Recently we made a decision to return to Naples, if only to use it as a launch point to visit the Amalfi Coast. It was a brief return to enjoy the food and some of the sites we fell in love with four years ago.
Naples
When we travel to Naples, we usually stay in Chiaia. It is an upscale and slightly newer part of Naples that offers a bit more quiet and relief from the tourist activity in the center. It also offers a furnicular to Vomero, which can be used to hop over to the Spanish Quarter, as well as great metro and regional train service.
Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Coming into Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Getting There
We took the FrecciaRossa TrenItalia service from Torino’s Porta Nuova. It takes about six hours and makes about just as many stops along the way. We normally purchase or make sandwiches for such trips, so that we may enjoy the trip without getting overly hungry.
Coming into Naples – Naples, Italy
View from our hotel – Pinto Storey – Chiaia – Naples, Italy
View from our hotel – Pinto Storey – Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Hotel Pinto Storey
Again, we booked the Pinto Storey hotel in Chiaia. A simple, quiet three star hotel occupying one floor by the Piazza Amadeo. It is a very convenient place to stay, because there is the metro and regional train stop in the Piazza, which gives you quick access to the entire city and beyond.
We visited the Spanish Quarter before and see that there is much more activity here now, since we were last here at the end of the pandemic. It is worth a walk through if you have never been here and there seem to be several streets now that have active stores and street vendors on them.
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Centro
The center part of the city has not changed a bit. The central shopping street is just a busy as when we were here last time. A stroll up the christmas street is also a must if you come for a visit.
Obelisk San Domenico – Naples, Italy
Via Vicaria Vecchia – Naples, Italy
Porta d’Alba – Naples, Italy
Piazza Dante – Naples, Italy
Piazza Dante – Naples, Italy
Voremo
One our way back to Chiaia we took the furnicular up to Voremo to get a few photographs of Monte Somma and Vesuvius. They do not cost much and provide an easy means for getting around the more difficult parts of the city.
Tickets for Two – Vomero – Naples, Italy
Furnicular – Vomero – Naples, Italy
Furnicular – Vomero – Naples, Italy
Capri – Vomero – Naples, Italy
Restaurants
We came to Naples having only one restaurant on our list of places we wanted to visit. Any others were based on proximity or a quick search for a place to eat. However, half of the time we were here, we didn’t even eat dinner. Preferring rather to enjoy a large lunch at our day trip destinations instead.
Osteria Pignatelli
A highly rated restaurant, that for all intents and purposes you should call for a reservation, since it tends to get very busy. The interior is appealing and fairly modern. The food is very good as well. Perhaps not the best I have had in Naples, but equal to the Michelin stars they have earned.
Front – Osteria Pignatelli – Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Pasta Genovese – Osteria Pignatelli – Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Portico Pizzeria é Trattoria
On Via dei Tribunali is the Portico Pizzeria é Trattoria. We stopped here for lunch and enjoyed a nice meal at surprisingly reasonable prices for this part of the city. The service was timely and the food was very good, so it is commendable.
Entrance – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy
Patti – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy
Pasta Fresca and Insalata Mista – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy
Mozzarella Spoon – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy
Erick – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy
Pizzeria Staiano Dal 1964
This is a small family own trattoria that specializes in pizza. They also have a menu that changes each day, which contains a nice selection of local specialities.
About a ten minute train ride from Stresa is the small town and bedroom community of Arona. Its claim to fame, if it has any, would be the La Rocca[1]“The castle” in italian, or the Arona or Borromeo Castle.
Arona
Situated on the southern tail of Lake Maggiore and home to the Arona Castle is the small city of Arona. From the Lungolago, or boardwalk that runs along the lake, it offers a beautiful view of the Angera Castle on the other side of the lake.
Arona Street – Arona, Italy
Arona Street – Arona, Italy
Boat Launch – Arona, Italy
Castle di Angera – Lake Maggiore – Arona, Italy
Castle di Angera – Lake Maggiore – Arona, Italy
Piazza Gorizia – Lake Maggiore – Arona, Italy
Its main thoroughfare is the Via Cavour. Here you will find most of the shopping, with restaurants available on many of its side streets.
Statue – Via Cavour – Arona, Italy
Main shopping street – Via Cavour – Arona, Italy
Main shopping street – Via Cavour – Arona, Italy
Getting There
From Stresa we took the Regional Express, which runs from Milan to Domodossola. The ride takes about ten minutes in the direction of Milan and for this trip costs around €3.30 per person per direction.
Train Station – Arona, Italy
Train Station – Arona, Italy
Train Station – Arona, Italy
Church of San Graziano
Also known as the Santi Martiri is a Roman Catholic chuch in Arona on the hill where Piazza San Graziano is located. We noted the church as we passed by, but did not walk the stairs to enter, since we were on our way back to the train station.
Church of the Martyred Saints of San Graziano – Arona, Italy
Collegiate Church of Arona
The Collegiate Church of Arona is also referred to as the New Church, or the Collegiate Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary. It has a long history dating back to the mid fifteenth century and was actually consecrated before its completion, in order to resolve internal issues and from competition with Santi Martiri, which was being built at the same time.
Entrance – Collegiata di Santa Maria Nascente – Arona, Italy
Nave – Collegiata di Santa Maria Nascente – Arona, Italy
Arona Castle
More people come here for the Rocca Park, wherein the castle resides, and not for the castle itself, since there is actually not much of it to see.
Borromeo Castle Park – Arona, Italy
Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
The Rocca, or castle, apparently dates back to the late tenth century and by the eleventh century it had become a military fortification to defend the Milanese territory. From then on, it was fought over by the Torriani, Viscontis and Borromeo families.
Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
Old Chapel – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
Some time in the fifteenth century, the Viscontis family built a hidden stairway from the port to the castle, so that the two could be connected during times of trouble. Parts of which were hewn from solid rock. After the castle was sacked, the stairway remained, though it is currently cordoned off to visitors.
Secret Street – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
It wasn’t until Napoleon Bonaparte arrived, that the castle was completely destroyed and left in ruin.
Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
The park however does command a view of the lake and the town itself. One can also get a good view of the Angera Castle on the other side of the lake, which looks a lot more impressive than the one in Arona.
Arona – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
Arona – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
Lake Maggiore and Arona – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
Lake Maggiore – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
There is a small cafe where you can also stop and get some refreshment and enjoy the views.
Patti at cafe – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
Restaurants
Sancarlino
A small place with fewer than a dozen tables. It has good food and will get full after about 12:30, so get there early at opening for a seat. While we were eating, they were turning people away.
Kind of by luck and definitely by accident, we made our own religious pilgrimage on Easter Sunday. Our pre-planned trip was always to visit Domodossola, but only included our walk up the Via Calvario as an aside, or suggestion, if we had time. It ended up being the perfect event on a near perfect day, at least with respect to the weather.
Domodossola
A large city at the top edge of Italy with Switzerland. It is the last stop on the train line from Italy into its neighboring country. It is an odd mix of new with some very old parts. The streets are very clean and well maintained. Some of the buildings date back to Columbus’ day and actually look it.
Via Giovanni Capis – Domodossola, Italy
Entrance – Collegiata dei Santi Gervaso e Protaso – Via Giovanni Capis – Domodossola, Italy
Nave – Collegiata dei Santi Gervaso e Protaso – Via Giovanni Capis – Domodossola, Italy
Narrow Streets – Domodossola, Italy
The city has the usual fountains and piazzas. Since it was a holiday, all museums and other tourist related buildings and facilities were closed. However, we did find some shops and restaurants that would normally be closed on a Sunday, open.
Piazza Fountana – Domodossola, Italy
One Of The Main Streets – Domodossola, Italy
Buildings Of All Shapes And Sizes – Domodossola, Italy
Very Old Building – Domodossola, Italy
Beautifully Cobbled Streets – Domodossola, Italy
Pretty Architecture – Domodossola, Italy
Getting There
We took one of the Regional Express trains from Stresa and we were there within a half an hour. Unexpectedly, we were stopped by police inside the train station after we got off the train. I guess it was probably because there were no other IC or EC trains going into Switzerland, so they had nothing better to do. They asked me for my travel documents and luckily I had my new wallet sized US passport. They took a photograph of it, exclaimed that it was the first time they saw one and let me pass. My wife told them all she had was a driver’s license, but the quickly looked at her and said no problem, go through. Yeah, they don’t profile in Italy. So, if you are traveling close to the Swiss border in Italy, bring your passport and travel documents, you never know, you might be stopped!
On Our Way To Domodossola – Train Station – Stresa, Italy
Train Station – Domodossola, Italy
Train Station – Domodossola, Italy
Streets – Domodossola, Italy
Monte Calvario
To see the fifteen chapels and stations of the cross, you have to climb Monte Calvario. You arrive at the mount by the Via Calvario, a street which can be found off the Via Matterella.
Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
The first thing you will see is a small church or chapel with a large sign explaining the origins, history and design of the entire idea.
Church – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Church – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Doors on the Church – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Doors on the Church – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
A bit further down this road will be the start of the Via Calvario. At first, the first four chapels come fast and furious.
Cherry Trees – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Crossing to Monte Calvario – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – First Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Mountains – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Second Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Second Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Third Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Third Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Once the road starts to incline, it might be better to walk on the flat pavement stones in the middle, or the outer edges if you have to, because after a short while the vertically set stones will take a toll on your feet.
The Long Way Up – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Fourth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Fourth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Then the incline increases and it takes a bit longer to get to the next four. But, our weather was extremely pleasant, sunny and in the middle sixty degrees Fahrenheit.
Chapel – Fifth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Sixth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Fifth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Sixth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Climb To The Seventh Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Mountains In Early Spring – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Patti – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Seventh Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Seventh Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Seventh Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Final Stairs To The Top – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
The Town With Mountains Behind – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Grounds On Top – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Once you have reached the eigth station, you are more on less on the top of the mount. Here you will find the remaining four, eight, nine, ten and eleven.
Chapel – Eigth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Eigth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Ninth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Ninth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Tenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Tenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Eleventh Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Eleventh Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
The twelfth and thirteenth are actually in the Church of the Holy Crucifix. A beautiful little church and chapel with real candles that may be lit for prayers.
Church Del SS Crocifisso – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Church Del SS Crocifisso – Twelfth And Thirteenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Church Del SS Crocifisso – Twelfth And Thirteenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Church Del SS Crocifisso – Twelfth And Thirteenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
The remaining stations are outside again. We only managed to find the fifteenth station, since it is right next to an overview of the city. The other, was below by the cafe, which we had no interest at that point in visiting.
Chapel – Fifteenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Fifteenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
View Of Domodossola And Mountains – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Patti – Domodossola And Mountains – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Restaurants
After walking the city for about an hour, we found a bistro for lunch. We only order salads and cannot say much about the quality of their steak, which seems to be their primary offering. However, had we known better, there was a quaint little Osteria not far from there that was actually serving an Easter dinner, with lamb and all usual italian side dishes. Oh well, our loss.
With this post we will note that we have seen a marked increase in restaurant prices. Not only for food, but drinks as well. Perhaps not exspensive as the States, but they are getting up there.
Restaurant Bistro Steak House
As a Insalata Greco goes, they were okay. About medium in size and they didn’t have a lot of Feta cheese on them, so the owner is a bit cheap. But the food was okay and not terribly expensive. I would say, if you have time, find somewhere else, but the food is fine otherwise, though you may find the service more than lacking, especially after you receive your food.
Entrance – Bisto Steak House – Domodossola, Italy
Insalata Mista – Bisto Steak House – Domodossola, Italy
Another good tip, at least for here, but we have seen it elsewhere too. If you are done and have already told them so, get up and go to the bar (Cassa) and pay, don’t wait for them to come back. You may sprout some new grey hairs if you do.
Enjoying the beautiful weather in Turin, we looked at each other one day and exclaimed it was time to go somewhere local again. Seeing a weather prediction of rain about a week and half out, we decided to travel to Stresa and Lake Maggiore for our Easter weekend. Little did we know, everyone else in Italy, France and Germany was thinking the same thing! So be warned, Easter may be a very busy weekend on the lake.
Patti and the giant Easter Egg – Easter – Regina Palace Hotel – Stresa, Italy
Patti Browsing Scarfs – Stresa, Italy
Stresa
We have been in Stresa before and enjoyed it thoroughly the last time. We rebooked the same hotel for five nights and left Turin, destined for new adventures in this beautiful lake area.
Piazza Luigi Cardona – Stresa, Italy
Via Principe Tomaso – Stresa, Italy
Getting There
From Turin we took the Freccia Rossa from Torino Porta Nuovo to Milan Rho-Fiera and then one of the Regional Express trains to Stresa for a total trip time of about two hours.
The City Streets – Stresa, Italy
Where We Stayed
We stayed at the Regina Palace Hotel again, since we had such a good time on our previous visit. From there we were able to witness a forest fire that broke out on the other side of the lake. It burned for two days and was finally put out with the help of helicopters.
Forest Fire In Laveno – Stresa, Italy
Forest Fire In Laveno – Stresa, Italy
Regina Palace Hotel
Unfortunately, our booking put us in a rather large room, number 115, which was located right above the bar and almost directly in front of the main stairwell. The noise on our first evening was ridiculous and I did not get to sleep until some time after twelve.
Regina Palace Hotel – Corso Umberto I – Stresa, Italy
Regina Palace Hotel – Corso Umberto I – Stresa, Italy
Regina Palace Hotel – Corso Umberto I – Stresa, Italy
The bar plays music from seven in the evening until midnight, and the later it got, the louder it got. So the next morning, I had our room moved to one of the extremities of the hotel, which was much quieter and overall much more enjoyable.
Corso Umberto I – Stresa, Italy
Regina Palace Hotel – Corso Umberto I – Stresa, Italy
Regina Palace Hotel – Afternoon View – Stresa, Italy
Regina Palace Hotel – Afternoon View – Stresa, Italy
Lungolago
Stresa has a beautiful boardwalk along the lake. It winds its way along the western side, all the way down to Piazzale Lido, another boat launch on the lake. There is only one short stretch you have to walk along the road, which is where the Borromeo estates are located, since they have complete lake access. Other than that, it’s a fine walk to enjoy the view and take photographs.
Lungolago – Isola Bella – Stresa, Italy
Lungolago – Isola Bella and Pescatore – Stresa, Italy
Water Fountain – Stresa, Italy
Restaurants
Since we have been to Stresa before, our concentration was more on day trips from the location, rather than visiting the city itself. However, we were able to enjoy some restaurants and cafes while we were here.
Il Vicoletto Ristoranti
A typical italian restaurant that serves fine food. The service is good and the meals are well portioned and taste great.
Patti – Il Vicoletto Ristoranti – Stresa, Italy
Menu – Il Vicoletto Ristoranti – Stresa, Italy
Erick – Il Vicoletto Ristoranti – Stresa, Italy
The desserts are exceptional, from the Almond Torte to the Panna Cotta, and commendable.
Tagliatelli with Broccoli Rabe and Sausage – Il Vicoletto Ristoranti – Stresa, Italy
Plin Sugo and Sage – Il Vicoletto Ristoranti – Stresa, Italy
Almond Torte – Il Vicoletto Ristoranti – Stresa, Italy
Panna cotta al Mojto – Il Vicoletto Ristoranti – Stresa, Italy
Al Buscion
More of a cafe or bistro, this little place has something for everyone. It is one of the few places in Stresa, where you will find more than one kind of soup being served. It is more known for its charcuterie boards and paninis, than anything else, though we never had the chance to order one.
Menu – Al Buscion Cafe – Stresa, Italy
Inside – Al Buscion Cafe – Stresa, Italy
La Piola
If you like finer dining, then look no further than La Piola.
Patti – La Piola Cafe – Stresa, Italy
Inside – La Piola Cafe – Stresa, Italy
We thoroughly enjoyed the food here, though we didn’t order any dessert. The pasta dish was excellent and very tasty, and Patti enjoyed here Chicken Cutlet as well.
Filetto of Chicken – La Piola Cafe – Stresa, Italy
Spaghetti – La Piola Cafe – Stresa, Italy
El Gato Negro Cafe
We stopped at El Gato Negro for a late lunch and glad we did. They have very tasty soups, salads and sandwiches at very reasonable prices. The pastrami sandwich, though not like pastrami in the States, was delicious. It had an exceptional dressing on it that complimented the tomatoes, lettuce and pastrami to perfection.
Terrace – El Gato Negro Cafe – Stresa, Italy
Pastrami sandwich – El Gato Negro Cafe – Stresa, Italy
Il Centrale
Though inside the city a bit, it is more of a tourist trap restaurant than any of the other ones we have patronized. If you are looking for something to eat, you cannot go wrong here, but it is definitely nothing special.
Placesetting – El Gato Negro Cafe – Stresa, Italy
The food is okay and the service is a bit slow. But for what you get, we found them a bit pricey and the coperto[1]This is a cover charge in Italy. It is suppose to offset the fee of table linens, cutlery, napkins, etc., and is applied unevenly throughout the country. It will most often be found in tourist areas, … Continue reading was a bit high for our liking.
Plin al sugo and Salad – Il Centrale – Stresa, Italy
This is a cover charge in Italy. It is suppose to offset the fee of table linens, cutlery, napkins, etc., and is applied unevenly throughout the country. It will most often be found in tourist areas, where the establishments can get away with charging it. If so, DO NOT leave a tip, you’re covered.
A former eminent place where most woolen products came from in Italy is the city of Biella. As far back as the thirteenth century, the city has been known for its fine wool fabrics and products. However, with the recent globalization of products and competition of the early twenty-first century, many of the factories and businesses associated with that industry have gone away, creating what some might term – the woolen woes.
Waiting for Tram 13 – Vittoria Veneto Piazza – Turin, Italy
Torino Porta Susa Train Station – Turin, Italy
Torino Porta Susa Train Station – Turin, Italy
The Alps From Our Train To Biella – Turin, Italy
The Alps From Our Train To Biella – Turin, Italy
Biella San Paolo Train Station – Biella, Italy
Biella
The city sits at the foot of the eponymous mountain range of the Biellese Alps. It has been so affected by the wool industry’s decline and other issues, that it is considering cutting back on some municipal services, including the possible cessation of the funicular, or the Funicolare del Piazzo, which was severely damaged by past weather events.
Outdoor Market – Biella, Italy
Getting There
We took the train from Turin’s Porta Susa to Biella. It is easy and very cost effective and only takes about an hour.
Biella San Paolo Train Station – Biella, Italy
Biella San Paolo Train Station – Biella, Italy
Though a very liveable city, it is fairly quiet, but we found lacking in some amenities. It is also not a very pretty city, it had many empty stores while we were here and many buildings appeared to have maintenance issues. However, if you did not stray far from the main street of Via Italia you wouldn’t notice.
Entering Town – Biella, Italy
Typical Fascist Period Building – Via Torino – Biella, Italy
San Paolo Church Tower – Via Torino – Biella, Italy
SP338 – Biella, Italy
Zumaglini Park – Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Zumaglini Park – Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Old Building – Via S. Filippo and Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Piazza Biella
On the west side of the city, on top of the hill, is the Piazza Biella. A fifteen to twenty minute walk up the Costa del Piazza will bring you to the upper part of town. The cobbled street is a bit treacherous, so take care, especially if the weather is bad, the stones are quite slippery, even when dry.
Via Cerino Zegna – Biella, Italy
Patti – Costa del Piazzo – Biella, Italy
Costa del Piazzo – Biella, Italy
Patti – Costa del Piazzo – Biella, Italy
Patti – Costa del Piazzo – Biella, Italy
Costa del Noci – Costa del Piazzo – Biella, Italy
Here you will find the Piazza Biella, which has a few cafes and bars to enjoy. Aside from that, it is very quiet.
Piazza Biella – Biella, Italy
Church of San Giacomo – Piazza Biella – Biella, Italy
Close by is the Piazza Mario Cucco, from where you will be able to get a fantastic view of the Biellese Alps.
Piazza Mario Cucco – Biella, Italy
Patti With The Alps In Background – Piazza Mario Cucco – Biella, Italy
Erick With The Alps In Background – Piazza Mario Cucco – Biella, Italy
Piazza Mario Cucco – Biella, Italy
Piazza Mario Cucco – Biella, Italy
Old Buildings – Piazza Mario Cucco – Biella, Italy
One the way down, we took the Costa San Sebastiano, which led us directly to the Basilica of San Sebastiano in Biella.
Patti – Costa San Sebastiano – Biella, Italy
Costa San Sebastiano – Biella, Italy
Costa San Sebastiano – Biella, Italy
Basilica Biella
The Basilica of San Sebastiano, together with the monastery of San Girolamo, stands as the pinnacle of the Biella Renaissance. Commissioned and funded by Sebastiano Ferrero, it featured artists from the Lombardy region for its masonry work. The church’s foundation stone was laid in 1500, and in honor of the patron, it was dedicated to San Sebastiano. The construction was overseen by Maestro Eusebio, who was present during the laying of the foundation stone. By 1504, the church’s walls were already finished, but it wasn’t consecrated until 1540 by Monsignor Guglielmo di Gattinara, the Bishop of Nicomedia.
Entrance – Basilica San Sebastiano – Biella, Italy
Interior – Basilica San Sebastiano – Biella, Italy
Cathedral of Biella
From the outside the Biella Cathedral, or Cathedral of Saint Stefano Protomartire, might almost remind one of a mosque, if it weren’t for the cross on the apex of the roof.
Entrance and Front – Cathedral of Saint Mary Assunta – Biella, Italy
However, from the inside there is no mistaking it for anything other than a catholic cathedral. Interestingly, the interior contors of the colums and relief of the ceiling are all a visual illusion and one of the best examples of trompe-l’œil. This is where the intricate details are painted on the existing stone, plaster or masonry to mimick definition or relief, when in fact there is none.
Interior – Cathedral of Saint Mary Assunta – Biella, Italy
Interior – Cathedral of Saint Mary Assunta – Biella, Italy
If you look carefully you may find the original first foundation stone for the church, that is before it became of cathedral. It was set in the early fifteenth century and has been interpreted, first from the ancient latin, then into modern italian.
Foundation Stone – Cathedral of Saint Mary Assunta – Biella, Italy
The english translation would say, “1402, today on the 20th of March, construction of this church was begun by master Giovanni Borri.”
Foundation Stone Interpretation – Cathedral of Saint Mary Assunta – Biella, Italy
Biella Baptistery
Extremely close by the cathedral is the Baptistery of John the Baptist. Unfortunately, no entry is allowed. But a quick look of the outside and it is clear that it is a fairly old building.
Baptistry of John the Baptist – Via Battistero – Biella, Italy
Baptistry of John the Baptist – Via Battistero – Biella, Italy
Baptistry of John the Baptist – Via Battistero – Biella, Italy
Church of the Santissima Trinity
Directly off the Via Italia is the small church of Santissima Trinity. It has high vaulted ceilings with frescoes and a very ornate altar. Here again, the relief is mostly done using paint.
Church of the Santissima Trinity – Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Church of the Santissima Trinity – Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Church of the Santissima Trinity – Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Restaurants
Since this was a day trip, we only had time to enjoy lunch. At first we had some difficulty and our first choice, the higly rated L’Arrugginita on the upper side of town, was completely booked. Then we mistakenly sat down in what we thought was a neapolitan pizzeria, which turned out to actually be a poke bowl bistro. Then finally we found Ristorante Il Salotto.
Ristorante Il Salotto
A very fine place for lunch, Il Salotto offers a tasty fixed priced menu at €17 for pasta (primi only), or €24 for the two course lunch (primi and secundi). For the extra seven euros a piece, we were able to order two primi pasta dishes and two secundi meat dishes, with bread, a glass of wine and water for total of €51.
Entrance – Ristorante Il Salotto – Biella, Italy
Interior – Ristorante Il Salotto – Biella, Italy
Interior – Ristorante Il Salotto – Biella, Italy
Interior – Ristorante Il Salotto – Biella, Italy
The food was excellent, as was the service and decor. If you are ever in Biella, definitely one of the places to eat.
Ravioli with Cabbage and Meat – Ristorante Il Salotto – Biella, Italy
Pork Tenderloin in sauce with pickled onions – Ristorante Il Salotto – Biella, Italy
Grüezi! After our travels in the interior of Switzerland, we spent a few days in Zürich prior to our return. The decision was one out of convenience, since Zürich airport was the closest offering international travel back to the states.
Getting There
Since we were starting from Wengen, we had to take the the Wengneralpenbahn to Lauterbrunnen and then the Berner Oberlandbahn from there to Interlaken Ost. From Interlaken Ost to Bern we still had free fare with our Oberlandbahn passes, so we only had to book first class tickets from there to Zürich. Then we purchased seat reservations for the entire trip using the Swiss Half Fare card.
Wengneralpenbahn – New Snow in Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen, Switzerland
Wengneralpenbahn – New Snow in Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen, Switzerland
A word about the Swiss Half Fare card and Berner Oberlandbahn pass. If you are only passing through the region it probably does not pay to get these, the initial cost is rather high. However, if you are staying in the region for an extended period of time and plan on traveling within it, then it definitely pays for itself.
Train Trip to Zürich – Thunersee, Switzerland
Train Trip to Zürich – Thunersee, Switzerland
Zürich
A modern city by any standard, it is situated on the eponymous lake and also enjoys the dissection of the Limmat and Sihl rivers, as well as a canal and several minor streams.
Schanzengraben – Zürich, Switzerland
Market – Zürich, Switzerland
Bahnhofstrasse – Zürich, Switzerland
The Altstadt, or old city, is partially on a small island, being bounded by the lake, the Limmat river and the Schanzengraben canal, the remaining part lieing to the east of the Limmat, which at one time had also been bounded by the Sielengraben and Hirschengraben moats (which have both been filled in).
The Münsterhof, Münsterbrücke and the Limmatquai are probably the must see places for this city. There are plenty of restaurants in and around this area, as well as shops and other places of business.
We both felt that Zürich as a destination in itself does not offer much, but it is definitely worth of few days in your schedule if you are just passing through the area.
Limmat River – Zürich, Switzerland
Limmat River – Zürich, Switzerland
Limmat River – Zürich, Switzerland
Limmat River – Zürich, Switzerland
Zürichersee – Zürich, Switzerland
Limmat River – Zürich, Switzerland
Limmat River At Night – Zürich, Switzerland
Grüezi – Zürich, Switzerland
Hotels
Hotel Glärnischhof
The Hotel Glärnischhof is situated close the Schanzengraben canal and the Zürichersee, or Lake Zurich. It provides a good location to the old city, as well as the lake for relaxing strolls, boat rides and other forms of entertainment. We did not find many restaurants in the area, so we did have to walk into the old city center each night for dinner.
Hotel Glärnischhof – Main Entrance – Zürich, Switzerland
Hotel Glärnischhof – Side – Zürich, Switzerland
Hotel Glärnischhof – Lobby – Zürich, Switzerland
Restaurants
Zeughauskeller
The Zeughauskeller Restaurant has exactly that, a bunch of military junk and oddities in a building, hanging from the walls or ceiling. It provides interesting things to look at while you are eating your sausages and drinking your beer.
Zeughauskeller Restaurant, Bahnhofstrass, In Gasse – Main Entrance – Zürich, Switzerland
Zeughauskeller Restaurant, Bahnhofstrass, In Gasse – Main Entrance – Zürich, Switzerland
As for sausage, they make it locally and sell some of it by the meter, apparently to go along with that liter of beer (ein Maß) you are going to order. We were even witness to a bit of excitement when the kitchen staff had a small mishap near our table and they gave me a coupon for 20 Swiss Francs for the disturbance. I graciously accepted it using my poor German.
Zeughauskeller Restaurant – Sausage By The Meter – Zürich, Switzerland
Zeughauskeller Restaurant – Jason – Ein Maß Bier Bitte – Zürich, Switzerland
Along the northern banks of the Thunersee, or Lake Thun, about thirty minutes from Interlaken you will find the caves of Saint Beatus. Though not as grand as some of the other caves we have seen, they are still worth visiting and at 13.50 Swiss Francs for entry per person, they are fairly reasonable to afford.
Tickets For Two – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Wengneralpenbahn – Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen, Switzerland
Wengneralpenbahn – Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen, Switzerland
Wengneralpenbahn – Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen, Switzerland
Wengneralpenbahn – Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen, Switzerland
Once we arrived in Interlaken Ost, there was a short walk to the other side of town, Interlaken West train station, to wait for Bus 21 which took us directly to the caves of Saint Beatus and later back. Again, we purchased the Oberlander Pass, so there were no charges for this ride which is normally around 9 Swiss Francs for a round trip.
Bus Ride to Saint Beatus Höhlen – Thunersee – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Bus Ride to Saint Beatus Höhlen – Thunersee – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Bus Ride to Saint Beatus Höhlen – Thunersee – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Bus Ride to Saint Beatus Höhlen – Thunersee – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Bus Ride to Saint Beatus Höhlen – Thunersee – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Interlaken
Since our bus was leaving from the other side of town, we had plenty of time to wander through the town and bit and enjoy some of its charm. The river Aare runs between Lake Thun and Lake Brienz here and the parks along it are understandably decorated to make it the perfect backdrop for photographs.
Patti – Aare River – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Höhematte Park – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Höhematte Park – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Saint Beatus Höhlen
When you arrive at Saint Beatus Höhlen, or caves, you are welcomed with a large waterfall. This swift moving water which comes from the upper watershed area and quickly moves through the rocks towards it destination in Lake Thun, is responsible for carving out the long necklace of caves that you are able to hike.
Bus Stop – Main Entrance – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Main Entrance – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
It is damp, wet and a bit chilly in the caves so bring something a little warm. The overall duration of the walk through the caves is about forty minutes or so, depending on how much time you stop to take photographs.
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
When you finally exit the caves there is a nice refreshment stand where you may purchase food and drinks, at the customary inflated prices.
Patti and Ericka – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Restaurants
Upon our return to Wengen we had dinner reservations at the Lecker Asia Restaurant, our break from the local cuisine.
Lecker Asia Restaurant
Lecker in German means tasty and the food here is definitely tasty. A good break from the fusion of French and German cuisines that we have been eating all week. It is a small restaurant with limited seating, so reservations is a must, since it does get full quickly during dinner time.
Lecker Asia Restaurant – Inside – Wengen, Switzerland
Lecker Asia Restaurant – Inside – Wengen, Switzerland
All the food was very good and spiced to your taste, without any unnecessary salt or MSG to worry about. Even though we were seven people with one baby and one toddler, they were still able to accommodate us.
Lecker Asia Restaurant – Chinese Food – Wengen, Switzerland
Lecker Asia Restaurant – Chinese Food – Wengen, Switzerland
The Jungfraujoch, or maiden’s saddle, has been reachable by train since the early twentieth century. The observatory commands a special view of the Aletsch Glacier, the Jungfrau, Mönch and the surrounding area; on a beautiful day it is quite something to see. Unfortunately, this time we had to contend with bad weather and strong winds. Our last visit was in 2020.
Eiger North Wall – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Getting There
We left Wengen using the Wengernalpbahn train to Kleine Scheidegg. With our Bernese Oberlander Pass, we purchased tickets for half price.
Going To Kleine Scheidegg – Wengernalpbahn – Wengen, Switzerland
Going To Kleine Scheidegg, Leaving Wengen – Wengernalpbahn – Wengen, Switzerland
Going To Kleine Scheidegg, Leaving Wengen – Wengernalpbahn – Wengen, Switzerland
Oberland Pass Map
Below are the transportation routes that can be used free of charge (solid lines) and those routes at half price (dotted) with the pass.
Bernese Oberland Pass – Map Of Routes – Wengen, Switzerland
Kleine Scheidegg
Known as the small pass between the farmers in Grindelwald and its valley and the rest of Switzerland, the Kleine Scheidegg became more important than it’s sister route the Grosse Scheidegg when tourism and the railroad to the mountains became an attraction.
Welcome Map – Jungfrau Region – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Eiger Glacier – Jungfraujoch, Switzerland
Jungfrau, Blüemlisalp and Gspaltenhorn – Lauterbrunnen Valley – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Blüemlisalp and Gspaltenhorn in Clouds – Lauterbrunnen Valley – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Jungfrau in Clouds – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
It is a terminal train station, since all trains from here use different gauge track and are very specialized, thus changing trains to reach your destination is necessary.
Station Kleine Scheidegg – Wengernalpbahn – Wengen, Switzerland
Leaving Kleine Scheidegg – Jungfraubahn – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Leaving Kleine Scheidegg – Jungfraubahn – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Leaving Kleine Scheidegg – Jungfraubahn – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
The view from here of the Eiger is worth noting. When the weather is good it provides an excellent view of the north face that rivals that obtained from Grindelwald.
Hotel Bellevue – North Wall and West Face, Eiger – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
North Wall and West Face, Eiger – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Hotel Bellevue – North Wall and West Face, Eiger – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Jungfraujoch
The so called Top Of Europe, or Jungfraujoch, is reached by the Jungfraubahn, which is the highest operating European train at over ten thousand feet. When you arrive the first thing you may notice is the thin air and difficulty breathing.
Since the weather had been on the inclement side, what better place to visit than Lauterbrunnen, from where at least eight waterfalls of note may be seen.
Staubbach Falls – Main Street – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Getting There
From Wengen we took the Wengernalp Railway using our Oberlander Pass, since it covers travel in this region and Lauterbrunnen is the end station on this line.
Lauterbrunnen
Lauterbrunnen is again a typical alpine resort town with one main street dotted with shops and little else. It is the town you park you vehicle if you are staying in Wengen (since no vehicles are allowed).
Main Street – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
The main street leads through the town from the train station and continues all the way to the end of the valley, however only after many name changes along the way.
Mettelnalp – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Schiltwaldbachfall – Village Reformed Church – – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Staubbach Falls – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Mettlenalp – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Staubbach Falls – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Almenhubel – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Once outside town the road narrows a bit, but offers a good path to have a long lazy hike down the valley. Cars are few, even though there are several camping sites along the way and parking lots for vehicles.
Staubbach Falls – Main Street – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Buchenbachfall – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Almenhubel – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Staubbach Falls – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
The Weisse Lütschine river flows the length of the valley as it gathers up many small tributaries that add to its volume along the way. During our walk you could hear its constant roar in the background.
Mettlenalp – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Buchenbachfall – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Restaurants
Once we returned to Wengen, we had reservations and ate dinner at the following restaurant.
Berghaus Restaurant
This resort and hotel restaurant is small and offers traditional German and Swiss dishes. The author can recommend the Apple Strudel, it was very tasty, not ruined by sugar like in the States.
Berghaus Restaurant – Main Entrance – Wengen, Switzerland
Berghaus Restaurant – Herb Soup – Wengen, Switzerland
Berghaus Restaurant – Schnitzel With Fries – Wengen, Switzerland
After Lake Leman we planned a return to the Bernese Alps and chose Wengen at the behest of other family members. We had previously been to Grindelwald and had spent some time there, so we knew the area well, although we had never visited the Lauterbrunnen Valley. In preparation for this trip, we purchased the following tickets and discount cards to help in managing expenses.
The Swiss Half Fare Card – provides half fare prices on all travel, including cable cars and other forms of transportation
The Oberländer Pass – provides access to all modes of transportation within the Oberland, can be purchased using the Half Fare card above.
The GoldenPass Express – since it is a special train, it is included in the Oberlander Pass, but if you want reserved seating, use the Half Fare card the price for First Class, it is still quite reasonable and perhaps the way to go for medium to large groups (we were a party of six).
Getting There
From Montreux, Switzerland we enjoyed the GoldenPass Express train to Interlaken Ost, the train station that lies between the lakes Thunersee and Brienzersee, just outside the Lauterbrunnen Valley.
Montreux Train Station – Montreux, Switzerland
Goldenpass Express – Montreux Train Station – Montreux, Switzerland
Goldenpass Express – Montreux Train Station – Montreux, Switzerland
It winds through the Cantons of Vaud and Bern, through the Simmental valley where there are pastoral views to enjoy.
Lake Leman – GoldenPass Train – Montreux, Switzerland
Lake Leman – GoldenPass Train – Montreux, Switzerland
Lake Thun – GoldenPass Train – Interlaken, Switzerland
Lake Thun – GoldenPass Train – Interlaken, Switzerland
Lake Thun – GoldenPass Train – Interlaken, Switzerland
Wengen The Town
Wengen is a classic Swiss ski town, having a single avenue with shops and stores catering to souvenir hunters, hotels spread throughout the surrounding area with accompanied restaurants, as well as standalone restaurants offering specialities and train and cable car stations. One thing it doesn’t have are private cars, they are not allowed here and one must park in Lauterbrunnen and take the train to visit.
Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen Town – Wengen, Switzerland
Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen Town – Wengen, Switzerland
Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen Town – Wengen, Switzerland
Beautiful Rainy Evening – Wengen, Switzerland
Beautiful Rainy Evening – Wengen, Switzerland
Hotel Jungfraublick
Our hotel during our stay was the Jungfraublick hotel, a three star hotel with restaurant. It supplied a complimentary continental breakfast in the morning, but its linen service proved to be somewhat of a problem and each day we had to ask for things we should have been supplied.
Aside from that, we didn’t see much of the Jungfrau, the third tallest mountain in the Bernese Alps, due to weather and the constant threat of rain or snow.
Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen Train – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen Town – Wengen, Switzerland
Restaurants
Even though it was slightly off-season, we made reservations for all the restaurants we visited and it is probably advised, we found most of them fairly busy during regular dinner hours.
Da Sine Ristorante
On our first day in Wengen, we ate here for lunch. They have excellent Italian food at somewhat reasonable prices for Switzerland.
Da Sina Ristorante – Main Entrance – Wengen, Switzerland
Da Sina Ristorante – Main Entrance – Wengen, Switzerland
Caprice Ristorante
The Caprice restaurant also offers Italian food and is very good. It can be found at the Maya Caprice Boutique Hotel and there prices are also in line with what other restaurants are charging in the area.
