Sitting less than two miles from Nice is Villefranche-sur-Mer, a mere walk away. Since this little port town is also part of the Côte d’Azur SNCF train system, we decided to do just that, one sunny day. We took a walk over the Mont Boron and took the train back.
Walking From Nice
If you are lucky enough to visit this quaint little town on the sea while no cruise ship is in the bay, then you would be as lucky as we were the day we decided to walk there from Nice. A frequent stop of cruise ships Villefranche-sur-Mer is the most used cruise ship docking port in France. Luckily we were spared both the site and the influx of tourists that accompanies such an ocurrence.
Mont Boron – Typical Vegetation
Mont Boron – View of Cape Ferrat
Mont Boron – French Parks Do Not Use Poisons
Mont Boron – Villefranche-sur-Mer
Mont Boron – The Bay of Villefranche-sur-Mer
Mont Boron – The Way Up
Mont Boron – Official Gate To The Park
From the old city of Nice, we ascended Mont Boron, which I must say is much higher on the side of Fort du Mont Alban than we experienced on Castle Hill, Mont Boron’s smaller cousin. However, there are very good paths that switchbacks all the way up to help you with the ascent.
Fort du Mont Alban
The fort from the outside appears to be a four-sided bastion fort. Made entirely of stone, it stands impressively on top of the mountain. Unfortunately, entrance cannot be gained and it appears to be closed. There are no indications that it has ever been opened to the public.
Nice – Fort du Mont Alban
Nice – The Front of Fort du Mont Alban
With the exception of walking up the front stairs to the main door, there appear to be no other entrances on the other sides.
Fort du Mont Alban – Main Gate
Fort du Mont Alban – North Side
Fort du Mont Alban – Ericka from Front Gate
Fort du Mont Alban – West Side
After getting our fill of the view from this vantage point, our walk to Villefranche-sur-Mer continued by finding the path to the town about a hundred meters to the left, leaving the fort. On your map, this path may be called the Chemin du Fort du Mont Alban.
Patti Descending the Chemin du Fort du Mont Alban
The path starts off easily without much slope, but it progressively gets steeper and less developed the further down you go, until you finally hit the town itself. So, care should be taken.
The Town On The Sea
The Bay of Villefranche-sur-Mer from Mayssa Beach Restaurant
From the path you will exit via a walkway to the Avenue du Fort. Since we were thirsty and starting to get hungry, we followed our noses down and finally found the Avenue du Marechal Foch. We found a cafe there for a quick drink. Then it was off to find a restaurant. Ericka found one overlooking the water called Mayssa Beach. A good pick, great service, excellent view and good food at a reasonable price.
Mayssa Beach – Ericka and Patti
Mayssa Beach – Heirloom Tomato Caprese
Mayssa Beach – Rigatoni Special
After haven eaten and relaxed a bit, we decided to walk the Quai de l’Amiral Courbet. The town is actually quite small and has very narrow streets. Enjoy the following photographs from this little gem on the coast.
The tiny medieval town of Èze-Village sits like a barnacle some fourteen hundred feet above the sea. From this perch you can see miles of coastline. The other part of the commune Èze-sur-Mer sits directly below it, very close to the sea. Historically, it is very old, going way back before Roman times. As I write this, I must confess some incredulity as why anyone would build something back then so high up and away from the sea. The only answer I can come up with is for protection from what I can only conjecture.
Getting There From Nice
To get to Èze-Village (tourism) from Niceyou have several public commuting options, in order of difficulty. You can take the bus directly there. The route was 82 at the time of this writing, but this may change, so check the bus schedule. The easiest was to do this is at the Information Center at the Nice Train Station. Keep in mind that buses depart from different places in the city, so you will either have to walk or make other arrangements, bus or tram perhaps, to get there. If a direct bus route is not to your liking you can also take the SNCF train. These run along the coast and depart from Nice regularly and stop at Èze-sur-Mer. You will then have to take the bus to Èze-Village atop the hill, or, hike up the hill which will take about an hour.
Èze-Village – From the Bus Stop
For those who experience motion sickness take care, as any bus ride you take will require the necessary sedatives or medications. The roads are very windy and have numerous switchbacks!
The Nietzsche Footpath – Length Over 2km
For those who cannot see their own toes and cannot touch them without bending their knees, I would not consider trying to hike up the mountain. It is somewhat treacherous and steep. We used it to return and on the way down we saw an older couple who were going down and having trouble (read shortness of breath, etc). The Nietzsche Footpath is impressive, it is not a real footpath but more like a hiking trail and has probably taken its share of victims over the years. Be smart and do NOT ignore the sign at the start.
Road Up To Èze-Village – The Start
Entering Èze-Village
Èze-Village
Èze-Village
Not knowing these options ahead of time, we decided to take the bus directly from Nice. Before it even arrived, there was quite a group of people waiting at the stop. If you do have motion sickness issues you may want to wait for a bus that is not packed or ask someone on the bus once you are on, if you may have a window seat. This is especially true if your bus driver, like ours, must have dreams of driving Formula One race cars! If your bus is as crowded as ours was, you may not be able to look out. So again, be prepared, you’ve been warned!
The Botanical Garden
Èze-Village – Overview from Botanical Garden
At the summit of this beautiful little town, sits a Botanical Garden. Called Èze Botanical Garden it displays vegetation that typically grows along the Mediterranean coast. The entry fee for us was 5€ and you pay right there before you go in. It’s probably money well spent since the views are amazing and they obviously use the money to keep the garden up, which I must say is in fantastic condition.
Patti and Erick – Botanical Garden
Our Daughter Ericka – Botanical Garden
There are also several places in the garden to take photographs.
Devil’s Bridge Plaque – Botanical Garden
Devil’s Bridge – Botanical Garden
The Botanical Garden also has an excellent view of the Devil’s Bridge (I know every town and country seems to have this bridge, but it’s pretty cool to see anyway).
The Perfumeries
Galimard Perfumery – Visitor Center Display
Galimard Perfumery – Visitor Center Display
Galimard Perfumery – Visitor Center Display
Galimard Perfumery – Cologne/Perfume Mixing Station
In Èze-Village there are several Perfumeries where one can make an appointment to actually spend time with a certified Perfumologist and mix their own fragrance. The two major ones that sit next to one another, are Galimard and Fragonard. We chose Galimard, for whatever reason and found the whole process quite intriguing, though completely out of my league (I just do not have the nose for it). The cost at 80€ each can be considered high but includes you walking away with your own scent. Which, if you consider would be in the range of 50€ to 60€, probably is not a bad deal for expert help.
Getting Back To Nice
Tagliatelle al Ragu, Salad and Wine – YUM!
After all of this, it was time for lunch. We found a nice little place right at the beginning of the village called “Mets Vins Chics“. They serve all kinds of lunch fare and wine at reasonable prices. If you do come to this area, you may notice how closely related the food in this area is to the neighboring Italian cities and towns. With the historical fluidity of borders and commerce, it should not be a surprise and it sure tastes good!
Once finished with our meal, our daughter Ericka wanted to check out Fragonard as well. They have somewhat of a larger showroom but unfortunately no longer mixed nor sold the fragrance she was interested in. So we left there, kind of disappointed.
The Nietzsche Footpath – Treacherous, like his Philosophy
It was time to head back and I decided to take the Nietzsche Footpath and the SNCF train back to Nice. The path is very steep and one must take care to make sure you do not slip and fall. It is also very long and will take you approximately 40 to 45 minutes just to descend. Then, there is another 5 minutes or so to walk to the train station along the road where the path exits.
The Nietzsche Footpath – Starts Out Innocent Enough
Parc Phoenix – Views
Parc Phoenix – Views
Parc Phoenix – Views
The Nietzsche Footpath – Views
Views From The Village
Parc Phoenix – Views
Parc Phoenix – Map
The Nietzsche Footpath – Views
Parc Phoenix – Views
The Nietzsche Footpath – Ericka Was Not Having Fun
Parc Phoenix – Views
The Nietzsche Footpath – View
Views From The Village
Views From The Village – Garden Below
Views From The Village – Garden Below
The Nietzsche Footpath – Views
Èze-Village is a very nice, interesting place to visit. There is not much there save the view and the garden, so I would suggest bundling it with something else, like the Perfumery, to make it worth the time and expense.
Nice and the Côte d’Azur conjure up thoughts of beautiful weather, money (rich people) and vacation. It is a destination that many people have on their bucket-list of things to do; if not for the casinos, then at least for the sun and crystal clear light-blue sea. It was after some trepidation on my part and a pause in our other travels, that we decided to go to Nice for another short holiday.
Nice – Front of Main Train Station
Nice – Inside Main Train Station
Whenever possible, we travel via train since it is more cost-effective and has one of the better, if not the best, Eco-friendly footprints. The trip took us surprisingly just over five hours from Turin, most likely due to a mixture of train schedules and the routes involved. However, one of the advantages of being retired is time is the one commodity you have in abundance.
Nice Airport – Looking at Welcome Sign
Nice Airport – Arrivals
Nice Airport – Ericka Waiting To Board Tram
Since this was not actually a last-minute decision, we were still able to use a modest amount of planning and coordinated the trip with our daughter Ericka, who joined us the following day. She flew in and using the Côte d’Azur(I must say) fabulous metro/tram system which now links up with both terminals at the airport, we were able to meet her at Terminal 1.
Tram Line on Avenue Jean Médicin
Our choice of Nice was due to many factors. First the train station is large and one can travel to many different places taking advantage of both regional and special coastal trains. It also happened to be in the center of the Côte d’Azur, the famous vacation coast which attracts visitors and tourists from both France, Europe and beyond. Nice has been expanding their metro and transportation system and it seems to be paying off; it did for us. If you are staying for any amount of time you can buy a 10-trip (not day) transportation pass for 10€ (that’s a 30 percent discount or 4 free trips). Though we did not use them all, we used enough to do better than break even. We then handed them to someone at the hotel, so they could use the rest.
Our Hotel
We stayed at the Hotel Belle Meunière, a short two-minute walk from the main train station and our domicile for our travels. Though our room was not much to look at per se, one has to understand the hotel is actually under renovations. The outside of the hotel is very well-kept and seems to be an old historical landmark of some kind, since they have obviously tried to keep it sound. The inside however, is somewhat confused but manageable. It is obviously a converted manor house. It is therefore, not really a hotel but more of a hotel/pension fusion, if there is such a thing.
Hotel Belle Meuniere – A Niçois Experience
We found the price and location with respect to the train station very acceptable and there are also very good Niçoisrestaurants nearby. However, the location also worked somewhat against it as well, since areas around train stations tend to be a bit dirty. This is also true of the area around this hotel. If you are really into the beach, you might prefer something closer to the shore, though they will be more expensive. Though I would not give it any Michelin stars, it was manageable and the staff go out of their way to make you comfortable.
Nice From Inside and Above
Notre-Dame de Nice
Nice is a typical European city. It has a core or old city surrounded by many environs or suburbs that have their own distinct look and things to see. One of the more prominent sights along the main Avenue Jean-Médecin in Nice, is the Roman Catholic Gothic basilica called Notre-Dame de Nice. Like Notre-Dame de Paris, it also has a large rose window on its front but is much younger, smaller and is not a cathedral (it is not even designed after the one in Paris). It will at least make you stop and take a photograph.
Castle Hill
Another must see is the overlook of the city from the Colline du Château or Castle Hill. It is a modest walk from the old city up the hill to the East, before you are able to enjoy the vista.
Ericka and Patti – Nice Overlook
Erick – Nice Overlook
There are several points along the way up to stop and enjoy the view of Nice.
Patti and Ericka – Enjoying The Waterfall After The Climb Up The Hill
There are also other things to see on Castle Hill, including a waterfall and an overlook of Villefranche-sur-Mer, the next town over, though somewhat obscured by trees on the walk down.
Erick and Patti – Enjoying Méssena Square
Avenue Jean Médecin
Méssena Square
Nice – Avenue Jean Médecin
Avenue Jean Médecin
Méssena Square
Ericka and Patti – Enjoying Méssena Square
Nice – Avenue Jean Médecin
Nice
Nice
Nice
Avenue Jean Médecin
Méssena Square
Nice
Avenue Jean Médecin
Avenue Jean Médecin
The above are a collection of our initial photographs as we walked through the city.
We also have favourite place in France, called Charlot Premier in Nice, which does excellent oysters.
Also known as the Queen’s Villa, the villa is situated in the Borgo Po district of Turin. Though the villa was first constructed in the 16th century by Cardinal Maurice of Savoy, it did not come into fame until the Savoy family ascended to the throne in 1713. Since the Duchess Anne d’Orléans, who was married to Duke Victor Amadeus II still owned the premises it automatically became known as the “Villa della Regina“, or the Queen’s Villa.
Strada Comunale Santa Margherita – Villa dell Regina Entrance
Strada Comunale Santa Margherita – Villa dell Regina Gate
Strada Comunale Santa Margherita – Villa dell Regina
Strada Comunale Santa Margherita – A long but gentle walk
Borgo Po – Turin does NOT use chemicals to fight Weeds
Villa della Regina – Pond
Villa della Regina – Reflecting Pond and Foutain
Villa della Regina – Tickets for Two
Wines produced at the Villa
Corso Fiume – Villa Crimea
Corso Fiume – After Crossing the Umberto I Bridge – Residential Neighborhood
More History and Tourism
In 1865 the Villa became a boarding school for girls until World War II, when it was later bombed and received extensive damage. Finally in 1994 the Tourism ministry or Turin finally obtained it and started restoring the structure which had badly fallen into disrepair. It was finally opened in 2006 to the public for tourism, but even now shows signs of decline with the difficulties of the Italian economy.
Examples of Landscaping Issues and Disrepair at the Villa
The Villa Inside
After purchasing a ticket which costs €5/person (unless you were lucky enough to enter on a free day, check the Turin website for dates), the Villa’s main hall is a real wonder and in very good condition.
Villa dell Regina – Main Hall Right – Apollo and Daphne
Villa dell Regina – Main Hall Left – Adoni’s Death
Villa dell Regina – Main Hall Windows toward Turin
Villa dell Regina – Hallway to King’s Rooms
The King’s Rooms
The visitor next sees the rooms the King would have when he was at the Villa. All of the floors in the Villa are parquet, with few exceptions.
King’s Entertainment Room – del Trucco
King’s Entertainment Room – del Trucco
King’s Entertainment Room – del Trucco
King’s Private Room – Chinese Style
King’s Private Room – Chinese Style
King’s Private Room – Chinese Style
King’s Private Room – Chinese Style
King’s Private Room – Chinese Style
King’s Private Room – Chinese Style
King’s Private Room – Chinese Style
King’s Private Room – Chinese Style
King’s Private Room – West Lobby
King’s Private Room – West Lobby
King’s Private Room – Typical Old Door
There is a short hallway with another beautiful ceiling before entering the Queen’s rooms.
Villa dell Regina – Hallway to Queen’s Rooms
Villa dell Regina – Main Hall
The Queen’s Rooms
The rooms that consist of those for the queen are unfortunately not in as good a condition as those of the King’s. This is most likely due to the extent of the damage from the bombing during the war to be more concentrated in this area.
The Queen’s Rooms – West Lobby
The Queen’s Rooms – West Lobby
The Queen’s Rooms – The 3 Tables in Scagliola
The Queen’s Rooms – The 3 Tables in Scagliola
The Queen’s Rooms – The 3 Tables in Scagliola
The Queen’s Rooms – West Bedroom
The Queen’s Rooms – West Bedroom
Five Appliques called Le Ventole – Giuseppe Maria Bonsanigo
The Queen’s Rooms – Dressing Room
The Queen’s Rooms – East Lobby
The Queen’s Rooms – East Lobby – Ceiling Painting Lost by Fire
The Queen’s Rooms – East Lobby
The Queen’s Rooms – East Room – delle Ventaglyne
The Queen’s Rooms – East Room – delle Ventaglyne
The Queen’s Rooms – East Room – delle Ventaglyne
Once you have finished the Queen’s rooms you find yourself again back at the Main Hall and your way out to the grounds, which at one point in their lifetime must have been beautiful, all the hallmarks are there.
The Grounds
Though poorly kept and in some cases falling still further into disrepair and eventual collapse, they are nonetheless impressive. The fountains though still functioning stand their vigil over empty pools of water that once might have kept chinese carp or goldfish but now just harbor algae.
Villa della Regina – Roman Style Garden with Statues and Fountain
Finally, more photographs of the grounds and surrounding area.
Recently while taking a break from planning our next big set of travels for September and October, we decided to visit another set of museums in Turin which one could call unusual if not down right odd. I would say odd because when one thinks of a museum, at least the first one below would not immediately pop into one’s mind.
Tickets for Two – Museum 1
Tickets for Two – Museum 2
Tickets for Two – Museum 3
The cost for each of the two museums above was €5 each. However, one can purchase a €10 entrance pass which includes the first two museums as well as the Museum of Fruit.
Museum of Criminal Anthropology
This Museum of Criminal Anthropology is located on the same block as the Museum of Human Anatomy. At via Pietro Giuria, it is housed in a somewhat unassuming building and if you were not actually looking for it you might pass by it altogether.
Entrance to the Museum of Criminal Anthropology
The building inside, like so many in Turin, has a grand architectural style inside and was probably under the influence of one of the many great architects that have worked in this city.
The Beautifully Adorned Ceiling before the Entrance to the Museum
So as to not bore you with the benefactor’s history of this museum, you may visit the website to learn more if you wish, let’s just say that once inside you get a very good idea of just how backward science and medicine were in those days. The main displays in this museum are those of skulls and artifacts from criminal patients who were often labeled crazy or insane. Many of the skulls were labeled with the crimes that each of the individuals committed, all of course written in Latin.
Cases Housing Patient Skulls
The adjacent side of the floor contained numerous examples of the implements used in many of the crimes that were committed.
Knives and other Handmade and often Strange Implements used by the Patients
If I were to sum up my thoughts of this very interesting museum it would be one of great curiosity. Not only for the obviously poor people who were involved and in some cases mistreated and misdiagnosed by their treating physicians, but for the times in which they lived. Many of which would have benefited from our medical knowledge of today, perhaps to the point of never turning to crime. As for the doctors and scientists involved it must have been a time of great discovery, however misguided some of them employed their influence and knowledge.
It took us a little over an hour to visit the entire museum and we would recommend it, though we would consider it a bit on the morbid side.
The Museum of Human Anatomy
On via Corso Massimo d’Azeglio and the adjacent street and same block as the previous museum one can visit the Museum of Human Anatomy. This is another museum where some may not be appropriate, especially if they are uncomfortable with anatomy, blood, brains or guts. So plan appropriately.
Museum of Human Anatomy
It can however be used as it had been in the past, as a very good pedagogical device for learning more about oneself and what composes the human organism. Having been used in the past as part of the medical university system in Turin it still offers valuable insights to visitors.
Internal Entrance to the Museum
This museum is also housed on a single floor. As you begin your tour you first learn of basic anatomy and view examples human and other animal skeletons.
The Introductory Case showing Human and Animal Skeletons
Once you move through the internal entrance door, after purchasing your tickets, you will see examples of human dwarf- and gigantism. This is followed by displays of the anatomical differences between the human sexes. After that, each successive colonnade displays in both wax and actual human form (samples that have been preserved in solution) specific areas of the body.
Curios filled with Human Anatomical Samples
Finally in the back of the museum one will find an in-depth study of the human nervous system, brains and actual examples of how individual nerves are routed and connected in the body.
A Large Figure showing how very important Anatomical Features are related
I would greatly encourage anyone with children to visit the museum. Though not for everyone, it can be used as a great teaching aid and perhaps put some young mind on the path of becoming a doctor of medicine or forensics. It’s also great just to learn how the scientific community in the late 18 and early 19 centuries learned about and taught anatomy.
Museum of the Risorgimento – The Apartment
Our next visit was actually triggered by an offer on Turin’s official website of free admission for a tour of the apartment associate with the Museum of the Risorgimento. The Risorgimento of course was the political and social movement that consolidated different states of Italy into a single state, or what became the Kingdom of Italy in the 19th century. It began in 1815 in Vienna and was completed in Rome after it became the capital Italy in 1871.
The Museum of the Risorgimento
Entrance to the Museum
Our Tour Group
The Facade of the Apartment
The part that we actually saw is not open often and is not actually part of the museum proper, but rather an adjunct to it. Special tickets are provided at a specific time during the day, so you must watch the website for when these are available.
Cities and Towns where Baroque Architect Guarino Guarini had influence
The apartment and the museum itself owe their legacy to Guarino Guarini, an influential architect or the baroque style of his day. He is responsible for many important architectural works of this style, none more so than the examples he left in Turin. However, he is also responsible for many other important works in a wide area that covers both Italy and France, as shown above.
The Apartment and Rooms of Emanuele Filiberto di Carignano – Bed Detail
The Apartment and Rooms of Emanuele Filiberto di Carignano – Chandelier
The Apartment and Rooms of Emanuele Filiberto di Carignano – Bed
The Apartment and Rooms of Emanuele Filiberto di Carignano – Wall Portrait
The Apartment and Rooms of Emanuele Filiberto di Carignano – Baroque Details
The Apartment and Rooms of Emanuele Filiberto di Carignano – Baroque Mirror Walls
The Apartment and Rooms of Emanuele Filiberto di Carignano – Baroque Ceiling Fresco Bedroom
The Apartment and Rooms of Emanuele Filiberto di Carignano – Baroque Ceiling
The Apartment and Rooms of Emanuele Filiberto di Carignano – Floor and Hallway/Galley Way
Emanuele’s rooms as styled after the Baroque influences of Guarini are impressive. Though one can say the gold leaf is a bit overdone the parquet flooring is amazing, even though it is showing its age.
Spiral Staircase Leading to Basement
The Oval Shape of the Spiral Staircase as seen from below
The Cellar
Typical Ovens and Dumbwaiter as Designed by Guarini
Though our self-guided tour took all of thirty to forty minutes it was nonetheless well worth the time, since absolutely no other expense was incurred (thank you Turin!) for us by doing so. If you are also fortunate enough to have the opportunity to visit these impressive rooms and architecturally significant buildings, we suggest you do so. We found them very compelling.
If one were to take Trenitalia from Turin Porta Nuova west to its logical end, one would find Susa, a quiet little alpine town built by the Gauls sometime before the Roman Empire. Excited? You should be, we were and were not disappointed.
Susa Station
We entered the town via the train station, an hour’s ride from our main train station in Turin. As we traveled down the Susa Valley, somewhere starting around Avigliana, we slowly became surrounded by hills, then mountains.
Train route down the Susa Valley
Upon reaching Susa, we were encircled by Graian Alps. , especially Rocciamelone which sits just due north of the town.
Overlooking the Park of Augusto, with Rocciamelone towering overhead
We had arrived around eleven o’clock in the morning, ready for some serious tourist trekking of the town and a peak at the food festival they were having this weekend.
Advertisement for the event
The food festival, just after opening
and before the massive food fight (tongue in cheek)
Gauls and Romans
The town, like many very old towns in Italy, enjoys a rich history dating back before and including the Roman Empire. When the Roman Empire ascended into existence after the Roman Republic, Susa became a voluntary part of it in the 1st century BC.
Ceasar Augustus Arch, Susa, 8 BC
The arch was positioned along the Via Cozia (today known as Via delle Gallie), the road that led to Gaul. Its age and architecture are impressive, it is also amazing that it has stood in such good shape for over two thousand years!
Roman Aqueduct Terme Graziane and Gates
The aqueduct above is impressive itself and was built to feed water to baths somewhere, however it actually disguises a dirty little Gaul secret. The wall that connects to it on the left masks a set of holes carved into the rocks that were supposedly used to collect blood from Gaul sacrifices. Nice right? Those Gauls knew how to party.
Patti on the grounds of the Civic Museum for Roman History
Susa Around Town
If you are not so inclined to delve deeply into the Roman history of the area, it is easy enough just to enjoy the town itself.
The Dora Riparia makes its trek through Susa carrying its aquamarine glacial waters. It eventually is joined by other tributaries, especially the Cenischia, before it reaches Turin and joins the river Po.
Susa Torre, Comune di Susa
The Torre in Susa, a building obviously repurposed over the years.
Piazza della Torre, Susa
Pizzeria Ristorante Italia
Finally after a few hours enjoying the absolutely gorgeous weather and amazing scenery it was time for something to eat. We decided the street food we saw was not going to slake our thirst nor satiate us, so we ventured away from the center of town, which we also found much too noisy (they do allow cars to flow through it). From the Piazza Trento we walked down the via Francesco Rolando and found an obvious favorite, Pizzeria Ristorante Italia.
Inside Pizzeria Ristorante Italia
The restaurant was actually quite busy; the photograph above being taken before the mass of locals entered in small groups to eat their lunch. Many of which ordered the blue plate and much to our chagrin got served before ourselves. Oh well, it wasn’t like we were in a hurry, being retired is so nice…
Patti’s Bruschetta
and Papadelle Al Ragú
Susa A Great One Day Adventure
We had a marvelous time in Susa and want to come back in the Fall and perhaps Winter to enjoy the change of season and their Christmas market respectively. So we encourage you, if you are ever in the vicinity of Turin, do not dismiss Susa as a possible day trip. Check their calendar first, just in case they have something special going on. Even if they don’t, a one day trip just for the history will be worth it. Until then, here are some extra photographs of Susa for your enjoyment.
Piazza 4th of November, Susa
Patti going toward San Giusto Cathedral
Another overlook of Park Augustu
via Martin Della Liberta
Looking Southeast towards the Nature Reserve
Looking South towards the Nature Reserve
Dora Riparia looking towards France
Susa
Susa
The 33rd Historical Tournament celebration party display
Dora Riparia looking East toward Turin
Dora Riparia and its blue waters
Susa
Susa
Narrow Alleys in Susa
Flowers adorning a wall in Susa
Fresco adorning the outside entry to the Cathedral
Image from doorway to the Museum looking towards the Nature Reserve and mountains
A short trip by train just outside and to the west of Turin lies Avigliana, a medieval town some would call a small city. However, regardless of its size, it is charming nonetheless.
Turin Porta Nouva to Avigliana via TrenitaliaAvigliana Train Station
We arrived on a picture perfect day with only a few clouds hovering over the mountains to the North and West and no threat of rain whatsoever in sight.
Abbey Sacra di San Michele
As soon as we left the train station we could see the Abbey Sacra di San Michele perched on the Monte Pirchiriano to the West. From Avigliana this is also an easy sight to visit if you are traveling by car. However, even if you are traveling by train and on foot it is also possible if you have the time. It lies some ten kilometers from town and has history that dates back to the tenth century. Our trip centered more on the historic part of town and visiting the lakes, which promised to be magnificent.
via Porta Ferrata, Avigliana
Porta Ferrata, Avigliana
Church Santa Croce
Patti and the overlook from Santa Croce
Our ascent to the town was along a more or less direct route from the train station. Instead of following the signs near the train station, we walked via San Giuseppe to via Porta Ferrata. Once you reach the fork in the road take the right branch which will bring you to the Church of Santa Croce and an uncommon overlook of the Susa Valley. Coming back down and continuing a bit further we came across the Porta Ferrata, an old medieval gate that dates back to the 13th century.
Panoramic view from the overlook at the Church of Santa Croce
We had now spent a little over an hour walking through the narrow streets and alleys, exploring those little areas that afforded us access. From the spine of the hill on which the town sits, one can get some great photographs of the mountains, including historic landmarks.
From via Dell’Orologio the Torre dell’Orologio and cupola of the Parrochia SS. Giovanni e Pietro
From the via dell’Orologio we quickly descended the historic center of town to make our way to the lakes. (It is best before you leave to download any maps as well as familiarize yourself with your overall route. We found cellular service in the town a bit spotty, so if you are addicted to travel-by-phone only, you may run into difficulties and feel lost at times.) However, if you are lucky enough to find the main road, via Garibaldi that leads to Corso Laghi, you are all set; the maar lakes are South on that road.
Lago Grande di Avigliana
After about a fifteen or twenty-minute walk we came across the first lake, Lago Grande, meaning “large lake”. The term maar comes from the fact that both of these lakes are essentially volcanic craters. The volcanoes are of course extinct, but since the lava domes they once had have collapsed, the depressions have filled with water making these amazing lakes. The green tint comes from a mixture of mountain glacier runoff and algae. However they got there, on a beautiful sunny day they are just amazing to see and enjoy.
Residents must enjoy the peace the lakes and mountains offer them since it appears that no motorboats are allowed on the them, only sailboats and others that require human power. We also witnessed several people swimming the width of the large lake which must be close to one kilometer. There is also a diving school on the East bank of the large lake where you can take diving lessons. Though we were within a short walk to the smaller lake we decided not to go, We had both walked over three miles and were starting to get a bit tired.
Patti enjoying the weather and a rest from all of our walking
The stroll back into town took another twenty or so minutes and we were now both hungry and looking for something to eat. We had thought about eating somewhere along the lake, but none of the restaurant menus there appealed to us. So we headed for the main piazza in town, piazza Conte Rosso.
Chiesa de San Giovanni
Retracing our route back to the piazza and up the long street stairs of via Garibaldi we see the Church of San Giovanni from under the Porta San Giovanni. The church stands there almost confused that it is no longer held up on the one side by a building that most likely once stood there. It most likely had been torn down centuries ago, but the scars from its lost companion are still obvious in the relentless sun. The facade, which one must say is somewhat unique, dates back to the 14th and 15th centuries and seems to borrow from several styles.
Piazza Conte Rosso
Piazza Conte Rosso is a working piazza, with cars co-mingling with pedestrians. From here one can see the ruins of the old castle on the hill, Castello di Avigliana. There are also several caffés and bars here, as well as the restaurant, San Michele.
Ristorante San Michele
The food at Ristorante San Michele is very good and moderately expensive. There are daily specials and several dishes that are unique to the Piedmont. They also serve bio wine which is environmentally friendly, from the Piedmont, quite unique and is very, very good!
If you are in the area of the Piedmont or Turin and have a few hours or a day extra, then Avigliana might be a very relaxing choice for you. There is definitely enough to see and do, you can rent boats on the lakes and swim, and there is more than enough to eat and drink.
For the next few months, the Museum Reali here in Turin is sponsoring an exhibit of some of Leonardo da Vinci’s works. So my wife and I thought it would be a great opportunity to see the originals of his work for which up to now we have only been fortunate enough to see in books.
The tickets are actually purchased at the ticket office, for which there are plenty of signs to point you in the correct direction (you shouldn’t get lost.) The entrance fee is a bit high, 15€/person, but we thought it is Leonardo and his works usually do not disappoint. So we purchased our tickets and headed to the museum.
One word of caution, though it is advertised that there are some fifty plus works in the collection, they are not all produced by Leonardo. Some are only attributed to him through his working with colleagues and apprentices. So one must pay attention to the note cards for each piece or, if you have paid for it, the audio headset (we no longer get these since we have always found them not to work very well.)
Dioramas and Models
The collection boasts of a few models and dioramas which the visitor can enjoy. Though not directly built by Leonardo, they are from designs that he had put forth in his many notebooks and journals.
Allesandro Siriati’s – Scythed Chariot, 1956
Anatomical Studies and Drawings
Most the of original Leonardo works have to do with his studies of human and animal forms. He was particularly adept at musculature and studies of the face.
Hercules with the Nemean Lion, 1505-08
According to the museum, the above drawing was probably an initial sketch for a proposed statue that never was made. It was apparently destined to stand next to his statue of David in Florence once it was completed.
da Vinci – Male head in profile with a Laurel, 1506-11
There are several sketches and drawings of the human head. Some, like the above, just to capture the heroic nature of some of his models. Others for more exact studies into the human proportions of the face and all of its parts.
da Vinci – Studies of the Proportions of the Face and of the Eye, 1489-90
The one on the left above was a study in the proportions of the eye. This was subsequently glued onto another sheet to join it to his study of the proportions of the overall face. Both show Leonardo‘s interest in the mathematical proportions of his subjects and how they were involved with one’s ability to see, providing us evidence of his overall curiosity of the human condition.
da Vinci – Self Portrait, 1517-18
The portrait to the left is described by the museum as being a self-portrait of the master himself. Though an obviously brilliant work with its economy of lines, etc., it does evoke a sense of wonder as to whether he could have achieved such details from himself, given the deplorable state of mirror technology at that time. It is also very possible that it is either his idealistic image of himself or perhaps more likely of a philosopher of old. In either case it has become our accepted representation of the master who has earned the right to be so represented by his enormous collection of works and detailed analysis of everything he had undertaken.
Poetry and Literary Works
Though actually not known for it, Leonardo did some writing. The museum has several examples of his poetry on display.
Autographed Sonnet with Self Portrait while Frescoing the Ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, 1508-12
The most notable of which is the self-portrait above. The sonnet describes Leonardo‘s “Beard in the Sky” position while painting the Sistine Chapel.
Flight and More Familiar Works
Mechanics seemed to have been one of Leonardo‘s passions. Most of use are somewhat acquainted with his works on the subjects. Even the Wright Brothers read his works on the subjects as an introduction to flight mechanics.
da Vinci – Codex Atlanticus, 1493-94
In the above codex Leonardo explored the mechanics and structure of the bird wing. He was very interested in how this could be expressed mechanically with the use of wood and rope. The above design is also articulated in a model which hangs very near the above sketch.
da Vinci – Codex on the Flight of Birds, 1505
Finally his Codex on the Flight of Birds goes into great detail. There are some eighteen or so pages of documentation around this subject for which he had hope to pull together into a book on the subject, but never completed it.
Conclusion
An excellent primer on Leonardo‘s studies, as well as his excellent ability for detailing with pen and ink. There is also a short video on how the writing instruments and inks were developed in that time period which we found very informative.
Though a bit expensive, if you are at all curious and can afford it we think it worth the time and expense.
Upon arrival and leaving the local train station a map of Asti, strategically located for those visiting the tiny city, greets all. It is actually quite informative and gives anyone a good overview of the local points of interest. However in order to have seen the map above one probably also missed the pedestrian tunnel to cross the busy intersection to town from the train station, we did!
Piazza Statuto
If you bear to the left after the traffic circle and upon entering the town one of the first sites and piazzas, like any other typical Italian town, is the Piazza Statuto. A quaint little piazza in what I would call a lazy and relaxing little town.
Piazza San Secondo – left view
Piazza San Secondo by contrast is a much larger piazza and is ringed with some shopping, if you are inclined to do any shopping while here. In the background popping up over the rooftops one can also see the top of the Torre Troyana.
Piazza San Secondo – right view
Of course the dominant building in this piazza is a catholic church for which the piazza is named after, the church San Secondo. A short walk down the small street directly across from the piazza takes you to the Torre Troyana.
Piazza Medici and the Troyan Clock Tower
The Piazza Medici Asti has the historical Torre Troyana o dell’Orologio. Originally started in the 12th century it was eventually bought by the Troya family and finished. Later the municipality of Asti purchased the tower and annexed it to the neighboring government building. As some point a clock was added, probably inside since I saw no evidence of one on the exterior of the building.
via Pelletta, looking toward the San Secondo church
If you are ever traveling in Italy and are tired of all the crowds of tourists, Asti should be one of your stops. Not that I like to encourage tourism, but if you are looking for a lazy day of strolling around unaffected by the hordes of international travelers this could be a good one day stop for you too. As can be seen by the photograph above the town’s side streets offer a relaxing substitute from some of the busier places around Italy.
Restaurant Le Teste di Rapa
Lunch in Asti offers many possibilities, from regional pizza and focaccia to enoteca and restaurant fusions offering great wines and food. After reading several menus on the street and walking around a bit, we decided on Le Teste di Rapa.
This restaurant offers no outside seating but is rather large inside and has both a downstairs and an upstairs. It also draws a very large local lunch crowd, so it is probably best to get there a bit early, between 12 to 12:30, especially if you have a train to catch or other time constraint. The locals seem to show up around one o’clock and for what we saw pack the place in pretty well.
Bertolino – a great Barbera d’Asti Superiore
The regional wines are the best to try and there is a wide selection. Though Asti is known for Asti Spumante, there are also other great varietals if you are not up for something bubbly. One of which are the Barberas. They go very well with rich food, in my case a dish of Italian meatballs and in Patti’s the daily special of eggplant parmesan. Both dishes were excellent and served with a fresh local white bread.
Patti outside the restaurant
The Palio di Asti
Once we left the restaurant we had another fifty minutes or so to spend and decided we had time to stroll over to see if there was anything interesting around Asti’sPalio (the less well-known cousin of the one in Siena.)
The Palio here is of course a ringed street, that is it goes around in a complete loop, an essential requirement if you are having any kind of race. Though less well-known, Asti’s horse race also goes way back to the thirteen century. A main difference one can see between this venue and the one in Siena is the Asti version has a central piazza encircled by a walkway and a double row of trees. During most of the year this piazza apparently supports a small outside market. Nowhere as busy or large as the one in Turin, but offering the same kind of goods one expects to find at such a market with very reasonable prices as well.
Asti Train Station – Back to Turin
We finally made it back at the train station, taking the pedestrian tunnel this time, around twenty minutes to three.
Asti train station and platforms
The trip between Asti and Turin P.N. (Porta Nuova) is just over thirty minutes with only one stop in between just outside of Turin. Otherwise the trip is totally second class at €5.25 one way per person, so do not expect to be able to purchase a first class ticket. But seats are comfortable and plentiful in both directions. The views outside the train are a bit better than traveling toward Milan and points East.
Poppies and the bucolic Italian countryside
In any case a very relaxing and lazy day for an excursion to Asti and one destination worth the visit if you have the time, if only for the food and wine! ???? Ciao for now.
Today, after contemplating the weather for tomorrow and whether or not it would be any better in the next few days, Patti and I decided to take a bus and the tramway to Basilica Superga. She astutely determined we had to take the 61 Bus from Vittorio Veneto over to Sassi. So around ten after eleven in the morning we made tracks for the local fermata.
Two Tickets from Sassi-Superga to Basilica Superga
The Sassi-Superga Tramway
In Sassi we purchased tickets for the cogged railway (a.k.a. rack railroad or tramway)Superga Tramway to the Basilica Superga. The tramway runs every hour on the hour from Sassi to Superga and subsequently on the half-hour on return. Tickets are purchased at the base of the railway from a vending machine, and yes the machine has an english option and roundtrip tickets cost 6 euros.
Car D12 on the Sassi-Superga Rack railway
The ride is awesome and the gradient is pretty steep even though they use regular rail cars, unlike the ones that are built at an angle, like on funicular railcars we have been on.
My attempt at taking a selfie together (not sure what they call that) and failing…
We enjoyed the ride up and the beautiful Spring weather, temperature in the mid 60’s and the cool mountain air, yummm.
Erick enjoying his Campari Spritz after that difficult tramway ride
After disembarking the tramway it was time for a quick break right at the station. A quick salami and cheese panini and Campari Spritz to get re-energized. After the customary 15 minute wait after ordering at the bar we were able to eat. One has to remind oneself to slow down when traveling in Italy, time is not a constant on all parts of the Earth.
Basilica Superga
The basilica it situated on top of the Superga hill which is some 2200 feet above the city and therefore makes it a very prominent point of interest when looking to the north from the city.
The Basilica’s Cupola as seen from the tramway and the start of our small hike to the Basilica
After a short ten minute walk up a fairly steep hill you climb a short set of stairs and then see the Basilica all of a sudden. On a fairly clear day its structure makes it stick out of the sky.
Basilica Superga
Unfortunately, this May the Basilica was closed for renovations, so we were not able to see the actual interior. Even without a close inspection of the structure one can easily see that no one can argue with this, since there are clearly cracks and other obvious things that need repair. That required us to contribute somehow, so we decided we must visit the cupola since it was still open, regardless of cost.
Two tickets to the Basilica Superga’s Cupola, no baggage!
After the purchase of our tickets, we had to climb the 131 steps to the cupola and see the oversight of Turin.
Erick climbing the first 100 steps, the final 30 would prove to have much less room
The oversight is pretty breathtaking, unfortunately in between rainy days, we were only able to get a semi-clear view of the mountains surrounding Turin.
Looking West Northwest from the Basilica over North Turin
The River Po can be seen above at the foot of the photograph. This is the river that cuts through Turin and has its origins in the Italian Alps.
Looking West Southwest from the Basilica over Turin; one can see the Mole to the right of the River Po on the left
One can actually get an almost 360 degree view of the surrounding area from the Basilica’s vantage point.
Looking to the East Northeast over the Basilica’s Palazzo
And finally a bit to the South.
Looking to the East Southeast over the roof of the Basilica
The rooftop fully surveyed we also enjoyed our cramped but slow descent down the staircase to our exit.
Patti on her way down
After our little climb we were still a bit hungry, the panini having been made with a tortilla and not the traditional focaccia left our stomachs a bit wanting; we therefore decided to visit the Artis Opera at Superga Basilica and eat something else.
Patti at the restaurant, a very small room but comfortable
Though the room we had lunch in was very small with four tables in all; there were of course other rooms. It was very comfortable and the waiter was very attentive. I had a Insalata Mista and Patti had the Risotto Piemontese.
Erick – the railroad is in our blood. Damn can’t escape it!
Our return trip and ride down was just as enjoyable as the ride up. Springtime in Piemonte I must say is just GREAT!
So my wife and I thought it would be a great opportunity to see the originals of his work for which up to now we have only been fortunate enough to see in books.
