With a choice between visiting Warsaw or Gdańsk, we chose Gdańsk because it had more historical meaning and promised a quainter historic center. Moreover, since we were doing a south to north kind of trip, it was the last stop on our itinerary, so smaller is usually less complicated and less demanding.
Gdańsk
Formerly known as Danzig, Gdańsk is a seaside city on the Baltic coast of Poland. Though the old city lies in the delta of the Motlawa River, it is still some five kilometers from the sea. It has switched back and forth from Polish rules, German, Russian and as a free-state. In the middle ages, it was once part of the Haneastic League and was a major trading partner in that confederation.
Patti – Gdańsk Sign – Gdańsk, Poland
Getting There
From Wrocław, Gdańsk is over a four hour train trip using the InterCity train system. Though the InterCity trains do not stop too often, there is still considerable distance between the two cities and even with an automobile it is a long drive. We were fortunate enough to have a very talkative couple that were Canadian-Polish dual citizens and have a very nice chat with them along the way, which thankfully seemed to have made the trip go faster.
Four Quarters Fountain – Gdańsk, Poland
Carousel – Gdańsk, Poland
Royal Chapel – Gdańsk, Poland
Roman Cellar – Gdańsk, Poland
Setting up for St. Dominic’s Fair – Gdańsk, Poland
Old Erbsenmarkt – Gdańsk, Poland
Motlawa River
Along the Motlawa River on both sides are rows of buildings. Many were old warehouses, shops, fish mongers and other establishments, when the city was an active seaport. Today it is mostly restaurants, shops and hotels.
Boardwalk – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Boardwalk – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Saint Mary’s Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Old Port Crane – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Saint Mary’s Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Lew Galeon – Gdańsk, Poland
Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Old Port Crane
One of the major attactions is the Old Port Crane, also known as the Gdańsk Crane, actually has an unknown origin. Though ostensibly built to convey things from ships portside into the city over the surrounding wall its actual purpose remains a mystery. It burnt down once and was restored, only to be partially destroyed during the end of World War II and rebuilt in the 1960s as a historical piece and museum.
Old Port Crane – Gdańsk, Poland
Old Port Crane – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Patti on Rotating Bridge – Holy Spirit Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Old Port Crane Bronze Monument – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Old Port Crane – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Large Tread Wheels – Old Port Crane – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Długa Street
Also known as Long Lane, or Langgasse, Długa Street is where you will find many of the notable houses that adorn the old town, as well as the Town Hall and Neptune’s Fountain.
Neptune Fountain – Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Basement Restaurant – Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Golden House – Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Town Hall – Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Fahrenheit Monument – Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Long Market Place – Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Long Market Place – Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Neptune Fountain – Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
It is bounded by the Green Gate on the end by the river, and the Golden Gate, which is near the former main entrance to the town, including its barbican and Highland Gate.
Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Golden Gate – Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Mariacka Street
Parallel to Long Lane is Mariacka Street, an unusual sort of street due to its narrowness and odd balustrades on the stoops of each of the houses that line the street.
Mariacka Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Ornate Downspouts – Mariacka Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Ornate Downspouts – Mariacka Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Ornate Balustades – Mariacka Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Each balustrade was made unique so that the owner could identify his building when the river overflowed it’s banks. Most of the houses here are also quaintly decorated, though many have fallen into disrepair over the years.
Mariacka Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Mariacka Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Mariacka Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Mariacka Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Raduni Canal
Another interesting place to visit is the area around the Raduni Canal. This is located on the other side of the basilica and Roman Keller.
Jan Heweliusz – Radunia Canal – Gdańsk, Poland
Mill – Radunia Canal – Gdańsk, Poland
Radunia Canal – Gdańsk, Poland
Waterfall by Mill – Radunia Canal – Gdańsk, Poland
Lew Hewelion Businessman Small Bronz – Radunia Canal – Gdańsk, Poland
Dom Sygnatora – Gdańsk, Poland
Radunia Canal – Gdańsk, Poland
Museum – Radunia Canal – Gdańsk, Poland
Gates And More Gates
There are many gates in the old town, however most of the surviving ones still face the river.
Saint John’s Gate – Gdańsk, Poland
Straganiarska Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Saint Mary’s Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Chlebnicka Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Green Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Cow’s Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Barbican and Tower of Secrets Gate – Stągwie Mleczne – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Barbican and Tower of Secrets Gate – Stągwie Mleczne – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Saint Mary’s Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
The Highland and Golden Gates are on the land side of the city and were connected to a great wall that surrounded it at one time. Here you will find one of the walls two barbicans attached to the Torture Gate or house. This gate doubled as a prison and became known for tortures that were carried out in its cellars.
Highland Gate – Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Golden Gate – Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Old Town Wall and Straw Tower – Gdańsk, Poland
Jamark Building – Targ Węglowy Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Straw Tower – Gdańsk, Poland
More Old Town Wall and Park – Gdańsk, Poland
Churches And Cathedrals
Clock Outside – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Saint Mary’s Basilica
Situated almost in the center of town and on one end of Mariacka Street is Saint Mary’s Basilica. A brick gothic cathedral from the fourteenth century that has a working clock on its left side above the apse’s rear window which still appeared to maintain good time.
Entrance – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Nave – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Entrance – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Aisle – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Altar – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Art – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
The church has an amazing organ and stained glass window in its transept. Though it is evident by the used mobile organ, the installed older one may no longer be in working order.
Organ – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Temporary Organ – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
The church has a very interesting working astronomical clock and calendar along the interior left apse. According to records it not only computes most astronomical seasonal events, but also liturgical events and their timing.
Astronomical Clock – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Clock’s Calendar – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Clock’s Calendar – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Lastly, this basilica is rather plain and therefore many of the epitaphs and memorials stick out prominently. Most have German inscriptions on them, owing to the city rich heritage, though many are also written in Latin.
Memorial – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Memorial – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Memorials – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Interesting Grave Inscription – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Restaurants
Yang Guang Chinese Restaurant
If you go through the Green Gate and cross the bridge then walk a few steps down Stągiewna Street you will find Yang Guang Chinese Restaurant on your right. If you are tired of all the meat, potatoes and dumplings you have been eating up until now, this is a very good stop for some vegetables. The even have broccoli in garlic sauce, one of our favorites.
Inside – Chińska Yang Guang Restaurant – Gdańsk, Poland
Wonton Soup – Chińska Yang Guang Restaurant – Gdańsk, Poland
Broccoli with Garlic Sauce on White Rice – Chińska Yang Guang Restaurant – Gdańsk, Poland
Sempre Ristorante
The Sempre Ristorante is near the tip of the small island on the other side of the river. It is a modern Italian restaurant that serves good food with an upscale slant on the recipes and the prices. You won’t go wrong eating here, but you will also pay for it, if you know what I mean.
Bruschette and Chicken Soup with Dumplings – Sempre Ristorante – Gdańsk, Poland
Tygle Restaurant
A highly rated restaurant with excellent Polish food is Tygle. Here you will find some classics as well as some new takes on Polish cuisine. If you are a chocolate lover, the urchin dessert is a must try. But be careful, those spikes are dark chocolate and will cause real damage to your diet.
In the Lesser Polish Voivodeship of Poland and cradled by the Vistula River is the second largest city in Poland, Kraków[1]Pronounced Krakoff.. A vibrant, clean and beautiful city, it currently hides its success as a tourist attraction very well.
University Route – Park – Kraków, Poland
Frederic Chopin Piano Monument – Kraków, Poland
The Statue of Jan Matejko – Kraków, Poland
Grunwald Monument – Kraków, Poland
Kraków
One of the oldest towns in Poland, Kraków’s founding goes way back to the eight century. The town was walled during the middle-ages, however most of the wall has not survived modern times.
Bronze Depiction – Barbican Museum and Florian Gate and Town Wall – Kraków, Poland
Bronze Depiction – Barbican Museum and Florian Gate and Town Wall – Kraków, Poland
Gate Entrance – Barbican Museum – Kraków, Poland
Barbican Museum – Kraków, Poland
There are only a small sections of it still left by the Florian Gate and other less noticeable fragments here and there, as well as monuments to the old towers that once blessed the eastern path of the park that circles the city.
Florian’s Gate – Florianska Street – Kraków, Poland
Most of the old town’s streets accommodate the throngs of tourists that visit each day. In particular, they hide walking the park that circles the city like a lazy dragon.
Arsenal Museum – Pijarska Street – Kraków, Poland
Carriage Rides – Pijarska Street – Kraków, Poland
Saint Mary’s Basilica in distance – Pijarska Street – Kraków, Poland
Świętego Jana Street – Kraków, Poland
Pijarska Street – Kraków, Poland
Rynek Główny Main Plaza – Kraków, Poland
Getting There
Our visit here was inspired by previous visits I had had traveling for business in the past. Luckily, our airport in Turin had a direct flight with RyanAir to Kraków. There are train connections to the city, but surely most people drive from the surrounding area and even rent a car at the airport to get here.
Kraków Airport – Kraków, Poland
Kraków Airport – Kraków, Poland
Hotels
Hotel Polski Pod Bialym Orlem
The hotel we stayed at was the Polski pod Bialym Orlem on Pijarska street, which was right next to the Florian Gate. A very nice five-star hotel that had excellent service and was very comfortable.
Entrance – Hotel Polski pod Bialym Orlem – Kraków, Poland
Street View – Hotel Polski pod Bialym Orlem – Kraków, Poland
Inside – Hotel Polski pod Bialym Orlem – Kraków, Poland
Our Suite – Hotel Polski pod Bialym Orlem – Kraków, Poland
Our Suite – Hotel Polski pod Bialym Orlem – Kraków, Poland
Our Suite – Hotel Polski pod Bialym Orlem – Kraków, Poland
Rynek Główny
Rynek Główny is the main square of the city. Here you will find the Town Hall Tower, Cloth Hall and a few monuments. The square is active with many restaurants and cafes encircling it attending patrons. It rivals that Vittorio Veneto Piazza in Turin, which ostensibly is one of the largest, if not the largest in Europe.
Rynek Główny Main Plaza – Kraków, Poland
Town Hall Tower and Market Hall – Rynek Główny Main Plaza – Kraków, Poland
Town Hall Tower and Market Hall – Rynek Główny Main Plaza – Kraków, Poland
Well – Rynek Główny Main Plaza – Kraków, Poland
Rynek Główny Main Plaza – Kraków, Poland
City Donation Box – Rynek Główny Main Plaza – Kraków, Poland
Eos Bendato Sculpture – Gothic Town Hall Tower – Rynek Główny Main Plaza – Kraków, Poland
City Coat of Arms – Rynek Główny Main Plaza – Kraków, Poland
Market Hall – Rynek Główny Main Plaza – Kraków, Poland
Market Hall and Church of St. Wojciech – Rynek Główny Main Plaza – Kraków, Poland
Saint Mary’s Basilica – Rynek Główny Main Plaza – Kraków, Poland
Adam Mickiewicz Monument – Rynek Główny Main Plaza – Kraków, Poland
Plac Szczepański
One of the three large main plazas in the city, the Plac Szczepański is close to Saint Anne’s and the Art Palace. It is also the location of many restaurants and small shops that dot its boundary.
The Art Palace – Kraków, Poland
Place Szczepański Plaza – Kraków, Poland
Art Palace – Place Szczepański Plaza – Kraków, Poland
Bronze Plaza Depiction – Place Szczepański Plaza – Kraków, Poland
Old Stary Theater – Place Szczepański Plaza – Kraków, Poland
Map – Place Szczepański Plaza – Kraków, Poland
Churches And Cathedrals
Kraków if anything, is a city of churches, cathedrals and basilicas. Any one of the catholic faith would be drawn to this city as a moth to a flame. Each one is a beautiful symbol of a proud faith, which by the attendance we witnessed is still enjoyed and celebrated in this city. The faithful come during all times during the day, just to sit, pray and be at peace in their choosen abode of peace. Along with Charlotte, North Carolina, it is known as one of the cities of churches.
Church Of The Transfiguration
On Pijarska Street, not far from our hotel is the Church of the Transfiguration. Perched a bit high overlooking Świętego Jana Street, the church has an amazing vault or ceiling.
Entrance – Church of the Transfiguration – Kraków, Poland
Nave – Church of the Transfiguration – Kraków, Poland
Altar – Church of the Transfiguration – Kraków, Poland
Pulpit – Church of the Transfiguration – Kraków, Poland
Basilica Saint Francis Of Assisi
Typical of Saint Francis of Assisi this unassuming basilica was a pleasure to visit. Dark and unoffending, the ebony side chapel of the Madonna with Child is a real marvel.
Madonna with Child – Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi – Kraków, Poland
Altar – Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi – Kraków, Poland
The nave, with a golden altar beckons you forward, beseeching the faithful inside. The Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi is a thirteenth century church that was one of the first brick and sandstone churches in Poland.
Entrance – Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi – Kraków, Poland
Garden – Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi – Kraków, Poland
Nave – Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi – Kraków, Poland
Church Of Saint Anne
Located close to the Art Palace and the Plac Szczepański the Church of Saint Anne is elegant in its own way. Built in the baroque style, the floor itself is impressive in its own right.
Entrance – Church of Saint Anne – Kraków, Poland
Nave – Church of Saint Anne – Kraków, Poland
Aisle – Church of Saint Anne – Kraków, Poland
The nave, altar, aisles and other aspects of the church speak for themselves. A beautiful church and typical of Catholic Churches found in Poland.
Side Chapel Ceiling – Church of Saint Anne – Kraków, Poland
Side Chapel – Church of Saint Anne – Kraków, Poland
Side Altar – Church of Saint Anne – Kraków, Poland
Altar – Church of Saint Anne – Kraków, Poland
Side Altar – Church of Saint Anne – Kraków, Poland
Organ and Nave Ceiling – Church of Saint Anne – Kraków, Poland
Church Of Saints John The Baptist And John The Evangelist
A small church next to a small Italian restaurant that we ate at, the Church Of Saints John The Baptist And John The Evangelist has a red exterior, small in stature and somewhat a simple baroque interior, but well worth a visit.
Entrance – Church of Saints John the Baptist and John the Evangelist – Kraków, Poland
Altar and Inside – Church of Saints John the Baptist and John the Evangelist – Kraków, Poland
Holy Trinity Church
If you are looking for something small with more spartan lines, then the Holy Trinity Church should be a destination. It singular feature of adornment is in its wooden side chapels, which the photographs below show in better detail.
Entrance – Holy Trinity Church – Kraków, Poland
Nave – Holy Trinity Church – Kraków, Poland
Organ – Holy Trinity Church – Kraków, Poland
Side Chapels – Holy Trinity Church – Kraków, Poland
Pulpit – Holy Trinity Church – Kraków, Poland
Saint Aldabert’s Church
Also known as Church Of Saint Wojciech, Saint Aldabert’s Church is a small chapel that sits on top of an older church.
Church of St. Wojciech – Rynek Główny Main Plaza – Kraków, Poland
Church of St. Wojciech – Rynek Główny Main Plaza – Kraków, Poland
The archealogical remains of the older church may be visited for a small fee. Frankly there is not much to see, but it was interesting nonetheless, even though it was quite short.
Tickets For Two – Saint Aldaberts Church – Kraków, Poland
Entrance – Saint Aldabert’s Church – Kraków, Poland
Old Wooden Door with Iron Doorknob – Saint Aldabert’s Church – Kraków, Poland
Old Romanesque Wall – Saint Aldabert’s Church – Kraków, Poland
Old Romanesque Wall – Saint Aldabert’s Church – Kraków, Poland
Exhibits – Saint Aldabert’s Church – Kraków, Poland
Old Keys and other artifacts – Saint Aldabert’s Church – Kraków, Poland
Old Crucifixes – Saint Aldabert’s Church – Kraków, Poland
Crucifixes and Gold Pendants – Saint Aldabert’s Church – Kraków, Poland
Remains Found – Saint Aldabert’s Church – Kraków, Poland
Exhibits – Saint Aldabert’s Church – Kraków, Poland
Restaurants
In this part we visited two restaurants of note. The Morski Oko and the Jama Michalika, one noted for its food, the other for its artwork.
Morskie Oko Restaurant
The Morskie Oko restaurant is actually one that we visited more than once, more on that later. In this edition we had reservations for lunch, since it can get quite busy.
Entrance – Morskie Oko Restaurant – Kraków, Poland
Downstairs – Morskie Oko Restaurant – Kraków, Poland
Inside Downstairs – Morskie Oko Restaurant – Kraków, Poland
Group Seating – Morskie Oko Restaurant – Kraków, Poland
Patti waiting for lunch – Morskie Oko Restaurant – Kraków, Poland
Inside – Morskie Oko Restaurant – Kraków, Poland
Wines – Morskie Oko Restaurant – Kraków, Poland
Erick – Morskie Oko Restaurant – Kraków, Poland
Our seating was downstairs, where we could enjoy the restaurant’s medieval quality. The food was very good, but in true Polish fashion, very filling. The gołąbki w sosie pomidorowym, or cabbage rolls in tomato sauce, were actually very good, light but at the same time very filling.
Gulash Soup – Morskie Oko Restaurant – Kraków, Poland
Sauerkraut Soup – Morskie Oko Restaurant – Kraków, Poland
Potato Pancakes with Cream and Mushroom Sauce – Morskie Oko Restaurant – Kraków, Poland
Gołąbki w sosie pomidorowym, or Stuffed Cabbage Rolls in Sauce – Morskie Oko Restaurant – Kraków, Poland
Vodka Flight and Espresso – Morskie Oko Restaurant – Kraków, Poland
Jama Michalika Restaurant
The Jama Michalika restaurant, though the food was not as good as the Morskie Oko, it is adorned with artwork. Pedestrians actually visit the inside of the restaurant just to look at the works.
We did not have reservations for this restaurant, but rather visited them since they had perogie on the menu. They were actually quite good, but also quite filling.
Approximately two to two and a half hours away from our place in Turin is the city of Parma. Known for ham, cheese and other delicacies in the region, we had been wanting to go there for some time. Our recent visit was for us full of surprises, including the Pilotta Museum Complex, which was a pleasure for us and central to this post.
Parma
At first we were not too sure about the city. Our first impressions, and to some extent our lasting ones as well, is that it is laid out in a chaotic fashion, even for an Italian town. The mixture of new and old on the outskirts is not very pleasing to the eye and is kind of takes away from the central historic part of the city, which frankly is not very large.
Palazzo Tarasconi – Parma, Italy
Palazzo Bossi Bocchi – Parma, Italy
Governor’s Palace – Parma, Italy
The Parma river as well, suffers from drought and over-irrigation, a mere trickle of its former self. Called a torrente in Italian, or torrent, one can only wonder when the last time the river actually enjoyed that much water.
Torrente Parma – Ponte Caprazucca – Parma, Italy
Torrente Parma – Ponte Caprazucca – Parma, Italy
Torrente Parma – Ponte Caprazucca – Parma, Italy
Ponte Verdi – Parma, Italy
The city does not suffer from tourism and we found the historic parts very pleasant to walk around. There is not much to see, hence our reason for visiting the museums, which we found different and interesting.
We took the FrecciaRossa train from Turin to Milan, then the Regional from Milan to Parma. The regional trains make more stops than the high speed trains, taking an extra half hour to make the hour long trip by high speed rail. The good news is, there are options between Milan and Parma, from FrecciaRossa, Italo, TrenItalia FTP to TrenNord and perhaps more. Our selection was based on scheduling and nothing else.
Strada Cavour
The main street for shopping in the city. It was about a ten minute walk from our hotel and winds its way through the older part of the city, though all of the businesses are modern. You will find all the modern, trendy and chain-like stores here, along with their inflated prices.
Strada Cavour – Parma, Italy
Strada Cavour – Parma, Italy
Strada Cavour – Parma, Italy
Strada Cavour – Parma, Italy
Hotel Stendhal
We stayed at the Hotel Stendhal, a fifteen minute direct walk from the train station. Though we read some concerning reviews on some travel sites, we did not have any issues at all and had the most enjoyable stay. The staff was great and we never had to ask for anything. We had a large superior room on the side of the hotel which was very quiet and comfortable, along with a complimentary breakfast.
Outside Our Hotel – Cortile del Guazzatoio – Parma, Italy
Entrance – Hotel Stendhal – Parma, Italy
Foyer – Hotel Stendhal – Parma, Italy
Pilotta Museum Complex
The Pilotta Museum Complex is the former Faranese Palace that now houses five or six museums, some of which were not open at the time of our visit.
Ponte Verdi – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Tickets For Two – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Entrance – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Parma
The archeological museum offers artifacts from the ancient history in and around Parma. Here are exhibits of the ancient civilizations of the Roman Empire, Greeks and Etruscans who inhabited the Po river valley and the surrounding area thousands of years ago.
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
The museum also has a display of ancient Roman tombs, including sarcophogy and examples of mummified remains.
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Farnese Theater
The Farnese Theater is actually a rather bizarre construction. Built within a very large room of the palace is a theater that was constructed quickly, in order to entertain some political majistrate of the Medici family. However, the event never took place and subsequent to it completion, it was only used eight or nine times.
It eventually succumbed to allied bombings in the mid 1940s and was almost completely destroyed and then rebuilt later, for cultural reasons. Though none of the plaster exterior has never been replaced, as is evident by the missing ceiling, it still enjoys a woddy charm. Luckily, the old frescoes survived and can still be seen today.
Backstage Elements – Farnese Theater – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Galleria Nazionale di Parma
The entrance to the National Gallery is flanked by two huge statues. One of Dionysus and the other or Hercules. They are both impressive in their own right, with the one of Hercules looking like it is right on the boundary of the human anatomy.
Hercules – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Dionysus – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
The rest of the gallery houses a myriad of large paintings in its large hall. Unfortunately there are no benches or seating to admire them, so one can only slowly walk by or stand in front of them for a bit, in order to admire them.
Main Room – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
As of this writing, the back of the gallery held the real prize for a visitor, a work by Leonardo da Vinci called the head of a woman, or “La Scapiliata”. One can see similarities with her face and that of the Mona Lisa, which was painted some time after and is now in the Louvre in Paris, France.
Head of a Woman “La Scapiliata” – Leonardo da Vinci, Vinci, 1452 – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Madonna of the Bowl, Rest after the Return from Egypt – Antonio Allegri detto il Correggio, 1489 – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Palatina Library
The Palatina Library is a large library that is still functioning, although for academic and research purposes only. However, the Petitot Gallery is still open to the public, where one can find a wide variety of topics, mostly in Italian of course.
Art Exhibits in Entrance – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
One Hall – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Old Books – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Side Hall – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
The Bodoni Museum
Anyone who has taken typesetting in school would enjoy the Bodoni Museum. The museum honors the famous Parma typesetter and printer, Giambattista Bodoni, and his eponymous typeface as well. The Bodoni typeface was a favorite of mine in high school, where I learned the intricacies of setting type. I loved its clean lines and serifs, using it to print a set of invitations for my mother at one time[1]To use the museum’s own words, “The severe, neoclassical imprint of the letters, characterized by the stark contrast between the thickness of the strokes and the thinness of the lines and … Continue reading.
Bodoni Bust and Painting – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Printing Press – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Stories of Punching and Printing – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Typesetting Examples – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Typesetting Examples – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Restaurants
You will find most of the non-industrial restaurants away from the main shopping street of Strada Cavour. Reservations are recommended, even for lunch, for these are often used by locals and the business crowd. Most of the Osterias and Trattorias serve wine by the tap in quarter, half and full liter sizes, whereas the corporate restaurants on Cavour serve only by the glass, so they can up-charge for it, like in the United States.
Osteria dei Servi
The Osteria dei Servi is actually housed under the Viale Giovanni Mariotti and has a rather odd entrance. But don’t let that fool you. The restaurant is actually quite nice inside and comfortable. The food is excellent and typical for the area.
Entrance – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Inside – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Bar – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Patti – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Bread and Patti’s Dinner – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Ravioli – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Trattoria Corrieri Parma
Another fine local restaurant is the Trattoria Corrieri Parma. Located further down in the city and by a Parma University building, it offers great food at even lower prices than die Servi. We found the service similar and the menu full of local dishes for us to try.
To use the museum’s own words, “The severe, neoclassical imprint of the letters, characterized by the stark contrast between the thickness of the strokes and the thinness of the lines and serifs; the stark, epigraphic composition of the title pages and dedications; the airy, correct relationship between text and images, between line and line, between light and dark make Bodoni’s page a prodigy of harmony and readability.“
Owing to historical fate perhaps, Dubrovnik, Croatia, was formerly known as Ragusa, or the Republic of Ragusa, and was established some time in the 7th century C.E. from refugees of the old Epidaurum, or Ragusa Vecchia. It had been largely a free state before and after the control by the Byzantine Empire, the Repuplic of Venice and other later powers, including France and Napolean.
Dalmatian Coast – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Dubrovnik
The town is an ancient walled city, that is half surrounded by sea on its southern half. It has a number of entry points, guarded by gates, which in the past maintained its security from threats by land and sea. The primary of which is the Pile Gate, which today has a beautiful garden and play area beneath it.
Park below Fortress Wall – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Entrance to Old Town and Fortress Wall – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Park below Fortress Wall – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
As early as 1991 the Old City was surrounded and laid seige by foreign adversaries and survived, owing to its thick, impenetrable walls and access to the sea. The number of buildings damaged in this unnecessary conflict of a UNESCO World Heritage site were extensive, as the map below shows. This included the cathedral, as well as most churches inside the walls.
Map – Serb and Montenegrin Attack and Seige, 1991 – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Getting There
Train service is relatively limited or non-existent and mostly due to the former Soviet, Yugoslavian and present day Croatian governmental and engineering authorities being unable to overcome technical difficulties building tunnels through the earthquake prone geology in the region. The mountainous terrain runs longitundinally along the coast and is prone to falling apart. Even roadways are difficult to maintain. So other options should be sought out.
Interior – Kapetan Luke Ferry
Interior – Kapetan Luke Ferry
To get there we took the Kapetan Luka ferry service from Korcula to Dubrovnik. It is a two hour trip with one stop along the way. Other means of getting here are by bus, flying and car.
Though the Kapetan Luka service is adequate, the TPLine is commended for several reasons:
First, the ferries are larger and more accommodating.
Second, the crew seem to know there stuff, especially when is comes to stowing your luggage, etc.
Third, your luggage is stowed with you, on-board, inside; not outside in the elements.
Lastly, their internet presence is better and they maintain a very good and well maintained portal where tickets may be purchased directly from them, instead of some other third party application.
Where We Stayed
The hotel options in Dubrovnik can be very expensive, so be prepared for sticker shock, especially during peak season. There are other options, particularly when you can travel during non-peak or willing to venture further out from the Old Town.
Vila Dard Hotel
Located directly above the Old Town and approximately three hundred steps from it, was our hotel, Vila Dard. Unfortunately located on a very busy road, especially in the mornings and early evenings when everyone is rushing to and from work, it can be a bit challenging to cross.
Vila Dard – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Vila Dard Street – Dubrovnik, Croatia
However, it was for us more than 600-700€/night cheaper than staying at, let’s say, the Imperial Hilton down by the city. That’s a huge savings and one can overlook the traffic and inconvenience. It was very clean, fully air-conditioned and our laundry was changed everyday, without any issues with missing towels or other amenities, which we find rather frustrating at other higher priced options. So, in the end, it saved us some money and improved our health a bit, since we did not have to go to the gym and got plenty of exercise.
Lovrijenac Fortress
Located outside the town walls is the Lovrijenac Fortress. Perched high on a hill overlooking the west harbor, it commands a viewpoint of the entire seaside, countryside and harbor that it protects. It also appears to be a favorite venue for weddings and other occasions, since they were setting up for one when we visited.
Lovrijenac Fortress – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Lovrijenac Fortress – Dubrovnik, Croatia
The Lovrijenac Fortress appears to have been built in haste by the people of Ragusa, to resist Venetian rule. The Empire of Venice had already threatened to built a fortress on the same spot, so they could dominate trade and the surrounding area. When they arrived with their ships fully ladened for the task, they found that they were beaten to it by the residents and had to turn back.
The walls around the city are huge, unbroken and remniscent of other great walled cities by the Adriatic Sea. They have resisted attacks for centuries and have filled numerous roles throughout their life, including protection from direct attack, shelter, and even revenue in the form of tourism. Today they provide a unique unbroken path around the city, where those that visit can enjoy the views high upon the perch it provides.
Wall by Entrance – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Massive Fortress Walls – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Franciscan Church and Monastery Tower and the Stradun – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Hill in Old Town – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fortress Wall by Entrance – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Lovrjenak Fortress and Park – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Park Below – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fortress Walls – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Lovrjenak Fortress – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Old Town and Bosanka Hill – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Lovrjenak Fortress – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Patti on Fortress Wall – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Lokrum Island – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Patti in Lookout Tower – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fortress Wall – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Church of St. Ignatius – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Tvrđava Minčeta Tower – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fortress Walls – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Old Cannons – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Old Cannon – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Clock Tower – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Lovrjenac Fortress in distance – City Wall Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Stradun
The major shopping avenue or street in the city is the Stradun. It is also the least protected from the sun and visitors would be keen to visit it early or later on in the day, since the sun beats down on extensive surface and reradiates the heat directly back to your body, thereby adding ten degrees Fahrenheit more to the outside temperature.
Stradun – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Square by Pile Gate – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Stradun Shopping Street – Dubrovnik, Croatia
The Stradun is the straightest and widest street in Dubrovnik and bisects the Old Town from the Pile Gate to the Fishmarket Gate. It offers a few sights along the way and two fountains[1]These were constructed by the Southern Italian and Neapolitan architect and engineer Onofrio della Cava in 1438 and bares his name. which grace each end, the Larger Onofrio Fountain and its diminutive brother, the Small Onofrio Fountain near the Clock Tower and the Fishmarket Gate.
Park by Pile Gate – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Pile Gate – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Pile Gate – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Side Alley – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Clock Tower on Stradun – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fishmarket Gate – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Rector’s Palace
Built for the rector of the Republic of Ragusa between the 14th and 19th centuries, the Rector’s Palace now serves as a museum. A Gothic style building originally, it was destroy a few times and later rebuilt with Renaissance and some Baroque elements.
Interesting Structural Elements – Rector’s Palace – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Interesting Structural Elements – Rector’s Palace – Dubrovnik, Croatia
The museum houses a fine collection of old strong boxes, which show detailed craftmenship by blacksmiths and locksmiths of that time. Upon entering there is also a pair of old bell knockers that are quite interesting.
Clock with Desk – Rector’s Palace – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Rooms – Rector’s Palace – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Desk – Rector’s Palace – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Other Exhibits – Rector’s Palace – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Other Exhibits – Rector’s Palace – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Bedroom – Rector’s Palace – Dubrovnik, Croatia
On the ground floor the Dragon Prison Cell can be investigated, where only the most hardened criminals were kept. Apparently some inscribed their names on the walls, for future tourists to read no doubt.
Tuffa Stone of Prison Room – Rector’s Palace – Dubrovnik, Croatia
In Croatia, there are always Catholic churches to visit. Some are better than others and the ones you will find in Dubrovnik are for the most part not of much interest. Though their importance to the community no doubt remains.
Cathedral of The Assumption of the Virgin Mary
The Assumption of the Virgin Mary, or Dubrovnik Cathedral, was undergoing renovations at the time of our visit and could not be entered. It is located near the Rector’s Palace. Built in the Baroque style of architecture, it was literally destroyed by the devastating Dubrovnik Earthquate of 1667 and later rebuilt.
Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Church of Saint Ignatius
Perched above the Jesuit Stairs is the Church of Saint Ignatius. Formerly part of the Jesuit College, or Collegium Ragusinum, it is currently the finest example of Baroque period architecture in the Old Town.
Entrance – Church Of Saint Ignatius – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Nave – Church Of Saint Ignatius – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Church of Saint Blaise
Built for the patron saint of the Old City, the Church of Saint Blaise occupies an important spot on the Stradun, close the city’s Clock Tower and Rector’s Palace. The plan of this Romanesque style church follows that of a Greek Cross inside, the nave and alter are shown below. It was planned and built shortly after the Black Death hit the city of Dubrovnik in the mid fourteenth century. A statue of Saint Blaise adorns the highest point on its facade.
Entrance – Church of Saint Blaise – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Church of Saint Blaise – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Lokrum Island
A short ferry hop away is the Botanical Garden and Wildlife Refuge for Peacocks and Peahens, Lokrum Island.
Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Tickets For Two – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Our Ferry – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Map – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
The birds are all over the island, however you will find them more often inland than along the coast, or on top of the hill where to fort is located.
Peacock – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Peahens – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Peahen – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Entrance – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
For the most part the island is well marked with trails and you can spend a better part of a day exploring.
Beautiful Blue Water – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Patti – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
The Path up to Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
The Path up to Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Different Plants – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Many Different Species of Trees – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fort Royal
Perched atop the main hill on Lokrum, is Fort Royal. Now partially in ruin, it is only maintained as far as keeping is safe for the tourists. It commands a view of the island, the Dalmatian coastline and of course, Dubrovnik.
Patti hiking up to Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Patti at Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Dubrovnik Old Town – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
The main fort is intack, but the outlying buildings have fallen down and no longer of any interest.
Fort Royal – Lokrum Island – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Franjo Tuđman Bridge
For a small fee you can enjoy a short city tour which will take you to the Franjo Tuđman Bridge. This is actually an interesting outing, since to get there you must pass by and over the Ombla River. This river is actually born out of rock as a spring, perhaps one of the few rivers in the world having claim to do so. And, it is not a small river by any stretch of the imagination, it is quite wide for a spring-few river.
Ombla River and Tudman Bridge – City Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Tudman Bridge – City Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Tudman Bridge – City Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Tudman Bridge – City Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Tudman Bridge – City Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Ombla River – City Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Ombla River – City Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Ombla River and Port – City Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Tudman Bridge – City Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Looking out to sea – City Tour – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Restaurants
We found eating at the more popular restaurants a bit overpriced and the service not as good as some of the more local establishments. No doubt you can be cautious at some of these places and keep the price down, but sometimes the point is to enjoy some of the unique offerings they have while not breaking your budget, this you might find difficult to do, especially if you don’t want to order another pizza!
Tata’s
For us, a great place for breakfast. Very reasonably priced, right below our hotel on Zagrebačka Ulica, it offered all the essentials. Plus, the Pekara Rusica Bakery was right next door in case we wanted to skip a regular breakfast, preferring just a danish or other handheld treat.
Omelette with Toast – Tata’s Restaurant – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Pancakes and Fruit – Tata’s Restaurant – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Taj Mahal Old Town Restaurant
By far our favorite in the Old Town. It specializes in authentic Croatian and Bosnian ethnic cuisines. We can commend the stuffed vegetable dish called Dolma.[2]The menu has it as Sarma/Dolma/Japrak, but the Turkish Sarma and the Albanian Japrak are actually closer to each other and different from Dolma, in that they are wrapped in grape leaves normally. … Continue reading
Entrance – Taj Mahal Old Town Restaurant – Dubrovnik, Croatia
The service was excellent, they never missed a heartbeat and always showed that they were on top of their game. The food overall we found to be moderately priced and we spent considerably less here, than we did at the Dubravka 1836 restaurant.
Red Lentil Soup – Taj Mahal Old Town Restaurant – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Sarma/Dolma/Japrak – Taj Mahal Old Town Restaurant – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Bademli Almasia – Taj Mahal Old Town Restaurant – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Magnolia Restaurant
Outside the main entrance and Pile Gate, in the large plaza, can be found the Magnolia Restaurant. Nothing special, but they offer a variety of food which is good enough for lunch. A bit over-priced, but not too bad. We ordered simple soup and salad combination with some drinks. The service was okay, although they did bring us the wrong lunch at first, an understandable mix-up at such a busy place.
Fish Soup – Magnolia Restaurant – Dubrovnik, Croatia
For our anniversary we booked a table in advance for the Dubravka 1836 Restaurant. It was a pleasant evening and they had the best outside seating, with a overlook of the western port.
Selfie – Dubravka Restaurant – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Patti with her Pina Colada – Dubravka Restaurant – Dubrovnik, Croatia
The food was okay, though not as good as some other places in Croatia we have eaten. The price is on the very high side, considering what you get, which does not include good service. We found the service inattentive and a bit poor, considering all the help that was swirling around. Most of the time they appeared to be just standing around and talking, taking little note how long we waited for them to take our plates away.
Fortress View from Terrace – Dubravka Restaurant – Dubrovnik, Croatia
Mia Tia – Dubravka Restaurant – Dubrovnik, Croatia
In the end, we decided not to order dessert, after having spent a good two hours already at the restaurant. As can be seen below, one main and one side dish run around 50€/person, not cheap, by any stretch of the imagination.
One final impression regarding eating in Croatia in general. We found it more expensive than eating in Italy, and perhaps other larger countries in Europe, though perhaps cheaper than eating in Switzerland. People who read that eating in Croatia at a restaurant is cheap or inexpensive, do NOT believe it, it can be more expensive than eating in the United States, 60€/person for example, for nothing that special and without tips. There are less expensive options, but you have to seek them out and most are ethnic or local restaurants outside the main restaurant hotspots.
We checked out the grocery stores too and found them inline with prices elsewhere in Europe. You will find meat and other similar products a bit expensive, but in general eating in and preparing your own food, especially if you are not a fan of trying something new, might be a less expensive option.
Lastly, as far as Dubrovnik in general is concerned, we found it an interesting place to visit once, but probably would not return. Up to three cruise ships visit the town each day and the population explodes around nine o’clock in the morning and is very busy for the rest of day. If you like a cruise, this is the place for you, since you are already packed in like sardines on the ship already. If not, you might find the hustle and bustle a bit annoying. We could not believe the number of people here and it is not even officially tourism season yet!
I, personally, was a bit dissappointed in the coastline. I had the impression it was going to be more like an Amalfi coastline, or like Cinque Terre, but it’s not. It is craggy, but I just thought it was going to be more dramatic, it’s not! Perhaps down the coast, along Albania’s coast it is more so, I am not sure, I haven’t been there yet…
The menu has it as Sarma/Dolma/Japrak, but the Turkish Sarma and the Albanian Japrak are actually closer to each other and different from Dolma, in that they are wrapped in grape leaves normally. Sarma may be wrapped in grape leaves, but it could also be cabbage leaves, or just plain vegetable, for example, squash. However, for simplicity sake, the words are used interchangeably.
For a few days we enjoyed the company of our cousin Chris, who luckily was traveling for business in the area and was able to stop by for a visit.
Turin
Chris arrived on Friday and I met him at our main train station of Porta Nuova, which because it was coming from Naples and went through Rome, was late by about fifteen minutes.
Cousin Chris Arriving – Porta Nuova – Turin, Italy
For one entire Saturday, the 2nd of May, we were able to enjoy amazing weather and show Chris the city of Turin. One of our major stops was the Open Market in Piazza della Repubblica. There he purchased authentic Italian cheese to take back home with him. Other than that, we just made sure he enjoyed great food here and kept him as comfortable as possible in our apartment for a few days.
Patti and Chris – Giolitti Apartment – Turin, Italy
Chris and Erick – Giolitti Apartment – Turin, Italy
Restaurants
It seemed like we spent more time in the restaurants, trattoria and cafes, than we did walking around. We made a point of it to take him to our two favorite restaurants nearby, which I am happy to say we had reservations for, given the fact the city was packed with people for the Jazz Festival in Turin.
Trattoria D’Agata
Our favorite Trattoria for authentic Silician cuisine is the Trattoria D’Agata in Turin. Here we always enjoy good food, their Arancini are to die for, and good wine.
Chris and Patti talking food – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy
Arancini and Baked Mozzarella – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy
Patti’s Pasta alla Norma – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy
Patate al Forno and Filetta with Pistachios – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy
la Luna Barbera from Alba – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy
Porto di Savona
Another favorite of ours for Piemontese cuisine is the Porta di Savona. Since the weather was so exceptional and it was lunch we sat outside. Located in the corner of the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, we essentially sat on the edge of the rest of chaos going on in the piazza, it was very busy.
Tajarin with Cheese Sauce and Insalata Mista – Porto di Savona Ristorant – Turin, Italy
Chris – Porto di Savona Ristorant – Turin, Italy
We had a great time and we are sure Chris did too!
Grüezi! After our travels in the interior of Switzerland, we spent a few days in Zürich prior to our return. The decision was one out of convenience, since Zürich airport was the closest offering international travel back to the states.
Getting There
Since we were starting from Wengen, we had to take the the Wengneralpenbahn to Lauterbrunnen and then the Berner Oberlandbahn from there to Interlaken Ost. From Interlaken Ost to Bern we still had free fare with our Oberlandbahn passes, so we only had to book first class tickets from there to Zürich. Then we purchased seat reservations for the entire trip using the Swiss Half Fare card.
Wengneralpenbahn – New Snow in Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen, Switzerland
Wengneralpenbahn – New Snow in Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen, Switzerland
A word about the Swiss Half Fare card and Berner Oberlandbahn pass. If you are only passing through the region it probably does not pay to get these, the initial cost is rather high. However, if you are staying in the region for an extended period of time and plan on traveling within it, then it definitely pays for itself.
Train Trip to Zürich – Thunersee, Switzerland
Train Trip to Zürich – Thunersee, Switzerland
Zürich
A modern city by any standard, it is situated on the eponymous lake and also enjoys the dissection of the Limmat and Sihl rivers, as well as a canal and several minor streams.
Schanzengraben – Zürich, Switzerland
Market – Zürich, Switzerland
Bahnhofstrasse – Zürich, Switzerland
The Altstadt, or old city, is partially on a small island, being bounded by the lake, the Limmat river and the Schanzengraben canal, the remaining part lieing to the east of the Limmat, which at one time had also been bounded by the Sielengraben and Hirschengraben moats (which have both been filled in).
The Münsterhof, Münsterbrücke and the Limmatquai are probably the must see places for this city. There are plenty of restaurants in and around this area, as well as shops and other places of business.
We both felt that Zürich as a destination in itself does not offer much, but it is definitely worth of few days in your schedule if you are just passing through the area.
Limmat River – Zürich, Switzerland
Limmat River – Zürich, Switzerland
Limmat River – Zürich, Switzerland
Limmat River – Zürich, Switzerland
Zürichersee – Zürich, Switzerland
Limmat River – Zürich, Switzerland
Limmat River At Night – Zürich, Switzerland
Grüezi – Zürich, Switzerland
Hotels
Hotel Glärnischhof
The Hotel Glärnischhof is situated close the Schanzengraben canal and the Zürichersee, or Lake Zurich. It provides a good location to the old city, as well as the lake for relaxing strolls, boat rides and other forms of entertainment. We did not find many restaurants in the area, so we did have to walk into the old city center each night for dinner.
Hotel Glärnischhof – Main Entrance – Zürich, Switzerland
Hotel Glärnischhof – Side – Zürich, Switzerland
Hotel Glärnischhof – Lobby – Zürich, Switzerland
Restaurants
Zeughauskeller
The Zeughauskeller Restaurant has exactly that, a bunch of military junk and oddities in a building, hanging from the walls or ceiling. It provides interesting things to look at while you are eating your sausages and drinking your beer.
Zeughauskeller Restaurant, Bahnhofstrass, In Gasse – Main Entrance – Zürich, Switzerland
Zeughauskeller Restaurant, Bahnhofstrass, In Gasse – Main Entrance – Zürich, Switzerland
As for sausage, they make it locally and sell some of it by the meter, apparently to go along with that liter of beer (ein Maß) you are going to order. We were even witness to a bit of excitement when the kitchen staff had a small mishap near our table and they gave me a coupon for 20 Swiss Francs for the disturbance. I graciously accepted it using my poor German.
Zeughauskeller Restaurant – Sausage By The Meter – Zürich, Switzerland
Zeughauskeller Restaurant – Jason – Ein Maß Bier Bitte – Zürich, Switzerland
Bern was originally settled by Swabians[1]The Zähringen noble family from around Freiburg im Breisgau in the twelfth century and quickly died out within a century. from the lower parts of Germany, it is the fifth largest in Switzerland and was initially surrounded by the Aare river on three sides, with fortifications protecting it’s west side.
Marktgasse – Zytglogge – Bern, Switzerland
Käfigturm – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Zytglogge – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Bern Fresco – Bern, Switzerland
Getting There
Bern does not have a commercial airport, so you will either have use Zürich‘s or Geneva’s and then take a train. We had already started in Geneva, so taking one of the ICE trains from Geneva to Bern was automatic. However, in typical SBB[2]Schweizerische BundesBahnen or Swiss train fashion, it was halted before leaving the Lake Léman area and we had to find another train to continue our two hour journey, which then turned into a three hour trip[3]There have been few times when traveling by train in Switzerland was a normal affair. It is getting to be more like the Deutscher Bahn.
Bern Train Station – Main Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Platform – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Main Waiting Hall – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Main Waiting Hall – Bern, Switzerland
The City
The old medieval city of Bern is rather compact, due to it being confined by the Aare river. The main train station is on the west side of the city, so it is probably best to find a hotel close to it. We stayed at the Hotel Savoy, three blocks away from the train station.
Gerberngasse – Interesting House – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Rose Garden Hill and Paul Klee Center – Bern, Switzerland
Walking from the train station to the Nydeggbrücke, via the Marktgasse of Kramgasse, should not take more than a twenty-five to thirty minutes without stopping. The main shopping avenue is the Marktgasse, which is lined with many watch stores and most other modern shops you expect to see in city that is heavily traveled. See the restaurant section below for where to go for food.
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Anna Seiler Brunnen – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Porticos and Shops – Bern, Switzerland
Rooftops and Houses across the Aare river – Bern, Switzerland
Old house – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Wasserwerkgasse from bridge – Bern, Switzerland
Brunnen Or Fountains
The city has a lot of brunnen, or fountains in English, especially down the middle of the Marktgasse. Most of these have figures or other mythical forms, stylized perhaps from some historical figure.
There is also the Lischetti-Brunnen, also known as the Postgassbrunnen or Upper Postgassbrunnen, which was erected in 1820 next to the Staatskanzelei (State Chancellery) and is to be used by anyone who wishes to experience being a fountain.
Lischettibrunnen – Kronenbrunner or Upper Postgass Fountain – Bern, Switzerland
Hotel Savoy
A fairly good hotel on the Kramgasse, sharing an entrance with another store. We found it reasonably priced for a Swiss hotel and central for visiting the city. The breakfast is rather expensive, as it is in most Swiss hotels, at 30CHF per person. We found this unreasonable and ventured out each morning to stop at one of the many Konditoreien, or pastry shops, in the neighborhood. This option ran around 9-10CHF per person, but was only coffee and a pastry, which for use was sufficient.
Hotel Savoy – Main Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedrals And Churches
A few religious buildings of note in Bern are the Cathedral of Bern and the Church of Saint Peter and Paul.
Cathedral Of Bern
Cathedral of Bern – Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Nave and Alter – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – History of Tower – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Houses of Patrons – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Intricate Facade over Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Fountain – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Backside – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Intricate Facade over Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Church Of Saint Peter And Paul
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Entrance, Rathausgasse – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Rose Window – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Nave and Altar – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Organ – Bern, Switzerland
Bridges And The Aare River
There are two central bridges that span the Aare at the tip of the city. The Untertorbrücke, the first one to be built and is shown on maps of the city from the seventeenth century, and the Nydeggbrücke, which carries the tram and modern vehicular traffic.
Untertorbrücke – Nydeggbrücke over the Aare – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – The Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – Patti and the Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – Patti and the Aare River, Rose Garden on the hill – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke and the Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Bären Park
On one end of the Nydeggbrücke is the Bärenpark, or Bear Park. As early as the beginning of the sixteenth century the city has been known to have a Bärengraben, or Bear Pit, of some type or another. Ostensibly the city becoming eponymously named for the same in 1191 when the Duke of Zähringen killed a bear first on one of his many famous hunts. But seriously, this is just conjecture and there is more evidence that it was from a pre-existing toponym of Celtic origin, possibly berna, meaning cleft.
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Einsteinhaus
On Marktgasse 49, visitors will find the Einsteinhaus, or the apartment that Albert Einstein lived in during his publication of his ground breaking theories of 1905, including his Special Theory of Relativity.
Kramgasse 49 – Einstein House – Bern, Switzerland
Kramgasse 49 – Einstein House – Bern, Switzerland
The Rosengarden Bern
One top of the hill on the other side of the Aare river is the park containing the Rose Garden, or Rosengarden. Unfortunately for us, the roses were not in bloom in May, so we were unable to enjoy their colors. However, there were other flowers, trees and bushes to be enjoyed in the park.
Rose Garden – Patti on walkway up to garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – Patti and the garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – The garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – The garden – Bern, Switzerland
It is here, that Albert Einstein probably contemplated many of the problems around his Theory of Relativity, and a bench here so commemorates his efforts.
Rose Garden – Einstein bench and overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
From this vantage point you get a very good view of the old Medieval city of Bern, with its many churches, bridges and old style houses.
Rose Garden – Overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – Erick and overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
Restaurants
The Bärenplatz and Waisenhausplatz are central areas for restaurants and have a good mix of local Swiss restaurants to Italian and other cuisines.
Bärenplatz – Market on Waisenhausplatz – Bern, Switzerland
Santa Lucia Ristorante
Another Italian restaurant which has a very active lunch crowd. Here you can enjoy reasonable prices and a wide selection of Italian dishes, including pizza. Our first evening here we enjoyed the soup and spaghetti.
Santa Lucia Ristorante – Minestrone Soup – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Spaghetti Bolognese – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Spaghetti and Tomatoes – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Banana Split – Bern, Switzerland
The second time we visited was for lunch, then I ordered a pizza, which was very good and typical of the Neapolitan style from Naples. The house wine is also very pleasant.
Santa Lucia Ristorante – Pizza Margherita – Bern, Switzerland
Ristorante Luce
On the corner of Zeughausgasse and Waghausegasse is the Italian restaurant of Ristorante Luce. If you are looking for higher end Italian food, look no further. The service here is also exceptional, though the seating was a bit cramped.
Ristorante Luce – Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Ristorante Luce – Patti with her Soup – Bern, Switzerland
Here they serve very good Italian specialties and have an excellent wine list. Here you can find Strozzapreti, or Priest Strangler/Choker Pasta with Mozzarella. A rather large and somewhat gummy pasta with an very interesting history.
Ristorante Luce – Strozzapreti Pasta with Buffalo Mozzarella – Bern, Switzerland
I can specifically attest to spending 150CHF for a 375ml bottle of Ornellaia 2019. A DOC wine from Italy with extremely high ratings which regularly fetches $250-$800 a bottle, a truly amazing wine. So if you are a true wine lover, your pallet might enjoy this restaurant.
Ristorante Luce – Ornellaia Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019 – Bern, Switzerland
If you are into hiking and enjoy a really good weekend excursion, then the Metropolitan town of Turin has something great to offer, the tiny little town of Ivrea. Known for being part of the Via Francigena[1]The ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome. and Five Lake hiking area, it is a great place to spend a few days.
Via Francigena – Hiking and Trail Sign – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Hiking and Trail Guide – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Way through the city – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Way through the city – Ivrea, Italy
Getting There
This town can be reached in just under an hour’s train ride from Porta Nuovo in Turin. The Regional Veloce (RV) runs directly from the main train station, through Porta Susa and onto Ivrea. Unfortunately, the line no longer continues to Aosta, so those who are stopping over have to use the bus service to continue their journeys.
Porta Nuovo Train Station – Main Lobby – Turin, Italy
Ivrea Train Station – Outside – Ivrea, Italy
The Hotel
We stayed at the Hotel 3T on Via Sant’Ulderico, a modern hotel that has most of the amenities. One thing I disliked about this hotel, at least during this time of year (Spring), is that the thermostat makes you believe you have control over the temperature in your room, when in fact you don’t!
3T Hotel – Castle Sabaudo, At Night – Ivrea, Italy
3T Hotel – Our Room, 209 – Ivrea, Italy
3T Hotel – Our Room, 209 – Ivrea, Italy
The Town
The town is cut in two by the Dora Baltea river, which offers a few courses for avid kayakers and seems to draw them from all over. The river here cuts right through the native diorite rock, which can be seen everywhere you look and presents a dark geologic hardness that makes it such a stable building foundation; practically everything, including the hospital, is built on it.
Dora Baltea River – Train Bridge to Aosta, closed – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Ponte Vecchio – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Train Bridge to Aosta, closed – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – From Ponte Vecchio – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Fontana Camillo Olivetti – Ivrea, Italy
There is not much to the town itself, just the Lungodora, or walkway along the river, and one central main street where one can find most of the shops, cafes and other stores.
Dora Baltea River – Corse Re Umberto – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Corse Re Umberto – Ivrea, Italy
Castle Saubauda
A large rectangular castle built in the fourteenth century by the Savoy family. It is only open certain times during the year and one has to reserve their guided tour ahead of time. We were only able to see the outside and sometimes at night it is lit up in different colors.
Sabaudo Castle – Ivrea, Italy
Sabaudo Castle – Ivrea, Italy
Ivrea Cathedral
Actually known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of Saint Mary, or Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, is very close to the castle on the hilltop. It is in need of restoration and there are several, apparently small projects already underway inside the cathedral.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Entrance – Ivrea, Italy
Inside the cathedral is actually quite impressive. The nave is well decorated with ceiling frescoes and religious art. It is quite dark and reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel before that was restored and suffers from decades, if not centuries or candle and other smoke.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Nave and ceiling – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Aisle – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen entrance – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, bricked up window – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Nave and Organ – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Transept – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen ceiling frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
The Crypt
The main attraction of the crypt are the frescoes. When possible the caretakers of the cathedral have installed lighting, so that you can adore without the need for using the flash on your camera, which you should never do.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Restaurants
Moma
Moma is actually a bar and restaurant, so you can stop their early for a drink before dinner, or wait until 7PM and dine there as well. They have a fairly good selection of food which may be considered cosmopolitan and some Piedmont dishes. Both of our dishes were very good and came with rather large portion size which is unusual of Italy.
Moma Restaurant – Pork Filet with French Fries and Coleslaw – Ivrea, Italy
Moma Restaurant – Norwegian Salmon with Potatoes and Eggplant – Ivrea, Italy
After a dismal start and a break in the weather, we were able to explore the city of Porto a bit more rigorously. There are probably only a handful of streets that do not go up or down, so have your trekking legs prepared.
Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal
São Bento Train Station
The inner city train station, and perhaps the original Porto Central Station, is the São Bento Train Station. Known for its tiled waiting hall, it is known now more for its artwork than for its use as a primary station; Campahnã having eclipsed it as the main train station now. Unfortunately, it is beset by a very large public works project outside at the moment, so access is through side entrances for the most part.
Sao Bento Train Station – Entry Hall – Porto, Portugal
Sao Bento Train Station – Entry Hall – Porto, Portugal
Sao Bento Train Station – Tracks – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira
A scenic spot on the River Duoro in the center of the old city is the Praça da Ribeira. It has several pieces of art to enjoy and the Cube Fountain, which is surrounded by a myriad of restaurants and cafe tents. It is along the Cias de Ribeira or promenade where you can enjoy a nice walk, listen to music or just enjoy the river.
Praça da Ribeira – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira – Cube Fountain – Porto, Portugal
Luís I Bridge
Between the Praça da Ribeira, RibeiraDoPorto and the other side of the river, or Vila Nova de Gaia, is the Luís I Bridge, which was originally proposed by Gustave Eiffel, even though he did not win the competition to build it.
Praça da Ribeira – Luis I Bridge – Porto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge – Douro River Upstream – Porto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge – Vila Nova de Gaia – Porto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge – View of Praça da Ribeira – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira – Luis I Bridge – Porto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia
On the other side of the river is the area or civil parish of Vila Nova de Gaia. This prefecture or parish you can find many of the great port wine houses, such as Sandeman, Kopke and Warres to name a few. It also has a very nice river side promenade that can be enjoyed on a nice sunny day.
Vila Nova de Gaia – Praça da Ribeira – Porto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia – Sandeman Port – Porto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal
Churches
Our visit here continues with a few other churches, which we were unable to see the previous day.
Church Of Saint Anthony
A regular church by any measure, the church of St. Anthony does have a remarkable gilded altar, which would be the prize of any structure.
Church of Saint Anthony – Outside – Porto, Portugal
Church of Saint Anthony – Nave and Altar – Porto, Portugal
Church of Saint Anthony – Altar – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church
Best known for its Portuguese tiled exterior, the Carmo Church sits on top of the hill next to the Lion Fountain and its park. The tiling on the outside is unfortunately covered with a gauze, no doubt to protect the surface of the tiles from prolonged exposure to the elements, so taking photographs at a distance is probably best.
Tickets For Two – Carmo Church – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Entrance with Church of the Carmelitas on the left – Porto, Portugal
The interior is nice and in the baroque style of churches. Its other claim to fame are the side altars depicting Christ in one form of tribulation or another.
Carmo Church – Nave from above – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Organ – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Nave and Altar – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Nave and Organ from above – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Side Altar – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Side Altar – Porto, Portugal
The Hidden House
Between the Carmo Church and the Church of the Carmelites is the Hidden House. A four story structure built between the two to prevent the appearance of impropriety, though it has had other uses throughout its 250 years.
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
The Museum
The museum of the Carmo Church houses the typical treasure and other important items used and passed down by the church through the years. There are some things of note, like the collection of hands, as well as other peculiar things that have to be seen to believe.
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Restaurants and Cafes
The restaurants and cafes in Porto come in clusters, perhaps due to it being a tourist hot spot. They seem to line most of the more important streets and more heavily trafficked areas.
Casa Deolinda
A good spot for lunch would be the Casa Deolinda right within the Praça da Ribeira. We actually felt more compelled to eat here only due to the weather, but we were not disappointed. The food was good and the service was above what we had experienced in other places. The prices were not too bad either, considering its location.
Praça da Ribeira – Restaurant Deolinda – Porto, Portugal
Restaurant Deolinda – Vegetable Soup with Tuna Salad – Porto, Portugal
Restaurant Deolinda – Vegetable Soup with Cod Fish Fritters and Hot Chocolate – Porto, Portugal
The weather too, did not disappoint.
Fabrica da Nata Cafe
Known for its Portuguese Nata, or Pastel de Nata, are a custard cream delight found at Fabrica da Nata. There is a special little room within the cafe where they prepare these treats inside a glass enclosure. The cappuccino in Portugal is bit different from its Italian parent, it has more milk and is usually not as strong.
Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Making Pastries – Porto, Portugal
Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Inside – Porto, Portugal
Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Breakfast – Porto, Portugal
Popina Restaurant
On the smaller scale, if you are looking for an authentic Portuguese adventure in cuisine, look no further than Popina. They have classic dishes here that are served like appetizers and are meant to be shared, so think family-style in a way. You select several items from the menu, all of which are brought out when they are ready, and them divide them accordingly. The order in which they are brought out though can appear a bit confused and disorderly, but bear with the process and you should not be disappointed.
Not having an abundance of time, we decided to stay somewhat local a few times and visit Mainz and Frankfurt, both of which are but a stone’s throw away from Offenbach. Since we have been to both several times, we wanted to show other family members these two cities and will post mostly photographs without a lot of text.
Mainz
Holzturm of the old city wall – Mainz, Germany
The Wine Gate – Mainz, Germany
The Rhine river – Mainz, Germany
Rothaus – Mainz, Germany
Street flowers – Mainz, Germany
Restaurants
While in Mainz, we stopped at one of our favorite restaurants, or in this case a Wine house (Weinhaus), that our friends Karl Heinz and Isolde Seegräber introduced us to in the course of one of our earlier visits.
