Turin – Museum Wanderings

Recently while taking a break from planning our next big set of travels for September and October, we decided to visit another set of museums in Turin which one could call unusual if not down right odd. I would say odd because when one thinks of a museum, at least the first one below would not immediately pop into one’s mind.

The cost for each of the two museums above was €5 each. However, one can purchase a €10 entrance pass which includes the first two museums as well as the Museum of Fruit.

Museum of Criminal Anthropology

This Museum of Criminal Anthropology is located on the same block as the Museum of Human Anatomy. At via Pietro Giuria, it is housed in a somewhat unassuming building and if you were not actually looking for it you might pass by it altogether.

MuseumCriminalAnthropology_0 — Entrance to the Museum of Criminal Anthropology

The building inside, like so many in Turin, has a grand architectural style inside and was probably under the influence of one of the many great architects that have worked in this city.

MuseumCriminalAnthropology_2 — The Beautifully Adorned Ceiling before the Entrance to the Museum

So as to not bore you with the benefactor’s history of this museum, you may visit the website to learn more if you wish, let’s just say that once inside you get a very good idea of just how backward science and medicine were in those days. The main displays in this museum are those of skulls and artifacts from criminal patients who were often labeled crazy or insane. Many of the skulls were labeled with the crimes that each of the individuals committed, all of course written in Latin.

MuseumCriminalAnthropology_4 — Cases Housing Patient Skulls

The adjacent side of the floor contained numerous examples of the implements used in many of the crimes that were committed.

MuseumCriminalAnthropology_1 — Knives and other Handmade and often Strange Implements used by the Patients

If I were to sum up my thoughts of this very interesting museum it would be one of great curiosity. Not only for the obviously poor people who were involved and in some cases mistreated and misdiagnosed by their treating physicians, but for the times in which they lived. Many of which would have benefited from our medical knowledge of today, perhaps to the point of never turning to crime. As for the doctors and scientists involved it must have been a time of great discovery, however misguided some of them employed their influence and knowledge.

It took us a little over an hour to visit the entire museum and we would recommend it, though we would consider it a bit on the morbid side.

The Museum of Human Anatomy

On via Corso Massimo d’Azeglio and the adjacent street and same block as the previous museum one can visit the Museum of Human Anatomy. This is another museum where some may not be appropriate, especially if they are uncomfortable with anatomy, blood, brains or guts. So plan appropriately.

MuseumAnatomy_1 — Museum of Human Anatomy

It can however be used as it had been in the past, as a very good pedagogical device for learning more about oneself and what composes the human organism. Having been used in the past as part of the medical university system in Turin it still offers valuable insights to visitors.

MuseumAnatomy_2 — Internal Entrance to the Museum

This museum is also housed on a single floor. As you begin your tour you first learn of basic anatomy and view examples human and other animal skeletons.

MuseumAnatomy_4 — The Introductory Case showing Human and Animal Skeletons

Once you move through the internal entrance door, after purchasing your tickets, you will see examples of human dwarf- and gigantism. This is followed by displays of the anatomical differences between the human sexes. After that, each successive colonnade displays in both wax and actual human form (samples that have been preserved in solution) specific areas of the body.

MuseumAnatomy_3 — Curios filled with Human Anatomical Samples

Finally in the back of the museum one will find an in-depth study of the human nervous system, brains and actual examples of how individual nerves are routed and connected in the body.

MuseumCriminalAnthropology_3 — A Large Figure showing how very important Anatomical Features are related

I would greatly encourage anyone with children to visit the museum. Though not for everyone, it can be used as a great teaching aid and perhaps put some young mind on the path of becoming a doctor of medicine or forensics. It’s also great just to learn how the scientific community in the late 18 and early 19 centuries learned about and taught anatomy.

Museum of the Risorgimento – The Apartment

Our next visit was actually triggered by an offer on Turin’s official website of free admission for a tour of the apartment associate with the Museum of the Risorgimento. The Risorgimento of course was the political and social movement that consolidated different states of Italy into a single state, or what became the Kingdom of Italy in the 19th century. It began in 1815 in Vienna and was completed in Rome after it became the capital Italy in 1871.

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The part that we actually saw is not open often and is not actually part of the museum proper, but rather an adjunct to it. Special tickets are provided at a specific time during the day, so you must watch the website for when these are available.

MuseumRisorgimento_Apartment_0 — Cities and Towns where Baroque Architect Guarino Guarini had influence

The apartment and the museum itself owe their legacy to Guarino Guarini, an influential architect or the baroque style of his day. He is responsible for many important architectural works of this style, none more so than the examples he left in Turin. However, he is also responsible for many other important works in a wide area that covers both Italy and France, as shown above.

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Emanuele’s rooms as styled after the Baroque influences of Guarini are impressive. Though one can say the gold leaf is a bit overdone the parquet flooring is amazing, even though it is showing its age.

The Oval Shape of the Spiral Staircase as seen from below

Typical Ovens and Dumbwaiter as Designed by Guarini

Though our self-guided tour took all of thirty to forty minutes it was nonetheless well worth the time, since absolutely no other expense was incurred (thank you Turin!) for us by doing so. If you are also fortunate enough to have the opportunity to visit these impressive rooms and architecturally significant buildings, we suggest you do so. We found them very compelling.

3 August, 20194 August, 2019

Susa – Old Roman Appeal

If one were to take Trenitalia from Turin Porta Nuova west to its logical end, one would find Susa, a quiet little alpine town built by the Gauls sometime before the Roman Empire. Excited? You should be, we were and were not disappointed.

We entered the town via the train station, an hour’s ride from our main train station in Turin. As we traveled down the Susa Valley, somewhere starting around Avigliana, we slowly became surrounded by hills, then mountains.

TurinPN_Susa_Aug_2019 — Train route down the Susa Valley

Upon reaching Susa, we were encircled by Graian Alps. , especially Rocciamelone which sits just due north of the town.

Susa_OverlookParkAugusto_Aug_2019 — Overlooking the *Park of Augusto*, with *Rocciamelone* towering overhead

We had arrived around eleven o’clock in the morning, ready for some serious tourist trekking of the town and a peak at the food festival they were having this weekend.

and before the massive food fight (tongue in cheek)

Gauls and Romans

The town, like many very old towns in Italy, enjoys a rich history dating back before and including the Roman Empire. When the Roman Empire ascended into existence after the Roman Republic, Susa became a voluntary part of it in the 1st century BC.

Susa_CesareAugustusArch_Aug_2019 — Ceasar Augustus Arch, Susa, 8 BC

The arch was positioned along the Via Cozia (today known as Via delle Gallie), the road that led to Gaul. Its age and architecture are impressive, it is also amazing that it has stood in such good shape for over two thousand years!

Susa_RomanAqueduct_Aug3_2019 — Roman Aqueduct Terme Graziane and Gates

The aqueduct above is impressive itself and was built to feed water to baths somewhere, however it actually disguises a dirty little Gaul secret. The wall that connects to it on the left masks a set of holes carved into the rocks that were supposedly used to collect blood from Gaul sacrifices. Nice right? Those Gauls knew how to party.

Susa_Patti_CivicMuseumGrounds_Aug_2019 — Patti on the grounds of the Civic Museum for Roman History

Susa Around Town

If you are not so inclined to delve deeply into the Roman history of the area, it is easy enough just to enjoy the town itself.

Susa_CathedralofSanGiusto_Aug_2019 — Cathedral of San Giusto

There is the old Cathedral of San Giusto, which was built in Romanesque style.

Susa_LookingTowards_France_Aug_2019 — Dora Riparia’s Glacial Blue color in Susa

The Dora Riparia makes its trek through Susa carrying its aquamarine glacial waters. It eventually is joined by other tributaries, especially the Cenischia, before it reaches Turin and joins the river Po.

Susa_ComuneDeSusa_Aug_2019 — Susa Torre, Comune di Susa

The Torre in Susa, a building obviously repurposed over the years.

Susa_PiazzaDellaTorre_Aug_2019 — Piazza della Torre, Susa

Pizzeria Ristorante Italia

Finally after a few hours enjoying the absolutely gorgeous weather and amazing scenery it was time for something to eat. We decided the street food we saw was not going to slake our thirst nor satiate us, so we ventured away from the center of town, which we also found much too noisy (they do allow cars to flow through it). From the Piazza Trento we walked down the via Francesco Rolando and found an obvious favorite, Pizzeria Ristorante Italia.

The restaurant was actually quite busy; the photograph above being taken before the mass of locals entered in small groups to eat their lunch. Many of which ordered the blue plate and much to our chagrin got served before ourselves. Oh well, it wasn’t like we were in a hurry, being retired is so nice…

Susa A Great One Day Adventure

We had a marvelous time in Susa and want to come back in the Fall and perhaps Winter to enjoy the change of season and their Christmas market respectively. So we encourage you, if you are ever in the vicinity of Turin, do not dismiss Susa as a possible day trip. Check their calendar first, just in case they have something special going on. Even if they don’t, a one day trip just for the history will be worth it. Until then, here are some extra photographs of Susa for your enjoyment.

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30 July, 2019

Avigliana – A Valley Jewel

A short trip by train just outside and to the west of Turin lies Avigliana, a medieval town some would call a small city. However, regardless of its size, it is charming nonetheless.

TurinToAvigliana — Turin Porta Nouva to Avigliana via Trenitalia

TrainStation_Avigliana_July2019 — Avigliana Train Station

We arrived on a picture perfect day with only a few clouds hovering over the mountains to the North and West and no threat of rain whatsoever in sight.

SacraDiSanMichele_Avigliana_July2019 — Abbey Sacra di San Michele

As soon as we left the train station we could see the Abbey Sacra di San Michele perched on the Monte Pirchiriano to the West. From Avigliana this is also an easy sight to visit if you are traveling by car. However, even if you are traveling by train and on foot it is also possible if you have the time. It lies some ten kilometers from town and has history that dates back to the tenth century. Our trip centered more on the historic part of town and visiting the lakes, which promised to be magnificent.

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Our ascent to the town was along a more or less direct route from the train station. Instead of following the signs near the train station, we walked via San Giuseppe to via Porta Ferrata. Once you reach the fork in the road take the right branch which will bring you to the Church of Santa Croce and an uncommon overlook of the Susa Valley. Coming back down and continuing a bit further we came across the Porta Ferrata, an old medieval gate that dates back to the 13th century.

PrattoDelRio_MtMusine_Avigliana_July2019 — Panoramic view from the overlook at the Church of Santa Croce

We had now spent a little over an hour walking through the narrow streets and alleys, exploring those little areas that afforded us access. From the spine of the hill on which the town sits, one can get some great photographs of the mountains, including historic landmarks.

TorreDiOrologio_ParrochiaSSGiovanniEPietro_Avigliana_July2019 — From via Dell’Orologio the Torre dell’Orologio and cupola of the Parrochia SS. Giovanni e Pietro

From the via dell’Orologio we quickly descended the historic center of town to make our way to the lakes. (It is best before you leave to download any maps as well as familiarize yourself with your overall route. We found cellular service in the town a bit spotty, so if you are addicted to travel-by-phone only, you may run into difficulties and feel lost at times.) However, if you are lucky enough to find the main road, via Garibaldi that leads to Corso Laghi, you are all set; the maar lakes are South on that road.

LagoGrande_Avigliana_July2019 — Lago Grande di Avigliana

After about a fifteen or twenty-minute walk we came across the first lake, Lago Grande, meaning “large lake”. The term maar comes from the fact that both of these lakes are essentially volcanic craters. The volcanoes are of course extinct, but since the lava domes they once had have collapsed, the depressions have filled with water making these amazing lakes. The green tint comes from a mixture of mountain glacier runoff and algae. However they got there, on a beautiful sunny day they are just amazing to see and enjoy.

Residents must enjoy the peace the lakes and mountains offer them since it appears that no motorboats are allowed on the them, only sailboats and others that require human power. We also witnessed several people swimming the width of the large lake which must be close to one kilometer. There is also a diving school on the East bank of the large lake where you can take diving lessons. Though we were within a short walk to the smaller lake we decided not to go, We had both walked over three miles and were starting to get a bit tired.

GriffinPatricia_LagoGrande_Avigliana_Juli2019 — Patti enjoying the weather and a rest from all of our walking

The stroll back into town took another twenty or so minutes and we were now both hungry and looking for something to eat. We had thought about eating somewhere along the lake, but none of the restaurant menus there appealed to us. So we headed for the main piazza in town, piazza Conte Rosso.

ParrocchiaSSGiovanniEPietro_Avigliana_July2019 — Chiesa de San Giovanni

Retracing our route back to the piazza and up the long street stairs of via Garibaldi we see the Church of San Giovanni from under the Porta San Giovanni. The church stands there almost confused that it is no longer held up on the one side by a building that most likely once stood there. It most likely had been torn down centuries ago, but the scars from its lost companion are still obvious in the relentless sun. The facade, which one must say is somewhat unique, dates back to the 14th and 15th centuries and seems to borrow from several styles.

PiazzaConteRosso_Castello_Avigliana_July2019 — Piazza Conte Rosso

Piazza Conte Rosso is a working piazza, with cars co-mingling with pedestrians. From here one can see the ruins of the old castle on the hill, Castello di Avigliana. There are also several caffés and bars here, as well as the restaurant, San Michele.

RistoranteStMichele_Avigliana_July2019 — Ristorante San Michele

The food at Ristorante San Michele is very good and moderately expensive. There are daily specials and several dishes that are unique to the Piedmont. They also serve bio wine which is environmentally friendly, from the Piedmont, quite unique and is very, very good!

If you are in the area of the Piedmont or Turin and have a few hours or a day extra, then Avigliana might be a very relaxing choice for you. There is definitely enough to see and do, you can rent boats on the lakes and swim, and there is more than enough to eat and drink.

Here are some other photographs, enjoy!

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12 June, 201923 August, 2020

Turin – Museum Reali – Da Vinci Exhibit

MuseumFront — Museum Reali – Main Entrance

For the next few months, the Museum Reali here in Turin is sponsoring an exhibit of some of Leonardo da Vinci’s works. TicketsForTwo So my wife and I thought it would be a great opportunity to see the originals of his work for which up to now we have only been fortunate enough to see in books.

The tickets are actually purchased at the ticket office, for which there are plenty of signs to point you in the correct direction (you shouldn’t get lost.) The entrance fee is a bit high, 15€/person, but we thought it is Leonardo and his works usually do not disappoint. So we purchased our tickets and headed to the museum.

One word of caution, though it is advertised that there are some fifty plus works in the collection, they are not all produced by Leonardo. Some are only attributed to him through his working with colleagues and apprentices. So one must pay attention to the note cards for each piece or, if you have paid for it, the audio headset (we no longer get these since we have always found them not to work very well.)

Dioramas and Models

The collection boasts of a few models and dioramas which the visitor can enjoy. Though not directly built by Leonardo, they are from designs that he had put forth in his many notebooks and journals.

ScythedChariot — Allesandro Siriati’s – Scythed Chariot, 1956

Anatomical Studies and Drawings

Most the of original Leonardo works have to do with his studies of human and animal forms. He was particularly adept at musculature and studies of the face.

C_HerculesAndNemeanLion — Hercules with the Nemean Lion, 1505-08

According to the museum, the above drawing was probably an initial sketch for a proposed statue that never was made. It was apparently destined to stand next to his statue of David in Florence once it was completed.

D_MaleHeadLaurelWreath — da Vinci – Male head in profile with a Laurel, 1506-11

There are several sketches and drawings of the human head. Some, like the above, just to capture the heroic nature of some of his models. Others for more exact studies into the human proportions of the face and all of its parts.

E_StudiesOfAHead — da Vinci – Studies of the Proportions of the Face and of the Eye, 1489-90

The one on the left above was a study in the proportions of the eye. This was subsequently glued onto another sheet to join it to his study of the proportions of the overall face. Both show Leonardo‘s interest in the mathematical proportions of his subjects and how they were involved with one’s ability to see, providing us evidence of his overall curiosity of the human condition.

G_DaVinciSelfPortrait — da Vinci – Self Portrait, 1517-18

The portrait to the left is described by the museum as being a self-portrait of the master himself. Though an obviously brilliant work with its economy of lines, etc., it does evoke a sense of wonder as to whether he could have achieved such details from himself, given the deplorable state of mirror technology at that time. It is also very possible that it is either his idealistic image of himself or perhaps more likely of a philosopher of old. In either case it has become our accepted representation of the master who has earned the right to be so represented by his enormous collection of works and detailed analysis of everything he had undertaken.

Poetry and Literary Works

Though actually not known for it, Leonardo did some writing. The museum has several examples of his poetry on display.

F_LeonardoPainting — Autographed Sonnet with Self Portrait while Frescoing the Ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, 1508-12

The most notable of which is the self-portrait above. The sonnet describes Leonardo‘s “Beard in the Sky” position while painting the Sistine Chapel.

Flight and More Familiar Works

Mechanics seemed to have been one of Leonardo‘s passions. Most of use are somewhat acquainted with his works on the subjects. Even the Wright Brothers read his works on the subjects as an introduction to flight mechanics.

H_CodexOnBirdFlight_2 — da Vinci – Codex Atlanticus, 1493-94

In the above codex Leonardo explored the mechanics and structure of the bird wing. He was very interested in how this could be expressed mechanically with the use of wood and rope. The above design is also articulated in a model which hangs very near the above sketch.

H_CodexOnBirdFlight — da Vinci – Codex on the Flight of Birds, 1505

Finally his Codex on the Flight of Birds goes into great detail. There are some eighteen or so pages of documentation around this subject for which he had hope to pull together into a book on the subject, but never completed it.

Conclusion

An excellent primer on Leonardo‘s studies, as well as his excellent ability for detailing with pen and ink. There is also a short video on how the writing instruments and inks were developed in that time period which we found very informative.

Though a bit expensive, if you are at all curious and can afford it we think it worth the time and expense.

30 May, 201930 May, 2019

Asti – A Relaxing Little Town

AstiKarte_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — A Map of Asti

Upon arrival and leaving the local train station a map of Asti, strategically located for those visiting the tiny city, greets all. It is actually quite informative and gives anyone a good overview of the local points of interest. However in order to have seen the map above one probably also missed the pedestrian tunnel to cross the busy intersection to town from the train station, we did!

Asti_PiazzaStatuto_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Piazza Statuto

If you bear to the left after the traffic circle and upon entering the town one of the first sites and piazzas, like any other typical Italian town, is the Piazza Statuto. A quaint little piazza in what I would call a lazy and relaxing little town.

Asti_PiazzaSanSecundo_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Piazza San Secondo – left view

Piazza San Secondo by contrast is a much larger piazza and is ringed with some shopping, if you are inclined to do any shopping while here. In the background popping up over the rooftops one can also see the top of the Torre Troyana.

Asti_PiazzaSanSecundo_2_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Piazza San Secondo – right view

Of course the dominant building in this piazza is a catholic church for which the piazza is named after, the church San Secondo. A short walk down the small street directly across from the piazza takes you to the Torre Troyana.

Asti_TorreTroyana_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Piazza Medici and the Troyan Clock Tower

The Piazza Medici Asti has the historical Torre Troyana o dell’Orologio. Originally started in the 12th century it was eventually bought by the Troya family and finished. Later the municipality of Asti purchased the tower and annexed it to the neighboring government building. As some point a clock was added, probably inside since I saw no evidence of one on the exterior of the building.

Asti_viaPellettaTowardsPiazzaSanSecundo_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — via Pelletta, looking toward the San Secondo church

If you are ever traveling in Italy and are tired of all the crowds of tourists, Asti should be one of your stops. Not that I like to encourage tourism, but if you are looking for a lazy day of strolling around unaffected by the hordes of international travelers this could be a good one day stop for you too. As can be seen by the photograph above the town’s side streets offer a relaxing substitute from some of the busier places around Italy.

Restaurant Le Teste di Rapa

Lunch in Asti offers many possibilities, from regional pizza and focaccia to enoteca and restaurant fusions offering great wines and food. After reading several menus on the street and walking around a bit, we decided on Le Teste di Rapa.

This restaurant offers no outside seating but is rather large inside and has both a downstairs and an upstairs. It also draws a very large local lunch crowd, so it is probably best to get there a bit early, between 12 to 12:30, especially if you have a train to catch or other time constraint. The locals seem to show up around one o’clock and for what we saw pack the place in pretty well.

Asti_BarberaDAsti_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Bertolino – a great Barbera d’Asti Superiore

The regional wines are the best to try and there is a wide selection. Though Asti is known for Asti Spumante, there are also other great varietals if you are not up for something bubbly. One of which are the Barberas. They go very well with rich food, in my case a dish of Italian meatballs and in Patti’s the daily special of eggplant parmesan. Both dishes were excellent and served with a fresh local white bread.

Asti_TesteDiRapa_Patti_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Patti outside the restaurant

The Palio di Asti

Once we left the restaurant we had another fifty minutes or so to spend and decided we had time to stroll over to see if there was anything interesting around Asti’s Palio (the less well-known cousin of the one in Siena.)

Asti_PiazzaCampoDelPalio_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten

The Palio here is of course a ringed street, that is it goes around in a complete loop, an essential requirement if you are having any kind of race. Though less well-known, Asti’s horse race also goes way back to the thirteen century. A main difference one can see between this venue and the one in Siena is the Asti version has a central piazza encircled by a walkway and a double row of trees. During most of the year this piazza apparently supports a small outside market. Nowhere as busy or large as the one in Turin, but offering the same kind of goods one expects to find at such a market with very reasonable prices as well.

Asti Train Station – Back to Turin

We finally made it back at the train station, taking the pedestrian tunnel this time, around twenty minutes to three.

AstiHauptBahnhof_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Asti train station and platforms

The trip between Asti and Turin P.N. (Porta Nuova) is just over thirty minutes with only one stop in between just outside of Turin. Otherwise the trip is totally second class at €5.25 one way per person, so do not expect to be able to purchase a first class ticket. But seats are comfortable and plentiful in both directions. The views outside the train are a bit better than traveling toward Milan and points East.

AstiToTurin_Returning_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Poppies and the bucolic Italian countryside

In any case a very relaxing and lazy day for an excursion to Asti and one destination worth the visit if you have the time, if only for the food and wine! ???? Ciao for now.

23 May, 201929 August, 2020

Turin – Sassi Tramway And Superga Basilica

Today, after contemplating the weather for tomorrow and whether or not it would be any better in the next few days, Patti and I decided to take a bus and the tramway to Basilica Superga. She astutely determined we had to take the 61 Bus from Vittorio Veneto over to Sassi. So around ten after eleven in the morning we made tracks for the local fermata.

TicketsForTwo_RackRailcar_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Two Tickets from Sassi-Superga to Basilica Superga

The Sassi-Superga Tramway

In Sassi we purchased tickets for the cogged railway (a.k.a. rack railroad or tramway) Superga Tramway to the Basilica Superga. The tramway runs every hour on the hour from Sassi to Superga and subsequently on the half-hour on return. Tickets are purchased at the base of the railway from a vending machine, and yes the machine has an english option and roundtrip tickets cost 6 euros.

CoggedTramway_RackRailcar_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Car D12 on the Sassi-Superga Rack railway

The ride is awesome and the gradient is pretty steep even though they use regular rail cars, unlike the ones that are built at an angle, like on funicular railcars we have been on.

GriffinPattiAndErick_Selfie_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — My attempt at taking a selfie together (not sure what they call that) and failing…

We enjoyed the ride up and the beautiful Spring weather, temperature in the mid 60’s and the cool mountain air, yummm.

GriffinErick_ILikeRetirement_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Erick enjoying his Campari Spritz after that difficult tramway ride

After disembarking the tramway it was time for a quick break right at the station. A quick salami and cheese panini and Campari Spritz to get re-energized. After the customary 15 minute wait after ordering at the bar we were able to eat. One has to remind oneself to slow down when traveling in Italy, time is not a constant on all parts of the Earth.

Basilica Superga

The basilica it situated on top of the Superga hill which is some 2200 feet above the city and therefore makes it a very prominent point of interest when looking to the north from the city.

Basilica_2_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — The Basilica’s Cupola as seen from the tramway and the start of our small hike to the Basilica

After a short ten minute walk up a fairly steep hill you climb a short set of stairs and then see the Basilica all of a sudden. On a fairly clear day its structure makes it stick out of the sky.

Basilica_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Basilica Superga

Unfortunately, this May the Basilica was closed for renovations, so we were not able to see the actual interior. Even without a close inspection of the structure one can easily see that no one can argue with this, since there are clearly cracks and other obvious things that need repair. That required us to contribute somehow, so we decided we must visit the cupola since it was still open, regardless of cost.

TicketsForTwo_Basilica_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Two tickets to the Basilica Superga’s Cupola, no baggage!

After the purchase of our tickets, we had to climb the 131 steps to the cupola and see the oversight of Turin.

GriffinErick_Basilica_2_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Erick climbing the first 100 steps, the final 30 would prove to have much less room

The oversight is pretty breathtaking, unfortunately in between rainy days, we were only able to get a semi-clear view of the mountains surrounding Turin.

OverlookFromBasilica_1_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Looking West Northwest from the Basilica over North Turin

The River Po can be seen above at the foot of the photograph. This is the river that cuts through Turin and has its origins in the Italian Alps.

OverlookFromBasilica_5_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Looking West Southwest from the Basilica over Turin; one can see the Mole to the right of the River Po on the left

One can actually get an almost 360 degree view of the surrounding area from the Basilica’s vantage point.

OverlookFromBasilica_2_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Looking to the East Northeast over the Basilica’s Palazzo

And finally a bit to the South.

OverlookFromBasilica_3_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Looking to the East Southeast over the roof of the Basilica

The rooftop fully surveyed we also enjoyed our cramped but slow descent down the staircase to our exit.

GriffinPatti_Basilica_1_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Patti on her way down

After our little climb we were still a bit hungry, the panini having been made with a tortilla and not the traditional focaccia left our stomachs a bit wanting; we therefore decided to visit the Artis Opera at Superga Basilica and eat something else.

GriffinPatti_Restaurant_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Patti at the restaurant, a very small room but comfortable

Though the room we had lunch in was very small with four tables in all; there were of course other rooms. It was very comfortable and the waiter was very attentive. I had a Insalata Mista and Patti had the Risotto Piemontese.

GriffinErick_ILikeRetirement_2_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Erick – the railroad is in our blood. Damn can’t escape it!

Our return trip and ride down was just as enjoyable as the ride up. Springtime in Piemonte I must say is just GREAT!

17 May, 201923 August, 2020

Milan – Tristan’s Last Vacation Stop

With Tristan departing for the States again on May 18th we all decided a short visit to Milan was in order.

After leaving Turin midday we arrived and checked in at the Just Hotel in Milan, very close to the train station so it would be easy on Saturday to get to the airport at Malpensa.

The Duomo

Early today we awoke, had a quick breakfast and headed to the Duomo.

The Rooftop

Patti purchased tickets for us to see all that can been seen at the Duomo, including an elevator express trip to the roof.

Though there was construction, even here there was plenty to see. It is amazing how much detail and sculpture the architects, builders and clergy put into parts of this dome that would not normally be seen by anyone.

Some forgotten cardinal or bishop hoisted by cherubs before a rarely used rooftop doorway

The architecture here, dictated by the physics of the day, is indeed impressive.

A forest of buttresses, piers and finials supporting Duomo’s massive inside

And another perspective.

The roof of the Duomo is for sure decorative. Probably in an attempt to add some counterweight to the expansive and beautiful interior.

The Duomo’s Interior

Duomo’s huge nave, looking toward the choir and apse

The windows are traditional, depicting scenes from the Bible as a pedagical device for those who could neither read nor write.

The amazing stained glass windows in Duomo’s apse

And…

The amazing stained glass windows in Duomo’s apse from a distance

Duomo’s Archeological Museum

There is also an archeological museum below the dome. It is an on-going dig, after supporting the massive cathedral above using modern technology, which can be seen in some of the photographs.

There were some impressive mosaic tile floors uncover from former churches that stood here once.

There are also the obligatory tombs of former bishops, priests or rich benefactors littering the grounds.

Milan surrounding the Duomo

There are a few things to experience and see around the Duomo, including the old, simple yet very functional street cars or trams. I never get tired of their usefulness and simplicity as a convenience; sad there are not more of them in the States as they bring life to a city.

Of course there are always the overly expensive and necessary stores to see in the Galleria; the original glass enclosed mall.

Having exhausted ourselves and in need of some refreshment, Tristan recommended visiting Starbuck’s very large roastery.

And finally a departing shot of the Milanese Underground and back to our hotel for a rest before dinner.

13 May, 201923 August, 2020

Turin – Mother’s Day at Valentino Park

A belated append for Mother’s Day, spent at Valentino Park. Patti and I decided yesterday on taking a nice leisurely stroll down to the medieval village, approximately a mile walk from our apartment.

The park itself is pretty expansive. It contains many paved paths with some roads going through it. Several boating club houses dot the river bank. The river Po borders it along its eastern side where on this day it was hosting a boating race regatta.

Medieval Village

The village was built in the 19th century as an authentic reproduction of an actual medieval village prior to its demise.

There are of course several shops and demonstration stations. There are some light tourist things for sale, including the ever popular Harry Potter paraphernalia, wands and such.

The buildings are characteristically very close together and include the customary trenches for waste water, which were thoughtfully dry.

The colonnades have the traditional colors of the builders and there are several paintings or remarks in the stones.

There is even an old printing press with demonstrations strategically placed behind a sample of the wall mosaics of that time. The only thing missing here are medieval people, their animals and probably all the smells that go along with them. ?

We ended our Mother’s Day walk by visiting the arboretum or Giardino Roccioso.

26 April, 201923 August, 2020

Heidelberg – Cloudy And Rainy

After a beautiful evening in Heidelberg, Zeus decided it was time to change the weather on us.

Hence, when we woke up that morning, we were greeted by a driving rain. Nothing like the downpours we would get in North Carolina, but a steady, bone-chilling, 48 degree shower on our vacation (we’re calling it that now, not to feel too much like retirees.) That’s not too bad, the last time I visited, it was in the 20s and snowing!

Hans Thoma Platz the stop closest to our Gasthof

After our hotel hostess provided breakfast it was off to the Altstadt and the Heidelberg Castle.

The Altstadt

The Altstadt of Heidelberg is now essentially an outside mall, commercialized with all the latest trendy stores from all over the world. Its nothing the way I remember it from years ago.

The beginning of the Hauptstrasse, Heidelberg

Some of the restaurants look the same but there are many new coffee shops, cafes and contemporary stores that fill the Hauptstrasse. It begins with the Kaufhaus right after exiting Bismarkplatz.

And after walking over a kilometer or so, ends with a church or two or three and the castle.

The Heidelberg Castle

The Heidelberger Schloss, or castle, sits atop the hill overlooking the city.

From the Hauptstrasse it is a formidable structure. There are two ways to visit the castle. One may walk the serpentine street that has a number of switch-backs.

Its raining and I’m cold, two tickets for the train please!

Or one can pay the €8.00 fee to ride the funicular train up the hill which is better choice when it’s raining out, plus admission to the castle is included.

The castle looking towards the pharmacy museum

The castle contains the usual large room for the storage of goods in case the town was attacked. It also houses a pharmacy museum and the largest wooden wine cask in the world, able to hold 58,000 gallons of wine.

The cask was used back in the day when the town produced its own wine label.

The smaller cask holding 300 liters of wine

Recently, an effort was started by a local vitner, Jörg Clauer, to restart the production of a Heidelberg labeled wine using the smaller cask that is shown in the ante chamber to the largest one. In it, they have stored 300 liters of Pinot Noir, reviving the wine making tradition here.

Heidelberg Overlook

From the castle one gets a great view of Heidelberg and its environs.

To the west and north looking toward Weststadt and Bergheim.

Then the old Heidelberg bridge and the last part of the Altstadt.

Heidelberg is still a beautiful little city, full of shopping and some interesting things to see. Though I was a bit disappointed in some of the old shops that are missing, I still think it is worth a look, especially for those who have not experienced its charm yet.

Weinwirtschaft Alt Hendesse

Our second and last night here we ate at the Alt Hendesse restaurant which ostensibly is a Weinwirtschaft.

It could be the establishment used to be part of some wine production at some point in their history. But there is no evidence of any label or production by them on their current wine list.

Patti and Ericka waiting for their Aubergine dishes

However, the food was very good and satisfying. I can only say that for the short time we were there between 8 and 9 PM they were turning people away constantly. They actually somehow made room for us shuffling some locals around to other tables.

4.7 Stars ?

25 April, 201923 August, 2020

Munich – A Bavarian Treat

Since I have been here several times, I asked my family what their first impressions of Munich were and their response was, they thought it to be a very livable city. Clean and vibrant with a very cosmopolitan population.

For one, the Isar runs directly through it adding to its luxuriant greenspaces and parks. So it is a very green city.

From Ludwigsbrücke am Gastieg (Rosenheimer Strasse)

The city itself, like many other European cities of this age, is comprised of an older inner (alt stadt) city, surrounded by the more contemporary version of itself. Our hotel, the Hilton München City on Rosenheimer Strasse, is situated in the perfect spot just outside the old city to enjoy the use of its mass transportation system (which is extensive by the way) and of course walking.

Walking over the Ludwigsbrücke from our hotel we meet the Isartor, the eastern gate to the old city. It no longer protects the old city from tourists and vagabonds, but once was a stalwart against unwanted invasions.

The Altstadt

The city core is comprised of numerous catholic churches, kneipes and bräuthauses, somehow proving the proverb that faith and beer are somehow strongly tied together. In fact everything in Munich is tied to beer.

The famous Glöckenspiel of the Munich Rathaus still works, but now its on a specific schedule. You must consult the working hours in the front of the Rathaus for specific play times.

Other points of interest include the famous Frauenkirche with its dual towers and cupolas. The church inside is nothing special, I myself preferred Saint Peter’s from what I could see. Taken for granted that we attended some of the Latin high mass on Easter morning at Saint Peter’s, which may have swayed my opinion a bit.

The cupolas and towers of the Frauenkirche

The cupolas of the Frauenkirche from a different perspective.

Tristan, Patti and Ericka in front of the Theatinerkirche am Odeonsplatz

The Deutsches Museum

We ventured around on foot a bit to discover the two famous hofbräuhauses and the Odeonsplatz. We also took the time to visit a few museums, including the Deutsches Museum, which we highly recommend, especially if you have any kind of mining background. The mining display is extensive.