If you are into hiking and enjoy a really good weekend excursion, then the Metropolitan town of Turin has something great to offer, the tiny little town of Ivrea. Known for being part of the Via Francigena[1]The ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome. and Five Lake hiking area, it is a great place to spend a few days.
Via Francigena – Hiking and Trail Sign – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Hiking and Trail Guide – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Way through the city – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Way through the city – Ivrea, Italy
Getting There
This town can be reached in just under an hour’s train ride from Porta Nuovo in Turin. The Regional Veloce (RV) runs directly from the main train station, through Porta Susa and onto Ivrea. Unfortunately, the line no longer continues to Aosta, so those who are stopping over have to use the bus service to continue their journeys.
Porta Nuovo Train Station – Main Lobby – Turin, Italy
Ivrea Train Station – Outside – Ivrea, Italy
The Hotel
We stayed at the Hotel 3T on Via Sant’Ulderico, a modern hotel that has most of the amenities. One thing I disliked about this hotel, at least during this time of year (Spring), is that the thermostat makes you believe you have control over the temperature in your room, when in fact you don’t!
3T Hotel – Castle Sabaudo, At Night – Ivrea, Italy
3T Hotel – Our Room, 209 – Ivrea, Italy
3T Hotel – Our Room, 209 – Ivrea, Italy
The Town
The town is cut in two by the Dora Baltea river, which offers a few courses for avid kayakers and seems to draw them from all over. The river here cuts right through the native diorite rock, which can be seen everywhere you look and presents a dark geologic hardness that makes it such a stable building foundation; practically everything, including the hospital, is built on it.
Dora Baltea River – Train Bridge to Aosta, closed – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Ponte Vecchio – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Train Bridge to Aosta, closed – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – From Ponte Vecchio – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Fontana Camillo Olivetti – Ivrea, Italy
There is not much to the town itself, just the Lungodora, or walkway along the river, and one central main street where one can find most of the shops, cafes and other stores.
Dora Baltea River – Corse Re Umberto – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Corse Re Umberto – Ivrea, Italy
Castle Saubauda
A large rectangular castle built in the fourteenth century by the Savoy family. It is only open certain times during the year and one has to reserve their guided tour ahead of time. We were only able to see the outside and sometimes at night it is lit up in different colors.
Sabaudo Castle – Ivrea, Italy
Sabaudo Castle – Ivrea, Italy
Ivrea Cathedral
Actually known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of Saint Mary, or Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, is very close to the castle on the hilltop. It is in need of restoration and there are several, apparently small projects already underway inside the cathedral.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Entrance – Ivrea, Italy
Inside the cathedral is actually quite impressive. The nave is well decorated with ceiling frescoes and religious art. It is quite dark and reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel before that was restored and suffers from decades, if not centuries or candle and other smoke.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Nave and ceiling – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Aisle – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen entrance – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, bricked up window – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Nave and Organ – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Transept – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen ceiling frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
The Crypt
The main attraction of the crypt are the frescoes. When possible the caretakers of the cathedral have installed lighting, so that you can adore without the need for using the flash on your camera, which you should never do.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Restaurants
Moma
Moma is actually a bar and restaurant, so you can stop their early for a drink before dinner, or wait until 7PM and dine there as well. They have a fairly good selection of food which may be considered cosmopolitan and some Piedmont dishes. Both of our dishes were very good and came with rather large portion size which is unusual of Italy.
Moma Restaurant – Pork Filet with French Fries and Coleslaw – Ivrea, Italy
Moma Restaurant – Norwegian Salmon with Potatoes and Eggplant – Ivrea, Italy
This area includes the Moorish Castle of São Jorge and a number of the overlooks that the area enjoys. Of course, there is also Lisbon Cathedral, which actually looks like it might have been destroyed by the great 1755 earthquake and rebuilt afterwards, but the cathedral and area were largely spared from any damage due to that quake.
Lisbon Cathedral – Exterior – Lisbon, Portugal
Perhaps contrary to popular belief, Lisbon and Porto are very busy ALL YEAR. It appears that since RyanAir has a HUB in Porto, everyone and his cousin comes to the area for at least the weekend and many for the entire week. This not doubt puts real stress on Porto, which I can not imagine during the summer when it is really hot and full of tourists.
Lisbon on the other hand is a larger city and can handle more people, however, it has the double wamy of having cruise ships dock as well. So expect the lower parts of Lisbon to be always crowded.
Some walk from the Chiado part of town, where our hotel was located, and across the promenade of R. Augusta, is a totally different part of the city, Alfama. Here you can find the Santa Apolónia train station; in fact, check any train ticket you have that travels to Porto or beyond, and you might notice that it might not be necessary to go all the way to Oriente train station, some of those trains actually start in Santa Apolónia.
Tagus River to the Ocean – Lisbon, Portugal
If you walk the area it is quite steep, so be prepared, or for those less inclined to walk and climb, take an alternate mode of transportation like the 12E Tram, a Tuk-Tuk or the bus.
Overlook of Gra̤a РLisbon, Portugal
Church of Our Lady of Grace
The Church of Our Lady of Grace stands on top of one of the hills on this side of the city. It has a beautiful ceiling in the nave, but the altar is rather plain and typical among other churches we have seen.
Church of our Lady of Grace – Lisbon, Portugal
Church of our Lady of Grace – Nave – Lisbon, Portugal
Adjacent to the church is the Convent of Grace, which is temporarily being used as a modern art museum. However, it is nice just to drop in and see the fascinating Portuguese tiling that adorns the walls.
Church of our Lady of Grace – Convent – Lisbon, Portugal
Church of our Lady of Grace – Convent – Lisbon, Portugal
Castle of São Jorge
The Castle of São Jorge is a large Moorish castle with a commanding view of the overall area of Lisbon. It has a surrounding wall with a central castle and a number of amenities, including a cafe and a restaurant.
Castle Gate and Wall – Lisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РTagus River РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РTagus River and Bridge of the 25th of April РLisbon, Portugal
Though you can purchase tickets at the gate, we found the entire staff appeared to be very confused and we got numerous conflicting stories as to what was available, when and where we had to queue in line. We decided to purchase our tickets online, this was actually quicker and more convienent. However, we still had to stand in a line for about an hour, and it isn’t even tourist season, so bring your patience.
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РLisbon Overlook Area РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РPoints of Interest in Tile РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РOld Bronze Cannon РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РInterior РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РPeacocks РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РEntrance to Castle proper РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РInterior of Castle РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РInterior of Castle, Ramparts РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РInterior of Castle РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РInterior of Castle РLisbon, Portugal
Church of Saint Vincent de Fora
The Church of Saint Vincent de Fora is actually pretty far from everything else, but still walkable. From the Church of Grace and some of the observations points, it can be easily seen in the distance, usually with the National Pantheon dome looming in the frame.
Church of St. Vincent de Fora – Dome of the National Pantheon – Lisbon, Portugal
The interior is actually quite spartan and perhaps not worth the effort. However, for a fee you can enter other portions of the grounds like the sacristy, which is known to be far more opulent than the church itself. Having been in so many churches in the past few months, we decided to save our money and continue our travels.
Saint Vincent de Fora – Exterior – Lisbon, Portugal
Saint Vincent de Fora – Nave and Interior – Lisbon, Portugal
Noted in history as the port from which Vasco da Gama departed for his adventures to India, this port town’s most noticeable attribute is it tower. But there is also the monastery, its cloister and the church, all of which represent fabulous examples of the late Gothic Portuguese Manueline style of architecture.
Monastery Square – Lisbon, Portugal
Jerónimos Monastery and the Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem
When you exit the tram the first thing you notice is the Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem across the street. Then the Jerónimos Monastery comes into view, as an extension to these architectural marvels.
Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem – Jerónimos Monastery – Lisbon, Portugal
Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem – Jerónimos Monastery – Lisbon, Portugal
After we visited the Church of St. Vincent we stopped at a small restaurant along the way back called Rendez Vous. They have sort of an eclectic menu which probably does not appeal to everyone, but we found the food and wine very good and would commend the place to anyone looking for something a little different.
Rendez Vour Restaurant – Tuna Salad – Lisbon, Portugal
Rendez Vour Restaurant – Greek Salad, Bread and Fries with Olive Oil and Oregano – Lisbon, Portugal
With optimism in the weather and a plan for a good day, we headed to Sintra, Portugal, in the hopes of seeing the Moorish Castle or the National Palace of Pena. Unfortunately, shortly after we arrived our hopes were dashed after we learned the weather had trashed the place and everything in the park was more or less closed due to too many fallen trees, so a missed outing.
Park – Sintra, Portugal
How To Get There
By metro it takes about forty-five minutes, leaving Lisbon’s Rossio metro station, a number of blocks from our hotel uphill, to Sintra station about a dozen stops away. This metro line is very busy, so be prepared.
Tickets For Two – Sintra, Portugal
Rossio Station – Platform – Lisbon, Portugal
Train Station – Sintra, Portugal
The Town
Is chaotically laid out and has many narrow passageways and alleys. As with most of Portugal, you get the feeling you must always climb up or down, so be prepared for a lot of steps.
Old Buildings – Sintra, Portugal
Municipal Building – Sintra, Portugal
Quinta da Regaleira
The Quinta da Regaleira was another issue. Though we wanted to visit the property, it only has reservations and time slots. Aside from that, the line was so long, since everyone was looking for alternatives due to the closures, that it was quickly out of available times. So we took some photographs and turned around.
Quinta da Regaleira Palace – Sintra, Portugal
Quinta da Regaleira Palace – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace
Having failed to come on a day when the majority of the park was open, we settled on the Biester Palace, so that the day and trip was not a total loss.
Biester Palace – Map – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Stairs to Palace – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Front – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Back Entrance – Sintra, Portugal
Not technically a palace, the residence that is called Biester Palace stands prominently and views from the grounds are very nice. The grounds are quiet enough and there is a cafe where one can enjoy a hot or cold drink while enjoying the beautiful flora.
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
The house itself is decorated with wood, a majority of its finish and main rooms are adorned with something similar, if not, oak. One comes away with the house having an almost Spartan interior and the chapel appears to be the most adorned room in the house.
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Chapel – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Bathroom – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Scullery – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
There is an elevator, though it was never electrified and gives the appearance that it was only used when company was present, or for other civil tasks.
Biester Palace – Elevator Hand Mechanism – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Elevator – Sintra, Portugal
The Ninth Gate
One claim to fame this house has that might appeal to some, it was one of the locations where Roman Polanski shot the film The Ninth Gate. It was during Dean Corso’s travels to visit Victor Fargas that the house and fountain are involved in the movie.
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Ninth Gate Book Prop and Postcards – Sintra, Portugal
Restaurants
In Sintra there are plenty of restaurants and cafes, so you shouldn’t have a difficult time to find a place to eat.
Fatto da Claudio Coelho
A nice place for lunch, service Italian food and other specialties. We each shared the bruschetta and a pasta special, so something simple and somewhat light.
Fatto da Claudio Coelho – Entrance – Sintra, Portugal
Fatto da Claudio Coelho – Patti Waiting For Lunch – Sintra, Portugal
If it is raining out and there is not much else to do, then a trip to Brindisi could be the cure for your rainy day. Though not much to see, nor much to look at, Brindisi does offer a few points of interest. We mainly used it for a short respite during our eighteen day visit to Mezzogiorno.
Getting To Brindisi
From Bari we reserved seats on the FrecciaArgento[1]FrecciaArgento, or TrennItalia’s Silver Arrow service, as opposed to the FrecciaRosso, or Red Arrow service in other areas which only takes a hour. There are other regional offerings, however they usually take longer but are less expensive, so there are options.
Bari Centrale – Waiting for our FrecciaArgento – Bari, Italy
Brindisi Centrale – Brindisi, Italy
Brindisi does have a airport that is serviced by RyanAir. While here we saw several airplanes land and take off during the day and the airport was directly across the water on the other side of the city from our hotel.
Bindisi The City
Brindisi’s Citta Vecchia, or historical center, is a bit elongated but does reach to the bay where the port is located. The Corso Roma is the main avenue for shopping, though it cannot be compared to the one in Bari or other larger towns or cities we have visited along the coast.
Corso Roma – Brindisi, Italy
Corso Roma – Brindisi, Italy
City Market – Brindisi, Italy
Piazza Il Duomo And The Roman Column
The Piazza Il Duomo has the Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista and some other sites to see. The cathedral is rather plain inside, but somewhat impressive from the outside.
Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista – Brindisi, Italy
Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista – Modern Interior – Brindisi, Italy
The Colonne Romane, or Roman Column, was erected in the city to define one of the endpoints of the Appian Way, or the extent of Rome. Others have countered that they were merely erected as a visual aid for mariners to know where the actual port was located. There were two originally, of which only one still exists in all of its glory, the other crumbled in the mid sixteenth century. The crumbled remains of the one were donated to Lecce for their column.
Colonne Romane – Brindisi, Italy
Unesco site – Brindisi, Italy
Colonne Romane – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale
Our hotel was the Grande Albergo Internazionale located on the Viale Regina Margherita down by the water. We booked a suite which overlooked the water.
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Front – Brindisi, Italy
It is a somewhat dated hotel, but has enough amenities to be comfortable. However, the outside and inside looks like it is in need of some restoration. Our room was spacious and the bathroom modern which was a big benefit.
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Patti in our room – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Our room – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Restaurant for Breakfast – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Outside our window – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Outside our window – Brindisi, Italy
Lungomare di Brindisi
As the name implies, you are able to walk along the water for some length along the Lungomare di Brindisi. It starts near the parking area when you enter the port down to, but no further than the Approdo delle Indie. After that begins an Italian Naval Base and you are redirected up a set of stairs and away from the shore.
Viale Regina Margherita – Lungomare di Brindisi – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Italian Mariner monument from the Lungomare di Brindisi – Brindisi, Italy
Viale Regina Margherita – Lungomare di Brindisi – Brindisi, Italy
Brindisi Shuttle Service
From the Lungomare, or Viale Regina Margherita, about where it intersects with Piazza Vittorio Emanuele III is one location you can pick up the shuttle. It has a four stop route along the inlet and completes the circuit about once every twenty minutes. One use, simple route charge was 1.20€ per person, which only excepts contactless credit card or NFC contactless payments from your phone, NO CASH.
Brindisi Shuttle Service – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Dock on the Airport Side – Brindisi, Italy
Brindisi Shuttle Service – Brindisi, Italy
Saint John At The Sepulchre
The St John At The Sepulchre is an ancient eleventh century Church of the Holy Sepulcher with circular construction built over a pre-existing church. It was built to resemble the ancient Anastasis Rotunda of the Holy Selpuchre in Jerusalem with the intention of providing a memory of that structure.
St John At The Sepulchre – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Brindisi, Italy
The monument is intended to show the close relationship between Brindisi and the Holy Land during the time of the crusades. Built by the Knight Order of the Canons Regular sometime before 1128, it was conceived to give those who could not pilgrimage to the Holy Land a feeling for that destination, and for those who have, a reminder of it.
St John At The Sepulchre – Main Entrance – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Media Presentation – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Media Presentation Showing Route To Isreal – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Other Items – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Old Nails, Hinges – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Side Entrance Lintel – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Patio – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Garden In Back – Brindisi, Italy
The hole in the floor shows Roman mosaics belonging to a large Roman house dating back to the first and second century CE.
St John At The Sepulchre – Columns – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Roman Ruins – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Roof Timber Works – Brindisi, Italy
There are multiple frescoes on the walls depicting several different important themes of Christianity. All of which have been damaged by previous ownership, no doubt to repurpose the building for other uses.
St John At The Sepulchre – Deposition From The Cross, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Deesis, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Saint Inside Arcat, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Flagellation, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – The Virgin And The Child, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Pentecost, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Saint George And The Dragon, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Side Entrance Lintel – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Patio – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Garden In Back – Brindisi, Italy
Porta Napoli
The Porta Napoli, also known as the Porta Mesagne, is the oldest entrance to the ancient city. It was constructed during Roman times by Marc Anthony to isolate the city from land side invasions. The Ruga Magistra or main street originated from this gate, which coincides today with via Carmine and via Filomeno Consiglio today.
Porta Napoli – Brindisi, Italy
Porta Napoli – Brindisi, Italy
Castello Svevo
Unlike the map that one of the major search providers tries to imply you can walk the entire way around bay to the Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia; this cannot be done. We found out the difficult way by walking to Castello Svevo or the Swabian Castle of Brindisi, only to find out that you cannot enter without a pass, it is an active Naval Base. Temporary passes can be obtained online, but there is a forty-eight hour waiting period (don’t ask – I have no idea why, however it is required before you may return and enter). Since we are not staying here that long we decided to forgo that pleasure.
So, denied entry, we changed our plans and headed for the Fontana Tancredi, thinking that it might be a sight to see, and afterwards we could just walk toward the bay and find the Lungomare; no such luck on both accounts. Most of the area in and around the castle is restricted and cannot be entered, the fountain is fenced off, overgrown and only trickles water, so total failure on both accounts.
Via Provincial San Vito – Brindisi, Italy
Aldo Moro Monument – Brindisi, Italy
Southern Italian Naval Base – Brindisi, Italy
In fact, they have very large naval ships anchored here as well temporary housing for illegal immigrants. We attempted to go as far as the tennis club, or Circolo Tennis Club, but then turned around. Had we known beforehand, we could have continued further and picked up the bay shuttle about a half kilometer further.
Castello Svevo – Map and where not to go – Brindisi, Italy
While walking back, we discovered the Santuario Santa Maria degli Angeli church. A nondescript church from the outside offers a better view from the inside. If you are in the area of Via Ferrante Fornari and see the church, it is worth to stick your head in and take a look.
Santuario Santa Maria degli Angeli – Brindisi, Italy
Santuario Santa Maria degli Angeli – Nave and Ceiling – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia
The large monument across the bay is the Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia, a naval monument erected for the fallen navy personal of Italy. It has two shore guns on either side and may be climbed for a fee, there is a lookout on the top that has a commanding view of the city.
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Restaurants
Most of the restaurants that we visited were down by the water and along the Lungomare.
Ristorante Windsurf
We chose this restaurant out of convenience, mostly because of the rain and threat of thunderstorms, and glad we did because while we were eating it poured. It was also conveniently located thirty meters from our hotel entrance.
Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – Lobster tank – Brindisi, Italy
The food is typical pizzeria food with a concentration on sea food for everything else. I chose a pizza and Patti stuck with a panini that they offered on the menu. The Negroamaro from Puglia was actually very nice, dry but not overly tannic.
Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – A Negroamaro from Puglia – Brindisi, Italy
Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi
A similar cafe and pizzeria as WindSurf is Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi, located just below the stairs to the Roman Column. We stopped here for a simple lunch consisting of salads, bread and pizza points. The wine was house wine, but was very good.
Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi – Patti’s Green Salad With Fruit And Nuts – Brindisi, Italy
We also stopped later in the evening for dinner, since they were one of the few restaurants around showing pasta with ragu sauce on their menus. Patti ordered the Penne all’Arrabbiata and I ordered the Tagliatelle al Ragú.
Final Thoughts
Although we both thought that Brindisi is rather clean and has some things to offer, we weren’t so sure that we visit, if we didn’t have so much time on our hands being retired. Therefore, for the casual visitor to Italy, we would not commend a visit, Bari and Trani have more to offer.
On a lark, Patti decided to go to Trani, Italy for the day. The morning was clear, blue and fantastic, so we could not expect better weather.
Trani Centrale – Trani, Italy
VIa Cavour – Trani, Italy
Trani is a seaside town on the Adriatic Sea in the region of Apulia. It has great wine, olive oil and food. It has an active fishing community which supports the local economy.
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta
– Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Lighthouses – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Basilica from the castle – Trani, Italy
The City
The city itself is well laid out, even for an ancient town. The historic center though windy and curvy is very clean and well labeled for tourist. After about an hour here we found it a most unexpected delight and were glad we came.
Chiesa Beata Maria Vergine del Monte Carmelo (o del Carmine) – Trani, Italy
Piazza Sacra Regia Udienza – Port of Trani – Trani, Italy
Narrow streets – Trani, Italy
One of the many portals – Trani, Italy
One of the many portals – Trani, Italy
Door with no stairs – Trani, Italy
Orologie Tower – Trani, Italy
Long portal – Trani, Italy
Auditorium San Luigi – Trani, Italy
Church of Saint Claire – Trani, Italy
The Golden or Ancient door – Trani, Italy
Another church – Trani, Italy
The Piazze Quercia has a least one cafe or bar which has outside seating. It is a great place in the spring to stop before lunch and get a drink. We find it relaxing just to watch the locals and the boats going in and out of the harbor, and of course, enjoying the sunshine and the fifty degree weather.
There is a beautiful walkway or sidewalk that enables you to walk around the entire port. Unlike Bari, where you can do this if you can tolerate the smell, the port is clean and well maintained.
Live shrimp – Port of Trani – Trani, Italy
Fishing boats – Port of Trani – Trani, Italy
Port of Trani – Trani, Italy
Port of Trani – Trani, Italy
The fishing community appears to be active daily and some of the ships sell their catch right on the pier. You can find anything from live shrimp and fish to octopus. So, if you can cook in, bring your grocery bag and your wallet.
Parco Giochi Villa Comunale
The Parco Giochi Villa Comunale is located to the right of the Port of Trani as you walk as far as you can in the city. It has a portal that leads up to a great observation place, so that you get a commanding view of the boats and the jetties containing the lighthouses, which are all a different color.
Porto or entrance – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta
– Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Bar Boschetto – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Fishing boat going out to sea – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Park Seal – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
There are some interesting monuments and an old anchor. Walking further, you will happen upon a aviary at the end of the park where they house parakeets.
We actually found it to be an amazing little park with little things to see, along with the aviary with parakeets they also have real parrots, which you will eventually notice are in the trees all around you. When we were here, they were all doing their crazy mating calls and dances on the ground, what a cacophony!
Parrots – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Parrots – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta
In the Piazza Duomo is the Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta, also known as Trani Cathedral. This cathedral is dedicated to Saint Nichola the Pilgrim. It is a very large structure, but it only opens later in the day around 15:30.
Piazza Duomo Front – Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Trani, Italy
Piazza Duomo Front – Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Trani, Italy
There are some restrictions when you enter, so please read the signs, though we saw no enforcement; having said that, it was winter and the slow season, so it may be impractical for them to oversee traffic during that time.
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Frescoes – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Frescoes in the Crypt – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Orthodox bust in the Crypt – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Altar in the Crypt – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Entrance – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Nave – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani
The Castello Svevo di Trani in just a small walk from the Piazza Duomo and Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta. There is actually not much to see, but it does have a few small things of interest. At one time it was a prison and had other incarnations as you go back in time to protect the town. It is also noted to have a large clock on its edifice.
Castello Svevo di Trani – Entrance – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Patti and the Basilica from the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Diorama of the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Painting as you enter – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Sala Federico II room – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Ruins leading to the prison area – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Architecture of the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Old side portal in the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Strange window – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Old prison area of the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Lookout to the sea – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Old prison area of the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Large outside area – Trani, Italy
Restaurants
Since we were only doing a day trip, we were only able to visit one restaurant and that was for lunch.
Giù a Sud, Green Bistro
The Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot is located at Piazza Cesare Battisti in Trani. After viewing the menu outside we decided we would give it a try and we are glad we did.
Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Inside – Trani, Italy
Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Bar and Inside – Trani, Italy
Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Primitivo and bread – Trani, Italy
Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Bean and Lentil soup with croutons – Trani, Italy
Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Orecchiette and Broccoli Rape – Trani, Italy
The food and restaurant is sourced locally from green producers and prepared using artisanal recipes. They had a bean and lentil soup with croutons which was just delicious. I am pretty sure it is probably something that comes off the menu in the summer, but you may ask, in Italy you never know, especially in Mezzogiorno. We thoroughly enjoyed it.
In part one was an initial take on how Bari is an ancient city built on a peninsula in the Adriatic Sea on the east coast of Italy. In this second part, some of the cathedrals and museums that are interesting and available to see upon visiting are discussed.
Lungomare – Bari, Italy
Lungomare – Bari, Italy
One of the many archways – Bari, Italy
The streets in the evening – Bari, Italy
One of the many archways – Bari, Italy
Museums
Of course ancient Bari has its museums, most of which record activities by humans that predate the Roman Empire. In some places in Italy and the Mediterranean Sea, one might come to the conclusion, that if one could dig deep enough one would uncover the big bang as well.
Questura and Municipal buildings – Bari, Italy
The Svevo Castle
If the Bari peninsula were to be looked at like it was a triangle, then the Castello Normanno-Svevo or Norman-Swabian Castle, would occupy the entire lower left hand angle. It is a huge building that occupies a considerable amount of real estate on that side of the old city.
Castello Svevo di Bari – Outside back wall – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Outside wall – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Outside wall – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Outside wall showing mote – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Outside wall – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Castle Well – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Outside wall – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Cappella Palatine – Bari, Italy
Surrounded by a moat that is currently grown in, the exterior appears well kept in spots, but requiring considerable work in other places.
The Swabian Castle Museum
The museum does not contain many artifacts per se, but it does have a very good multi-media presentation and displays in some of the larger spaces.
Castello Svevo di Bari – Federiciano portal stone – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Patti in courtyard – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Lion guarding entrance – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Diorama- Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Artifacts before the castle – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Entrance – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Artifacts before the castle – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Great Hall – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Great Hall – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Great Hall – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – archaeological dig – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Frescos – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Multimedia shows- Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Barletta bust – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – plaster casts – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – plaster casts – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – plaster casts – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – plaster casts – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – plaster cast of a capitol – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – plaster casts – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Griffins from Cathedral Saint Marie Assunta and San Sabino, 12th century – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Castello Svevo di Bari – Griffins from Cathedral Saint Marie Assunta and San Sabino, 12th century – Bari, Italy – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Basilica of Saint Nicola portal – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – altar – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – plaster casts – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Mary with Jesus and two angels from Cathedral dell Assunta and SaÃnt Michele Archangel, 14th century – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – ornate plaster casts – Bari, Italy
Castello Svevo di Bari – Mary with Jesus and two angels from Cathedral of Saint Maria Assunta, 14-15th century – Bari, Italy
Churches and Cathedrals
Cathedral Of Bari
The Cathedral of Bari was built mostly in the last thirty years of the twelfth century. It was built on top of the destroyed Byzantine church that used to stand, as well as older Roman ruins.
Cathedrale di Bari – Outside – Bari, Italy
The interior is rather majestic for an ancient Catholic church and owes much to the simplicity of its architecture.
Cathedrale di Bari – Baptism font – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Aisle along Nave – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Nave – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Right Apse – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Left Apse – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Nave – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Frescos – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Papal Seal – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Column – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Altar – Bari, Italy
The Crypt
The church, architect and builders ensured that below this amazing edifice would be a crypt. The crypt preserves the remains of Saint Sabinus in the main altar, but there are other notable sarcophagi as well.
Cathedrale di Bari – Crypt entrance – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Crypt’s Ornate Ceiling and Columns – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Crypt Main Altar – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Crypt side altar – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Sarcophagus of Colomba di Sens, Crypt – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Crypt – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari РCrypt cr̬che РBari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Crypt Fresco – Bari, Italy
The Archaeological Ruins
Alongside and even below the crypt are some amazing archaeological ruins that extend all the way back to the third century. This includes some incredible mosaics, frescos and even a partial roman road, where one can even see the remains of where the wagon wheels once traveled.
Cathedrale di Bari – Sarcophagus – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Archaeological Roman floor – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Archaeological Roman Mosaic floor – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Archaeological Ornate Mosaic floor – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Archaeological Roman Road – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Archaeological Roman ruins – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Archaeological Roman Mosaic floor and Fresco – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Archaeological Roman ruins – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Archaeological Roman Bath – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Another Sarcophagus – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Archaeological Roman ruins – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Stairs and a Sarcophagus – Succorpo underneath the Cathedral – Bari, Italy
The Church Museum
Finally there is a small museum showing old church vestments and other relics. Not particularly of much interest, so if you wish to skip this part you probably can without much guilt.
Cathedrale di Bari – Church Museum – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Church Museum – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Old Hymnal Parchment, Church Museum – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Ornate Capitol, Church Museum – Bari, Italy
Though having said that, the most interesting thing I though they had were a set of old hymnal parchment rolls.
Cathedrale di Bari – Old Hymnal Parchments, Church Museum – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Old Hymnal Parchments, Church Museum – Bari, Italy
Cathedrale di Bari – Old Hymnal Parchments, Church Museum – Bari, Italy
Restaurants
Ciclatera
Ciclatera, under the sea is a great spot to stop for a drink or to have a small bite to eat. Located on the Lungomare right after the Fort of San Antonio, this little cafe or restaurant has a great bar and food menu. We only stopped for a drink, but what we could see of the menu, the prices seemed pretty reasonable.
Ciclatera, under the sea – Cafe and Bistro – Bari, Italy
Piccinni 28
Located one block over in Murat from the old city on via Niccola Piccinni, is Piccinni 28 Italian restaurant. It appears to be a favorite for locals, since we saw numerous work groups come in and have lunch.
Inside – Restaurant Piccinni 28 – Bari, Italy
They offer pizza and a typical Italian menu with some Apulian twists to it. For us, it was trying something new, so we of course picked the Spaghetti All’Assassina, or assassin’s spaghetti, an overcooked spicy dish with ragu that is rather tasty.
Bari is an ancient city built on a peninsula in the Adriatic Sea on the east coast of Italy. It is part of the Apulia region of that country and for many centuries considered part of Southern Italy, which until early twentieth century was considered distinct from the Northern Italy.
The historic city streets – Bari, Italy
Welcome signs in the city streets – Bari, Italy
More signs in the city streets – Bari, Italy
The pasta ladies offerings – Orecchiette pasta – Bari, Italy
One of the arches in the city – Bari, Italy
Roman scaffolding – Bari, Italy
The Italians here speak their own language, which is distinct from Italian and descended from the Neapolitan Dialect called the Barese Dialect. The differences here are also reflected in the food, pasta and other cultural areas.
The pasta ladies offerings – Orecchiette pasta – Bari, Italy
The pasta ladies offerings – other treats – Bari, Italy
Piazza Mercantile – Bari, Italy
Via Melo di Bari – Bari, Italy
The city itself has four distinct areas or sections, the old ancient part of the city is located on the peninsula. The train station is located in Murat, which may be considered the business section of the city.
Lungomare Imperatore Augusto – Bari, Italy
Lungomare Imperatore Augusto – Patti – Bari, Italy
Via Andrea da Bari – Decorated for Christmas – Bari, Italy
Via Andrea da Bari – Bari, Italy
Getting There
Since we are located in Northern Italian city of Turin, there are two options for us to get there, either the Turin or Milan airport. Since RyanAir has service to many small cities in Italy, Turin being one of them, they were the right choice for us. They provide a direct non-stop flight from Turin to Bari which only takes an hour and a half. It’s not cheap, but on the reasonable side. Even in January, with two flights a day, the plan was almost full.
Leaving Turin – Turin Airport, Turin
RyanAir – Turin Airport, Turin
Flying over the Adriatic Coast of Italy – Italy
Bari Airport – Bari, Italy
Once we landed there were several options to get from the airport to the city. Train, bus, taxi and rent-a-car. When we can, we always prefer and ride the train. We just find it more relaxing and trouble free, but that of course depends on the country and the railroad that is available.
Apulia has its own train system, separate from TrennItalia, so we purchased tickets at the desk before entering the train station (I figure, I can always install the phone application later for any return business). The trip from Bari Airport to Bari Centrale (C.le) takes about thirty minutes with about four of five stops in between.
Bari Airport Train Station – Bari, Italy
Next stop, Bari Centrale – Bari, Italy
Where We Stayed
Frankly, I no longer care for BnBs and will take a hotel over them any day. However, given the opportunity to check other Bed and Breakfast places, outside the crap these applications serve up, we will book our stays with them, provided we have thoroughly checked them out ahead of time using other people’s recommendations as our source material.
More signs in the city streets – Bari, Italy
Welcome signs in the city streets – Bari, Italy
The historic city streets – Bari, Italy
Murex B&B
Murex B&B is a very nice modern Bed & Breakfast in the heart of the ancient city of Bari. The owners are young, attentive and respectful of our needs. The amenities that are provided are sufficient and plentiful. Our room came with breakfast each morning and other treats, that would not normally be provided at some hotels and definitely not at those other places.
Main door – Murex B&B – Bari, Italy
The ascent to our B&B – Murex B&B – Bari, Italy
Our host Antonio – Murex B&B – Bari, Italy
One word of caution however, the staircase to enter is rather steep. So, if you require assistance with your luggage, you should ask. The owners are more than obliging to any requests and will carry it up and down for you.
La Citta room – Murex B&B – Bari, Italy
La Citta room – Murex B&B – Bari, Italy
La Citta room – Murex B&B – Bari, Italy
Our room was La Città , it was spacious, well lit and warm. The bed was firm with a cushion top and it definitely helped me nod off.
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola
The Basilica Pontificia San Nicola was built in the late eleventh and early twelfth centuries and consists of a basic architecture of a nave with neighboring aisles.
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Main Entrance – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Courtyard – Bari, Italy
The ceiling and interior has a rarity to it, that only an ancient church can provide. The roof is made of wood and is occluded by arches buttressing the sides together, few if any at right angles to each other, giving the entire interior a rather haphazard look.
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Interior – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Interior – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Interior – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Interior – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Interior – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Ornate Ceiling – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Altar – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Interior – Bari, Italy
The Crypt
Here you can find the tomb of Saint Nicholas, the patron saint of Christmas. The crypt is a beautiful room with myriad arches all of which are adorned with unique capitols.
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Crypt – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Crypt – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Crypt – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Crypt – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Crypt – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Crypt – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Crypt – Bari, Italy
Basilica Pontificia San Nicola – Crypt – Bari, Italy
Restaurants
Our first day here we only had time for one meal. Since we ate rather late in the afternoon, around three o’clock, we simply weren’t hungry enough for dinner later that evening.
Matiti Pasta Bistrot
This bistrot did not get very good ratings online, however we found both the food and service adequate for lunch. I ordered a glass of red Primitivo wine from the area which was just delicious, and a 5€ glass, it didn’t hurt my wallet either.
Patti’s Caprese – Matiti Pasta Bistro – Bari, Italy
Erick’s Insalata Mista – Matiti Pasta Bistro – Bari, Italy
We kept things simple with a Caprese Salad, an Insalata Mista and later some pasta. After that I had an espresso and a sambuca. The total came to 62€ for two people, with two glasses of wine and coperto.
Patti’s Orecchiette with Speck and Pistachio Cream Sauce – Matiti Pasta Bistro – Bari, Italy
Erick’s Spaghetti and Meatballs – Matiti Pasta Bistro – Bari, Italy
After spending a week in Frankfurt, we decided to spend some time in München, or Munich, Germany. The most affective way to do this from Frankfurt is by train, particularly the ICE DB service. In three hours and some odd number of minutes, you can travel between the two main train stations in comfort.
ICE Train to Munich – Storm Front – München, Germany
With most of the family here, we were seven and traveling by train such a short distance just made the most sense, since our daughter and son-in-law had our grandson along. This gave him some added room to walk around an annoy other people instead of just us, breaking up the monotony of the journey. Not really, but it did provide him enough space to get the wiggles out, as opposed to other modes of transport, like an airplane or automobile.
München
The largest city in Bayern, or Bavaria, Munich is a large, bustling city completely accustomed to tourists and tourism. If you are a mono-lingual English speaker, you will find no problem getting around in Munich, most of the residence and restaurant staff speak fluent English.
Marianplatz
The largest and most central of the squares or piazzas in Munich is the Marianplatz. It is most likely your U- or S-Bahn destination from the Hauptbahnhof and the energetic core of the tourism industry.
Marianplatz and the new Rathaus – München, Germany
The Marianplatz is girdled with high-end shopping, caffes and tourism shops. It also has many historical monuments and fountains, as well as churches and other places of interest.
Neues Rathaus and Glockenspiel
Most people will likely concentrate on the Old City, Marianplatz where the Glockenspiel plays it’s tune everyday at eleven and twelve o’clock (sometimes at seventeen o’clock in the winter).
Neues Rathaus – München, Germany
Der Affenturm – München, Germany
Isar Tor – München, Germany
It plays a rather long ditty that includes the operation of the top and then the bottom carousel of automatons.
Altstadt-Lehel
This region of München lies just to the north of the old city, or Altstadt. Here is where you will find the palaces, gardens and other grand accoutrements of the city.
Museum building – München, Germany
Museum of the 5 continents – München, Germany
Museum – München, Germany
Maximilian von Bayern monument – Maximilianstraße – München, Germany
Luitpoldbrücke – München, Germany
Bavarian National Museum – München, Germany
Dana – In front of the Bavarian National Museum – München, Germany
Dana – In front of the Bavarian National Museum – München, Germany
A large garden located to the north of the main part of the city, it is a very nice place to visit on a sunny day. A large city park with many different things to see and experience, it even has a place that people go to surf, if one can believe such a thing can exist away from the coast in a city.
English Gardens – München, Germany
English Gardens – München, Germany
English Gardens – München, Germany
English Gardens – München, Germany
English Gardens – München, Germany
English Gardens – München, Germany
Eisbachwelle
Just on the south east end of the gardens you will discover the river Eisbach and the Eisbachwelle. This is a fast moving stream that has been conveniently modified through the use of carefully placed stones into a haven for surf-boarders. It’s amazing to stop for a bit just to see their skill and how they are able to throw their boards in and hop on in all but an instant, truly remarkable.
Eisbachwelle – München, Germany
Eisbachwelle – München, Germany
Maximiliansanlagen and the Isar
Another great place for a stroll is Maximilian’s garden. A very well kept park which stretches along the Isar and the Isarinsel or island that provides a cool contemplative place for de-stressing and an escape from the warm summer midday.
The Isar – Luitpoldbrücke – München, Germany
Luitpoldbrücke – München, Germany
Luitpoldbrücke – München, Germany
Dana – In front of the Friedensengel – München, Germany
Friedensengel – München, Germany
Friedensengel – München, Germany
Friedensengel – München, Germany
Friedensengel – München, Germany
Friedensengel – München, Germany
The Isar – München, Germany
Widenmayerstraße promenade – München, Germany
Here you will find the Friedensengel monument and several other interesting points of interest. The two bridges that bound it, the Luitpoldbrücke and the Maximiliansbrücke provide pedestrian friendly points of entry.
The Great Cascades – München, Germany
The Great Cascades – München, Germany
The Great Cascades – München, Germany
The Isar below the Great Cascades – München, Germany
The Isar – Luitpoldbrücke – München, Germany
The Isar – München, Germany
Of note are the Große Kascaden, or Great Cascades, a series of weirs and fish ladders that provide a series of small waterfalls. The Wehr WKW-Praterkraftwerk, or power station, is built into the structure to provide electric power to the city. Through thoughtful design of constructing flood control they have provided electricity as well.
Restaurants
We spent time at the following restaurants. Some are must see, even though the food will not be up to expectations. We found the smaller establishments to be better, especially the service and cleanliness.
Hofbräuhaus
Well, perhaps the largest and most well-known beerhall in München, the Munich Hofbräuhaus is as large and as busy as it will get in a place to eat. They have a gift shop to match your expectations for a large one liter glass.
Entrance – Hofbräuhaus – München, Germany
Carved face – Hofbräuhaus – München, Germany
The band was great and our food was okay. Service is always going to be a problem at such a large establishment, that’s why I prefer the smaller places.
However, if you can overlook the local fauna, an interesting place to eat and drink. I have found a lack of service usually indicates a lack of cleanliness; if they cannot serve you, they cannot clean properly either – just a thought. In any case, one of the go-to places and a must see. Have a drink and if the fauna bother you, avoid the rest of the menu.
Salad – Der Pschorr restaurant – München, Germany
Sauerbraten with Knudel – Zum Dürnbräu – München, Germany
Der Pschorr
Another very good place for German food, perhaps the best that we had while in Munich. The service was very good as well, they kind of went out of their way to welcome families with children. You will find the place open and inviting with a good menu and food. Jett, Meagan and Jason’s baby ate for free, something not seen too often today.
Der Pschorr restaurant – München, Germany
Der Pschorr restaurant – München, Germany
Salad – Der Pschorr restaurant – München, Germany
Burg Pappenheim
One of Dana’s picks and an attempt to find that authentic German restaurant look and feel. It was really close, we found only one waiter that spoke English here, the others spoke German for the most part, though I was confident they could completely understand English.
Entrance – Burg Pappenheim restaurant – München, Germany
Old Augustiner faß – Burg Pappenheim restaurant – München, Germany
Burg Pappenheim restaurant – München, Germany
Burg Pappenheim restaurant – München, Germany
Dana, Meagan, Jett, Jason and Patti – Burg Pappenheim restaurant – München, Germany
Augustiner am Platzl
Overall a good place for German food. The service is better and the staff seems more attentive to customer needs. The food is also better, both tastier and presentation-wise. They can also accommodate larger families without the squeeze. There is however no band, so if you are looking for the Umpa-band look and feel, you will not find it here.
Augustiner am Platzl – München, Germany
Augustiner am Platzl – München, Germany
Augustiner am Platzl – München, Germany
The food and service were very good and the atmosphere a mix of old and new Bavaria. This restaurant is a bit out of the way and a bit of a walk from the city center, but worth the visit.
Zum Dürnbräu
Here we had a pleasant meal outside not far from our hotel, even though the weather was a bit questionable with rain possible. The service was a bit slow, but the food was good and we had a very good time. The sauerbraten was first rate and I got to try the Apfelküchle, or fried apple rings with cinnamon and light sugar, which I found delightful.
Entrance and terrace – Zum Dürnbräu – München, Germany
Sauerbraten with Knudel – Zum Dürnbräu – München, Germany
Apfelküchle – Zum Dürnbräu – München, Germany
Tavernetta Cucina con Pizza
After some time German food creates issues that only Italian food can cure. When you come to this Rubicon, you can cross by considering a place like Tavernetta, where you can enjoy some Italian food. They have a good menu, good service and the prices are not astronomical.
Entrance – Tavernetta Cucina with Pizza – München, Germany
Sign – Tavernetta Cucina with Pizza – München, Germany
Small Caprese – Tavernetta Cucina with Pizza – München, Germany
Tagliatelle Bolognese – Tavernetta Cucina with Pizza – München, Germany
Our trip from Bad Gastein to Linz took us through the Berchtesgaden Alps of Salzburg. As the train starts to navigate through the narrow pass of Salzachtal, the mountains rear up quickly to the point where you aren’t even able to take a photograph of them anymore from the train window.
Coming into Salzburg – Salzburg, Austria
Coming into Salzburg – Salzburg, Austria
Linz The City
Linz is a typical Austrian city and the capital of Upper Austria or OberÖsterreich. It is for the most part clean and has the typical European city layout, with an old medieval part surrounded by a newer main street and some other ancillary shopping avenues in a more planned pattern.
Overlook of Linz – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Linz has somewhat of a checkered past and has had a difficult time getting out from under that reputation; there are reminders in the city everywhere, with it’s Hitlerbauten. Aside from that, the places of interest are all in an area comparable to places like Munich or even Copenhagen. So, you should be able to reach everything within a good twenty to thirty minute walk.
Danube Park – Linz, Austria
Danube Park – Linz, Austria
Nibelungen Bridge – Linz, Austria
Nibelungen Bridge – Linz, Austria
Nibelungen Bridge – Linz, Austria
Danube river – Nibelungen Bridge – Linz, Austria
One comes away with the immediate impression that few, if any of the structures are original. This is probably partially due to the war and the Linzers going contemporary, when they can. The bridges that jump the Danube are for the most part modern, as is much of the architecture in the city. At times you could mistake the city for a similar place in the United States, since many of the shops use English and have cosmopolitan origins.
The Innenstadt
Most restaurants, cafes and shops seem to be along the Hauptstraße in the Innenstadt. Here is where you will find the main tram line, which goes the entire length of this street all the way across the bridge to Urfahr on the other side.
Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Neptune’s Fountain – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Dreifälitigsaule – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Dreifälitigsaule – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Churches
There are several churches worth visiting while in Linz, with special attention to Ursuline and Marien Dom if you are pressed for time. The following two were photographed, but not open at the time. Ignatius Church is also known as the Alter Dom and was the primary church prior to the Linzer Dom being built.
Priester Seminary and church – Linz, Austria
Ignatius Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Ursuline Church
The Ursuline Church is on Landstraße and is somewhat difficult to photograph from the street.
Ursuline Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
However, it has a magnificent inside which many will find interesting.
Inside – Ursuline Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Inside – Ursuline Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Side altar – Ursuline Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Martin Luther Church
In true protestant style, both the outside and inside of the church are rather basic. But from a historical perspective, still interesting to visit.
Martin Luther Church – Linz, Austria
Martin Luther Church – Linz, Austria
Inside – Martin Luther Church – Linz, Austria
Marien Dom
This is Linz’s Cathedral and the largest church in Linz and in Austria. The Marien-Dom is also known as Mariä-Empfängnis-Dom, the New Cathedral or the Linzer Dom. It borders the Altstadt and can be found along the Herrenstraße and Baumbachstraße
Front – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Spire – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
It is a true cathedral and adheres true to the dimensions of the cross in its architecture (seen from the air).
High altar wth crown – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
High altar – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Organ – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Nave – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Inside – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
The Altstadt
The old part of the city is rather small and unremarkable. It is near the Castle and park and runs up to the Upper Austrian government buildings. A short walk down the Hofgasse will bring you to the Schloßberg where the old castle and its grounds are maintained.
Altstadt – Linz, Austria
Former Kremsmünster Abbey. – Altstadt – Linz, Austria
Government building and tower – Altstadt – Linz, Austria
Mozart Forum house – Linz, Austria
The Old Town Hall – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Schloßberg Castle
The Schloßberg Castle is not open on Mondays, so before going there you may want to check the entries times and dates. The other direction you can take to reach the castle is via Tiefergraben and walking through the back part of the park first. Walking this way first you will come across Martins Church and a statue of Kepler.
Old buildings – Tiefer Graben – Linz, Austria
Tiefer Graben – Linz, Austria
Castle city gate – Tiefer Graben – Linz, Austria
Martins church – Linz, Austria
Inside – Martins church – Linz, Austria
Martins Gate – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Kepler’s Monument – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Castle Gate – Castle park – Linz, Austria
The castle is another example of the Linzers throwing old and new architecture together. We are not at all to happy with this trend (including the Louvre in Paris), however, we do not live in the city either and its people obviously feel a need to move forward and live in a more contemporary setting.
Linz from the park – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Small pond – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Friedrich’s Gate – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Friedrich’s Gate with Wappen – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Old castle wall – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Part of the castle – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Nibelungschiff monument – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Linz – Linz, Austria
The grounds have a small park which has a few monuments in it and a very good overlook of the Danube river and Pöstlingberg.
Observation point – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Pöstlingbergbahn And Pöstlingberg
A good half day trip is taking the tram up to Pöstlingberg using the Pöstlingbergbahn or tram. It starts in the Hauptplatz and stops several times along the way to service local residents and students, since there are a few university stops along the way.
Tickets For Two РP̦stlingbergbahn РLinz, Austria
Entrance P̦stlingbergbahn Museum РLinz, Austria
Tram stop Landgutstraße – Pöstlingbergbahn – Linz, Austria
P̦stlingberg stop РP̦stlingbergbahn РLinz, Austria
Castle park entrance РP̦stlingbergbahn РLinz, Austria
The view of Linz once you reach the top is truly worth the time and effort.
Overlook – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Wallfahrts Basilica
On the top of Pöstlingberg sits the Wallfahrts Basilica of the Sieben Schmerzen Mariae, or the Seven Pains of Mary. It has a commanding view of Linz and the surrounding areas.
Outside view – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Towers – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
The basilica inside is quite impressive and is also known as the Pöstlingberg Pilgrimage Church.
Inside – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
It also has a very nice park adjacent to it where you can leisurely stroll while the cool air up there offers a breeze on warm days.
Poetry in the park – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Castle mote – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Castle mote – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Promenade – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Promenade – Castle mote – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Patti in the park – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Grottenbahn
There is also the Grottenbahn for those that have children or are young at heart. Apparently, it is a miniature railway inside that takes young people fantasy ride where there are gnomes and other fairytale characters, most likely with an emphasis on European tales.
Grottenbahn or train – Linz, Austria
Grottenbahn entrance – Linz, Austria
Though we did not take the adventure, we found the cost for one adult to be around 6€/person.
Restaurants
Since we were both feeling a bit under the weather, due to an unusual virus we had both caught; we decided to eat in at the hotel most evenings. Below are the exceptions to that rule and are special places to eat while in Linz.
Jindrak Konditorei
Located throughout Linz are copies of this original konditorei located on Herrenstraße in the altstadt. They are known for the amazing Linzer Torte and other baked delicacies. For any serious dessert lover and a must Kaffee und Kucken stop in mid afternoon when in Linz.
Herrenstraße – Linz, Austria
Jindrak Konditorei – Herrenstraße – Linz, Austria
Linzer Tort – Jindrak Konditorei – Herrenstraße – Linz, Austria
Like the British, the Danes are steeped in the tradition of a royal family. With Copenhagen as the capitol of the country, there are numerous castles and palaces that demonstrate the royal family’s hold on the country and its citizens and I guess their imaginations.
The Royal Family
The family owns, either directly or indirectly, three important landmarks within the city of Copenhagen that are castles or palaces. Much has been turned into museum or tourist attraction, no doubt to keep the family coffers full. Some, like Amalienborg, the royal residence, are guarded and entertain a changing of the guard show.
The Palaces
The are many palaces in Copenhagen, perhaps a bit too many to see in one trip. There are the Amalienborg – which contains four palaces, Christriansborg Palace which are right in town, but there is also Frederiksberg Palace and more further out from the city. If you are into grand buildings and royal history, these will probably be must-see spots.
Amalienborg
The current residence of the royal family is in Amalienborg. This palace occupies are large square in almost four city square blocks. It is divided into four distinct buildings with gardens, one of which is the Amalienborg Palace Museum, which may be visited. Each building is a palace in its own right, they are Christian VII’s Palace, Christian VIII’s Palace, Frederick VIII’s Palace and Christian IX’s Palace.
Amalienborg Slotsplads – Copenhagen, Denmark
Changing of the Guard – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Amalienborg was once the location of two other palaces which either suffered greatly from fire, or burnt to the ground completely. Subsequent construction led to the building of the palaces we see today.
Tickets For Two – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Another chandelier – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Diorama of Christian IX Palace – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
The rooms – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
The rooms – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
The rooms – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
The museum is free to those who enter with a City Card, otherwise the entrance fee is kr.120 (appr. €16)/person. The museum is in a building adjacent to Christian VII’s Palace and has two floors that contain items from the living quarters of past and present royal family members. If you have any transcendent ideas about ownership or property, you may want to skip this museum. I too, had a difficult time understanding why anyone would want to collect that much stuff for personal use. But, I am probably in the minority.
Desk, pipes and photographs – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Royal family photographs – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Furniture and other family items – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
More photographs – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Other furniture – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
A different perspective – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
More royal items – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Library – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Royal children – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Royal children – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
1869 Study – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Royal silver – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Hen in the Egg – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
More royal items – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Lastly, there is a collection of the royal medals and other accoutrements, here is a short slideshow on them.
Order of Chivalry – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Dannebrog Order – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Elephant Order – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Royal Orders of Chivalry – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Medal of Recompense – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Dannebrog Order – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Dannebrog Order – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Dannebrog Order – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Elephant Order – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Elephant’s Order and Chamberlain’s Key – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Christiansborg Palace
Today, Christiansborg Palace not only houses museums and other tourist attractions, but it is also the seat of Danish Government. All three branches of government are represented in the Palace. The palace contains horse stables, an old kitchen and the royal reception rooms, all of which can be visited free with the City Card, or kr.155 (about €9)/person.
Front – Christiansborg Palace – Copenhagen, Denmark
Originally constructed as Absalon’s Castle, it has been sacked, demolished and burnt to the ground numerous times. In fact, on one occasion it was dismantled brick by brick. Nevertheless, the Danes have always rebuilt some palace structure here, no doubt a testament to their fortitude. To date, there have been at least five reincarnations of the structure. The basement contains an archeological site showing the ancient remains for the first palace and perhaps foundations of even older structures.
Be aware, some venues require that you book a time slot, even if you have a City Card. This can be done online, or by showing up at the ticket office and scheduling your visit. The City Card does explain this on the venue’s information site if you click on it.
Rosenborg Castle
As far as castles go, Rosenborg Castle is a fairly small one on the northwest edge of King’s Garden. It was built in Danish Renaissance style in the 1600s as a summer place for King Frederik IV.
Tickets For Two – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Entrance – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Rear Entrance – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The building has very elaborate ceilings, some of which appear to be in the Rococo style.
Rococo ceiling – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Of particular interest is the Danish Throne Chair with the three stately lions in front. The chairs are on the third floor on what used to be called the “Long Hall”, it is now called the “King’s Hall”.
The Long Room – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The Royal Table – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The Coronation Chair – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The Royal Throne – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
There are also several timepieces and at least one Astrolabe of special note.
Large Brass Timepiece – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Large Brass Timepiece – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Astrolabe – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Another Interesting Timepiece – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The rest may be enjoyed in the following slideshow.
The Winter Room – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The Winter Room – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Fireplace – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Ceiling, Winter Room – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Diorama – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Royal toilet – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The Writing room – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The Dark room – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Interesting chest – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The Marble Chamber – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Collections – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Collections – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Christian’s V Chamber – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The Stone Corridor – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The Mirror Cabinet – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The Bronze room – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Another Clock – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Sitting room – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Sitting room – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
King’s Gardens
The castle also has the “King’s Garden”, a complex of garden paths and interesting things to see that the former residence could enjoy.
The King’s Garden – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The King’s Garden – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The King’s Garden – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The King’s Garden – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Restaurants
On The Sunny Side Italian Restaurant
A very good Italian restaurant on the Nyhavn canal which offers good food and has a decent wine list. A bit pricey, but you are on the canal, and what isn’t pricey in Copenhagen?
Pizza – On The Sunny Side – Copenhagen, Denmark
Wine – On The Sunny Side – Copenhagen, Denmark
Fredco’s Deli
A very small establishment on Grønnegade street which provides a very reasonably priced lunch menu that does include salads. Here you can select from a variety of things for your salad, including dressings. Though a bit on the basic side, if you are tired of eating meat based meals every time you sit down, this might be the stop for you. The interior is in the basement and is very utilitarian in look and feel, but you should be able to find a place to sit and enjoy your lunch.
