Our trip started at Turin’s Porta Susa train station. For a little over 12€/person, you can purchase a one-way commuter ticket on Piedmont’s Sfm4 line to Alba, which takes about an hour and twenty minutes to get there, going through Bra first, which can also be a stop on your itinerary.
Porta Susa Terminal – Turin, Italy
Porta Susa Terminal – Turin, Italy
Alba
Alba train station – Alba, Italy
Anyone serious about wine or truffles has to visit Alba, Italy. Located an hour or so south of Turin, it is a bustling center for both, especially in the Fall when both of these products are harvested. Our whole intent on visiting the town was a wine tour we had booked for Barolo and Barbaresco (covered in my next post), but we decided to grab a hotel and enjoy an extra day just to explore.
Valerio Berruti sculptor – Alba, Italy
Piazza Michele Ferrero – Alba, Italy
Corso Michele Coppino – Alba, Italy
Porticos in Alba – Alba, Italy
The streets of Alba are well kept – Alba, Italy
Hotel Casa Della Torre – Alba, Italy
Piazza Risorgimento – Alba, Italy
Giorgio Busca Theater – Alba, Italy
The town is rather self contained and almost in the shape of a loose hexagon, owing to its ancient Roman ancestry as a fortification no doubt. There are several places where these ancient ruins are evident and demonstrate how the town itself is constructed upon them, using them as a foundation. There are also underground caverns and tunnels that can be explored, but arrangements have to be made ahead of time in order to visit them.
Roman Theater and Palazzo Marro remains – Alba, Italy
Roman Theater and Palazzo Marro remains – Alba, Italy
The town has numerous towers and it was once known as the town with a hundred towers. These were most likely constructed as lookouts and were defensive in nature.
The towers of Alba – Alba, Italy
Three towers of Alba – Alba, Italy
Piazza Paertinace – Alba, Italy
Palazzo Communale and Cathedral of San Lorenzo – Alba, Italy
Another bell tower – Alba, Italy
There are also numerous churches, as is true of most Italian towns and cities. The cathedral, or Duomo, occupies a central place near the town’s marketplace and between the Piazza Duomo and Piazza Rossetti. The interior is typical for its size and function.
Cathedral of San Lorenzo – Alba, Italy
Other churches, including the Church of the Maddalena, actually have more interesting and elaborate interiors. One, the Church of Saint John the Baptist, looks more like a provincial library than a church inside.
Chiesa della Maddalena, via Vincenzo Gioberti – Alba, Italy
Chiesa della Maddalena – Alba, Italy
Chiesa della Maddalena – Alba, Italy
Chiesa della Maddalena – Alba, Italy
Hotel Dellatorre
A three star hotel, which is actually more of a converted Bed-n-Breakfast, than a real hotel. It is more like a cafe/bar that has added rooms and tries to call itself a hotel. All the rooms are separate and there is no main structure with hallways, they all have external doors.
Hotel Casa Della Torre – Alba, Italy
Hotel Casa Della Torre – Alba, Italy
The owner runs a cafe or bar as well, and although we stayed here for one night, we did not use her cafe for breakfast, since we had learned that the beverages were a bit over-priced. Again, we are not sure whether that is in fact the case, but we did notice that there was no menu or price list anywhere. While we travel we have a general rule that if the prices are not listed, we tend to avoid the establishment.
Hotel Casa Della Torre – Alba, Italy
Hotel Casa Della Torre – Alba, Italy
The room was spacious enough, quiet and comfortable for the most part. The bed was very hard, so if you prefer that kind of mattress firmness, this place might be for you.
Restaurants
Conterosso
For lunch we ate at Conterosso and chose two of the local dishes. Patti had the Agnolotti with truffles and I had the veal with a barolo wine sauce, both were excellent dishes.
Conterosso – Alba, Italy
Caprese salad – Conterosso – Alba, Italy
Agnolotti with black truffles – Conterosso – Alba, Italy
Veal in Barolo sauce with potatoes – Conterosso – Alba, Italy
Gusto Madre
A contemporary dining place that makes excellent pizza. Located in Piazza Michele Ferrero, it is just on the edge of town.
Gusto Madre – Alba, Italy
Since Patti was not feeling well, I ate alone and just ordered a simple Pizza Margherita which was drizzled with a pesto, it was actually quite good.
In Turin, on via Po and not far from Piazza Vittorio Veneto, is the obscure and easily missed Museo Accorsi Ometto, or the Accorsi Ometto Museum. Actually, when we first arrived in 2019 we had wanted to go, but then it closed suddenly due to Covid. It has now reopened, probably along with surge in tourists we have seen in Turin.
Tickets For Two – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
The Entrance and Ticket Office
Though not entirely nondescript, the museum might be easy to walk passed if you are not paying attention. Though now they have several placards outside indicating that something interesting might be going on inside.
via Po Entrance – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Courtyard – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Courtyard and Mole in the distance – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Portico wall – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Entrance and ticket office – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Portico ceiling – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
The Museum
The museum actually serves a dual purpose, the building is itself an attraction and the house loaned exhibits from time to time. Therefore, for your entrance fee, you actually get two museums in one.
Entrance and stairwell – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
First floor entrance – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
The museum’s current attraction are Works from Venice from the eighteenth century and is called the Museum of Decorative Art. They actually have a very good online introduction and additional information about tickets. We found it easy enough just to walk in.
First room – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Large paintings – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Giovanni Bonazza, The adoration of the Magi, 1729 – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Ornate library and office space – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Artwork in pencil and ink – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Artwork of Venice – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
One thing we did find, the QR codes on most of the exhibits did not work. At least using my phone scanner, I was unable to load anything, so you may have to tour the exhibits without this luxury, though we found many exhibits were already translated.
Antonio Vivaldi from Bologna – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Gabriele Bella, Venetian public carnival – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Michele Marieschi, Piazza San Marco – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Michele Marieschi, Rialto bridge in Venice – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Miessen clock and other ornate furniture, 1760s – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Ships in harbor, Venice – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
The exhibit begins with many works of Venetian art, without much in the rooms themselves to see. However, in the latter rooms, both the works of art and the rooms themselves are explained in detail and exhibit some of the finer Piedmont style furnishings and cabinetry.
First Cignaroli room, Artwork of Giuseppe Zais, 1760 – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Venetian bedroom, 1760s – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Pietro Accorsi’s bedroom, mid 18th century – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Louis XV Drawing room – Giovanni Bonazza, Busts of Bacco, Arianna, Eraclito and Democrito, 1710 – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Bandera bedroom – Piedmont embroidery using a honeycomb stitch in polychrome wool and cotton – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Interesting model or diorama – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Ornate work in porcelain – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Francesco Bertos, Allegory of the Aria of the four seasons, marble – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Piffetti Salon, late Piedmont Baroque style and masterpieces – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Piffetti Salon, late Piedmont Baroque style and masterpieces – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Jacques Birckle desk – Piffetti Salon, late Piedmont Baroque style and masterpieces – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Louis XVI Salon – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Louis XVI Salon – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Giuseppe Monlinari, Mandolins, 1759 and 1780 – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Erard forte-piano, Music room – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
The Buffet room without lighting, Tavole Imbandite – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
The Buffet room with lighting, Tavole Imbandite – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Chinese porcelain figurines, Buffet room – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Finally, there are a few rooms with smaller artifacts in exhibits or porcelain and other expensive materials. Most of these appear to have been decorative, but some actually served useful purposes.
Porcelain figurine collection – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Fine china collection – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Porcelain figurine collection – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Ornate porcelain and other collections – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Interesting candle lit Venetian scene painted on china – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Ornate porcelain and other collections – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
That concludes our visit to one of the smaller museums in Turin. In many ways we found it better designed than some of the larger museums we have been to in the area. The entrance fee is around 12€/person and discounts are available for older adults and children. Here are some last pieces and rooms of note, enjoy!
Religious wall hangings – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
A Child’s bureau, “Mazzarin”, Piedmontese cabinet-maker, 1705 – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Side gallery with religious artifacts – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Kitchen with copper molds and ware – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Kitchen with copper molds and ware – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Venetian Dress – Accorsi Ometto Museum – Turin, Italy
Across Lake Maggiore from Stresa lies Verbania and the town of Pallanza. This is another destination one may reach by purchasing a ferry ticket with the Lake Maggiore Ferry transportation system.
Boat launch – Stresa, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Stresa to Pallanza – Tickets For Two – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Verbania
Since we had an extra day, we took a day trip there to discover if Pallanza had anything to offer and to visit the Gardens of Villa Taranto.
Looking toward Stresa – Lake Maggiore, Italy
Looking toward Pallanza – Lake Maggiore, Italy
Looking toward the tip of Verbania – Lake Maggiore, Italy
Pallanza – Lake Maggiore, Italy
Looking toward Bevano – Lake Maggiore, Italy
Pallanza dock – Lake Maggiore, Italy
Pallanza
There is not much to see here, though during our visit there was a lot of lake side construction, which not only blocked our view of things but made for a rather noisy visit. Hence, we did not stop here to eat anything.
Our ferry – Pallanza, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The town is actually quite simple and the only things there that stand out are the Church of Saint Leonard and its bell tower, and a few World War I memorials.
War memorial – Pallanza, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Soldiers that died in WWI from the town – Pallanza, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Church tower – Pallanza, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Church of Saint Leonard – Pallanza, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The water show off the beach appeared a bit to much for a destination offering so little, but we took a photograph of it anyway.
The town’s welcome float – Pallanza, Lake Maggiore, Italy
After a quick tour of Pallanza, we attempted to walk to the Villa Taranto gardens. After about forty minutes of frustration with a well known map application, we decided to turn around and take the ferry instead, which has service to the gardens.
The gardens are completely walled off – Remigio – Pallanza, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Italians and their walls – Remigio – Pallanza, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Regardless what the phone application tries to tell you, you may not enter the gardens from any side other than from where the boat launch is, so do not try unless you want to walk on a state road or you want to waste a lot of your time trying. The entire garden is surrounded by immense walls or fences and all of the entry points are locked. I walked all the way up to the Oratory of Saint Remigio just to make sure.
Oratory of Saint Remigio – Pallanza, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Villa Taranto
Villa Taranto is the ferry stop right after Pallanza and before Intra. It is about a ten to fifteen minute ride from Pallanza, so we purchased a round trip ticket from Pallanza to Villa Taranto to make up the difference with our ticket from Stresa to Pallanza, since we would be taking the ferry directly back once we finished the gardens.
Villa Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Tickets For Two – Villa Taranto Botanical Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The Gardens
The gardens of Villa Taranto are very well kept and marked. Each section is dedicated to some specific type of flora or theme. The walkways are well maintained such that you will have no issues ascending the hill that the gardens are planted on.
Villa Taranto, or the Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Hydrangea – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Fountain in gardens – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Garden – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The flora – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Tropical lillypads in greenhouse – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Small chapel – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The chapel – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Itea ilicifolia or Chinese Sweet Spire – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Small bridge – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Grand lawn, fountain and out building – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
More flora – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Beautiful flowers – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
More flowers – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Flowers near pond – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Beautiful landscaping – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Monument to garden creator – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Architectural garden – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Architectural garden – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Chamaecyparis lawsoniana or Lawson Cypress – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Architectural garden – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Architectural garden – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Erica or Heather – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
A small well – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Large conifers – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Restaurants
In Villa Taranto we ate at the bistro within the park, having no desire after a long walk through the gardens of venturing any further out.
Cafè & Bistrot
Nothing much to rave about here, it is just a simple bistro and cafe. In one section you may sit and enjoy a drink, in the other you may order lunch or whatever they are serving at the time, if they are open. For lunch, we just had a simple salad with tomatoes and Tropea onions and olive oil, along with some white wine on the side, which was very dry and very good.
Villa Sparina, Gavi di Gavi РCaf̬ & Bistrot РTaranto Gardens РVerbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Villa Sparina, Gavi di Gavi РCaf̬ & Bistrot РTaranto Gardens РVerbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Aside from the failed attempt to walk to Villa Taranto Gardens, the ferry and the gardens, saved what could have been a sweaty miserable afternoon looking at flowers. So after eating, we thoroughly enjoyed our boat trip back to Stresa and would commend others not to stop in Pallanza, but go straight to the gardens and perhaps even Intra later, if the traveling bug moves you so.
To the boats – Taranto Gardens – Verbania, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Of the five Borromeo islands that make up that small group in Lake Maggiore, three have ferry service to them, one is uninhabitable, but has a beach you can visit, and the other, not far off the coast near Pallanza, is small and not frequented by visitors.
CMA Ship Ticket – Tickets For Two – Three Island Tour – Stresa, Italy
CMA Boat Service to the islands – Stresa, Italy
One should note, at least for our CMA ferry service, the islands are visited in an order, as presented below. Altering this order is impossible, if not very difficult, so plan accordingly.
Isola Bella
Isola Bella is probably the most frequented of the three. It has an ostensibly renowned italianate garden, which you have to purchase tickets for of course, but they do include access to the palazzo and the other gardens on Isola Madre.
Isola Bella and Madre Garden tickets – Tickets For Two – Stresa, Italy
Isola Madre from Isola Bella – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The Palazzo
The entrance to the gardens is via the palazzo, you cannot just walk into them. We walked through the old fishing town thinking there were multiple entrances to the gardens, there are not. There is only one, through the palazzo and after the ticket counter.
Palazzo Borromea – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Entrance to the palazzo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
A walk-through of the palazzo is provided in the below slideshow.
Staircase to Salone Nuovo – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Staircase to Salone Nuovo – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Old Marble for staircase – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Sala del Trono and Sala della Regina – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Puppets and Marionettes – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Puppets and Marionettes – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Odd rock style rooms – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Odd rock style rooms – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Odd rock style rooms – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Stone spiral stairway – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Stone spiral stairway – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Hallway storing other artifacts – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Galleria degli Arazzi – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Galleria degli Arazzi – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Galleria degli Arazzi – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The gardens are accessed from the palazzo through what is called Diana’s Atrium, a small sub-garden with stairways to the garden. There is not much to see here and it is probably meant more as a meeting place, than any important adjunct to the gardens, so we ascended to the gardens almost immediately.
To the gardens – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The Gardens
The gardens do contain some interesting species, especially the old Camphor tree that was planted there in 1819 by Vitaliano IX Borromeo. It also houses a peacock and peahen, which will provide the necessary background noise in the gardens for any videos you wish to make.
Camphor Tree on Camphor Terrace – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Stairs to another level – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Peacock and Peahen – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Stresa – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Gardino d’Amore – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Gardens – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The Gardens – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Apparently the pride of the gardens is the Massimo Theater. A rather odd assemblage of opulent statues and finished by Carlo IV, it probably points to the decedent past these properties enjoyed.
Even though its proper name of Isola Superiore belies its size, Isola dei Pescatori is the smallest of the three islands. Its main attraction is the small fishing town that stretches from three quarters of its shoreline.
Small town streets – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Narrow alleys – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Jolly Roger – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Hydrangea – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
There is only enough room here for restaurants, cafes, shops, boat docks and the odd park on the northwest side of the island. So, casually walking its streets and narrow alleyways is, more or less, the only thing to do here, aside from eating of course.
Rocky beach on the island – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Park at the end of island – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Isola Madre
Isola Madre is the largest of the three and for the most part is an island with a garden and palazzo on it. The garden is entered first, after turning right off the boat and taking the a long garden path walk around a third of the island.
Map – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Entrance to gardens – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Entrance to gardens – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Old Palm tree – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Coast – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Patti in gardens – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
View of Pallanza and Laveno – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Pallanza – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Once you pass the entrance, where a person will scan your tickets, the garden begins.
Entrance statue – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Entrance statue – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The Garden
I found this garden quieter, more casual and more enjoyable overall. It has a few different sections, including a jungle environment which is very wet and grows ferns and other jungle type plants.
Looking back at Stresa – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Patti on garden steps – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Garden walkway – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Eucalyptus trees – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Flowers – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
More flowers and Dark Throat Golden Pheasant – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Dark Throat Golden Pheasant – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
More flowers – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
More flowers – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
More flowers – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Hydrangea – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Ferns in the wet part of the gardens – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
More ferns – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Old boat or gondola dock – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Pallanza – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
An old Taxodium Distichum or swamp cypress – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Leaves of the swamp cypress – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
A rather poor specimen of Sequoiadendron Giganteum, labeled Wellingtonia Gigantea, or the giant sequoia – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Pathway and Bamboo grove – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Walkway towards the palazzo – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The Palazzo
Immediately outside the entrance to the palazzo is a huge Cashmir Cypress tree, that was once blown over by a tornado on the island and later saved. It is indeed a magnificent specimen.
The Cashmir Cypress – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The interior of the palazzo is very interesting and a bit disturbing as well. It contains a lot of desiderata, so the displays can often appear disjointed and not themed well. However, taken as the idiosyncrasies of its creators and owners, it is perhaps more understandable. I found it enjoyable though confused at times, in its own way.
Antonio Albertini, Biuditta con la Testa di Oloferne – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Exhibit – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Statue – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Cypress tree from balcony – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Main room – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Fireplace – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Hallway crowded with extra furniture – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Chapel and outside garden – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Ivory and Ebony tabletop – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Room with oddities – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Room with oddities – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Room with oddities – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Bedroom – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Bedroom for baby and mother – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Cradle – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Hallway – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Elaborate mannequins with Marionette stage – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Marionette stage – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Marionettes and small puppets – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Marionettes on stage – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Odd women’s room – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Dark hallway filled with unused furniture – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Interesting painting – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Study – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Study – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Sitting room – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Murano glass chandelier – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Another Murano glass chandelier – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Old chest – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The Chapel inside – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Outside and exit to boats – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
We thoroughly enjoyed our day visiting all three islands. Though it is a lot to see in one day, it took us about five hours, it is manageable. It might be more difficult if it is hot outside, since all of the gardens are outside and the palazzos do not appears to have any air-conditioning in them. However, there are plenty of places to buy water on each of the islands, so staying hydrated should not be an issue.
Patti by Small pond – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Our CMA ferry – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Leaving the island – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The island from our ferry – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Restaurants
Though there are restaurants and cafes on all the islands, we ate on the island of Pescatori because it was in the middle of our day boat trip to all of the islands, and at around half past one, it broke the trip up just about right.
Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcodero
The Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcodero is on the small island of Pescatori. In fact, most of the good restaurants of the three islands are probably here. It has a wide variety of Italian dishes that one can choose from the menu. For lunch, we kept it simple, since we were both not feeling one hundred percent and already had a substantial breakfast at the hotel.
From the boat – Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcadero – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcadero – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Spaghetti with tomatoes and lentils – Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcadero – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Spaghetti in simple tomato sauce – Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcadero – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Stresa is a small lake-side tourist attraction on Lake Maggiore, Italy. It is frequented by Italians, Brits, French, Germans, Asians and the odd American. It is only a tiny strip of about a few kilometers, where there are a dozen or so hotels. It is not very busy, unlike the Mediterranean coast, so it is very laid back and relaxing – a quiet retreat.
View from hotel room – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
The town is rather simple, but it has ample restaurants and other types of shopping. There is also an amazing AgriGelateria at Corso Umberto I, which has excellent gelato with all natural and authentic flavors, a must stop, especially when it is really hot outside.
Downtown Stresa – Stresa, Italy
Side street – Stresa, Italy
Pedestrian way – Stresa, Italy
Main Piazza – Stresa, Italy
Another side street – Stresa, Italy
Lake Maggiore – Stresa, Italy
Lake Maggiore – Stresa, Italy
Tourist Gate of Stresa – Stresa, Italy
Lungolago di Stresa
Stresa also has a wonderful boardwalk area stretching from Stresa along the lake front and becoming the Passeggiata del lago di Carciano, which is directly across from Isola Bella. It’s a bit over a kilometer and will take about a quarter to half of an hour to walk, depending on your pace.
Beach – Stresa, Italy
Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy
Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy
Isola Bella – Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy
Isola Bella – Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy
Lake Maggiore and Isola Bella, Isola Pescatori – Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy
Lake Maggiore – Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy
Isola Bella – Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy
Isola Bella – Botanical walk towards Bevano – Stresa, Italy
Hotel Regina Palace
In its heyday, this four star hotel must have been a place to see and enjoy. However, aside from its opulent structure, this hotel is a solid three-star hotel than what it’s advertised.
Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
The issues we had while here for our short five day star were as follows:
Our room was not vacuumed for our entire stay.
There was no Hair Conditioner nor Body Lotion in the bathroom.
The plumbing is old, requires repairs and updating, some things leak continuously.
The walls in the rooms are paper-thin and the painting is dated.
Room service does not fill everything you would expect, e.g. tissues.
In the dining area – they do not replace things unless you request and even then you might not get it, e.g. syrup for your pancakes.
In the dining area – you may have to seat yourself, the concierge is not very attentive. I know it’s Italy, but most of the time half of the staff is standing around doing nothing.
The hotel is in a very strategic position along the coast, it is both very close to the islands and the town, this was one of the reasons we selected it. So, if you visit this hotel, be aware of the aforementioned issues and go in with your eyes wide shut.
Car Entrance – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
Main Lobby – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
Main Lobby – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
Main Lobby – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
Bar – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
View of the three islands – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
View of Leveno and Monte Crocetta – Hotel Regina Palace – Stresa, Italy
The Matterhorn Express, the last leg of our journey here, is the longest of the rides you may take with the Peak Pass. It covers the gondola ride from Zermatt via Furi, all the way up to Klein Matterhorn and the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise.
The Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn – Walking to the gondola entrance – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn – Walking to the gondola entrance – Zermatt, Switzerland
The gondola ride is fairly long and one can hop-on and hop-off and several different places along the way.
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Furi – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Furi – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Zermatt below – Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Schwarzsee
This is about the third stop on the way up and is after Furi. It is just up over massif that separates the high peaks from the valley floor below. In fact, as you go up the hill on the gondola ride you cannot see the Matterhorn until you just about reach Schwarzsee.
Matterhorn at the Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Mattertal and Zermatt from Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Weisshorn and other peaks from Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Denta Blanche from Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn and the Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Erick at the Zermatt – Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Another stop just before Klein Matterhorn is the Trockener Steg. It lays at around eleven thousand feet in elevation, so you will feel some relief from the elevation once you arrive here on the way back down.
Patti and the Matterhorn – Trockener Steg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Klein Matterhorn
The top of the Klein Matterhorn is a cold, snowy and glacier dominated place. It has a commanding view of the Mattertal towards Zermatt and the Aosta Valley inside Italy. From here the Matterhorn looks very different, taking on the appearance of the rest of the horns, as the high peaks in this area are called.
Breithorn – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn and its glacier – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn and its glacier – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn and its glacier – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn and its glacier – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Crystal glacier experience – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Aosta valley, Italy – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Theodul Glacier – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn and surrounding peaks – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Theodul Glacier – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti and the Aosta valley, ItalyTheodul Glacier – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Erick and Aosta valley – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise
The tunnel that has been carved out into the glacier was probably once done on behalf of scientific curiosity and has now become a tourist attraction, complete with ice carvings. An interesting, if not very cold attraction. In order to thoroughly enjoy this you should be properly dressed, it is very cold.
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Conclusion
A must see trip and not for the faint of heart. If you have issues with height, be prepared, the gondola ride brings you across chasms that are quite deep and the gondolas are complete glass, so it will seem as though you are suspended in air. Here are a few videos where you can get an appreciation for what to expect.
We really enjoyed our day on the Matterhorn Express and would recommend it to anyone with plans to visit Zermatt. This concludes our visit to Zermatt, Switzerland.
Coming into Zermatt – Zermatt, Switzerland
Erick and Patti with the Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Continuing our journeys on the eastern coast of Sicily, we arrived at Catania. A port city and working town that believe it or not, is even grittier than Naples.
Catania, a panorama – San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
Catania
Existing in the shadow of a large, ever erupting volcano, would seem like a fool’s errand. But the people of Catania do it everyday and only give it a second thought. Luckily, the volcano has not had a major eruption in some time, and since it’s monitored continuously, most people try to ignore it.
Map of Catania – Catania, Sicily
Via Etnae – Catania, Sicily
The city has at least one good park near the city center that is easy to visit. The Villa Bellini and Park Maestranze is right off of Via Etnea and has some great views of the volcano and a very quiet place to visit.
Villa Bellini – Park Maestranza – Catania, Sicily
Villa Bellini – Park Maestranza – Catania, Sicily
Villa Bellini – Park Maestranza – Catania, Sicily
Villa Bellini – Park Maestranza – Catania, Sicily
Villa Bellini – Park Maestranza – Catania, Sicily
Villa Bellini – Park Maestranza – Catania, Sicily
Villa Bellini – Park Maestranza – Catania, Sicily
Villa Bellini – Park Maestranza – Catania, Sicily
Villa Bellini – Park Maestranza – Catania, Sicily
Via Etnae – Catania, Sicily
Mount Etna
The presence of Etna is felt everywhere, from the architecture, to the items some of the shops sell, to the very grit you grind under your feet as you walk. Even though as you walk the streets and cannot see it, it will rear its ugly snow-capped head as you round a corner, or ascend some lookout in the city.
A view of Mount Etna from the roof – San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
Theaters and Baths
Many of the ruins in and around Catania contain theaters and baths from the Greek and Roman periods.
The Roman Amphitheater
A stone’s throw away from our hotel the amphitheater forces all the traffic to go around it. There is not much story behind the amphitheater other than in the fourth century the town’s people had started robbing it stones for building material. Later it was almost completely covered up by a building project in the eighteenth century. It was later rediscovered and preserved as part of an urban archeological site.
Roman Amphitheater – Catania, Sicily
Roman Amphitheater – Catania, Sicily
Roman Amphitheater – Catania, Sicily
Roman Amphitheater – Catania, Sicily
The Roman Baths
Very close to the Greek and Roman Theater are the Roman Baths. They appear to be part of a city walking audio tour, but since we did not visit the information center, we have no other details on the site.
Roman Baths of the Rotunda – Catania, Sicily
Roman Baths of the Rotunda – Catania, Sicily
The Greek and Roman Theater
Labeled the Roman Theater, it was actually established by the Greeks and later rebuilt as a Roman Theater. There is an entrance fee for this exhibit, which again seems to be repurposed for shows. Though there is ample space to take photographs to get a good idea of how it used to look.
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
Churches, Cathedral and Basilicas
There are numerous churches and other religious structures of note all throughout Catania. The most noteworthy one is the Cathedral of Catania.
Church of San Nicolò l’Arena
A large unfinished artifice is the Church of San Nicolò l’Arena. It was started in the late 17th century and interrupted by the large earthquake of 1693. The dome and inside were later completed, but the facade remains unfinished sadly even to this day.
San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
This church has a secret though, for small fee you may ascend its narrow spiral staircase to the roof for its impressive view of the city.
Tickets For Two – San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
From this perch you can also get an amazing shot at Mount Etna.
Climbing the stairs to the roof – San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
View of Catania Bay from the roof – San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
View from roof – San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
The belfry tower – San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
The roof – San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
A view of Mount Etna from the roof – San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
A view of Mount Etna and Patti from the roof – San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
A view of Mount Etna and Erick from the roof – San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
A diorama of the Benedictine Monastery – Catania, Sicily
Benedictine Monastery – Catania, Sicily
Benedictine Monastery – Catania, Sicily
it is only open for guided tours and they were completely booked up when we inquired with school groups and other tour groups. We were lucky however to get a glimpse of some of the grounds which is also used as part of the university, which holds lectures on philosophy and other classical topics.
Basilica of Saint Agatha
This basilica has a Sicilian Baroque facade that was designed by Vaccarini in the early 18th century. It has a clock tower and a large piazza outside it to support its impressive entrance.
Basilica Cathedral of Saint Agatha – Catania, Sicily
Basilica Cathedral of Saint Agatha – Catania, Sicily
The interior is very large and has ten or twelve sub-chapels along its walls. There are three main altars, the two are the sides appear to be lit at all times, while the main alter, along with its wooden pulpit is probably only used to special occasions.
Cathedral of Saint Agatha – Catania, Sicily
Cathedral of Saint Agatha – Catania, Sicily
Cathedral of Saint Agatha – Catania, Sicily
Cathedral of Saint Agatha – Catania, Sicily
Our Hotel – Hotel Liberty
This hotel is situated above the main thoroughfare of Via Etnea (Etna) and just outside what would be perceived as the nice part of the city. It is most likely, the nice part of town has moved over time and now it finds itself a bit on the margins; but it is a great four-star hotel and the rooms are really great. The staff is very courteous and knowledgeable. Irons are not in the rooms but are available for those seeking to touch up their clothes after a hard travel.
Hotel Liberty Lobby – Catania, Sicily
Hotel Liberty Bar – Catania, Sicily
Main stairwell – Hotel Liberty – Catania, Sicily
We were booked into a luxury room and upgraded to the Estasi suite, it was almost as big as our entire apartment in Turin!
Our rooms – Hotel Liberty – Catania, Sicily
Our rooms – Hotel Liberty – Catania, Sicily
Our rooms – Hotel Liberty – Catania, Sicily
Our rooms – Hotel Liberty – Catania, Sicily
Our rooms – Hotel Liberty – Catania, Sicily
Our rooms – Hotel Liberty – Catania, Sicily
Restaurants
Like any large city, Catania has a variety of restaurants to choose from, including Asian and other cuisines. Since our stay was so short we stuck with the local favorites and something new as well.
La Taverna Del Grande Albergo
This is a very good restaurant with excellent typical Sicilian food. It has a limited menu, but that’s what makes it so great. What ever is on the menu is delicious. It was so good in fact, we ate here both evenings.
Inside – La Taverna Del Grande Albergo Ristorante – Catania, Sicily
Inside – La Taverna Del Grande Albergo Ristorante – Catania, Sicily
La Taverna Del Grande Albergo Ristorante – Catania, Sicily
Ravioli stuffed with ricotta cheese, honey and pistachios – La Taverna Del Grande Albergo Ristorante – Catania, Sicily
Spaghetti with clams – La Taverna Del Grande Albergo Ristorante – Catania, Sicily
Casatta – La Taverna Del Grande Albergo Ristorante – Catania, Sicily
Forma Ristorante
A new kind of boutique restaurant, it has a select menu of typical dishes created with some style. The outside seating is under a very large tree where you can enjoy your food and the great weather. The staff is fairly energetic and responds quickly if you require any assistance or your bill. As with most establishments in Italy, you pay inside at the cashier.
Pizza Margherita and Chicken Club – Forma Ristorante – Catania, Sicily
Espresso and Sambuca – Forma Ristorante – Catania, Sicily
To my knowledge there is no analog in the United States to the custom and festival similar to the one practiced in Noto, Sicily. Each year the town and local people celebrate the Infiorata, or festival of flowers. It is one of three towns known to have such a festival, which includes the towns of Spello and Genzano.
Noto the town – Map – Noto, Sicily
Noto train station – Noto, Sicily
Noto
Noto is a world heritage UNESCO site and is well known for its cathedral and other archaeological wonders. Not only does the Noto Cathedral represent the epitome of Sicilian Baroque style, but it is the major landmark in the city. Over the years it suffered damage from repeated earthquakes and shoddy repairs, only to finally collapse in the 1990s after years of neglect. The church that stands before us today is almost a complete resurrection of the former cathedral, since only the facade and outside walls escaped destruction.
Cathedral of Noto – Noto, Sicily
It was totally destroyed in 1693 by an enormous earthquake and devastated it and the surrounding towns and villages. More than half of the residents perished in the violent event. It was later reconstructed at its current location in what is now considered the Sicilian Baroque style. Below is a slideshow with other sites that we saw while visiting, mostly churches of course.
Street from the train station into town – Noto, Sicily
Street going up into town – Noto, Sicily
Church Saint Francis of Assisi – Noto, Sicily
The street of Noto – Noto, Sicily
Palazzo Ducezio – Noto, Sicily
Church of Montevergine – Noto, Sicily
Ornate balconies – Noto, Sicily
Typical stone streets – Noto, Sicily
Another church – Noto, Sicily
Church of Saint Salvatore – Noto, Sicily
Chuch of San Salvatore – Noto, Sicily
Fontana d’Ercole – Noto, Sicily
Corso VIttorio Emanuele – Noto, Sicily
A very steep street – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata di Noto
The entrance fee on-site is 3€/person, however we booked our’s through the website and were charge 3.50€/person, plus an additional .60€ for processing. So keep in mind, obtaining your ticket early may not always be the best or most cost effective.
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
The route of the flower festival is in the center of town and includes the entire street of Via Corrado Nicolaci. This year’s theme was Italian cinema.
L’Infiorata – Finance Office – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
Patti before the flowers – L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
After taking in the flowers, the festival continues down by the Porta Reale Ferdinando and the park Villa Communale off of Corso Victoria Emanuele. Here you can buy all sorts of fair type items, from home-made nutbars, granola bars, specialized candies and other assorted items and drinks.
Porta Reale – Noto, Sicily
Everything pistachio – Noto, Sicily
Festival vendors – Noto, Sicily
Festival vendors – Noto, Sicily
Restaurants
We only ate lunch here, but the place we originally chose was closed on Tuesdays, so we had to adapt and chose another place, which was timely, because the weather was not cooperating again.
Cortes Restaurant
Situated on the main shopping thoroughfare in the middle of town is Cortes Ristorante. Here one may easily find a typical Italian dish to enjoy for lunch. I ordered an Insalate Mista and Spaghetti with garlic and oil, Patti ordered the Spaghetti with garlic and oil along with crushed pistachios. The food was very good and the prices were reasonable.
Cortes Ristorante – Noto, Sicily
Spaghetti with garlic, oil, peppenchini and with and without pistachios. Red Wine and Insalata Mista – Cortes Ristorante – Noto, Sicily
Syracuse, or Siracusa as you will find it readily marked throughout the island, is one of the first places of historic significance within Italy. It was inhabited in ancient times and finally settled by the Greeks in the early eight century BCE.
Siracusa Centrale – Siracusa, Sicily
Siracusa Centrale – Siracusa, Sicily
The original settlement of the Greeks was on the small island of Ortigia, which still contains several historical and archaeological artifacts from the Greek and Roman periods. See the Ortigia section below for more on that part of the commune and city.
Church of San Tommaso at the Pantheon – Siracuse, Sicily
Santa Lucia Seplicur – Siracuse, Sicily
Santa Lucia Seplicur – Siracuse, Sicily
Alley – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Via Dei Candelai – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Narrow alley – Siracusa, Sicily
Side street – Siracusa, Sicily
Syracuse is divided into three main parts, Ortigia the island and original Greek settlement, Santa Lucia along the coast and the location of our hotel, and the Neapolis the location of the major Greek and Roman ruins .
Ionian Sea – Siracusa, Sicily
Fort Vigliena – Siracusa, Sicily
Fort Vigliena – Siracusa, Sicily
Fort Vigliena – Siracusa, Sicily
If you are at this point wondering what ash and puppets have to do with Sicily, and in particular Syracuse, read further. Otherwise, just rest assured it has everything to do with being on this quaint and wonderful island.
Note: Purchase the Museum and Park Combination Ticket at 18€. If you purchase them separately, it will cost you an extra 8€. The combination ticket will get you into both, with money left over for a light lunch.
Archaeological Museum
The Archaeological Museum is an impressive collection of ancient, Greek and Roman artifacts dating back to the seventh and eighth centuries.
Entrance – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
The museum’s interior – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Entrance to one of its sections – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Geology – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
The museum handles each time period in a sequential fashion, starting with the ancient period of the pre-historic animals and tectonic changes to the area, all the way to the arrival of the Greeks and other colonial powers.
Tectonic plates of Italy – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Pygmied elephant and hippopotamus – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Fossils – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Fossil section – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Prehistoric inhabitants jars – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Old vases – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Dipping bowls – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Dipping bowls with stemmed handles – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Intricate vases and vessels – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Urns and other vessels – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Thapsos collection – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Bronze dagger – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
The burial sites of Pantalica – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Exhibit of a typical burial – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Monte Finocchio – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Centuripe exhibit – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Bronze spear points, buttons and other artifacts – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
The Gorgone – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
A Greek Kouros – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Megara Hyblaea exhibit – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Dioramas of Greek architecture found throughout Sicily – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Exhibit of unusual antiquated gutter system – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Dioramas of ancient Greek Structures on Sicily – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
More than one area within the south-eastern coast of Sicily is addressed, as well as other major areas to the north and in the center. In all, the museum provides an excellent historical picture of the island of Sicily.
Archaeological Park
The Archaeological Park, also known as the Neapolis Archaelogical Park of Syracuse, is situated about two and a half kilometers from the island of Ortigia. However, a brisk walk can get you there in about twenty or so minutes.
Entrance walkway – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Grotto caverns – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Tickets may be purchased at the gate, now across the newly blue painted intersection.
The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
If you follow the signs, like we did, you will be taken to group ticket sales, which will still sell you tickets, but its out of the way and you will have to walk through a path of vendors before actually finding the ticket booth.
Latomia or Grottos
When you enter the Neapolis the first thing to visit is the Grotto, or the large quarry where they used to mine stone for building. This is a huge cutout in the surrounding rock face which is about fifty or so meters in height.
A walk to the Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Small park area – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Small park area – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
It appears to have had several cave-ins in the past, which probably occurred as they were mining the stone. There is evidence of the former inhabitants leaving large columns behind in an attempt to prevent additional cave-ins from occurring. Whether they were successful or not, it is not known, there are no information signs or other historical information provided at the site.
Another section of the Grotto – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Grotto entrance – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Ear of Dionysus Grotto – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Ear of Dionysus Grotto – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Ear of Dionysus Grotto – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Ear of Dionysus Grotto – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Greek Theater
Built into the side of the hill, the Greek Theater was originally constructed in the fifth century BCE and later re-constructed several times, including by the Romans. Currently it has been further modified by the contemporary Syracusians for use as a theater again, building a scaffold like theater on top of the pre-existing Greek Theater, in order to have out-door performances and other events.
A walk to the Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The necropolis near the Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Ancient stone stairway of the Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Necropolis – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Area around the Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The renovated Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The renovated Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Behind the theater is a necropolis and grotto, both of which may be visited while visiting the structure.
The Roman Theater
The Roman Theater is found on the way out of the park complex and extends to the exit for some way.
A map of the Roman Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Roman Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Roman Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Entryway to the Roman Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Roman Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Roman Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Island Of Ortigia
Ortigia, also known as Ortygia or Citta Vecchia (old city), is an island within the city of Syracuse. It is connected to the mainland and the rest of Syracuse by two bridges, the Umbertino Bridge and the Bridge of Santa Lucia.
Umbertino Bridge – Siracusa, Sicily
Umbertino Bridge – Siracusa, Sicily
Ortea Palace Hotel at night – Siracusa, Sicily
The old market place – Via Emmanuele de Benedictus – Siracusa, Sicily
At the entrance of the ancient city is the Temple of Apollo. This is the first site anyone will see upon entering the city. Continuing around the temple visitors will automatically ascend the Corso Giacomo Matteotti, or the main street. This is the main shopping street, containing all contemporary brands and shops and will lead one to the Fountain of Diana.
Syracusae boardwalk – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Temple of Apollo – Siracusa, Sicily
Statue of Archimedes – Umbertino Bridge – Siracuse, Sicily
Temple of Apollo – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
From this traffic-circle; going to the left will take one to the Puppet museum and theater, and the eastern part of the island; going right will take one to the Piazza Duomo and the tourist shopping street, which will also take you to the Syracuse Cathedral.
Temple of Apollo – Siracusa, Sicily
Fountain of Diana – Siracusa, Sicily
Info Center – Siracusa, Sicily
Piazza Minerva – Siracusa, Sicily
Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Santa Lucia Church – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Lungomare Alfeo – Siracusa, Sicily
Arethuse Spring – Siracusa, Sicily
Papyrus Grotto – Arethuse Spring – Siracusa, Sicily
Papyrus Grotto – Arethuse Spring – Siracusa, Sicily
Church – Siracusa, Sicily
Side street – Siracusa, Sicily
Puppet Museum
This is an interesting little museum covering the history of a specific heritage of puppet making on the island of Ortigia. Therefore, the puppets are specifically built around tales and folklore of the people of Sicily.
Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
The puppets range in size from small (approx. 20cm in height), all the way to life size. There are many examples of finished products and some of contemporary origin. One display also shows the progression of making a puppet, from the carving stage through final assembly. All very instructive.
Assortment of small puppets – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Assortment of knight puppets – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Small store front to scale – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Old advertisement sign – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
A favorite puppet antagonist – The devil – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
The dwarves, smurfs and others – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
The six headed beast – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Dragons – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Horse drawn wagon and driver puppet – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Workshop puppets at different stages of finishing – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Puppet Theater
Street sign – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Entrance – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
I was originally hesitant to go the Puppet Theater. But after attending a show, I am glad I had. Not only does the host explain the tale in great detail in English, before it is performed. But the actually acting and enactment of the tale was so compelling, I was captivated, even though I had no idea what was being said at many points during the performance.
Tickets for Two – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Tickets for Two – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
The theater space is very personal, with only enough room for about 50-60 people, and they will seat others if needed in the aisle (on the steps). Therefore, if you need to take any medically necessary precautions in cramped quarters, be prepared before you arrive.
The stage in action – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
An ancient Sicilian tale – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
A demon is always close by – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Maniace Castle
The Maniace Castle sits at the tip of Ortigia and commands an open view of the Ionian Sea. It is a rather simple structure in function and betrays itself to its many uses down through the ages by its many apparent modifications, including the installation of the lighthouse.
Tickets of Two – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
Entrance – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
It is however complete with a moat, or in this case, a large drained sunken area where you can wander and only guess what it used to be like back in the day.
Layout – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
Museum – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
From a distance – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
The outside walls – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
Bay of Ortigia – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
Ionian Sea – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral Of Syracuse
In the center of Ortigia sits the Cathedral of Syracuse, a large and fairly simple structure as cathedrals go, having no real apse, but only central and left naves.
Tickets for Two – Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
The inside however is impressive and elegant and worth a visit. The outside of the cathedral displays Doric columns of the original Temple of Athena, which stood on this site prior to the building of the edifice.
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Our Hotel
Hotel Musciara Resort
For the six nights we stayed in Syracuse, we stayed at the Musciara Resort. This boutique resort is located about a 15 minute walk from Ortigia Island and has its own beach. It is a three-star hotel, but it is expertly appointed and maintained. There are only about a dozen or so rooms, so book early if interested. It is a on the pricey side, so if you are able, use points.
Entrance – Hotel Musciara Resort – Siracuse, Sicily
Lobby – Musciara Resort – Siracusa, Sicily
Though we did not use the beach at them, since there was a severe upper level low causing rain for many days, we know a set of two lounge chairs and table will cost 110€/day for those wishing to enjoy the water or work on that tan.
The cuisine of Syracuse is of course based mainly on the sea, so people who love fish will definitely enjoy themselves. There are myriads of fish to choose from, as well as octopus, squid, cuttlefish and assorted shell fish.
Trattoria Archimede
We ate lunch here and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. They have a nice garden where one can enjoy an relaxes lunch away from the hustle and bustle of Piazza Duomo.
Menu – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily
Menu – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily
Menu – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily
Menu – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily
The food is typical and simple for Sicilian cuisine. We picked basic items, along with the house wine and had a very nice lunch. The staff were attentive and had a very good grasp of English, so communicating in my broken Italian, although appreciated, was not totally necessary, our waiter spoke and understood Italian, English, French and German.
Garden – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily
Ravioli – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily
Taglierini e Ragu – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily
Ristorante Sicilia In Tavola
A gastronomic pleasure with an unpretentious interior is Ortigia’s In Tavola Ristorante.
Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Via Cavour – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Here, as with many other place, they have home-made pasta and spaghetti. However, we ordered fish, swordfish for me and mackerel for Patti. For dessert we had lemon pie and a cannolo, along with an coffee and an aperitif, the a Sicilian Amaro, for 77€ for two people.
Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Grilled Swordfish and Componata with roasted potatoes – Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Mackerel with potatoes and tomatoes – Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Cannolo with pistachio – Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Lemon Pie – Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Ristorante Cine
Having been eating Italian and SIcilian food for too long, we tried RIstorante Cine and really like it. Though the ingredients are different from what we are used to in Turin and the States (though not unusual), the owner was more than happy to alter any dishes to our tastes. We only ate lunch here and for two, we were able to order an appetizer, primi (vegetable rice) and secondi (chicken or pork or vegetables in white sauce), along with a half carafe of red wine, water, coffee and sambuca for under 30€! It is hard to beat that in a tourist area.
Ristorante Cine – Chinese restaurant – Siracusa, Sicily
Ristorante Cine – Chinese restaurant – Siracusa, Sicily
Involtino and Rice Cantonese – Ristorante Cine – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Pork and onions in brown sauce, Shrimp and onion in white sauce – Ristorante Cine – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
La Tavernetta Da Piero Fuori Ortigia
We ate lunch here on Sunday, the 21st of May, 2023, after visiting the Archaeological Park and when unbeknownst to us Mount Etna was erupting.
La Tavernetta Da Piero Fuori Ortigia Ristoranta – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Tagliatella alla pomodoro, bruschetta – La Tavernetta Da Piero Fuori Ortigia Ristoranta – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
After we finished and began walking back to the hotel, we noticed dust getting in our eyes. At the time we had no idea why and surmised that the recent bad storm had brought in dust from Africa, which can occasionally happen. When we read the next day that the Catania Airport had closed due to ash if finally dawned on us that it had been the ash from the volcano all those miles away that was the cause.
Gelateria
If you are looking for gelati in Sicily, do not buy the brightly colored ones, usually they are made of inferior ingredients. Instead, look for the Artiginale label. Though you will pay more for a cone of cup of this, it will be far more worth your while in taste later.
Levante Gelateria
Another good Gelateria, providing excellent artisanal gelati. I was particularly fond of their Amerano and Pistachio flavors.
Levante Gelateria – Siracusa, Sicily
Levante Gelati Artiginale – Pistachio and Amorano – Siracusa, Sicily
Fior Di Latte Gelati
Finding very good gelati anywhere in Italy is not a difficult task, here is no exception. It has great artiginale (artisanal) flavors, I ordered the Ortigia and Note Di Sicilia, and Patti ordered the Note Di Sicilia, Mandarin Orange and Dark Chocolate with a hint of orange.
