Alberobello, Italy – Truly, Trulli Odd

Alberobello, Italy – Truly, Trulli Odd

Before I went to Alberobello, I had never heard of a Trullo house and I must say I find them rather odd. To me, they just appear as though they are a bit small and perhaps uncomfortable inside. But I guess it’s what you get used to in life.

How To Get There

From Bari the easiest way to get there is by the TrennItalia website, application or buying a ticket at the station. The bus arrives in front of the DOK supermarket on the back side of the train station, so from town you will have to use the underground train station passage to get to the bus stop, it is across the street of Via Giuseppe Capruzzi. The cost is minimal, 2€ per person each way. You may hear them referred to as the TrulliBus, but if you ask anyone locally they will be confused by your question. So use the destination name of Alberobello and there will not be any confusion.

It arrives in Alberobello at that city’s train station and it is about a fifteen to twenty minute walk to the houses.

Alberobello

When one first sees a Trullo house one’s first impression might be that it is a rather strange place to live. However, there are other precedents in other cultures. Alberobello contains many such examples of these houses, now converted toward the tourists industry.

The Trullo House

Initially developed by farmers and herders as a temporary place to stay while performing their tasks. However, once learned that they could be used as a tax dodge, the Italians in the area converted them to more permanent residential building, while forgoing the need to pay their taxes.

Restaurants

During the off season there are limited restaurants for lunch, so plan accordingly. However, there are a few that open all year.

Terra Mossa Ristorante Pizzeria

The Terra Mossa Ristorante Pizzeria was our second pick, but we happen to go there because it opened a half an hour earlier than our original pick.

Located on Via Indipendenza, 4, it is a totally modern establishment and able to handle large crowds and tour groups. There were two visiting while we were eating and we did not experience any change in our service. The food is very good and they have English speakers, due to their location in a tourist area. It is prices slightly on the high side, but if you don’t go nuts two people can eat a fair lunch for around 40€.

Polignano A Mare, Italy – Seaside Perch

Polignano A Mare, Italy – A Seaside Perch

The small seaside town of Polignano A Mare is perched upon cliffs overlooking the Adriatic Sea. It is believed to be the ancient Greek town of Neapolis, or new city, but this has never been confirmed by archaeological research.

The town is a five minute train ride from Monopoli and about thirty minutes away from Bari to the north. A variety of trains run rather often, with the regional (R) trains taking a bit longer to reach their destinations. We always try to use the regional fast (RV) trains when we are able.

The draw for this ancient town and its historic center are the grottos and cliffs that line the seaward side of the town. Noted for cliff diving and other amusements during the summer months, it becomes a mecca when the weather turns warmer.

Grotta Azzurra Monachile

The Grotta Azzurra Monachile is one of the more famous grottos in the town and the easiest to reach. Once you have navigated the narrow streets toward the sea, it can be found on the norther edge facing Bari.

Other Sights

We did not spend a lot time in this town, the historic district just does not offer much, especially during the off-season. In fact, we did not find many cafes or bars that were open, in the event you were thirsty and needed a drink. So, if you come in the off-season, prepare appropriately.

This town is another example of one I would not put high on my list. If you have the time, or you specifically are looking for a summer seaside place to stay, then this must fit the bill. Otherwise, I would rank it low on my places to see.

Monopoli, Italy – No Park Place

Monopoli, Italy – Not Park Place nor Marvin Gardens

If you are looking for something to do and have a free day to explore, then you might consider Monopoli, Italy. Located about forty minutes by train south of Bari, Monopoli is a true workers town, there is no fluff here.

Pescaturismo

The city has a basic port and does conduct fishing and fishing tours or fish tourism (pescaturismo or Fatti piu là), during the spring and summer months, on simple craft that you can reserve. I am not sure of the details, but if you are into catching your own food, this may be something to investigate. In any case, their boats are a bright blue and easy to see in the harbor.

Churches

Probably one of the most frequent ancient building to see in Monopoli, perhaps like any other Italian city, is the church, cathedral or basilica. In Monopoli they are all around. Since there is not much else to see in this quaint little city, looking at churches may pass the time.

Monuments And Piazzas

There are few monuments and piazzas in this town. The piazzas that we found, were either squeezed in somewhere or rather elongated and looked more like a road than a square.

However, in the new part of town, there is one large piazza that works instead of all the ones lacking in the old quarter, that is Piazza Vittoria Emanuele II.

Restaurants

There is not much to offer, especially during the winter seasons. There are frankly no restaurants in the old city open, so you will have to try your luck during off times in the newer sections of the city.

Michelangelo – L’arte del gusto

For lunch we ate here. Nothing extravagant, just a simple salad and the daily pasta. We were able to sit outside on the corner and watch the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele and enjoy our meal.

Bari, Italy – Ancient City Wonder – Part Two

Bari An Ancient City Wonder

In part one was an initial take on how Bari is an ancient city built on a peninsula in the Adriatic Sea on the east coast of Italy. In this second part, some of the cathedrals and museums that are interesting and available to see upon visiting are discussed.

Museums

Of course ancient Bari has its museums, most of which record activities by humans that predate the Roman Empire. In some places in Italy and the Mediterranean Sea, one might come to the conclusion, that if one could dig deep enough one would uncover the big bang as well.

The Svevo Castle

If the Bari peninsula were to be looked at like it was a triangle, then the Castello Normanno-Svevo or Norman-Swabian Castle, would occupy the entire lower left hand angle. It is a huge building that occupies a considerable amount of real estate on that side of the old city.

Surrounded by a moat that is currently grown in, the exterior appears well kept in spots, but requiring considerable work in other places.

The Swabian Castle Museum

The museum does not contain many artifacts per se, but it does have a very good multi-media presentation and displays in some of the larger spaces.

Churches and Cathedrals

Cathedral Of Bari

The Cathedral of Bari was built mostly in the last thirty years of the twelfth century. It was built on top of the destroyed Byzantine church that used to stand, as well as older Roman ruins.

The interior is rather majestic for an ancient Catholic church and owes much to the simplicity of its architecture.

The Crypt

The church, architect and builders ensured that below this amazing edifice would be a crypt. The crypt preserves the remains of Saint Sabinus in the main altar, but there are other notable sarcophagi as well.

The Archaeological Ruins

Alongside and even below the crypt are some amazing archaeological ruins that extend all the way back to the third century. This includes some incredible mosaics, frescos and even a partial roman road, where one can even see the remains of where the wagon wheels once traveled.

The Church Museum

Finally there is a small museum showing old church vestments and other relics. Not particularly of much interest, so if you wish to skip this part you probably can without much guilt.

Though having said that, the most interesting thing I though they had were a set of old hymnal parchment rolls.

Restaurants

Ciclatera

Ciclatera, under the sea is a great spot to stop for a drink or to have a small bite to eat. Located on the Lungomare right after the Fort of San Antonio, this little cafe or restaurant has a great bar and food menu. We only stopped for a drink, but what we could see of the menu, the prices seemed pretty reasonable.

Piccinni 28

Located one block over in Murat from the old city on via Niccola Piccinni, is Piccinni 28 Italian restaurant. It appears to be a favorite for locals, since we saw numerous work groups come in and have lunch.

They offer pizza and a typical Italian menu with some Apulian twists to it. For us, it was trying something new, so we of course picked the Spaghetti All’Assassina, or assassin’s spaghetti, an overcooked spicy dish with ragu that is rather tasty.

That along with a fine glass of wine and an Insalata Mista on top makes for a great lunch, enjoy!

Bari, Italy – Ancient City Wonder – Part One

Bari An Ancient City Wonder

Bari is an ancient city built on a peninsula in the Adriatic Sea on the east coast of Italy. It is part of the Apulia region of that country and for many centuries considered part of Southern Italy, which until early twentieth century was considered distinct from the Northern Italy.

The Italians here speak their own language, which is distinct from Italian and descended from the Neapolitan Dialect called the Barese Dialect. The differences here are also reflected in the food, pasta and other cultural areas.

The city itself has four distinct areas or sections, the old ancient part of the city is located on the peninsula. The train station is located in Murat, which may be considered the business section of the city.

Getting There

Since we are located in Northern Italian city of Turin, there are two options for us to get there, either the Turin or Milan airport. Since RyanAir has service to many small cities in Italy, Turin being one of them, they were the right choice for us. They provide a direct non-stop flight from Turin to Bari which only takes an hour and a half. It’s not cheap, but on the reasonable side. Even in January, with two flights a day, the plan was almost full.

Once we landed there were several options to get from the airport to the city. Train, bus, taxi and rent-a-car. When we can, we always prefer and ride the train. We just find it more relaxing and trouble free, but that of course depends on the country and the railroad that is available.

Apulia has its own train system, separate from TrennItalia, so we purchased tickets at the desk before entering the train station (I figure, I can always install the phone application later for any return business). The trip from Bari Airport to Bari Centrale (C.le) takes about thirty minutes with about four of five stops in between.

Where We Stayed

Frankly, I no longer care for BnBs and will take a hotel over them any day. However, given the opportunity to check other Bed and Breakfast places, outside the crap these applications serve up, we will book our stays with them, provided we have thoroughly checked them out ahead of time using other people’s recommendations as our source material.

Murex B&B

Murex B&B is a very nice modern Bed & Breakfast in the heart of the ancient city of Bari. The owners are young, attentive and respectful of our needs. The amenities that are provided are sufficient and plentiful. Our room came with breakfast each morning and other treats, that would not normally be provided at some hotels and definitely not at those other places.

One word of caution however, the staircase to enter is rather steep. So, if you require assistance with your luggage, you should ask. The owners are more than obliging to any requests and will carry it up and down for you.

Our room was La Città, it was spacious, well lit and warm. The bed was firm with a cushion top and it definitely helped me nod off.

Basilica Pontificia San Nicola

The Basilica Pontificia San Nicola was built in the late eleventh and early twelfth centuries and consists of a basic architecture of a nave with neighboring aisles.

The ceiling and interior has a rarity to it, that only an ancient church can provide. The roof is made of wood and is occluded by arches buttressing the sides together, few if any at right angles to each other, giving the entire interior a rather haphazard look.

 

The Crypt

Here you can find the tomb of Saint Nicholas, the patron saint of Christmas. The crypt is a beautiful room with myriad arches all of which are adorned with unique capitols.

Restaurants

Our first day here we only had time for one meal. Since we ate rather late in the afternoon, around three o’clock, we simply weren’t hungry enough for dinner later that evening.

Matiti Pasta Bistrot

This bistrot did not get very good ratings online, however we found both the food and service adequate for lunch. I ordered a glass of red Primitivo wine from the area which was just delicious, and a 5€ glass, it didn’t hurt my wallet either.

We kept things simple with a Caprese Salad, an Insalata Mista and later some pasta. After that I had an espresso and a sambuca. The total came to 62€ for two people, with two glasses of wine and coperto.

Turin, Italy – Early Return

Our Return Journey

Well after a somewhat long hiatus in the States, we returned to Turin at the beginning of January. As we have been getting older, we have noticed that we have to take things in stride and perhaps not rigidly plan so much, you never know what life can throw at you, especially grandchildren!

We flew Air France business class from RDU (Raleigh Durham, NC) to CDG (Charles de Gaulle, Paris, France). Not only do we find you get better bang for your points with Air France, the food is much better!

Though we are not a fan of CDG, it is better than flying in and out of JFK or some other domestic airport. We find they handle the entire passport entry and exit process a whole lot better than in the U.S. From Paris we took EasyJet to MXP (Milan, Italy), which is only a little over an hour. Though this carrier nickel and dimes you for every little thing, like some domestic carriers, it is still much cheaper than Air France’s HOP! flight to Turin.

The problem with going from Paris directly to Turin, Italy using air travel amounts to timing. The schedule for any flights leaving to Turin later leave you with either less than an hour to make your connection, which anyone knows who has traveled through CDG is almost an impossible task; or, waiting for one much later in the day. Then there is also the increased cost, which can be several hundred euros per person more expensive than flying into Milan. We therefore choose to fly into MXP and take the train back to Turin and saved almost $500.

Aside from the cold the city is more or less the way we have left it. Yes, there are public work projects in process; when we left via Po was more or less all dug up for city water and sewage line replacement. It appears they even replaced the tram lines that had to be removed, so it looks like the piazza and the street should be good for another fifty years.

Restaurants

Nuovo Zhen Bao Chinese Restaurant

One of our first places to eat was the chinese restaurant Nuovo Zhen Bao. There is no better way to break in the New Year than with a nice wine and a plate of chinese food.

As already noted in past entries they have excellent chinese food that would bring any chinese restaurant in the States to shame, and it is very economical, two people can have soup, salad, egg roll, a main and secondi dish with half liter of wine, small bottle of water and coffee and sambuca for around $35.

Il Buongusto

This week we found ourselves wanting a quick bite to eat and wandered our way over to Il Buongusto, which happens to be right around the corner, so to speak.

They always offer a good dish of Tajarin, either in Ragu (meat sauce) or Sugo (red sauce). It is a special version of pasta made mainly in the Piedmont region, I cannot say that we have anything quite like it in the States. Of course, they offer other options and have a full line of daily specials, but it was cold out and we needed something that would warm us up as well. Again, two people can eat here for lunch for right around $30.

Trattoria D’Agata

Today for lunch we went to Trattoria D’Agata, another staple on our list of restaurants to visit when in Turin. The menu reflects its Sicilian roots and the food tastes as though it adheres to that tradition, at least based on my experience on that beautiful island.

Sticking with tradition and shying away from their no doubt amazing pizze offerings, we stuck with a seafood theme for lunch. My dishes were a concentration in tuna, tuna polpetti and a main of tuna fish with red onion relish; while Patti preferred to go the route of Arancini with a Paccheri pasta with swordfish and eggplant.

Unlike the other two restaurants that were previosly commented on, this one is a bit more expensive, perhaps twice as much. However, having said that, we can say that the portions are on the larger side, so if you order too much, like we always seem to do, there are always plenty of left-overs. Our total for lunch, after our two hour stay, was €67 for two persons.

Porto di Savona

If you are looking for something a bit more unique or special to taste, then Porto di Savona would be a good pick. Here, most entries are made in house, including their pasta.

Located on the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, Porta di Savona has all of the Piedmont specials you might want for a nice dinner.

The Tajarin is made in-house using the age old forty egg recipe, making the pasta that unique color of yellow. That along with the Castelmagno cheese that is generously sprinkled on the top, you are looking at your body’s weekly cholesterol intake in one dish.

A bit more pricey than our usual picks, with the dishes seen above and a half liter of house red, the bill came to €62 for two people. But the food is absolutely delicious and worth every penny. Go early or book a reservation if you wish to go later, this restaurant gets full even during the early weekdays. Enjoy!

Turin, Italy – Back for a bit

After somewhat of a hiatus, we are back for a bit in Turin. Several things required our attention at home and therefore we have been away longer than we would have liked.

In many respects the city is just like we left it last year, in some others, not so much. There are major public works projects going on, so there are some major thoroughfares that are closed and other scaffolding eye-sores to try and ignore. Aside from that, it is rather quiet, since most Italians have left for their August vacation.

Weather

We thought the weather in North Carolina was strange, being as wet as it has been before we left. But it appears to have followed us here as well.

Though not unheard of, this is not the rainy season in Turin, thunderstorms are usually rare this time of year. This one popped up from nowhere and caused quite a scene. It also was severe enough to trash most of the vegetation, especially in our courtyard. My only hope is the sorrounding wine regions were spared.

Restaurants

For the month and a half that we will be here, we have visited or re-visited the following restaurants in our city.

Trattoria D’Agata

This restaurant has great food and decent house wine, if you like that with your lunch. The Chicken Cutlet is huge and very filling, so be careful what else you order with it. The Caponata is amazing, so that is a must order item, if you don’t you will regret it, there is nothing comparable in the States. The Arancini is also a must try!

At Home

We cook Italian and rather conservatively most evenings. A typical dish that is easy to make and tastes great, especially with tomatoes from Italy, is Pasta e Patate in olive sauce with Pecorino Romano DOP cheese sprinkled over it. Yum.

Barolo & Barbaresco, Italy – Langhe Wine Tour

South of the river Tanaro is the wine region of Langhe and the two of the most well known Italian wine towns, Barolo and Barbaresco. For any wine enthusiast, it is an important stop on par with the fabled wineries of Napa Valley in California, the Saône river valley of Burgundy and the Gironde river valley of Bordeaux in France.

Langhe

For the Piedmont this region is by far the most important place for wine and truffles. Every year during the fall, people flock to this small region in Italy to enjoy the Italian harvest of truffles, both black and white, and naturally the wines that are produced in this region. Our recent summer trip concentrated on the wines and to enjoy a wine tour with other wine enthusiasts from Germany and Denmark. Though we did sample the black truffles while here, I can only say we are not fans. So wine it is..!

First, some background. The wine production and labeling in the area is controlled by a Control Denomination of Origin, or Denominazione di origine controllata, as it is in the rest of Italy. Structured after the French model and adopted by the European Union (EU), there are essentially four designations for Italian wines:

    • Denominazione di origine, or DO, this is rarely used
    • Indicazione geografica tipica, or IGT, this is used to designate wines typical of the region
    • Denominazione di origine controllata, or DOC, to indicate wines controlled and designated for the area
    • Denominazione di origine controllata e garantita, or DOCG, to indicate wines controlled and guaranteed to be from the area

The last two appellations are the most important, since they both assure a rigid and specific level of government oversight, as well as control over the labeling and the origins of the grapes in the wines of these designations.

It should also be noted that no IGT wines are produced in Piedmont or Valle D’Aosta.

DOC

Originally there were only the first three designations, DOC being the highest of them. However, the Italian food industry quickly decided that its designation was far too liberal and included other foodstuffs within the standard, so they requested a more rigorous standard, thus DOCG came into being for wine only and superseded DOC.

Much like DOCG, the DOC requirements demand that such wines use only certain grape varietals, are aged properly, have a certain alcohol content and be produced within certain areas or regions. Though the number of bottles that may be produced for a given wine is somewhat restrictive, the wines do not have the direct governmental wine panel oversight or trails of paper found in the higher classification.

Wines of this category are Barbera, Dolcetto and Nebbiolo, all of which are designated grape varieties and may be identified as such on a bottle marked as DOC.

DOCG

DOCG is by far the more rigorous designation and is controlled to such a degree, that the vintner is forced to follow rigid rules regarding the care and quality of the wines throughout its production, all the way down to the number of labels they will receive for their bottles for each wine.

Wines of this category are Barolo, Barbaresco and Muscato wines, of which Barolo and Barbaresco are made from Nebbiolo grapes and Muscato from the Muscato Bianco varietal.

Once the wine is produced, a batch of five (5) bottles are processed, corked, sealed and labeled for the authorities. All of which have the CDO label across the corks, signed, sealed and documented. Four of the bottles are taken for lab analysis and a wine panel judges them to ensure quality, clarity and that the wine produced meets the standard set for DOCG for that wine and region. One bottle is left with the produced. An example from the Grasso Brother vineyard in Barbaresco is shown below.

Our Wine Tour

For our wine tour we chose Alba Wine Tours. We tried to arrange a private tour, but they only offer group tours of up to six people. The cost for us for a one-day tour of Barolo and Barbaresco was 220€/person. Yes, a bit expensive, but unlike our experience in the United States at such venues, we tasted more than 25 wines. Moreover, our hosts were more than happy to provide us with second tastings or additional wine, if we enjoyed it and felt a certain wine was exceptional.

For each wine taste, they dispensed between 5-10dl, which is not bad considering a normal glass of wine is typically around 20dl. Typically in the States you barely get enough wine to get a nose on it, let alone taste it. Which probably shows that most wineries in the States are more interested in mitigating costs, then in pleasing theirs guests and trying to sell their product. This usually indicates to me that their products are typically not good enough to sell to begin with, let alone taste.

Unfortunately, as is true of most wine tastings, most of the wine was dumped. However, by the end of the day, it was very evident that we all had more than our fair share.

Barolo

Our first stop was in the small town of Barolo, a castle turned museum being its most prominent feature. There are of course numerous wine stores, most belonging to vineyards in the region, which have tastings and sell wine. We only stopped to see the town and to continue to our first stop, the Azienda Agricola Stra, also known as Stra Winemakers with Foresteria.

One of the most notable features of Barolo is its soil and topology. Not only is the soil a kind of hard-pack mixture of sand, clay and other components, its valleys are steep and almost treacherous.

Azienda Agricola Stra

Our stop at Agritourism Stra was very informative and our hosts, including our tour driver, Saverio Molinai, were very instructive about the wines and the process to make them. This included a tour of the wine producing facilities and their cellars, where the wines are stored and kept during the aging process.

The tasting included a flight of all the wines they produce, with one exception, the Dolcetto 2022 for 8€. The list below shows some of the wines offered and we essentially when from the top of the list to the bottom.

All during our tasting, our tour guide explained the various aspects of Barolo, its soil, the wines and the wine making process they used. He was actually very knowledgeable and when he was not sure about something that was particular to this producer, he would ask our host and she provided the necessary explanation.

Impressed with the quality of the wines, we purchased almost half a case of five bottles, two bottles of DOCG Stra La Volta 2019 Barolo and three bottles of DOC Stra Barbera D’Alba 2021. Of course, the Barolo is kind of young to drink right now and needs a handful of years to mellow. But the Barbera is young and fruity, with plenty of tannin, cherry and tobacco overtones and ready to drink now. It would be great with a nice steak or any other dish that could compete with its strength.

The last thing that we tried here that was not on the list was their Grappa. I actually forgot what they labeled it as and what the year was, but for a grappa is was very good. Most grappa can be a bit strong, even harsh, this one was actually a pleasure to drink, even Patti liked it, and she doesn’t even like grappa.

Barbaresco

Our stop in Barbaresco included two stops, one in town for a tasting at Produttori del Barbaresco S.A.C., or the commune wine store; the other at the Grasso Brothers to the south of Barbaresco in Giacoso. The town, Barbaresco, is unmistakable from a distance, due to its distinct tower which is so prominent on the horizon.

The land here is flatter and clearly more rolling than in Barolo. The valleys are not as steep and the vineyards appear to be able to employ more of their land to grapes. However, our guide told us that the primary reason some of the land still has trees was for truffle production in the area, its not necessarily unproductive, just used for another purpose.

Produttori del Barbaresco S.A.C.

The inside of this store is rather modern, almost sterile in a contemporary way. Here we tasted the DOC Langhe Nebbiolo 2021 and two DOCG Barbarescos, a 2018 and a 2019. The nebbiolo was rather dry with little fruit and unimpressive, but clear with a crisp ruby color and a distinct nose. The 2018 and 2019 Barbarescos were a bit disappointing. Although they were typical of a nebbiolo varietal for Barbaresco, there price was rather high. I felt I could find a similar one that was less expensive in Turin.

The last thing we tried was their Grappa. It was typical for grappa, lots of alcohol and perhaps a bit harsh. So this stop was a bit disappointing, but we got to see that town.

We left here without purchasing anything.

Azienda Agricola Grasso Fratelli

The Grasso Fratelli, or Grasso Brothers, have a rather unassuming winery. From the outside the construction is typical for Piedmont and it is adorned with signs of the wines they make, like Barbaresco, Bricco Spessa, Barbera, etc. One could call it a typical farm.

The building houses two large rooms for tasting and the atmosphere is rather laid back. The wines for the tasting contained Chardonnays, Dolcettos, Barberas, Nebbiolos, a Moscato, a Rosato and a wine called Vino rosso Trej. All of these wines were very good, including the Chardonnays which I thought were very clean and not overly oaked, like most complain about in the United States.

There were however no Barbarescos on the list to taste, so we were all a bit taken aback. Once we mentioned this, our host and driver Saverio went to retrieve a few bottles for us to try

There was an immediate reaction and the brothers appeared, looking a bit hesitant. However, Saverio convinced them that if they don’t let people try the wines, they won’t sell them.

The brothers have never marries and still work on the farm, though some of the work is done by the cooperative. They have been working their plot of land for over sixty years. The eldest, Alfredo, is eighty-two (82) years old this year and the other brother, Luigi, about ten years his junior. The two brothers came to the table and talked with our guide, while we tried the wine.

The best bottle was their DOCG Giacosa Spessa Barbaresco 2017. This is an amazingly good wine, full of cherry and other fruity undertones along with plenty of alcohol for longevity, coupled with an amazing nose and a rich red color typical for a nebbiolo, and best of all, ready to drink now. The vines that it is produced from are of the oldest in the vineyard, being planted by Alfredo when he was only twenty years old. This means that the roots of these vines have driven over a meter deep into the ground, allowing them to access different soils and salts. It is so good, I had to purchase two bottles. Unfortunately, I was not able to carry more, so I had to keep to that limit. A planning mistake I will not make again in the future.

Restaurants

We visited one restaurant for lunch, which we had to inform the tour operator in advance of how much we wanted to spend. At the time, the limits were 30€/person, 50€/person and 70€/person, for which the unnamed restaurant would provide a basic lunch with appetizer and primi, or a heavier lunch with appetizer, primi and secondi, or a culinary delight of the same, but made personally by the chef. We both thought it was overpriced. So we went off-menu and ordered from the daily specials and only what we wanted.

Locanda La Gemella

For lunch we stopped at Locanda la Gamella on the edge of town. A very nice, I would say upscale restaurant with a very dynamic menu. They also have daily and chef’s specials, so there seems to be something for everyone.

We went a la carte with the special Tajarin al ragu, some still water and a glass of wine. Our total bill came to 51€ total for the both of us, which wasn’t too bad, but still a bit pricey. Unfortunately, neither myself nor my wife took any photographs of our dishes or the place, though they were kind of normal and not very special for the Piedmont.

Alba, Italy – Piedmont’s Wine Center

Our trip started at Turin’s Porta Susa train station. For a little over 12€/person, you can purchase a one-way commuter ticket on Piedmont’s Sfm4 line to Alba, which takes about an hour and twenty minutes to get there, going through Bra first, which can also be a stop on your itinerary.

Alba

Anyone serious about wine or truffles has to visit Alba, Italy. Located an hour or so south of Turin, it is a bustling center for both, especially in the Fall when both of these products are harvested. Our whole intent on visiting the town was a wine tour we had booked for Barolo and Barbaresco (covered in my next post), but we decided to grab a hotel and enjoy an extra day just to explore.

The town is rather self contained and almost in the shape of a loose hexagon, owing to its ancient Roman ancestry as a fortification no doubt. There are several places where these ancient ruins are evident and demonstrate how the town itself is constructed upon them, using them as a foundation. There are also underground caverns and tunnels that can be explored, but arrangements have to be made ahead of time in order to visit them.

The town has numerous towers and it was once known as the town with a hundred towers. These were most likely constructed as lookouts and were defensive in nature.

There are also numerous churches, as is true of most Italian towns and cities. The cathedral, or Duomo, occupies a central place near the town’s marketplace and between the Piazza Duomo and Piazza Rossetti. The interior is typical for its size and function.

Other churches, including the Church of the Maddalena, actually have more interesting and elaborate interiors. One, the Church of Saint John the Baptist, looks more like a provincial library than a church inside.

Hotel Dellatorre

A three star hotel, which is actually more of a converted Bed-n-Breakfast, than a real hotel. It is more like a cafe/bar that has added rooms and tries to call itself a hotel. All the rooms are separate and there is no main structure with hallways, they all have external doors.

The owner runs a cafe or bar as well, and although we stayed here for one night, we did not use her cafe for breakfast, since we had learned that the beverages were a bit over-priced. Again, we are not sure whether that is in fact the case, but we did notice that there was no menu or price list anywhere. While we travel we have a general rule that if the prices are not listed, we tend to avoid the establishment.

The room was spacious enough, quiet and comfortable for the most part. The bed was very hard, so if you prefer that kind of mattress firmness, this place might be for you.

Restaurants

Conterosso

For lunch we ate at Conterosso and chose two of the local dishes. Patti had the Agnolotti with truffles and I had the veal with a barolo wine sauce, both were excellent dishes.

Gusto Madre

A contemporary dining place that makes excellent pizza. Located in Piazza Michele Ferrero, it is just on the edge of town.

Since Patti was not feeling well, I ate alone and just ordered a simple Pizza Margherita which was drizzled with a pesto, it was actually quite good.

Map of the City

Below is a map of the city.

Turin, Italy – Accorsi Ometto Museum

Museo Accorsi Ometto

In Turin, on via Po and not far from Piazza Vittorio Veneto, is the obscure and easily missed Museo Accorsi Ometto, or the Accorsi Ometto Museum. Actually, when we first arrived in 2019 we had wanted to go, but then it closed suddenly due to Covid. It has now reopened, probably along with surge in tourists we have seen in Turin.

The Entrance and Ticket Office

Though not entirely nondescript, the museum might be easy to walk passed if you are not paying attention. Though now they have several placards outside indicating that something interesting might be going on inside.

The Museum

The museum actually serves a dual purpose, the building is itself an attraction and the house loaned exhibits from time to time. Therefore, for your entrance fee, you actually get two museums in one.

The museum’s current attraction are Works from Venice from the eighteenth century and is called the Museum of Decorative Art. They actually have a very good online introduction and additional information about tickets. We found it easy enough just to walk in.

One thing we did find, the QR codes on most of the exhibits did not work. At least using my phone scanner, I was unable to load anything, so you may have to tour the exhibits without this luxury, though we found many exhibits were already translated.

The exhibit begins with many works of Venetian art, without much in the rooms themselves to see. However, in the latter rooms, both the works of art and the rooms themselves are explained in detail and exhibit some of the finer Piedmont style furnishings and cabinetry.

Finally, there are a few rooms with smaller artifacts in exhibits or porcelain and other expensive materials. Most of these appear to have been decorative, but some actually served useful purposes.

That concludes our visit to one of the smaller museums in Turin. In many ways we found it better designed than some of the larger museums we have been to in the area. The entrance fee is around 12€/person and discounts are available for older adults and children. Here are some last pieces and rooms of note, enjoy!