Vienna – Altstadt – Himmelpfortgasse – City Building
Vienna – Altstadt – Himmelpfortgasse und Seilerstätte
Vienna – Altstadt – Himmelpfortgasse und Seilerstätte
Stubentor And City Wall
Along our walk we happened upon a monument for the old city wall and the Stuben Tower, which was part of it at one time.
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Stuben Stadtmauer
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Stuben Stadtmauer
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Stuben Stadtmauer
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Stuben Stadtmauer
The Danube
After a considerable two to three mile walk, and a cafe stop for coffee, we enjoyed a walk to this famous river, as well as a short walk along its banks.
Vienna – Zwischenbrücken – Danube – Entrance
Vienna – Zwischenbrücken – Danube – Entrance
Vienna – Zwischenbrücken – Danube – Entrance – River Cruises
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – More brown than blue
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – More brown than blue
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – Reichesbrücke
The Church of Saint Francis of Assisi
Not far from the Danube and in the Stuwerviertal, close to Mexicoplatz is the church of Saint Francis of Assisi.
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – Church of Saint Francis of Assisi
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – Church of Saint Francis of Assisi
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – Church of Saint Francis of Assisi
Saint Stephan’s Cathedral
Almost directly in the center of the old city is Saint Stephan’s Cathedral. We were fortunate enough to be at the cathedral on a Sunday to hear them play the marvelous bells.
The cathedral is impressive, both inside and out, almost reminiscent of the Kolner Dom.
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Saint Stephan’s Cathedral
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Saint Stephan’s Cathedral
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Saint Stephan’s Cathedral – Entrance
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Saint Stephan’s Cathedral – Roof
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Saint Stephan’s Cathedral – Inside
Located about two hours north of Turin by train and down a very large valley, is the small city of Aosta (pronounced: Ahh’osta). It is a cute little city of about thirty-five thousands inhabitants and a former ancient Roman military outpost.
Aosta – From Gargantua
We had planned a short trip for Aosta some time ago, hoping to go there during the hot summer month of July, but we were busy. So, we adjusted our plans to September and glad we did. The valley can be as hot as the Po Valley in summer and can also have wild swings in weather. So, along with the fact that we had additional plans for Mont Blanc, we prepared both ways, and perhaps in the end packed a bit too heavily.
The Valley
It is located in the Aosta Valley of the same name and is the capital of one of the autonomous regions in Italy. It can be found at the confluence of the rivers Dora Baltea, which starts at the foot of Mont Blanc, and the Buthier, which starts at the foot of the Grandes Murailles glacier and the Valpelline valley.
Aosta – Looking Southeast from Omama hotel
Aosta – Looking South and Mount Garin
Aosta – The Buthier river
Aosta – The Buthier river
The City
The city is an ancient Roman enclave and military output, that was supported by the Roman Empire and an important Roman presences in the first century, guarding the northern pass from barbarians. Augustus Caesar is displayed throughout the city in many bronzes and other forms of statue.
Aosta – Tickets For Two – Archeological Sites Aosta
If you are going to do any meaningful investigation of this city, you must enjoy its many archeological sites. In order to do so, a visit to the information center is needed, its by the Praetorian Gate (or triple bridge), and for a modest 8€/person, you can purchase tickets to all of the important venues in town.
Aosta – Looking Southeast from Omama hotel
Aosta – Looking South and Mount Garin
Aosta – via Torino
Aosta – Early Morning View from Hotel Room
Aosta – Piazza Émile Chanoux
Aosta – Aosta Cathedral
Aosta – Early Morning View from Hotel Room
Aosta – Main Train Station
Aosta – Piazza Emile Chanoux
Aosta – Water Wheel
Aosta – Ancient House
Aosta – Orchard in front of the Roman Theater
Aosta – Bell Tower of the Church of Sant Orso
Aosta – Giardini Pubblici Emilio Lussu
Roman Arch Of Augustus
The enormous Arch of Augustus was built in 25 BCE to commemorate Augustus Caesar’s victory over the Salassis.
Aosta – Roman Gate of Augustus Ceasar
Aosta – Roman Gate of Augustus Ceasar
Located by the Pietra di Aosta bridge, which goes over the Buthier river, it is a large arch that contains a cross inside.
The Roman Theater
Another important site is the Roman Theater. Apparently in the early 1900s there were several structures built against the entrance, using it as one wall in their buildings. When the government decided that it was an important archeological site, these buildings were raised to prepare the site for excavations.
Aosta – Roman Theater
Aosta – Roman Theater
Aosta – Roman Theater
Aosta – Roman Theater
Aosta – Roman Theater
Aosta – Roman Theater – Section of Theater
The Roman Wall and Towers
The city is encircled by a Roman Wall and several towers, four of which mark each corner of the rectangle that is made by the walls.
Aosta – Bell Tower and front of the Church of Sant Orso
Romanesque Cloister of Sant-Orso
A fine example of Romanesque art and cloister architecture the Cloister of Saint Orso.
Aosta – Arches and Columns inside of the Cloister of Sant Orso
Almost every column lining the portico inside the cloister has a unique sculpted capital, depicting strange images of times forgotten. Some of the columns have multiple pillars abutting their capitals, making them even stranger and perhaps more difficult to understand by researchers.
Aosta – Fresco inside of the Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Arches and Columns inside of the Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Arches and Columns inside of the Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Interesting Double-Columns inside of the Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals Legend – Cloister of Sant Orso
Paleo-Christian Church Of Sant Lorenzo
Of special interest is the small, paleo-christian Church of Saint Lorenzo. An archeological site in its own right, the old church has actually been excavate underneath the existing church of the same name, Church of Sant Lorenzo.
Aosta – The Paleo-Christian Church of Sant Lorenzo
Aosta – The Paleo-Christian Church of Sant Lorenzo
Aosta – The Paleo-Christian Church of Sant Lorenzo
Aosta – The Paleo-Christian Church of Sant Lorenzo
The Cryptoportico
No one actually knows what the Cryptoportico was used for, it is only known that it was a large rectangular structure with a corresponding lighted basement. It has been conjectured that the layout hints at its use as a marketplace and the cellar as a storage place for grain and other commodities. Unfortunately the slide show provided in the cellar is provided only in Italian, but that appears to only have explained the archeological details of the excavation and not necessarily its intended use.
Aosta – Cryptoporticus Museum
Aosta – Cryptoporticus Museum – Barrel Arches
Aosta – Cryptoporticus Museum – Barrel Arches excavations
Aosta – Cryptoporticus Museum – Barrel Arches
Aosta – Cryptoporticus Museum – Barrel Arches
Aosta – Cryptoporticus Museum – Barrel Arches
Restaurants
Caffe Nazionale
Its claim to fame ostensibly is that it’s the oldest cafe in Aosta. Aside from its coffee being overpriced, its outside seating suffering from the hot sun (no umbrellas) and it only having one staff member taking orders, its coffee and brioche are good. However, when I can purchase two Capucinos and two Brioches of the same or better quality right next to my hotel at half the price, it is definitely not worth it! However, if you want a seat in the Piazza Emile Chanoux to eat breakfast, then it is perhaps one of your only options.
Aosta – Caffe Nazionale – Piazza Emile Chanoux
Ristorante Aldente
A very good restaurant, offering both inside and outside seating, is Aldente.
Aosta – Ristorante Aldente
They have a full wine list, with a concentration on local and regional wines, so a great place to try something new. The menu has all the local favorites, consisting of a blend of Italian and French cuisines. A great place to eat for a special evening, or just to relax and enjoy great food.
Aosta – Ristorante Aldente – Fumin Wine – Valle D’Aosta
Aosta – Ristorante Aldente – Braised Veal with Vegetables
House O Break
A fantastic place for lunch or dinner. We ate here twice, since they have a varied menu with many local specialties at very good prices.
Aosta – Break O House – Front
Aosta – Break O House – Spaghetti e Vongole
Aosta – Break O House – Crepe with Fontina Cheese and Béchamel
PubBurger
Nothing special, but dying for something different we went to a burger chain here called PubBurger. The burgers are actually pretty good, but the buns are a bit hard, unlike the ones in the States. The quantity of French Fries too was a bit on the small side, considering it is a burger place, but I didn’t complain because the size of the burger was HUGE!
Visitors are free to come and enjoy the basilica, as well as the Walk of Solitude, though you will often hear few people adhering to the advice of all the signs on the path.
The Ferry Ride
An hour’s journey by ferry from Omegna will take you to the Island and other points of interest along the lake. You can purchase a day ticket for a little more than nine euros, or one-way and return-trip tickets for slightly less, depending on your itinerary.
Lake Orta – Omegna – Ferry Launch
The public ferry will make several stops along the way, before it reaches its final destination of Isle of San Giulio and the town of San Giulio itself. There are two main ferry routes, the green route – which goes the length of the lake twice daily, and the red route – which constantly goes to core destinations in the middle of the lake routinely during the day.
Lake Orta – Omegna – Ferry Launch
Lake Orta
Lake Orta – Ferry Ride to San Giulio
Lake Orta – Ferry Ride to San Giulio
Lake Orta – Ferry Ride to San Giulio
Lake Orta – Ferry Ride to San Giulio
Lake Orta – Ferry Ride to San Giulio- Isle of San Giulio
Lake Orta – Ferry Ride – Looking Toward Omegna
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Boat Launch View
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Boat Launch View
Lake Orta – Ferry Ride – Isle of San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Boat Launch View
Lake Orta – Boat Launch – Isle of San Giulio
The Island of San Giulio
There are only a few points of interest on the island. The basilica, the cafe, where one can get something to drink or a bite to eat when it’s lunchtime, and the Walk of Solitude.
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – From Ferry
Basilica of San Giulio
The basilica inside is replete with frescoes and other painting. and definitely worth a visit.
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Guilio
The slideshow below shows additional items you will see upon entering.
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Basilica San Giulio
Walk of Solitude
The walkway takes you completely around the island and requires about twenty or so minutes to complete, perhaps longer if you stop at the cafe or for photographs.
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Patti on the Walk of Silence
So, if you are looking to unwind and have a nice quiet walk in a very unique place, this island might be something for you to do if in the area. The only advice we can offer is to go early, that is, if you want maximum quiet and beat the other tourists before they crowd the beaten path. Enjoy!
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Monastery Tower
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Well
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Walk of Silence
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Boat Launch View
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Boat Launch View
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – San Giulio
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Boat Launch View
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Walk of Silence
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Interesting Gate
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Walk of Silence
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Walk of Silence
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Walk of Silence
Lake Orta – Isle of Orta – Walk of Silence – Nun Hand Knockers
Somewhere in the northeast of Italy, north and east of even Venice, is the small city of Udine. The largest city before you enter Slovenia to the east and Austria to the north. From here you can see the Austrian and Julian Alps.
Udine – Alps panorama
From Ljubljana we took an Austrian train to Villach and then over to Udine. Along the way were able to enjoy sights of the Julian Alps out our window and just relax.
Probably one of the most underrated and unlikely places we have been this year is Udine. Unlikely, because it is usually not on anyone’s radar, though we met numerous French and German tourists enjoying it. Underrated, because we think it has some things to offer, that others might not find in the exact same way elsewhere.
Udine – The City
Udine – Near Porto Manin
The people in Udine are very urbane and really enjoy tourist in their small city. They make an extra effort to speak and understand English, where you may not find such proclivities in other Italian cities and towns.
Udine – The City
Udine – Piazza XX Septembre
Udine – Piazza della Liberte
Udine – Piazza della Liberte
Udine – Piazza della Liberte
Udine – Piazza della Liberte
Udine – Piazza della Liberte – Loggia del Lionel
Udine – Piazza della Liberte – Loggia di San Giovanni
Udine – Piazza della Liberte – Loggia del Lionel
Udine – Piazza della Liberte – Loggia del Lionel
Udine – Piazza della Liberte – Loggia di San Giovanni
Udine – Piazza della Liberte – Loggia di San Giovanni
Udine – Piazza della Liberte – Loggia di San Giovanni
Udine – via Mercatovecchio
Udine – Porticos
Udine – The City
Udine – Grand Garden Park
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – View of Udine
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – View of Udine – Loggia di San Giovanni Top of Clock Tower
Udine – Narrow City Streets
Udine – via Mercatovecchio
Udine Castle
Destroyed in the sixteenth century by a violent earthquake, the Udine Castle was rebuilt soon afterwards and stands today housing several museums. It actually sits atop an artificial hill, by all accounts ancient and predating Rome in nature, and is the highest and largest artificial hill in Europe.
Udine – Udine Castle
Udine – Udine Castle
The Civic Museum of the Risorgimento
This museum has artifacts from local historic events following the fall of Venice, up to the time of the mid 1800s. Including documents and written accounts of the annexation of Friuli to the Kingdom of Italy in 1866.
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Friulian Artifacts
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Old Fireplace
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Storage Closet
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Display
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Unusual Doors
The Archaeological Museum
This museum contains an impressive ancient coin collection and other artifacts from ancient and Roman times. Including amphorae, old oil lamps and other funerary objects. Though a small collection, it was rather interesting to learn where each was found locally and their relative histories.
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Roman Stones
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Roman Artifacts
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Another Exhibit
Gallery of Ancient Art
A gallery of art comprising works of local artists from the fourteenth to the nineteenth centuries. Most of the work appear religious in nature. Some of those that caught my eye in particular are the following.
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Painting – Giuseppe Garibaldi
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Bronze of Soldiers
Diorama of the Battle of Montebello
Complete with a map showing the order of battle, this diorama clicks all the right boxes for the model builder at heart.
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Diorama – Order of the Battle of Montebello
The museum has an extraordinary diorama of the Battle of Montebello. For anyone that is or was a model builder, or a warfare historian, one can stand and just marvel at it for some time.
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Diorama – Battle of Montebello
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Diorama – Battle of Montebello
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Diorama – Battle of Montebello
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Diorama – Battle of Montebello
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Diorama – Battle of Montebello
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Diorama – Battle of Montebello
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Diorama – Battle of Montebello
Churches
There are several noteworthy churches in the area, though we were not actually able to visit all of them inside.
Chapel of Palazzo del Monte di Pietà
A chapel, which has beautiful frescoes and is now actually part of the bank Intesa Sanpaolo, is in the Palazzo del Monte di Pietà. Often walked right by tourists, if they are not paying attention, this chapel is a gem, see for yourself.
Udine – Palazzo del Monte di Pieta – Doorway
Udine – Palazzo del Monte di Pieta – Altar of the Pieta
Udine – Palazzo del Monte di Pieta – Ceiling
Church of Saint Maria di Castello
A church that is at the top of the hill and adjacent to the Castel is the Saint Maria di Castello. Complete with bell tower, a remarkable example
Udine – Church of Saint Maria
Cathedral Santa Maria Annuziata
The Cathedral of Santa Maria Annuziata is known for its octagonal bell tower. It can be seen from the castle hill, along with the church which is a major landmark in the city. Formerly consecrated as the Cathedral of Santa Maria Maggiore in 1335, it has three naves and chapels along the sides. Since it was not open at the time, we were only able to get some photographs of the outside.
Udine – Cathedral Santa Maria Annunziata
Udine – Cathedral Santa Maria Annunziata
Udine – Cathedral Santa Maria Annunziata
Udine – Cathedral Santa Maria Annunziata
The Corte di Palazzo Morpurgo is also close by the front of the cathedral, so just wandering across the street from the front of the church should bring you there.
Udine – Corte di Palazzo Morpurgo
Udine – Corte di Palazzo Morpurgo
Hotels
We chose the Astoria Hotel Italia for its old world charm, eschewing some of the more contemporary offers that were available. When we travel, it’s one of those things that can set off one place from another.
The Astoria Hotel Italia
The hotel Astoria Italia has maintained itself as though it fits into the landscape. It sports new amenities, like contemporary and renovated bathrooms (a must), while keeping some of that old world charm. I disagree with putting contemporary style beds in such old rooms, which they clearly want to preserve, but I am probably in the minority (I rather prefer, if its old keep old, like it came out of the nineteenth century, then you get that step-back-in-time feel).
Udine – Astoria Hotel
In any case, our hotel was great and provided a very central place from which to explore the rest of the old city.
Udine – Astoria Hotel – Old Room Keys – The Old Fashioned Way
Udine – Astoria Hotel Italia
Udine – Astoria Hotel Italia
Udine – Astoria Hotel Italia
Restaurants
The restaurants in Udine serve typical northern Italian fare, with some twists for Tyrolean and other close neighbors. It is a fairly cosmopolitan city and one can find Sushi and other worldly franchise food here, so selecting a place to eat should not be an issue.
Ristorante Pizzeria Al Gelso
This restaurant was right around the corner from our hotel, in fact, it is actually adjacent to it (without us knowing). We walked around the corner anyways and entered it from the garden seating direction each time, even though there was a main entrance on the main street. The food is excellent, all with that home-cooked taste, and there’s pizza for those who are unsure what they want, everyone likes pizza!
Ristorante Pizzeria Al Gelso – Front
Ristorante Pizzeria Al Gelso – Spaghetti al Ragu
Ristorante Pizzeria Al Gelso – Caprese Salad
Osteria Alla Ghiacciaia
A lazy and very relaxing restaurant right next to the canal, a perfect place for lunch or dinner.
Udine – Osteria Alla Ghiacciaia – Seating by the canal
We really enjoyed our lunch here, watching the darning-needles, or dragon-flies, flit back and forth over the stream. Although this restaurant becomes very busy for lunch, the service was especially good and punctual, so anyone having problems waiting (which is most common in Italy), it might be a place to visit. The food is very good, fresh and delicately spiced. We kept it simple, bean soup for a started, followed by salads, just to keep things a bit light.
Udine – Osteria Alla Ghiacciaia – Bean Soup
Udine – Osteria Alla Ghiacciaia – Patti
Udine – Osteria Alla Ghiacciaia – Erick
Trattoria Antica Maddalena
This trattoria has a bit of an upscale palette, with a menu and prices to match. As our last evening in Udine, we chose it for its high ratings and interesting looking menu. Unfortunately I forgot to take a photograph of the outside of the establishment, but have a few of the upstairs. You may want to book reservations if you want to sit outside, when we arrived the outside and downstairs seating were completely booked. So act early, if you want to enjoy this restaurant and its food with a street view!
Udine – Trattoria Antica Maddalena – Inside
Udine – Trattoria Antica Maddalena – Inside
Udine – Trattoria Antica Maddalena – Spaghetti with Garlic Cream Sauce, Peppers and Shrimp Tartare
Udine – Trattoria Antica Maddalena – Cheese, Eggplant and Spices Ravioli with Insalata Mista
We leave Udine as the endpoint in our latest trip, which has taken us from one part of Italy – Trieste, through Slovenia and a little bit of Austria, back to Italy and underrated Udine. Though we both ate too much, we really enjoyed this trip and had several surprises along the way, which made it all that more memorable.
Udine – Main Train Station
So, if you are ever on a train traveling east from Milan, perhaps to Venice, Austria or Slovenia, you may want to stop at Udine to see what it has to offer. We stopped on our way back and were not disappointed, we think you wont be either. Happy travels!
Nestled in the side of a cliff, at the face of a cave is the Predjama Castle in Predjama, Slovenia. The original castle is actually built in the cave, remains of which can still be seen. It was originally built by the knight Erasmus of Luegg, and was later destroyed in a siege by the Hapsburg when they attacked it as retribution. The castle that is there now was built later in 1570, and though it has been obviously renovated numerous time, it is as it would have appeared. It is therefore a castle within a castle.
Predjama Castle – Entrance to Castle
Predjama Castle – Outside of Castle
Legend has it, Erasmus was ostensibly killed when a large catapult rock smashed the bathroom he was sitting in at the time. Apparently betrayed by someone in the castle who knew when and where the knight was at all times.
The Outside Castle
Our tour guide also stated, that during its use after its 1570 reconstruction, there were two draw-bridges, one by the existing outside door you enter, and one connecting the outside castle to the one inside the cave.
Predjama Castle – Prison Cell
Predjama Castle – Torture Devices
Predjama Castle – Torture Chamber
Predjama Castle – Game Room
Predjama Castle – Dining Room
Predjama Castle – Kitchen
Predjama Castle – Castle Cliff Overhang
Predjama Castle – Stone Stairs
Predjama Castle – View from Outlook
Predjama Castle – Bedroom
Predjama Castle – Chapel
Predjama Castle – Chapel
Predjama Castle – Pastor’s Room
Predjama Castle – Walkways
Predjama Castle – Armory
Predjama Castle – Alarm Bell
Predjama Castle – Cannon Position
Predjama Castle – Nobles Room
Predjama Castle – Water Cask and Secret Floor Compartment
Predjama Castle – Empty Tomb
The Inside Cave Castle
The plan was, when the castle was attacked and broken into, the residence would run across the inside draw-bridge to the protection of the cave, which was well stocked with supplies, water and of course weapons, to defend themselves.
Predjama Castle – Another Cave Entrance
Predjama Castle – More Caves
Predjama Castle – Walkway
Predjama Castle – Flag
Predjama Castle – Cave Castle
Predjama Castle – Cave Castle Outlook
Predjama Castle – Cave Castle
Predjama Castle – Cave Castle
So, if you are in Bled or Ljubljana and looking for a day trip, you can probably visit this castle along with a tour of the Prostonja Cave. You can usually purchased a ticket for both, since they are associated with one another. We purchased our’s at the cave entrance, but you can probably purchase them at the castle entrance too.
Continuing our Summer Trip of eastern Italy and Slovenia, and after a two and a half hour train ride from Trieste, is the charming city of Ljubljana, Slovenia. Actually, much to my surprise, stepping off the train there was a noticeable cleanliness to it all which rarely, if ever, went away. We even noticed this in some of the more off-beat areas and in other towns, that we ventured to on our day trips.
The Slovenians are no doubt a very orderly, patient people. This can also be witnessed in their driving, since it is very rare, almost uncommon to hear the sound of a horn. When asked, “Why is this?”, most reply with the simple retort, “Well it’s simply rude, and in most cases, unnecessary.”
Ljubljana – The Main Train Station
Ljubljana, Lublana and Laybach
Ljubljana is a very old city, dating back to the twelfth and eleventh centuries, though a town called Emona stood here during Roman times. Myths and stories have linked it to Jason and the Argonauts and his struggles, and the killing of the great beast which inhabited the marsh nearby[1]This is where the metaphor of the dragon comes in., which apparently was responsible for the great floods that occurred frequently. It later became synonymous with Ljubljana in the mid-twelfth century.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Dragons Bridge
Bridges In Lubljana
There are several noteworthy bridges in the city, the Dragon Bridge, the Triple Bridge, the Cobbler’s Bridge and the Butcher’s Bridge. There are several others, however these are the ones we spent the most time on and are the most remarkable.
The Dragon’s Bridge
Due to the myth it is probably appropriate that the city have a dragon bridge, one not only to remember Jason’s deeds, but also the ever present danger of the river itself.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Dragons Bridge
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Dragons Bridge
The Triple Bridge
Not far from our hotel and adjacent to Prešeren Square is the Triple Bridge. It was originally one bridge, the central span, but as business and traffic increased the other two side bridges were added for pedestrian traffic.
Ljubljana – The Triple Bridge
Ljubljana – The Triple Bridge
The Cobbler’s Bridge
A quaint bridge that connects two important parts of the medieval city.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Cobblers Bridge
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Cobblers Bridge
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Patti on Cobblers Bridge
The Butcher’s Bridge
This bridge got its name, since it was near the place that the butchers of the city used to come and wash the carcasses of the animals. The blood and stench of rotting flesh this process brought down through the city must have been appalling. The practice was stopped soon after the residents had had enough of the smell. It is now decorated with locks and bronzes of mythological creatures.
Ljubljana – City Art – Bronze
Ljubljana – City Art – Bronze
Ljubljana – City Art – Bronze
Ljubljana – City Art – Bronzes
Castle Hill
There are two prominent hills in Ljubljana, the one that contains Tivoli Park and Castle Hill, which contains the Ljubljana Castle.
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Castle
Ljubljana Castle
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Castle – Tickets For Two
Perched above the city on the Castle Hill is the Ljubljana Castle. In 1679, Valvasor did an engraving of the Laybach Castle, as it was known in German at the time, showing the castle and many other landmarks of Lublana.[2]There are many spelling variations for this city, due to it being part of many different empires and countries throughout its history.
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Castle
Ljubljana – Ulica na Grad
Ljubljana – Castle Hill – Ulica na Grad
Ljubljana – From Castle Hill
Ljubljana – The Castle
Ljubljana – Climb to Castle
Ljubljana – From Castle Hill
Ljubljana – From Castle Hill
Ljubljana Castle – Puppet Museum
Ljubljana Castle – Puppet Museum
Ljubljana Castle – Puppet Museum
Ljubljana – From Castle Hill
Ljubljana – From Castle Hill
Ljubljana – From Castle Hill
Ljubljana – From Castle Hill
Ljubljana – Castle From Castle Tower
Ljubljana – Castle From Castle Tower
Ljubljana – Ljubljana and Castle From Castle Tower
Ljubljana – From Castle Tower
Ljubljana – From Castle Tower – Panorama
Ljubljana – From Castle Tower
Ljubljana – From Castle Tower
The Ljubljanica River
As it goes through the city the river is split into two. A major section goes directly through the old city, offering tourists the possibility of buying a ticket and traveling part of it, up to where it divides. The boats cannot venture too far however, since parts of the river are reserved for wildlife and cannot be entered.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River
Sitting at one of the many cafes along the waterway, one can wile away the afternoon sipping a drink and just watching the boats meander along.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – River Boats
Boat Tours
Both looking at the tour boats ply the water and actually taking a boat trip is both relaxing and very enjoyable. We decided one evening to take one and see where it actually goes and found it very interesting.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Boat Tour – Triple Bridge
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Boat Tour
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Boat Tour
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Boat Tour
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Boat Tour
Walking Tour Of The City
Here is a slideshow of some of the other sights in the city.
Ljubljana – Franciscan Church
Ljubljana – Prešeren Square
Ljubljana – Prešeren Square
Ljubljana – Prešeren Square
Ljubljana – Prešeren Square
Ljubljana – Zvezda Park
Ljubljana – Zvezda Park
Ljubljana – Ljubljana University
Ljubljana – Ljubljana University
Ljubljana – Ljubljana University
Ljubljana – Ljubljana University – Europa Fountain
Ljubljana – Ljubljana University
Ljubljana – Mestni Trg
Ljubljana – Mestni Trg
Ljubljana – Cafes along riverfront
Ljubljana – Robba Fountain
Ljubljana – Robba Fountain
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – The Vurnikoval House
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Drevored na Adamič-Lundrovem nabrežju – Portico by the Market
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Vodnik Monument
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Old Business Doorway
Ljubljana – Robba Fountain
Ljubljana – Mestni Trg
Ljubljana – Mestni Trg
Ljubljana – Herkulov vodnjak – Hercules Fountain
Ljubljana – Herkulov vodnjak – Hercules Fountain and Square
Ljubljana – Herkulov vodnjak – Hercules Fountain and Square
Ljubljana – Gornji Trg
Restaurants
Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
This is a traditional Slovenian restaurant, service many of the authentic dishes and also some non-Slovenian favorites, so anyone who visits can find something to eat. For us it was the traditional fried sausage, or Kranjska Klobasa with pickled turnips and roasted potatoes.
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant – Patti
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant – Fried Sausage with Pickled Turnips and Potatoes
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant – Hisna Gibanica
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Cantina Mexicana Restaurant
Ljubljana – Cantina Mexicana Restaurant –
The Cantina Mexicana is a very good mexican restaurant that features both Mexican and Tex-Mex cuisine. It wasn’t too difficult to find something appetizing among the enormous selection of food they offer in their menu.
Ljubljana – Cantina Mexicana Restaurant – Barbecued Chicken
Aside from the Adriatic Magnetic Anomaly, there is an additional one along the the Adriatic Coast that few know about, it’s called Piran.
Piran – View of the Town
I call it an anomaly, because one appears to have no other reasonable way of getting there except by car, which for Europe, one has to admit is very strange.[1]There are several other forms of transportation, but none of them go and return on the same day and almost all run irregularly.
Piran – A Day Trip From Trieste
After our Get Your Guide guide cancelled on us, we had to arrange a transfer through our hotel concierge using Taxi Trieste, in order to visit this town for one day. They were actually very good and came in under the amount quoted by the other service (160€ versus 198€), although in this case to be fair, it was just for the transfer and not an all-day stop-and-go tour.
Piran – Taxi Trieste – Perhaps the only way to get to Piran and back in one day
Piran The City
Piran is located on the Piran peninsula and juts out like a triangle into the Adriatic Sea, the Gulf of Piran to one side and the Gulf of Trieste to the other. One can immediately see that the city itself and its architecture have been strongly influenced by both the Venetians and the Hapsburgs (Austro-Hungarian Empire). The church towers have that Venetian look to them, as well as many of the houses and business structures outlining the Tartini Piazza.
Piran – The Streets
Piran – The Streets
Piran – The Streets – City Gate
Piran – The Streets
Piran – The Streets – City Clock
Piran – The Streets
Piran – The Streets
Piran – The Streets Going up to the wall
Piran – Owl Tile in Wall
Piran – The Town
Piran – The Old Church Saint Mary of Healing and the Lighthouse
Piran – The Old Church Saint Mary of Healing and the Lighthouse
Piran – Sculptor by the sea
Piran – At the point
Piran – The Old Church
Piran – Narrow Streets
Piran – Plaza of the First of May
Piran – Porto Campo – City Gate
Piran – Porto Campo – City Gate
Piazza Tartini
A small plaza that is adorned with a few bronze statues, all which center around the statue of Giuseppe Tartini, the composer and violinist. There are some restaurants, a few businesses and administrative buildings to compliment its surroundings. However, the marble in the middle of the piazza is quite new and shiny and would appear to be a slippery hazard during inclement weather, so be careful.
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Tartini Plaza – Giuseppe Tartini Statue – Violinist
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Interesting Architecture
The Town Wall
Remnants of the old town wall still exist and for a small sum, 3€ each, you may walk the section that is still open.
Piran – Steps leading to the city wall
Piran – The City Wall – Entrance
Piran – The City Wall – Patti on the wall
Piran – The City Wall – View of other section
Piran – The City Wall
Piran – The City Wall
There isn’t really that much to see, aside from its stone masonry and the views it affords to the surrounding area and town.
Piran – The City Wall – View
Piran – The City Wall – View Below
Piran – The City Wall – View of Piran
Piran – The City Wall – The Town Below
Piran – The City Wall – View of the Adriatic
The Church Of Saint George’s Parish
The church stands on the west side of the town on top of the hill overlooking the Gulf of Trieste. From its courtyard, Trieste can be seen in the distance, as well as Miramare Castle.
Piran – Saint George’s Church
Piran – Saint George’s Church
Restaurants
While here, we only had occasion to visit one restaurant for lunch, since we were due to be picked back up at one o’clock in the afternoon.
Ristorante Mestna Kavarna
A fusion of wine bar and restaurant, the Mestna Kavarna caters to most tastes. It offers many simple things, including salads and paninis, and of course wide selection of drinks. We found something to satisfy us before our ride arrived.
Before our time here was over, we still had several remaining places throughout Trieste in which to visit. Mainly the waterfront further down along the marina, a few piazzas, the XX September and the Victoria Lighthouse.
XX September
A beautiful avenue on which to shop, eat or just walk on a hot day (it is covered with trees, so there is plenty of shade). We found time to visit this street a few times, since the train and bus stations we use were more or less inline with it. See restaurants section for more information on possible places to eat.
Trieste – Fountain of the Two-Faced Janus
Trieste – More via XX September
Trieste – More via XX September – Flower Shop
If you are looking for something off-beat to eat, fast food or eclectic stores to shop, this is the street.
The Marina
There are several things to note at the marina, as well as the very large cruise ships that come into port on the weekends to visit. Though the Aquarium is closed for renovation, there are still shops and restaurants along this waterfront in which to enjoy.
Trieste – The Trieste Aquarium
Trieste – Riva Nazario Sauro – Along The Waterfront
Trieste – Statue of the Archduke Ferdinand Maximillian – Remember Miramare Castle?
Trieste – Eataly Store
Trieste – Marina and Lighthouse
The Muzio de Tommasini Park
Located very near the Piazza Oberdan is the park Muzio de Tommasini. A beautiful park with several bronze sculptors visitors can enjoy, awaits you here.
Trieste – Muzio de Tommasini Public Park
Trieste – Muzio de Tommasini Public Park
Trieste – Muzio de Tommasini Public Park
Trieste – Muzio de Tommasini Public Park
The Faro Della Vittoria Lighthouse
In order to reach the Faro della Vittoria lighthouse, you either have to drive, or take a taxi or bus, there is no train service to it.
Trieste – Tickets For Two – All Day Bus Tickets
Trieste – Piazza Oberdan – Main Bus Stop
Buses 42 and 44, from Piazza Oberdan, can take you here in twenty minutes for a modest fee of about one euro sixty. We purchased the all-day ticket for three euros each, which was actually cheaper, since it covered both going there and our return.
Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse
Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse
Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse
Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse
Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse
Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse
Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse – Observation Platform View
Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse – Observation Platform View
Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse – Observation Platform View
At over sixty meters in height, the lighthouse is one of the tallest in the world. Inside there is a small museum and the circular stairway that ascends to the first viewing deck, about fifty steps. Though we arrived during the weekend, the upper part of the lighthouse was no longer open.
Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse – Museum Inside
Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse – Museum Inside
Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse – Museum Inside
Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse – Bronze of the Lighthouse Top
Restaurants
Bella de Napoli
A small restaurant on XX September that serves Neapolitan fare is Bella Napoli. We stopped for lunch and had a very good meal for under forty euros.
Trieste – Bella Napoli – XX September
Trieste – Bella Napoli – XX September
Trieste – Bella Napoli – Spaghetti with Pancetta and Onion
From the Trieste Train Station it is possible to take a local or regional train for a day trip and visit the Castle of Miramare just north of the city. Tickets are available via the TrennItalia application, at the ticket counter or vending machines.
Miramare – Train Station
Miramare – Train Stop
On the walk to the train station we were able to stop and enjoy some of the monuments and fountains that we missed on our previous walks.
Before reaching the castle, there is a very beautiful park that surrounds it. Its shade was very welcome with temperatures reaching the mid 90s.
Miramare – Sign to Castle
Miramare – Miramare Castle Park
Miramare – Road to Miramare Castle Park
Miramare – Gate to Miramare Castle Park
Miramare – Patti in Miramare Castle Park
Miramare – Miramare Castle Park Map
Miramare – Miramare Castle Park
Miramare – Castle viewed from Miramare Castle Park trail
Miramare – Miramare Castle Park
Miramare – Miramare Castle
Miramare – Miramare Castle Park – Boy with Swan fountain
Miramare – Miramare Castle Park – Duck Pond
Miramare – Miramare Castle Park
Miramare – Miramare Castle Park – Entrance to Castle
Miramare – Miramare Castle Park – Duck Pond
Miramare – Miramare Castle Park – Duck Pond
The park is actually very well maintained. Undergrowth is allowed to grow where it should and well pruned in other areas. There are benches everywhere, so feel free to sit down and enjoy the quiet while you can, birds and cicadas notwithstanding.
Miramare Castle
Miramare Castle – Tickets For Two
The Miramare Castle was built in the mid eighteen hundreds by Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximillian and his wife. The castle is rather small, but fits well into the coastline and has some interesting internal features, including a Chinese Room.
Miramare – Miramare Castle
Miramare – Miramare Castle
Miramare – Miramare Castle
Miramare – Miramare Castle
Miramare – Miramare Castle
Miramare – Miramare Castle
Miramare – Miramare Castle
Miramare – Miramare Castle
Miramare – Miramare Castle
Miramare – Miramare Castle
Miramare – Miramare Castle
Miramare – Miramare Castle
Miramare – Miramare Castle
Miramare – Miramare Castle
Miramare – Miramare Castle
Miramare – Miramare Castle
Miramare – Miramare Castle
Miramare – Miramare Castle
Miramare – Miramare Castle – Gulf of Trieste
Miramare – Miramare Castle – Garden
Miramare – Miramare Castle – Garden
Miramare – Miramare Castle
Restaurants
A short walk north on the path down to Grignano will bring you to the marina where several restaurants are located. We chose Tavernetta al Molo for lunch and were not disappointed.
Tavernetta al Molo
Grignano – Travernetta al Molo
A small establishment by the marina that has a good menu, including daily seafood specials, drinks and desserts. We spent about two hours eating, relaxing and enjoying a rest during a very hot day.
Grignano – Travernetta al Molo
Grignano – Patti at Travernetta al Molo
Grignano – Travernetta al Molo – Grilled Tuna, Potato and Tomato
Grignano – Travernetta al Molo – Spaghetti in Lobster Sauce
On our second day in Trieste we thought it appropriate to check out some local churches, visit the amazing fortress perched above the city and then visit the Grand Canal for lunch.
Trieste – The Grand Canal – Church of Sant’Antonio Nuovo
The Hill of San Giusto
A few blocks walk from our hotel and situated in the center of the old city is the hill of San Giusto, or Saint Justus. The following interesting sights can be seen by planning a day trip to see them all, with ample time for breaks and lunch!
Churches, Basilicas and Cathedrals
Trieste has a plethora of churches of all Christian faiths to visit. The following are noteworthy and some are actually no longer active nor Catholic.
The Basilica of San Silvestro
The oldest church in Trieste, built in the twelfth century in Romanesque style, it contains many fourteenth century frescoes. It was closed when the Austro-Hungarian Empire conquered the area and converted into a church of Waldensians.
Trieste – Basilica San Silvestro
The Church of Santa Maria Maggiore
Currently owned by the region of Trieste, this once proud church was also a barracks and a prison. Now it is just a false collection place for Catholics dropping euros to light candles.
Trieste – Church Santa Maria Maggiore
Trieste – Church Santa Maria Maggiore
Trieste – Church Santa Maria Maggiore
Trieste – Church Santa Maria Maggiore
The Cathedral of San Giusto
Situated on the San Giusto hill and the via della Cathedral is the cathedral of San Giusto, also known as the Trieste Cathedral. The cathedral is home to some very impressive bells and for a modest sum, one can visit them after climbing the 90 or so steps in the bell tower.
Trieste – Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Trieste – Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Ascending the bell tower also reveals an interesting secret, it is not one structure built for the purpose of worship, but rather three.
Trieste – Roman Reliefs in the Tower of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Trieste – Roman Reliefs in the Tower of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Evidence of its ancient roots can be found while climbing the stairs and its history can be found written in the books of the gift shop or other history books.
Trieste – Tower of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Trieste – Tower Stairs of the Tower the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Trieste – Bells of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Trieste – Bells of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Adjacent to the cathedral is the Roman Propylaea. The view from the bell tower offers a great chance to see that layout of this important Roman structure from above.
Trieste – View from the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Trieste – Roman Propylaeum or Columns of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
Trieste – Roman Propylaeum or Columns of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire
The Castle of San Giusto
On this impressive hill and a short walk away from the Roman Propylaea and Cathedral also stands a castle, which was built on top of ancient remains of older castles.
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Tickets for Two
It has both an impressive armory museum and a Lapidary, which contains a myriad of ancient mosaic tiles and other artifacts.
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Entrance
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Map of Trieste
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – The Cathedrale
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – The Armory
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – The Armory
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Fireplace
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Elaborate Doorway
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Ramparts
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary – Mosaics
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary – Statues
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary – Statues and Reliefs
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary – Lintels
Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary – Mosaics
Trieste Grand Canal
Being a port city, there are several things to see by the water, the Grand Canal is probably the first thing you will notice. It is actually a very nice place to have lunch, since there are a number of restaurants and cafes along the via Vincenzo Bellini, or the street where the Grand Canal is located.
Trieste – The Grand Canal – Church of Sant’Antonio Nuovo
Trieste – The Grand Canal – Restaurants
Trieste – The Grand Canal – Looking toward the Sea
Trieste – The Grand Canal – Boats
Trieste – The Grand Canal
Bronze Statues
There are several bronzes throughout the city, most celebrating famous individuals who have lived here for a time. Here are a few.