Another day in London and more to see. Before we left, our daughter Meagan purchased the 3-day London Pass. The pass is a bit pricey, but gets you into loads of Museums, Memorials, Churches and many other places. This includes, the Churchill War Rooms, HMS Belfast, the Shard, St. Paul’s Cathedral, Westminster Abbey and many others. So we thought it might be a good buy.
Churchill War Rooms
If you have any interest at all how the British and their Prime Minister, Winston Churchill, survived and ultimately helped win the war, then you have to see his war rooms.
The Pin Map of Europe
As can be imagined, London itself is teaming with memorials from all of its wars. This one however is amazing, because it impresses upon the visited some of the effort, at the highest levels, it took to fight a war on a global scale.
The Pin Map of Europe
One of several Southeast Asian Maps
England was not only fighting the Germans, but also the Japanese, who invaded their southeast Asian colonies as well.
Churchill’s Direct Line with the White House
During those times both England and America saw the need for direct communications and arrange a phone system to stretch completely across the Atlantic Ocean. A feat we take for granted today.
The War Rooms are full of interactive venues where you can take your time to read, explore and learn about the man who took England through one of the most dangerous and dark times in its history.
The HMS Belfast
HMS Belfast
As promised in my earlier post, we did indeed have the occasion to board the HMS Belfast. Again, it’s part of the London Pass and allows you to roam a WWII era British Cruiser.
Since we have already discussed the ship in Part One, we give you a slide show of the ship as you can explore and see it.
And if you are looking for enemies, well I imagine this baby can still find ’em..! [Joke: it’s only a prop]
Eating
If you are ever in London and looking for a place to eat, there are of course as you can imagine, thousands to choose from. We have eaten at the following restaurants and can recommend them all highly.
The Wolseley
We had a brunch here and the atmosphere, perhaps a take on old empire England with Oriental panels, was unique.
The food was everything, from the usual simple English breakfast fare, to the more exotic dishes with fish, animal organs, etc. However, they have bacon and eggs and their egg omelets are great too!
Meagan and Jason
Patti and Erick
The Hawksmoor Seven Dials
I have no idea how they derived this name, so do not ask. However, if you are looking for a good steak, this is the place to go, a carnivores heaven.
The food prices here are, as expected, a bit on the high side, but not as high as some of the wine. There are only a few entries in the wine list under 50£. For example, the Chateau de Beaucastel above, went for 165£. So bring your plastic, or plenty of cash.
The Ivy
This is perhaps my favorite. A cozy place that serves several different and interesting kinds of fare, backed up by a reasonably priced wine list.
The atmosphere here is just great, since the architecture of the building is a triangle; there are stained glass windows all around you. The bar is the centerpiece and very well done, surrounded by tables with small lamps on them, reminiscent of something out of a by-gone era. Highly recommended!
About an hour’s journey north of London, if one uses England’s excellent rail service, is the city of Watford. An unassuming place except for the fact that it is the home of Warner Brother Studios in England, which was responsible for bringing the Harry Potter series of books to life.
Once you leave the Watford Junction train station, you hop on a bus to travel the rest of the way to the studio.
Hogwarts Castle
A main part of the entire first building set, is all about Hogwarts; including the Main Hall, the Student Rooms and many other sets that changed from one movie to another.
The main hall is pretty much as you see it in the movies. It even has a real stone floor, necessary since this prop apparently had to be used for the entire series of movies. I purposely did not caption any images for brevity and most who are familiar with the movies will probably understand what they are looking at. The tour itself is broken up into several parts, since the tour spans two whole set buildings.
Harry’s Under The Stairs Room – The Dursley’s
Harry’s Hogwarts Room
Harry’s Hogwarts Room
Harry’s Hogwarts Room
Of course, like the other Hogwart’s children, Harry had two homes. One with the Dursley’s and the other at Hogwarts Castle.
Near the end of the tour, there are massive models of the castle.
The Hogwarts Train
There is another set all about the train and one can tour the inside of the cars that were used during shooting. Each carriage enclosure is cast for each one of the movies, eight in total.
The Dursley’s House
As part of the outside set, you can find the house that was created for the Dursley home.
The set is complete with Harry’s numerous invitations to Hogwarts, a very well done treat.
Hagrid’s House And More
A favorite of everyone’s, is probably Hagrid’s House, that small, stone, iconic little shack where three friends and Hagrid used to talk about the suspicious goings-ons at Hogwarts.
The Dark Forest where the spiders live, is a real thrill where kids can participate in pressing buttons to cause lightning, thunder and the descent of the giant spiders.
Gringott’s Bank
The bank teller stations and set remain also as they did in the movies. There is a very good explanation on how they mimicked the goblins, marble and glass chandeliers that you see.
Other Sets
There are many other sets, almost too many to put in one blog. Here is a virtual tour of other sets and things you can see while there.
We therefore recommend, if you ever are in London and have time to get to Watford, go see the Experience; it is well worth the 2 to 3 hours you will have to spend there just to get through it!
This being our second day in London, it was time to meet up with our daughter Meagan and her husband Jason and do some real sight-seeing. Though just having flown in from New York City would slow us down a little bit.
London Bridge and the Borough Market
Our first order of business, after having some time to catch-up and then take “The Tube“, was to walk across the real London Bridge from Monument Station. Not to be confused with the Tower Bridge which we will discuss later.
London Bridge – Is NOT Falling Down
London Bridge – Public Works Building
The Borough Market is the quintessential small town market on steroids for a big city like London. It has a myriad of trendy shops and market kiosks, along with traditional farm products from all over Europe being represented with their quality meats and cheeses. Of course, I wanted to purchase some Alpine Cheese or Tyrolese Sausage, but time and fear of having it taken from my luggage on the trip back to Italy, prevented me from doing so.
Borough Market
Borough Market – The Produce Section
Borough Market – More Streets, More Fun
This walk took us in the general direction of the new “The Shard“, a triangular spire of a building reminiscent of the “One World Trade Center“. After having a very unremarkable lunch at the Horniman at Hays, we ascended The Shard for a view of the city.
The Shard
As one can imagine, on a good day like ours, you can see the entire city from this height.
London – From The Shard
London – From The Shard
London – From The Shard
London – From The Shard
London – From The Shard
London – From The Shard
From Inside The Shard – Observation Loung, 69th Floor
From Inside The Shard – Observation Loung, 69th Floor
From Inside The Shard – Observation Deck – Looking Up
From Inside The Shard – Observation Deck, 72th Floor
HMS Belfast
The HMS Belfast is a Town-class British 6 inch gun light cruiser of World War II vintage. Similar in age to the U.S.S. North Carolina in Wilmington, North Carolina, this ship has real class and some very nice lines. If time permits I hope to go back and have a peak inside.
H.M.S. Belfast – From The Shard
H.M.S. Belfast – From the Docks
The Tower Bridge and Tower of London
When London comes to mind for me, I think of the BBC and the river Thames flowing under the Tower Bridge as a preamble to TV shows I frequently watched on PBS.
The Tower Bridge – An Iconic London Landmark
Since I last saw it, years ago, the bridge appears to be woefully in need of a paint job, though nonetheless it is still graceful in appearance.
The Tower Bridge
The Tower Bridge – Close Up
The Tower Bridge
The Tower Bridge – Meagan and Jason
The Tower Bridge – Upper Structure
As some may already know, the Tower Bridge is most likely named after the Tower of London, that well-known ancient prison and current repository for the Crown Jewels.
The Tower of London
The Tower of London
The Tower of London
The Tower of London
The Tower of London
The Tower of London
The grounds to the Tower of London are rather large, and there is quite a lot to see here. There are several museums to visit, all of which appear to have been done in very good detail.
Tower of London – Changing of the Guard
One can also see a similar “Changing of the Guard” that you can witness at Buckingham Palace. Just behind the guards above, is the entrance to the Crown Jewels.
The Crown Jewels
As had been alluded to before, there are several other towers that one can visit, all of which have different histories. One of the better ones, and which also involves Sir Walter Raleigh, of North Carolina fame, is the Bloody Tower.
The Bloody Tower – The Museum
The Bloody Tower – Sir Walter Raleigh’s Study
The Bloody Tower – Sir Walter Raleigh’s Study
The Bloody Tower – The Museum
The Bloody Tower – Inside
The Bloody Tower – Outside
From 1603 until 1616, Sir Walter Raleigh was held prisoner here. Though he was afforded amenities not many other prisoners were given, including gardening to make herbal remedies and other concoctions, his internment still must have been very unpleasant.
Some time ago, probably during the hot days of Summer, we decided it might be a good idea to visit Londonpre-Brexit. Not so much to say that we remember when London was part of the European Union (EU), but more that we expect with the forthcoming travel restrictions it will become so what more difficult to enter and exit, and also expect prices for commodities there, like real Scotch Whiskey, to become more expensive over time.
Train Tickets for Two
Victoria Station – London, England
Our Hotel
We are staying at the Conrad, ostensibly a five-star Hilton Hotel. However, I must say, after being here for less than a day I would say it’s more of a 4.5 star hotel (it’s the little things you know).
Eating
For our first night, we naively walked into the Colosseo Italian Restaurant figuring we would get something small, like a soup and salad, or something similar. I know, we just got off the plane from Turin and we went to an Italian restaurant! Oh well, that reminds me I have a longing for Chinese food too. But I digress.
The Colosseo Restaurant – Italian Dining at its Best
The waiter seated us quickly enough and got us our drinks, while we perused the menu. That was it for me, once I started reading all the good stuff, and dishes we would not normally find in Turin, it was the Minestrone Soup and the Penne with Broccoli. Later I also ordered the Torrincino dessert with Sambuca and Café (espresso). Did I say just soup and salad? And the food was just excellent.
Some Sights of London
For our night stroll, we chose to head down to Big Ben, even though we know it’s still shrouded, due to the renovations going on. For now we leave you with some photographs of our leisurely walk.
Westminster Abbey – Parliament Square
Westminster Abbey
Moon over House of Commons
Westminster Abbey
Looking toward House of Commons
We will be in England for some time, so please look forward to many more posts! Until then, CHEERS!
This is our final post about Nice, which we must say was very enjoyable and at times interesting. There are no doubts there are better places to go for a lazy or leisurely holiday. But few can offer the night-life, culture and coastal pleasures than the Côte d’Azur and Nice can. If we were to come back, it would be during the beginning of Summer, so that we could enjoy the beaches a bit more, though probably not in Nice, since they are quite rocky here.
Asian Restaurants
There are several good Asian restaurants in and around the vicinity of the railway station. Though we did not have time to try them all, two of our favorites were Restaurant China for simple Chinese and Thai fair, and Les Baguettes d’Argent for Vietnamese. On one of our last nights in Nice, we visited the latter and were very happy with all of our meals.
The Beef and Vegetable Stirfry
Ericka – “All Done, Where’s My Dessert!?”
Nice At Night
There is nothing like strolling a boardwalk along a beach. With its throng of people from all over the world and businesses, it can be a very enjoyable experience during a vacation or holiday. This is definitely the case in Nice, which has an extraordinarily long boardwalk in the shape of a large crescent.
A Full Moon Over Cap de Nice
Here are some additional parting photographs from our walk along the beach. We were especially lucky to have a full moon greet us as we walked, as well as perfect evening temperatures.
Nice – Hotels along the Promenade des Anglais
Nice – Sunset along the Promenade des Anglais
Nice – Sunset along the Promenade des Anglais
Nice – Hotels along the Promenade des Anglais
Nice – On the Promenade des Anglais – Hard Rock Cafe
Nice – Hotels along the Promenade des Anglais
Nice – Full Moon on the Promenade des Anglais
Conclusion
A very nice place to vacation. Depending on what your plans are, the area offers a variety of things you can do. It is no doubt a gambler’s paradise, so if you are a gambler, drinker and eater, here is a prime spot. The area also has a fairly high number of hotels, so depending on your budget you should be able to, more or less, pick what you want; but I would book in advance since while we were here the Ironman Championship was being held and rooms were scarce.
The people we encountered were very nice and helpful. Even the hotel and restaurant staff, we found to be very attentive. We infrequently ran into any language barrier. Most people in the area seem to have some knowledge of English, most likely due to the high influx of tourists to the area. But, have your smart phone at the ready just in case.
On Another Note
Antibes – One Solution – The Poop Patrol
We did however find the city itself a bit dirty, not in the normal sense of a city, but dirty (think N.Y.C. in the 1960’s), even if you overlook the dog excrement all over. For a tourist area, this is unfortunate and even though we do not live here, we do not like to see it either.
The French love their dogs and apparently their dog excrement as well, since they do not appear to do much about it. I guess it’s a societal issue. I always thought that the main reason in developed societies for installing plumbing was to remove the excrement from the streets to prevent disease, etc.; I guess I may be wrong(?) I did however see one municipality trying a solution, the Poop Patrol. Apparently Antibes is trying a motorcycle outfitted with a vacuum attachment to suck up any dastardly dog remains. The container on the rear (see above photograph) even has Bio-Hazard warnings on it. I found it funny, a bit ridiculous, but all-in-all probably necessary. I don’t think the French are going to change their habits about dogs anytime soon.
With that, we leave you for now until next time when we will be exploring London and Scotland. Until then…
Where to start, especially when visiting the most densely populated place on Earth? I guess for us, that would be the SNCF train station, which is about a 30 minute ride from Nice. In Monaco,it drops you off in a tunnel, like other places we enjoyed in Cinque Terre, Italy. So like there, we had to walk a long tunnel and climb some stairs to finally emerge and enjoy our destination.
Monaco Harbor
Once you start walking, you can tell that space here is at a premium. Even the sidewalks are not as generously proportioned as other places that we have visited.
Within ten minutes or so, we found ourselves walking along the Avenue de la Quarantaine. Viewing the port, which when compared with photographs of the 1970s, was crammed with watercraft of all sizes.
Theatre du Fort Antoine
Along The Digue de L’Avant Port
Along The Digue de L’Avant Port
Port from The Digue de L’Avant Port
On the point where you need to take a right and walk along the coast, is a theatre called the Theatre du Fort Antoine. Though very nice, with an almost modern appeal, it is not considered a cultural spot for the city. Proceeding along the Digue de L’Avant Port, you walk directly toward the institute.
Musée Océanographique
Oceanographic Institute of Monaco – Sea View
Also known as the Oceanographic Institute of Monaco; a rather impressive building from the sea. The former study and laboratory for Jacques-Ives Cousteau and his adventures, is itself also responsible for introducing some of the invasive species now threatening the Mediterranean Sea — via the unconscionable practice of flushing unwanted biological organisms down the toilet or drain, as practiced in other developed countries as well.
Oceanographic Institute of Monaco – Internal Entrance from Parking Garage
Oceanographic Institute of Monaco – Main Entrance
The Institute is well fitted to handle a large number of visitors with underground parking, that accommodates large buses and escalators to assist all, up to the ticket lobby. One must first pass multiple shops and other facilities, before entering the institute to enjoy the museum and/or aquarium.
Tickets For Two
The Museum
It is divided into two equally impressive multi-level rooms which contain a very large selection of specimens, stories and artifacts from the natural world, encompassing the globe.
The Main Hall
One Entrance To The Museum
A Kayak In The Main Hall
Shadowbox Displays
Shadowbox Display – Showing The Calypso
The large main hall has a very large wall display meant to be offered as a shadowbox of significant developments in oceanography, which happily includes the Calypso.
With specific emphasis on the oceans and their habitats, the collection also includes some archeological specimens in the form of fossils and replication of prehistoric animals. These are used as a pedagogical device and comparison to present day species which are on display here.
Fish from the Deep Oceans
One can find one of two displays on deep-sea creatures as well, which are interesting to see, even if it is in a petrified state.
There is also a section detailing the scientific devices and methods used in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s.
One Of Cousteau’s Submarines
Outside, there is apparently the first submarine Cousteau used early in his career.
It took us a little over an hour to complete the museum, which we did before seeing the aquarium.
The Aquarium
I have been to many aquariums, but I must say this one ranks up at the top five for sure. Not only for the breath and depth of species they have, but also the specimens and facilities are very well-kept. All the animals appear quite normal in behavior and have more than sufficient space to enjoy what surroundings they have been given.
Hallway to Aquarium
Main Tank – Sharks and other Fishes
Main Tank
Main Tank
Main Tank
Main Tank – Smaller Fish and Damselfish
Main Tank – Smaller Fish and Damselfish
There are a few large main tanks which host a myriad of species and most of the large predators, including sharks.
The Nautilus Tank
The rare species that they do have, include the Cuttlefishand the Nautilis. With the Cuttlefish, you definitely get the feeling that this animal is not only looking back at you, but that there is also some analysis going on as well — definitely an intelligent species.
My favorites are unfortunately the ones I used to have in fish tanks. The Emperor Angelfish, Hippo Tang and Copperbanded Butterfly fish stand out to me to be some of the most interesting and beautiful specimens.
But, the Damselfish are also great to view, with their luminescent blue and their proclivity for darting back and forth.
Even with the current onslaught against the Amazon, there are also Piranha here too. One can only wonder when this species will be threatened too, if not already.
Seahorse are one of the more popular attractions, most likely because they are so different from all of the normal or bony fishes. But then again, what is a normal fish?
Seahorses
The Parrotfish – He Kept Diving To Eat Gravel
Patti and Ericka – Enjoying the Aquarium
The Seahorse and Nautilus Displays at the Aquarium
The Turtle Display
The Turtle Display
Eating In Monaco
After our long visit at the institute, it was time to get something to eat. Not but a five-minute walk away, we found Restaurant L’Aurora.
Restaurant L’Aurore – Fine Food and Good Service
This is another restaurant that will remind those who travel along the coast of France and Italy of Niçose style. The menu offers a fusion of French and Italian dishes. It is sometimes unclear in the Côte d’Azur, if you are eating French or Italian; either will claim the dishes and cuisine are theirs! However, this is a good restaurant. The food was very good and the staff very accommodating. I had the blue plate special, just one selection of which there were many.
L’Aurora – Staff and Inside
Daily Special – Ravioli – Ummm-Umm-Good!
Monte Carlo
Not far from the train station, perhaps a 20 minute walk away, is Monte Carlo. Having come this far we pushed forward up the hill and up to Monte Carlo to see what, if anything, it was all about.
Monte Carlo
Monte Carlo – Litfaßsäule
Our initial impression was no one lives here, all we saw were tourists. If one took the tourists away, then no one would be walking around. Obviously, just a playground for the filthy rich. Even the sidewalks are tiled and run perfectly to adjoin all the buildings where they meet. I saw no homeless people.
Patti and Ericka – Walking in Monte Carlo
Almost every store and door has a doorman; there are security personnel walking around everywhere. You get the distinct impression that whether you live here or not, you are suspected at all times.
Casino de Monte Carlo
The Casino de Monte Carlo is perhaps the only architecturally significant building in this area. Though a bit ostentatious, it has a certain appeal, even for those not expecting it.
Not much to see from the outside and there is a considerable piazza outside, probably doubling as a parking lot for important occasions. Not interested in the inside, no relation of ours, we took our photographs and left for other sites.
Apotheosa Monaca
Conclusion
Though I found the city-state interesting, I have no wish to live there; it appears devoid of real life.
Freiheit liebe ich und die Luft über frischer Erde; lieber noch will ich auf Ochsenhäuten schlafen, als auf ihren Würden und Achtbarkeiten.
Ich bin zu heiss und verbrannt von eigenen Gedanken: oft will es mir den Athem nehmen. Da muss ich in’s Freie und weg aus allen verstaubten Stuben.
Our trip to Antibes, which today is the major port for the Côtes d’Azur, was mainly due to visit the Musée Picasso. From Nice, by way of the SNCF train system, we disembarked from the main train station at the upper part of town, near the base of the port and walked into town.
Antibes – The Old City
Antibes – The Old City
The old city is some 15 to 20 minute walk along the Avenue de le Liberation, Avenue Paul Arène and Boulevard d’Aguillon.
Boulevard d’Aguillon
Patti Walking The Boulevard d’Aguillon
Antibe – Start of the Boulevard d’Aguillon
Foutain at the Gate of Rue Aubernon
Antibes is not as impressive as some of the other towns and cities you will find along this famous coast, but we found that it has its own kind of charm.
Antibes – Old City Charm
Antibes – Old City Charm
It has many narrow side streets filled with shops and a very large plaza, Place Nationale, where vendors of all kinds sell different things. While we were there, a market similar to one we would call a flea market in the States, was in full swing. Everything from furniture to estate items were offered for sale.
Antibes – Place Nationale
The old city is also a great place to just wander along street to street. Turning a corner you never know what you may find. In some small streets there are still old-style electric wires on glass insulators, a throw-back no doubt of the 1950’s or 60’s.
Pointe Bacon as Viewed from Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse
Pointe Bacon from Antibes
Antibes – Ericka and Patti walking the Streets
Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse and the Colonne a la Mer
Beach as Viewed from the Ramparts
The Ramparts from the Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse
Antibes – Alleys behind Ramparts
Beach from the Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse
Antibes – Houses
Below the Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse
The Sea from the Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse
Antibes – Alleys behind Ramparts
Additional areas we wander through are shown above, enjoy.
Where To Eat
As with most tourist spots, there are plenty of places to eat and there are some tourists here; no doubt drawn here for the same reasons we went, Picasso.
On the tip of the main plaza, Place Nationale, just around the corner on Rue Sade, is Le Chaudron. After a quick survey of what was available outside, we choose it because of its menu and decor. It turned out to be a cozy little place with good food.
Risotto with Bacon, Squash and Parmessan for Lunch – Bon Appétit
Le Chaudron – Door to Dining Area
Le Chaudron – Patti Enjoying Lunch
Le Chaudron – Looking out to the Street
All in all with the addition of the museum stop we consider Antibes a very nice place to visit. It one of the remaining if not the last active working port on this coast so you will also see plenty of maritime shops and stores as well as those for tourists.
Picasso Museum
Located at Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse and Montée Dor de la Souchère right next to the sea is the Musée Picasso. Housed in a very well-kept structure called the Grimaldi Castle (1368-1608), it commands a space in the old city few other buildings are afforded, not even the churches. The castle was built on top of the ancient Greek acropolis of the former city of Antipolis.
Musèe Picasso
The building was purchase in 1925 by the city of Antibes to become what was known then as the Grimaldi Museum. Picasso actually spent time here in 1946 and used it as a workshop. He subsequently made a very generous donation to the museum, some of which were even created there.
Pablo Picasso – circa 1946
The exhibit is impressive and contains many of his works from his 1946 period. There is probably something here for every taste but the main themes nudes and shellfish (apparently inspired by the meals he partook while there).
Pablo Picasso – circa 1946
There are also several photographs of the artist along with text and one can also purchase an audio guide for the entire collection.
Note: Aside from the sculptor if there is any interest at all in me providing captions for the works below, then please send me a review with your request. I will also remove this comment after I have done so. Enjoy!
A small triangle of the city of Niceexists, what was originally the old city. If one were to trace it on a map, they would start from the Petit Train monument along the coast, then around Castle Hill, down the Promenade du Paillon (which actually is a covered up old river) and back to the monument. Within this triangle, the visitor will notice the streets are ever so narrower and older, this is the old city.
Old Nice – Place Rossetti
Old Nice – Narrow Streets
Old Nice – Up To Castle Hill
Old Nice – Narrow Streets
Old Nice – Interesting Restaurants
Old Nice – More Narrow Streets
Old Nice – Near the Chapelle of the Visitation
Old Nice – An Old Portal in the City
Old Nice – Interesting Indian Restaurant
The best thing to do here, is just take a half a day, usually around lunch so you can enjoy one of the many restaurants. There are also plenty of shops and other tourist venues you can visit, to satisfy any knickknack itch you may have.
Nice – Area Just Outside The Old City
Nice – Typical Upscale Street
Nice – Garibaldi Square
Nice – Boulevard Jean Jaures
Nice – Area Just Outside The Old City
Nice – Area Just Outside The Old City
We walked along the Promenade, up to Giuseppe Garibaldi Square, then to Castle Hill and made our way back down the hill to visit the old city, after having lunch of course.
Niçose Cuisine
In Nice some of the best restaurants to visit specialize in the Niçose style of cooking. This is a blend of French and Italian influences that go back many generations. They offer daily specials and usually an adequate, if not great selection of French and Italian wines.
Restaurant Voyageur
Restaurant Voyageur
One very good restaurant that is the epitome of Niçose style, is Restaurant Voyageur. Not only is the food great, but the service is very good and they understand English very well.
Restaurant Saëtone
Restaurant Saetone
Restaurant Saetone – Inside the Front Door
Restaurant Saetone – The Bar
Restaurant Saetone – The Great Interior
Another very good restaurant is Saëtone. This one is rather small, so you must get there early if you hope to get a seat for lunch. They usually have a very dedicated lunch crowd and every chair and table will be full by the time lunch hour is in full swing.
Both of these are situated on Rue d’Alsace-Lorraine. Of course, before heading out always check the times for when they are open and have a backup plan. You can always get there to find the restaurant to be closed, for whatever strange reason. We found the Voyageur to be the more dependable of the two.
Museum Marc Chagall
A short walk from our hotel is the National Museum of Marc Chagall. We had to take a circuitous route via the Avenue Biassini to get there, but it wasn’t too much of a problem. If you are walking, it is on a hill, so keep that in mind.
Marc Chagall Museum – Tickets For Two
The entrance fee for the museum is at this time 10€, so we bought tickets for two plus one (Ericka).
Marc Chagall – Abraham and the Three Angels (1960-66)
Marc Chagall – Jacob’s Dream (1960-66)
Marc Chagall – Adam and Eve expelled from Paradise (1961)
The works by Chagall include most of his Bible-inspired works, including Noah’s Ark, Descent from the Cross and Adam and Eve Expelled from Paradise.
There is also the blue rose testing window that was created for his work, for the Metz Cathedral.
In a far corner, there is also a wonderful mosaic across a reflecting pond, where one can quietly sit in the room and contemplate the mandala.
Of course, the best and my personal favorites are the blue stained glass windows. These are fantastic and remind me of the stained glass windows of Saint Stephan’s Church in the Altstadt of Mainz, Germany.
Clément Cogitore
While we were in Nice this young visual artist and movie maker had some very interesting displays. Some may not like his artistic talents, since they usually display less color and movements, and may appear almost machine-like. But those who enjoy movies and computer games with a dystopian twist will probably be captivated by them. What follows has been broken up to make just one of the videos I saw there easier to upload.
Sitting less than two miles from Nice is Villefranche-sur-Mer, a mere walk away. Since this little port town is also part of the Côte d’Azur SNCF train system, we decided to do just that, one sunny day. We took a walk over the Mont Boron and took the train back.
Walking From Nice
If you are lucky enough to visit this quaint little town on the sea while no cruise ship is in the bay, then you would be as lucky as we were the day we decided to walk there from Nice. A frequent stop of cruise ships Villefranche-sur-Mer is the most used cruise ship docking port in France. Luckily we were spared both the site and the influx of tourists that accompanies such an ocurrence.
Mont Boron – Typical Vegetation
Mont Boron – View of Cape Ferrat
Mont Boron – French Parks Do Not Use Poisons
Mont Boron – Villefranche-sur-Mer
Mont Boron – The Bay of Villefranche-sur-Mer
Mont Boron – The Way Up
Mont Boron – Official Gate To The Park
From the old city of Nice, we ascended Mont Boron, which I must say is much higher on the side of Fort du Mont Alban than we experienced on Castle Hill, Mont Boron’s smaller cousin. However, there are very good paths that switchbacks all the way up to help you with the ascent.
Fort du Mont Alban
The fort from the outside appears to be a four-sided bastion fort. Made entirely of stone, it stands impressively on top of the mountain. Unfortunately, entrance cannot be gained and it appears to be closed. There are no indications that it has ever been opened to the public.
Nice – Fort du Mont Alban
Nice – The Front of Fort du Mont Alban
With the exception of walking up the front stairs to the main door, there appear to be no other entrances on the other sides.
Fort du Mont Alban – Main Gate
Fort du Mont Alban – North Side
Fort du Mont Alban – Ericka from Front Gate
Fort du Mont Alban – West Side
After getting our fill of the view from this vantage point, our walk to Villefranche-sur-Mer continued by finding the path to the town about a hundred meters to the left, leaving the fort. On your map, this path may be called the Chemin du Fort du Mont Alban.
Patti Descending the Chemin du Fort du Mont Alban
The path starts off easily without much slope, but it progressively gets steeper and less developed the further down you go, until you finally hit the town itself. So, care should be taken.
The Town On The Sea
The Bay of Villefranche-sur-Mer from Mayssa Beach Restaurant
From the path you will exit via a walkway to the Avenue du Fort. Since we were thirsty and starting to get hungry, we followed our noses down and finally found the Avenue du Marechal Foch. We found a cafe there for a quick drink. Then it was off to find a restaurant. Ericka found one overlooking the water called Mayssa Beach. A good pick, great service, excellent view and good food at a reasonable price.
Mayssa Beach – Ericka and Patti
Mayssa Beach – Heirloom Tomato Caprese
Mayssa Beach – Rigatoni Special
After haven eaten and relaxed a bit, we decided to walk the Quai de l’Amiral Courbet. The town is actually quite small and has very narrow streets. Enjoy the following photographs from this little gem on the coast.
The tiny medieval town of Èze-Village sits like a barnacle some fourteen hundred feet above the sea. From this perch you can see miles of coastline. The other part of the commune Èze-sur-Mer sits directly below it, very close to the sea. Historically, it is very old, going way back before Roman times. As I write this, I must confess some incredulity as why anyone would build something back then so high up and away from the sea. The only answer I can come up with is for protection from what I can only conjecture.
Getting There From Nice
To get to Èze-Village (tourism) from Niceyou have several public commuting options, in order of difficulty. You can take the bus directly there. The route was 82 at the time of this writing, but this may change, so check the bus schedule. The easiest was to do this is at the Information Center at the Nice Train Station. Keep in mind that buses depart from different places in the city, so you will either have to walk or make other arrangements, bus or tram perhaps, to get there. If a direct bus route is not to your liking you can also take the SNCF train. These run along the coast and depart from Nice regularly and stop at Èze-sur-Mer. You will then have to take the bus to Èze-Village atop the hill, or, hike up the hill which will take about an hour.
Èze-Village – From the Bus Stop
For those who experience motion sickness take care, as any bus ride you take will require the necessary sedatives or medications. The roads are very windy and have numerous switchbacks!
The Nietzsche Footpath – Length Over 2km
For those who cannot see their own toes and cannot touch them without bending their knees, I would not consider trying to hike up the mountain. It is somewhat treacherous and steep. We used it to return and on the way down we saw an older couple who were going down and having trouble (read shortness of breath, etc). The Nietzsche Footpath is impressive, it is not a real footpath but more like a hiking trail and has probably taken its share of victims over the years. Be smart and do NOT ignore the sign at the start.
Road Up To Èze-Village – The Start
Entering Èze-Village
Èze-Village
Èze-Village
Not knowing these options ahead of time, we decided to take the bus directly from Nice. Before it even arrived, there was quite a group of people waiting at the stop. If you do have motion sickness issues you may want to wait for a bus that is not packed or ask someone on the bus once you are on, if you may have a window seat. This is especially true if your bus driver, like ours, must have dreams of driving Formula One race cars! If your bus is as crowded as ours was, you may not be able to look out. So again, be prepared, you’ve been warned!
The Botanical Garden
Èze-Village – Overview from Botanical Garden
At the summit of this beautiful little town, sits a Botanical Garden. Called Èze Botanical Garden it displays vegetation that typically grows along the Mediterranean coast. The entry fee for us was 5€ and you pay right there before you go in. It’s probably money well spent since the views are amazing and they obviously use the money to keep the garden up, which I must say is in fantastic condition.
Patti and Erick – Botanical Garden
Our Daughter Ericka – Botanical Garden
There are also several places in the garden to take photographs.
Devil’s Bridge Plaque – Botanical Garden
Devil’s Bridge – Botanical Garden
The Botanical Garden also has an excellent view of the Devil’s Bridge (I know every town and country seems to have this bridge, but it’s pretty cool to see anyway).
The Perfumeries
Galimard Perfumery – Visitor Center Display
Galimard Perfumery – Visitor Center Display
Galimard Perfumery – Visitor Center Display
Galimard Perfumery – Cologne/Perfume Mixing Station
In Èze-Village there are several Perfumeries where one can make an appointment to actually spend time with a certified Perfumologist and mix their own fragrance. The two major ones that sit next to one another, are Galimard and Fragonard. We chose Galimard, for whatever reason and found the whole process quite intriguing, though completely out of my league (I just do not have the nose for it). The cost at 80€ each can be considered high but includes you walking away with your own scent. Which, if you consider would be in the range of 50€ to 60€, probably is not a bad deal for expert help.
Getting Back To Nice
Tagliatelle al Ragu, Salad and Wine – YUM!
After all of this, it was time for lunch. We found a nice little place right at the beginning of the village called “Mets Vins Chics“. They serve all kinds of lunch fare and wine at reasonable prices. If you do come to this area, you may notice how closely related the food in this area is to the neighboring Italian cities and towns. With the historical fluidity of borders and commerce, it should not be a surprise and it sure tastes good!
Once finished with our meal, our daughter Ericka wanted to check out Fragonard as well. They have somewhat of a larger showroom but unfortunately no longer mixed nor sold the fragrance she was interested in. So we left there, kind of disappointed.
The Nietzsche Footpath – Treacherous, like his Philosophy
It was time to head back and I decided to take the Nietzsche Footpath and the SNCF train back to Nice. The path is very steep and one must take care to make sure you do not slip and fall. It is also very long and will take you approximately 40 to 45 minutes just to descend. Then, there is another 5 minutes or so to walk to the train station along the road where the path exits.
The Nietzsche Footpath – Views
The Nietzsche Footpath – Views
Views From The Village – Garden Below
Parc Phoenix – Views
Parc Phoenix – Views
The Nietzsche Footpath – Views
Parc Phoenix – Views
Parc Phoenix – Views
Parc Phoenix – Map
Views From The Village – Garden Below
Parc Phoenix – Views
Views From The Village
The Nietzsche Footpath – View
The Nietzsche Footpath – Starts Out Innocent Enough
Parc Phoenix – Views
The Nietzsche Footpath – Ericka Was Not Having Fun
Views From The Village
Èze-Village is a very nice, interesting place to visit. There is not much there save the view and the garden, so I would suggest bundling it with something else, like the Perfumery, to make it worth the time and expense.
