To my knowledge there is no analog in the United States to the custom and festival similar to the one practiced in Noto, Sicily. Each year the town and local people celebrate the Infiorata, or festival of flowers. It is one of three towns known to have such a festival, which includes the towns of Spello and Genzano.
Noto the town – Map – Noto, Sicily
Noto train station – Noto, Sicily
Noto
Noto is a world heritage UNESCO site and is well known for its cathedral and other archaeological wonders. Not only does the Noto Cathedral represent the epitome of Sicilian Baroque style, but it is the major landmark in the city. Over the years it suffered damage from repeated earthquakes and shoddy repairs, only to finally collapse in the 1990s after years of neglect. The church that stands before us today is almost a complete resurrection of the former cathedral, since only the facade and outside walls escaped destruction.
Cathedral of Noto – Noto, Sicily
It was totally destroyed in 1693 by an enormous earthquake and devastated it and the surrounding towns and villages. More than half of the residents perished in the violent event. It was later reconstructed at its current location in what is now considered the Sicilian Baroque style. Below is a slideshow with other sites that we saw while visiting, mostly churches of course.
Street from the train station into town – Noto, Sicily
Street going up into town – Noto, Sicily
Church Saint Francis of Assisi – Noto, Sicily
The street of Noto – Noto, Sicily
Palazzo Ducezio – Noto, Sicily
Church of Montevergine – Noto, Sicily
Ornate balconies – Noto, Sicily
Typical stone streets – Noto, Sicily
Another church – Noto, Sicily
Church of Saint Salvatore – Noto, Sicily
Chuch of San Salvatore – Noto, Sicily
Fontana d’Ercole – Noto, Sicily
Corso VIttorio Emanuele – Noto, Sicily
A very steep street – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata di Noto
The entrance fee on-site is 3€/person, however we booked our’s through the website and were charge 3.50€/person, plus an additional .60€ for processing. So keep in mind, obtaining your ticket early may not always be the best or most cost effective.
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
The route of the flower festival is in the center of town and includes the entire street of Via Corrado Nicolaci. This year’s theme was Italian cinema.
L’Infiorata – Finance Office – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
Patti before the flowers – L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
L’Infiorata – Via Corrado Nicolaci – Noto, Sicily
After taking in the flowers, the festival continues down by the Porta Reale Ferdinando and the park Villa Communale off of Corso Victoria Emanuele. Here you can buy all sorts of fair type items, from home-made nutbars, granola bars, specialized candies and other assorted items and drinks.
Porta Reale – Noto, Sicily
Everything pistachio – Noto, Sicily
Festival vendors – Noto, Sicily
Festival vendors – Noto, Sicily
Restaurants
We only ate lunch here, but the place we originally chose was closed on Tuesdays, so we had to adapt and chose another place, which was timely, because the weather was not cooperating again.
Cortes Restaurant
Situated on the main shopping thoroughfare in the middle of town is Cortes Ristorante. Here one may easily find a typical Italian dish to enjoy for lunch. I ordered an Insalate Mista and Spaghetti with garlic and oil, Patti ordered the Spaghetti with garlic and oil along with crushed pistachios. The food was very good and the prices were reasonable.
Cortes Ristorante – Noto, Sicily
Spaghetti with garlic, oil, peppenchini and with and without pistachios. Red Wine and Insalata Mista – Cortes Ristorante – Noto, Sicily
Syracuse, or Siracusa as you will find it readily marked throughout the island, is one of the first places of historic significance within Italy. It was inhabited in ancient times and finally settled by the Greeks in the early eight century BCE.
Siracusa Centrale – Siracusa, Sicily
Siracusa Centrale – Siracusa, Sicily
The original settlement of the Greeks was on the small island of Ortigia, which still contains several historical and archaeological artifacts from the Greek and Roman periods. See the Ortigia section below for more on that part of the commune and city.
Church of San Tommaso at the Pantheon – Siracuse, Sicily
Santa Lucia Seplicur – Siracuse, Sicily
Santa Lucia Seplicur – Siracuse, Sicily
Alley – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Via Dei Candelai – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Narrow alley – Siracusa, Sicily
Side street – Siracusa, Sicily
Syracuse is divided into three main parts, Ortigia the island and original Greek settlement, Santa Lucia along the coast and the location of our hotel, and the Neapolis the location of the major Greek and Roman ruins .
Ionian Sea – Siracusa, Sicily
Fort Vigliena – Siracusa, Sicily
Fort Vigliena – Siracusa, Sicily
Fort Vigliena – Siracusa, Sicily
If you are at this point wondering what ash and puppets have to do with Sicily, and in particular Syracuse, read further. Otherwise, just rest assured it has everything to do with being on this quaint and wonderful island.
Note: Purchase the Museum and Park Combination Ticket at 18€. If you purchase them separately, it will cost you an extra 8€. The combination ticket will get you into both, with money left over for a light lunch.
Archaeological Museum
The Archaeological Museum is an impressive collection of ancient, Greek and Roman artifacts dating back to the seventh and eighth centuries.
Entrance – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
The museum’s interior – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Entrance to one of its sections – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Geology – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
The museum handles each time period in a sequential fashion, starting with the ancient period of the pre-historic animals and tectonic changes to the area, all the way to the arrival of the Greeks and other colonial powers.
Tectonic plates of Italy – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Pygmied elephant and hippopotamus – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Fossils – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Fossil section – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Prehistoric inhabitants jars – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Old vases – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Dipping bowls – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Dipping bowls with stemmed handles – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Intricate vases and vessels – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Urns and other vessels – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Thapsos collection – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Bronze dagger – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
The burial sites of Pantalica – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Exhibit of a typical burial – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Monte Finocchio – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Centuripe exhibit – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Bronze spear points, buttons and other artifacts – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
The Gorgone – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
A Greek Kouros – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Megara Hyblaea exhibit – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Dioramas of Greek architecture found throughout Sicily – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Exhibit of unusual antiquated gutter system – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Dioramas of ancient Greek Structures on Sicily – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
More than one area within the south-eastern coast of Sicily is addressed, as well as other major areas to the north and in the center. In all, the museum provides an excellent historical picture of the island of Sicily.
Archaeological Park
The Archaeological Park, also known as the Neapolis Archaelogical Park of Syracuse, is situated about two and a half kilometers from the island of Ortigia. However, a brisk walk can get you there in about twenty or so minutes.
Entrance walkway – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Grotto caverns – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Tickets may be purchased at the gate, now across the newly blue painted intersection.
The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
If you follow the signs, like we did, you will be taken to group ticket sales, which will still sell you tickets, but its out of the way and you will have to walk through a path of vendors before actually finding the ticket booth.
Latomia or Grottos
When you enter the Neapolis the first thing to visit is the Grotto, or the large quarry where they used to mine stone for building. This is a huge cutout in the surrounding rock face which is about fifty or so meters in height.
A walk to the Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Small park area – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Small park area – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
It appears to have had several cave-ins in the past, which probably occurred as they were mining the stone. There is evidence of the former inhabitants leaving large columns behind in an attempt to prevent additional cave-ins from occurring. Whether they were successful or not, it is not known, there are no information signs or other historical information provided at the site.
Another section of the Grotto – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Grotto entrance – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Ear of Dionysus Grotto – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Ear of Dionysus Grotto – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Ear of Dionysus Grotto – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Ear of Dionysus Grotto – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Greek Theater
Built into the side of the hill, the Greek Theater was originally constructed in the fifth century BCE and later re-constructed several times, including by the Romans. Currently it has been further modified by the contemporary Syracusians for use as a theater again, building a scaffold like theater on top of the pre-existing Greek Theater, in order to have out-door performances and other events.
A walk to the Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The necropolis near the Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Ancient stone stairway of the Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Necropolis – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Area around the Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The renovated Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The renovated Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Behind the theater is a necropolis and grotto, both of which may be visited while visiting the structure.
The Roman Theater
The Roman Theater is found on the way out of the park complex and extends to the exit for some way.
A map of the Roman Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Roman Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Roman Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Entryway to the Roman Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Roman Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Roman Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Island Of Ortigia
Ortigia, also known as Ortygia or Citta Vecchia (old city), is an island within the city of Syracuse. It is connected to the mainland and the rest of Syracuse by two bridges, the Umbertino Bridge and the Bridge of Santa Lucia.
Umbertino Bridge – Siracusa, Sicily
Umbertino Bridge – Siracusa, Sicily
Ortea Palace Hotel at night – Siracusa, Sicily
The old market place – Via Emmanuele de Benedictus – Siracusa, Sicily
At the entrance of the ancient city is the Temple of Apollo. This is the first site anyone will see upon entering the city. Continuing around the temple visitors will automatically ascend the Corso Giacomo Matteotti, or the main street. This is the main shopping street, containing all contemporary brands and shops and will lead one to the Fountain of Diana.
Syracusae boardwalk – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Temple of Apollo – Siracusa, Sicily
Statue of Archimedes – Umbertino Bridge – Siracuse, Sicily
Temple of Apollo – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
From this traffic-circle; going to the left will take one to the Puppet museum and theater, and the eastern part of the island; going right will take one to the Piazza Duomo and the tourist shopping street, which will also take you to the Syracuse Cathedral.
Temple of Apollo – Siracusa, Sicily
Fountain of Diana – Siracusa, Sicily
Info Center – Siracusa, Sicily
Piazza Minerva – Siracusa, Sicily
Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Santa Lucia Church – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Lungomare Alfeo – Siracusa, Sicily
Arethuse Spring – Siracusa, Sicily
Papyrus Grotto – Arethuse Spring – Siracusa, Sicily
Papyrus Grotto – Arethuse Spring – Siracusa, Sicily
Church – Siracusa, Sicily
Side street – Siracusa, Sicily
Puppet Museum
This is an interesting little museum covering the history of a specific heritage of puppet making on the island of Ortigia. Therefore, the puppets are specifically built around tales and folklore of the people of Sicily.
Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
The puppets range in size from small (approx. 20cm in height), all the way to life size. There are many examples of finished products and some of contemporary origin. One display also shows the progression of making a puppet, from the carving stage through final assembly. All very instructive.
Assortment of small puppets – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Assortment of knight puppets – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Small store front to scale – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Old advertisement sign – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
A favorite puppet antagonist – The devil – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
The dwarves, smurfs and others – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
The six headed beast – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Dragons – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Horse drawn wagon and driver puppet – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Workshop puppets at different stages of finishing – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Puppet Theater
Street sign – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Entrance – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
I was originally hesitant to go the Puppet Theater. But after attending a show, I am glad I had. Not only does the host explain the tale in great detail in English, before it is performed. But the actually acting and enactment of the tale was so compelling, I was captivated, even though I had no idea what was being said at many points during the performance.
Tickets for Two – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Tickets for Two – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
The theater space is very personal, with only enough room for about 50-60 people, and they will seat others if needed in the aisle (on the steps). Therefore, if you need to take any medically necessary precautions in cramped quarters, be prepared before you arrive.
The stage in action – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
An ancient Sicilian tale – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
A demon is always close by – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Maniace Castle
The Maniace Castle sits at the tip of Ortigia and commands an open view of the Ionian Sea. It is a rather simple structure in function and betrays itself to its many uses down through the ages by its many apparent modifications, including the installation of the lighthouse.
Tickets of Two – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
Entrance – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
It is however complete with a moat, or in this case, a large drained sunken area where you can wander and only guess what it used to be like back in the day.
Layout – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
Museum – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
From a distance – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
The outside walls – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
Bay of Ortigia – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
Ionian Sea – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral Of Syracuse
In the center of Ortigia sits the Cathedral of Syracuse, a large and fairly simple structure as cathedrals go, having no real apse, but only central and left naves.
Tickets for Two – Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
The inside however is impressive and elegant and worth a visit. The outside of the cathedral displays Doric columns of the original Temple of Athena, which stood on this site prior to the building of the edifice.
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Our Hotel
Hotel Musciara Resort
For the six nights we stayed in Syracuse, we stayed at the Musciara Resort. This boutique resort is located about a 15 minute walk from Ortigia Island and has its own beach. It is a three-star hotel, but it is expertly appointed and maintained. There are only about a dozen or so rooms, so book early if interested. It is a on the pricey side, so if you are able, use points.
Entrance – Hotel Musciara Resort – Siracuse, Sicily
Lobby – Musciara Resort – Siracusa, Sicily
Though we did not use the beach at them, since there was a severe upper level low causing rain for many days, we know a set of two lounge chairs and table will cost 110€/day for those wishing to enjoy the water or work on that tan.
The cuisine of Syracuse is of course based mainly on the sea, so people who love fish will definitely enjoy themselves. There are myriads of fish to choose from, as well as octopus, squid, cuttlefish and assorted shell fish.
Trattoria Archimede
We ate lunch here and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. They have a nice garden where one can enjoy an relaxes lunch away from the hustle and bustle of Piazza Duomo.
Menu – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily
Menu – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily
Menu – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily
Menu – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily
The food is typical and simple for Sicilian cuisine. We picked basic items, along with the house wine and had a very nice lunch. The staff were attentive and had a very good grasp of English, so communicating in my broken Italian, although appreciated, was not totally necessary, our waiter spoke and understood Italian, English, French and German.
Garden – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily
Ravioli – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily
Taglierini e Ragu – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily
Ristorante Sicilia In Tavola
A gastronomic pleasure with an unpretentious interior is Ortigia’s In Tavola Ristorante.
Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Via Cavour – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Here, as with many other place, they have home-made pasta and spaghetti. However, we ordered fish, swordfish for me and mackerel for Patti. For dessert we had lemon pie and a cannolo, along with an coffee and an aperitif, the a Sicilian Amaro, for 77€ for two people.
Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Grilled Swordfish and Componata with roasted potatoes – Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Mackerel with potatoes and tomatoes – Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Cannolo with pistachio – Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Lemon Pie – Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Ristorante Cine
Having been eating Italian and SIcilian food for too long, we tried RIstorante Cine and really like it. Though the ingredients are different from what we are used to in Turin and the States (though not unusual), the owner was more than happy to alter any dishes to our tastes. We only ate lunch here and for two, we were able to order an appetizer, primi (vegetable rice) and secondi (chicken or pork or vegetables in white sauce), along with a half carafe of red wine, water, coffee and sambuca for under 30€! It is hard to beat that in a tourist area.
Ristorante Cine – Chinese restaurant – Siracusa, Sicily
Ristorante Cine – Chinese restaurant – Siracusa, Sicily
Involtino and Rice Cantonese – Ristorante Cine – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Pork and onions in brown sauce, Shrimp and onion in white sauce – Ristorante Cine – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
La Tavernetta Da Piero Fuori Ortigia
We ate lunch here on Sunday, the 21st of May, 2023, after visiting the Archaeological Park and when unbeknownst to us Mount Etna was erupting.
La Tavernetta Da Piero Fuori Ortigia Ristoranta – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Tagliatella alla pomodoro, bruschetta – La Tavernetta Da Piero Fuori Ortigia Ristoranta – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
After we finished and began walking back to the hotel, we noticed dust getting in our eyes. At the time we had no idea why and surmised that the recent bad storm had brought in dust from Africa, which can occasionally happen. When we read the next day that the Catania Airport had closed due to ash if finally dawned on us that it had been the ash from the volcano all those miles away that was the cause.
Gelateria
If you are looking for gelati in Sicily, do not buy the brightly colored ones, usually they are made of inferior ingredients. Instead, look for the Artiginale label. Though you will pay more for a cone of cup of this, it will be far more worth your while in taste later.
Levante Gelateria
Another good Gelateria, providing excellent artisanal gelati. I was particularly fond of their Amerano and Pistachio flavors.
Levante Gelateria – Siracusa, Sicily
Levante Gelati Artiginale – Pistachio and Amorano – Siracusa, Sicily
Fior Di Latte Gelati
Finding very good gelati anywhere in Italy is not a difficult task, here is no exception. It has great artiginale (artisanal) flavors, I ordered the Ortigia and Note Di Sicilia, and Patti ordered the Note Di Sicilia, Mandarin Orange and Dark Chocolate with a hint of orange.
We have traveled a lot throughout Europe and especially Italy and occasionally you will get a rainy or snowy day. But nothing prepared us for our arrival in Cefalù, or as we write it in english, Cefalu; a small touristy town situated on the north side of the island of Sicily.
Train Station – Cefalu, Sicily
Cefalù
We arrived by Trenitalia’s Pop train from Palermo, which runs approximately every hour and costs around 6.50€/person. These are normally local tourism trains in the major areas and can be called Pop, Jazz, or almost anything. They provide reasonably priced and fast transportation to the coastal tourism spots. If you need to travel a longer distance, you will most likely have to use the normal Trenitalia or Intercity service.
The City Map – Cefalu, Sicily
Similar to other touristy spots in the US and other parts of the world, Cefalu is definitely administered and managed for the traveler. Though quiet during these months, I can imagine it can get a bit noisy during the summer months with its extensive beach and boardwalk beckoning travelers on. With the addition of all the shops and artisans in town, you have the perfect recipe for the tourist trap. So, if you are only interested in the historic aspects of the town and area, it probably behooves you to travel earlier or later in the year, in order to avoid its busy potential. Otherwise, if you are a sun lover, this could be a very good destination for you.
The Town – Cefalu, Sicily
Patti walking the town – Cefalu, Sicily
Cefalu, Sicily
A Narrow Street – Cefalu, Sicily
Another quiet street – Cefalu, Sicily
Quaint side street – Cefalu, Sicily
Cefalu, Sicily
Typical Italian Back Street – Cefalu, Sicily
Stairs To Upper Part Of Town – Cefalu, Sicily
Towards The Grotta – Cefalu, Sicily
The Beach – Cefalu, Sicily
The Wet City Streets – Cefalu, Sicily
Another Side Street – Cefalu, Sicily
The Molo – Cefalu, Sicily
The Steps Up To Piazza Garibaldi – Cefalu, Sicily
Piazza Garibaldi – Cefalu, Sicily
Piazza Garibaldi – Another View – Cefalu, Sicily
The beautiful paved streets – Cefalu, Sicily
Sunset – Cefalu, Sicily
The begging of our climb – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Other than that, we happened to arrive when Sicily was getting one of its worst storm system in twenty years. Not only did it rain incessantly, the wind and the temperatures made for a quite challenging time. If there wasn’t water, water, everywhere, there was always the threat of rain, so you always had to pack an umbrella. We got wet so often, we started debating whether we should go out at all. We were glad we did, otherwise there would have been no way to see everything that we did in such a compressed time.
Monte de Pieta
The Mount of Pity was first funded in the early 1700s by Don Vincenzo Costa. The institution became very important to the economy of the city, but after World War II fell into decline. It has elegantly framed windows and a molded lintel and is an example of the advanced baroque architecture in Cefalu.
Monte di Pieta – Cefalu, Sicily
Torre Orologio
Not far from Il Duomo and in Piazza Garibaldi, almost next to Ristorante Porta Terra is the Torre Orologio, or the clock tower. Like most other cities, probably the go to place at one time to set your own timepiece to, but now, though it still functions, appears to be in dire need of some repairs. While we were eating at Porta Terra, we noticed the bells do not function perfectly, even though if you paid attention, it appeared to tell the correct time within a few minutes of the actual, even though the ringing was quite muted.
Torre Orologie – Cefalu, Sicily
Lavatoio Medievale Fiume Cefalin
This little historic bit, easily missed by the unaware tourist ambling along the via Vittorio Emanuele, is an old laundry.
The Medieval Laundry – Lavatoio Medievale Fiume Cefalino – Cefalu, Sicily
The Medieval Laundry – Lavatoio Medievale Fiume Cefalino – Cefalu, Sicily
The Medieval Laundry – Lavatoio Medievale Fiume Cefalino – Cefalu, Sicily
The Medieval Laundry – Lavatoio Medievale Fiume Cefalino – Cefalu, Sicily
The Medieval Laundry – Lavatoio Medievale Fiume Cefalino – Cefalu, Sicily
Made out of stone and fountains, the town’s people in the old days used to come here to do their laundry. It is still in working order, though modern day appliances make its use today superfluous.
Il Duomo
The Cathedral of Syracuse sits on high ground directly under the La Rocca, or The Rock. It has a large piazza and spacious interior and can be seen from some distance. While we were here, it was under renovation inside, so we were unable to see it in all its glory.
The Towers and Facade from a distance – Il Duomo – Cefalu, Sicily
The Courtyard – Il Duomo – Cefalu, Sicily
The Piazza Il Duomo – Il Duomo – Cefalu, Sicily
Main Entrance – Il Duomo – Cefalu, Sicily
Main Entrance Stained Glass – Il Duomo – Cefalu, Sicily
Main Entrance Stained Glass – Il Duomo – Cefalu, Sicily
A Chapel – Il Duomo – Cefalu, Sicily
The Cathedral Inside – Il Duomo – Cefalu, Sicily
The Old Wooden Roof – Il Duomo – Cefalu, Sicily
The Crypt Entrance – Il Duomo – Cefalu, Sicily
Castello di Cefalu
You enter the hike to the caste via the Rocca di Cefalu. It starts out with finely paved stairs and steps, that one would typically find in any Italian town with hills in it.
The Ticket booth and entrance – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Ascending – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
The initial path – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
The first cliff ledge – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
More cliffs – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
The steep cliff and cacti – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
The entrance fee is 5€/person and the experience will definitely introduce one to the true meaning of Italian bureaucracy. Not only is there a self-service machine, but someone there that actually asks you what you want, takes your money, purchases the ticket for you, then hands it to someone else in the kiosk who is there to tabulate the number in a book. This number is again used when you leave, so do not throw your ticket out. Once your ticket is returned, another person is waiting to take it from you and helps you scan it in the automated turnstile. All in today’s times totally unnecessary. There is obviously either some abstruse Italian or municipal law that probably requires them to do so.
The steps through the second entrance – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Over the main cliff face – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
The town below – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Storm damage and mud mixed up by the waves – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
After the turnstile, the hike starts immediately to climb. There are hairpins all along the way up until you enter the first set of walls and gates, which were the first line of defense. This was a perfect point in which to take a few photographs and enjoy the view of Cefalu from above.
Tickets For Two – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
The trail signs – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
The hike then brings you to a fork in the road with a sign, archeological ruins left, castle right, we chose the right route, figuring we wanted to see it first. It then continues and enters a steep area of tree and grass along sheer walls of stone, home to a large number of goats. If you pay attention, you can hear their calls and see them climbing the stone walls as if to mock you.
A panorama of the town and trail – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
After what seems like another half an hour of switching back and forth along the trail you enter the area of the castle. Here are the remnants of the once grand Cefalu Castle, Perched high above the town, it had a commanding view of the countryside and in its time, must have been unassailable. From here one can take amazing photographs of the town below, the sea and the beautiful countryside below.
An old cistern – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Old guard post buildings – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
The fortress walls – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
A view of La Kalura – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
A view of La Kalura – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Torre Caldura – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Torre Caldura – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Another jetty – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Torre Caldura – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Patti – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Guard outpost – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Temple of Apollo – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Archeological ruins – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
More ruins – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Guard outpost – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
The sheer cliff face – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Il Duomo and Cefalu below – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Patti in the ruins – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
On the way down we bore right in the direction of the archeological site. The path was somewhat muddier and steeper then the other path we ascended upon. However, we descended quickly and enjoyed visiting the Temple of Demeter and an old cistern that is onsite. There is also a cafe here, were you can purchase something small to eat or drink. From here the descent is rapid and soon enough you will be handing the ticket back to the office so they can record your departure, or whatever useful information they derive from it.
Patti in the ruins – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
The last ruins – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
The giant cistern, 50 meters deep – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
More ruins – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
One of the many pleasures of the Italian countryside and its parks, are the flowers. Italy goes out of its way not to poison things, so there are numerous flowers and other blossoming things around, where bees and other pollinators can feed. Here is a short slideshow with some examples on this hike.
Wild flowers – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Wild flowers – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Wild flowers – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
More wild flowers – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
WIld flowers – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Wild flowers – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
More flowers growing from the ruins – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
More flowers – Hiking la Rocca – Cefalu, Sicily
Hotel Victoria Palace
Our hotel was situated right across the street from the boardwalk and the sea. The views were very nice and we found it especially convenient, instead of being directly in town, where the streets are more confining and more difficult to move around in. The rooms here are fairly spacious and have most of the amenities that Americans are used, with the exception of an ironing board and a few other things. All and all, the staff is very friendly and welcoming and the downstairs cafe has excellent coffee and also a gelato bar, which we frequented more than once.
Hotel Victoria Palace – Cefalu, Sicily
Restaurants
The White Horse
We ate dinner here the first night in Cefalu. We chose this restaurant due to the threat of rain and because it was right up the street and very close. Unfortunately at the time, we didn’t realize that being in the vicinity would help much staying dry.
The White Horse Restaurant – Cefalu, Sicily
Nero D’Avola – A nice Sicilian wine – White Horse Restaurant – Cefalu, Sicily
Sicilian Calzone with onion – White Horse Restaurant – Cefalu, Sicily
The food here is typical Italian pizzeria, very good and very reasonable prices. They have pizza, calzone, spaghetti and pasta dishes, and a wood fired brick oven to cook it all in.
Il Gabbiano
We actually ate here twice, once for lunch and once for dinner.
Ristorante – Al Gabbiano – Cefalu, Sicily
For lunch we ate outside, since the weather was trying to improve and it was rather nice out. I ordered the Zuppa di Verdure and the Spaghetti al Pomodoro and Patti had a mixed salad.
Patti Ready For Lunch – Ristorante – Al Gabbiano – Cefalu, Sicily
Erick Ready For Lunch – Ristorante – Al Gabbiano – Cefalu, Sicily
For dinner we ate inside, since the evenings in May can be rather cool, especially with the breeze from the sea blowing inland. I ordered the the mixed salad and the Spaghetti Bolognese, Patti order the Spaghetti al Pomodoro I had the day before. Both were delicious and with wine and water came to a reasonable 35€.
Zuppa di Verdura – Ristorante – Al Gabbiano – Cefalu, Sicily
Spaghetti al Pomodoro – Ristorante – Al Gabbiano – Cefalu, Sicily
Insalata Mista – Ristorante – Al Gabbiano – Cefalu, Sicily
A View Before The Rain – Ristorante – Al Gabbiano – Cefalu, Sicily
La Siciliana
This is a delightful restaurant for lunch and is located within the town on via Gioeni. It has a full manu and will please seafood and land lovers alike.
The entrance – Ristorante La Siciliana – Cefalu, Sicily
A Sicilian Medusan Symbol – Ristorante La Siciliana – Cefalu, Sicily
The restaurant’s courtyard – Ristorante La Siciliana – Cefalu, Sicily
Patti waiting for her food – Ristorante La Siciliana – Cefalu, Sicily
I had the Zuppa di Verdura con Legumi and the Lasagna, while Patti finally found here Aranchini on the menu and ordered a sampler plate of that. Both were delicious. With food, a hald liter of wine, water and coffee, it came to a reasonable 37€ for two.
Vino rosso della casa and aranchini – Ristorante La Siciliana – Cefalu, Sicily
Aranchini – Deep fried cheese and rice, ham and rice, cuttlefish ink and rice – Ristorante La Siciliana – Cefalu, Sicily
Zuppa di Verdura – Ristorante La Siciliana – Cefalu, Sicily
Lasagna – Ristorante La Siciliana – Cefalu, Sicily
Patti – Ristorante La Siciliana – Cefalu, Sicily
Porta Terra
A fine restaurant located in the Piazza Garibaldi in the upper part of town. We booked our reservations using The Fork and got a free hors d’oeuvres of Cherry Tomato, Mozzarella and Pistachio Cream in a small baked bread cup.
Ristorante Porta Terra – Cefalu, Sicily
The Fountain – Ristorante Porta Terra – Cefalu, Sicily
Ristorante Porta Terra – Cefalu, Sicily
Our Special hors d’oeuvres from The Fork – Cherry Tomato, Mozzarella and Pistachio Cream – Ristorante Porta Terra – Cefalu, Sicily
I ordered a glass of a fine red Sicilian wine called Nero d’Altura. Patti had the breaded tuna with Mango and avocado sauce, and I had the baked cod with a reduction of pinoli nuts, raisins and kalamata olives over mashed potatoes, both of which were delicious. The dinner was a bit on the high side at 71€ for both of us, but the food was worth every cent.
Breaded Tuna with Mango and Avocado sauce – Ristorante Porta Terra – Cefalu, Sicily
Baked cod with a reduction of pinoli nuts, raisins and kalamata olives over mashed potatoes – Ristorante Porta Terra – Cefalu, Sicily
Chocolate cream with red berries and crunchies on top – Ristorante Porta Terra – Cefalu, Sicily
Tiramisu with chocolate crunchies and Marsala wine – Ristorante Porta Terra – Cefalu, Sicily
A Fine Red Sicilian Wine – Nero d’Altura – Ristorante Porta Terra – Cefalu, Sicily
A fine sweet Marsala wine – Ben Rye – Ristorante Porta Terra – Cefalu, Sicily
Situated on the north coast of the autonomous region of Sicily is Palermo, both the capital of the province and of the region itself. It is an ancient city which has been ruled over its long history by many different powers. It was once a nexus for essential trade routes in the Mediterranean Sea.
Via Bara All’Olivella – Palermo, Sicily
We arrived at the Palermo Airport, which is actually not in Palermo, but in Punta Raisi. There are many options one can take in order to get to Palermo, ranging from the train at 6.50€/person, all the way up to private shuttle service starting at 50€/person. Being from a family of railroad workers, I prefer to take a train when possible. Not only is a far cheaper, but in Italy they almost always run on time.
Patti – Punta Raisi Station – Palermo Airport – Sicily, Italy
One last thing, unfortunately our Tickets For Two were electronic, so it does not make sense to show, nor take a photograph of them. Let us just say, we had two tickets on a Ryanair flight from Turin to Palermo at a very reasonable rate.
A Working City
In our contemporary time, I would say the city of Palermo is struggling between its ancient roots, as with many other parts of Italy, and its desire to be modern. This is reflected in many ways as you walk through its narrow alleyways and marbled streets. Some of which are well worn with centuries of wear.
The Streets of Palermo – Sicily, Italy
Via Maqueda outside our hotel – Piazza Massimo – Palermo, Sicily
Via Maqueda – Piazza Massimo – Palermo, Sicily
The Streets of Palermo – Palermo, Sicily
Quattro Canti via Marqueda – Palermo, Sicily
Via Vittorio Emanuelle – Palermo, Sicily
Porta Felice – Palermo, Sicily
Colonna dell’Immacolata – Church of Saint Domenico – Palermo, Sicily
Churches of Palermo
Palermo sports amazing architecture and a church around almost every corner. The Gesu Church and the Palermo Cathedral, may be of particular interest.
Gesu Church – Palermo, Sicily
Palermo Cathedral – Palermo, Sicily
Palermo Cathedral – Palermo, Sicily
Palermo Cathedral – Palermo, Sicily
Baptism Font – Palermo Cathedral – Palermo, Sicily
VIa Matteo Bonello – Palermo Cathedral – Palermo, Sicily
The Massimo Theater
On the other cultural side of things, there is the Massimo Theater. An impressive building that is named after the piazza in which it resides.
Another view of Massimo Theater – Piazza Massimo – Palermo, Sicily
Other Parts of the City
A few other interesting sites include the Porta Nuovo and several parks, one of which has a magnificent example of an Australian Banyan tree. However, there are many site to enjoy while strolling the city streets, sometimes it pays just to get lost, even if your favorite map is uncooperative.
Via Bara All’Olivella – Palermo, Sicily
Side Street – Palermo, Sicily
Piazza – Palermo, Sicily
How To Get Around – The Appi Taxi – Palermo, Sicily
Horses – Via Bonnano – Palermo, Sicily
Porta Nuovo – Palermo, Sicily
Marmoreo Theater – Palermo, Sicily
Side Street – Palermo, Sicily
Side Street – Palermo, Sicily
Market on via Ballero – Palermo, Sicily
Piazza Pretoria and Fountain – Palermo, Sicily
San Caltaldo Church – Palermo, Sicily
Street with Crazy Signs – Palermo, Sicily
Garibaldi Park – Palermo, Sicily
Old Australian Banyan Tree – Ficus Macrophylla – Garibaldi Park – Palermo, Sicily
Odd Structure – Nauto – Palermo, Sicily
Hotel Massimo Plaza
Situated in the Piazza Massimo, almost at the start of the pedestrian zone on via Maqueda, was our unassuming hotel, Hotel Massimo Plaza. The staff was very helpful and our breakfast was served in our room, which we often find very helpful, especially when the weather is not cooperating, like it wasn’t on this trip.
Our Hotel – Massimo Plaza Hotel – Piazza Massimo – Palermo, Sicily
Restaurants
In our short stay in Palermo, we found the following restaurants noteworthy. The cuisine of Palermo is typical for a southern Italian port city, most restaurants having plenty of fish and seafood on the menu. However, there are plenty of pizza places and small cafes as well, where one can purchase smaller items for takeout or to eat as they walk.
Ristorante Pizzeria Italia
This restaurant was just around the corner of our hotel and offers authentic and excellent southern Italian pizza. You may see the term pizze in your travels, but do not be deterred, that is just the plural form in Italian for more than one pizza, it’s the same thing.
Ristorante Pizzeria Italia – via Orologio – Palermo, Sicily
We ordered a caprese and a pizza each, I had a glass of wine and we ordered a bottle of water and the bill came to 25€ with 4€ coperto.
Margherita Pizza – Ristorante Pizzeria Italia – via Orologio – Palermo, Sicily
On To Cefalu
After our short stay here, it was on to the real start of our trip, Cefalu. Although there is plenty more to see and do in Palermo, our trip itinerary did not allow us any more time here. So using our senior discount cards, we purchased two more Trenitalia tickets and we were on our way.
Palermo Central Station – Palermo, Sicily
In the event we do return, we plan to stay here longer and perhaps see more of the western portion of the island as well. Aside from the rain, we still had a pretty good time here and enjoyed the city of Palermo for its sites, cuisine and true grit.
Below the cacophony of Vienna’s innere Stadt, the Resselpark, Karlskirche and the Kärtner Ring is a rather large conglomeration of museums, gardens and fountains is the Belvedere Palace.
Belvedere Palace and Gardens
Belvedere
The palace and its gardens are divided in two, known as the Oberen (Upper) and Unteren (Lower) Belvedere. Between them one can find the exceptional gardens of the palace called the Belvedere Gardens. To the right of this are also the Botanical Gardens, which we did not have time to visit.
Belvedere Gate Entrance
Belvedere Gardens – Upper and Lower Belvedere Museums – Tickets For Two
Upper Belvedere
This museum holds the primary collection of the Belvedere, including many famous artists, Austria’s own Klimt and others like Monet, Rodin and Schiele. Words cannot describe what a slow walk and intense focus on these works feels like unless you visit these works in person. Second best is a slide show on those pieces that I found the most moving and interesting of the collection, enjoy.
Upper Belvedere Museum – Stairway
Upper Belvedere Museum – Grand Stairway
Upper Belvedere Museum – Stairway – Medusa Gorgon
Upper Belvedere Museum – Stairway – Stheno and Euryale Gorgons
Upper Belvedere Museum – Grand Hall
Upper Belvedere Museum – Grand Hall – Panorama (distorted)
Upper Belvedere Museum – Grand Hall
Upper Belvedere Museum – Donner – Venus in the Forge of Vulcan
Upper Belvedere Museum – Platzer – Rebecca at the Well
Upper Belvedere Museum – Brandt – Castle Ruin and Horse Cart
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schinnagl – Morgen
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schinnagl – Abend
Upper Belvedere Museum – Portrait Hall
Upper Belvedere Museum – Other works
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schaller – Adolescent Cupid
Upper Belvedere Museum – Other Marble Works
Upper Belvedere Museum – Rodin – Bust of Gustav Mahler
Upper Belvedere Museum – Monet – Path in Garden of Giverny
Upper Belvedere Museum – Klimt – Flowering Poppies
Upper Belvedere Museum – Klimt
Upper Belvedere Museum – Klimt – Schloßkammer in der Attersee
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schloßkapelle – Castle Chapel
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schiele – Die Umarmung – The Embrace
Upper Belvedere Museum – Kolig
Upper Belvedere Museum – Ethofer – Café Tomaselli in Salzburg
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schindler – Saw Mill in Morning Mist
Upper Belvedere Museum – Charlemont – Inside a Hammer Mill
Upper Belvedere Museum – Thoren – Cow attacked by Wolves
Belvedere Gardens
A marvelous September day, a breeze with some chill and a beautiful garden go hand in hand, especially when you can share it with someone; in this case, my wife.
Belvedere Gardens
Belvedere Gardens – View of Lower Belvedere
Belvedere Gardens – Upper Belvedere
Belvedere Gardens and Reflecting Pond
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens and Step Fountain
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens and Muscle Fountain
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens and Muscle Fountain
Belvedere Gardens – View of Vienna
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Patti in the Gardens
We had a great time just slowly walking through the gardens and listening to the fountains, enjoying the landscape[1]Which is being prepared for the Belvedere’s up and coming Jubilee next year in 2023. and the stillness that you do not get in other parts of this very busy city.
Lower Belvedere
This part of the museum contains more off-beat art works. Mostly contemporary artists and works, the Joseph Rebell collection, which goes back to the early 1800s, is extremely good and important. His landscapes of Naples, Vesuvius and other parts of the Mediterranean. Again, it is best to view these works in the context of a slide show.
Lower Belvedere Museum
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Bielik – Tree with Lights
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Wisinger-Florian – Prater Alle im Herbst
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Bielik – Burning Tree
Lower Belvedere Museum – Fischer – Heart of Reality
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits of Joseph Rebel
Lower Belvedere Museum – Old Horse Stables
Lower Belvedere Museum – Church Related Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Church Related Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Church Related Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Church Related Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell – Mediterranean Works
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell – Mediterranean Works
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell – Mediterranean Works
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell – Mediterranean Works
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell – Mediterranean Works
That concludes our visit to Vienna. We found it a fast paced interesting place to visit that eagerly welcomes tourists. Extremely cosmopolitan where it is easier to find an Italian restaurant than a traditional Viennese one, but such is the price of progress and tourism. For that, one might have to venture further, perhaps to Graz, or even Güssing in Burgenland.
In Vienna, as with many older cities in Europe, there are interesting things to see not only above ground, but below as well. Today was a rainy day and we had to deal with as best we could, that could have meant museums, but everyone else had that idea. In attempt to continue to avoid crowded place, whenever possible, we decided on the offbeat.
Vienna – Vermählungsbrunnen
Schweizertor – The Swiss Gate
The swiss gate is the oldest gate or door and part of the Hofburg, dating back to the 1300s. It is part of the original square castle that included four turrets on each corner. It’s not much to see, but is a remarkable color red.
Vienna – Schweizertur – Swiss Gate
Die Ankeruhr
The Anker Clock is located on Hoher Markt, next to the Judengasse.
Vienna – Die Ankeruhr
Vienna – Die Ankeruhr – Legend
It chimes and performs a small show every noon time, otherwise all you will witness is an hourly chime, as follows.
Kapuzinergruft – Kaisergruft – Habsburg Tomb
If you are at all interested in the Habsburgs, and perhaps where they might be buried, look no further than the Kapuzinergruft. Also called the Kaisergruft or Habsburg Tomb, it is located on Neuer Markt and next to the Kapuziner Kloster.
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft – Kaiser Gruft or Crypt – Tickets For Two
The gruft contains many of the families of the Habsburgs and Habsburg-Lothringen and includes a genealogy of the members who rest in this place. Some of the coffins also have amazing details, most of which have to do with wars[1]I sometime wonder when we are going to get over or need for that exercise in futility.
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft – Habsburg Genealogy
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Restaurants
Grand Hotel Wien – Breakfast Lounge
If you stay at the Grand Hotel Wien, you should look into any combination package that offers breakfast. Unless you are an extremely light eater in the morning, you will not do much better outside. They have a hot and cold menu (buffet), and the portion size is well managed, so you won’t have to worry about walking around with a lot of extra weight.
Vienna – Grand Hotel Wien – Breakfast
Café Central
One of the oldest cafes in Vienna, the Café Central is located in the old Palais Ferstel building on the corner of Herren- and Strauchgasse. Famous personages like Freud and Trotsky have visited this establishment, though today the conversations today, one could say, are less political or analytical.
Vienna – Cafe Central – Building and entrance
We made reservations for lunch and commend anyone do that same. The line waiting to get in can be long and when it rains out, as it did today, you do not want to find yourself getting wet before sitting down after a twenty or so minute wait.
Vienna – Cafe Central – Show case at entrance
Vienna – Cafe Central – Looking toward entrance
Vienna – Cafe Central – Patti enjoying lunch
Vienna – Cafe Central – Main Room
The food is good and traditional. I can commend a good red wine from Burgenland called Blaufränkish, which is served by the glass for around 5.50€. It is an excellent accompaniment for Wüstchens and Gulash soup. It is very busy, so service can be intermittent at times, so be patient.
Vienna – Cafe Central – Würstchen platter and Maygar Gulash
Vienna – Cafe Central – Apfelstrüdel – a local and personal favorite
For those wanting and willing to see the Sacra di San Michele and experience this great church and its views, one must hike the three or so kilometers and one kilometer ascent in order to really enjoy what the builders had accomplished here. Not only is it a feat of Middle-Ages engineering and stubbornness, its shear existence defies rationality, and so may I add hiking up to it. Well maybe not exactly, but you should be prepared. We saw many individuals when we were descending wearing the wrong type of shoes, etc. More on that later.
Sant’ Ambrogio – Getting There
A thirty three minute train ride from Turin’s train station Porta Nuova will get you to Sant’ Ambrogio and the beginning of your climb. Let me add, before we begin, that you may drive up to the church; but then you would be among the majority of people there and just mere tourists.
The train station – San Ambrogio
The train station is spartan and leaves you off on track one to enter this small town or hamlet directly. Returning you will have to find the stairwell to the right of the train station and walk under the tracks.
First sight of Sacra di San Michele from train station – Sant Ambrogio
Welcome Sign – Sant Ambrogio
Hiking Trail Signs – Sant Ambrogio
Sacra di San Michele from inside the town – Sant Ambrogio
A sleepy town on Pasquetta (day after Easter) – Sant Ambrogio
A view from the Church of Saint Giovanni Vincenzo – Sant Ambrogio
The trail starts and the Church of Saint Roch – Sant Ambrogio
Follow the signs for two hours – Sant Ambrogio
We arrived the day after Easter Sunday, or as the remembrance in Italy has it for Roman Catholics, Pasquetta [1]Also called, Lunedì dell’ Angelo, which is meant to remember the women of the sepulcher, including Mary Magdalene, who were comforted by an angel when they returned to Jesus’ tomb and found it … Continue reading The town was more or less empty, so our ideas about a quick climb up and back and an early lunch soon vanished.
On the way up, the rooftops of the town – Sant Ambrogio
The walk through the town was short and without incident, in fact, we were mostly accompanied by the individuals who left the train with us, residents of the town having already left for the long weekend or enjoying amenities inside and their extra day off.
Parco Naturale Orsiera – Sentiero Trail 502
Using the Sentiero Trail 502, or TOS 502, we quickly left the town and started our ascent up the most north-eastern mountain or hill of the Parco Naturale Orsiera. An almost one kilometer ascent for three kilometers with slopes ranging in steepness of three to twenty percent, and I would conjecture most were in the double digits.
This 3 km rises 1000 meters and takes about 1 and a half to 2 hours to hike – Trail Map
The trail was for the most part cobbled with round and larger stones, some which have a remarkable green color, are shiny and very slippery. Proper shoes are important, though it is possible to navigate the trail with tennis shoes or sneakers.
A welcoming sign, this is the right trail – Sentiero Trail 502
The Trail has Cobble and other Stones all the way up – Sentiero Trail 502
Patti navigating the trail – Sentiero Trail 502
Patti on another turn – Sentiero Trail 502
Sant Ambrogio Panorama – Sentiero Trail 502
At a higher elevation, overview of Sant Ambrogio – Sentiero Trail 502
Sant Ambrogio from Sentiero Trail 502
Patti still climbing – Sentiero Trail 502
The flowers on the trail – Sentiero Trail 502
The flowers on the trail – Sentiero Trail 502
The flowers on the trail – Sentiero Trail 502
Coming to first ending of trail – Sentiero Trail 502
Upon exiting the trail at a collection of houses, and an interim point in the hike, you will find a large commemorative stone.
Commemoration Wheel 2000 – Sentiero Trail 502
Then you will make a hairpin turn and look up, only to see that your hike up is STILL NOT OVER!
Still a long way up to go – Sentiero Trail 502
Checking the signs indicate approximately another kilometer to hike, which took us about twenty minutes.
Trail Sign, another .8 km to go – Sentiero Trail 502
After the last more modest climb you will walk onto a road, where all the other tourists are walking into from the parking lot. The attraction has a large sign explaining the layout of the church and its grounds.
Sign at entry to Sacra di San Michele
Sacra di San Michele
Once near the church of Sacra di San Michele, the magnificent views are apparent. With its perch high on a rocky crag, the church has a commanding view of the valley below.
Panorama before church at end of trail
Walking up to the church you will find a small building to the right that sells postcards, other tourist paraphernalia and entrance tickets. Once purchased, a turnstile to the left has a QR code reader that will let you enter, then you must start climbing stairs, an unwelcome sign after our long journey.
Tickets for Two – Sacra di San Michele – Sant Ambrogio
Stairs inside – Sacra di San Michele
More stairs – Sacra di San Michele
Erick with Covid mask on ascending more stairs – Sacra di San Michele
Again more stairs – Sacra di San Michele
The remainder of our visit consisted of just enjoying the church and the beautiful views. My wife chose this day because the weather promised to be wonderful, we were not disappointed, it was sunny and in the low 60°s Fahrenheit, perfect for hiking.
Finally, the entry – Sacra di San Michele
Mosaics on walls – Sacra di San Michele
The main altar – Sacra di San Michele
Commemoration of the Crucifixion – Sacra di San Michele
Inside the church – Sacra di San Michele
Portraits – Sacra di San Michele
Large Fresco – Sacra di San Michele
Altar – Sacra di San Michele
Spectacular views, by the entrance of the church doors – Sacra di San Michele
Erick and a view of the Cottian Alps by the church entrance – Sacra di San Michele
The end of the valley and a view toward Turin
The Cottian Alps and the valley floor looking towards Susa, taken by the church entrance – Sacra di San Michele
Patti and a view of the Cottian Alps by the church entrance – Sacra di San Michele
The Susa Valley and Cottian Alps from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele
Looking across the valley from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele
The ruins and Cottian Alps from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele
More ruins and alpine foothills from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele
Leaving we took our last look up at the great church and descended along the more difficult trail, due to its increase in steepness, it promised to cut some time off our descent, which it did.
Going down is a bit more treacherous and only 2.5 km, but still takes about 1 and a half hours to hike – Trail Map
However, the first part of this trail is VERY steep and not for anyone ill-prepared or wearing the wrong hiking apparel, so caution! We were actually having second thoughts until we realized it was more difficult to go back up, then to press on and continue downward.
A view of the church descending – Sacra di San Michele
We arrived back in Sant’ Ambrogio almost five hours later, hungry and fairly tired from our experience. Once on the train, we relaxed and started to compare which part of our legs hurt more. However, we were both happy we were able to meet our sacred vertical pilgrimage with a great sense of accomplishment. It was our first big hike of the season, hopefully not our last and if anyone is thinking of doing this or a similar hike, keep the following in mind, we will next time.
Prepare for your hike, research the route and understand how technical it is
Bring a water bottle, the trail has two or three places to refill, this is especially important
Bring lunch or something to eat, there is nothing above except some vending by the ticket counter, but do not count on that
Wear the correct clothing (light and layered) and shoes, hiking shoes would be preferred but thick soled tennis shoes or sneakers will do
Pace yourself, unless you are young be mindful of your body and do not over-exert, you do not want to get into medical trouble on that trail, it will take some time for them to get to you
Go in good weather, unless it’s your intent as an experienced hikers not to
And last but not least.., enjoy yourself, there are amazing things to see and hear on the trail, the flowers and birds are in abundance.
Also called, Lunedì dell’ Angelo, which is meant to remember the women of the sepulcher, including Mary Magdalene, who were comforted by an angel when they returned to Jesus’ tomb and found it empty.
Tucked along the eastern bank of the River Po and within the confines of the Metropolitan City of Turin sits Moncalieri. No more than a fifteen minute bike ride for me down the Corso Moncalieri from our apartment in Turin, it took us a twenty minute walk to the train station, followed by a twenty-five minute train ride, with a change in Lingotto. Of course, there are other options, but none that we could take conveniently from where we live in Turin.
Tickets for Two – Moncalieri – Turin
Moncalieri – The Town
A quick hop off the train and you may bump into the weekly market, if you travel there on the weekend. This is the traditional market that most places in Italy entertain at least once a week, so that locals can buy everything from household goods, cheap everyday things like sponges, to more exotica like gold coins and older things, some would like to call antiques.
Train station – Moncalieri, Turin
Once you have left the train station and navigated the small Borgo Navile, where the market is held, you will find the center of town by walking the via San Martino.
Municipal Building – Moncalieri, Turin
Via S. Martino – Moncalieri – Turin
Church overpass of street – Moncalieri, Turin
Piazza VIttorio Emanuele II – Moncalieri Center – Turin
At the end of this short journey you will find the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II[1]Named after the King of the same name, the castle of Moncalieri was his favorite summer retreat, the town’s main fountain and the Comune Building for Moncalieri. The significance of the Roman God Neptune is unclear, other than he was the Roman God of Fresh Water and the Sea, and that the fountain was most likely the main source of water before indoor plumbing for the town’s people.
Neptune Statue – Comune Building in Moncalieri Center – Turin
Castello Reale di Moncalieri
A must see when visiting here is the large and private Castle Real of Moncalieri. For a modest fee you can enter the castle, which experienced a fire in 2008[2]The fire destroyed several rooms on the upper floor and was contained, but most of the damaged was just contained and never renovated., and take the guided tour, which is only in Italian. Fear not, there are enough references in the story for most people to follow and our tour guide did speak english and filled us in while walking on the more important points.
Garden and View – Castle of Moncalieri – Moncalieri, Turin
Garden – Castle of Moncaliere – Moncalieri, Turin
Castello Reale – Moncalieri, Turin
Restaurants
Osteria e Gastronomia
Tucked between the UniCredit Bank and an apartment building off the beginning of Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II is a very good restaurant, the Osteria e Gastronomia. It was already lunch time, so we grabbed a small two person table right in the alleyway and were immediately greated by our hosts. A quick view of the menu and we were ready for some delicious Piemontese food.
Osteria e Gastronomia – Moncalieri,Turin
I ordered the Agnolotti del plin tradizionali con sugo d’arrosto, a typical Piedmont dish of very tiny ravioli stuffed with meat in a meat sauce, very tasty! It doesn’t look like much, but is actually very filling. Along with some bread, a glass of Nebbiollo alla spina, and water, how can you go wrong for lunch?
Agnolotti del plin tradizionali con sugo d’arrosto
Patti ordered the Agnolotti con salsiccia di Bra e porri con crema di parmigiano e guanciale croccante, which are larger ravioli made with sausage from Bra and leeks, topped with Bacon. A little Parmesan and you have a great lunch.
Agnolotti con salsiccia di Bra e porri con crema di parmigiano e guanciale croccante
Well, we hope you enjoyed our adventure to Moncalieri, because we did and were actually surprised. Though it took longer to get there than we had originally hoped, it wasn’t all that bad and definitely worth the trip, if only for the food!
In October 2021, during our travels in and around Naples, we quickly planned and later took a day trip to the small town of Pratola Serra[1]The town’s name is actually one of great confusion, most likely because of all of the municipal and governmental changes through the years. Its actual name, at least when one looks back into the … Continue reading in the province of Avellino, region of Campania, Italy, the ancestral home of my wife’s paternal family. While there, we had a delightful discussion, through our guide and interpreter, with perhaps a very distant family member of this family, though it is impossible to know for sure. She was cafe and store owner with the same surname of De Cicco.
Bar Centrale – Antonia De Cicco’s Cafe – Pratola Serra – Oct 2021
Patti And Federica Talking – Pratola Serra, Corso Giuseppe Garabaldi, DeCicco’s Bar Centrale – Oct 2021
Pratola Serra – Avellino, Italy – via Nazionale (SS 371) – Oct 2021
Before she returned, we had a midday coffee at her cafe and discussed what we wanted to actually ask her, when and if she returned. We thought most of the questions should center around the small family tree we had brought with us and where we might be able to find lost family members, including where any might be in local cemeteries. In the meantime, we left the cafe temporarily to walk the streets of this small town and locate what we thought might be the old address of my wife’s paternal grandfather. After taking numerous photographs of the town’s main street and some of its more interesting buildings.
House Number 63 – SS 371, Pratola Serra – Oct 2021
The most pressing problem was the street, now called Strada Statale 371 (S.S. 371), and is no longer named via Nazionale(or for that matter never was called via Nazionale, it could be the wrong street) as it was in the Civil Records for this town back in the early twentieth century. As though that weren’t enough, we couldn’t be certain that even if we were on the correct street, and I thought we were, the numbers of the buildings were most probably wrong and could not be trusted. However, we took a photograph of the suspected building number 63 on S.S. 371, which appeared to be abandoned nonetheless, returning to the cafe after a short while in a light rain.
The Interview
The interview was done entirely in Italian and involved, for the most part, our guide and interpreter Frederica, from MindTheNap, and the Cafe Centrale’s owner Antonia De Cicco, with occasional statements and questions posed by our driver Fabio and my wife Patricia. No attempt has been made to separate voices of the different individuals speaking in the video. Moreover, the recording of each was taken by a phone at some distance, so the quality is not great and the volume may have to be adjusted to hear and understand what is being said. Additionally, in both cases, the recordings were started after the conversation had already begun. Lastly, the times on the left are approximate and may be off by quite a bit, depending on how the software that was used to analyze this recorded it. It was later re-edited by our guide with no changes to the time marks.
Interview Transcription And Translation
What follows is a transcription by our guide of the conversation as recorded, along with a fair translation into English, which isn’t perfect but good enough to understand what the conversation was about.
Transcript of PratolaSerra_DeCiccoInterview_Part1_Okt2021
[00:00:00] E sono morti qui a Pratola. I figli invece sono andati in America. E questo corrente è il nonno della signora,
And they died here in Pratola. Instead, the children went to America. And this current is the grandfather of the lady,
[00:00:08] Poi si è trasferito insomma.
Then he moved in short.
[00:00:10] Il Nonno della Maria Beatrice.
The grandfather of Maria Beatrice.
[00:00:12] No della Signora qua, questo è il nonno.
Not the Lady here, this is the grandfather.
[00:00:13] Il nonno, si.
The grandmother, yes.
[00:00:14] Benvenuto was your grandfather right? Yes, he was born here.
[00:00:19] Forse bisognava andare in Comune.
Perhaps it is necessary to go to the town hall.
[00:00:21] Ma non li hanno aiutati tanto, c’era il Signor Paolo
But they didn’t help them much, there was Mr. Paul
[00:00:23] Quella Paolo è un poco…Prima c’era un’altra signora che aiutava molto. Adesso no. Eh..Poi c’è un’altra folta…Molto i De Cicco sono in una frazione di Pratola Serra che si chiama Saudelle, la sono quasi tutti De Cicco o Di Cicco.
That Paul knows a little … Before that, there was another lady who helped a lot. Not now. Eh … Then there is another thick … A lot of the De Cicco are in a fraction of Pratola Serra which is called Saudelle, almost all are De Cicco or Di Cicco.
[00:00:47] Okay.
[00:00:47] Poi molti di questi De Cicco si sono spostati verso Monte aperto che prima era collegata con noi. Là c’è un’altra folta comunità di De Cicco diciamo.
Then many of these De Cicco moved to Monte Aperto which was previously connected with us. There is another large community of De Cicco, let’s say.
[00:01:02] Di questi nomi. Allora questo Antonio Di Cicco deceduto a Napoli nel 1859.
Of these names. Then this Antonio Di Cicco who died in Naples in 1859.
[00:01:10] Si sono sposati nell’82 quindi stiamo parlando comunque di quasi due secoli fa.
They got married in 1982 so we are talking about almost two centuries ago anyway.
[00:01:13] E quindi, ahhhhhh
And so, ahhhhhh
[00:01:16] Infatti quello è il problema, purtroppo ovviamente siamo molto indietro nel tempo.
In fact that is the problem, unfortunately we are obviously far behind in time.
[00:01:19] E Si, pensi che io sono nata nel 1959 quindi sono nata un secolo dopo.
And yes, when you think I was born in 1959, so I was born a century later.
[00:01:26] Non ma infatti stavo dicendo loro stavo dicendo loro che non avendo i parenti di questi quì che sono scesi che forse sono ancora a Pratola.
No, but in fact I was telling them, I was telling them that not having the relatives of these here, who have come down that maybe they are still in Pratola.
[00:01:32] Forse forse se Paolo aiutava, tra parentesi, uno poteva risalire ai parenti di Antonio Di Cicco e Maria Beatrice di Fabrizio, Di Fabrizio e quindi vedere quali erano i parenti e quindi risalire alla…
Perhaps, perhaps if Paul can help, by the way, one could go back to the relatives of Antonio Di Cicco and Maria Beatrice di Fabrizio, Di Fabrizio and then see which were the relatives and then go back to …
[00:01:53] Si perchè siccome loro sono tutti e tre andati in America il loro ramo della famiglia si è fermato a Pratola, non ha continuato. Però ora secondo me questo può aver continuato.
Yes, because since all three of them went to America, their branch of the family stopped in Pratola, it didn’t continue. But now, in my opinion, this may have continued.
[00:02:00] Sicuramente, sì. Per quello che mi ricordo io di questi Aniello, Fiore e Benvenuto di questi io non ho un ricordo ma…di questi nomi no. Antonio De Cicco ce ne sono ancora adesso svariati a Pratola, Di Cicco, De Cicco. Però secondo me le origini partono da Saudelle perché il ceppo là è nato diciamo che di questi..di questa si.
Surely. From what I remember, I don’t have a memory of these Aniello, Fiore and Benvenuto, but, I don’t remember these names. Antonio De Cicco there are still several in Pratola, Di Cicco, De Cicco. But in my opinion the origins start from Saudelle because the stock was born there let’s say that of these… of this one [family].
[00:02:31] Ok, perfetto, grazie mille.
Ok, perfect, thanks a lot.
Transcript of PratolaSerra_DeCiccoInterview_Part2_Okt2021
[00:00:00] Di passaggio
Passing
[00:00:01] Diciamo. Però i De Cicco venivano tutti da queste zone queste frazioni di Pratola via Saudelle oppure Serra di Pratola, ok un’altra cosa quindi, quindi poi dopo si è formato Pratola Serra…perché vedendo quando è nato 1859.
Let’s say. But the De Cicco family all came from these areas, these hamlets of Pratola via Saudelle or Serra di Pratola. Okay, one more thing then, then later Pratola Serra was formed… because seeing when he was born 1859.
[00:00:18] Potrebbe essere. E un’altra cosa signora, perché loro hanno recuperato il certificato di nascita del Nonno e dice che è nato a via Nazionale…via Nazionale é San Michele di Pratola e un’altra frazione di Pratola.
Could be. And another thing madam, because they have recovered the birth certificate of their grandfather and says that he was born in via Nazionale … via Nazionale is San Michele di Pratola, another hamlet of Pratola.
[00:00:32] C’è proprio via Nazionale. La strada che é via Nazionale. Okay, Via Nazionale sarebbe San Michele di Pratola Serra quindi la parte di là, la parte alta di…Perché Pratola Serra ha tre frazioni, Serra di Pratola che era il Comune originale, poi c’è San Michele di Pratola da noi comunemente detto masserie perché erano tutte masserie che sarebbe questa Zona qua.
There is just via Nazionale [she points to a street on the map]. The street that is via Nazionale. Okay, Via Nazionale would be San Michele di Pratola Serra so the part beyond, the upper part of… Because Pratola Serra has three hamlets: Serra di Pratola which was the original municipality, then there is San Michele di Pratola commonly used by us said farmers, because they were all farms that this area would be here.
[00:00:58] Se ho ben capito bene questa San Michele di Pratola è la strada che sale di fronte alla Fiat giusto?
If I understand correctly this San Michele di Pratola is the road that goes up in front of the Fiat [meaning the Fiat manufactorer in Pratola], right?
[00:01:03] No quella va a Serra di Pratola.
No that goes to Serra di Pratola.
[00:01:05] No quella è Serra di Pratola.
No that’s Serra di Pratola.
[00:01:06] Là sopra dove c’è il Castello che era il vecchio comune originale. San Michele di Pratola si sale di qua. Okay si sale di qua. Invece Via Saudelle. Salendo di qua dove c’è il c’è il plesso scolastico qui si va in campagna…dove c’è il cimitero dall’altro lato.
Up there, where there is the Castle [this must be the ruins of Casa dell’Orco], was the original old town. San Michele di Pratola, you go up from here. Okay go up here. Instead Via Saudelle. Going up from here, where there is the school complex, here you go to the countryside… where there is the cemetery on the other side.
[00:01:24] Okay però siccome lei ha detto via Nazionale allora è San Michele di Pratola
Okay but since you said via Nazionale, then it is San Michele di Pratola.
[00:01:30] Okay andiamo a controllare lì perfetto, grazie mille signora, Lì c’è un altro bar a San Michele…voi salite sopra…Allora andate al cimitero non il cimitero questo.
Okay, let’s check, there perfect [points to map on phone], thank you very much lady, there is another bar in San Michele… you go up… then go to this cemetery, not this cemetery.
[00:01:40] Quell’altro vecchio.
That other old one.
[00:01:41] Voi forse se volevate vedere qualcosa dovevate andare al cimitero quello vecchio.
Maybe if you wanted to see something, you have to go to the old cemetery.
[00:01:45] Ma ci hanno detto che non c’era niente là. No perché questo nuovo diciamo tra parentesi è stato aperto nel periodo del terremoto intorno agli anni ottanta diciamo quindi sicuramente i vecchi non c’erano qua perché il cimitero era quello.
But they told us there was nothing there. No, because this new one, let’s say in brackets, was opened in the period of the earthquake around the eighties, let’s say so surely the old ones weren’t here because that was the cemetery.
[00:02:00] Quello là vecchio sopra.
The old one over there.
[00:02:01] Salendo per il cimitero vecchio. Voi l’avete visto. Allora andate al cimitero vecchio dopo cento metri c’è un bivio. Sono le due varianti, voi andate dritto sopra e arrivata a San Michele di Pratola che in realtà è una strada lunga arrivate nella sommità dove c’è la chiesa c’è un bar là magari trovare qualcuno che vi vuole dare una mano.
Going up to the old cemetery. You have seen it. Then go to the old cemetery after a hundred meters there is a crossroads. There are two choices, you want to go straight up and then will arrive in San Michele di Pratola, which is actually a long road.
[00:02:25] Gentile come lei insomma.
In short, as kind as you are.
[00:02:27] Grazie signora. Grazie mille.
Thank you Madam. A thousand thanks.
The Municipal Building
Municipal Building – Pratola Serra – Oct 2021
After our nice conversation at the bar we visited the local Municipal Building, where the public records are held. We had to hurry, because it was getting late and nearing lunchtime, and we all know what that means in Italy. There, we checked in with the local hall monitor and waited in line, since there was already someone in the office and there were Covid restrictions in place.
Municipal Building – Pratola Serra – Receptionist
Once inside, it took our guide some time to convince the gentleman that was to help us, that we had come a long way and only needed a bit of information. At first, he was very resistant and complained mildly that he had to close in twenty minutes and was not sure he could help us in that time. However, after some cajoling and seeing that family tree that we had given our guide, his interest was piqued.
Frederica and Paolo (Paul) – Municipal Building – Pratola Serra – Oct 2021
Federica, our guide, slowly got him to open up on whether he could help us at all. He admitted that his local historic knowledge was not that great and that they had been sending many of the old historical civil documents to the main Municipal Building in Avellino.
Luckily, after perusing the family tree and seeing Benvenuto De Cicco’s name and his birth date, he went into the back room and emerged very quickly with a large ledger. He opened it and within a matter of seconds had Benvenuto’s birth record in front of us. Though I had already found this in the electronic archives that Italy has, I nonetheless took a photograph, if only to show him he hadn’t wasted his time with us.
Benvenuto De Cicco – Birth Record – Municipal Building – Pratola Serra – Oct 2021
It appeared after taking our photograph we had exhausted our time and it was also time for his lunch break.
The Old Cemetery
De Ciccos — St Michele Cemetery – PratolaSerra, Avelino – Oct 2021
The old cemetery is located on the outskirts of Pratola Serra on via Provinciale 61, or SP 61, in the direction of San Michele di Pratola. When we arrived, it happened to be open and though it was very cold with the threat of rain, we parked and went inside quickly to take as many photographs as we could. There was no doubt, there were a lot of De Ciccos and Fabrizios interred there, but after a thorough search no direct relations.
Saint Michele Di Pratola Cimitero – PratolaSerra, Avelino – Oct 2021
Restaurants
Valleverde Ristorante
Inside Restaurant Valleverde, Atripalda Avellino – Oct 2021
To complete our trip, our guide Frederica suggested lunch at a local restaurant on the way back to Naples. Located on Via Pianodardine, in Atripalda Avellino, the Valleverde Ristorante was a welcome sight after a day of exploring and investigations. We had a simple lunch that included water, wine and a pasta dish. And, as per usual with most restaurants in Italy, the food was delicious, well prepared and very reasonably priced. We had a great time and discussed what we thought we learned from the trip and what might be our next steps in our search for my wife’s living relatives, distant or otherwise. Again, Frederica and Fabio, at MindTheNap, did an excellent job and if you are ever in the Naples area and looking for a local guide, look them up, they are exceptional. Until next time, Ciao..!
The town’s name is actually one of great confusion, most likely because of all of the municipal and governmental changes through the years. Its actual name, at least when one looks back into the 19th and 20th centuries, is Pratola di Serra. This makes perfect sense, since there is a commune called Serra not far away. It is most likely that at one time it was just called Pratola and belonged to this commune and not Avellino, a change made later by governmental bodies.
After a few days traveling through the city we are beginning to get a better feel for this vibrant town. Divided into quarters or sections, but not along any obvious lines, there is reason to question where exactly you are at any given time. But one thing is for sure, you will find some uniqueness between them all. This is why its so important on spending some time in a large city such as Naples, which has over two million residents. Otherwise, there is no real way to get the actual vibe or quidditas of a place. I for one think it’s a great city and the Neapolitans are fantastic people.
A man working at a market stand – Vomero, Naples
After a few days traveling through the city we are beginning to get a better feel for this vibrant town. Divided into quarters or sections, but not along any obvious lines, there is reason to question at any given time where exactly your are, but one thing is for sure you will find some uniqueness. This is why its so important on spending some time in a large city such as Naples, which has over two million residents. Otherwise, there is no real way to get the actual vibe or quidditas of a place.
The real hard core vibe of Naples is the juxtaposition of the Centro Storico, or the historic center – with its throngs of tourists, against the backdrop and grittiness of The Spanish Quarter, the pandemonium of San Frenando, Porto and Mercato; and the quiet calm of Vomero and Chiaia. If you are looking for a city with stark contrasts, Naples is the city for you.
Naples – The Spanish Quarter
The Spanish Quarter
The Spanish Quarter obtained its name from the garrison of Spanish that were housed here and given the job to keep order throughout the city. It is entirely made up of narrow streets, passages, stairs and back alleyways that knit this complex community together. Directly alongside the Historic Center on one side and the hill of Vomero, it is quite self contained and apparently, from the looks of things, not very open to change, since from the looks of things nothing apparently has since they arrived.
Naples – Cruxifix and Cholera Memorial – The Spanish Quarter
The Spanish Quarter – Naples
The Spanish Quarter – Naples
With dirt and filth comes disease. As the photograph attests to a dramatic outbreak of cholera that swept through this part of the city in the 1800s, leaving behind devastation and death. Even today it is still actively adorned with flowers and other bits of memorabilia for protection, partly due to faith and partly due to superstition. Though all educated people know, it is easily combated with cleanliness and hygiene.
Centro Storico
The old part of the city has the most historical artifacts, churches and other points of interest. It is infested with tourists though, so planning is key. It is best to keep an eye on the number of cruise ships at dock (at any time there can be up to five very large ships docked) and then take your chances that you will have a minimal crowd.
Naples – Statue del Dio Nilo – San Lorenzo
As can be imagined there are a myriad of shops, cafes and restaurants in this area, which is comprised of the San Lorenzo Quarter. It is world famous for its Christmas Alley of Armeno, which is officially known as via San Gregorio Armeno.
Piazza Vincenzo Bellini – Roman Ruins – Naples – Centro Storico
Piazza Dante – via Port d’Alba – Centro Storico
Piazza Dante – Centro Storico
Piazza Dante – Centro Storico
Piazza Dante – Centro Storico
Armeno – Naples Christmas Alley
Deep in the heart of the historic center is a street that is known as Christmas Alley. It does not pay to explain, except through pictures.
Via San Gregorio Armeno – Christmas Alley – San Lorenzo Quarter
Via San Gregorio Armeno – Christmas Alley – San Lorenzo Quarter
Shops – Via San Gregorio Armeno – Christmas Alley – San Lorenzo Quarter
Vomero
Located on the hill adjacent to Chiaia and the Spanish Quarter is Vomero. Easily reached by taking one of the Funicular Trains from one of three places, Funicular Park in Chiaia, Augusteo in San Ferdinando or Montesanto in the Spanish Quarter. For a reasonable 1.10€ you can ascend to Vomero to visit the sights that it has to offer and enjoy its fine restaurants.
Tickets For Two – Funicular C.V. Emanuele
Funicular To Vomero
Funicular To Vomero
Funicular To Vomero
Funicular To Vomero
Funicular To Vomero
Castle Sant Elmo
In Vomero the Castle of Sant Elmo stands ever watchful over Naples. Known initially as Belforte, it was built sometime in the thirteenth century.
Tickets For Two – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Entrance Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
The castle is a sprawling edifice atop the hill commanding a view of all of Naples, including the hills behind it and the entire Gulf of Naples. Fitted previously with large guns, it must have been a formidable deterrent at one time. Visitors can walk the entirety of its parapets with all of its amazing views of the city, the gulf and surrounding islands.
Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Naples from Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
View of the Parapets – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Old Entrance – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Old Cannon – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Vesuvius and Bay of Naples from Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Bay of Naples – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Bay of Naples – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Watch Tower – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Bay of Naples – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Naples – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Bay of Naples – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Panorama of Naples and Vesuvius from Sant Elmo
Naples – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Mount Vesuvius – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
“See Naples and Die”
“See Naples and Die”
Cloister di San Martino
Cloister of San Martino – Vomero
Just below the Castle of Sant Elmo sits the monastery and cloister of San Martino. Converted into a museum, it too commands a view of the Gulf of Naples.
Royal and Religious Carriages
Hall with Religious Artwork
Collection of Artifacts
Creche dioramas on display
The museum has a selection of old royal carriages and artifacts from the late Renaissance. From old frescoes, paintings and church memorabilia it houses many religious antiquities from famous Napoletano church leaders. Then there are the creches of Christ’s birth, which are extremely detailed and draw your attention to every little thing that each one of the small characters is modeled to portray.
Restaurants
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria
One of the place to go apparently in Naples is Gino e Toto Sorbillo’s Pizzeria. Located on via dei Tribunali it gathers a crowd early, so getting there a half an hour or so ahead of time would reduce your wait. During normal times it may even be wiser to queue up earlier. We happen to go during a day when only one cruise ship arrived and got there twenty minutes early and we were about fourth in line. The place is rather large, but by the time we were finished people were waiting outside for some time.
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria – Store Front – San Lorenzo, Naples
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria – Menu – San Lorenzo, Naples
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria – Own Wine Label – San Lorenzo, Naples
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria – Classic Margherita – San Lorenzo, Naples
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria – Patti ready to eat – San Lorenzo, Naples
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria – Inside – San Lorenzo, Naples
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria – Inside – San Lorenzo, Naples
The pizza is simple but amazing. Having never eaten here before, we ordered the recommended Pizza Margherita. With a half bottle of their own red wine and some water we were quite full and happy when we left.
Armando Scartuchio
Armando Scartuchio is a chain of cafes with a rich history and several stores sprinkled throughout the city and a must place to stop. Though we only stopped at one, it must hold mostly true that any pastries made by this company taste more a less the same, no matter where you eat them. We found ours just outside the Spanish Quarter in Montecalvario.
Armando Scartuchio – Montecalvario, Naples
While staying in Naples it is an absolute necessity to stop each day around eleven o’clock or so to have coffee and a bite to eat. This is an excellent place to recharge your morning battery. Still early enough to order two Cappuccino and some very good baked goods, an excuse to drink, eat and further discuss the plans of the day. We ordered a few very interest things we thought we just had to taste.
Capucino, Lemon Tort and Chocolate Nut Cake
Lemon Tort and Chocolate Nut Cake
Pistachio Creme Cake
Display Case – Armando Scartuchio – Montecalvario, Naples
TrattoriaMalinconico
Situated well out of the way is Trattoria Malinconico. A place not often, if ever, visited by tourists, so they were quite interested and curious when we stopped for lunch.
Trattoria Malinconico – Vomero
For starters, this Trattoria is in Vomero, which is on top of the hill. Therefore you must either take one of the three funiculars to get there or climb a very large and then still walk a kilometer or so before reaching it. Even then, it is kind of hidden around the corner from the well established market street on the end of a dead end street in a sort of strip mall.
Beef Genovese with Pasta and Bread – Trattoria Malinconico – Vomero, Naples
In any case, the food is excellent and home cooked. Our interest was is getting the most authentic tasting Beef Genovese that we could find and our searches ended us up at this small but excellent establishment. What we found on the menu was actually that, but it was called Pasta Genovese with Meat, also known as Genovese Completa. It didn’t matter, for 8€ we ordered it with a mezzo litro of red wine and ate our hearts out.
