Gruss Gott! This is the customary greeting when you visit Austria. Though many speak English here, they will still use this greeting upon meeting you. So, become an Austrian for a day and smile and say it back, it’s easy.
Nestled in the heart of Carinthia is its capitol, Klagenfurt am Wörthersee. Though at first a bit abstract and hard to get a feel for it, after a few days stay and talking to the people in their own language, we have actually become very comfortable with this happy little city. It is quite open at the moment showing little affects of the pandemic, though one can see the occasional store closed (though it might not be related.)
The Capitol’s Main Sights
There are of course several sites here to see, some religious, some governmental and others historic. The best way to show this is a quick slide show, since there really is no better way to cover so much succintly.
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Lindwurmbrunnen
An interesting Brunnen, or fountain, is the Lindwurnbrunnen in Neuer Platz. This fountain is actually central to the fable or history of the creation of Klagenfurt.
Lindwurmbrunnen
Fable Inscription
The inscription tells some of the tale in a very abbreviated form. The actual fable or story unfolded more like the following.
A Lindwurm once lived in the swamp around Klagenfurt. The river that flows through the city often flooded. This threatened travelers and city dwellers and a Dragon was thought to be the cause of these floods. It was actually a Lindworm. The Duke offered a reward for which some men tied a bull to a chain and offered it to the Lindwurm. When it took the bate, it was hooked and then swiftly killed.
Wörtherseemandl
The Wörtherseemandl is a small tourist attraction close to the sister city pavement marker. I do not think there is much meaning behind it, other than a piece of art that someone created for the city.
Restaurants
We visited only two restaurants while in the city proper, one was Italian, which will not be covered since it is not Austrian. Though if you are ever in the city and looking for Italian food there are several restaurants around.
Haus am Markt
The HAM, or the Haus am Markt restaurant is typical Austrian, or more precisely Carinthian food.
Haus am Markt
Haus am Markt – Ummm Bier
Haus am Markt – Hühnersuppa mit Fadenknödeln
Haus am Markt – Wiener Schnitzel and Fries with Currant Sauce
A small clip of the Oom-pa Two Person band we enjoyed while eating, how Austrian!
We go next to the actual Wörthersee for a special day and boat trip on the lake. So stay tuned! Auf Wiedersehen!
Arriving over the weekend with the expectation of finding few, if any tourist in Venice, we were pleasantly surprised. Apparently, we have beaten the rush to see some remarkable tourist spots, without all the international hords.
Venice Train Station – Platforms Empty
Hotel NH Collection Venezia Palazzo Barocci
We chose this four star hotel for its location to the Grand Canal and a pier for the Vaporettos, or ferries, that connect all of the islands together. We were not disappointed, it definitely has all the access we were looking for along with other comforts, amenities and conveniences we wanted, plus it’s very quiet.
NH Collection Venezia Palazzo Barocci
Patti enjoying the evening
Our balcony
Our balcony
Piazza San Marco
Usually abuzz with activity, this square or piazza is usually crowded during this time of year, with countless tourists. We have been fortunate to be here at this time, while the rest of the world struggles with how to cope with their outbreaks.
The view from the end of the island, just down from Santa Maria, is amazing.
Panoramic View of Part of the Grand Canal and Piazza San Marco
Caffè Florian
Established in 1720, Cafe Florian is arguably the oldest cafe in the world. It was amazing to sit and enjoy a drink in an establishment, that frankly is older than my own country.
Patti in Caffè Florian
Caffè Florian’s ceilings and walls
Erick in Caffè Florian
Pastor Saverio Le Forcole
The old art of carving and developing individual forcole for Venetian gondola rowers goes way back and is passed down from master to apprentice after a lengthy teaching process. Pastor Saverio is one of four masters still performing his art on the island.
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If you are ever in Venice you should look him up. He speaks English and is willing to talk to anyone who has questions about his art and how it is used. You can probably spend hours doing just that, but he does have to work, so keep that in mind.
Okay, enough for now, we are here for the entire week and will probably post more once we get a few moments of down time. Next stops are the other islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello.
The tiny seaside city of Rapallo is remarkable in many ways, as a port, as a main stop on the Pisa to Genova train line, as a city that has many ancient Roman, Etruscan and other historical features, and as a tourist point of interest; where one can just relax and enjoy the sun while eating great Ligurian food.
The Hotel Astoria Rapallo
The Hotel Astoria Rapallo – 1903
We began our stay checking into the four star Hotel Astoria Rapallo along via Antonio Gramsci. Built in 1903 in the Victorian Liberty Villa style, it is well taken care of by its current owner and management couple, who cheerfully greeted us as we entered. The views from our seaside room were what we imagined, as were the cooling breezes that ran through the room when we open all the windows, clean and refreshing. Even though they come equipped with air-conditioning, it is always nice to open the windows to get fresh air, especially in the early morning.
Rapallo is an active port for fishing, leisure and travel (via ferry or other means to destinations along the coast.) Unfortunately, while we were here, the ferries were still not running, due to the restrictions in place on account of the virus. So, we were not able to visit Portofino as we had hoped.
The Historic Center
As with all older cities of any size, Rapallo has a historic center, albeit small, which one can wander through to shop or to catch a meal.
The only remaining gate of the ancient city walls is the Port of Salt, or Porta della Saline.
Porta della Saline
There are of course plenty of narrow and inviting streets in the old town that suck you in with their capillory action.
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Hannibals Bridge
Built in the second century, the ancient bridge from the Roman period, called Hannibals Bridge, can still be seen and enjoyed. Though cordoned off to travel, it still is an imposing and impressive sign of the Roman’s architectural and construction abilities.
Hannibals Bridge Span
Hannibals Bridge Garden
Hannibals Bridge with Flowers
Hannibals Bridge Gated
The Castle Of Rapallo
Anyone looking out into the gulf will sooner or later notice the small castle sitting off the coast directly in front of the traffic circle (or roundabout), Piazza Giovanni Battista Pastene. This is the Castello di Rapallo, an old castle built in the 1550s in response to attacks by Turkish pirates. It is still in fairly good shape, but while we where there, temporarily closed due to Covid restrictions and construction in the vicinity.
Castello di Rapallo
Castello di Rapallo
The Brotherhood Of White
A Brotherhood of White, also known as the Great White Brotherhood and the Universal White Brotherhood, has a sect or presence in the city. In a part of the historic center, a structure exists that apparently houses this old eighteenth century order of people of enlightenment. The signs are there, if you are looking for them.
Order Of The White BrotherhoodSign Of The Great White Brotherhood
The Gulf Of Tigullio
The Gulf of Tigullio is very large and extends from Portofino to Zoagli. It is always nice to walk along the Port of Rapallo in the early morning or in the evenings to enjoy the fresh air and beauty of the gulf itself. There are many inlets, bays and coves that one can explore along the way, some with road access, others a bit more difficult.
The Gulf Of Tigullio And The Ligurian Hills
Rapallo To Montallegro
The cable car from Rapallo to Montallegro and back is a treat. Though some might consider it an expensive treat, at 8€ a piece for a round trip; we thought it a fair deal. The views in and of themselves are more than worth the ticket price. There is not only a basilica waiting for you at the top, but also a restaurant with amazing views of the city and surrounding countryside.
There is a cafe, bar and restaurant some ten or so minutes walk from behind the basilica. It is not only the start of one of the hiking trails that wanders through the area, but also provides an excellent view of the gulf and port of Rapallo. Since the cable car runs every thirty minutes or so, we took advantage and spent an hour here, taking on refreshment and admiring the view while enjoying the cool air coming up the mountain slopes.
The Path to the Restaurant
The Path to the Restaurant
The Restaurant Entrance
Outside Seating With Overlook
The View From Our Table
Another View
Cable Car From Montallegro Back To Rapallo
Here are a few videos of our trip back down the mountain. If you are ever there, a word of caution for those with any fear of heights, you will be suspended very high in the air. It may not be for everyone, unless you maintain your look inside the car on ascent and likewise on the return.
A rather active port on the Ligurian Coast is the port of La Spezia. Not typically known as a tourist hot-spot, it is noted for several museums, churches and other sites worth seeing, if you visit. With one day in our itinerary to investigate, I came away with the opinion that if you have other things in your own itinerary to see, then it’s probably not worth a stop. There are plenty of old city centers around and this one was rather unremarkable.
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As can be noted by some of the photographs above, this port is heavily used by the Italian Cruise Lines and Navy. While here, we noticed several cruise ships moored, since their use is restricted during the virus outbreak. The port is also heavily used by commercial fisherman, as well as leisure craft. The city is very walkable, especially down by the water where they have a very excellent Lungomare.
That is all for La Spezia, our next stop is Rapallo, about thirty minutes North of Moneglia, via Sestri Levante. Another port town, but more for leisure craft and very close to Santa Margherita. Our Ligurian journey continues…
On the beautiful Ligurian coast, about a half an hour train ride from Moneglia, is the rather large town Chiavari. This is a port town with a large number of boats, which it is probably more noted for, than its beaches.
The Lungomare And Its Protective Jetties
If you meander your way to the lungomare from the train station and sit on any one of the many benches the city has provided, you will hear the surf pounding the rocks. After a short while, you will probably wonder if this would be a city at all without the large rocks and jetties that protect it, and you would probably be right. This city directly faces the Ligurian and Mediterranean Seas and takes their full force when they are angry.
A City Of Porticos
Like Turin, this medieval city was built in the 13th century and contains many portico, upon which buildings were erected and the residents below were protected from the elements. It has a population of roughly twenty-five to twenty-eight thousand residents, depending on what figures you trust.
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The city also sports a very nice piazza where the daily market is held. We had gotten there just after they had finished for the day and were in the process of cleaning up.
The Market Of Piazza Mazzini
The city is repleat with stores and high-end shops in the historic part, so there is plenty of places to window-shop or even take in the typical afternoon caffe. Here are a few last views of this city that we took along the way while strolling its streets with our guest for the day.
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In order to get to Chiavari from Moneglia, a change of trains is in order in Sestri Levante. Though we had a short wait, around twelve minutes, it did not lengthen our trip too much. Therefore, this city currently is part of the Savona to Sestri Levante trainline, which may change in the future if more travel restrictions are lifted, so always go to the TrennItalia website for up to date information.
Pizzeria Il Ciocco
Probably one of the best surprises of the day was the Pizzeria Il Ciocco. After a larger than normal lunch in Chiavari, we were looking for something quick, and on the lighter side. We decided on pizza and found this little place a hundred meters down the street.
The Salumaria
The Four Greats – Expresso, Red Wine, Profiterole And Sambuca
The owner’s son speaks very good English, so we were able to order easily and learn it is a true mom-and-pop shop. Since 1997 they have been making pizza in Moneglia the old fashion way, using the traditional wood fire method and secret recipies. What other way is there to make real pizza in Italy?
Erick Waiting For His Pizza
Patti And The Open Hearth
All I can say is it was fantastic. This place is high on our list to revisit, and I am not even a real pizza fan. I am afraid if my son Dana comes in here he may never leave.
Having the benefit of staying in such a small town for a little more than a week, gives one the flexibility of being bored and looking for things to do. Of course I say this from the perspective of retirement and our slow travel mentality, where it’s all about kicking back, taking it easy and having the time to actually get to know a place, instead of driving through it to claim, “I was there!”
The Lungomare Dante Alighieri – Moneglia
The Leisurely Stroll
An often overlooked, under-used method of relaxation, that I might add is rarely used in the States, is the stroll. In fact, the lack of use of this word in the common venacular there, or everyday speech, testifies to the American’s reluctance to actually taking one. Americans are often too busy and too self-absorbed to consider a nice, long, uncomplicated relaxing walk. If you stay long enough in Moneglia, or probably any city or coastal town in Italy, you should take one of these, they can be mind clearing experiences. The Germans have an excellent word for it, schlendern, to stroll or amble and when correctly pronounced, actually sounds relaxing. The Italians however, probably invented it with their passeggiata, which actually means a bit more, but is still actively practiced today.
Our stroll along the Lungomare was relaxing in the extreme. The surf, which was fairly rough at the time, was pounding the coast. Where the beach was lined with stones, one could hear the strange and unusual sound of the rocks clacking against one another as the water washed over them and drew them back toward the sea. Add to that the perfect temperature, somewhere in the low seventies, and a stiff breeze, and you have all the ingredients for a great walk.
The Tower Of Villafranche
Along the Lungomare is the Tower or Fortress of Villafranche, or what is called today the Parco Castello di Villafranca, a broken down remnant of an old fort that is no longer used nor kept up. It has signs that it had been taken cared for until recently. Now it just appears to be a memory destined to fall back into the hillside from which it arose.
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There are still some interesting things inside to see, nooks and crannies, here and there. The outside is more or less a maze of unmaintained stairs and paths. A good place for a relaxing picnic lunch, to read a book or just relax and unwind; there are some benches where one can sit and enjoy the sound of the waves and the horizon.
Ristorante Bistrot Julia
The restaurant Bistrot Julia is a small, unassuming place that is not much on menu, but definitely big on taste. This place, during normal times, would be crowded, so get reservations if you are planning a visit, we just happen to be fortunate enough to enjoy it in a more relaxed state.
Bistrot Julia – Outside
Bistrot Julia – Inside
Patti Having A Good Time
Erick Waiting For Steak
Based on a rating we found to be rather high on the internet, we decided to give it a try. Having not had a very good steak in a while, we were both surprised to find a Tomahawk Steak for two on the menu. It took some discussion with our waitress and all of two seconds to make up my mind what I wanted to order. After a very short negotiation with Patti, our wine and steak were ordered.
Bacalla Appetizer
Our Tomahawk – Cooked And Cut
Chocolate Cake With Raspberry Sauce
Needless to say, when a chef does not give you a choice on how you want your meat cooked and it comes out looking like this, you know you are in for a good meal. Paired with a very good local Nebbiolo, the steak and potatoes went down with very little argument. Our appetizers were Baccala on crushed vinegared olives, also very good. We would both highly recommend a stop at Bistrot Julia, if you are ever in Moneglia. First rate food at a fairly good price. They also will dispense wine from any unopened bottle of wine they have, as long as it’s under 24€. A fine enticement to get you to try new wines not necessarily served by the glass and you only pay for what you drink. With our steak, priced at 6€/hg (hectogram), and coming in around one kilo we walked out with a 97€ bill. Some might say that a bit steep, but I have paid far more in the States for steak and dinners for two as a whole and they were no where near as good. Enjoy!
Glasgow seems a nice enough city, but it appears to have a jumble of architectural styles, like the city planners are convinced the city belongs to the future and not the past. This is evident in many structures and facilities, including the universities that exist within the city, they are very modern in appearance. However, this causes a clash with any older, existing structures that are clearly from the eighteenth and nineteeth centuries.
Glasgow Central Station
Glasgow Central Station – Central Station Hotel Entrance
The Glasgow Central Train Station however has, in my opinion, been successful in melding the old with the new.
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Otherwise, Glasgow is like many other European cities, with a central pedestrian street for shopping, surrounded by other ancillary avenues and alleys for other mom and pop shops to sell their wares.
The Glasgow Cathedral
The cathedral is amazing, it is very long inside, in two sections, one with pews the other without, and free to the public.
The Glasgow Cathedral
Oddly enough, for no admission is actually has quite a lot to see. There is another section behind what we normally be the choir screen that contains additional relics and pieces that have been collection from former churchs on this site, some due to earlier renovations.
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The Glasgow Necropolis
As its name would imply, there is a very large cemetery behind the cathedral, sitting atop a hill overlooking Glasgow.
Glasgow Necropolis
Glasgow Necropolis
Though not much to see, unless of course you majored in history, specifically Glasgow history, it is a nice place to enjoy a quiet walk on an autumn day.
Glasgow Botanical Gardens
Tickets for Two – Subway to Botanical Gardens
The gardens can be reached from the city center by taking the underground or subway. By taking the inner ring you will exit about two blocks from the gardens. However, if you take the outer ring, not to worry, the subway makes a complete circle, so just by staying on you will enventually reach your destingation.
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Here is a short slide show of what can be seen, without captions.
From Inverness we headed to Aberdeen, which is on the eastern coast of the country. Along the way we took a minor detour to visit one of the famous distilleries in the area, The Mcallan.
The Mcallan distillery visitor center has been designed by a well-known architect and completely modernized. Though the building itself blends well with the country-side, the walkway seems a bit odd, made out of shiny marble instead of perhaps a nice sandstone to match better. I suppose they we going for the rich look in the end, instead of a more environmental one.
Aberdeen
The town itself is rather unremarkable, being noted for its grey granite appearance, it’s no wonder it mixes well with the cold, damp weather and Scotch whiskey.
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There are exceptions of course, some of the side streets are rather nice to stroll down, although you will never get that quaint, old, medieval look and feel.
Our Hotel – The MarinerThe Mariner Restaurant
We did not venture far to eat, except for lunch, since town was a good fifteen to twenty-minute walk from our hotel. So, we ate our lunches out and each night at the hotel, which offered a good mix of fare. All in all, the accommodations were more than adequate, with only some minor inconveniences (e.g. no elevator, but it was only one floor). They do provide a generous parking lot and free parking.
The Dunnottar Castle
Unfortunately, I have to say, the high point of our trip to Aberdeen was on our departure and visit to the Castle of Dunnottar. Please enjoy the un-captioned slide show below of our visit there.
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I will not say much else about it, other than the views are quite stunning, if you happen to have good weather. You are free to walk the grounds and there are hiking trails nearby and into the town of Stonehaven. The castle itself is worth the 7£ entry fee, since it is quite extensive and very well-kept.
And to top it off, a small video of the tempestuous North Sea.
A three-hour drive from Edinburgh will bring you through the center of Scotland and The Highlands, here at the end of Loch Ness sits Inverness.
Inverness – Ness Bridge
Inverness
The city itself in October has a strange feel about it, reminiscent of an upstate New York town, think Hudson or Catskill. Though statistics say otherwise, one would think it in decline, or an area that perhaps saw better times.
The people on the other hand are very friendly and seem very comfortable with tourists.
Inverness – Our Hotel – The Glenmoriston
Inverness – The River Ness
Inverness – Ness Bridge
Inverness – At Night
Loch Ness
In order to see the Loch Ness from Inverness you have to travel 15 to 30 minutes southwest on the A82. Along this road there are several places to stop and take photographs.
Loch Ness – Erick
A bit further on you will find the lazy hamlet of Drumnadrochit and the CastleUrquhart sitting on the lake.
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To enter the castle grounds it cost us around 10£ per person, with a senior discount (60+). A fair price for the ruins and direct access to the lake. And yes, there be NO monsters here!
Loch Ness Centre & Exhibition
This is an exhibit on the scientific evidence and history around the Loch Ness monster. Well worth the money, I found it informative and fairly well done. You can even read all the newspaper articles about the hoax or in some cases what may be called a misunderstanding of what people think they saw.
We arrived last evening in Scotland, traveling from Winchester through London’s Kings Cross station to Edinburgh’s Waverly station, counting on (according to a well-known phone app) an easy twelve-minute walk to our hotel. And what did we immediately face upon exiting the train station? Steps, hills and a steep ascent!
A Close in Edinburgh
Edinburgh is hilly, very hilly. In fact, one may say almost bizarre in its construction. It is as though the city has two levels, one for the upper crust, one for the lower crust. And they only mix via a series of stairways, inclines and closes (apparently an old Scottish term to small back alleyways with or without stairs that can be closed off or guarded after dark).
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Amazing as this all sounds, Edinburgh does have some interesting things to see and experience. Musicians, for example. I am not sure if they are actual Scots, but they are dressed up in full garb and playing the bagpipes.
One can also say the city is a bit blighted, as one may call it, by the plague of construction and reconstruction going on all over the United Kingdom. It would seem that the government here has seen fit that some things should not fall down. It does happen to mess up one’s attempt at a good photograph though!
More Construction and Reconstruction – Enjoy
The Edinburgh Castle
Built on a rocky precipice, or crag, and overlooking the city is the Edinburgh Castle.
Edinburgh Castle
It is adjoined to the city via the Royal Mile, a street with shops, monuments and other stores that lead back to the ancient city.
Castle Overview – Towards City
The castle is a great thing to see and has many rooms and other historical artifacts that one can enjoy. Notwithstanding, the views of Edinburgh and the harbor are magnificent.
Castle Overview – Toward Harbor
Many of the exhibits displayed in the castle have, of course, a military overtone. Which unfortunately in many cultures, clouds and even colors our view of the past. In some cases making it more romantic than it actually was.
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The above slide show is provided to give some appreciation to the myriad of military displays and exhibits one can find in the castle.
St. Margarets Church
St. Margarets Church – The Altar
St. Margarets Church
One jewel amongst all this military might is Saint Margaret’s Church. A quaint little abode which eventually fell within the confines of the castle. It is the oldest structure within the surrounding area and is still used today, although it had many uses in the past.
Greyfriars
If you are looking for more churches or cemeteries, there is Greyfriars. Not far from our hotel, it has some lovely grounds on which you can walk, if you are looking for that nice quiet afternoon stroll.
Greyfriars Bobby
Right across the street from Greyfriars, is the bar and restaurant, Greyfriars Bobby. Named after the dog who ostensibly stood over his master’s grave for fourteen years after he died, the restaurant offers typical Scottish fare, as well as food for tourist (e.g. hamburgers, fries, etc.)
Greyfriars Bobby
Greyfriars Bobby – Inside
Greyfriars Bobby – Dessert Menu
Greyfriars Bobby – Heart Attack Dessert – 12 yr. Mcallans Double Cask Gold with Cranachan (Typical Scottish Dessert)
Greyfriars Bobby – Patti
Greyfriars Bobby – Erick
History Walks and Ghost Tours
Mercat Tours
Mercat Tours holds a fairly good tour of the underground caverns, called History Walk and Ghost Tours.
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Though a bit long and having questionable facts, well we are talking ghosts, it was fairly well presented, entertaining and reasonably priced at 13£ per person. And although it was a bit dark down there, we had a good time anyways.
The Real Mary King’s Close Tour
Again, a tour that takes not only below, but above-grounds as well, to show the terrible living conditions in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. Unfortunately, this tour does not allow for photographs, its history is a bit more vague, but it does have a more elaborate Close tour layout and exhibits. If I were to pick one, I would probably pick this one, though it definitely has a more obvious touristy quality to it. The ticket will run you around 16 to 20£ per person, children are less.
The Edinburgh City Museum
This museum is free, except for what ever special exhibits they are having at the time. There is a special floor and area for these and the tickets can be purchased on the ground floor.
City Museum – Ground Floor – Grand Atrium
We found the first and third floors to be the most informative. Favoring the Life Sciences, Astronomy and Scottish history above the other areas.
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For a rainy afternoon, and there are many in Scotland, a very good choice to learn something and stay dry. It’s actually very good for families since there are numerous hands-on exhibits for children to interact with and learn.
Tomorrow it’s off again, this time to Inverness. We are just hoping for a moderation in the weather for good travels. Till then, later..!
