italy – Page 9 – Tickets For Two Plus Baggage

3 August, 20194 August, 2019

Susa – Old Roman Appeal

If one were to take Trenitalia from Turin Porta Nuova west to its logical end, one would find Susa, a quiet little alpine town built by the Gauls sometime before the Roman Empire. Excited? You should be, we were and were not disappointed.

We entered the town via the train station, an hour’s ride from our main train station in Turin. As we traveled down the Susa Valley, somewhere starting around Avigliana, we slowly became surrounded by hills, then mountains.

TurinPN_Susa_Aug_2019 — Train route down the Susa Valley

Upon reaching Susa, we were encircled by Graian Alps. , especially Rocciamelone which sits just due north of the town.

Susa_OverlookParkAugusto_Aug_2019 — Overlooking the *Park of Augusto*, with *Rocciamelone* towering overhead

We had arrived around eleven o’clock in the morning, ready for some serious tourist trekking of the town and a peak at the food festival they were having this weekend.

and before the massive food fight (tongue in cheek)

Gauls and Romans

The town, like many very old towns in Italy, enjoys a rich history dating back before and including the Roman Empire. When the Roman Empire ascended into existence after the Roman Republic, Susa became a voluntary part of it in the 1st century BC.

Susa_CesareAugustusArch_Aug_2019 — Ceasar Augustus Arch, Susa, 8 BC

The arch was positioned along the Via Cozia (today known as Via delle Gallie), the road that led to Gaul. Its age and architecture are impressive, it is also amazing that it has stood in such good shape for over two thousand years!

Susa_RomanAqueduct_Aug3_2019 — Roman Aqueduct Terme Graziane and Gates

The aqueduct above is impressive itself and was built to feed water to baths somewhere, however it actually disguises a dirty little Gaul secret. The wall that connects to it on the left masks a set of holes carved into the rocks that were supposedly used to collect blood from Gaul sacrifices. Nice right? Those Gauls knew how to party.

Susa_Patti_CivicMuseumGrounds_Aug_2019 — Patti on the grounds of the Civic Museum for Roman History

Susa Around Town

If you are not so inclined to delve deeply into the Roman history of the area, it is easy enough just to enjoy the town itself.

Susa_CathedralofSanGiusto_Aug_2019 — Cathedral of San Giusto

There is the old Cathedral of San Giusto, which was built in Romanesque style.

Susa_LookingTowards_France_Aug_2019 — Dora Riparia’s Glacial Blue color in Susa

The Dora Riparia makes its trek through Susa carrying its aquamarine glacial waters. It eventually is joined by other tributaries, especially the Cenischia, before it reaches Turin and joins the river Po.

Susa_ComuneDeSusa_Aug_2019 — Susa Torre, Comune di Susa

The Torre in Susa, a building obviously repurposed over the years.

Susa_PiazzaDellaTorre_Aug_2019 — Piazza della Torre, Susa

Pizzeria Ristorante Italia

Finally after a few hours enjoying the absolutely gorgeous weather and amazing scenery it was time for something to eat. We decided the street food we saw was not going to slake our thirst nor satiate us, so we ventured away from the center of town, which we also found much too noisy (they do allow cars to flow through it). From the Piazza Trento we walked down the via Francesco Rolando and found an obvious favorite, Pizzeria Ristorante Italia.

The restaurant was actually quite busy; the photograph above being taken before the mass of locals entered in small groups to eat their lunch. Many of which ordered the blue plate and much to our chagrin got served before ourselves. Oh well, it wasn’t like we were in a hurry, being retired is so nice…

Susa A Great One Day Adventure

We had a marvelous time in Susa and want to come back in the Fall and perhaps Winter to enjoy the change of season and their Christmas market respectively. So we encourage you, if you are ever in the vicinity of Turin, do not dismiss Susa as a possible day trip. Check their calendar first, just in case they have something special going on. Even if they don’t, a one day trip just for the history will be worth it. Until then, here are some extra photographs of Susa for your enjoyment.

Looking Southeast towards the Nature Reserve

Looking South towards the Nature Reserve

The 33rd Historical Tournament celebration party display

Fresco adorning the outside entry to the Cathedral

Image from doorway to the Museum looking towards the Nature Reserve and mountains

30 July, 2019

Avigliana – A Valley Jewel

A short trip by train just outside and to the west of Turin lies Avigliana, a medieval town some would call a small city. However, regardless of its size, it is charming nonetheless.

TurinToAvigliana — Turin Porta Nouva to Avigliana via Trenitalia

TrainStation_Avigliana_July2019 — Avigliana Train Station

We arrived on a picture perfect day with only a few clouds hovering over the mountains to the North and West and no threat of rain whatsoever in sight.

SacraDiSanMichele_Avigliana_July2019 — Abbey Sacra di San Michele

As soon as we left the train station we could see the Abbey Sacra di San Michele perched on the Monte Pirchiriano to the West. From Avigliana this is also an easy sight to visit if you are traveling by car. However, even if you are traveling by train and on foot it is also possible if you have the time. It lies some ten kilometers from town and has history that dates back to the tenth century. Our trip centered more on the historic part of town and visiting the lakes, which promised to be magnificent.

Our ascent to the town was along a more or less direct route from the train station. Instead of following the signs near the train station, we walked via San Giuseppe to via Porta Ferrata. Once you reach the fork in the road take the right branch which will bring you to the Church of Santa Croce and an uncommon overlook of the Susa Valley. Coming back down and continuing a bit further we came across the Porta Ferrata, an old medieval gate that dates back to the 13th century.

PrattoDelRio_MtMusine_Avigliana_July2019 — Panoramic view from the overlook at the Church of Santa Croce

We had now spent a little over an hour walking through the narrow streets and alleys, exploring those little areas that afforded us access. From the spine of the hill on which the town sits, one can get some great photographs of the mountains, including historic landmarks.

TorreDiOrologio_ParrochiaSSGiovanniEPietro_Avigliana_July2019 — From via Dell’Orologio the Torre dell’Orologio and cupola of the Parrochia SS. Giovanni e Pietro

From the via dell’Orologio we quickly descended the historic center of town to make our way to the lakes. (It is best before you leave to download any maps as well as familiarize yourself with your overall route. We found cellular service in the town a bit spotty, so if you are addicted to travel-by-phone only, you may run into difficulties and feel lost at times.) However, if you are lucky enough to find the main road, via Garibaldi that leads to Corso Laghi, you are all set; the maar lakes are South on that road.

LagoGrande_Avigliana_July2019 — Lago Grande di Avigliana

After about a fifteen or twenty-minute walk we came across the first lake, Lago Grande, meaning “large lake”. The term maar comes from the fact that both of these lakes are essentially volcanic craters. The volcanoes are of course extinct, but since the lava domes they once had have collapsed, the depressions have filled with water making these amazing lakes. The green tint comes from a mixture of mountain glacier runoff and algae. However they got there, on a beautiful sunny day they are just amazing to see and enjoy.

Residents must enjoy the peace the lakes and mountains offer them since it appears that no motorboats are allowed on the them, only sailboats and others that require human power. We also witnessed several people swimming the width of the large lake which must be close to one kilometer. There is also a diving school on the East bank of the large lake where you can take diving lessons. Though we were within a short walk to the smaller lake we decided not to go, We had both walked over three miles and were starting to get a bit tired.

GriffinPatricia_LagoGrande_Avigliana_Juli2019 — Patti enjoying the weather and a rest from all of our walking

The stroll back into town took another twenty or so minutes and we were now both hungry and looking for something to eat. We had thought about eating somewhere along the lake, but none of the restaurant menus there appealed to us. So we headed for the main piazza in town, piazza Conte Rosso.

ParrocchiaSSGiovanniEPietro_Avigliana_July2019 — Chiesa de San Giovanni

Retracing our route back to the piazza and up the long street stairs of via Garibaldi we see the Church of San Giovanni from under the Porta San Giovanni. The church stands there almost confused that it is no longer held up on the one side by a building that most likely once stood there. It most likely had been torn down centuries ago, but the scars from its lost companion are still obvious in the relentless sun. The facade, which one must say is somewhat unique, dates back to the 14th and 15th centuries and seems to borrow from several styles.

PiazzaConteRosso_Castello_Avigliana_July2019 — Piazza Conte Rosso

Piazza Conte Rosso is a working piazza, with cars co-mingling with pedestrians. From here one can see the ruins of the old castle on the hill, Castello di Avigliana. There are also several caffés and bars here, as well as the restaurant, San Michele.

RistoranteStMichele_Avigliana_July2019 — Ristorante San Michele

The food at Ristorante San Michele is very good and moderately expensive. There are daily specials and several dishes that are unique to the Piedmont. They also serve bio wine which is environmentally friendly, from the Piedmont, quite unique and is very, very good!

If you are in the area of the Piedmont or Turin and have a few hours or a day extra, then Avigliana might be a very relaxing choice for you. There is definitely enough to see and do, you can rent boats on the lakes and swim, and there is more than enough to eat and drink.

Here are some other photographs, enjoy!

13 July, 201923 August, 2020

Cinque Terre – Manarola & Corniglia

Our plans for visiting Cinque Terre were for spending most of our time in Monterosso, which we felt was the more livable town, and visit the other four. First, Vernazza by hiking to it from Monterosso, then taking the train and by-passing the subject towns to have lunch in Riomaggiore. Subsequently, taking the train indirectly back to Monterosso by way of the other two smaller towns quickly in the afternoon. This means that even with an approximately two-hour hike in the morning to Vernazza, you too can visit all the towns this way too!

Manarola

Manarola being a smaller town has few things to do, but its a colorful little town and is busy with activity.

Manarola will also remind you that it’s still a working fishing port, or that’s what they want you to believe at least. As you head toward the old port you will increasingly come across boats that have been dragged up from the shore and stored along the street sides.

Of course there is always the sea to visit and a short walk down to the seaside is a must.

20190710_141859 — Taking In The Seaside Is A Must, Here Swimmers Can Dive From The Rocks

20190710_141903 — There Were Plenty People Swimming Even Though There Was Technically No Beach

If you have to eat in Manarola we can definitely suggest the old Cinque Terre Gelateria, they have gelato, unlike some others we have come across (and there is bad tourist gelato around), that is just amazing.

20190710_143423 — Cinque Terre Gelateria – A Big Thumbs UP!

Corniglia

After jumping on the train again we found ourselves in the last of the five towns, Corniglia.

20190710_144250 — Corniglia Train Station

This town has the dubious distinction of having four hundred plus steps to reach it from the train station. While my wife Patti and daughter Ericka decided it was a bit too hot to attempt to summit our last town, I took on the challenge.

20190710_144750 — A long walk awaits you prior to your climb

In the baking heat, and it was reaching low to mid 90’s each day here, before you even reach the stairs you are, shall we say, uncomfortable.

20190710_145101 — The stairs switchback and forth

20190710_145605 — If you climb too far, this will remind you its the start of a trail too!

The stairs are well-kept and there is some shade along the way where you can rest. Since I am no longer in my twenties, I availed myself of the shade twice (before I blew a blood vessel or suffered a stroke). Fortunately when you reach the top the town has strategically placed a fountain where one can top off their bottle of water (thank you!). If you continue you will quickly realize by the signs that you have gone the wrong way and you will meet the customary trail signs to the next town. Turning around you should notice the town and your mistake.

Getting to the center requires a little navigation, but you will eventually pop out close to the town center and where the bus stop is. Even climbing the steps and taking several short breaks I was still able to beat my wife and daughter to the town center, but I admit that was on a busy touristy day!

20190710_151549 — The Cappella dei Flagellati Corniglia

Climbing the stairs to the right of this church yields an uncomprimising view of the water.

…and that just about sums up our visit to Cinque Terre. Though a lot of traveling is involved, walking, hiking, climbing and sittings on buses and trains it is more a less worth it. However, one can also make the argument that it is a bit of a manufactured tourist trap and part of an industry to help the locals out and/or inconvenience them, some times its difficult to tell. We leave that thought for the reader to consider before visiting.

12 July, 201923 August, 2020

Cinque Terre – Riomaggiore

In order to enter the park for hiking between the towns, you have to purchase tickets. These will give you trail access and can be purchased at the National Park Service counter at the train station.

These same tickets give you complete shuttle bus and train service between the five towns as well. Even if you don’t hike, this is probably your best travel option at 16€ per person.

We took the train from Vernazza to Riomaggiore and in order to get to the town center, you must walk through a tunnel.

The main street looks similar to the other towns, perhaps with a bit more vertical pitch.

The climb up to the castle is a bit long and on a hot day can be somewhat oppressive.

You cannot miss it, there is a big clock on it!

There are benches and an overlook to the right, once you reach the top.

If you are looking for narrow stairways or alleys, there are plenty of those to explore. After our long hike and short train ride, we actually ate lunch here as well and can recommend Veciu Muin.

11 July, 201923 August, 2020

Cinque Terre – Vernazza

Vernazza is not so much about the town itself as getting there, the old fashion way, by foot! You may also choose the train, ferry or car, but you would be missing out on adventure and some great views.

On the second day of our visit in Monterosso, our plans were to attempt the hike, approximated by the Park Service as two hours in length, to Vernazza. I had purchased the customary cheap hat for the occasion and am glad I did, for even the early mid-day sun is unrelenting here.

The trail to start with is somewhat improved on both ends, but quickly deteriorates and is at best modestly kept by the park service. The stairs are long and very steep in some sections and the trail drops off precipitously on one side in many areas. We saw many people in difficulty from time to time, so it’s best to be in at least moderate shape to attempt, as well as enjoy it.

The views once up on the cliffs are amazing.

There are also some surprises, including an arched bridge over a stream which affords one a photo-op.

The trail can be treacherous, but the sights extraordinary – Vernazza in the distance

The trail sign along the way is marked with white/red stripes. Follow these in either direction and you are on the coastal path! After one 1/2 liter bottle each of water, the sight and signs of Vernazza grow clearer.

Trail signs, they are there, pay attention

After descending the requisite number of steps, you finally emerge into Vernazza, trail beaten, but there!

The town itself is very small but the swimming looks great. The water is crystal clear though the beach somewhat wanting for real sand as in Monterosso.

One of the more expansive views you will get in this town, is by the beach.

The town itself is an inter-connected series of narrow alleys with one main street; where all the shops and cafes are.

The side streets are quiet; the main street mayhem

An interesting little town, but probably better to visit during the Winter months, since during our time here, it appeared overwhelmed; at least on the main street by tourism.

11 July, 201923 August, 2020

Cinque Terre – Monterosso

Our visit to the Cinque Terre starts with Monterosso, our home base for this adventure in food, wine, hiking and sightseeing.

We arrived here via the Inter-city train from Turin, our home town. A leisurely ride of about two hours, which to us is much better than driving and stress-free. Our hotel is the 3 star Hotel Margherita, which provides spartan, clean and adequate accomodations in the heart of town, with breakfast included, for more than a fair price (it’s also air-conditioned).

The seaside is amazing and provides both free public beach and paid accomodations and access for those willing to pay more; including cafe delivery to your chair. Even though a tourist destination itself, it’s big enough to more than handle the influx of tourists, one of the main reasons we chose it.

The town of course is very colorful and will remind some of the brightly painted styles of Bermuda and the Caribbean. The town also grows flowers everywhere!

You are free to wander about as you like, there are few impediments. However, if you venture too far, as in the other towns of Cinque Terre, you will run out of real estate quickly or face a stair climb that leads you nowhere.

It is all worth it though for the great views and fabulous Italian cuisine, especially the seafood. As one can imagine being next to the sea, octopus and shrimp, as well as daily fish is on every menu. There are of course the regional favorites and pasta is always on the menu. For wine, there are many local favorites, including one from Cinque Terre itself, which was served at the bar of our hotel for 5€ a glass and is very good. One can always find other great wines, including Amarones. So wine with dinner is always no problem.

The above is the town from the start of the Nature Preserve hiking trail to Vernazza. More on hiking and the other towns in this pentagonous coastal favorite later…

9 July, 201923 August, 2020

Sestri Levante – Quiet Pleasure

Traveling through Italy, especially along the coasts and especially during the Summer months, one usually expects a throng of tourists where ever one goes. We had just such an expectation when we arrived in Sestri Levante, a quaint little town just south of Chiavari.

We were however pleasantly surprised to the contrary. Yes there are tourists, including ourselves and others from Europe. However the bulk of tourists here appear to be Italian. So this may be one of their secrets.

The town itself has an obvious appeal, though not very big it is very colorful and seems to have all the amenities.

The beach is without a doubt very rocky in places, but the town and hotels take care to rake them to make your visit more enjoyable.

Finding places to eat is also not a problem. There are very good restaurants at the two four star hotels near the beach, as well as Osterias, Caffes and Pizzerias on many of the small side streets.

We enjoyed our three days here relaxing on the beach and uncrowded surf. Definitely high on our list for a return trip.

18 June, 201918 June, 2019

Rivoli – Simple Pleasures

After reading several reviews and actually knowing someone in the states that has the last name Rivoli, my wife and I decided on a road trip today to that namesake.

From Turin‘s Porta Nuova (Turin‘s main train station) we traveled using Trenitalia‘s service to Susa (not to be confused with Porta Susa in Turin), getting off at Alpignano. Then after going under the railroad tracks using the tunnel, since we were disembarked on track 2, we took the GTT 1432 bus from Piazza Tulio Robotti for eight to ten minutes to Rivoli at Fermata 13264 on via Don Murialdo.

BemahltesHäuser_Rivoli_2019 — The narrow streets of Rivoli

Once you step off the bus and find your bearings you begin to realize that you need to ascend a hill, your ultimate destination being the old Savoia Castel and new Museum of Contemporary Art. Passing many shops and colorful buildings, some needing ownerships, others busy with activity, you slowing ascend the via Fratelli Piol, or main street.

The city itself is actually very well-kept, like other Piedmontese, they obviously have some pride in keeping their community clean. I admit it must be a struggle for them as well as other communities, from what we’ve seen, but this seems not to deter them. The Europeans as a whole still seem to feel they have a right to just pollute and it will not affect them (I will write another article, specific to Turin, on this later), even though they vote and their government seems to do otherwise.

ChiesaSantaCroce_Rivoli_2019 — Chiese Santa Croce

After some walking, browsing and curious on looking into shop windows, one will arrive at a fork in the road and clearly see the Church of Santa Croce. A cinnamon and stout marvel of Christianity. With a mural of Christ with his cross above the large wooden doors, but no longer owned by the Catholic Church, but rather the Res Publica – Galleria d’Arte Democratica for art exhibitions and shows.

GrandeRistoranteDelCastello_Rivoli_2019 — The Old Grande Ristorante del Castello

Upon reaching the top of the hill you arrive at the old castle, or the Castello di Rivoli. Built by the Savoia and houses the Museum of Contemporary Art it is well worth the travel and the climb.

It commands an amazing view of the surrounding area as well as Turin and other parts of Rivoli itself.

bersichtTorinoVonDerCastello_Rivoli_2019 — A view of Turin afar, as viewed on a smoggy day from the Castle

When one faces the East North East one also enjoys an amazing view of the Alps too!

bersichtDenAlpen_Rivoli_2019 — A semi-clear view of the Alps, yes they are close here

I will admit the day was somewhat warm and humid.

bersichtKircheUndTorino_Rivoli_2019 — Another view with Chiesa Collegiata di Santa Maria della Stella

However, compared to North Carolina standards, at fifty percent humidity, it was not totally intolerable. We would therefore call this a warm day, though uncomfortable. Some other sites on our descent included the following.

It was time to eat, being both hungry and a bit dehydrated from the climb, we searched for a place that served both simple but filling fare. We found the Caffé Roxy where we were able to order what we call in the States, flat breads with salami, drinks (both wine and water) as well as dessert, caffe and aperitif, all for 24€. Not a bad deal and the service was excellent as well!

RoxyCafe_Rivoli_2019 — Caffé Roxy on the way up to the castle

After a full stomach and enough shopping we had had our fill of Rivoli and it was time to leave. This is where we caution everyone about the deplorable state of some of the fermatas or bus stops in Italy, you just cannot read some of them or they are CLEARLY WRONG. Pay attention to the numbers that are marked on them. The information that your internet application has is probably correct. Also, do NOT have an expectation of bus color or that you will see a bus number when it approaches, ALWAYS ASK THE DRIVER, especially when you are in an out-of-the-way place. It will make your life so much easier, though a bit uncomfortable (since you will have to use your limited Italian.)

TicketsForTwo_Rivoli_2019_skaliert — Tickets for Two

After crossing Corso Francia multiple times between Fermata 2794 and 2823 and feeling like fools, we finally caught the bus we wanted for Alpignano, albeit on the wrong side of that street.

We finally arrived at the station with plenty of time to spare, stamped our tickets, and waited for our train, which of course was five minutes late – but, it did arrive! Buona giornata!

13 June, 201923 August, 2020

Turin – Piolas – Caffe Vini Emilio Ranzini

CaffeViniEmilioRanzini_6_tiny — The Menu

Occasionally, you come across a restaurant, caffe or bar which just hits all the buttons correctly. For us this occurred last evening at Caffe Vini Emilio Ranzini.

I don’t want to call this place a hole in the wall, but that is the first impression a foreigner, an American, will have. All in all it might measure twenty by thirty feet inside, sixty or seventy square feet maximum, including the bar. But, the food is unmatched by other restaurants much larger in size. So, either there is a huge kitchen somewhere we could not see, or the chef is a magician.

To be honest, there is an outdoor patio in the back where they are able to seat perhaps another forty or so guests. We were fortunate this evening to get our own table inside next to the door and near the bar, to watch all the comings and goings (people watching is an acceptable hobby in Italy.)

A Piola Menu

As can be seen by the rather large display above, the menu is displayed on the wall. This is typical for a Piola, a Torinese-style restaurant that has daily offers of food at reasonable prices (or in Italian, a termine piemontese dal significato di osteria, bar).

CaffeViniEmilioRanzini_4 — Tagliere of Salumi and Formaggi, along with other great stuff to eat

For our dinner we selected the Salami and Cheese plate for two. To accompany this, we also ordered the vinegar roasted zucchini squash, roasted peppers and Polpette di Carni (or hot meatballs).

The meat tasted as one would expect, a nice selection of salami and prosciutto. The cheese selection was very good, especially the blue cheese which reminded us of a Stilton and the other whiter cheese above which reminded us of a sharp white cheddar.

CaffeViniEmilioRanzini_5 — Nizza, San Luigi, 2015 – DOCG

The meatballs and zucchini were to die for. It was actually difficult to tell what kind of meat, were in the meatballs (and frankly we were afraid to ask since horsemeat is an acceptable meat in Italy.) But, the spices and the particular way in which they were cooked (it looked like deep-frying but not sure it was), was very tasty. The squash on the other hand was served cold, but the vinegar gave it such a pop in your mouth, you wanted to order more.

The Wine

This specific place also sports a rather nice wine list. Since we were looking for something red to pair with the meatballs, salami and cheese, we went with a nice Barbera. The Nizza from San Luigi, 2015 was an excellent choice. Dry and aromatic with fruity overtones of cherry, it combined very nicely with our meal. A wine which is sure on my short list of choices when I visit my local wine store in the future!

In Conclusion

Though it was our evening out to celebrate our 37th anniversary, we had expected to spend a bit more. So, when the bill came and it came to a total of 37€, we were delightfully surprised. Not only because we thought it so inexpensive, but that we got such good food and atmosphere at such an affordable and reasonable price.

CaffeViniEmilioRanzini_1 — The bar at Caffe Vivi Emilio Ranzini

We are sure the menu changes often, weekly at least, perhaps even daily. Our plans are to go back for lunch. One word of caution. They do have Summer hours (9:30-2:30, 5:30-8:30) starting in June, which are reduced from the hours posted on Google. However, we would recommend this place for either lunch or dinner and it’s just two blocks off of via Garibaldi!

5.0 stars!

12 June, 201923 August, 2020

Turin – Museum Reali – Da Vinci Exhibit

MuseumFront — Museum Reali – Main Entrance

For the next few months, the Museum Reali here in Turin is sponsoring an exhibit of some of Leonardo da Vinci’s works. TicketsForTwo So my wife and I thought it would be a great opportunity to see the originals of his work for which up to now we have only been fortunate enough to see in books.

The tickets are actually purchased at the ticket office, for which there are plenty of signs to point you in the correct direction (you shouldn’t get lost.) The entrance fee is a bit high, 15€/person, but we thought it is Leonardo and his works usually do not disappoint. So we purchased our tickets and headed to the museum.

One word of caution, though it is advertised that there are some fifty plus works in the collection, they are not all produced by Leonardo. Some are only attributed to him through his working with colleagues and apprentices. So one must pay attention to the note cards for each piece or, if you have paid for it, the audio headset (we no longer get these since we have always found them not to work very well.)

Dioramas and Models

The collection boasts of a few models and dioramas which the visitor can enjoy. Though not directly built by Leonardo, they are from designs that he had put forth in his many notebooks and journals.

ScythedChariot — Allesandro Siriati’s – Scythed Chariot, 1956

Anatomical Studies and Drawings

Most the of original Leonardo works have to do with his studies of human and animal forms. He was particularly adept at musculature and studies of the face.

C_HerculesAndNemeanLion — Hercules with the Nemean Lion, 1505-08

According to the museum, the above drawing was probably an initial sketch for a proposed statue that never was made. It was apparently destined to stand next to his statue of David in Florence once it was completed.

D_MaleHeadLaurelWreath — da Vinci – Male head in profile with a Laurel, 1506-11

There are several sketches and drawings of the human head. Some, like the above, just to capture the heroic nature of some of his models. Others for more exact studies into the human proportions of the face and all of its parts.

E_StudiesOfAHead — da Vinci – Studies of the Proportions of the Face and of the Eye, 1489-90

The one on the left above was a study in the proportions of the eye. This was subsequently glued onto another sheet to join it to his study of the proportions of the overall face. Both show Leonardo‘s interest in the mathematical proportions of his subjects and how they were involved with one’s ability to see, providing us evidence of his overall curiosity of the human condition.

G_DaVinciSelfPortrait — da Vinci – Self Portrait, 1517-18

The portrait to the left is described by the museum as being a self-portrait of the master himself. Though an obviously brilliant work with its economy of lines, etc., it does evoke a sense of wonder as to whether he could have achieved such details from himself, given the deplorable state of mirror technology at that time. It is also very possible that it is either his idealistic image of himself or perhaps more likely of a philosopher of old. In either case it has become our accepted representation of the master who has earned the right to be so represented by his enormous collection of works and detailed analysis of everything he had undertaken.

Poetry and Literary Works

Though actually not known for it, Leonardo did some writing. The museum has several examples of his poetry on display.

F_LeonardoPainting — Autographed Sonnet with Self Portrait while Frescoing the Ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, 1508-12

The most notable of which is the self-portrait above. The sonnet describes Leonardo‘s “Beard in the Sky” position while painting the Sistine Chapel.

Flight and More Familiar Works

Mechanics seemed to have been one of Leonardo‘s passions. Most of use are somewhat acquainted with his works on the subjects. Even the Wright Brothers read his works on the subjects as an introduction to flight mechanics.

H_CodexOnBirdFlight_2 — da Vinci – Codex Atlanticus, 1493-94

In the above codex Leonardo explored the mechanics and structure of the bird wing. He was very interested in how this could be expressed mechanically with the use of wood and rope. The above design is also articulated in a model which hangs very near the above sketch.

H_CodexOnBirdFlight — da Vinci – Codex on the Flight of Birds, 1505

Finally his Codex on the Flight of Birds goes into great detail. There are some eighteen or so pages of documentation around this subject for which he had hope to pull together into a book on the subject, but never completed it.

Conclusion

An excellent primer on Leonardo‘s studies, as well as his excellent ability for detailing with pen and ink. There is also a short video on how the writing instruments and inks were developed in that time period which we found very informative.

Though a bit expensive, if you are at all curious and can afford it we think it worth the time and expense.