Ostuni, Italy – Città Bianca

Often referred to as La Città Bianca, or the White City, from certain vantage points, it does appear somewhat like the houses on Santorini island of the Greek Archipelago. It is however difficult getting a good photograph that represents it from a distance, unless you drive a car.

Panoramic view of the Adriatic – Ostuni, Italy

Getting There

A twenty minute train ride from Brindisi Centrale and a five minute bus drive from Ostuni Zona Sisri, is the small ancient city of Ostuni. The trains run at least every hour in both directions and perhaps even more often around rush hour times.

Follow the signs to the bus stop – Ostuni, Italy

Fermata, bus stop – Green Times – Ostuni, Italy

Even more importantly, it should be noted that getting back, not all Fermata are active where the bus should stop. Apparently, during the off-season the only one that remains active is the one at via tenente Specchia, where we were left off at the start of our journey. So plan on returning there and not at the one of the other two bus stops sometimes indicated in the city by other information sources.

Sign indicating Fermata closed from 13th January – Ostuni, Italy

The White City

The White City, or the Città Bianca^[1]which is actually the Città Vecchia or old city, is located on a mount or hill with a commanding view of the plain below. The newer part of the city stretches out towards the south and is rather residential and nondescript in nature.

Santuario Madonna della Grata – Ostuni, Italy

While in the main piazza, or Piazza della Libertà, this is a good place to stop for a coffee or drink. Here you will find several things to see, including the Colonna di Sant’Oronzo and the Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi.

Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi – Entrance – Ostuni, Italy

Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi – Nave – Ostuni, Italy

Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi – Ceiling – Ostuni, Italy

Comune Di Ostuni & Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi – Ostuni, Italy

Ahead, the climb is not that bad, but the city streets and passageways are rather serpentine and have a myriad of steps that go up and down, so bring rested legs. We spent a good part of a day here, we walked and climbed all over the place and traveled just over seven miles.

Steps up to part of the city – Ostuni, Italy

The Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta and Arco Scoppa are located in the same place in the Centro Storico di Ostuni at the top of the hill.

Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta – Ostuni, Italy

Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta – Nave – Ostuni, Italy

Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta – Ceiling – Ostuni, Italy

Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta – Old Wooden Doors and Old Iron Hinges – Ostuni, Italy

While meandering through the streets of Ostuni, we noticed several interesting doorways that had unusual flourishes and ornate features.

Aside from that, there are mostly lazy narrow streets, stairways and white houses in the city. From time to time, you will come across places to eat, but during this time of year, most of them are closed. They most likely open later in the March timeframe, when the tourist activity picks up.

Way to the north part of the Citta Vecchio – Ostuni, Italy

Restaurants

Al Cortiletto Vino e Birra Ostuni

The Al Cortiletto Vino e Birra Ostuni restaurant offers typical Italian food with some Pugliese items thrown in, so there is something for everyone. We had met some fellow travelers while on the bus from the Ostuni train station with whom we engaged in conversation during the ride. In order to finish what we had begun, they suggested we meet for lunch and this is the place they picked.

Patti and I ordered and shared the Bruschetta. Then she ordered a Tuna Salad and I had the Cheese Gnocchi with ragu. Unfortunately, we took no photographs and you will have to build a mental image of what we ate.

When we left, Roland and Amanda were on their way back to Lecce, where we are headed tomorrow and we returned to Brindisi. We traded telephone numbers and promised to stay in touch for a lunch or dinner when there, since they will still be there during our visit later this week into next.

References[+]

References
↑1	which is actually the Città Vecchia or old city

4 February, 20256 February, 2025

Brindisi, Italy – Rainy Day Detour

Brindisi, Italy – A Rainy Day Detour

If it is raining out and there is not much else to do, then a trip to Brindisi could be the cure for your rainy day. Though not much to see, nor much to look at, Brindisi does offer a few points of interest. We mainly used it for a short respite during our eighteen day visit to Mezzogiorno.

Getting To Brindisi

From Bari we reserved seats on the FrecciaArgento^[1]FrecciaArgento, or TrennItalia’s Silver Arrow service, as opposed to the FrecciaRosso, or Red Arrow service in other areas which only takes a hour. There are other regional offerings, however they usually take longer but are less expensive, so there are options.

Bari Centrale – Waiting for our FrecciaArgento – Bari, Italy

Brindisi does have a airport that is serviced by RyanAir. While here we saw several airplanes land and take off during the day and the airport was directly across the water on the other side of the city from our hotel.

Bindisi The City

Brindisi’s Citta Vecchia, or historical center, is a bit elongated but does reach to the bay where the port is located. The Corso Roma is the main avenue for shopping, though it cannot be compared to the one in Bari or other larger towns or cities we have visited along the coast.

Piazza Il Duomo And The Roman Column

The Piazza Il Duomo has the Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista and some other sites to see. The cathedral is rather plain inside, but somewhat impressive from the outside.

Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista – Brindisi, Italy

Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista – Modern Interior – Brindisi, Italy

The Colonne Romane, or Roman Column, was erected in the city to define one of the endpoints of the Appian Way, or the extent of Rome. Others have countered that they were merely erected as a visual aid for mariners to know where the actual port was located. There were two originally, of which only one still exists in all of its glory, the other crumbled in the mid sixteenth century. The crumbled remains of the one were donated to Lecce for their column.

Grande Albergo Internazionale

Our hotel was the Grande Albergo Internazionale located on the Viale Regina Margherita down by the water. We booked a suite which overlooked the water.

It is a somewhat dated hotel, but has enough amenities to be comfortable. However, the outside and inside looks like it is in need of some restoration. Our room was spacious and the bathroom modern which was a big benefit.

Grande Albergo Internazionale – Patti in our room – Brindisi, Italy

Grande Albergo Internazionale – Our room – Brindisi, Italy

Grande Albergo Internazionale – Our fully equipped bathroom – Brindisi, Italy

Grande Albergo Internazionale – Restaurant for Breakfast – Brindisi, Italy

Grande Albergo Internazionale – Outside our window – Brindisi, Italy

Lungomare di Brindisi

As the name implies, you are able to walk along the water for some length along the Lungomare di Brindisi. It starts near the parking area when you enter the port down to, but no further than the Approdo delle Indie. After that begins an Italian Naval Base and you are redirected up a set of stairs and away from the shore.

Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Italian Mariner monument from the Lungomare di Brindisi – Brindisi, Italy

Brindisi Shuttle Service

From the Lungomare, or Viale Regina Margherita, about where it intersects with Piazza Vittorio Emanuele III is one location you can pick up the shuttle. It has a four stop route along the inlet and completes the circuit about once every twenty minutes. One use, simple route charge was 1.20€ per person, which only excepts contactless credit card or NFC contactless payments from your phone, NO CASH.

Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy

Dock on the Airport Side – Brindisi, Italy

Saint John At The Sepulchre

The St John At The Sepulchre is an ancient eleventh century Church of the Holy Sepulcher with circular construction built over a pre-existing church. It was built to resemble the ancient Anastasis Rotunda of the Holy Selpuchre in Jerusalem with the intention of providing a memory of that structure.

St John At The Sepulchre – Brindisi, Italy

The monument is intended to show the close relationship between Brindisi and the Holy Land during the time of the crusades. Built by the Knight Order of the Canons Regular sometime before 1128, it was conceived to give those who could not pilgrimage to the Holy Land a feeling for that destination, and for those who have, a reminder of it.

St John At The Sepulchre – Main Entrance – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Media Presentation – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Media Presentation Showing Route To Isreal – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Other Items – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Old Nails, Hinges – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Side Entrance Lintel – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Patio – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Garden In Back – Brindisi, Italy

The hole in the floor shows Roman mosaics belonging to a large Roman house dating back to the first and second century CE.

St John At The Sepulchre – Columns – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Roman Ruins – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Roof Timber Works – Brindisi, Italy

There are multiple frescoes on the walls depicting several different important themes of Christianity. All of which have been damaged by previous ownership, no doubt to repurpose the building for other uses.

St John At The Sepulchre – Deposition From The Cross, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Deesis, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Saint Inside Arcat, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Flagellation, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – The Virgin And The Child, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Pentecost, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy

St John At The Sepulchre – Saint George And The Dragon, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy

Porta Napoli

The Porta Napoli, also known as the Porta Mesagne, is the oldest entrance to the ancient city. It was constructed during Roman times by Marc Anthony to isolate the city from land side invasions. The Ruga Magistra or main street originated from this gate, which coincides today with via Carmine and via Filomeno Consiglio today.

Castello Svevo

Unlike the map that one of the major search providers tries to imply you can walk the entire way around bay to the Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia; this cannot be done. We found out the difficult way by walking to Castello Svevo or the Swabian Castle of Brindisi, only to find out that you cannot enter without a pass, it is an active Naval Base. Temporary passes can be obtained online, but there is a forty-eight hour waiting period (don’t ask – I have no idea why, however it is required before you may return and enter). Since we are not staying here that long we decided to forgo that pleasure.

Castello Svevo – Wall Battlements – Brindisi, Italy

Castello Svevo – Torrione dell’inferno – Brindisi, Italy

So, denied entry, we changed our plans and headed for the Fontana Tancredi, thinking that it might be a sight to see, and afterwards we could just walk toward the bay and find the Lungomare; no such luck on both accounts. Most of the area in and around the castle is restricted and cannot be entered, the fountain is fenced off, overgrown and only trickles water, so total failure on both accounts.

Via Provincial San Vito – Brindisi, Italy

Southern Italian Naval Base – Brindisi, Italy

In fact, they have very large naval ships anchored here as well temporary housing for illegal immigrants. We attempted to go as far as the tennis club, or Circolo Tennis Club, but then turned around. Had we known beforehand, we could have continued further and picked up the bay shuttle about a half kilometer further.

Castello Svevo – Map and where not to go – Brindisi, Italy

While walking back, we discovered the Santuario Santa Maria degli Angeli church. A nondescript church from the outside offers a better view from the inside. If you are in the area of Via Ferrante Fornari and see the church, it is worth to stick your head in and take a look.

Santuario Santa Maria degli Angeli – Brindisi, Italy

Santuario Santa Maria degli Angeli – Nave and Ceiling – Brindisi, Italy

Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia

The large monument across the bay is the Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia, a naval monument erected for the fallen navy personal of Italy. It has two shore guns on either side and may be climbed for a fee, there is a lookout on the top that has a commanding view of the city.

Restaurants

Most of the restaurants that we visited were down by the water and along the Lungomare.

Ristorante Windsurf

We chose this restaurant out of convenience, mostly because of the rain and threat of thunderstorms, and glad we did because while we were eating it poured. It was also conveniently located thirty meters from our hotel entrance.

Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – Lobster tank – Brindisi, Italy

Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – Patti waiting for food – Brindisi, Italy

The food is typical pizzeria food with a concentration on sea food for everything else. I chose a pizza and Patti stuck with a panini that they offered on the menu. The Negroamaro from Puglia was actually very nice, dry but not overly tannic.

Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – Patti’s Panini – Brindisi, Italy

Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – Erick’s Pizza with Copacola – Brindisi, Italy

Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – Erick’s Pannacota with strawberry sauce – Brindisi, Italy

Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – Patti’s Tartufo – Brindisi, Italy

Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – A Negroamaro from Puglia – Brindisi, Italy

Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi

A similar cafe and pizzeria as WindSurf is Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi, located just below the stairs to the Roman Column. We stopped here for a simple lunch consisting of salads, bread and pizza points. The wine was house wine, but was very good.

Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi – Patti’s Green Salad With Fruit And Nuts – Brindisi, Italy

We also stopped later in the evening for dinner, since they were one of the few restaurants around showing pasta with ragu sauce on their menus. Patti ordered the Penne all’Arrabbiata and I ordered the Tagliatelle al Ragú.

Final Thoughts

Although we both thought that Brindisi is rather clean and has some things to offer, we weren’t so sure that we visit, if we didn’t have so much time on our hands being retired. Therefore, for the casual visitor to Italy, we would not commend a visit, Bari and Trani have more to offer.

References[+]

References
↑1	FrecciaArgento, or TrennItalia’s Silver Arrow service, as opposed to the FrecciaRosso, or Red Arrow service in other areas

2 February, 20252 February, 2025

Trani, Italy – Unexpected Delight

On a lark, Patti decided to go to Trani, Italy for the day. The morning was clear, blue and fantastic, so we could not expect better weather.

Trani is a seaside town on the Adriatic Sea in the region of Apulia. It has great wine, olive oil and food. It has an active fishing community which supports the local economy.

Lungomare Cristoforo Columbo – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy

Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy

Lighthouses – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani – Basilica from the castle – Trani, Italy

The City

The city itself is well laid out, even for an ancient town. The historic center though windy and curvy is very clean and well labeled for tourist. After about an hour here we found it a most unexpected delight and were glad we came.

Chiesa Beata Maria Vergine del Monte Carmelo (o del Carmine) – Trani, Italy

Piazza Sacra Regia Udienza – Port of Trani – Trani, Italy

The Golden or Ancient door – Trani, Italy

The Piazze Quercia has a least one cafe or bar which has outside seating. It is a great place in the spring to stop before lunch and get a drink. We find it relaxing just to watch the locals and the boats going in and out of the harbor, and of course, enjoying the sunshine and the fifty degree weather.

Campari and Aperol Spritz, Mole 4 – Piazze Quercia – Trani, Italy

The Port Of Trani

There is a beautiful walkway or sidewalk that enables you to walk around the entire port. Unlike Bari, where you can do this if you can tolerate the smell, the port is clean and well maintained.

Live shrimp – Port of Trani – Trani, Italy

Fishing boats – Port of Trani – Trani, Italy

The fishing community appears to be active daily and some of the ships sell their catch right on the pier. You can find anything from live shrimp and fish to octopus. So, if you can cook in, bring your grocery bag and your wallet.

Parco Giochi Villa Comunale

The Parco Giochi Villa Comunale is located to the right of the Port of Trani as you walk as far as you can in the city. It has a portal that leads up to a great observation place, so that you get a commanding view of the boats and the jetties containing the lighthouses, which are all a different color.

Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy

Old Anchor – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy

War Memorial – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy

Lions protecting entrance – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy

Bar Boschetto – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy

Fishing boat going out to sea – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy

Park Seal – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy

There are some interesting monuments and an old anchor. Walking further, you will happen upon a aviary at the end of the park where they house parakeets.

We actually found it to be an amazing little park with little things to see, along with the aviary with parakeets they also have real parrots, which you will eventually notice are in the trees all around you. When we were here, they were all doing their crazy mating calls and dances on the ground, what a cacophony!

Parrots – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy

Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta

In the Piazza Duomo is the Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta, also known as Trani Cathedral. This cathedral is dedicated to Saint Nichola the Pilgrim. It is a very large structure, but it only opens later in the day around 15:30.

There are some restrictions when you enter, so please read the signs, though we saw no enforcement; having said that, it was winter and the slow season, so it may be impractical for them to oversee traffic during that time.

Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Patti inside – Trani, Italy

Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Frescoes – Trani, Italy

Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Frescoes in the Crypt – Trani, Italy

Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Orthodox bust in the Crypt – Trani, Italy

Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Altar in the Crypt – Trani, Italy

Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Entrance – Trani, Italy

Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Nave – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani

The Castello Svevo di Trani in just a small walk from the Piazza Duomo and Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta. There is actually not much to see, but it does have a few small things of interest. At one time it was a prison and had other incarnations as you go back in time to protect the town. It is also noted to have a large clock on its edifice.

Castello Svevo di Trani – Patti and the Basilica from the castle – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani – Diorama of the castle – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani – Painting as you enter – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani – Sala Federico II room – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani – Ruins leading to the prison area – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani – Architecture of the castle – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani – Old side portal in the castle – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani – Strange window – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani – Old prison area of the castle – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani – Lookout to the sea – Trani, Italy

Castello Svevo di Trani – Large outside area – Trani, Italy

Restaurants

Since we were only doing a day trip, we were only able to visit one restaurant and that was for lunch.

Giù a Sud, Green Bistro

The Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot is located at Piazza Cesare Battisti in Trani. After viewing the menu outside we decided we would give it a try and we are glad we did.

Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Bar and Inside – Trani, Italy

Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Primitivo and bread – Trani, Italy

Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Bean and Lentil soup with croutons – Trani, Italy

Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Orecchiette and Broccoli Rape – Trani, Italy

The food and restaurant is sourced locally from green producers and prepared using artisanal recipes. They had a bean and lentil soup with croutons which was just delicious. I am pretty sure it is probably something that comes off the menu in the summer, but you may ask, in Italy you never know, especially in Mezzogiorno. We thoroughly enjoyed it.

1 February, 2025

Polignano A Mare, Italy – Seaside Perch

Polignano A Mare, Italy – A Seaside Perch

The small seaside town of Polignano A Mare is perched upon cliffs overlooking the Adriatic Sea. It is believed to be the ancient Greek town of Neapolis, or new city, but this has never been confirmed by archaeological research.

The town is a five minute train ride from Monopoli and about thirty minutes away from Bari to the north. A variety of trains run rather often, with the regional (R) trains taking a bit longer to reach their destinations. We always try to use the regional fast (RV) trains when we are able.

Limestone cliffs – Polignano A Mare, Italy

The draw for this ancient town and its historic center are the grottos and cliffs that line the seaward side of the town. Noted for cliff diving and other amusements during the summer months, it becomes a mecca when the weather turns warmer.

Grotta Azzurra Monachile

The Grotta Azzurra Monachile is one of the more famous grottos in the town and the easiest to reach. Once you have navigated the narrow streets toward the sea, it can be found on the norther edge facing Bari.

Other Sights

We did not spend a lot time in this town, the historic district just does not offer much, especially during the off-season. In fact, we did not find many cafes or bars that were open, in the event you were thirsty and needed a drink. So, if you come in the off-season, prepare appropriately.

Street outside train station – Polignano A Mare, Italy

Modern town area – Polignano A Mare, Italy

Piazza Aldo Maro – Polignano A Mare, Italy

Decorated for Christmas – Polignano A Mare, Italy

Beautiful stone building – Polignano A Mare, Italy

Narrow streets – Polignano A Mare, Italy

Typical residence – Polignano A Mare, Italy

Viale delle Rimembranze – Polignano A Mare, Italy

This town is another example of one I would not put high on my list. If you have the time, or you specifically are looking for a summer seaside place to stay, then this must fit the bill. Otherwise, I would rank it low on my places to see.

1 February, 20251 February, 2025

Monopoli, Italy – No Park Place

Monopoli, Italy – Not Park Place nor Marvin Gardens

If you are looking for something to do and have a free day to explore, then you might consider Monopoli, Italy. Located about forty minutes by train south of Bari, Monopoli is a true workers town, there is no fluff here.

Monopoli Train Station – Monopoli, Italy

Narrow streets in the city – Monopoli, Italy

Typical residential streets in the city – Monopoli, Italy

Buttresses against houses – Monopoli, Italy

Patti where streets diverge – Monopoli, Italy

Pescaturismo

The city has a basic port and does conduct fishing and fishing tours or fish tourism (pescaturismo or Fatti piu là), during the spring and summer months, on simple craft that you can reserve. I am not sure of the details, but if you are into catching your own food, this may be something to investigate. In any case, their boats are a bright blue and easy to see in the harbor.

Churches

Probably one of the most frequent ancient building to see in Monopoli, perhaps like any other Italian city, is the church, cathedral or basilica. In Monopoli they are all around. Since there is not much else to see in this quaint little city, looking at churches may pass the time.

Chiesetta di San Giovanni secolo XVIII – Monopoli, Italy

Chiesa Rettoria di S. Maria Amalfitana – Monopoli, Italy

Monastery San Martino Sec. XVII Monopoli – Monopoli, Italy

Chiesa Rettoria Sant’Angelo – Monopoli, Italy

Chiesa di Santa Teresa – Monopoli, Italy

Monuments And Piazzas

There are few monuments and piazzas in this town. The piazzas that we found, were either squeezed in somewhere or rather elongated and looked more like a road than a square.

Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi – Monopoli, Italy

However, in the new part of town, there is one large piazza that works instead of all the ones lacking in the old quarter, that is Piazza Vittoria Emanuele II.

Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II – Monopoli, Italy

Restaurants

There is not much to offer, especially during the winter seasons. There are frankly no restaurants in the old city open, so you will have to try your luck during off times in the newer sections of the city.

Michelangelo – L’arte del gusto

For lunch we ate here. Nothing extravagant, just a simple salad and the daily pasta. We were able to sit outside on the corner and watch the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele and enjoy our meal.

Michelangelo, L’arte del gusto Restaurant – Erick’s Green Salad – Monopoli, Italy

Michelangelo, L’arte del gusto Restaurant – Erick’s Tagliatelle al Ragù – Monopoli, Italy

28 January, 202529 January, 2025

Bari, Italy – Ancient City Wonder – Part One

Bari An Ancient City Wonder

Bari is an ancient city built on a peninsula in the Adriatic Sea on the east coast of Italy. It is part of the Apulia region of that country and for many centuries considered part of Southern Italy, which until early twentieth century was considered distinct from the Northern Italy.

Welcome signs in the city streets – Bari, Italy

More signs in the city streets – Bari, Italy

The pasta ladies offerings – Orecchiette pasta – Bari, Italy

One of the arches in the city – Bari, Italy

The Italians here speak their own language, which is distinct from Italian and descended from the Neapolitan Dialect called the Barese Dialect. The differences here are also reflected in the food, pasta and other cultural areas.

The pasta ladies offerings – other treats – Bari, Italy

The city itself has four distinct areas or sections, the old ancient part of the city is located on the peninsula. The train station is located in Murat, which may be considered the business section of the city.

Lungomare Imperatore Augusto – Bari, Italy

Lungomare Imperatore Augusto – Patti – Bari, Italy

Via Andrea da Bari – Decorated for Christmas – Bari, Italy

Getting There

Since we are located in Northern Italian city of Turin, there are two options for us to get there, either the Turin or Milan airport. Since RyanAir has service to many small cities in Italy, Turin being one of them, they were the right choice for us. They provide a direct non-stop flight from Turin to Bari which only takes an hour and a half. It’s not cheap, but on the reasonable side. Even in January, with two flights a day, the plan was almost full.

Flying over the Adriatic Coast of Italy – Italy

Once we landed there were several options to get from the airport to the city. Train, bus, taxi and rent-a-car. When we can, we always prefer and ride the train. We just find it more relaxing and trouble free, but that of course depends on the country and the railroad that is available.

Apulia has its own train system, separate from TrennItalia, so we purchased tickets at the desk before entering the train station (I figure, I can always install the phone application later for any return business). The trip from Bari Airport to Bari Centrale (C.le) takes about thirty minutes with about four of five stops in between.

Bari Airport Train Station – Bari, Italy

Where We Stayed

Frankly, I no longer care for BnBs and will take a hotel over them any day. However, given the opportunity to check other Bed and Breakfast places, outside the crap these applications serve up, we will book our stays with them, provided we have thoroughly checked them out ahead of time using other people’s recommendations as our source material.

Murex B&B

Murex B&B is a very nice modern Bed & Breakfast in the heart of the ancient city of Bari. The owners are young, attentive and respectful of our needs. The amenities that are provided are sufficient and plentiful. Our room came with breakfast each morning and other treats, that would not normally be provided at some hotels and definitely not at those other places.

The ascent to our B&B – Murex B&B – Bari, Italy

Our host Antonio – Murex B&B – Bari, Italy

One word of caution however, the staircase to enter is rather steep. So, if you require assistance with your luggage, you should ask. The owners are more than obliging to any requests and will carry it up and down for you.

Our room was La Città, it was spacious, well lit and warm. The bed was firm with a cushion top and it definitely helped me nod off.

Basilica Pontificia San Nicola

The Basilica Pontificia San Nicola was built in the late eleventh and early twelfth centuries and consists of a basic architecture of a nave with neighboring aisles.

Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Courtyard – Bari, Italy

The ceiling and interior has a rarity to it, that only an ancient church can provide. The roof is made of wood and is occluded by arches buttressing the sides together, few if any at right angles to each other, giving the entire interior a rather haphazard look.

Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Interior – Bari, Italy

Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Ornate Ceiling – Bari, Italy

Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Altar – Bari, Italy

The Crypt

Here you can find the tomb of Saint Nicholas, the patron saint of Christmas. The crypt is a beautiful room with myriad arches all of which are adorned with unique capitols.

Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Crypt – Bari, Italy

Restaurants

Our first day here we only had time for one meal. Since we ate rather late in the afternoon, around three o’clock, we simply weren’t hungry enough for dinner later that evening.

Matiti Pasta Bistrot

This bistrot did not get very good ratings online, however we found both the food and service adequate for lunch. I ordered a glass of red Primitivo wine from the area which was just delicious, and a 5€ glass, it didn’t hurt my wallet either.

Patti’s Caprese – Matiti Pasta Bistro – Bari, Italy

Erick’s Insalata Mista – Matiti Pasta Bistro – Bari, Italy

We kept things simple with a Caprese Salad, an Insalata Mista and later some pasta. After that I had an espresso and a sambuca. The total came to 62€ for two people, with two glasses of wine and coperto.

Patti’s Orecchiette with Speck and Pistachio Cream Sauce – Matiti Pasta Bistro – Bari, Italy

Erick’s Spaghetti and Meatballs – Matiti Pasta Bistro – Bari, Italy

10 September, 2023

Budapest, Hungary – First Thoughts

Before leaving Linz for Budapest, we had to get a bite to eat. What better place is there than a Jindrak Konditorei? There appear to be satellite pastry shops of this company all over the city, including very close to our hotel.

Inside – Jindrak Konditorei – Near Hotel – Linz, Austria

Breakfast – Jindrak Konditorei – Near Hotel – Linz, Austria

Apple Strudel – Jindrak Konditorei – Near Hotel – Linz, Austria

Shortly afterwards, we were on the road for a four hour drive into Hungary. In about two hours we left Austria for Hungary and the Budapest signs started appearing quite regularly.

Budapest

Entering any city, anywhere at rush hour, is normally not a good idea, but we hardly had a choice. In any event, it went rather smoothly considering the bridges from Buda into Pest and all of the one-way streets. Soon we were at our destination, the Mystery Hotel.

Entrance – Mystery Hotel – Budapest, Hungary

The Hungarian people are extremely nice and most speak very good English. So, there shouldn’t be any issues in the immediate area.

Plaza in front of church – Saint Stephens Basilica – Budapest, Hungary

Typical dining street – Budapest, Hungary

Not far from our hotel is Liberty Square; this is where the American Embassy is located. Here you will find monuments, statues and buildings of interest.

Looking toward parliament – Budapest, Hungary

Wing of Exchange Palace – Budapest, Hungary

At the entrance of this square is also an eternal flame memorial.

Lajos Batthyányi Eternal Flame – Liberty Square – Budapest, Hungary

Saint Stephen’s Basilica

Not far from our hotel is the Basilica of Saint Stephen. Though we did not enter it, if only from church exhaustion, the outside is rather impressive and very nice to see, especially in the evening.

At night – Saint Stephens Basilica – Budapest, Hungary

Hotels

There are many hotels to choose from in Budapest. We chose one that would be close to things, but not to far out from the center that you could not get to it by a tram or metro, as well as reasonably priced parking. The Mystery Hotel fits that bill nicely and is decently priced such that it should not break your bank.

Mystery Hotel

For people interested in driving or taking the train, the Mystery Hotel offers a great five star option close to the main railroad station with valet parking. It is also a few blocks away from the oldest Metro line in the city, the M1.

Breakfast room – Mystery Hotel – Budapest, Hungary

Since the hotel occupies an old renovated building not initially intended for occupation, the rooms are interestingly configured inside. Some even have lofts, so stay flexible, since they are well maintained and well appointed.

Our room – Mystery Hotel – Budapest, Hungary

Bathroom – Mystery Hotel – Budapest, Hungary

Restaurants

As the capitol of Hungary and at a very busy intersection of Europe, Budapest has a huge selection of all kinds of different cuisines, especially Hungarian.

Retek Bisztro

Rather pricey and on the high-end of restaurants is the Retek Bisztro. It is located not far from the basilica and in downtown Budapest. It is a very busy place, so make reservations before you leave on your trip, since it fills up fast.

Front Room and bar – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary

The restaurants offers most authentic Hungarian cuisine, from Hungarian Goulash to Hungarian meatballs. You will notice that most of my photographs came out a bit orange, since there was a red lamp very near our table.

Patti and Ericka – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary

hors d’oeuvres – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary

Hungarian Goulash soup – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary

Duck leg with noodle and sauerkraut – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary

Salmon – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary

Hungarian deep fried meatballs with mashed potatoes – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary

Poppy-seed cake – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary

Sunday – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary

Along with a bottle of wine, the entire bill for four people and drinks came to 220€.

Fekete Cabernet – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary

7 September, 2023

Linz, Austria – Home Of Linzer Torte

Our trip from Bad Gastein to Linz took us through the Berchtesgaden Alps of Salzburg. As the train starts to navigate through the narrow pass of Salzachtal, the mountains rear up quickly to the point where you aren’t even able to take a photograph of them anymore from the train window.

Coming into Salzburg – Salzburg, Austria

Linz The City

Linz is a typical Austrian city and the capital of Upper Austria or OberÖsterreich. It is for the most part clean and has the typical European city layout, with an old medieval part surrounded by a newer main street and some other ancillary shopping avenues in a more planned pattern.

Overlook of Linz – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria

Linz has somewhat of a checkered past and has had a difficult time getting out from under that reputation; there are reminders in the city everywhere, with it’s Hitlerbauten. Aside from that, the places of interest are all in an area comparable to places like Munich or even Copenhagen. So, you should be able to reach everything within a good twenty to thirty minute walk.

Danube river – Nibelungen Bridge – Linz, Austria

One comes away with the immediate impression that few, if any of the structures are original. This is probably partially due to the war and the Linzers going contemporary, when they can. The bridges that jump the Danube are for the most part modern, as is much of the architecture in the city. At times you could mistake the city for a similar place in the United States, since many of the shops use English and have cosmopolitan origins.

The Innenstadt

Most restaurants, cafes and shops seem to be along the Hauptstraße in the Innenstadt. Here is where you will find the main tram line, which goes the entire length of this street all the way across the bridge to Urfahr on the other side.

Neptune’s Fountain – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria

Dreifälitigsaule – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria

Churches

There are several churches worth visiting while in Linz, with special attention to Ursuline and Marien Dom if you are pressed for time. The following two were photographed, but not open at the time. Ignatius Church is also known as the Alter Dom and was the primary church prior to the Linzer Dom being built.

Priester Seminary and church – Linz, Austria

Ignatius Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria

Ursuline Church

The Ursuline Church is on Landstraße and is somewhat difficult to photograph from the street.

However, it has a magnificent inside which many will find interesting.

Inside – Ursuline Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria

Side altar – Ursuline Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria

Martin Luther Church

In true protestant style, both the outside and inside of the church are rather basic. But from a historical perspective, still interesting to visit.

Inside – Martin Luther Church – Linz, Austria

Marien Dom

This is Linz’s Cathedral and the largest church in Linz and in Austria. The Marien-Dom is also known as Mariä-Empfängnis-Dom, the New Cathedral or the Linzer Dom. It borders the Altstadt and can be found along the Herrenstraße and Baumbachstraße

Front – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria

Spire – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria

It is a true cathedral and adheres true to the dimensions of the cross in its architecture (seen from the air).

High altar wth crown – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria

High altar – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria

Organ – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria

Nave – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria

Inside – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria

Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria

The Altstadt

The old part of the city is rather small and unremarkable. It is near the Castle and park and runs up to the Upper Austrian government buildings. A short walk down the Hofgasse will bring you to the Schloßberg where the old castle and its grounds are maintained.

Former Kremsmünster Abbey. – Altstadt – Linz, Austria

Government building and tower – Altstadt – Linz, Austria

The Old Town Hall – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria

Schloßberg Castle

The Schloßberg Castle is not open on Mondays, so before going there you may want to check the entries times and dates. The other direction you can take to reach the castle is via Tiefergraben and walking through the back part of the park first. Walking this way first you will come across Martins Church and a statue of Kepler.

Old buildings – Tiefer Graben – Linz, Austria

Castle city gate – Tiefer Graben – Linz, Austria

Martins Gate – Castle park – Linz, Austria

Kepler’s Monument – Castle park – Linz, Austria

Castle Gate – Castle park – Linz, Austria

The castle is another example of the Linzers throwing old and new architecture together. We are not at all to happy with this trend (including the Louvre in Paris), however, we do not live in the city either and its people obviously feel a need to move forward and live in a more contemporary setting.

Linz from the park – Castle park – Linz, Austria

Small pond – Castle park – Linz, Austria

Friedrich’s Gate – Castle park – Linz, Austria

Friedrich’s Gate with Wappen – Castle park – Linz, Austria

Old castle wall – Castle park – Linz, Austria

Part of the castle – Castle park – Linz, Austria

Nibelungschiff monument – Castle park – Linz, Austria

The grounds have a small park which has a few monuments in it and a very good overlook of the Danube river and Pöstlingberg.

Observation point – Castle park – Linz, Austria

Pöstlingbergbahn And Pöstlingberg

A good half day trip is taking the tram up to Pöstlingberg using the Pöstlingbergbahn or tram. It starts in the Hauptplatz and stops several times along the way to service local residents and students, since there are a few university stops along the way.

Tickets For Two – Pöstlingbergbahn – Linz, Austria

Entrance Pöstlingbergbahn Museum – Linz, Austria

Tram stop Landgutstraße – Pöstlingbergbahn – Linz, Austria

Pöstlingberg stop – Pöstlingbergbahn – Linz, Austria

Castle park entrance – Pöstlingbergbahn – Linz, Austria

The view of Linz once you reach the top is truly worth the time and effort.

Overlook – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria

Wallfahrts Basilica

On the top of Pöstlingberg sits the Wallfahrts Basilica of the Sieben Schmerzen Mariae, or the Seven Pains of Mary. It has a commanding view of Linz and the surrounding areas.

Outside view – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria

Towers – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria

The basilica inside is quite impressive and is also known as the Pöstlingberg Pilgrimage Church.

Inside – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria

It also has a very nice park adjacent to it where you can leisurely stroll while the cool air up there offers a breeze on warm days.

Poetry in the park – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria

Castle mote – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria

Promenade – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria

Promenade – Castle mote – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria

Patti in the park – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria

Grottenbahn

There is also the Grottenbahn for those that have children or are young at heart. Apparently, it is a miniature railway inside that takes young people fantasy ride where there are gnomes and other fairytale characters, most likely with an emphasis on European tales.

Though we did not take the adventure, we found the cost for one adult to be around 6€/person.

Restaurants

Since we were both feeling a bit under the weather, due to an unusual virus we had both caught; we decided to eat in at the hotel most evenings. Below are the exceptions to that rule and are special places to eat while in Linz.

Jindrak Konditorei

Located throughout Linz are copies of this original konditorei located on Herrenstraße in the altstadt. They are known for the amazing Linzer Torte and other baked delicacies. For any serious dessert lover and a must Kaffee und Kucken stop in mid afternoon when in Linz.

Jindrak Konditorei – Herrenstraße – Linz, Austria

Linzer Tort – Jindrak Konditorei – Herrenstraße – Linz, Austria

29 July, 202331 July, 2023

Alba, Italy – Piedmont’s Wine Center

Our trip started at Turin’s Porta Susa train station. For a little over 12€/person, you can purchase a one-way commuter ticket on Piedmont’s Sfm4 line to Alba, which takes about an hour and twenty minutes to get there, going through Bra first, which can also be a stop on your itinerary.

Alba

Anyone serious about wine or truffles has to visit Alba, Italy. Located an hour or so south of Turin, it is a bustling center for both, especially in the Fall when both of these products are harvested. Our whole intent on visiting the town was a wine tour we had booked for Barolo and Barbaresco (covered in my next post), but we decided to grab a hotel and enjoy an extra day just to explore.

The streets of Alba are well kept – Alba, Italy

The town is rather self contained and almost in the shape of a loose hexagon, owing to its ancient Roman ancestry as a fortification no doubt. There are several places where these ancient ruins are evident and demonstrate how the town itself is constructed upon them, using them as a foundation. There are also underground caverns and tunnels that can be explored, but arrangements have to be made ahead of time in order to visit them.

Roman Theater and Palazzo Marro remains – Alba, Italy

The town has numerous towers and it was once known as the town with a hundred towers. These were most likely constructed as lookouts and were defensive in nature.

Palazzo Communale and Cathedral of San Lorenzo – Alba, Italy

There are also numerous churches, as is true of most Italian towns and cities. The cathedral, or Duomo, occupies a central place near the town’s marketplace and between the Piazza Duomo and Piazza Rossetti. The interior is typical for its size and function.

Other churches, including the Church of the Maddalena, actually have more interesting and elaborate interiors. One, the Church of Saint John the Baptist, looks more like a provincial library than a church inside.

Chiesa della Maddalena, via Vincenzo Gioberti – Alba, Italy

Hotel Dellatorre

A three star hotel, which is actually more of a converted Bed-n-Breakfast, than a real hotel. It is more like a cafe/bar that has added rooms and tries to call itself a hotel. All the rooms are separate and there is no main structure with hallways, they all have external doors.

The owner runs a cafe or bar as well, and although we stayed here for one night, we did not use her cafe for breakfast, since we had learned that the beverages were a bit over-priced. Again, we are not sure whether that is in fact the case, but we did notice that there was no menu or price list anywhere. While we travel we have a general rule that if the prices are not listed, we tend to avoid the establishment.

The room was spacious enough, quiet and comfortable for the most part. The bed was very hard, so if you prefer that kind of mattress firmness, this place might be for you.

Restaurants

Conterosso

For lunch we ate at Conterosso and chose two of the local dishes. Patti had the Agnolotti with truffles and I had the veal with a barolo wine sauce, both were excellent dishes.

Caprese salad – Conterosso – Alba, Italy

Agnolotti with black truffles – Conterosso – Alba, Italy

Veal in Barolo sauce with potatoes – Conterosso – Alba, Italy

Gusto Madre

A contemporary dining place that makes excellent pizza. Located in Piazza Michele Ferrero, it is just on the edge of town.

Since Patti was not feeling well, I ate alone and just ordered a simple Pizza Margherita which was drizzled with a pesto, it was actually quite good.

Pizza Margherita – Gusto Madre – Alba, Italy

Map of the City

Below is a map of the city.

1 July, 2023

Stresa, Italy – Quiet Lake Retreat

Stresa

Stresa is a small lake-side tourist attraction on Lake Maggiore, Italy. It is frequented by Italians, Brits, French, Germans, Asians and the odd American. It is only a tiny strip of about a few kilometers, where there are a dozen or so hotels. It is not very busy, unlike the Mediterranean coast, so it is very laid back and relaxing – a quiet retreat.

The area is know for its three Borromean islands, Isola Bella, Isola dei Pescatori (also known as Isola Superiore) and Isola Madre. More on these later.

The town is rather simple, but it has ample restaurants and other types of shopping. There is also an amazing AgriGelateria at Corso Umberto I, which has excellent gelato with all natural and authentic flavors, a must stop, especially when it is really hot outside.

Lungolago di Stresa

Stresa also has a wonderful boardwalk area stretching from Stresa along the lake front and becoming the Passeggiata del lago di Carciano, which is directly across from Isola Bella. It’s a bit over a kilometer and will take about a quarter to half of an hour to walk, depending on your pace.

Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy

Isola Bella – Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy

Lake Maggiore and Isola Bella, Isola Pescatori – Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy

Lake Maggiore – Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy

Hotel Regina Palace

In its heyday, this four star hotel must have been a place to see and enjoy. However, aside from its opulent structure, this hotel is a solid three-star hotel than what it’s advertised.

The issues we had while here for our short five day star were as follows:

- Our room was not vacuumed for our entire stay.
- There was no Hair Conditioner nor Body Lotion in the bathroom.
- The plumbing is old, requires repairs and updating, some things leak continuously.
- The walls in the rooms are paper-thin and the painting is dated.
- Room service does not fill everything you would expect, e.g. tissues.
- In the dining area – they do not replace things unless you request and even then you might not get it, e.g. syrup for your pancakes.
- In the dining area – you may have to seat yourself, the concierge is not very attentive. I know it’s Italy, but most of the time half of the staff is standing around doing nothing.

The hotel is in a very strategic position along the coast, it is both very close to the islands and the town, this was one of the reasons we selected it. So, if you visit this hotel, be aware of the aforementioned issues and go in with your eyes wide shut.