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy

The palazzo is best known for its Hall of Fire. It is a term of endearment, assigned to it by the public to indicate that it was the hall containing the fireplace where back in the day, they could collect hot coals to warm themselves on the street during cold winter evenings. However, it is better known for the paintings that adorn the ceiling and walls that are the most impressive. Painted in the middle sixteenth century by Nicolò dell’Abate which depict episodes in Roman history that affected Modena as a town and city.

Frescoes in the Hall of Fire – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy

Fresco on Fireplace in the Hall of Fire – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy

Old Door and Iron Hinges in the Hall of Fire – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy

Fireplace in the Hall of Fire – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy

The Council Hall is where meetings would be held with respect to the town’s business. Electors would assemble here to discuss important matters of the day, planning and other administrative tasks.

Ceiling in the Hall of the Old Council – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy

Meeting Table in the Hall of the Old Council – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy

Hall of the Old Council – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy

There are also a Tapestry and a Wedding Hall. Neither is of any great import, except for the paintings that adorn each.

Tapestry Room – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy

Old Desk – Tapestry Room – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy

Marquetried Table – Tapestry Room – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy

Ceiling – Wedding Hall – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy

Organ – Wedding Hall – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy

At the back entrance to the palazzo is a statue of Perseus holding the severed head of Medusa. It can be seen directly by way of the back entrance stairwell. Or, when the back entrance doors are open, it can be seen from the street flanked on either side by old maps of Modena.

Back Stairs to Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy

Perseus with the head of Medusa – Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy

Fortification Map of Modena – Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy

Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy

Old Map of Modena – Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy

Civic Tower

Located adjacent to the cathedral is the Civic Tower. Yes, the Civic Tower leans and not by a little, a lot. Comparable to those leaning towers in Bologna and Pisa it’s not that impressive, but it is very noticeable when judged from a distance, using other buildings as a reference.

Cathedrals and Churches

Cathedral of Modena

The Cathedral of Modena, or precisely Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption and Saint Geminianus^[1]Saint Germinianus is Modena’s patron saint and who’s tomb, dating back to the fifth century, was part of one of the original churches erected on the same site., or colloquially and affectionately known as Il Duomo as in other Italian towns and cities. The main entrance has several tympanums above each door, depicting the biblical stories of Adam and Eve.

From outside it appears to have been rebuilt several times, many of the blocks that make up the facade of the structure do not match in many places. Though odd, the outside follows typical Romanesque architecture, with semi-circular arches that are filled in with brick and other appointments, with the exception of the large Piazza Portal on the north side, which almost functions as the main entrance.

Right Side – Cathedral of Modena – Modena, Italy

Cathedral of Modena and Civic Tower – Modena, Italy

The cathedral lacks a dome, instead having parapets on each of the four corners. It is sectioned in four places, reveals at the roof level as wall extending upwards, which coincide with the four internal arches for the nave. The inside is rather plain and mainly composed of bare brick. At the time we were there, a service was being held, limiting our ability to take more photographs.

Nave – Cathedral of Modena – Modena, Italy

Aisle – Cathedral of Modena – Modena, Italy

Restaurants

For our day trip, we ate at a local place right off the Piazza Grande which promised to have good food at a fair price.

Enoteca Al Duomo

We ate lunch here on recommendations that we read online. Our seating was inside, since the temperature outside was starting to become a bit annoying. The food and service were good and we spent an enjoyable hour discussing Modena and what else, if anything, there was to see in the city.

Insalata Mista and Tagliatella Bolognese – Enoteca Al Duomo – Grande Piazza – Modena, Italy

Il Pilotta

Located in our hotel, Hotel Stendhal in Parma, we enjoyed our last meal in the area at La Pilotta. The Cappelletti is broth is common for this area and can be commended. Our main dishes were Italian in general and good, though I did not care for the stuffing in the pork tip. The menu said it was potato, but it tasted more like a polenta or some other grain and it had an odd taste for me.

Cappelletti in Broth – La Pilotta Restaurant – Stendhal Hotel – Parma, Italy

Eggplant Parmigiana – La Pilotta Restaurant – Stendhal Hotel – Parma, Italy

Stuffed Pork Tip with Potatoes – La Pilotta Restaurant – Stendhal Hotel – Parma, Italy

References[+]

References
↑1	Saint Germinianus is Modena’s patron saint and who’s tomb, dating back to the fifth century, was part of one of the original churches erected on the same site.

28 April, 20268 May, 2026

Reggio Calabria, Italy – Calabrian Classic

If anyone travels all the way down to the very tip of Italy they will discover Reggio Calabria, a Calabrian city with all the classic touches of Southern Italy. Offshore, you will see the ever present Mount Etna smoking in the background.

Getting There And Back

To get there we took TrennItalia’s Calabrian Regional train service from Tropea. Approximately a two hour train ride that eventually hugs the coast and offers a preview of the Italian island of Sicily.

Our First View of Sicily – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy

Messina Ferry – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy

Coming Into Reggio Calabria – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy

To get back we used Reggio Calabria’s airport, where RyanAir offers direct service to Turin’s Caselle Airport. Another trip just short of two hours which also hugs the coast of Italy and also offers views of Sardinia and other prominent points of interest from the air.

Reggio Calabria

The official name for the city is Reggio Calabria, but it is also known by its traditional names of Reggio di Calabria and just plain Reggio. The city was almost completely destroyed by an earthquake in the beginning of the last century and its more hopefully robust version has new amenities the former city lacked.

Large Banyan Trees – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Corso Garibaldi – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Piazza d’Italia – Reggio Calabria, Italy

If you love food, visit the shops along Corso Garibaldi. Many have interesting and local foods that you can bring home with you to enjoy, while you reminisce about your time in Calabria.

Calabrian Volcanic Spread – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Just up from our hotel and on the transformed via Giudecca street, is the eponymous stairway.

Giudecca Stairway – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Torrine Hotel

On the edge of the older and more vibrant part of the city, the Torrine Hotel is about four blocks from the waterfront. This is just as well, since it provides a quieter place to stay, with the exception being rush hour; it is located on a busy one-way thoroughfare through the city that buses frequent. Our room came with breakfast, a mixture of continental with some warm food thrown in.

Breakfast – Hotel Torrione – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Lungomare

The city has an extensive waterfront and a beautiful Lungomare to go with it. Near the end of it, in the urban park, you will find a nice long sign with the city’s name where you can take memorable photographs.

Beach – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Looking North – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Patti by City Sign – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Erick by City Sign – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

There are several points of interest along the boardwalk and a leisurely stroll along it will eventually bring you to all of them.

Abandoned Boats – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Wave Science Experiment – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Unknown Statue – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Somewhere near the end, down by the Roman Baths, Patti found the Big Bench. Apparently just installed, since it had no placename on it yet.

Patti finds the Big Bench – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Monumento Della Vittoria

From our hotel on Via Giula, almost directly down the street and on the waterfront and Lungomare, is the Monumento della Vittoria. It is a monument erected for Italy’s World War I victory and Victor Emmanuele III, which also has replica of the Statue of Athena Promachos inside it.

Arena del Stretto – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Roman Baths

Along the Lungomare is a site of old Roman baths from antiquity.

Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo

A large cathedral in the Piazza Duomo is the Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo. It was partially destroyed in the 1908 earthquake and rebuilt with a fusion of Romanesque and Gothic styles.

Bronze Doors – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Aisle – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Clerestory by Entry – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

The most interesting interior element of the cathedral is its ceiling. A timbered edifice that is remarqued and painted in a most interesting style, including pagan elements which appear to be handpainted.

Nave – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Nave’s Ceiling – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Crossing – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Urn – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Altar and Apse – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Organ in Transept – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Side Chapel – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Castello Aragonese

The Castle Aragonese no longer functions as a castle and has been renovated into something more useful, an art museum. Here for a small fee you are able to enjoy two galleries, one in each tower.

Tickets For Two – Entry to Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

North Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Patti on South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

North Tower Gallery

During our visit this gallery had an exhibit of modern paintings, most of which bright colors were used in an almost three dimensional approach.

Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

South Tower Gallery

While we were visiting this tower housed a collection of art known as Voci senza Volto, or Voices without a Face. An effective and provocitive collection of art, which appears part surreal and part dystopian and gets the viewer to think about signs of struggle, longing and hardship. This was the high point of the trip for me.

Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Being Neutral Serves No One – Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Villas And Palazzos

There are a few villas and palazzos of import in the city.

Villa Genoese Zerbi

A beautiful Venetian Art Nouveau style building on the Corso Emanuele is the villa of Genoese Zerbi. The original was destroyed in the great quake, but it was completely restored and now is one of the main charms of the city.

Palazzos Spinelli and Giuffrè

These two palazzos are side by side on the Corso Emanuele by the waterfront. Both appear to need some work. Palazzo Spinelli offers a great example of Calabrian architecture and Art Nouveau, or the liberty style.

Palazzo Spinelli – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Palazzo Giuffrè on the other hand offers a more mundane example, and is reminiscent of other buildings you will find in other large Italian cities.

Palazzo Giuffri – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Restaurants

Drogheria Culinaria

Using its former name for the grocery store the family used to own, it now serves food and drinks. It has a decent wine list, with several good varietals by the glass.

Inside – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

The food is also pretty good and you will definitely be able to find something to slake your appetite at this establishment.

Meatballs, Bread with Hot ‘Nduja and Wine – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Pat’s Spaghettone and Erick’s Tagliotella, both with Pork Ragú sauce – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante

One of the restaurants in the area that is highly recommended for local Calabrian dishes is the Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante. Located on via Reggio Campi and via II Dezembre, this small little restaurants attacts all the locals, so have your reservation in hand before leaving your hotel or place of stay.

Old Citroen – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Everything we tried had that home cooking taste without any loss to attention to detail. The Stufato is highly recommended and will melt in your mouth.

Menu – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Stufato di Maialino a bassa Temperatura with Coleslaw – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Cavatelli al Sugo di Capra – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Stufato di Maialino a bassa Temperatura – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

While we were there a local class was having their end of year party, so noise levels were through the roof. However, it was still enjoyable, especially watching the children eating all that food. Made me remember how hungry I used to be as a school kid.

End of Year Lunch for Children – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Fennel Aperativo with Expresso – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Tartufo – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

26 April, 20264 May, 2026

Tropea, Italy – Onions Anyone?

A destination for tourists and those interested in southern Italian cuisine, a stop in Tropea is almost a must. Known for their mixture of Sicilian and Greek influences, this part of Calabria is famous for the Tropean Red Onion, or Cipolla Rossa, one of the most tasty onions in the world. Onions anyone?

Tropean Onions – Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy

Getting There

In order to get to Tropea from Sapri we had to take the InterCity train from Sapri to Lamezia Terme Centrale and then connect. Unfortunately there is no logistical way around it. From there we took the local TrennItalia Regional train service to Tropea. This gave us a two and a half hour layover in Lamezia Terme, just enough time for lunch!

Lamezia Terme

Other than connecting with our other train, there was no other reason to visit this place, that is, other than lunch! With two and a half hours layover, we had plenty of time.

Restaurants

Europa da Albano

While we were on our InterCity train, I took the liberty of researching what our options were at Lamezia Terme. There weren’t many, but this restaurant and pizzeria caught my eye. It was a good choice. It was very busy inside and out and packed with local people, which is actually a good sign. Though we waited a bit to order, the wait was not bad in the end and our drinks and food arrived within customary promptness.

Spaghetti Bolognese – Europa da Albano Ristorante – Lamezia Terme, Italy

Tropea

One of the Canons – Piazza del Cannone – Tropea, Italy

Another Canon – Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy

Unknown to us, Tropea is a very busy tourist destination and we were there on a weekend, so the crowds we experienced were kind of unexpected, especially for this time of year.

Old Portal – Largo Galluppi – Tropea, Italy

17th Century Palazzo Marchesi Toraldo di Francia – Tropea, Italy

One of the main squares or piazzas close to our hotel, was the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, which our street ran right into, if you walked far enough. It has plenty of seating and a few monuments amongst the trees that have been planted to provide some shade against the sun.

Statua ai caduti di Tropea – Tropea, Italy

From there the main street in town is the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, which turns into Via Stazione as one gets closer to the train station.

Weekend Visitors – Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy

Hotel Colomba D’Oro

In Tropea we stayed at a hotel between the old part of town and the train station. It was just as well, our hotel in the city was the Hotel Colomba D’Oro on via Vittorio Veneto and it proved to be quiet and very comfortable. Our room came with a free morning continental breakfast, which included cooked eggs, pancetta and other warm offerings.

Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania

The twelfth century cathedral of Saint Mary of Romania is on Largo Duomo. The interior houses guilt altar for the Virgin of Romania and the Black Crucifix of 1600.

Chapel Dome – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Tomb by Entrance – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Organ and Altar of the Virgin of Romania – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Black Crucifix of 1600 – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Altar – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Statues – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Mother Mary and Jesus – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea

On the presque-isle of Tropea, which is actually to an island than a peninsula, stands the Sanctuary of Santa Maria. In order to get there one has to climb down from the city and ascend the stairs to the sanctuary, which opens around ten in the morning. It is best to get their at opening, because as we where leaving throngs of people appeared and the inside of the chapel is quite tiny.

View – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Facade and Entrance – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

The entrance to the sanctuary is adorned by three painted cielings.

Entrance – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

The interior is actually quite small and fitted out with pews, an altar and other accoutrements of catholicism. There is also a small shop where you can by a keepsake, postcards or other memorabilia.

Pews – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Confessional – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Nave – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Altar – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

There are a few vantage points in which to take photographs of the surrounding coast and beach, as well as the city of Tropea perched on its cliff.

Patti – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Erick – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Belvedere Gardens

An adjunct to the sanctuary are the Belvedere Gardens, access to which is controlled by entry to the chapel. The gardens command a view of the coastline and with perfect weather equally good photographs of it.

There are a variety of trees in the garden, as well as other bushes and flowering plants. In the day it must have been an amazing place to repose and enjoy the day.

Patti – Belvedere Gardens – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Via Lungo Mare

Though the walk along the Lungomare in Tropea is not the best we have been on, it is a nice walk that can bring you back up on the other side of Tropea. It also provides access to the sandy beach that enjoys protection from the wind and the waves and appears to be a favorite for the locals.

The Grotto – Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy

Nasocchio – The Apotropian Mask

Walking though the town a visitor will occasionally notice a mask that almost looks like a caricature. The closest analog we have in the States are caricature artists that frequent fairs and draw your face with a pencil in a very stylized way. Well, these masks are specific to the Calabrian culture.

Nasocchio and the Apotropian Masks – Totemic Masks against Evil Eye – Tropea, Italy

Nasocchio as he is called in Calabrian culture is a mask whose strange and unique glare is supposed to frighten away evil spirits, or what is commonly termed here the Malocchio or Evil Eye. The Italian Horn is meant to function in the same way, as are other strange artifacts in the culture. They are also meant to bring good fortune with their use.

Restaurants

Though we stayed here only for two nights, we still had occasion to visit three restaurants, all of which offered local Calabrian or Sicilian dishes.

Royal Bar

Not known for their food, we bought some drinks here for a quick rest. Nothing special, but the drinks were okay.

Campari Spritz and Granita – Royal Bar – Tropea, Italy

Diamante Rosso Tropea Ristorante

Here we had to try to local al ragu Arancini, or Sicilian breaded and conically shaped stuffed rice balls that are deep-fried. They were amazing, but usually always good, depending where you buy and how they are made. They can actually be purchased at most good local stores, cafes and some marketplaces and quickly heated up for a snack or meal.

Spaghetti alla Ragu – Diamante Rosso Tropea Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante

At Le Volpe we ordered a pasta dish each and dessert. The Filey was freshly made and topped with Tropean Onions, which are deliciously sweet, when they are sautéed until they have that glassy look.

Drink Menu – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Entrance – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Filey Fresh Pasta with Tropean Onions – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Spaghetti alla Ragu – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Dessert and Expresso – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Palazzo Teotino Ristorante

This restaurant is housed in an old palazzo and has both indoor and outdoor seating. We sat indoor right in the foyer next to the stairwell. We came here for the Tropean Onion soup that they advertize and found it very rich and tasty. We can also commend the fried onion floret, you get about four when you order them, so enough to share.

Entrance – Palazzo Teotino Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Dessert Menu – Palazzo Teotino Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Fried Onions – Palazzo Teotino Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Tropean Onion Soup – Palazzo Teotino Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

24 April, 20264 May, 2026

Sapri, Italy – Sunny Interlude

After our week in Naples where we took several days to visit the Amalfi Coast, we headed further south and stopped in Sapri. This was a scheduled visit to break up the trip and offer us a sunny interlude and a bit of repose before continuing to Tropea and later Reggio Calabria.

Sapri

Sapri is a small Italian town that is dominated by its stony beach. While there it was fairly vacant and deviod of other tourists. But there were plenty of restaurants open and we did enjoy that relaxing atmosphere and food.

The town itself is nothing to look at, but there are a few spots of interest, all of which were along the coastal area. Situated in the Gulf of Policastro it is surrounded by hills on all three sides. Luckily the train station is a short ten minute walk to and from the beach.

Getting There

There are several trains that run between Naples and Sapri. Perhaps the most convenient one will be the local, which stops at several points, but offers a bit more flexibility.

Patti – InterCity Train to Sapri – Naples, Italy

Forest Fire – InterCity Train to Sapri – Naples, Italy

Gulf of Policastro – InterCity Train to Sapri – Naples, Italy

Our Hotel

We stayed at the Hotel Pisacane, a small botique style hotel right on the beach. Unfortunately with the exception of breakfast, the restaurant is closed until tourist season which starts in June. Luckily, that did not turn into an issue for us.

Entrance – Hotel Pisacane – Sapri, Italy

Interesting Tree – Hotel Pisacane – Sapri, Italy

The Observatory

A very tall structure overlooking the Gulf of Policastro. It appears to celebrate eight renowned Italian scientist from astronomy, radio and meterology. It is located on the northern part of the beach, close to the Roman Villa Ruins.

Radio Greats Volta and Edison – Observatory Tower – Sapri, Italy

Radio – Volta and Edison – Observatory Tower – Sapri, Italy

Astronomy – Happi and Marconi – Observatory Tower – Sapri, Italy

Meterology – Copernicus and Newton – Observatory Tower – Sapri, Italy

Meterology – Galileo and Denza – Observatory Tower – Sapri, Italy

Roman Villa Ruins

Partially perserved under a canopy, the Roman Villa ruins are also north of town and located close to the observatory. The observatory also has some roman ruins near it that appear to be an old roman cellar or other structure.

Restaurants

While in Sapri we ate at two good restaurants that were noteworthy. Both of which were for a late lunch. We prefer most of the time to eat a heavier lunch and just skip dinner altogether.

Tintobrace Ristorante

An upscale restaurant that offers Calabrian food and fine selection of local wines by the glass. I would recommend the Cacio and Pepe spaghetti.

Insalata Mista with Onions – Tintobrace Ristorante – Sapri, Italy

Pasta with Tomatoes and Roasted Peppers – Tintobrace Ristorante – Sapri, Italy

Cacio and Pepe Spaghetti – Tintobrace Ristorante – Sapri, Italy

Ristorante Lucifero

The Ristorante Lucifero is also a pizzeria and has great pizza and pasta specials. It is located in town and not on the beach and is a bit difficult to spot. Therefore, they have added signs along the way to assist.

Entrance – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

Secondi and Sides – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

Choose your pasta type, choose your sauce – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

Veal with Mushrooms and Insalata Mista – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

Veal with Mushrooms – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

Pasta alla Ragu – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

Inside – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

I can commend the Aglianico from Paestum, Italy. Luigi Maffini’s Klèos comes in 50cl bottles and pairs perfectly with pasta and other tomato based dishes. I love Aglianico, it is a deep, clear, ruby wine with hints of plum, berry and dark fruit and is very tasty.

Kleos Wine – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

21 April, 202629 April, 2026

Amalfi Coast, Italy – Part One

Amalfi Coast

On our first day to the Amalfi Coast, we were fortunate enough to be able to use the train service to get to Vietri sul Mare. Though in hindsight we probably should have used the longer, though more direct regional service, we opted instead for the faster option and had to change trains three times! Don’t make that mistake.

Vietri sul Mare

Vietri sul Mare is one of the small towns that comprise the Amalfi Coast. It is also known as the gateway to the coast, the rest are accessible only by car, bus or possibly boat, there is no continuing train service beyond Vietri sul Mare.

The Church’s tiled dome – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

The town is known for its glassware and ceramic factories and shops. Here you will find of plethora of shops selling all sorts of tiles, porcelain and other types of ceramics for use in the house and as decoration.

The old cermic factory – Ceramica Artistica Solimene Vincenzo – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

Villa Comunale Vietri sul Mare – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

The town is small enough to easily visit within a day. We only needed a few hours to cover the entire town, even walking down from the train station, which luckily has an elevator to bring you down most of the way. However, it should be noted, you will have to walk several hundred meters downhill to reach the beach and then up again. Like the other coastal towns, it is built on a very steep hillside.

Solerno Container Ship port – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

Long and narrow stairways – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

Getting There

To get to Vietri sul Mare, we had to take two trains from Naples. First, we took a regional train to Napoli Centrale, since the metro was not working. Then we took another train to Solerno. After about a ten minute layover, we took a regional train then to Vietri sul Mare.

For our return, we decided to take regional train back, since it offered a longer, but more direct option to the Piazza Amadeo station by our hotel, removing the need for us to get off and change trains.

Ceramic Tiled Houses

The town is full of tiled shops and buildings. Most of the shop owners tile their entrances as part decoration and part advertisement.

Ceramic souvenirs – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

Case Colorate

Perhaps the only house specifically known for its on-going construction and colorful use of tiles. Even when we were there, they seem to be embarking on some new expenditure, both inside and out.

Two Brothers

The Two Brothers are apparently from local legend, since when you finally see them, there are not two of them. In any case, it makes for an interesting backdrop for a photograph.

The Two Brothers – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

Patti – The Two Brothers – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

Erick – The Two Brothers – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

Restaurants

Since this was a day trip, we had time for lunch. Although we did have a few restaurants in mind, the following we found serendipitously.

Sole di Vietri

A small restaurant, comparable to a trattoria that serves very good food. Seating outside is limited and might be an issue during the summer months, when it is very busy.

Front – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

The menu offers daily specials and real home cooking, Italian style. You will find dishes derived from local cuisine, as well as some neopalitan and Italian favorites.

Cold Zucchini with Balsamic and Stuffed Peppers – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

Squid with tomatoes and potatoes – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

Pasta Fresca – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

Our Table and Menu – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

However, all meals should end in a nice glass of Limonchello, a favorite and local specialty.

Limonchello – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy

20 April, 202623 April, 2026

Naples, Italy – Our Brief Return

Recently we made a decision to return to Naples, if only to use it as a launch point to visit the Amalfi Coast. It was a brief return to enjoy the food and some of the sites we fell in love with four years ago.

Naples

When we travel to Naples, we usually stay in Chiaia. It is an upscale and slightly newer part of Naples that offers a bit more quiet and relief from the tourist activity in the center. It also offers a furnicular to Vomero, which can be used to hop over to the Spanish Quarter, as well as great metro and regional train service.

Coming into Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy

Getting There

We took the FrecciaRossa TrenItalia service from Torino’s Porta Nuova. It takes about six hours and makes about just as many stops along the way. We normally purchase or make sandwiches for such trips, so that we may enjoy the trip without getting overly hungry.

Hotel Pinto Storey

Again, we booked the Pinto Storey hotel in Chiaia. A simple, quiet three star hotel occupying one floor by the Piazza Amadeo. It is a very convenient place to stay, because there is the metro and regional train stop in the Piazza, which gives you quick access to the entire city and beyond.

Capri in the distance – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Hotel Pinto Storey – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Continental Breakfast – Hotel Pinto Storey – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

The Spanish Quarter

We visited the Spanish Quarter before and see that there is much more activity here now, since we were last here at the end of the pandemic. It is worth a walk through if you have never been here and there seem to be several streets now that have active stores and street vendors on them.

Centro

The center part of the city has not changed a bit. The central shopping street is just a busy as when we were here last time. A stroll up the christmas street is also a must if you come for a visit.

Voremo

One our way back to Chiaia we took the furnicular up to Voremo to get a few photographs of Monte Somma and Vesuvius. They do not cost much and provide an easy means for getting around the more difficult parts of the city.

Tickets for Two – Vomero – Naples, Italy

Restaurants

We came to Naples having only one restaurant on our list of places we wanted to visit. Any others were based on proximity or a quick search for a place to eat. However, half of the time we were here, we didn’t even eat dinner. Preferring rather to enjoy a large lunch at our day trip destinations instead.

Osteria Pignatelli

A highly rated restaurant, that for all intents and purposes you should call for a reservation, since it tends to get very busy. The interior is appealing and fairly modern. The food is very good as well. Perhaps not the best I have had in Naples, but equal to the Michelin stars they have earned.

Patti – Osteria Pignatelli – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Table Setting – Osteria Pignatelli – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Eggplant and Stuffed Pumpkin Flowers – Osteria Pignatelli – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Potatoes with Cheese – Osteria Pignatelli – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Pasta Genovese – Osteria Pignatelli – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Portico Pizzeria é Trattoria

On Via dei Tribunali is the Portico Pizzeria é Trattoria. We stopped here for lunch and enjoyed a nice meal at surprisingly reasonable prices for this part of the city. The service was timely and the food was very good, so it is commendable.

Entrance – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy

Patti – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy

Pasta Fresca and Insalata Mista – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy

Mozzarella Spoon – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy

Erick – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy

Pizzeria Staiano Dal 1964

This is a small family own trattoria that specializes in pizza. They also have a menu that changes each day, which contains a nice selection of local specialities.

Pizza Margherita – Pizzeria Staiano dal 1964 – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

We were luck enough to visit twice, so that we could try both the pizza and the pasta dishes.

Aranicini – Pizzeria Staiano dal 1964 – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Pasta Genovese – Pizzeria Staiano dal 1964 – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Dessert – Pizzeria Staiano dal 1964 – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

7 April, 202611 April, 2026

Arona, Italy – Rocca Repose

About a ten minute train ride from Stresa is the small town and bedroom community of Arona. Its claim to fame, if it has any, would be the La Rocca^[1]“The castle” in italian, or the Arona or Borromeo Castle.

Arona

Situated on the southern tail of Lake Maggiore and home to the Arona Castle is the small city of Arona. From the Lungolago, or boardwalk that runs along the lake, it offers a beautiful view of the Angera Castle on the other side of the lake.

Castle di Angera – Lake Maggiore – Arona, Italy

Piazza Gorizia – Lake Maggiore – Arona, Italy

Its main thoroughfare is the Via Cavour. Here you will find most of the shopping, with restaurants available on many of its side streets.

Main shopping street – Via Cavour – Arona, Italy

Getting There

From Stresa we took the Regional Express, which runs from Milan to Domodossola. The ride takes about ten minutes in the direction of Milan and for this trip costs around €3.30 per person per direction.

Church of San Graziano

Also known as the Santi Martiri is a Roman Catholic chuch in Arona on the hill where Piazza San Graziano is located. We noted the church as we passed by, but did not walk the stairs to enter, since we were on our way back to the train station.

Church of the Martyred Saints of San Graziano – Arona, Italy

Collegiate Church of Arona

The Collegiate Church of Arona is also referred to as the New Church, or the Collegiate Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary. It has a long history dating back to the mid fifteenth century and was actually consecrated before its completion, in order to resolve internal issues and from competition with Santi Martiri, which was being built at the same time.

Entrance – Collegiata di Santa Maria Nascente – Arona, Italy

Nave – Collegiata di Santa Maria Nascente – Arona, Italy

Arona Castle

More people come here for the Rocca Park, wherein the castle resides, and not for the castle itself, since there is actually not much of it to see.

The Rocca, or castle, apparently dates back to the late tenth century and by the eleventh century it had become a military fortification to defend the Milanese territory. From then on, it was fought over by the Torriani, Viscontis and Borromeo families.

Old Chapel – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy

Some time in the fifteenth century, the Viscontis family built a hidden stairway from the port to the castle, so that the two could be connected during times of trouble. Parts of which were hewn from solid rock. After the castle was sacked, the stairway remained, though it is currently cordoned off to visitors.

Secret Street – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy

It wasn’t until Napoleon Bonaparte arrived, that the castle was completely destroyed and left in ruin.

The park however does command a view of the lake and the town itself. One can also get a good view of the Angera Castle on the other side of the lake, which looks a lot more impressive than the one in Arona.

Lake Maggiore and Arona – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy

Lake Maggiore – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy

There is a small cafe where you can also stop and get some refreshment and enjoy the views.

Patti at cafe – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy

Restaurants

Sancarlino

A small place with fewer than a dozen tables. It has good food and will get full after about 12:30, so get there early at opening for a seat. While we were eating, they were turning people away.

Patti – Sancarlino Ristorante – Arona, Italy

References[+]

References
↑1	“The castle” in italian

6 April, 20267 April, 2026

Domodossola, Italy – Easter Pilgrimage

Kind of by luck and definitely by accident, we made our own religious pilgrimage on Easter Sunday. Our pre-planned trip was always to visit Domodossola, but only included our walk up the Via Calvario as an aside, or suggestion, if we had time. It ended up being the perfect event on a near perfect day, at least with respect to the weather.

Domodossola

A large city at the top edge of Italy with Switzerland. It is the last stop on the train line from Italy into its neighboring country. It is an odd mix of new with some very old parts. The streets are very clean and well maintained. Some of the buildings date back to Columbus’ day and actually look it.

Entrance – Collegiata dei Santi Gervaso e Protaso – Via Giovanni Capis – Domodossola, Italy

Nave – Collegiata dei Santi Gervaso e Protaso – Via Giovanni Capis – Domodossola, Italy

The city has the usual fountains and piazzas. Since it was a holiday, all museums and other tourist related buildings and facilities were closed. However, we did find some shops and restaurants that would normally be closed on a Sunday, open.

One Of The Main Streets – Domodossola, Italy

Buildings Of All Shapes And Sizes – Domodossola, Italy

Beautifully Cobbled Streets – Domodossola, Italy

Pretty Architecture – Domodossola, Italy

Getting There

We took one of the Regional Express trains from Stresa and we were there within a half an hour. Unexpectedly, we were stopped by police inside the train station after we got off the train. I guess it was probably because there were no other IC or EC trains going into Switzerland, so they had nothing better to do. They asked me for my travel documents and luckily I had my new wallet sized US passport. They took a photograph of it, exclaimed that it was the first time they saw one and let me pass. My wife told them all she had was a driver’s license, but the quickly looked at her and said no problem, go through. Yeah, they don’t profile in Italy. So, if you are traveling close to the Swiss border in Italy, bring your passport and travel documents, you never know, you might be stopped!

On Our Way To Domodossola – Train Station – Stresa, Italy

Monte Calvario

To see the fifteen chapels and stations of the cross, you have to climb Monte Calvario. You arrive at the mount by the Via Calvario, a street which can be found off the Via Matterella.

The first thing you will see is a small church or chapel with a large sign explaining the origins, history and design of the entire idea.

Church – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Doors on the Church – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

A bit further down this road will be the start of the Via Calvario. At first, the first four chapels come fast and furious.

Cherry Trees – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Crossing to Monte Calvario – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Chapel – First Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Mountains – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Chapel – Second Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Chapel – Third Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Once the road starts to incline, it might be better to walk on the flat pavement stones in the middle, or the outer edges if you have to, because after a short while the vertically set stones will take a toll on your feet.

The Long Way Up – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Chapel – Fourth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Then the incline increases and it takes a bit longer to get to the next four. But, our weather was extremely pleasant, sunny and in the middle sixty degrees Fahrenheit.

Chapel – Fifth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Chapel – Sixth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Climb To The Seventh Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Mountains In Early Spring – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Patti – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Chapel – Seventh Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Final Stairs To The Top – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

The Town With Mountains Behind – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Grounds On Top – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Once you have reached the eigth station, you are more on less on the top of the mount. Here you will find the remaining four, eight, nine, ten and eleven.

Chapel – Eigth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Chapel – Ninth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Chapel – Tenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Chapel – Eleventh Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

The twelfth and thirteenth are actually in the Church of the Holy Crucifix. A beautiful little church and chapel with real candles that may be lit for prayers.

Church Del SS Crocifisso – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Church Del SS Crocifisso – Twelfth And Thirteenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

The remaining stations are outside again. We only managed to find the fifteenth station, since it is right next to an overview of the city. The other, was below by the cafe, which we had no interest at that point in visiting.

Chapel – Fifteenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

View Of Domodossola And Mountains – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Patti – Domodossola And Mountains – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy

Restaurants

After walking the city for about an hour, we found a bistro for lunch. We only order salads and cannot say much about the quality of their steak, which seems to be their primary offering. However, had we known better, there was a quaint little Osteria not far from there that was actually serving an Easter dinner, with lamb and all usual italian side dishes. Oh well, our loss.

With this post we will note that we have seen a marked increase in restaurant prices. Not only for food, but drinks as well. Perhaps not exspensive as the States, but they are getting up there.

Restaurant Bistro Steak House

As a Insalata Greco goes, they were okay. About medium in size and they didn’t have a lot of Feta cheese on them, so the owner is a bit cheap. But the food was okay and not terribly expensive. I would say, if you have time, find somewhere else, but the food is fine otherwise, though you may find the service more than lacking, especially after you receive your food.

Entrance – Bisto Steak House – Domodossola, Italy

Insalata Mista – Bisto Steak House – Domodossola, Italy

Another good tip, at least for here, but we have seen it elsewhere too. If you are done and have already told them so, get up and go to the bar (Cassa) and pay, don’t wait for them to come back. You may sprout some new grey hairs if you do.