This being our second day in London, it was time to meet up with our daughter Meagan and her husband Jason and do some real sight-seeing. Though just having flown in from New York City would slow us down a little bit.
London Bridge and the Borough Market
Our first order of business, after having some time to catch-up and then take “The Tube“, was to walk across the real London Bridge from Monument Station. Not to be confused with the Tower Bridge which we will discuss later.
London Bridge – Is NOT Falling Down
London Bridge – Public Works Building
The Borough Market is the quintessential small town market on steroids for a big city like London. It has a myriad of trendy shops and market kiosks, along with traditional farm products from all over Europe being represented with their quality meats and cheeses. Of course, I wanted to purchase some Alpine Cheese or Tyrolese Sausage, but time and fear of having it taken from my luggage on the trip back to Italy, prevented me from doing so.
Borough Market
Borough Market – The Produce Section
Borough Market – More Streets, More Fun
This walk took us in the general direction of the new “The Shard“, a triangular spire of a building reminiscent of the “One World Trade Center“. After having a very unremarkable lunch at the Horniman at Hays, we ascended The Shard for a view of the city.
The Shard
As one can imagine, on a good day like ours, you can see the entire city from this height.
London – From The Shard
London – From The Shard
London – From The Shard
London – From The Shard
London – From The Shard
London – From The Shard
From Inside The Shard – Observation Loung, 69th Floor
From Inside The Shard – Observation Loung, 69th Floor
From Inside The Shard – Observation Deck – Looking Up
From Inside The Shard – Observation Deck, 72th Floor
HMS Belfast
The HMS Belfast is a Town-class British 6 inch gun light cruiser of World War II vintage. Similar in age to the U.S.S. North Carolina in Wilmington, North Carolina, this ship has real class and some very nice lines. If time permits I hope to go back and have a peak inside.
H.M.S. Belfast – From The Shard
H.M.S. Belfast – From the Docks
The Tower Bridge and Tower of London
When London comes to mind for me, I think of the BBC and the river Thames flowing under the Tower Bridge as a preamble to TV shows I frequently watched on PBS.
The Tower Bridge – An Iconic London Landmark
Since I last saw it, years ago, the bridge appears to be woefully in need of a paint job, though nonetheless it is still graceful in appearance.
The Tower Bridge – Close Up
The Tower Bridge – Meagan and Jason
The Tower Bridge
The Tower Bridge – Upper Structure
The Tower Bridge
As some may already know, the Tower Bridge is most likely named after the Tower of London, that well-known ancient prison and current repository for the Crown Jewels.
The Tower of London
The Tower of London
The Tower of London
The Tower of London
The Tower of London
The Tower of London
The grounds to the Tower of London are rather large, and there is quite a lot to see here. There are several museums to visit, all of which appear to have been done in very good detail.
Tower of London – Changing of the Guard
One can also see a similar “Changing of the Guard” that you can witness at Buckingham Palace. Just behind the guards above, is the entrance to the Crown Jewels.
The Crown Jewels
As had been alluded to before, there are several other towers that one can visit, all of which have different histories. One of the better ones, and which also involves Sir Walter Raleigh, of North Carolina fame, is the Bloody Tower.
The Bloody Tower – The Museum
The Bloody Tower – Inside
The Bloody Tower – Outside
The Bloody Tower – Sir Walter Raleigh’s Study
The Bloody Tower – The Museum
The Bloody Tower – Sir Walter Raleigh’s Study
From 1603 until 1616, Sir Walter Raleigh was held prisoner here. Though he was afforded amenities not many other prisoners were given, including gardening to make herbal remedies and other concoctions, his internment still must have been very unpleasant.
Where to start, especially when visiting the most densely populated place on Earth? I guess for us, that would be the SNCF train station, which is about a 30 minute ride from Nice. In Monaco,it drops you off in a tunnel, like other places we enjoyed in Cinque Terre, Italy. So like there, we had to walk a long tunnel and climb some stairs to finally emerge and enjoy our destination.
Monaco Harbor
Once you start walking, you can tell that space here is at a premium. Even the sidewalks are not as generously proportioned as other places that we have visited.
Within ten minutes or so, we found ourselves walking along the Avenue de la Quarantaine. Viewing the port, which when compared with photographs of the 1970s, was crammed with watercraft of all sizes.
Theatre du Fort Antoine
Along The Digue de L’Avant Port
Along The Digue de L’Avant Port
Port from The Digue de L’Avant Port
On the point where you need to take a right and walk along the coast, is a theatre called the Theatre du Fort Antoine. Though very nice, with an almost modern appeal, it is not considered a cultural spot for the city. Proceeding along the Digue de L’Avant Port, you walk directly toward the institute.
Also known as the Oceanographic Institute of Monaco;Â a rather impressive building from the sea. The former study and laboratory for Jacques-Ives Cousteau and his adventures, is itself also responsible for introducing some of the invasive species now threatening the Mediterranean Sea — via the unconscionable practice of flushing unwanted biological organisms down the toilet or drain, as practiced in other developed countries as well.
Oceanographic Institute of Monaco – Internal Entrance from Parking Garage
Oceanographic Institute of Monaco – Main Entrance
The Institute is well fitted to handle a large number of visitors with underground parking, that accommodates large buses and escalators to assist all, up to the ticket lobby. One must first pass multiple shops and other facilities, before entering the institute to enjoy the museum and/or aquarium.
Tickets For Two
The Museum
It is divided into two equally impressive multi-level rooms which contain a very large selection of specimens, stories and artifacts from the natural world, encompassing the globe.
The Main Hall
One Entrance To The Museum
A Kayak In The Main Hall
Shadowbox Displays
Shadowbox Display – Showing The Calypso
The large main hall has a very large wall display meant to be offered as a shadowbox of significant developments in oceanography, which happily includes the Calypso.
With specific emphasis on the oceans and their habitats, the collection also includes some archeological specimens in the form of fossils and replication of prehistoric animals. These are used as a pedagogical device and comparison to present day species which are on display here.
Fish from the Deep Oceans
One can find one of two displays on deep-sea creatures as well, which are interesting to see, even if it is in a petrified state.
There is also a section detailing the scientific devices and methods used in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s.
One Of Cousteau’s Submarines
Outside, there is apparently the first submarine Cousteau used early in his career.
It took us a little over an hour to complete the museum, which we did before seeing the aquarium.
The Aquarium
I have been to many aquariums, but I must say this one ranks up at the top five for sure. Not only for the breath and depth of species they have, but also the specimens and facilities are very well-kept. All the animals appear quite normal in behavior and have more than sufficient space to enjoy what surroundings they have been given.Â
Hallway to Aquarium
Main Tank – Sharks and other Fishes
Main Tank
Main Tank
Main Tank
Main Tank – Smaller Fish and Damselfish
Main Tank – Smaller Fish and Damselfish
There are a few large main tanks which host a myriad of species and most of the large predators, including sharks.
The Nautilus Tank
The rare species that they do have, include the Cuttlefishand the Nautilis. With the Cuttlefish, you definitely get the feeling that this animal is not only looking back at you, but that there is also some analysis going on as well — definitely an intelligent species.
My favorites are unfortunately the ones I used to have in fish tanks. The Emperor Angelfish, Hippo Tang and Copperbanded Butterfly fish stand out to me to be some of the most interesting and beautiful specimens.
But, the Damselfish are also great to view, with their luminescent blue and their proclivity for darting back and forth.
Even with the current onslaught against the Amazon, there are also Piranha here too. One can only wonder when this species will be threatened too, if not already.
Seahorse are one of the more popular attractions, most likely because they are so different from all of the normal or bony fishes. But then again, what is a normal fish?
Seahorses
The Parrotfish – He Kept Diving To Eat Gravel
Patti and Ericka – Enjoying the Aquarium
The Seahorse and Nautilus Displays at the Aquarium
The Turtle Display
The Turtle Display
Eating In Monaco
After our long visit at the institute, it was time to get something to eat. Not but a five-minute walk away, we found Restaurant L’Aurora.
Restaurant L’Aurore – Fine Food and Good Service
This is another restaurant that will remind those who travel along the coast of France and Italy of Niçose style. The menu offers a fusion of French and Italian dishes. It is sometimes unclear in the Côte d’Azur, if you are eating French or Italian; either will claim the dishes and cuisine are theirs! However, this is a good restaurant. The food was very good and the staff very accommodating. I had the blue plate special, just one selection of which there were many.
L’Aurora – Staff and Inside
Daily Special – Ravioli – Ummm-Umm-Good!
Monte Carlo
Not far from the train station, perhaps a 20 minute walk away, is Monte Carlo. Having come this far we pushed forward up the hill and up to Monte Carlo to see what, if anything, it was all about.
Monte Carlo
Monte Carlo – Litfaßsäule
Our initial impression was no one lives here, all we saw were tourists. If one took the tourists away, then no one would be walking around. Obviously, just a playground for the filthy rich. Even the sidewalks are tiled and run perfectly to adjoin all the buildings where they meet. I saw no homeless people.
Patti and Ericka – Walking in Monte Carlo
Almost every store and door has a doorman; there are security personnel walking around everywhere. You get the distinct impression that whether you live here or not, you are suspected at all times.
Casino de Monte Carlo
The Casino de Monte Carlo is perhaps the only architecturally significant building in this area. Though a bit ostentatious, it has a certain appeal, even for those not expecting it.
Not much to see from the outside and there is a considerable piazza outside, probably doubling as a parking lot for important occasions. Not interested in the inside, no relation of ours, we took our photographs and left for other sites.
Apotheosa Monaca
Conclusion
Though I found the city-state interesting, I have no wish to live there; it appears devoid of real life.
Freiheit liebe ich und die Luft über frischer Erde; lieber noch will ich auf Ochsenhäuten schlafen, als auf ihren Würden und Achtbarkeiten.
Ich bin zu heiss und verbrannt von eigenen Gedanken: oft will es mir den Athem nehmen. Da muss ich in’s Freie und weg aus allen verstaubten Stuben.
The old city is some 15 to 20 minute walk along the Avenue de le Liberation, Avenue Paul Arène and Boulevard d’Aguillon.
Boulevard d’Aguillon
Patti Walking The Boulevard d’Aguillon
Antibe – Start of the Boulevard d’Aguillon
Foutain at the Gate of Rue Aubernon
Antibes is not as impressive as some of the other towns and cities you will find along this famous coast, but we found that it has its own kind of charm.
Antibes – Old City Charm
Antibes – Old City Charm
It has many narrow side streets filled with shops and a very large plaza, Place Nationale, where vendors of all kinds sell different things. While we were there, a market similar to one we would call a flea market in the States, was in full swing. Everything from furniture to estate items were offered for sale.
Antibes – Place Nationale
The old city is also a great place to just wander along street to street. Turning a corner you never know what you may find. In some small streets there are still old-style electric wires on glass insulators, a throw-back no doubt of the 1950’s or 60’s.
The Sea from the Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse
Pointe Bacon from Antibes
Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse and the Colonne a la Mer
Beach as Viewed from the Ramparts
Antibes – Alleys behind Ramparts
Below the Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse
Pointe Bacon as Viewed from Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse
Antibes – Alleys behind Ramparts
The Ramparts from the Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse
Antibes – Ericka and Patti walking the Streets
Beach from the Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse
Antibes – Houses
Additional areas we wander through are shown above, enjoy.
Where To Eat
As with most tourist spots, there are plenty of places to eat and there are some tourists here; no doubt drawn here for the same reasons we went, Picasso.
On the tip of the main plaza, Place Nationale, just around the corner on Rue Sade, is Le Chaudron. After a quick survey of what was available outside, we choose it because of its menu and decor. It turned out to be a cozy little place with good food.
All in all with the addition of the museum stop we consider Antibes a very nice place to visit. It one of the remaining if not the last active working port on this coast so you will also see plenty of maritime shops and stores as well as those for tourists.
The building was purchase in 1925 by the city of Antibes to become what was known then as the Grimaldi Museum. Picasso actually spent time here in 1946 and used it as a workshop. He subsequently made a very generous donation to the museum, some of which were even created there.
Pablo Picasso – circa 1946
The exhibit is impressive and contains many of his works from his 1946 period. There is probably something here for every taste but the main themes nudes and shellfish (apparently inspired by the meals he partook while there).
Pablo Picasso – circa 1946
There are also several photographs of the artist along with text and one can also purchase an audio guide for the entire collection.
Note: Aside from the sculptor if there is any interest at all in me providing captions for the works below, then please send me a review with your request. I will also remove this comment after I have done so. Enjoy!
Sitting less than two miles from Nice is Villefranche-sur-Mer, a mere walk away. Since this little port town is also part of the Côte d’Azur SNCF train system, we decided to do just that, one sunny day. We took a walk over the Mont Boron and took the train back.
Walking From Nice
If you are lucky enough to visit this quaint little town on the sea while no cruise ship is in the bay, then you would be as lucky as we were the day we decided to walk there from Nice. A frequent stop of cruise ships Villefranche-sur-Mer is the most used cruise ship docking port in France. Luckily we were spared both the site and the influx of tourists that accompanies such an ocurrence.
Mont Boron – Typical Vegetation
Mont Boron – View of Cape Ferrat
Mont Boron – French Parks Do Not Use Poisons
Mont Boron – Villefranche-sur-Mer
Mont Boron – The Bay of Villefranche-sur-Mer
Mont Boron – The Way Up
Mont Boron – Official Gate To The Park
From the old city of Nice, we ascended Mont Boron, which I must say is much higher on the side of Fort du Mont Alban than we experienced on Castle Hill, Mont Boron’s smaller cousin. However, there are very good paths that switchbacks all the way up to help you with the ascent.
Fort du Mont Alban
The fort from the outside appears to be a four-sided bastion fort. Made entirely of stone, it stands impressively on top of the mountain. Unfortunately, entrance cannot be gained and it appears to be closed. Â There are no indications that it has ever been opened to the public.
Nice – Fort du Mont Alban
Nice – The Front of Fort du Mont Alban
With the exception of walking up the front stairs to the main door, there appear to be no other entrances on the other sides.
Fort du Mont Alban – Main Gate
Fort du Mont Alban – North Side
Fort du Mont Alban – Ericka from Front Gate
Fort du Mont Alban – West Side
After getting our fill of the view from this vantage point, our walk to Villefranche-sur-Mer continued by finding the path to the town about a hundred meters to the left, leaving the fort. On your map, this path may be called the Chemin du Fort du Mont Alban.
Patti Descending the Chemin du Fort du Mont Alban
The path starts off easily without much slope, but it progressively gets steeper and less developed the further down you go, until you finally hit the town itself. So, care should be taken.
The Town On The Sea
The Bay of Villefranche-sur-Mer from Mayssa Beach Restaurant
From the path you will exit via a walkway to the Avenue du Fort. Since we were thirsty and starting to get hungry, we followed our noses down and finally found the Avenue du Marechal Foch. We found a cafe there for a quick drink. Â Then it was off to find a restaurant. Ericka found one overlooking the water called Mayssa Beach. A good pick, great service, excellent view and good food at a reasonable price.
Mayssa Beach – Ericka and Patti
Mayssa Beach – Heirloom Tomato Caprese
Mayssa Beach – Rigatoni Special
After haven eaten and relaxed a bit, we decided to walk the Quai de l’Amiral Courbet. The town is actually quite small and has very narrow streets. Enjoy the following photographs from this little gem on the coast.
The tiny medieval town of Èze-Village sits like a barnacle some fourteen hundred feet above the sea. From this perch you can see miles of coastline. The other part of the commune Èze-sur-Mer sits directly below it, very close to the sea. Historically, it is very old, going way back before Roman times. As I write this, I must confess some incredulity as why anyone would build something back then so high up and away from the sea. The only answer I can come up with is for protection from what I can only conjecture.
Getting There From Nice
To get to Èze-Village (tourism) from Niceyou have several public commuting options, in order of difficulty. You can take the bus directly there. The route was 82 at the time of this writing, but this may change, so check the bus schedule. The easiest was to do this is at the Information Center at the Nice Train Station. Keep in mind that buses depart from different places in the city, so you will either have to walk or make other arrangements, bus or tram perhaps, to get there. If a direct bus route is not to your liking you can also take the SNCF train. These run along the coast and depart from Nice regularly and stop at Èze-sur-Mer. You will then have to take the bus to Èze-Village atop the hill, or, hike up the hill which will take about an hour.
Èze-Village – From the Bus Stop
For those who experience motion sickness take care, as any bus ride you take will require the necessary sedatives or medications. The roads are very windy and have numerous switchbacks!
The Nietzsche Footpath – Length Over 2km
For those who cannot see their own toes and cannot touch them without bending their knees, I would not consider trying to hike up the mountain. It is somewhat treacherous and steep. We used it to return and on the way down we saw an older couple who were going down and having trouble (read shortness of breath, etc). The Nietzsche Footpath is impressive, it is not a real footpath but more like a hiking trail and has probably taken its share of victims over the years. Be smart and do NOT ignore the sign at the start.
Road Up To Èze-Village – The Start
Entering Èze-Village
Èze-Village
Èze-Village
Not knowing these options ahead of time, we decided to take the bus directly from Nice. Before it even arrived, there was quite a group of people waiting at the stop. If you do have motion sickness issues you may want to wait for a bus that is not packed or ask someone on the bus once you are on, if you may have a window seat. This is especially true if your bus driver, like ours, must have dreams of driving Formula One race cars! If your bus is as crowded as ours was, you may not be able to look out. So again, be prepared, you’ve been warned!
The Botanical Garden
Èze-Village – Overview from Botanical Garden
At the summit of this beautiful little town, sits a Botanical Garden. Called Èze Botanical Garden it displays vegetation that typically grows along the Mediterranean coast. The entry fee for us was 5€ and you pay right there before you go in. It’s probably money well spent since the views are amazing and they obviously use the money to keep the garden up, which I must say is in fantastic condition.
Patti and Erick – Botanical Garden
Our Daughter Ericka – Botanical Garden
There are also several places in the garden to take photographs.
Devil’s Bridge Plaque – Botanical Garden
Devil’s Bridge – Botanical Garden
The Botanical Garden also has an excellent view of the Devil’s Bridge (I know every town and country seems to have this bridge, but it’s pretty cool to see anyway).
The Perfumeries
Galimard Perfumery – Visitor Center Display
Galimard Perfumery – Visitor Center Display
Galimard Perfumery – Visitor Center Display
Galimard Perfumery – Cologne/Perfume Mixing Station
In Èze-Village there are several Perfumeries where one can make an appointment to actually spend time with a certified Perfumologist and mix their own fragrance. The two major ones that sit next to one another, are Galimard and Fragonard. We chose Galimard, for whatever reason and found the whole process quite intriguing, though completely out of my league (I just do not have the nose for it). The cost at 80€ each can be considered high but includes you walking away with your own scent. Which, if you consider would be in the range of 50€ to 60€, probably is not a bad deal for expert help.
Getting Back To Nice
Tagliatelle al Ragu, Salad and Wine – YUM!
After all of this, it was time for lunch. We found a nice little place right at the beginning of the village called “Mets Vins Chics“. They serve all kinds of lunch fare and wine at reasonable prices. If you do come to this area, you may notice how closely related the food in this area is to the neighboring Italian cities and towns. With the historical fluidity of borders and commerce, it should not be a surprise and it sure tastes good!
Once finished with our meal, our daughter Ericka wanted to check out Fragonard as well. They have somewhat of a larger showroom but unfortunately no longer mixed nor sold the fragrance she was interested in. So we left there, kind of disappointed.
The Nietzsche Footpath – Treacherous, like his Philosophy
It was time to head back and I decided to take the Nietzsche Footpath and the SNCF train back to Nice. The path is very steep and one must take care to make sure you do not slip and fall. It is also very long and will take you approximately 40 to 45 minutes just to descend. Then, there is another 5 minutes or so to walk to the train station along the road where the path exits.
Parc Phoenix – Views
The Nietzsche Footpath – Views
Parc Phoenix – Views
Views From The Village – Garden Below
The Nietzsche Footpath – Starts Out Innocent Enough
Parc Phoenix – Views
Views From The Village – Garden Below
The Nietzsche Footpath – Views
The Nietzsche Footpath – View
Views From The Village
The Nietzsche Footpath – Views
The Nietzsche Footpath – Ericka Was Not Having Fun
Parc Phoenix – Views
Parc Phoenix – Views
Parc Phoenix – Views
Parc Phoenix – Map
Views From The Village
Èze-Village is a very nice, interesting place to visit. There is not much there save the view and the garden, so I would suggest bundling it with something else, like the Perfumery, to make it worth the time and expense.
Nice and the Côte d’Azur conjure up thoughts of beautiful weather, money (rich people) and vacation. It is a destination that many people have on their bucket-list of things to do; if not for the casinos, then at least for the sun and crystal clear light-blue sea. It was after some trepidation on my part and a pause in our other travels, that we decided to go to Nice for another short holiday.
Nice – Front of Main Train Station
Nice – Inside Main Train Station
Whenever possible, we travel via train since it is more cost-effective and has one of the better, if not the best, Eco-friendly footprints. The trip took us surprisingly just over five hours from Turin, most likely due to a mixture of train schedules and the routes involved. However, one of the advantages of being retired is time is the one commodity you have in abundance.
Nice Airport – Looking at Welcome Sign
Nice Airport – Arrivals
Nice Airport – Ericka Waiting To Board Tram
Since this was not actually a last-minute decision, we were still able to use a modest amount of planning and coordinated the trip with our daughter Ericka, who joined us the following day. She flew in and using the Côte d’Azur (I must say) fabulous metro/tram system which now links up with both terminals at the airport, we were able to meet her at Terminal 1.
Our choice of Nice was due to many factors. First the train station is large and one can travel to many different places taking advantage of both regional and special coastal trains. It also happened to be in the center of the Côte d’Azur, the famous vacation coast which attracts visitors and tourists from both France, Europe and beyond. Nice has been expanding their metro and transportation system and it seems to be paying off; it did for us. If you are staying for any amount of time you can buy a 10-trip (not day) transportation pass for 10€ (that’s a 30 percent discount or 4 free trips). Though we did not use them all, we used enough to do better than break even.  We then handed them to someone at the hotel, so they could use the rest.
Our Hotel
We stayed at the Hotel Belle Meunière, a short two-minute walk from the main train station and our domicile for our travels. Though our room was not much to look at per se, one has to understand the hotel is actually under renovations. The outside of the hotel is very well-kept and seems to be an old historical landmark of some kind, since they have obviously tried to keep it sound. The inside however, is somewhat confused but manageable.  It is obviously a converted manor house. It is therefore, not really a hotel but more of a hotel/pension fusion, if there is such a thing.
Hotel Belle Meuniere РA Ni̤ois Experience
We found the price and location with respect to the train station very acceptable and there are also very good Niçoisrestaurants nearby. However, the location also worked somewhat against it as well, since areas around train stations tend to be a bit dirty. This is also true of the area around this hotel.  If you are really into the beach, you might prefer something closer to the shore, though they will be more expensive. Though I would not give it any Michelin stars, it was manageable and the staff go out of their way to make you comfortable.
Another must see is the overlook of the city from the Colline du Château or Castle Hill. It is a modest walk from the old city up the hill to the East, before you are able to enjoy the vista.
Ericka and Patti – Nice Overlook
Erick – Nice Overlook
There are several points along the way up to stop and enjoy the view of Nice.
Patti and Ericka – Enjoying The Waterfall After The Climb Up The Hill
There are also other things to see on Castle Hill, including a waterfall and an overlook of Villefranche-sur-Mer, the next town over, though somewhat obscured by trees on the walk down.
Strada Comunale Santa Margherita – Villa dell Regina Entrance
Strada Comunale Santa Margherita – Villa dell Regina Gate
Strada Comunale Santa Margherita – Villa dell Regina
Strada Comunale Santa Margherita – A long but gentle walk
Borgo Po – Turin does NOT use chemicals to fight Weeds
Villa della Regina – Pond
Villa della Regina – Reflecting Pond and Foutain
Villa della Regina – Tickets for Two
Wines produced at the Villa
Corso Fiume – Villa Crimea
Corso Fiume – After Crossing the Umberto I Bridge – Residential Neighborhood
More History and Tourism
In 1865 the Villa became a boarding school for girls until World War II, when it was later bombed and received extensive damage. Finally in 1994 the Tourism ministry or Turin finally obtained it and started restoring the structure which had badly fallen into disrepair. It was finally opened in 2006 to the public for tourism, but even now shows signs of decline with the difficulties of the Italian economy.
Examples of Landscaping Issues and Disrepair at the Villa
The Villa Inside
After purchasing a ticket which costs €5/person (unless you were lucky enough to enter on a free day, check the Turin website for dates), the Villa’s main hall is a real wonder and in very good condition.
Villa dell Regina – Main Hall Right – Apollo and Daphne
Villa dell Regina – Main Hall Left – Adoni’s Death
Villa dell Regina – Main Hall Windows toward Turin
Villa dell Regina – Hallway to King’s Rooms
The King’s Rooms
The visitor next sees the rooms the King would have when he was at the Villa. All of the floors in the Villa are parquet, with few exceptions.
King’s Entertainment Room – del Trucco
King’s Entertainment Room – del Trucco
King’s Entertainment Room – del Trucco
King’s Private Room – Chinese Style
King’s Private Room – Chinese Style
King’s Private Room – Chinese Style
King’s Private Room – Chinese Style
King’s Private Room – Chinese Style
King’s Private Room – Chinese Style
King’s Private Room – Chinese Style
King’s Private Room – Chinese Style
King’s Private Room – West Lobby
King’s Private Room – West Lobby
King’s Private Room – Typical Old Door
There is a short hallway with another beautiful ceiling before entering the Queen’s rooms.
Villa dell Regina – Hallway to Queen’s Rooms
Villa dell Regina – Main Hall
The Queen’s Rooms
The rooms that consist of those for the queen are unfortunately not in as good a condition as those of the King’s. This is most likely due to the extent of the damage from the bombing during the war to be more concentrated in this area.
The Queen’s Rooms – West Lobby
The Queen’s Rooms – West Lobby
The Queen’s Rooms – The 3 Tables in Scagliola
The Queen’s Rooms – The 3 Tables in Scagliola
The Queen’s Rooms – The 3 Tables in Scagliola
The Queen’s Rooms – West Bedroom
The Queen’s Rooms – West Bedroom
Five Appliques called Le Ventole – Giuseppe Maria Bonsanigo
The Queen’s Rooms – Dressing Room
The Queen’s Rooms – East Lobby
The Queen’s Rooms – East Lobby – Ceiling Painting Lost by Fire
The Queen’s Rooms – East Lobby
The Queen’s Rooms – East Room – delle Ventaglyne
The Queen’s Rooms – East Room – delle Ventaglyne
The Queen’s Rooms – East Room – delle Ventaglyne
Once you have finished the Queen’s rooms you find yourself again back at the Main Hall and your way out to the grounds, which at one point in their lifetime must have been beautiful, all the hallmarks are there.
The Grounds
Though poorly kept and in some cases falling still further into disrepair and eventual collapse, they are nonetheless impressive. The fountains though still functioning stand their vigil over empty pools of water that once might have kept chinese carp or goldfish but now just harbor algae.
Villa della Regina – Roman Style Garden with Statues and Fountain
Finally, more photographs of the grounds and surrounding area.
Recently while taking a break from planning our next big set of travels for September and October, we decided to visit another set of museums in Turin which one could call unusual if not down right odd. I would say odd because when one thinks of a museum, at least the first one below would not immediately pop into one’s mind.
Tickets for Two – Museum 1
Tickets for Two – Museum 2
Tickets for Two – Museum 3
The cost for each of the two museums above was €5 each. However, one can purchase a €10 entrance pass which includes the first two museums as well as the Museum of Fruit.
Museum of Criminal Anthropology
This Museum of Criminal Anthropology is located on the same block as the Museum of Human Anatomy. At via Pietro Giuria, it is housed in a somewhat unassuming building and if you were not actually looking for it you might pass by it altogether.
Entrance to the Museum of Criminal Anthropology
The building inside, like so many in Turin, has a grand architectural style inside and was probably under the influence of one of the many great architects that have worked in this city.
The Beautifully Adorned Ceiling before the Entrance to the Museum
So as to not bore you with the benefactor’s history of this museum, you may visit the website to learn more if you wish, let’s just say that once inside you get a very good idea of just how backward science and medicine were in those days. The main displays in this museum are those of skulls and artifacts from criminal patients who were often labeled crazy or insane. Many of the skulls were labeled with the crimes that each of the individuals committed, all of course written in Latin.
Cases Housing Patient Skulls
The adjacent side of the floor contained numerous examples of the implements used in many of the crimes that were committed.
Knives and other Handmade and often Strange Implements used by the Patients
If I were to sum up my thoughts of this very interesting museum it would be one of great curiosity. Not only for the obviously poor people who were involved and in some cases mistreated and misdiagnosed by their treating physicians, but for the times in which they lived. Many of which would have benefited from our medical knowledge of today, perhaps to the point of never turning to crime. As for the doctors and scientists involved it must have been a time of great discovery, however misguided some of them employed their influence and knowledge.
It took us a little over an hour to visit the entire museum and we would recommend it, though we would consider it a bit on the morbid side.
The Museum of Human Anatomy
On via Corso Massimo d’Azeglio and the adjacent street and same block as the previous museum one can visit the Museum of Human Anatomy. This is another museum where some may not be appropriate, especially if they are uncomfortable with anatomy, blood, brains or guts. So plan appropriately.
Museum of Human Anatomy
It can however be used as it had been in the past, as a very good pedagogical device for learning more about oneself and what composes the human organism. Having been used in the past as part of the medical university system in Turin it still offers valuable insights to visitors.
Internal Entrance to the Museum
This museum is also housed on a single floor. As you begin your tour you first learn of basic anatomy and view examples human and other animal skeletons.
The Introductory Case showing Human and Animal Skeletons
Once you move through the internal entrance door, after purchasing your tickets, you will see examples of human dwarf- and gigantism. This is followed by displays of the anatomical differences between the human sexes. After that, each successive colonnade displays in both wax and actual human form (samples that have been preserved in solution) specific areas of the body.
Curios filled with Human Anatomical Samples
Finally in the back of the museum one will find an in-depth study of the human nervous system, brains and actual examples of how individual nerves are routed and connected in the body.
A Large Figure showing how very important Anatomical Features are related
I would greatly encourage anyone with children to visit the museum. Though not for everyone, it can be used as a great teaching aid and perhaps put some young mind on the path of becoming a doctor of medicine or forensics. It’s also great just to learn how the scientific community in the late 18 and early 19 centuries learned about and taught anatomy.
Museum of the Risorgimento – The Apartment
Our next visit was actually triggered by an offer on Turin’s official website of free admission for a tour of the apartment associate with the Museum of the Risorgimento. The Risorgimento of course was the political and social movement that consolidated different states of Italy into a single state, or what became the Kingdom of Italy in the 19th century. It began in 1815 in Vienna and was completed in Rome after it became the capital Italy in 1871.
The Museum of the Risorgimento
Entrance to the Museum
Our Tour Group
The Facade of the Apartment
The  part that we actually saw is not open often and is not actually part of the museum proper, but rather an adjunct to it. Special tickets are provided at a specific time during the day, so you must watch the website for when these are available.
Cities and Towns where Baroque Architect Guarino Guarini had influence
The apartment and the museum itself owe their legacy to Guarino Guarini, an influential architect or the baroque style of his day. He is responsible for many important architectural works of this style, none more so than the examples he left in Turin. However, he is also responsible for many other important works in a wide area that covers both Italy and France, as shown above.
The Apartment and Rooms of Emanuele Filiberto di Carignano – Bed Detail
The Apartment and Rooms of Emanuele Filiberto di Carignano – Chandelier
The Apartment and Rooms of Emanuele Filiberto di Carignano – Bed
The Apartment and Rooms of Emanuele Filiberto di Carignano – Wall Portrait
The Apartment and Rooms of Emanuele Filiberto di Carignano – Baroque Details
The Apartment and Rooms of Emanuele Filiberto di Carignano – Baroque Mirror Walls
The Apartment and Rooms of Emanuele Filiberto di Carignano – Baroque Ceiling Fresco Bedroom
The Apartment and Rooms of Emanuele Filiberto di Carignano – Baroque Ceiling
The Apartment and Rooms of Emanuele Filiberto di Carignano – Floor and Hallway/Galley Way
Emanuele’s rooms as styled after the Baroque influences of Guarini are impressive. Though one can say the gold leaf is a bit overdone the parquet flooring is amazing, even though it is showing its age.
Spiral Staircase Leading to Basement
The Oval Shape of the Spiral Staircase as seen from below
The Cellar
Typical Ovens and Dumbwaiter as Designed by Guarini
Though our self-guided tour took all of thirty to forty minutes it was nonetheless well worth the time, since absolutely no other expense was incurred (thank you Turin!) for us by doing so. If you are also fortunate enough to have the opportunity to visit these impressive rooms and architecturally significant buildings, we suggest you do so. We found them very compelling.
If one were to take Trenitalia from Turin Porta Nuova west to its logical end, one would find Susa, a quiet little alpine town built by the Gauls sometime before the Roman Empire. Excited? You should be, we were and were not disappointed.
Susa Station
We entered the town via the train station, an hour’s ride from our main train station in Turin. As we traveled down the Susa Valley, somewhere starting around Avigliana, we slowly became surrounded by hills, then mountains.
Train route down the Susa Valley
Upon reaching Susa, we were encircled by Graian Alps. , especially Rocciamelone which sits just due north of the town.
Overlooking the Park of Augusto, with Rocciamelone towering overhead
We had arrived around eleven o’clock in the morning, ready for some serious tourist trekking of the town and a peak at the food festival they were having this weekend.
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The food festival, just after opening
and before the massive food fight (tongue in cheek)
Gauls and Romans
The town, like many very old towns in Italy, enjoys a rich history dating back before and including the Roman Empire. When the Roman Empire ascended into existence after the Roman Republic, Susa became a voluntary part of it in the 1st century BC.
Ceasar Augustus Arch, Susa, 8 BC
The arch was positioned along the Via Cozia (today known as Via delle Gallie), the road that led to Gaul. Its age and architecture are impressive, it is also amazing that it has stood in such good shape for over two thousand years!
Roman Aqueduct Terme Graziane and Gates
The aqueduct above is impressive itself and was built to feed water to baths somewhere, however it actually disguises a dirty little Gaul secret. The wall that connects to it on the left masks a set of holes carved into the rocks that were supposedly used to collect blood from Gaul sacrifices. Nice right? Those Gauls knew how to party.
Patti on the grounds of the Civic Museum for Roman History
Susa Around Town
If you are not so inclined to delve deeply into the Roman history of the area, it is easy enough just to enjoy the town itself.
The Dora Riparia makes its trek through Susa carrying its aquamarine glacial waters. It eventually is joined by other tributaries, especially the Cenischia, before it reaches Turin and joins the river Po.
Susa Torre, Comune di Susa
The Torre in Susa, a building obviously repurposed over the years.
Piazza della Torre, Susa
Pizzeria Ristorante Italia
Finally after a few hours enjoying the absolutely gorgeous weather and amazing scenery it was time for something to eat. We decided the street food we saw was not going to slake our thirst nor satiate us, so we ventured away from the center of town, which we also found much too noisy (they do allow cars to flow through it). From the Piazza Trento we walked down the via Francesco Rolando and found an obvious favorite, Pizzeria Ristorante Italia.
Inside Pizzeria Ristorante Italia
The restaurant was actually quite busy; the photograph above being taken before the mass of locals entered in small groups to eat their lunch. Many of which ordered the blue plate and much to our chagrin got served before ourselves. Oh well, it wasn’t like we were in a hurry, being retired is so nice…
Patti’s Bruschetta
and Papadelle Al Ragú
Susa A Great One Day Adventure
We had a marvelous time in Susa and want to come back in the Fall and perhaps Winter to enjoy the change of season and their Christmas market respectively. So we encourage you, if you are ever in the vicinity of Turin, do not dismiss Susa as a possible day trip. Check their calendar first, just in case they have something special going on. Even if they don’t, a one day trip just for the history will be worth it. Until then, here are some extra photographs of Susa for your enjoyment.
Piazza 4th of November, Susa
Patti going toward San Giusto Cathedral
Another overlook of Park Augustu
via Martin Della Liberta
Looking Southeast towards the Nature Reserve
Looking South towards the Nature Reserve
Dora Riparia looking towards France
Susa
Susa
The 33rd Historical Tournament celebration party display
Dora Riparia looking East toward Turin
Dora Riparia and its blue waters
Susa
Susa
Narrow Alleys in Susa
Flowers adorning a wall in Susa
Fresco adorning the outside entry to the Cathedral
Image from doorway to the Museum looking towards the Nature Reserve and mountains
A short trip by train just outside and to the west of Turin lies Avigliana, a medieval town some would call a small city. Â However, regardless of its size, it is charming nonetheless.
Turin Porta Nouva to Avigliana via TrenitaliaAvigliana Train Station
We arrived on a picture perfect day with only a few clouds hovering over the mountains to the North and West and no threat of rain whatsoever in sight.
Abbey Sacra di San Michele
As soon as we left the train station we could see the Abbey Sacra di San Michele perched on the Monte Pirchiriano to the West. From Avigliana this is also an easy sight to visit if you are traveling by car. However, even if you are traveling by train and on foot it is also possible if you have the time. It lies some ten kilometers from town and has history that dates back to the tenth century. Our trip centered more on the historic part of town and visiting the lakes, which promised to be magnificent.
via Porta Ferrata, Avigliana
Porta Ferrata, Avigliana
Church Santa Croce
Patti and the overlook from Santa Croce
Our ascent to the town was along a more or less direct route from the train station. Instead of following the signs near the train station, we walked via San Giuseppe to via Porta Ferrata.  Once you reach the fork in the road take the right branch which will bring you to the Church of Santa Croce and an uncommon overlook of the Susa Valley. Coming back down and continuing a bit further we came across the Porta Ferrata, an old medieval gate that dates back to the 13th century.
Panoramic view from the overlook at the Church of Santa Croce
We had now spent a little over an hour walking through the narrow streets and alleys, exploring those little areas that afforded us access. From the spine of the hill on which the town sits, one can get some great photographs of the mountains, including historic landmarks.
From via Dell’Orologio the Torre dell’Orologio and cupola of the Parrochia SS. Giovanni e Pietro
From the via dell’Orologio we quickly descended the historic center of town to make our way to the lakes. (It is best before you leave to download any maps as well as familiarize yourself with your overall route.  We found cellular service in the town a bit spotty, so if you are addicted to travel-by-phone only, you may run into difficulties and feel lost at times.)  However, if you are lucky enough to find the main road, via Garibaldi that leads to Corso Laghi, you are all set; the maar lakes are South on that road.
Lago Grande di Avigliana
After about a fifteen or twenty-minute walk we came across the first lake, Lago Grande, meaning “large lake”. The term maar comes from the fact that both of these lakes are essentially volcanic craters. The volcanoes are of course extinct, but since the lava domes they once had have collapsed, the depressions have filled with water making these amazing lakes. The green tint comes from a mixture of mountain glacier runoff and algae. However they got there, on a beautiful sunny day they are just amazing to see and enjoy.
Residents must enjoy the peace the lakes and mountains offer them since it appears that no motorboats are allowed on the them, only sailboats and others that require human power. Â We also witnessed several people swimming the width of the large lake which must be close to one kilometer. Â There is also a diving school on the East bank of the large lake where you can take diving lessons. Though we were within a short walk to the smaller lake we decided not to go, We had both walked over three miles and were starting to get a bit tired.
Patti enjoying the weather and a rest from all of our walking
The stroll back into town took another twenty or so minutes and we were now both hungry and looking for something to eat. Â We had thought about eating somewhere along the lake, but none of the restaurant menus there appealed to us. Â So we headed for the main piazza in town, piazza Conte Rosso.
Chiesa de San Giovanni
Retracing our route back to the piazza and up the long street stairs of via Garibaldi we see the Church of San Giovanni from under the Porta San Giovanni. The church stands there almost confused that it is no longer held up on the one side by a building that most likely once stood there. It most likely had been torn down centuries ago, but the scars from its lost companion are still obvious in the relentless sun. The facade, which one must say is somewhat unique, dates back to the 14th and 15th centuries and seems to borrow from several styles.
The food at Ristorante San Michele is very good and moderately expensive. There are daily specials and several dishes that are unique to the Piedmont. They also serve bio wine which is environmentally friendly, from the Piedmont, quite unique and is very, very good!
If you are in the area of the Piedmont or Turin and have a few hours or a day extra, then Avigliana might be a very relaxing choice for you. There is definitely enough to see and do, you can rent boats on the lakes and swim, and there is more than enough to eat and drink.
