Parma, Italy – Tasty Bus Tour

Probably for most people when they hear the word Parma, they do not think of a place to visit but rather their stomachs and eating ham. Many can argue what is the best meat with respect to taste, beef or pork. I am not sure that many can argue about pork’s versatility, from fried pork skin to bacon, pork chops to pork tenderloin, Salumi to Prosciutto Crudo. One thing is certain, if you love the last two then Parma is your Mecca.

Parma

In Parma Province, within the region called Emilia-Romagna, the city of Parma is joined with its neighboring cities by the Via Aemilia^[1]One of the trunk Roman Roads that ran through Italy during the Roman Empire through the Po river valley from Piacenza to Rimini. The valley has special properties which embue the ham and cheese made here with delicate flavors. It’s all in the label, literally.

The Tasty Tour

We employed to Tasty Tour for a day long jaunt into the countryside to understand how Parma Ham, Prosciutto, Parmesan Cheese and finally, Balsamic Vinegar were manufactured.

Old Tractors – Old Massey Ferguson – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

The tour promised six hour drive to three small, but key places where these products are made to the DOP^[2]Denominazione d’ Origine Protetta which ensures the following. They meet the highest of standards of production and are produced within certain regions that result in characteristics to ensure … Continue reading highest standards.

Salumificio Conti

Among Parms Ham manufacturers, Salumificio Conti is a well established name with a heritage all its own. The factory is modest in size, but produces some of the best tasting hams and salumi in this region of Italy.

The factory orders and accepts only the two hind legs from it preprocessor and butcher. These are delivered in trucks and processed the day they arrive, so it is all planned and nothing is left to chance.

Newly Arrived Hams – Salumificio Conti – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Machine that Cleans and Salts the Hams – Salumificio Conti – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Skilled craftsmen and women assess each ham for its ultimate use, which can be anything from just daily grocery store cold cuts, to aged proscuitto and other salumis. Culatta Culatello hams are also processed here and are usually hung in bags, after the meat has been taken from the bone and properly arranged in a bag and salted.

Culatello Hams – Salumificio Conti – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

There were no arrivals the day we were there, but we were able to learn how the special Parma Hams were selected and stamped and smeared with a special lard, to ensure the amount of air that gets to them, after all of the are salted. They only use human grade sea salt on the hams, which in the first couple of weeks of curing is removed every other week and re-applied.

Drying Black Label 12 Month Parma and Culatello Hams – Salumificio Conti – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Drying Rosa Antico 16 Month Parma and Culatello Hams – Salumificio Conti – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

The Conti Story – Salumificio Conti – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

After selection and processing the hams are stored in a refrigerated controlled rooms for a specified amount of time.

Drying Parma Hams – Salumificio Conti – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Close Up of Ham – Salumificio Conti – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Depending on how much time they spend to dry and what type of ham each has been selected for, they are boxed and prepared for packaging and shipping. Below is batch ready for shipment that appears to be about ten months old.

Hams Ready for Packaging and Shipment – Salumificio Conti – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Damiani Parmesan Factory

San Pieri Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano is located in Parma Province, in San Prospero, just outside the city limits. The history of making Parmesan cheese in the area goes back almost a thousand years, for which the cheese that’s made here owes its distinct taste to the local flora that is eaten by the cows.

Entrance – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

At the farm, two milkings are done every day, where the milk is harvested for four different indigenous cows, they are:

- - Rossa Reggiana – it is considered the mother of Parmigiano Reggiano. It almost became extinct in the 1980s, after farmers committed to raising only cows that produced more milk. However, the local commune, called the Consorzio Vacche Rosse, turned this around and committed to making cheese with this milk like they did 800 years ago.
  - Bruna Italiana – derived from the Bruna Alpina cow from Austria and Switzerland, there is also a Consorzio di Sola Bruna that protects and makes cheese from this species. The milk from this cow has a higher fat content and subsequently the cheeses are more buttery and flavorful.
  - Biana Modenes – or white breed, also almost went extinct and was only just recently in 2005 spared that fate. The Caseificio Rosola di Zocca was formed to breed and protect the species from extinction. This cow produces a cheese curd that is sweeter and more elastic, giving the resultant cheese a rich, dense flavor.
  - Holstein Friesian – or what they call the industrial breed. Bred because it produces more milk for the same acreage as any other cow. Therefore it is doing well and provides the base, stock milk for most cheese in the area.

There are six steps to making parmesan cheese, from blending, heating and shaping, to salting, ageing and finally branding, that is, after each has passed a rigorous inspection.

Introduction – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

The first two steps take place in huge vats that are heated by steam. The rise in temperature allows the yeast that is added to multiply rapidly to produce curd.

Curd Heating Vats – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

The curd is then taken out using cheese cloth and strained of water, rinsed and placed into plastic molds for shaping. The plastic mold has basic information on it that imprints on the cheese rind as it forms. Special places in the mold are left blank, these are where the DOP information, the inspection results and other information are burned into the rind later.

Heating and Processing Curd – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Rinsing the Curd in Cheese Cloth – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Forming Molds with Imprints – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Forming Cheese Wheels and Wheels in Brine – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Human Grade Sea Salt – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Preliminary Aging Room – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Once the cheese has aged it is ready for inspection, the DOP information is burned into the rind. Then the inspection results are died onto the rind by a circular stamp if the cheese has passed.

Intermediate Aged Parmesan – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Wheel Cleaning Machine – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Aged Parmesan – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Cheese Passed Inspection – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Green Inspection Approval Stamp – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Otherwise, a rectangular or other shape is used indicating why the cheese failed, along with a scouring of the outside with latitidudinal lines, clearly indicating a sub-standard or bad wheel.

Cheese Wheel Failure – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Acetaia Picci

Chef Picci, who owned and operated a very successful restaurant, retired and has devoted the rest of his days to producing balsamic vinegar of varying ages and quality with his company Acetaia Picci in Cavriago. Unlike the variety you will find in Modena and most likely in a grocery store near you, his vinegars are more acidic and owe their quality to the different grapes from the area he uses. He prefers this, since only half as much of the balsamic vinegar in the Po Valley displays these qualities, as opposed to the larger companies that produce sweeter ones from the southern parts of the valley.

Entrance and Guest – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

House and Adjoining Business – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

The grape must is first heating in large vats to start the process. From there the liquid is transferred to large waiting casks in the same room. This is temporary, since the process of moving the vinegar from one cask to another is on on-going procedure.

Grape Distillery – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

First Set of Aging Barrels for Each Batch – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Each cask is only filled to 85 percent. This is to allow enough air at the top for proper fermentation. As each cask loses liquid, either from evaporation or leakage, it is topped up from the larger cask adjacent to it in a long progression. The largest of these casks are later topped up with liquid from the larger primary casks in the cooking area.

Old Tools in Stairwell – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

The Triumph of Bacchus or the God of Wine – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Aging Barrels – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

As time goes on, the casks get smaller and smaller. As they descend in size, the number of years that the balsamic has been sitting inside goes up as well. Production for 7, 12, 25 and even 50 year balsamic is not uncommon. The number of years is also reflected in the price as well as the quality of the balsamic.

Aging Barrels Progression – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Old Barrels – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Balsamic over 12 years old – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Balsamic in the attic – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Typically the early the balsamic the more vinegar it has in it. Older ones tend to adopt a sweeter taste over time as the vinegar and acid content drops as it is transformed into other complex compounds. Over time sediment collects in the bottom of each cask, which noone can see until a cask is finally rendered useless due to leakage or other issues and opened.

Very old Balsamic, some over 50 years old – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Puppet guarding his stock – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Ancient Crystals of Tartaric Acid and other sediments from aging vinegar over 90 years – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Rotted Cask Wood from over 90 year old cask – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

One can see this in a simple tasting, though I could not say whether I preferred one of the other, each has different uses from dressing a salad, to cooking and baking, and even as an ice cream coating.

Tasting Balsamic – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Restaurants

Since our outting was a full day, it came with what they called a “light lunch”. Our destination was a small Osteria along our route called Osteria La Maestà.

Osteria La Maestà

The Osteria La Maestà is located on Via di Case Trombi, 15, before you enter Mulazzano Ponte from Parma. It is a typical local Osteria that is run by an older couple. Our experience was just wonderful. We spent and entire hour talking and eating excellent food.

Mozzarella and Ham roll salad – Osteria la Maesta – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Ravioli Cheese and Spinach in Butter Sauce – Osteria la Maesta – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

The entire meal consisted of an appetizer of mozzarella and ham, a tortelli di erbetta primi, a light dessert, red and white wines and both types of water.

Dessert – Osteria la Maesta – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Conclusion

We cannot say enough about the Tasty Bus tour, or the type of tour that takes you these small producers of ham and cheese. We had a wonderful time and before we knew it, it was over. Upon return we ran into a bit a bad weather. It had been exceptionally hot and the weather complied with kicking up the necessary line of thunderstorms.

Rainy End of our Tour – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy

Our tour bus driver and guide was accomodating enough to get us as close as possible to our hotel, but as they say in America, we got a wet ass anyways. Oh well. We started the day wet in sweat and ended the day wet in rain, so we came out kind of even, but enjoyed every minute of the experience.

References[+]

References
↑1	One of the trunk Roman Roads that ran through Italy during the Roman Empire
↑2	Denominazione d’ Origine Protetta which ensures the following. They meet the highest of standards of production and are produced within certain regions that result in characteristics to ensure a consistent quality. The ingredients and products come from a specific location and/or family that has been approved and designated by the government to produce such foods. Every element of the product is quality tested and tracked with serial numbers to confirm the exact origins, processing, and approval body of the product.

1 July, 20267 July, 2026

Parma, Italy – Pilotta Pleasures

Approximately two to two and a half hours away from our place in Turin is the city of Parma. Known for ham, cheese and other delicacies in the region, we had been wanting to go there for some time. Our recent visit was for us full of surprises, including the Pilotta Museum Complex, which was a pleasure for us and central to this post.

Parma

At first we were not too sure about the city. Our first impressions, and to some extent our lasting ones as well, is that it is laid out in a chaotic fashion, even for an Italian town. The mixture of new and old on the outskirts is not very pleasing to the eye and is kind of takes away from the central historic part of the city, which frankly is not very large.

The Parma river as well, suffers from drought and over-irrigation, a mere trickle of its former self. Called a torrente in Italian, or torrent, one can only wonder when the last time the river actually enjoyed that much water.

Torrente Parma – Ponte Caprazucca – Parma, Italy

The city does not suffer from tourism and we found the historic parts very pleasant to walk around. There is not much to see, hence our reason for visiting the museums, which we found different and interesting.

Bronze Statue of Niccolò Paganini – Piazzale Arrigo Boito – Parma, Italy

Getting There

We took the FrecciaRossa train from Turin to Milan, then the Regional from Milan to Parma. The regional trains make more stops than the high speed trains, taking an extra half hour to make the hour long trip by high speed rail. The good news is, there are options between Milan and Parma, from FrecciaRossa, Italo, TrenItalia FTP to TrenNord and perhaps more. Our selection was based on scheduling and nothing else.

Strada Cavour

The main street for shopping in the city. It was about a ten minute walk from our hotel and winds its way through the older part of the city, though all of the businesses are modern. You will find all the modern, trendy and chain-like stores here, along with their inflated prices.

Hotel Stendhal

We stayed at the Hotel Stendhal, a fifteen minute direct walk from the train station. Though we read some concerning reviews on some travel sites, we did not have any issues at all and had the most enjoyable stay. The staff was great and we never had to ask for anything. We had a large superior room on the side of the hotel which was very quiet and comfortable, along with a complimentary breakfast.

Outside Our Hotel – Cortile del Guazzatoio – Parma, Italy

Entrance – Hotel Stendhal – Parma, Italy

Pilotta Museum Complex

The Pilotta Museum Complex is the former Faranese Palace that now houses five or six museums, some of which were not open at the time of our visit.

Ponte Verdi – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Tickets For Two – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Entrance – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Parma

The archeological museum offers artifacts from the ancient history in and around Parma. Here are exhibits of the ancient civilizations of the Roman Empire, Greeks and Etruscans who inhabited the Po river valley and the surrounding area thousands of years ago.

Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

The museum also has a display of ancient Roman tombs, including sarcophogy and examples of mummified remains.

Farnese Theater

The Farnese Theater is actually a rather bizarre construction. Built within a very large room of the palace is a theater that was constructed quickly, in order to entertain some political majistrate of the Medici family. However, the event never took place and subsequent to it completion, it was only used eight or nine times.

Seating and Main Theater – Farnese Theater – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Patti – Farnese Theater – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Cherubs – Farnese Theater – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Diorama – Farnese Theater – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Parma_34_Pilotta_04_TeatroFarneseMuseum_18

Parma_34_Pilotta_04_TeatroFarneseMuseum_19

It eventually succumbed to allied bombings in the mid 1940s and was almost completely destroyed and then rebuilt later, for cultural reasons. Though none of the plaster exterior has never been replaced, as is evident by the missing ceiling, it still enjoys a woddy charm. Luckily, the old frescoes survived and can still be seen today.

Structure – Farnese Theater – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Stage Structure – Farnese Theater – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Seating Structure – Farnese Theater – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Backstage Elements – Farnese Theater – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Galleria Nazionale di Parma

The entrance to the National Gallery is flanked by two huge statues. One of Dionysus and the other or Hercules. They are both impressive in their own right, with the one of Hercules looking like it is right on the boundary of the human anatomy.

Hercules – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Dionysus – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

The rest of the gallery houses a myriad of large paintings in its large hall. Unfortunately there are no benches or seating to admire them, so one can only slowly walk by or stand in front of them for a bit, in order to admire them.

Main Room – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

As of this writing, the back of the gallery held the real prize for a visitor, a work by Leonardo da Vinci called the head of a woman, or “La Scapiliata”. One can see similarities with her face and that of the Mona Lisa, which was painted some time after and is now in the Louvre in Paris, France.

Head of a Woman “La Scapiliata” – Leonardo da Vinci, Vinci, 1452 – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Madonna of the Bowl, Rest after the Return from Egypt – Antonio Allegri detto il Correggio, 1489 – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Palatina Library

The Palatina Library is a large library that is still functioning, although for academic and research purposes only. However, the Petitot Gallery is still open to the public, where one can find a wide variety of topics, mostly in Italian of course.

Art Exhibits in Entrance – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

One Hall – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Old Books – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Side Hall – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

The Bodoni Museum

Anyone who has taken typesetting in school would enjoy the Bodoni Museum. The museum honors the famous Parma typesetter and printer, Giambattista Bodoni, and his eponymous typeface as well. The Bodoni typeface was a favorite of mine in high school, where I learned the intricacies of setting type. I loved its clean lines and serifs, using it to print a set of invitations for my mother at one time^[1]To use the museum’s own words, “The severe, neoclassical imprint of the letters, characterized by the stark contrast between the thickness of the strokes and the thinness of the lines and … Continue reading.

Bodoni Bust and Painting – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Printing Press – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Stories of Punching and Printing – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Typesetting Examples – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Restaurants

You will find most of the non-industrial restaurants away from the main shopping street of Strada Cavour. Reservations are recommended, even for lunch, for these are often used by locals and the business crowd. Most of the Osterias and Trattorias serve wine by the tap in quarter, half and full liter sizes, whereas the corporate restaurants on Cavour serve only by the glass, so they can up-charge for it, like in the United States.

Osteria dei Servi

The Osteria dei Servi is actually housed under the Viale Giovanni Mariotti and has a rather odd entrance. But don’t let that fool you. The restaurant is actually quite nice inside and comfortable. The food is excellent and typical for the area.

Entrance – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy

Inside – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy

Patti – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy

Bread and Patti’s Dinner – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy

Ravioli – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy

Trattoria Corrieri Parma

Another fine local restaurant is the Trattoria Corrieri Parma. Located further down in the city and by a Parma University building, it offers great food at even lower prices than die Servi. We found the service similar and the menu full of local dishes for us to try.

Krim Kram Inside – Trattoria Corrieri – Parma, Italy

Patti – Trattoria Corrieri – Parma, Italy

Pasta with Eggs and Chicken Livers – Trattoria Corrieri – Parma, Italy

Cappelletti al Ragu di Strolghina – Trattoria Corrieri – Parma, Italy

Torta Susanna – Trattoria Corrieri – Parma, Italy

Sorbetto – Trattoria Corrieri – Parma, Italy

References[+]

References
↑1	To use the museum’s own words, “The severe, neoclassical imprint of the letters, characterized by the stark contrast between the thickness of the strokes and the thinness of the lines and serifs; the stark, epigraphic composition of the title pages and dedications; the airy, correct relationship between text and images, between line and line, between light and dark make Bodoni’s page a prodigy of harmony and readability.“

3 May, 20268 May, 2026

Turin, Italy – Chris Visits

For a few days we enjoyed the company of our cousin Chris, who luckily was traveling for business in the area and was able to stop by for a visit.

Turin

Chris arrived on Friday and I met him at our main train station of Porta Nuova, which because it was coming from Naples and went through Rome, was late by about fifteen minutes.

For one entire Saturday, the 2nd of May, we were able to enjoy amazing weather and show Chris the city of Turin. One of our major stops was the Open Market in Piazza della Repubblica. There he purchased authentic Italian cheese to take back home with him. Other than that, we just made sure he enjoyed great food here and kept him as comfortable as possible in our apartment for a few days.

Patti and Chris – Giolitti Apartment – Turin, Italy

Chris and Erick – Giolitti Apartment – Turin, Italy

Restaurants

It seemed like we spent more time in the restaurants, trattoria and cafes, than we did walking around. We made a point of it to take him to our two favorite restaurants nearby, which I am happy to say we had reservations for, given the fact the city was packed with people for the Jazz Festival in Turin.

Trattoria D’Agata

Our favorite Trattoria for authentic Silician cuisine is the Trattoria D’Agata in Turin. Here we always enjoy good food, their Arancini are to die for, and good wine.

Arancini and Baked Mozzarella – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy

Patti’s Pasta alla Norma – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy

Patate al Forno and Filetta with Pistachios – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy

la Luna Barbera from Alba – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy

Porto di Savona

Another favorite of ours for Piemontese cuisine is the Porta di Savona. Since the weather was so exceptional and it was lunch we sat outside. Located in the corner of the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, we essentially sat on the edge of the rest of chaos going on in the piazza, it was very busy.

Chris – Porto di Savona Ristorant – Turin, Italy

We had a great time and we are sure Chris did too!

28 April, 20268 May, 2026

Reggio Calabria, Italy – Calabrian Classic

If anyone travels all the way down to the very tip of Italy they will discover Reggio Calabria, a Calabrian city with all the classic touches of Southern Italy. Offshore, you will see the ever present Mount Etna smoking in the background.

Getting There And Back

To get there we took TrennItalia’s Calabrian Regional train service from Tropea. Approximately a two hour train ride that eventually hugs the coast and offers a preview of the Italian island of Sicily.

Our First View of Sicily – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy

Messina Ferry – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy

Coming Into Reggio Calabria – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy

To get back we used Reggio Calabria’s airport, where RyanAir offers direct service to Turin’s Caselle Airport. Another trip just short of two hours which also hugs the coast of Italy and also offers views of Sardinia and other prominent points of interest from the air.

Reggio Calabria

The official name for the city is Reggio Calabria, but it is also known by its traditional names of Reggio di Calabria and just plain Reggio. The city was almost completely destroyed by an earthquake in the beginning of the last century and its more hopefully robust version has new amenities the former city lacked.

Large Banyan Trees – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Corso Garibaldi – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Piazza d’Italia – Reggio Calabria, Italy

If you love food, visit the shops along Corso Garibaldi. Many have interesting and local foods that you can bring home with you to enjoy, while you reminisce about your time in Calabria.

Calabrian Volcanic Spread – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Just up from our hotel and on the transformed via Giudecca street, is the eponymous stairway.

Giudecca Stairway – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Torrine Hotel

On the edge of the older and more vibrant part of the city, the Torrine Hotel is about four blocks from the waterfront. This is just as well, since it provides a quieter place to stay, with the exception being rush hour; it is located on a busy one-way thoroughfare through the city that buses frequent. Our room came with breakfast, a mixture of continental with some warm food thrown in.

Breakfast – Hotel Torrione – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Lungomare

The city has an extensive waterfront and a beautiful Lungomare to go with it. Near the end of it, in the urban park, you will find a nice long sign with the city’s name where you can take memorable photographs.

Beach – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Looking North – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Patti by City Sign – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Erick by City Sign – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

There are several points of interest along the boardwalk and a leisurely stroll along it will eventually bring you to all of them.

Abandoned Boats – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Wave Science Experiment – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Unknown Statue – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Somewhere near the end, down by the Roman Baths, Patti found the Big Bench. Apparently just installed, since it had no placename on it yet.

Patti finds the Big Bench – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Monumento Della Vittoria

From our hotel on Via Giula, almost directly down the street and on the waterfront and Lungomare, is the Monumento della Vittoria. It is a monument erected for Italy’s World War I victory and Victor Emmanuele III, which also has replica of the Statue of Athena Promachos inside it.

Arena del Stretto – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Roman Baths

Along the Lungomare is a site of old Roman baths from antiquity.

Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo

A large cathedral in the Piazza Duomo is the Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo. It was partially destroyed in the 1908 earthquake and rebuilt with a fusion of Romanesque and Gothic styles.

Bronze Doors – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Aisle – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Clerestory by Entry – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

The most interesting interior element of the cathedral is its ceiling. A timbered edifice that is remarqued and painted in a most interesting style, including pagan elements which appear to be handpainted.

Nave – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Nave’s Ceiling – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Crossing – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Urn – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Altar and Apse – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Organ in Transept – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Side Chapel – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Castello Aragonese

The Castle Aragonese no longer functions as a castle and has been renovated into something more useful, an art museum. Here for a small fee you are able to enjoy two galleries, one in each tower.

Tickets For Two – Entry to Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

North Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Patti on South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

North Tower Gallery

During our visit this gallery had an exhibit of modern paintings, most of which bright colors were used in an almost three dimensional approach.

Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

South Tower Gallery

While we were visiting this tower housed a collection of art known as Voci senza Volto, or Voices without a Face. An effective and provocitive collection of art, which appears part surreal and part dystopian and gets the viewer to think about signs of struggle, longing and hardship. This was the high point of the trip for me.

Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Being Neutral Serves No One – Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Villas And Palazzos

There are a few villas and palazzos of import in the city.

Villa Genoese Zerbi

A beautiful Venetian Art Nouveau style building on the Corso Emanuele is the villa of Genoese Zerbi. The original was destroyed in the great quake, but it was completely restored and now is one of the main charms of the city.

Palazzos Spinelli and Giuffrè

These two palazzos are side by side on the Corso Emanuele by the waterfront. Both appear to need some work. Palazzo Spinelli offers a great example of Calabrian architecture and Art Nouveau, or the liberty style.

Palazzo Spinelli – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Palazzo Giuffrè on the other hand offers a more mundane example, and is reminiscent of other buildings you will find in other large Italian cities.

Palazzo Giuffri – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Restaurants

Drogheria Culinaria

Using its former name for the grocery store the family used to own, it now serves food and drinks. It has a decent wine list, with several good varietals by the glass.

Inside – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

The food is also pretty good and you will definitely be able to find something to slake your appetite at this establishment.

Meatballs, Bread with Hot ‘Nduja and Wine – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Pat’s Spaghettone and Erick’s Tagliotella, both with Pork Ragú sauce – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante

One of the restaurants in the area that is highly recommended for local Calabrian dishes is the Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante. Located on via Reggio Campi and via II Dezembre, this small little restaurants attacts all the locals, so have your reservation in hand before leaving your hotel or place of stay.

Old Citroen – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Everything we tried had that home cooking taste without any loss to attention to detail. The Stufato is highly recommended and will melt in your mouth.

Menu – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Stufato di Maialino a bassa Temperatura with Coleslaw – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Cavatelli al Sugo di Capra – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Stufato di Maialino a bassa Temperatura – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

While we were there a local class was having their end of year party, so noise levels were through the roof. However, it was still enjoyable, especially watching the children eating all that food. Made me remember how hungry I used to be as a school kid.

End of Year Lunch for Children – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Fennel Aperativo with Expresso – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Tartufo – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

26 April, 20264 May, 2026

Tropea, Italy – Onions Anyone?

A destination for tourists and those interested in southern Italian cuisine, a stop in Tropea is almost a must. Known for their mixture of Sicilian and Greek influences, this part of Calabria is famous for the Tropean Red Onion, or Cipolla Rossa, one of the most tasty onions in the world. Onions anyone?

Tropean Onions – Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy

Getting There

In order to get to Tropea from Sapri we had to take the InterCity train from Sapri to Lamezia Terme Centrale and then connect. Unfortunately there is no logistical way around it. From there we took the local TrennItalia Regional train service to Tropea. This gave us a two and a half hour layover in Lamezia Terme, just enough time for lunch!

Lamezia Terme

Other than connecting with our other train, there was no other reason to visit this place, that is, other than lunch! With two and a half hours layover, we had plenty of time.

Restaurants

Europa da Albano

While we were on our InterCity train, I took the liberty of researching what our options were at Lamezia Terme. There weren’t many, but this restaurant and pizzeria caught my eye. It was a good choice. It was very busy inside and out and packed with local people, which is actually a good sign. Though we waited a bit to order, the wait was not bad in the end and our drinks and food arrived within customary promptness.

Spaghetti Bolognese – Europa da Albano Ristorante – Lamezia Terme, Italy

Tropea

One of the Canons – Piazza del Cannone – Tropea, Italy

Another Canon – Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy

Unknown to us, Tropea is a very busy tourist destination and we were there on a weekend, so the crowds we experienced were kind of unexpected, especially for this time of year.

Old Portal – Largo Galluppi – Tropea, Italy

17th Century Palazzo Marchesi Toraldo di Francia – Tropea, Italy

One of the main squares or piazzas close to our hotel, was the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, which our street ran right into, if you walked far enough. It has plenty of seating and a few monuments amongst the trees that have been planted to provide some shade against the sun.

Statua ai caduti di Tropea – Tropea, Italy

From there the main street in town is the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, which turns into Via Stazione as one gets closer to the train station.

Weekend Visitors – Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy

Hotel Colomba D’Oro

In Tropea we stayed at a hotel between the old part of town and the train station. It was just as well, our hotel in the city was the Hotel Colomba D’Oro on via Vittorio Veneto and it proved to be quiet and very comfortable. Our room came with a free morning continental breakfast, which included cooked eggs, pancetta and other warm offerings.

Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania

The twelfth century cathedral of Saint Mary of Romania is on Largo Duomo. The interior houses guilt altar for the Virgin of Romania and the Black Crucifix of 1600.

Chapel Dome – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Tomb by Entrance – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Organ and Altar of the Virgin of Romania – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Black Crucifix of 1600 – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Altar – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Statues – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Mother Mary and Jesus – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy

Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea

On the presque-isle of Tropea, which is actually to an island than a peninsula, stands the Sanctuary of Santa Maria. In order to get there one has to climb down from the city and ascend the stairs to the sanctuary, which opens around ten in the morning. It is best to get their at opening, because as we where leaving throngs of people appeared and the inside of the chapel is quite tiny.

View – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Facade and Entrance – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

The entrance to the sanctuary is adorned by three painted cielings.

Entrance – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

The interior is actually quite small and fitted out with pews, an altar and other accoutrements of catholicism. There is also a small shop where you can by a keepsake, postcards or other memorabilia.

Pews – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Confessional – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Nave – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Altar – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

There are a few vantage points in which to take photographs of the surrounding coast and beach, as well as the city of Tropea perched on its cliff.

Patti – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Erick – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Belvedere Gardens

An adjunct to the sanctuary are the Belvedere Gardens, access to which is controlled by entry to the chapel. The gardens command a view of the coastline and with perfect weather equally good photographs of it.

There are a variety of trees in the garden, as well as other bushes and flowering plants. In the day it must have been an amazing place to repose and enjoy the day.

Patti – Belvedere Gardens – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy

Via Lungo Mare

Though the walk along the Lungomare in Tropea is not the best we have been on, it is a nice walk that can bring you back up on the other side of Tropea. It also provides access to the sandy beach that enjoys protection from the wind and the waves and appears to be a favorite for the locals.

The Grotto – Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy

Nasocchio – The Apotropian Mask

Walking though the town a visitor will occasionally notice a mask that almost looks like a caricature. The closest analog we have in the States are caricature artists that frequent fairs and draw your face with a pencil in a very stylized way. Well, these masks are specific to the Calabrian culture.

Nasocchio and the Apotropian Masks – Totemic Masks against Evil Eye – Tropea, Italy

Nasocchio as he is called in Calabrian culture is a mask whose strange and unique glare is supposed to frighten away evil spirits, or what is commonly termed here the Malocchio or Evil Eye. The Italian Horn is meant to function in the same way, as are other strange artifacts in the culture. They are also meant to bring good fortune with their use.

Restaurants

Though we stayed here only for two nights, we still had occasion to visit three restaurants, all of which offered local Calabrian or Sicilian dishes.

Royal Bar

Not known for their food, we bought some drinks here for a quick rest. Nothing special, but the drinks were okay.

Campari Spritz and Granita – Royal Bar – Tropea, Italy

Diamante Rosso Tropea Ristorante

Here we had to try to local al ragu Arancini, or Sicilian breaded and conically shaped stuffed rice balls that are deep-fried. They were amazing, but usually always good, depending where you buy and how they are made. They can actually be purchased at most good local stores, cafes and some marketplaces and quickly heated up for a snack or meal.

Spaghetti alla Ragu – Diamante Rosso Tropea Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante

At Le Volpe we ordered a pasta dish each and dessert. The Filey was freshly made and topped with Tropean Onions, which are deliciously sweet, when they are sautéed until they have that glassy look.

Drink Menu – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Entrance – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Filey Fresh Pasta with Tropean Onions – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Spaghetti alla Ragu – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Dessert and Expresso – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Palazzo Teotino Ristorante

This restaurant is housed in an old palazzo and has both indoor and outdoor seating. We sat indoor right in the foyer next to the stairwell. We came here for the Tropean Onion soup that they advertize and found it very rich and tasty. We can also commend the fried onion floret, you get about four when you order them, so enough to share.

Entrance – Palazzo Teotino Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Dessert Menu – Palazzo Teotino Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Fried Onions – Palazzo Teotino Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

Tropean Onion Soup – Palazzo Teotino Ristorante – Tropea, Italy

24 April, 20264 May, 2026

Sapri, Italy – Sunny Interlude

After our week in Naples where we took several days to visit the Amalfi Coast, we headed further south and stopped in Sapri. This was a scheduled visit to break up the trip and offer us a sunny interlude and a bit of repose before continuing to Tropea and later Reggio Calabria.

Sapri

Sapri is a small Italian town that is dominated by its stony beach. While there it was fairly vacant and deviod of other tourists. But there were plenty of restaurants open and we did enjoy that relaxing atmosphere and food.

The town itself is nothing to look at, but there are a few spots of interest, all of which were along the coastal area. Situated in the Gulf of Policastro it is surrounded by hills on all three sides. Luckily the train station is a short ten minute walk to and from the beach.

Getting There

There are several trains that run between Naples and Sapri. Perhaps the most convenient one will be the local, which stops at several points, but offers a bit more flexibility.

Patti – InterCity Train to Sapri – Naples, Italy

Forest Fire – InterCity Train to Sapri – Naples, Italy

Gulf of Policastro – InterCity Train to Sapri – Naples, Italy

Our Hotel

We stayed at the Hotel Pisacane, a small botique style hotel right on the beach. Unfortunately with the exception of breakfast, the restaurant is closed until tourist season which starts in June. Luckily, that did not turn into an issue for us.

Entrance – Hotel Pisacane – Sapri, Italy

Interesting Tree – Hotel Pisacane – Sapri, Italy

The Observatory

A very tall structure overlooking the Gulf of Policastro. It appears to celebrate eight renowned Italian scientist from astronomy, radio and meterology. It is located on the northern part of the beach, close to the Roman Villa Ruins.

Radio Greats Volta and Edison – Observatory Tower – Sapri, Italy

Radio – Volta and Edison – Observatory Tower – Sapri, Italy

Astronomy – Happi and Marconi – Observatory Tower – Sapri, Italy

Meterology – Copernicus and Newton – Observatory Tower – Sapri, Italy

Meterology – Galileo and Denza – Observatory Tower – Sapri, Italy

Roman Villa Ruins

Partially perserved under a canopy, the Roman Villa ruins are also north of town and located close to the observatory. The observatory also has some roman ruins near it that appear to be an old roman cellar or other structure.

Restaurants

While in Sapri we ate at two good restaurants that were noteworthy. Both of which were for a late lunch. We prefer most of the time to eat a heavier lunch and just skip dinner altogether.

Tintobrace Ristorante

An upscale restaurant that offers Calabrian food and fine selection of local wines by the glass. I would recommend the Cacio and Pepe spaghetti.

Insalata Mista with Onions – Tintobrace Ristorante – Sapri, Italy

Pasta with Tomatoes and Roasted Peppers – Tintobrace Ristorante – Sapri, Italy

Cacio and Pepe Spaghetti – Tintobrace Ristorante – Sapri, Italy

Ristorante Lucifero

The Ristorante Lucifero is also a pizzeria and has great pizza and pasta specials. It is located in town and not on the beach and is a bit difficult to spot. Therefore, they have added signs along the way to assist.

Entrance – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

Secondi and Sides – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

Choose your pasta type, choose your sauce – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

Veal with Mushrooms and Insalata Mista – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

Veal with Mushrooms – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

Pasta alla Ragu – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

Inside – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

I can commend the Aglianico from Paestum, Italy. Luigi Maffini’s Klèos comes in 50cl bottles and pairs perfectly with pasta and other tomato based dishes. I love Aglianico, it is a deep, clear, ruby wine with hints of plum, berry and dark fruit and is very tasty.

Kleos Wine – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy

22 April, 202630 April, 2026

Amalfi Coast, Italy – Part Three

Amalfi Coast

The second part of our first day was filled with visiting the town Amalfi on the eponymouos coast and Ravello, a bit further away from the shore, but still part of the famous coastline. We joined our driver again, who drove the windy and treacherous coastal road between Positano and Amalfi, while we took the ferry to enjoy the coastline.

Interesting Entrance Decoration – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Getting There

To get to Amalfi, we took the ferry from Positano. It is a thirty minute boat ride along the coast, which when the weather cooperates provides beautiful scenery and a great occasion to take photographs.

Ferry Ride from Positano to Amalfi – Amalfi, Italy

To get to Ravello from Amalfi, you probably should use or hire a car. Since we were had hired a private tour guide for all day, we used the car to ascend the five kilometers up the coast to the town.

Our Tour Guides Having Typical Italian Discussion While Driving – Pasqual and Federica – Ravello, Italy

Ravello Next Stop – Leaving Amalfi – Amalfi, Italy

The Coast Up To Our Next Stop – Ravello, Italy

When we arrived, we took a photograph to remember the occasion.

Our Private Tour Group – Driver Pasqual, Tour Guide Federica, Patti and Erick – Ravello, Italy

Amalfi

Perhaps fourth best of all the towns along the coast is Amalfi. Some may be surprised, but that is based on our experience of most of the towns. There are many factors for this, including the terrible idea of using part of the waterfront as a parking area, instead of a boardwalk, or even another beach. Therefore, it comes after Positano, Vietri sul Mare^[1]this town also has coastal parking, but here it works because it is part of a boardwalk and beach complex. and Ravello.

It does have a beautiful cathedral, which unfortunately was closed at the time of our visit.

Cathedral of Saint Andrew the Apostle – Amalfi, Italy

The town has the customary narrow stairs, stairways, alleyways and tunnels, providing a reprieve from the hot summer days for travelers. There are also some interesting fountains in Amalfi, one actually has a cute little diorama built into it of little character, shepards and animals, along with the customary goldfish swimming below.

Narrow stairs that go up, up – Amalfi, Italy

Ravello

Unlike most other towns along the coast, Ravello kind of stood out. Not only is it more relaxing, since it is obviously visited by fewer people, it is quieter and more laid back. This is most likely due to its smaller size, its elevation and distance from the coast.

Some find it a better alternative than Amalfi. For one, there are better views from the town, from where visitors can see Amalfi’s classic rocky coastline. Plus the relaxed atmosphere adds to the pleasure, especially if you have time to sit and enjoy a drink, or have a gelato at one of the many artigianale gelaterias in the town.

The Narrow Town Streets – Ravello, Italy

Ceramics And Glass From Coast – Ravello, Italy

Duomo di Revallo

The main church in town is the Duomo di Ravello, which was unfortunately closed while we were visiting, so the interior remains a mystery to us.

Duomo Ravello – Piazza Centrale – Ravello, Italy

Villa Rufolo

For a small entrance fee you can visit Villa Rufolo in Ravello. The entrance shows some interesting designs and details, that continue in deeper parts of the villa.

Cupola At Entrance – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Details By Entrance – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Looking Back Out Of Entrance – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

In Between The Rooms By Entrance – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

One Of The Towers – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Old Baking And Cooking Ovens – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Inside And Some Old Portal Lintel – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Ornate Design Of Villa Vaulted Areas – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Vaulted Area To Gardens – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

The Gardens – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Double Columed Vaulted Area – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

The villa is rather simple, but has some interesting items, like an old stove and a tower. It is kept in relatively fine shape and is a pleasure to walk through.

Richard Wagner The Composer Was Here – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Ornate Lintel And Rooms – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Old Vaulted Ceilings – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Simple Beautiful With Murano Glass Chandelier – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Another Room With Chandelier – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Old Iron Stove – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Some of the external structures include a tower, a vaulted building that appears to have been an old chapel and some other old structures near the gardens.

Outer Building – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

The Tower – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Old Stone Walls – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

It has a magnificent garden with a beautiful view of the sea. They actually hold concerts from the garden, by extending a stage over the side of the hill, providing a wonderful backdrop for music and other performances.

The Coast Looking Toward Vietri sul Mare – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Church of Saint Mary of Grace – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Coastline From The Gardens – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy

Restaurants

As part of our first day at the coast, we stopped in Amalfi for lunch some time after one in the afternoon.

Taverna Buonvicino

A very nice restaurant with a beautiful terrace outside, which is off the beaten path, so no worries about hordes of tourist bothering you while eating.

Linguini with anchovy sauce – Taverna Buonvicino – Amalfi, Italy

They also have a very good wine list which is stocked with local favorites. I can commend one varietal, Taurasi Lo Scudiero (DOCG), which was exceptionally good.

Taurasi Wine – Taverna Buonvicino – Amalfi, Italy

References[+]

References
↑1	this town also has coastal parking, but here it works because it is part of a boardwalk and beach complex.

20 April, 202623 April, 2026

Naples, Italy – Our Brief Return

Recently we made a decision to return to Naples, if only to use it as a launch point to visit the Amalfi Coast. It was a brief return to enjoy the food and some of the sites we fell in love with four years ago.

Naples

When we travel to Naples, we usually stay in Chiaia. It is an upscale and slightly newer part of Naples that offers a bit more quiet and relief from the tourist activity in the center. It also offers a furnicular to Vomero, which can be used to hop over to the Spanish Quarter, as well as great metro and regional train service.

Coming into Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy

Getting There

We took the FrecciaRossa TrenItalia service from Torino’s Porta Nuova. It takes about six hours and makes about just as many stops along the way. We normally purchase or make sandwiches for such trips, so that we may enjoy the trip without getting overly hungry.

Hotel Pinto Storey

Again, we booked the Pinto Storey hotel in Chiaia. A simple, quiet three star hotel occupying one floor by the Piazza Amadeo. It is a very convenient place to stay, because there is the metro and regional train stop in the Piazza, which gives you quick access to the entire city and beyond.

Capri in the distance – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Hotel Pinto Storey – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Continental Breakfast – Hotel Pinto Storey – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

The Spanish Quarter

We visited the Spanish Quarter before and see that there is much more activity here now, since we were last here at the end of the pandemic. It is worth a walk through if you have never been here and there seem to be several streets now that have active stores and street vendors on them.

Centro

The center part of the city has not changed a bit. The central shopping street is just a busy as when we were here last time. A stroll up the christmas street is also a must if you come for a visit.

Voremo

One our way back to Chiaia we took the furnicular up to Voremo to get a few photographs of Monte Somma and Vesuvius. They do not cost much and provide an easy means for getting around the more difficult parts of the city.

Tickets for Two – Vomero – Naples, Italy

Restaurants

We came to Naples having only one restaurant on our list of places we wanted to visit. Any others were based on proximity or a quick search for a place to eat. However, half of the time we were here, we didn’t even eat dinner. Preferring rather to enjoy a large lunch at our day trip destinations instead.

Osteria Pignatelli

A highly rated restaurant, that for all intents and purposes you should call for a reservation, since it tends to get very busy. The interior is appealing and fairly modern. The food is very good as well. Perhaps not the best I have had in Naples, but equal to the Michelin stars they have earned.

Patti – Osteria Pignatelli – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Table Setting – Osteria Pignatelli – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Eggplant and Stuffed Pumpkin Flowers – Osteria Pignatelli – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Potatoes with Cheese – Osteria Pignatelli – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Pasta Genovese – Osteria Pignatelli – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Portico Pizzeria é Trattoria

On Via dei Tribunali is the Portico Pizzeria é Trattoria. We stopped here for lunch and enjoyed a nice meal at surprisingly reasonable prices for this part of the city. The service was timely and the food was very good, so it is commendable.

Entrance – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy

Patti – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy

Pasta Fresca and Insalata Mista – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy

Mozzarella Spoon – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy

Erick – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy

Pizzeria Staiano Dal 1964

This is a small family own trattoria that specializes in pizza. They also have a menu that changes each day, which contains a nice selection of local specialities.

Pizza Margherita – Pizzeria Staiano dal 1964 – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

We were luck enough to visit twice, so that we could try both the pizza and the pasta dishes.

Aranicini – Pizzeria Staiano dal 1964 – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Pasta Genovese – Pizzeria Staiano dal 1964 – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Dessert – Pizzeria Staiano dal 1964 – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

9 April, 202611 April, 2026

Luino, Italy – Lacking Service

A popular tourist destination for the Swiss, Germans and Netherlanders is the small town of Luino on the northeast end of Lake Maggiore. The boat services on the lake are divided here for destinations north of it and south of it. From the south, especially from Stresa, it is difficult, if not impossible, to arrange a roundtrip to this town except on wednesdays. Even to get here by train is a three to five hour ordeal and roundtrips by rail or bus are all but out of the question. The town is truely lacking service from the southern end of the lake.

Luino

It seems a popular destination for people from the north, who are either staying in Switzerland or the nearby town of Cannobio. It is especially busy on Wednesdays, this is when the town holds its weekly market. ^[1]Proportedly the largest in Europe, but that is not possible. The one in Turin far eclipses it in size and weekly frequency, being open every day and not just the middle of the week.

Hemlock Near Church Of Saints Peter And Paul – Luino, Italy

At one time the town was heavily industrialized and there were many textile factories here, which accounted for the terrible pollution the lake had to endure for years after its demise. Luckily today, the lake has considerably cleaner water that in the previous century.

Getting There

From the north, the map shows all traffic by boat going through Cannobio. From the south, we took the boat from Stresa. From there we stopped a half dozen times before reaching our destination.

Navigation Map – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy

Stresa Boat Dock – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy

It should be noted, if you are traveling from the south and want to go further than Luino, you can, you just may have to change boats in Luino.

Beautiful Day – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy

Coming Into Our First Stop – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy

Arriving In Luino – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy

Our Boat – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy

From Stresa the trip is not inexpensive to Luino. For roundtrip tickets it cost us €15.20 per person^[2]or about $18 per person.

Tickets For Two – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy

Church of Saints Peter and Paul

A walk through the town and above most if, you will find the Church of Saints Peter and Paul. An unusual church which looks more like an administrative building than a church.

The inside does have some marble, but the rest of the nave and ceiling are painted in the style trompe-l’œil, giving the impression of relief where none really exists.

Nave – Church Of Saints Peter And Paul – Luino, Italy

Altar – Church Of Saints Peter And Paul – Luino, Italy

Restaurants

When we arrived in Luino, we only had three hours before our boat trip back, so we had to make good use of our time. Subsequently, we looked for a place to eat first and chose the Trattoria da Elia e Ugo.

Trattoria da Elia e Ugo

A small restaurant that caters to locals and tourists alike. They speak very good english, so there should be no problem with the language; they are even willing to look words up in order to make sure they have the correct word.

Patti – Trattoria da Elia e Ugo – Via Felice Cavallotti – Luino, Italy

The food is very good and well portioned. The caprese is rather large and good enough for two. The pasta dishes are also fairly large and well seasoned.

Caprese – Trattoria da Elia e Ugo – Via Felice Cavallotti – Luino, Italy

Pasta Special – Trattoria da Elia e Ugo – Via Felice Cavallotti – Luino, Italy

Aside from the popular marketplace on wednesdays and the odd historical monument, there really is not much to see in Lunio. Coming from the south, it can only be commended for the odd day trip with lunch as the primary reason for the expedition, since it is rather far away and the boat service only runs roundtrip on wednesday, so plan accordingly.

References[+]

References
↑1	Proportedly the largest in Europe, but that is not possible. The one in Turin far eclipses it in size and weekly frequency, being open every day and not just the middle of the week.
↑2	or about $18 per person

30 May, 2025

Turin, Italy – Sassi-Superga

Our Day Trip To Sassi Superga

On a whim, since it was such a nice day out (clear sky, mid-70s), we decided to go to Sassi-Superga for a day trip. The last time we visited Sassi-Superga was in 2019, after we arrived in Turin from the States.

Getting There

From the center of town and a short walk to Piazza Vittorio Veneto we took the GTT #15 tram going toward Sassi. After waiting about 15 minutes, it arrived and we enjoyed a twenty minute ride up to around the Briaza stop on Corso Belgio. Here we ended up behind another tram that was having issues and subsequently was numbered #00, to indicate that it was no longer in use. Because of this, we had to get off the tram at the next stop and were told to take the GTT #68 bus that pulled up behind our tram.

We happily got on and tried to ignore the issue, until at the next stop the bus driver indicated that we had to get off his bus and get on another #68 bus that had pulled up behind us. Flaborghasted and flumexed we did complied, but not after we clearly showed our displeasure, however being Italian, he was totally nonplussed by the situation. Luckily, after another short 10 minute ride we arrived at our destination, still in time to catch the Cog or Inclined Train up to Superga hill.

Sassi-Superga

After your bus, or tram ride if you are so lucky, there is a short five minute walk to the train station. It is located on a rather confusing intersection on Corso Casale between SS10 and SC di Superga, for which there are about seven or eight crosswalks!

Basilica of Superga – Patti going back to Train Station – Turin, Italy

Stazione Sassi

If you use the GTT phone application for tickets, you would get the mistaken impression that your €1.90 commuter ticket, that was used on the tram and bus, should still apply (within the 90 minute time limit) to take the Inclined Railway up Superga Hill, it does not. Ticket vending machines are inside the railway and cafe building on-site, they may also be purchased from the conductor, but there may be an additional charge. The charge from the vending machine is €3 per person one way, so for two persons round-trip, that came to €12 total for us.

Sassi-Superga Inclined Railway – Tickets For Two – Turin, Italy

The train departs promptly and after about twenty to twenty-five minutes, you will arrive at Superga Station, just below the Basilica of Superga. The station has a cafe, so if you are in need of refreshment, now would be the time.

Sassi-Superga Inclined Railway – Cog Railcar inside – Turin, Italy

View of Turin – Sassi-Superga Station – Turin, Italy

Basilica of Superga

The basilica is still undergoing renovations after all these years and has scaffolding in and around the outside of the building. Most of this appears to be in place to protect visitors from falling debris. The exterior is starting to really look in need of major work, but they do appear to have the upper hand on the issue inside.

Unfortunately, the little restaurant that used to be housed on the left hand side of the church no longer exists, there is only an entrance to the Tomb of the Savoy family. So our plans to eat there vanished as soon as we figured out that it had closed, most likely due to the pandemic.

Basilica of Superga – Dome and Altar – Turin, Italy

Restaurants

However, all is not lost and a short walk down the hill toward on Sentiero 26 path near the Monument of Umberto I, is a nice little Trattoria that we visited for lunch.

Basilica of Superga – Monument of Umberto I – Turin, Italy

Conserva – Trattoria Superga

A short ten minute walk downhill on the trail from the monument is the Trattoria Superga. It is on a rather busy road, however we saw as many cyclists while sitting there as we did cars and other forms of transportation.

Trattoria di Superga – Outside – Baldissero Torinese, Turin, Italy

Trattoria di Superga – Outside Seating – Baldissero Torinese, Turin, Italy

We can only say that the food was very good and typical for Piedmont and the area. The Tajarin and salads were both delicious, though a bit pricey. Our entire lunch with wine, water, bruschetta, pasta, coffee and digestive came to €77 for two, which we consider rather high, though not exorbitant.