history – Page 10 – Tickets For Two Plus Baggage

20 October, 201920 October, 2019

Scotland – Inverness

A three-hour drive from Edinburgh will bring you through the center of Scotland and The Highlands, here at the end of Loch Ness sits Inverness.

Inverness

The city itself in October has a strange feel about it, reminiscent of an upstate New York town, think Hudson or Catskill. Though statistics say otherwise, one would think it in decline, or an area that perhaps saw better times.

The people on the other hand are very friendly and seem very comfortable with tourists.

Inverness – Our Hotel – The Glenmoriston

Loch Ness

In order to see the Loch Ness from Inverness you have to travel 15 to 30 minutes southwest on the A82. Along this road there are several places to stop and take photographs.

A bit further on you will find the lazy hamlet of Drumnadrochit and the Castle Urquhart sitting on the lake.

To enter the castle grounds it cost us around 10£ per person, with a senior discount (60+). A fair price for the ruins and direct access to the lake. And yes, there be NO monsters here!

Loch Ness Centre & Exhibition

This is an exhibit on the scientific evidence and history around the Loch Ness monster. Well worth the money, I found it informative and fairly well done. You can even read all the newspaper articles about the hoax or in some cases what may be called a misunderstanding of what people think they saw.

17 October, 201918 October, 2019

Scotland – Edinburgh

We arrived last evening in Scotland, traveling from Winchester through London’s Kings Cross station to Edinburgh’s Waverly station, counting on (according to a well-known phone app) an easy twelve-minute walk to our hotel. And what did we immediately face upon exiting the train station? Steps, hills and a steep ascent!

Edinburgh is hilly, very hilly. In fact, one may say almost bizarre in its construction. It is as though the city has two levels, one for the upper crust, one for the lower crust. And they only mix via a series of stairways, inclines and closes (apparently an old Scottish term to small back alleyways with or without stairs that can be closed off or guarded after dark).

Amazing as this all sounds, Edinburgh does have some interesting things to see and experience. Musicians, for example. I am not sure if they are actual Scots, but they are dressed up in full garb and playing the bagpipes.

One can also say the city is a bit blighted, as one may call it, by the plague of construction and reconstruction going on all over the United Kingdom. It would seem that the government here has seen fit that some things should not fall down. It does happen to mess up one’s attempt at a good photograph though!

20191017_105102 — More Construction and Reconstruction – Enjoy

The Edinburgh Castle

Built on a rocky precipice, or crag, and overlooking the city is the Edinburgh Castle.

It is adjoined to the city via the Royal Mile, a street with shops, monuments and other stores that lead back to the ancient city.

20191017_110944 — Castle Overview – Towards City

The castle is a great thing to see and has many rooms and other historical artifacts that one can enjoy. Notwithstanding, the views of Edinburgh and the harbor are magnificent.

20191017_112655 — Castle Overview – Toward Harbor

Many of the exhibits displayed in the castle have, of course, a military overtone. Which unfortunately in many cultures, clouds and even colors our view of the past. In some cases making it more romantic than it actually was.

The above slide show is provided to give some appreciation to the myriad of military displays and exhibits one can find in the castle.

One jewel amongst all this military might is Saint Margaret’s Church. A quaint little abode which eventually fell within the confines of the castle. It is the oldest structure within the surrounding area and is still used today, although it had many uses in the past.

Greyfriars

If you are looking for more churches or cemeteries, there is Greyfriars. Not far from our hotel, it has some lovely grounds on which you can walk, if you are looking for that nice quiet afternoon stroll.

Greyfriars Bobby

Right across the street from Greyfriars, is the bar and restaurant, Greyfriars Bobby. Named after the dog who ostensibly stood over his master’s grave for fourteen years after he died, the restaurant offers typical Scottish fare, as well as food for tourist (e.g. hamburgers, fries, etc.)

Greyfriars Bobby – Heart Attack Dessert – 12 yr. Mcallans Double Cask Gold with Cranachan (Typical Scottish Dessert)

History Walks and Ghost Tours

Mercat Tours

Mercat Tours holds a fairly good tour of the underground caverns, called History Walk and Ghost Tours.

Though a bit long and having questionable facts, well we are talking ghosts, it was fairly well presented, entertaining and reasonably priced at 13£ per person. And although it was a bit dark down there, we had a good time anyways.

The Real Mary King’s Close Tour

Again, a tour that takes not only below, but above-grounds as well, to show the terrible living conditions in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. Unfortunately, this tour does not allow for photographs, its history is a bit more vague, but it does have a more elaborate Close tour layout and exhibits. If I were to pick one, I would probably pick this one, though it definitely has a more obvious touristy quality to it. The ticket will run you around 16 to 20£ per person, children are less.

The Edinburgh City Museum

This museum is free, except for what ever special exhibits they are having at the time. There is a special floor and area for these and the tickets can be purchased on the ground floor.

20191018_115417 — City Museum – Ground Floor – Grand Atrium

We found the first and third floors to be the most informative. Favoring the Life Sciences, Astronomy and Scottish history above the other areas.

For a rainy afternoon, and there are many in Scotland, a very good choice to learn something and stay dry. It’s actually very good for families since there are numerous hands-on exhibits for children to interact with and learn.

Tomorrow it’s off again, this time to Inverness. We are just hoping for a moderation in the weather for good travels. Till then, later..!

15 October, 2019

England – Salisbury – Stonehenge

A trip from Winchester to Salisbury, where the Salisbury Cathedral is located, and not much further from there the famous Stonehenge, requires you, if you are taking the train, to go to Southampton first, then back up to Salisbury; a round trip that will cost you a bit over an hour’s time and nearly 19£/round-trip.

Salisbury Cathedral

The cathedral in Salisbury apparently contains a few things of note. First it possesses the tallest spire for any church in England. It is also quite unique in that it also possesses a double transept, which can be seen in the main photograph above.

Secondly, it houses one of the copies of the Magna Carta, a vital historic document important to anyone who believes in democracy.

Ante Room where the Magna Carta is housed

Salisbury

Salisbury, pronounced salzbury, is a quaint little city, somewhat larger and a bit busier than its cousin to the east, Winchester. It contains many, what would appear to Americans as typical colonial looking houses and shops. One cannot therefore help to compare places in the New England area of the United States with it.

While visiting, we saw one Roman Gate, the High Street Gate. Originally there were some fives gates around the city, though we only found evidence of the one surviving.

Since our visit coincided with lunch, we found and ate at the Red Lion Hotel. They have a simple menu and drinks, but enough for one to get full and back out exploring.

Stonehenge

20191015_120426

This is my second visit to Stonehenge and the surrounding area remains just as beautiful as I remember it. Though it was still threatening to rain, it was a bit warmer this time. There is not much else to say about the place other than you have to visit it. It’s amazing that neolithic man could have erected something like this, for whatever reasons, with the little technology they had at the time.

Once you are done photographing and exploring the stones, there is a visitor center where you can learn more and get some refreshments. Though it cost us the good part of a day, it’s definitely worth the trip!

14 October, 2019

England – Winchester

Close to a two-hour bus ride to the west-southwest of London is Winchester, just a mere twenty-minute train ride from the coast and Southampton.

20191013_112459 — NationalExpress Bus 032 – Winchester, England

Though we attempted to take a train to this marvelous little town, we ended up scheduling a bus ride through NationalExpress, which provided a more direct albeit one more subject to the vagaries of traffic.

Winchester Cathedral

20191013_163146 — Winchester Cathedral – The Impressive Front Entrance

Just behind our hotel, the Mecure, stands Winchester Cathedral. Because it is no longer funded by the government, there is usually an entrance fee of 9£. But, if you go on a Sunday evening, when it is open for mass you may be lucky enough to enter for free.

As made famous by Frank Sinatra and other pop artist of the 60’s and 70’s, everyone my age probably knows the song “Winchester Cathedral”. Well here is the real thing and an impressive structure it is, along with its history.

Winchester – The Town

The town proper is a very nice place, with its own central shopping pedestrian street with plenty of trendy shops, cafés and restaurants.

Winchester – Cathedral Gates by Dome Alley

The Eclipse Inn – A Very Tiny Place Inside

Above one can see some additional photographs as we took them walking through this lovely little town.

Winchester City Museum

A free and very informative little museum sits almost directly in the middle of town, just a stone’s throw from The Eclipse Inn, called the City Museum.

There are numerous exhibits which starts on the top floor with the Roman Period of Winchester, formerly known to the Romans as Venta Belgarum around 70 A.D. This is followed on second floor (that would be the first floor for Europeans) with an entire section on the Norman Period. And finally on the ground floor with contemporary history.

The Great Hall

20191014_131129 — The Great Hall – Entrance

The Great Hall is a large 13th century hall that features King Arthur’s Round Table. It is the only building remaining of the Winchester Castle that used to reside here and has been turned into a museum.

The Great Hall – King Arthur’s Round Table

The Great Hall – Stained Glass Added At A Later Date

The City Mill

The Winchester City Mill is a restored and fully working water-mill that sits over the river Itchen.

20191014_151623 — Winchester City Mill – Water Coming Out of the Front of the Mill

It costs 6£ to enter and has audio-visual as well as hands-on displays for children. It is a one floor museum with access to the lower section in order to see the actual mill-wheel and transfer gears.

The museum also has a nice little park area where you can sit and enjoy the day, if it’s not raining!

City Mill – Example of How the Power is Transferred

City Mill – Down to the Millrace and the Wheel

City Mill – Where the River Itchen goes in

City Mill – The River Itchen before it reaches the Mill

If you actually watch the entire video presentation you will find it most informative, since it goes into the mill itself, along with its historic ups and downs. The building was even used at one time as a hostel for cyclists and hikers!

12 October, 201912 October, 2019

London – Part Three

Another day in London and more to see. Before we left, our daughter Meagan purchased the 3-day London Pass. The pass is a bit pricey, but gets you into loads of Museums, Memorials, Churches and many other places. This includes, the Churchill War Rooms, HMS Belfast, the Shard, St. Paul’s Cathedral, Westminster Abbey and many others. So we thought it might be a good buy.

Churchill War Rooms

If you have any interest at all how the British and their Prime Minister, Winston Churchill, survived and ultimately helped win the war, then you have to see his war rooms.

As can be imagined, London itself is teaming with memorials from all of its wars. This one however is amazing, because it impresses upon the visited some of the effort, at the highest levels, it took to fight a war on a global scale.

England was not only fighting the Germans, but also the Japanese, who invaded their southeast Asian colonies as well.

20191011_110736 — Churchill’s Direct Line with the White House

During those times both England and America saw the need for direct communications and arrange a phone system to stretch completely across the Atlantic Ocean. A feat we take for granted today.

The War Rooms are full of interactive venues where you can take your time to read, explore and learn about the man who took England through one of the most dangerous and dark times in its history.

The HMS Belfast

As promised in my earlier post, we did indeed have the occasion to board the HMS Belfast. Again, it’s part of the London Pass and allows you to roam a WWII era British Cruiser.

Since we have already discussed the ship in Part One, we give you a slide show of the ship as you can explore and see it.

And if you are looking for enemies, well I imagine this baby can still find ’em..! [Joke: it’s only a prop]

Eating

20190918_114706

If you are ever in London and looking for a place to eat, there are of course as you can imagine, thousands to choose from. We have eaten at the following restaurants and can recommend them all highly.

The Wolseley

We had a brunch here and the atmosphere, perhaps a take on old empire England with Oriental panels, was unique.

The food was everything, from the usual simple English breakfast fare, to the more exotic dishes with fish, animal organs, etc. However, they have bacon and eggs and their egg omelets are great too!

The Hawksmoor Seven Dials

I have no idea how they derived this name, so do not ask. However, if you are looking for a good steak, this is the place to go, a carnivores heaven.

The food prices here are, as expected, a bit on the high side, but not as high as some of the wine. There are only a few entries in the wine list under 50£. For example, the Chateau de Beaucastel above, went for 165£. So bring your plastic, or plenty of cash.

The Ivy

This is perhaps my favorite. A cozy place that serves several different and interesting kinds of fare, backed up by a reasonably priced wine list.

The atmosphere here is just great, since the architecture of the building is a triangle; there are stained glass windows all around you. The bar is the centerpiece and very well done, surrounded by tables with small lamps on them, reminiscent of something out of a by-gone era. Highly recommended!

9 October, 201912 October, 2019

London – Part Two

This being our second day in London, it was time to meet up with our daughter Meagan and her husband Jason and do some real sight-seeing. Though just having flown in from New York City would slow us down a little bit.

London Bridge and the Borough Market

Our first order of business, after having some time to catch-up and then take “The Tube“, was to walk across the real London Bridge from Monument Station. Not to be confused with the Tower Bridge which we will discuss later.

The Borough Market is the quintessential small town market on steroids for a big city like London. It has a myriad of trendy shops and market kiosks, along with traditional farm products from all over Europe being represented with their quality meats and cheeses. Of course, I wanted to purchase some Alpine Cheese or Tyrolese Sausage, but time and fear of having it taken from my luggage on the trip back to Italy, prevented me from doing so.

This walk took us in the general direction of the new “The Shard“, a triangular spire of a building reminiscent of the “One World Trade Center“. After having a very unremarkable lunch at the Horniman at Hays, we ascended The Shard for a view of the city.

As one can imagine, on a good day like ours, you can see the entire city from this height.

From Inside The Shard – Observation Loung, 69th Floor

From Inside The Shard – Observation Deck – Looking Up

From Inside The Shard – Observation Deck, 72th Floor

HMS Belfast

The HMS Belfast is a Town-class British 6 inch gun light cruiser of World War II vintage. Similar in age to the U.S.S. North Carolina in Wilmington, North Carolina, this ship has real class and some very nice lines. If time permits I hope to go back and have a peak inside.

The Tower Bridge and Tower of London

When London comes to mind for me, I think of the BBC and the river Thames flowing under the Tower Bridge as a preamble to TV shows I frequently watched on PBS.

20191009_164310 — The Tower Bridge – An Iconic London Landmark

Since I last saw it, years ago, the bridge appears to be woefully in need of a paint job, though nonetheless it is still graceful in appearance.

As some may already know, the Tower Bridge is most likely named after the Tower of London, that well-known ancient prison and current repository for the Crown Jewels.

The grounds to the Tower of London are rather large, and there is quite a lot to see here. There are several museums to visit, all of which appear to have been done in very good detail.

20191009_163520 — Tower of London – Changing of the Guard

One can also see a similar “Changing of the Guard” that you can witness at Buckingham Palace. Just behind the guards above, is the entrance to the Crown Jewels.

As had been alluded to before, there are several other towers that one can visit, all of which have different histories. One of the better ones, and which also involves Sir Walter Raleigh, of North Carolina fame, is the Bloody Tower.

The Bloody Tower – Sir Walter Raleigh’s Study

From 1603 until 1616, Sir Walter Raleigh was held prisoner here. Though he was afforded amenities not many other prisoners were given, including gardening to make herbal remedies and other concoctions, his internment still must have been very unpleasant.

20 September, 201921 September, 2019

Côte d’Azur – Monaco

Where to start, especially when visiting the most densely populated place on Earth? I guess for us, that would be the SNCF train station, which is about a 30 minute ride from Nice. In Monaco, it drops you off in a tunnel, like other places we enjoyed in Cinque Terre, Italy. So like there, we had to walk a long tunnel and climb some stairs to finally emerge and enjoy our destination.

Monaco Harbor

Once you start walking, you can tell that space here is at a premium. Even the sidewalks are not as generously proportioned as other places that we have visited.

Monaco_4

Since our plan was to see the Oceanographic Institute of Monaco and the museum there, we immediately headed off in that direction.

Within ten minutes or so, we found ourselves walking along the Avenue de la Quarantaine. Viewing the port, which when compared with photographs of the 1970s, was crammed with watercraft of all sizes.

On the point where you need to take a right and walk along the coast, is a theatre called the Theatre du Fort Antoine. Though very nice, with an almost modern appeal, it is not considered a cultural spot for the city. Proceeding along the Digue de L’Avant Port, you walk directly toward the institute.

Musée Océanographique

OceanographicInstitute_1 — Oceanographic Institute of Monaco – Sea View

Also known as the Oceanographic Institute of Monaco; a rather impressive building from the sea. The former study and laboratory for Jacques-Ives Cousteau and his adventures, is itself also responsible for introducing some of the invasive species now threatening the Mediterranean Sea — via the unconscionable practice of flushing unwanted biological organisms down the toilet or drain, as practiced in other developed countries as well.

Oceanographic Institute of Monaco – Internal Entrance from Parking Garage

Oceanographic Institute of Monaco – Main Entrance

The Institute is well fitted to handle a large number of visitors with underground parking, that accommodates large buses and escalators to assist all, up to the ticket lobby. One must first pass multiple shops and other facilities, before entering the institute to enjoy the museum and/or aquarium.

OceanographicInstitute_4 — Tickets For Two

The Museum

It is divided into two equally impressive multi-level rooms which contain a very large selection of specimens, stories and artifacts from the natural world, encompassing the globe.

The large main hall has a very large wall display meant to be offered as a shadowbox of significant developments in oceanography, which happily includes the Calypso.

With specific emphasis on the oceans and their habitats, the collection also includes some archeological specimens in the form of fossils and replication of prehistoric animals. These are used as a pedagogical device and comparison to present day species which are on display here.

OceanographicInstitute_Museum_3 — Fish from the Deep Oceans

One can find one of two displays on deep-sea creatures as well, which are interesting to see, even if it is in a petrified state.

OceanographicInstitute_Museum_10

There is also a section detailing the scientific devices and methods used in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s.

OceanographicInstitute_Museum_06 — One Of Cousteau’s Submarines

Outside, there is apparently the first submarine Cousteau used early in his career.

It took us a little over an hour to complete the museum, which we did before seeing the aquarium.

The Aquarium

I have been to many aquariums, but I must say this one ranks up at the top five for sure. Not only for the breath and depth of species they have, but also the specimens and facilities are very well-kept. All the animals appear quite normal in behavior and have more than sufficient space to enjoy what surroundings they have been given.

There are a few large main tanks which host a myriad of species and most of the large predators, including sharks.

OceanographicInstitute_Aquarium_18 — The Nautilus Tank

The rare species that they do have, include the Cuttlefish and the Nautilis. With the Cuttlefish, you definitely get the feeling that this animal is not only looking back at you, but that there is also some analysis going on as well — definitely an intelligent species.

My favorites are unfortunately the ones I used to have in fish tanks. The Emperor Angelfish, Hippo Tang and Copperbanded Butterfly fish stand out to me to be some of the most interesting and beautiful specimens.

But, the Damselfish are also great to view, with their luminescent blue and their proclivity for darting back and forth.

Even with the current onslaught against the Amazon, there are also Piranha here too. One can only wonder when this species will be threatened too, if not already.

Seahorse are one of the more popular attractions, most likely because they are so different from all of the normal or bony fishes. But then again, what is a normal fish?

The Parrotfish – He Kept Diving To Eat Gravel

Patti and Ericka – Enjoying the Aquarium

The Seahorse and Nautilus Displays at the Aquarium

Eating In Monaco

After our long visit at the institute, it was time to get something to eat. Not but a five-minute walk away, we found Restaurant L’Aurora.

Monaco_RestaurantAurore_1 — Restaurant L’Aurore – Fine Food and Good Service

This is another restaurant that will remind those who travel along the coast of France and Italy of Niçose style. The menu offers a fusion of French and Italian dishes. It is sometimes unclear in the Côte d’Azur, if you are eating French or Italian; either will claim the dishes and cuisine are theirs! However, this is a good restaurant. The food was very good and the staff very accommodating. I had the blue plate special, just one selection of which there were many.

Daily Special – Ravioli – Ummm-Umm-Good!

Monte Carlo

Not far from the train station, perhaps a 20 minute walk away, is Monte Carlo. Having come this far we pushed forward up the hill and up to Monte Carlo to see what, if anything, it was all about.

Our initial impression was no one lives here, all we saw were tourists. If one took the tourists away, then no one would be walking around. Obviously, just a playground for the filthy rich. Even the sidewalks are tiled and run perfectly to adjoin all the buildings where they meet. I saw no homeless people.

Monaco_MonteCarlo_3 — Patti and Ericka – Walking in Monte Carlo

Almost every store and door has a doorman; there are security personnel walking around everywhere. You get the distinct impression that whether you live here or not, you are suspected at all times.

Monaco_MonteCarlo_4 — Casino de Monte Carlo

The Casino de Monte Carlo is perhaps the only architecturally significant building in this area. Though a bit ostentatious, it has a certain appeal, even for those not expecting it.

The Prince’s Palace of Monaco

A quick detour from the Oceanographic Institute will take you to the Prince’s Palace of Monaco.

Not much to see from the outside and there is a considerable piazza outside, probably doubling as a parking lot for important occasions. Not interested in the inside, no relation of ours, we took our photographs and left for other sites.

Conclusion

Though I found the city-state interesting, I have no wish to live there; it appears devoid of real life.

Freiheit liebe ich und die Luft über frischer Erde; lieber noch will ich auf Ochsenhäuten schlafen, als auf ihren Würden und Achtbarkeiten.

Ich bin zu heiss und verbrannt von eigenen Gedanken: oft will es mir den Athem nehmen. Da muss ich in’s Freie und weg aus allen verstaubten Stuben.

— Friedrich Nietzsche

19 September, 2019

Côte d’Azur – Antibes

Our trip to Antibes, which today is the major port for the Côtes d’Azur, was mainly due to visit the Musée Picasso. From Nice, by way of the SNCF train system, we disembarked from the main train station at the upper part of town, near the base of the port and walked into town.

Antibes – The Old City

The old city is some 15 to 20 minute walk along the Avenue de le Liberation, Avenue Paul Arène and Boulevard d’Aguillon.

Antibe – Start of the Boulevard d’Aguillon

Antibes is not as impressive as some of the other towns and cities you will find along this famous coast, but we found that it has its own kind of charm.

It has many narrow side streets filled with shops and a very large plaza, Place Nationale, where vendors of all kinds sell different things. While we were there, a market similar to one we would call a flea market in the States, was in full swing. Everything from furniture to estate items were offered for sale.

The old city is also a great place to just wander along street to street. Turning a corner you never know what you may find. In some small streets there are still old-style electric wires on glass insulators, a throw-back no doubt of the 1950’s or 60’s.

The Ramparts from the Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse

Antibes – Ericka and Patti walking the Streets

The Sea from the Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse

Beach from the Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse

Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse and the Colonne a la Mer

Pointe Bacon as Viewed from Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse

Below the Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse

Additional areas we wander through are shown above, enjoy.

Where To Eat

As with most tourist spots, there are plenty of places to eat and there are some tourists here; no doubt drawn here for the same reasons we went, Picasso.

Antibes_LeChaudron_1

On the tip of the main plaza, Place Nationale, just around the corner on Rue Sade, is Le Chaudron. After a quick survey of what was available outside, we choose it because of its menu and decor. It turned out to be a cozy little place with good food.

Risotto with Bacon, Squash and Parmessan for Lunch – Bon Appétit

All in all with the addition of the museum stop we consider Antibes a very nice place to visit. It one of the remaining if not the last active working port on this coast so you will also see plenty of maritime shops and stores as well as those for tourists.

Picasso Museum

Located at Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse and Montée Dor de la Souchère right next to the sea is the Musée Picasso. Housed in a very well-kept structure called the Grimaldi Castle (1368-1608), it commands a space in the old city few other buildings are afforded, not even the churches. The castle was built on top of the ancient Greek acropolis of the former city of Antipolis.

The building was purchase in 1925 by the city of Antibes to become what was known then as the Grimaldi Museum. Picasso actually spent time here in 1946 and used it as a workshop. He subsequently made a very generous donation to the museum, some of which were even created there.

Antibes_Picasso_24 — Pablo Picasso – circa 1946

The exhibit is impressive and contains many of his works from his 1946 period. There is probably something here for every taste but the main themes nudes and shellfish (apparently inspired by the meals he partook while there).

Antibes_Picasso_25 — Pablo Picasso – circa 1946

There are also several photographs of the artist along with text and one can also purchase an audio guide for the entire collection.

Note: Aside from the sculptor if there is any interest at all in me providing captions for the works below, then please send me a review with your request. I will also remove this comment after I have done so. Enjoy!

17 September, 201918 September, 2019

Côte d’Azur – Villefranche-sur-Mer

Villefranche-sur-Mer_5 — Villefranche-sur-Mer

Sitting less than two miles from Nice is Villefranche-sur-Mer, a mere walk away. Since this little port town is also part of the Côte d’Azur SNCF train system, we decided to do just that, one sunny day. We took a walk over the Mont Boron and took the train back.

Walking From Nice

If you are lucky enough to visit this quaint little town on the sea while no cruise ship is in the bay, then you would be as lucky as we were the day we decided to walk there from Nice. A frequent stop of cruise ships Villefranche-sur-Mer is the most used cruise ship docking port in France. Luckily we were spared both the site and the influx of tourists that accompanies such an ocurrence.

Mont Boron – French Parks Do Not Use Poisons

Mont Boron – The Bay of Villefranche-sur-Mer

From the old city of Nice, we ascended Mont Boron, which I must say is much higher on the side of Fort du Mont Alban than we experienced on Castle Hill, Mont Boron’s smaller cousin. However, there are very good paths that switchbacks all the way up to help you with the ascent.

Fort du Mont Alban

The fort from the outside appears to be a four-sided bastion fort. Made entirely of stone, it stands impressively on top of the mountain. Unfortunately, entrance cannot be gained and it appears to be closed. There are no indications that it has ever been opened to the public.

With the exception of walking up the front stairs to the main door, there appear to be no other entrances on the other sides.

Fort du Mont Alban – Ericka from Front Gate

After getting our fill of the view from this vantage point, our walk to Villefranche-sur-Mer continued by finding the path to the town about a hundred meters to the left, leaving the fort. On your map, this path may be called the Chemin du Fort du Mont Alban.

Villefranche-sur-Mer_13 — Patti Descending the Chemin du Fort du Mont Alban

The path starts off easily without much slope, but it progressively gets steeper and less developed the further down you go, until you finally hit the town itself. So, care should be taken.

The Town On The Sea

Villefranche-sur-Mer_22 — The Bay of Villefranche-sur-Mer from Mayssa Beach Restaurant

From the path you will exit via a walkway to the Avenue du Fort. Since we were thirsty and starting to get hungry, we followed our noses down and finally found the Avenue du Marechal Foch. We found a cafe there for a quick drink. Then it was off to find a restaurant. Ericka found one overlooking the water called Mayssa Beach. A good pick, great service, excellent view and good food at a reasonable price.

After haven eaten and relaxed a bit, we decided to walk the Quai de l’Amiral Courbet. The town is actually quite small and has very narrow streets. Enjoy the following photographs from this little gem on the coast.

Villefranche-sur-Mer – Quai de l’Amiral Courbet

Villefranche-sur-Mer – Avenue du Maréchal Foch

View of Fort Alban from Villefranche-sur-Mer

Villefranche-sur-Mer – Chapelle Saint-Pierre

17 September, 2019

Côte d’Azur – Èze-Village

Eze_0

The tiny medieval town of Èze-Village sits like a barnacle some fourteen hundred feet above the sea. From this perch you can see miles of coastline. The other part of the commune Èze-sur-Mer sits directly below it, very close to the sea. Historically, it is very old, going way back before Roman times. As I write this, I must confess some incredulity as why anyone would build something back then so high up and away from the sea. The only answer I can come up with is for protection from what I can only conjecture.

Getting There From Nice

To get to Èze-Village (tourism) from Nice you have several public commuting options, in order of difficulty. You can take the bus directly there. The route was 82 at the time of this writing, but this may change, so check the bus schedule. The easiest was to do this is at the Information Center at the Nice Train Station. Keep in mind that buses depart from different places in the city, so you will either have to walk or make other arrangements, bus or tram perhaps, to get there. If a direct bus route is not to your liking you can also take the SNCF train. These run along the coast and depart from Nice regularly and stop at Èze-sur-Mer. You will then have to take the bus to Èze-Village atop the hill, or, hike up the hill which will take about an hour.

Eze_1 — *Èze-Village – From the Bus Stop*

For those who experience motion sickness take care, as any bus ride you take will require the necessary sedatives or medications. The roads are very windy and have numerous switchbacks!

Eze_38 — The Nietzsche Footpath – Length Over 2km

For those who cannot see their own toes and cannot touch them without bending their knees, I would not consider trying to hike up the mountain. It is somewhat treacherous and steep. We used it to return and on the way down we saw an older couple who were going down and having trouble (read shortness of breath, etc). The Nietzsche Footpath is impressive, it is not a real footpath but more like a hiking trail and has probably taken its share of victims over the years. Be smart and do NOT ignore the sign at the start.

Not knowing these options ahead of time, we decided to take the bus directly from Nice. Before it even arrived, there was quite a group of people waiting at the stop. If you do have motion sickness issues you may want to wait for a bus that is not packed or ask someone on the bus once you are on, if you may have a window seat. This is especially true if your bus driver, like ours, must have dreams of driving Formula One race cars! If your bus is as crowded as ours was, you may not be able to look out. So again, be prepared, you’ve been warned!

The Botanical Garden

Eze_14 — Èze-Village – Overview from Botanical Garden

At the summit of this beautiful little town, sits a Botanical Garden. Called Èze Botanical Garden it displays vegetation that typically grows along the Mediterranean coast. The entry fee for us was 5€ and you pay right there before you go in. It’s probably money well spent since the views are amazing and they obviously use the money to keep the garden up, which I must say is in fantastic condition.

There are also several places in the garden to take photographs.

Devil’s Bridge Plaque – Botanical Garden

The Botanical Garden also has an excellent view of the Devil’s Bridge (I know every town and country seems to have this bridge, but it’s pretty cool to see anyway).

The Perfumeries

Galimard Perfumery – Visitor Center Display

Galimard Perfumery – Cologne/Perfume Mixing Station

In Èze-Village there are several Perfumeries where one can make an appointment to actually spend time with a certified Perfumologist and mix their own fragrance. The two major ones that sit next to one another, are Galimard and Fragonard. We chose Galimard, for whatever reason and found the whole process quite intriguing, though completely out of my league (I just do not have the nose for it). The cost at 80€ each can be considered high but includes you walking away with your own scent. Which, if you consider would be in the range of 50€ to 60€, probably is not a bad deal for expert help.

Getting Back To Nice

Eze_32 — Tagliatelle al Ragu, Salad and Wine – YUM!

After all of this, it was time for lunch. We found a nice little place right at the beginning of the village called “Mets Vins Chics“. They serve all kinds of lunch fare and wine at reasonable prices. If you do come to this area, you may notice how closely related the food in this area is to the neighboring Italian cities and towns. With the historical fluidity of borders and commerce, it should not be a surprise and it sure tastes good!

Once finished with our meal, our daughter Ericka wanted to check out Fragonard as well. They have somewhat of a larger showroom but unfortunately no longer mixed nor sold the fragrance she was interested in. So we left there, kind of disappointed.

Eze_34 — The Nietzsche Footpath – Treacherous, like his Philosophy

It was time to head back and I decided to take the Nietzsche Footpath and the SNCF train back to Nice. The path is very steep and one must take care to make sure you do not slip and fall. It is also very long and will take you approximately 40 to 45 minutes just to descend. Then, there is another 5 minutes or so to walk to the train station along the road where the path exits.

The Nietzsche Footpath – Ericka Was Not Having Fun

The Nietzsche Footpath – Starts Out Innocent Enough

Èze-Village is a very nice, interesting place to visit. There is not much there save the view and the garden, so I would suggest bundling it with something else, like the Perfumery, to make it worth the time and expense.