Tag: italy

Our plans for visiting Cinque Terre were for spending most of our time in Monterosso, which we felt was the more livable town, and visit the other four. First, Vernazza by hiking to it from Monterosso, then taking the train and by-passing the subject towns to have lunch in Riomaggiore.  Subsequently, taking the train indirectly back to Monterosso by way of the other two smaller towns quickly in the afternoon.  This means that even with an approximately two-hour hike in the morning to Vernazza, you too can visit all the towns this way too!

Manarola

Manarola being a smaller town has few things to do, but its a colorful little town and is busy with activity.

Manarola will also remind you that it’s still a working fishing port, or that’s what they want you to believe at least.  As you head toward the old port you will increasingly come across boats that have been dragged up from the shore and stored along the street sides.

Of course there is always the sea to visit and a short walk down to the seaside is a must.

If you have to eat in Manarola we can definitely suggest the old Cinque Terre Gelateria, they have gelato, unlike some others we have come across (and there is bad tourist gelato around), that is just amazing.

Corniglia

After jumping on the train again we found ourselves in the last of the five towns, Corniglia.

This town has the dubious distinction of having four hundred plus steps to reach it from the train station.  While my wife Patti and daughter Ericka decided it was a bit too hot to attempt to summit our last town, I took on the challenge.

In the baking heat, and it was reaching low to mid 90’s each day here, before you even reach the stairs you are, shall we say, uncomfortable.

The stairs are well-kept and there is some shade along the way where you can rest.  Since I am no longer in my twenties, I availed myself of the shade twice (before I blew a blood vessel or suffered a stroke).  Fortunately when you reach the top the town has strategically placed a fountain where one can top off their bottle of water (thank you!).  If you continue you will quickly realize by the signs that you have gone the wrong way and you will meet the customary trail signs to the next town.  Turning around you should notice the town and your mistake.

Getting to the center requires a little navigation, but you will eventually pop out close to the town center and where the bus stop is.  Even climbing the steps and taking several short breaks I was still able to beat my wife and daughter to the town center, but I admit that was on a busy touristy day!

Climbing the stairs to the right of this church yields an uncomprimising view of the water.

…and that just about sums up our visit to Cinque Terre.  Though a lot of traveling is involved, walking, hiking, climbing and sittings on buses and trains it is more a less worth it.  However, one can also make the argument that it is a bit of a manufactured tourist trap and part of an industry to help the locals out and/or inconvenience them, some times its difficult to tell.  We leave that thought for the reader to consider before visiting.

In order to enter the park for hiking between the towns, you have to purchase tickets. These will give you trail access and can be purchased at the National Park Service counter at the train station.

These same tickets give you complete shuttle bus and train service between the five towns as well. Even if you don’t hike, this is probably your best travel option at 16€ per person.

We took the train from Vernazza to Riomaggiore and in order to get to the town center, you must walk through a tunnel.

The main street looks similar to the other towns, perhaps with a bit more vertical pitch.

The climb up to the castle is a bit long and on a hot day can be somewhat oppressive.

You cannot miss it, there is a big clock on it!

There are benches and an overlook to the right, once you reach the top.

If you are looking for narrow stairways or alleys, there are plenty of those to explore. After our long hike and short train ride, we actually ate lunch here as well and can recommend Veciu Muin.

Our visit to the Cinque Terre starts with Monterosso, our home base for this adventure in food, wine, hiking and sightseeing.

We arrived here via the Inter-city train from Turin, our home town. A leisurely ride of about two hours, which to us is much better than driving and stress-free. Our hotel is the 3 star Hotel Margherita, which provides spartan, clean and adequate accomodations in the heart of town, with breakfast included, for more than a fair price (it’s also air-conditioned).

The seaside is amazing and provides both free public beach and paid accomodations and access for those willing to pay more; including cafe delivery to your chair. Even though a tourist destination itself, it’s big enough to more than handle the influx of tourists, one of the main reasons we chose it.

The town of course is very colorful and will remind some of the brightly painted styles of Bermuda and the Caribbean. The town also grows flowers everywhere!

You are free to wander about as you like, there are few impediments. However,  if you venture too far, as in the other towns of Cinque Terre, you will run out of real estate quickly or face a stair climb that leads you nowhere.

It is all worth it though for the great views and fabulous Italian cuisine, especially the seafood. As one can imagine being next to the sea, octopus and shrimp, as well as daily fish is on every menu. There are of course the regional favorites and pasta is always on the menu. For wine, there are many local favorites, including one from Cinque Terre itself, which was served at the bar of our hotel for 5€ a glass and is very good. One can always find other great wines, including Amarones.   So wine with dinner is always no problem.

The above is the town from the start of the Nature Preserve hiking trail to Vernazza. More on hiking and the other towns in this pentagonous coastal favorite later…