If you are an archaeological nut and ever have enough time to spend in Naples, you must visit the National Archaeological Museum. It houses an impressive collection from ancient Naples, from its ancient Greek roots through its Roman and Sicilian Empire phases, to the present. It also has a fabulous collection of artifacts from Pompeii and the Roman Period. It is found on the interesection of Piazza Cavour and Via Enrico Pessina. At the time of this writing, it can no longer be gotten to by the Museum Metro Stop, which has been closed for some time, but rather from the Piazza Cavour Metro Stop and then a short walk along that street.
National Archaeological Museum – Main Entrance
The Ground or First Floor – Main Gallery
The main gallery on the ground floor has a unique and amazing collection of statues, mostly from the Roman Period, but there are also more ancient sculptures as well. It features in the back of the hall the Farnese Bull from Roman times.
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Bull – Farnese Collection – Largest Sculpture from Antiquity
There are also a few other examples from the Farnese Collection, including Hercules and others. This section is definitely worth a quiet, long walk through with plenty of reading and afterthought. Examination of any one of these magnificent works reveal detail that someone in today’s day and age would think otherwise superfluous, and yet it would not be the work it is today without that fine attention to detail.
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Architectural Elements
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Large Statues – Roman
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Women Busts
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Hercules – Farnese Collection
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Dionysus and Eros
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Mermaid
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Busts of Leaders
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Relief
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Trapezium Table Support – Villa Madama – Homeric myth of Scylla gripping Ulysses’s sailors
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Relief
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Sarcophagus
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Large Statues
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Large Statues
Leaving the main gallery and proceeding upstairs you pass the two dominant representations of Ocean or Oceanus, the god the ultimate river – the oceans. It is still not none precisely the etymology of this word and therefore it may not have any antecendents. However, one look at these two figures and you can tell that whomever this god represented, he was a very serious fellow, he had to be the dominate force for all water.
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Large Statue of Ocean holding a cornucopia – Entrance to Upstairs
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Entrance to Upstairs
National Archaeological Museum – Statue Hall – Large Statue of Ocean holding an Oar and a Sea Dragon – Entrance to Upstairs
The First Floor – The Mosaic Gallery
Here one can find all sorts of ancient mosaics, however most are from Pompeii. Made of paste and ceramic all are equisitely done in the form of a story to tell the onlooker.
National Archaeological Museum – Mosaic Hall – Mosaics made with Glass and Paste
National Archaeological Museum – Mosaic Hall
National Archaeological Museum – Mosaic Hall – Numerous Household Examples
National Archaeological Museum – Mosaic Hall – From Houses
National Archaeological Museum – Mosaic Hall – Mosaics made with Glass and Paste
National Archaeological Museum – Mosaic Hall – Mosaics made with Glass and Paste
National Archaeological Museum – Mosaic Hall
National Archaeological Museum – Mosaic Hall – Leopard
National Archaeological Museum – Mosaic Hall
National Archaeological Museum – Mosaic Hall – Mosaics made with Glass and Paste
The Third Floor – The Glass Gallery
Has a small, succinct, but very important collection of ancient glass made during the Pompeiien and Roman periods. Some have handwork and detail that cannot be rivaled today.
National Archaeological Museum – Glass Gallery
National Archaeological Museum – Glass Gallery
The Gallery of Pompeiien Erotica
No visit would be complete without a visit to the erotic gallery, where all manner of erotica are on display from the dead city of Pompeii. The Quakers and the Puritans would have had a field day in this city at its peak. Not only was prostitution flaunted as an everday fact in everyone’s face, but the public had personal art created for display and enjoyment in their own houses. Without much else to say the following is shown as a slideshow, feel free to opt-out if you are not up to the intellectual and spiritual challenge.
National Archaeological Museum – Erotic Art
National Archaeological Museum – Erotic Art
National Archaeological Museum – Erotic Mythological Paintings
National Archaeological Museum – Erotic Art – Household Items From Pompeii
National Archaeological Museum – Erotic Art – House Doorbells From Pompeii
National Archaeological Museum – Erotic Art – Household Items From Pompeii
National Archaeological Museum – Erotic Art – Household Items From Pompeii
National Archaeological Museum – Erotic Art – Dish and Small Bronze
The Basement Floor – The Maritime Archaeological Gallery
All things maritime are located in the basement floor. A wide collection of maritime artifacts and archaeological specific display can be found in this section. There are also displays from the escavations of Pompeii having to do with the city itself, including is ancient public plumbing.
National Archaeological Museum – Maritime Hall – Old Signs
National Archaeological Museum – Maritime Hall – Ancient Trading Ports and Important Cities
National Archaeological Museum – Maritime Hall – Archaeological Map of Parthenope
National Archaeological Museum – Maritime Hall – Large Anchor
National Archaeological Museum – Maritime Hall – Old Lead Pipe
National Archaeological Museum – Maritime Hall – Reproduction of an Ancient Bark from Campania
Restaurants
Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria
A short fifteen minute walk away from the museum, down the Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli, Via San Sebastiano and Via Santa Chiara (all the same street mind you), you will find Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria. Another exceptional place with homemade creations to tempt most palettes. We entered this restaurant just before it started raining and were not disappointed, a fine place to visit with nice staff that is definitely NOT a tourist trap.
Naples, San Guiseppe – Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria – Inside
Naples, San Guiseppe – Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria – Inside
Naples, San Guiseppe – Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria – Fried Eggplant in a tomato reduction with pesto
Naples, San Guiseppe – Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria – Lacryma Red
Naples, San Guiseppe – Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria – Pasta Norman
Naples, San Guiseppe – Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria – Pasta with Peppers and Taralli
Naples, San Guiseppe – Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria – Tart with Pecans
Naples, San Guiseppe – Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria – Chocolate Cake with powdered sugar
In the back of Piazza San Gaetano, alongside the tower, you will find the entry point to a very interesting treat, and a very historically important place for understanding Naples as a city, especially its age. Here you will find the La Neapolis Sotterrate, or the ancient underground marketplace.
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Internal Palazzo with well
The Ancient Neapolis was founded back in the fifth century BCE by the Greeks. Many of the artifacts and architecture of this place date back to this time. The market, or Macellum, was a two story structure that ran along underneath the current structure of the convent which now stands over top of it. Many of the streets in this area start with Vico and not Via, indicating the ancient Greek origins (all streets that start with this have a corresponding ancient road structure beneath them).
The entry fee is minimal and they have guided tours available in English. We found the tour very informative and important in trying to appreciate the age of city of Naples. Here is a slide show with what you will see if you have time to consider this historical adventure.
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Model and Diorama
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Graves unearthed in the palazzo
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Entering Ancient Underground Marketplace
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace – Detail of pyramidal bricks
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace – Main Street or Vico
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Treasury
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace – Laundry
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace – Typical Two Room Store Layout
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace – Ancient Store
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace – Ancient Access Point
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace – Side Cul du Sac
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace – Ancient Bakery
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace – Current Escavations
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace – Old Mosaic Floor
La Neapolis Sotterrata – Ancient Underground Marketplace – Aqueduct Entry Point
There are a few cloisters in Naples worth visiting, if you have the time and interest. Since it was at the end of our trip and we were lacking time, we chose the Cloister of Santa Chiara to visit, which sits right in the middle of the Historic Center and not far from all of the shopping, which we were interested in doing as well.
Cloister – Tickets For Two
Chiostro di Santa Chiara
The cloister is behind a large church which suffered greatly during the allied bombings of Naples in the 1940s. Apparently the church took most of the damaged and the cloister was left, more of less, intact for us to enjoy today.
Outside the walls of Naples are the catacombs, the ancient burial grounds for the old Neapolis population. Neapolis is the ancient greek name for the city, which eventually morphed into Napoli, or Naples.
There are four known catacombs outside the city, two can be visited, the Catacombs of San Gennaro and the Catacombs of San Gaudioso. However, once you enter you quickly discover, that with some minor exceptions, there are no bodies here. In the former case they were exhumed by the French back in the 1700s and repatriated, in the latter they were moved to one of the other catacombs that currently cannot be visited.
Tickets for Two – Catacombs San Gennaro
Tickets for Two – Catacombs San Gaudioso
Catacombs of San Gennaro
About a mile from the old historic district off the Corso Amedeo di Savoia are the Catacombs of San Gennaro. The largest and least morbid of the two, this catacomb has an expansive underground and very interesting history. Since a guided tour is the only option possible, you learn all the details of the historical past of this catacomb, and some of the more perculiar fact (if you are willing to ask, e.g. where did all the bodies go – back to France). Since all catacombs, more or less look the same, here is a slide show.
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Baptismal Font – Catacombs San Gennaro
Church of San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Tickets for Two – Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs San Gennaro
Catacombs of San Gaudioso
Along the same road, about a fifteen minute walk back toward the city center, are the catacombs of San Gaudioso. These are underneath the Basilica di Santa Maria della Sanità and its entrance is actually in the Basilica. This tour actually contains skeletons, bones and sarcophagi buried in the walls, plastered over with their skulls sticking out and broken off (see show for examples).
Basilica di Santa Maria della Sanità – Catacombs San Gaudioso
Basilica di Santa Maria della Sanità – Catacombs San Gaudioso
Basilica di Santa Maria della Sanità – Ticket Office for the Catacombs San Gaudioso
Catacombs San Gaudioso – Patti descending
Catacombs San Gaudioso
Catacombs San Gaudioso
Catacombs San Gaudioso
Catacombs San Gaudioso
Catacombs San Gaudioso
Catacombs San Gaudioso
Dead People buried in wall, skull without faces – Catacombs San Gaudioso
Dead People buried in wall, skull without faces – Catacombs San Gaudioso
Catacombs San Gaudioso
Dead People buried in wall, skull without faces – Catacombs San Gaudioso
After a thorough introduction to Naples, we decided it was time to see some things we had shoved to one side until we got time.
Castle dell’Ovo
Castle dell’Ovo
Castel dell’Ovo, also known as The Egg or the Egg Castle is situated in the Bay of Naples. It used to be a small island, but was attached some time ago to make it more accessible. Entrance is free, even though you do have to schedule your attendance online. However, aside from the views, there truly is not much to see. It appears to have been reused for administration and other city or port related uses.
Hallway to art exhibit
Art exhibit
Along the parapets
Chiaia, Naples from the castle
Patti at the Castle
Vesuvius
The Bourbon Tunnels
There are tunnels, aqueducts and other underground features all throughout Naples. None has probably had more contemporary use than the Bourbon Tunnels, which were converted and used during World War II as bomb shelters and storage. There are two entrances to this underground museum, for scheduling reason we had to enter Vico del Grottone, the same street that our restaurant below for lunch was on, so very convenient.
Tickets for Two – Bourbon Tunnels
The following of our tour is provided uncaptioned, there is more information in the above internet link.
Patti descending
Patti
WW II electricity installlation
Restaurants
Trattoria da Ettore
This trattoria, as many others outside of the touristy areas, is an excellent little mom and pop restaurant. It has only six tables and when they are full for lunch, you are turned away (the same is true for dinner and probably for most restaurants in Italy, when they are full, they are full, so get there early). It is located on Vico del Grottone and it is figuratively speaking a hole in the wall.
After a few days traveling through the city we are beginning to get a better feel for this vibrant town. Divided into quarters or sections, but not along any obvious lines, there is reason to question where exactly you are at any given time. But one thing is for sure, you will find some uniqueness between them all. This is why its so important on spending some time in a large city such as Naples, which has over two million residents. Otherwise, there is no real way to get the actual vibe or quidditas of a place. I for one think it’s a great city and the Neapolitans are fantastic people.
A man working at a market stand – Vomero, Naples
After a few days traveling through the city we are beginning to get a better feel for this vibrant town. Divided into quarters or sections, but not along any obvious lines, there is reason to question at any given time where exactly your are, but one thing is for sure you will find some uniqueness. This is why its so important on spending some time in a large city such as Naples, which has over two million residents. Otherwise, there is no real way to get the actual vibe or quidditas of a place.
The real hard core vibe of Naples is the juxtaposition of the Centro Storico, or the historic center – with its throngs of tourists, against the backdrop and grittiness of The Spanish Quarter, the pandemonium of San Frenando, Porto and Mercato; and the quiet calm of Vomero and Chiaia. If you are looking for a city with stark contrasts, Naples is the city for you.
Naples – The Spanish Quarter
The Spanish Quarter
The Spanish Quarter obtained its name from the garrison of Spanish that were housed here and given the job to keep order throughout the city. It is entirely made up of narrow streets, passages, stairs and back alleyways that knit this complex community together. Directly alongside the Historic Center on one side and the hill of Vomero, it is quite self contained and apparently, from the looks of things, not very open to change, since from the looks of things nothing apparently has since they arrived.
Naples – Cruxifix and Cholera Memorial – The Spanish Quarter
The Spanish Quarter – Naples
The Spanish Quarter – Naples
With dirt and filth comes disease. As the photograph attests to a dramatic outbreak of cholera that swept through this part of the city in the 1800s, leaving behind devastation and death. Even today it is still actively adorned with flowers and other bits of memorabilia for protection, partly due to faith and partly due to superstition. Though all educated people know, it is easily combated with cleanliness and hygiene.
Centro Storico
The old part of the city has the most historical artifacts, churches and other points of interest. It is infested with tourists though, so planning is key. It is best to keep an eye on the number of cruise ships at dock (at any time there can be up to five very large ships docked) and then take your chances that you will have a minimal crowd.
Naples – Statue del Dio Nilo – San Lorenzo
As can be imagined there are a myriad of shops, cafes and restaurants in this area, which is comprised of the San Lorenzo Quarter. It is world famous for its Christmas Alley of Armeno, which is officially known as via San Gregorio Armeno.
Piazza Vincenzo Bellini – Roman Ruins – Naples – Centro Storico
Piazza Dante – via Port d’Alba – Centro Storico
Piazza Dante – Centro Storico
Piazza Dante – Centro Storico
Piazza Dante – Centro Storico
Armeno – Naples Christmas Alley
Deep in the heart of the historic center is a street that is known as Christmas Alley. It does not pay to explain, except through pictures.
Via San Gregorio Armeno – Christmas Alley – San Lorenzo Quarter
Via San Gregorio Armeno – Christmas Alley – San Lorenzo Quarter
Shops – Via San Gregorio Armeno – Christmas Alley – San Lorenzo Quarter
Vomero
Located on the hill adjacent to Chiaia and the Spanish Quarter is Vomero. Easily reached by taking one of the Funicular Trains from one of three places, Funicular Park in Chiaia, Augusteo in San Ferdinando or Montesanto in the Spanish Quarter. For a reasonable 1.10€ you can ascend to Vomero to visit the sights that it has to offer and enjoy its fine restaurants.
Tickets For Two – Funicular C.V. Emanuele
Funicular To Vomero
Funicular To Vomero
Funicular To Vomero
Funicular To Vomero
Funicular To Vomero
Castle Sant Elmo
In Vomero the Castle of Sant Elmo stands ever watchful over Naples. Known initially as Belforte, it was built sometime in the thirteenth century.
Tickets For Two – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Entrance Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
The castle is a sprawling edifice atop the hill commanding a view of all of Naples, including the hills behind it and the entire Gulf of Naples. Fitted previously with large guns, it must have been a formidable deterrent at one time. Visitors can walk the entirety of its parapets with all of its amazing views of the city, the gulf and surrounding islands.
Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Naples from Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
View of the Parapets – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Old Entrance – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Old Cannon – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Vesuvius and Bay of Naples from Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Bay of Naples – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Bay of Naples – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Watch Tower – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Bay of Naples – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Naples – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Bay of Naples – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Panorama of Naples and Vesuvius from Sant Elmo
Naples – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
Mount Vesuvius – Sant Elmo Castle – Vomero
“See Naples and Die”
“See Naples and Die”
Cloister di San Martino
Cloister of San Martino – Vomero
Just below the Castle of Sant Elmo sits the monastery and cloister of San Martino. Converted into a museum, it too commands a view of the Gulf of Naples.
Royal and Religious Carriages
Hall with Religious Artwork
Collection of Artifacts
Creche dioramas on display
The museum has a selection of old royal carriages and artifacts from the late Renaissance. From old frescoes, paintings and church memorabilia it houses many religious antiquities from famous Napoletano church leaders. Then there are the creches of Christ’s birth, which are extremely detailed and draw your attention to every little thing that each one of the small characters is modeled to portray.
Restaurants
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria
One of the place to go apparently in Naples is Gino e Toto Sorbillo’s Pizzeria. Located on via dei Tribunali it gathers a crowd early, so getting there a half an hour or so ahead of time would reduce your wait. During normal times it may even be wiser to queue up earlier. We happen to go during a day when only one cruise ship arrived and got there twenty minutes early and we were about fourth in line. The place is rather large, but by the time we were finished people were waiting outside for some time.
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria – Store Front – San Lorenzo, Naples
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria – Menu – San Lorenzo, Naples
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria – Own Wine Label – San Lorenzo, Naples
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria – Classic Margherita – San Lorenzo, Naples
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria – Patti ready to eat – San Lorenzo, Naples
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria – Inside – San Lorenzo, Naples
Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria – Inside – San Lorenzo, Naples
The pizza is simple but amazing. Having never eaten here before, we ordered the recommended Pizza Margherita. With a half bottle of their own red wine and some water we were quite full and happy when we left.
Armando Scartuchio
Armando Scartuchio is a chain of cafes with a rich history and several stores sprinkled throughout the city and a must place to stop. Though we only stopped at one, it must hold mostly true that any pastries made by this company taste more a less the same, no matter where you eat them. We found ours just outside the Spanish Quarter in Montecalvario.
Armando Scartuchio – Montecalvario, Naples
While staying in Naples it is an absolute necessity to stop each day around eleven o’clock or so to have coffee and a bite to eat. This is an excellent place to recharge your morning battery. Still early enough to order two Cappuccino and some very good baked goods, an excuse to drink, eat and further discuss the plans of the day. We ordered a few very interest things we thought we just had to taste.
Capucino, Lemon Tort and Chocolate Nut Cake
Lemon Tort and Chocolate Nut Cake
Pistachio Creme Cake
Display Case – Armando Scartuchio – Montecalvario, Naples
TrattoriaMalinconico
Situated well out of the way is Trattoria Malinconico. A place not often, if ever, visited by tourists, so they were quite interested and curious when we stopped for lunch.
Trattoria Malinconico – Vomero
For starters, this Trattoria is in Vomero, which is on top of the hill. Therefore you must either take one of the three funiculars to get there or climb a very large and then still walk a kilometer or so before reaching it. Even then, it is kind of hidden around the corner from the well established market street on the end of a dead end street in a sort of strip mall.
Beef Genovese with Pasta and Bread – Trattoria Malinconico – Vomero, Naples
In any case, the food is excellent and home cooked. Our interest was is getting the most authentic tasting Beef Genovese that we could find and our searches ended us up at this small but excellent establishment. What we found on the menu was actually that, but it was called Pasta Genovese with Meat, also known as Genovese Completa. It didn’t matter, for 8€ we ordered it with a mezzo litro of red wine and ate our hearts out.
On our return trip from Romania, we took a few days from the 22nd to the 24th of September, to stay in Milan with our sons. The point was to relax a bit, before they took their return flight from Malpensa Airport back to the States, and to see a few of the sights. We were lucky enough this time to have had the luxury of purchasing tickets. That is, within six months of their use, in order to visit Da Vinci’s Last Supper and Crucifixion, two works by him that are the most difficult to see. Luckily, few people for various reasons are able to travel or visit these works now, making access to them more readily available. So we jumped at that chance when we saw tickets were in fact available.
Milan – Museum Cenacolo Vinciano – Tickets For Two
I am not going to comment on Da Vinci’s work, but let his masterpieces speak for themselves.
Hotel Manzoni
Located in Milan’s Quadrilatero Della Moda section, this four star hotel can be found on Via Santo Spirito. Both outside and inside are quite compact and very well kept. There is a bellman to help with luggage and front desk that is occupied around the clock.
Milan – Hotel Manzoni
Our rooms were suites and rather spacious for being in the historic part of Milan. Most floors are decorated in marble with tastefully chosen chandeliers, some of which are from Murano.
Milan – Hotel Manzoni – Floors
Milan – Hotel Manzoni – Lobby
Museum Cenacolo Vinciano
The museum is located in Piazza di Santa Marie della Grazie and contains the works of Leonardo Da Vinci’s Last Supper and Crucifixion.
Da Vinci’s The Last Supper and Crucifixion – Viewing Area
Da Vinci’s Last Supper
Da Vinci’s The Last Supper
Da Vinci’s The Last Supper – Original Shot
Da Vinci’s Crucifixion
Da Vinci’s Last Supper
Da Vinci’s Last Supper – Details
Legend:
Christ
Tito
Dimaco
St. Vincent Ferrer
Ludovico il Moro
St. Peter Martyr
Virgin Mary
St. Dominic
Mary Magdalene
St. Thomas Aquinas
St. John
St. Catherin of Siena
Beatrice d’Este
St. Maragaret of Hungary
Restaurants
Near Hotel Manzoni are several very good restaurants, as is per usual in most Quadrilateral sections of Italian cities. Since we did not have a lot of time to spend in Milan, the below two were identified and chosen based on customer reviews and not necessarily the most common ones used on the internet. Anyone visiting should expect the prices to reflect the food and the historic area they are in. Complaining about prices, when you probably should be eating street pizza, is just a waste of your time and money.
Il Salumaio Di Montenapoleone
Though it receives only a mid four star rating on one site in the internet, that should not deter anyone from visiting. Keep in mind, that if you are from a country like the U.S. or one similar to it from Europe, service times are not the same in Italy and may not match your expectations. Service usually takes around two hours, especially if you order wine and any other extras, but it is first rate. Dress is casual and the food and service are excellent.
Milan – Ristorante Il Salumaio Di Montenapoleone
Milan – Ristorante Il Salumaio Di Montenapoleone – Tristan and Dana
Milan – Ristorante Il Salumaio Di Montenapoleone – Courtyard
Ristorante Bice
Also known as Da Gino e Bice (from Gino and Beatrice) or just Bice, this Tuscan inspired restaurant has been a mainstay of Milan cuisine for more than a century. The restaurant’s upscale interior matches its food. It is also situated in Montanapoleone on Via Borgospesso and a short walk from our hotel.
Milan – Ristorante Bice
Milan – Ristorante Bice – Tristan and Patti
Milan – Ristorante Bice – Dana and Tristan
Milan – Ristorante Bice – A Very Good Gaja from Montalcino
This restaurant has an excellent menu and wine list, though upon further inspection I found the wine list needing a bit of an update in the Barolo section. But we found an acceptable one nonetheless. Again, being in a very trendy area where Fendi, Prada and other stores are located, the prices reflect the location and the menu’s quality.
A drive of some distance from Buşteni lies the town of Bran. Somewhat nondescript, but having all the trappings of a typical tourist area, it is for sure a more relaxed atmosphere than the Prahova Valley.
Bran Castle – Interior
Its claim to fame is of course Castle Bran, the so called home of Vampires, Count Dracula and other Penny Dreadful, that Bram Stoker made so famous. It neither has the feel nor unearthly aura of a place where so many horrors could have ostensibly been committed by Vlad Tepes, or more noteworthy, Vlad the Impaler, as current folklore would have it. Overall, it was an interesting day trip, warranted by the excellent restaurant we ate at, and to finally put to rest in our own minds exactly what all the vampire fuss is about. Others will probably have similar epiphanies if they visit, just as I did.
Parking on E574 – Castle Bran
Bran – The Town
Bran is an out of the way town which seems to enjoy some tourist traffic, but only because of its namesake. It lies on E574, which is on the west side of the Bucegi Range of the Southern Carpathian Mountains and about an hour’s ride from Buşteni, that is in good weather and when there is no bridge or road construction (something we were unfortunate enough to experience on our return to Buşteni).
Bran – E574
Bran – E574 – The Town
Bran – E574 – Walking To The Castle
Bran – E574 – Street Vendors
Bran – E574 – Street Vendors
Bran – Vendors Along Bran Castle Entrance
Bran – Along Bran Castle Entrance
The rivers Poarta and Turcul run through the town, but they are hardly noticed due to their diminutive sizes. There are several places to park, a very large overflow parking area may be found on Strada Doctor Aurel Stoian, when the tourist season is in full gear. We parked in the Castel Parking place off of E574, right next to the restaurant we visited for lunch.
Bran – Bran Castle Entrance
Bran – Bran Castle Entrance with Celtic Cross with Romanian Cyrillic characters.
Bran – Bran Castle Entrance
Castle Bran
The castle is perched on the side of a hill of the western Bucegi Range and commands a view of the entire countryside, as well as the valley below through which the river Turcul runs. One can hardly doubt that it is fixed to its position with the help of an outcropping of rock, for which Bram Stoker used against it to steal its reference from an illustrative book. It is of course a misrepresentation and artistic license that allowed him to do this, though some in this area would detail occurrences of Strigoi, evil spirits who wander the night between the hours of midnight and daybreak, in his defense. But one should not think them related to the castle, nor Vlad the Impaler, who, as evidence would suggest, has become a victim of his own success to levy tariffs and taxes on the German merchants who did not want to pay. The idea of money representing blood, blood money, etc., is not without parallel in our own history.
Celtic Cross – Romanian Cyrillic Characters
The castle has no doubt cashed in on the mythology of Dracula or Count Dracul, however, they are careful not to inflame any details regarding this myth. There are little to no reference to Count Dracula nor Vlad as an Impaler. However, there is a very good Torture museum on the grounds, which for about 10€ more will gain you entrance.
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
Bran – Bran Castle – Torture Museum
The character of Dracula is often confused with Vlad Tepes, also known as Vlad Dracul, who was a Walachian Prince who lived in Bran Castle. It is the only castle in all of Transylvania that can possibly fit Bram Stoker’s description of the castle that Dracula in his book lived in; hence, it is now known throughout the world as Dracula’s Castle. His novel described the castle as,
. . . on the very edge of a terrific precipice . . . with occasionally a deep rift where there is a chasm [of] silver threads where the rivers winds in deep gorges through the forests.
Bram Stoker obviously stole the appellation from an illustrated book that showed Bran Castle and then took it as his fictitious abode for Count Dracula. He used rather straightforward references to imply the he meant none other than Vlad Tepes, who was the Wallachian Rules from 1456 until 1467, and who, for political reasons, was labeled as a blood thirsty tyrant, as has already been previously mentioned.
Nonetheless, in Bran and the villages nearby, one can still find the belief in the existence of evil spirits called Strigoi. There was and still a belief that there exist certain living people, or Strigoi, who lead an abnormal life at night, when during sleep, their souls leave their bodies and haunt the village tormenting people while they sleep. These evil spirits supposedly haunt their prey from midnight until dawn, when sunlight appears to affect their powers and their potential to do harm fades. The character of Dracula derives no doubt most of its power from these local myths, there is no other explanation for its endurance. Its power has however faded over time, that is, when exposed to the corrosive of the sunlight of education and scientific scrutiny, as most other things preternatural.
Bran Castle – Tickets For Two
In the Fall of 1462, thirty years before Columbus visited the New World, an army of the Hungarian King Matei Corvin captured Vlad Tepes near Rucar. He was taken to Bran Castle and imprisoned there for at least two months. This could quite possibly be his one and only association with the castle. Where others have tried to fabricate, inveigle or obfuscate the narrative of Count Dracula from the Stoker book, history reveals the truth. Sleep well.
Restaurants
There are many restaurants in Bran, the most convenient one that we found was directly next to the parking lot we used. However there are several others that are without a doubt very convenient and good to use as well.
Bran – Casa di Bran
Casa di Bran
This restaurant offered a very cosmopolitan and Romanian based menu, one for which anyone could order something to please them.
Bran – Casa di Bran – Dobre, Gabi, Ioana Secara, Theresa Griffin and Ericka (née Griffin) Secara
Bran – Casa di Bran – Jason and Meagan Reinfried, Tristan, Patti and Dana Griffin – Case di Bran
Above are my choices for lunch which included wine, coffee and dessert, though all were served à la carte.
Potato Soup – Mistranslated as Vegetable Soup
Braised Chicken with Salad
Our family had a very good lunch, while it rained for a while outside. Good timing before our visit to the castle.
Another small town quaintly tucked under the ever watchful eye of Mount Furnica of the Bucegi Range is Sinaia. Out of sight of N60 and tucked away under this hill is a real star town, replete with many large hotels and even a casino for anyone wishing to try their luck in a Romanian tourist location.
Sinaia – Peleş Castle – At the foot of the Bucegi Range – 19th of September, 2021
On the 19th of September we ventured down to this town which sits just below Buşteni, in order to enjoy lunch, the town and to visit Castle Peleş.
Sinaia – The Town
This town is much like Buşteni, aside from the fact that it appears to have more money and is well maintained; no doubt due to the large hotels and the casino that are part of it. It lies on the same strip of N60 which runs north to south its neighbor to the north.
Sinaia – Boulevard Carol I – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia – Boulevard Carol I – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia – Boulevard Carol I Market – 19th of September, 2021
The Prahova River runs alongside the town, as well as a line of the Romanian Railroad; but unlike Buşteni, the railroad does not interfere with this town at all. Traffic however can still be problematic at times, just because of the nature of N60 being the only straight road in these parts, especially during rush hour times. The good news though is, once off of N60, traffic in and through the town seems well controlled by a series of traffic circles and other parallel streets. While we were there they were having an outside market, which apparently drew a lot of locals.
Castle Peles
The Castle Peleş is more or less renovated and is a government run venue hosting tours, both self-pacing and private. It is rather large and consists of many separate rooms that are rather elaborate, including an arms room, study, reception, large dining hall, library and a grand hall that has a most unique wooden spiral staircase with an electrically operated roof that opens fully (though no proof or demonstrations were offered nor provided).
Sinaia – Castle Peleş – Tickets For Two – 19th of September, 2021
The castle was built sometime between 1873 and 1914, based on the architects Wilhelm Doderer and Johannes Schultz, both of which were German. The structure was later modernized by the Czech architect Karel Liman. And though some on the internet would suggest or assert it has anything to do with Count Dracula (Vlad the Impaler), it does NOT. That sole claim belongs to Bran Castle to the west.
Sinaia – Strada Actavia Goga to Castle Peleş – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia – Allee Carmen Sylva to Castle Peleş – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia – Allee Carmen Sylva to Castle Peleş – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia – Allee Carmen Sylva to Castle Peleş – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia – Allee Carmen Sylva to Castle Peleş – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia – Castle Peleş – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia – Castle Peleş – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia – Castle Peleş – 19th of September, 2021
The first inauguration of the building occurred in 1883 and introduced central heating to Romania, as well as an electric system that operated the large glass roof enclosure. It also had a vacuum cleaner, air ducts for heating and an electric elevator.
Sinaia – Courtyard Castle Peleş – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia – Courtyard Castle Peleş – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia – Courtyard Castle Peleş – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia – Courtyard Castle Peleş – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia – Courtyard Castle Peleş – 19th of September, 2021
The castle is the former summer residence of King Carole I and Queen Elisabeth. It was used as part of the Romanian National Dynasty and often used for important political and other European cultural decisions at the turn of the century. It incorporates a synthesis of Neo-Renaissance (both German and Italian), Neo-Baroque, Rococo as well as French and Oriental styles.
The Monastery
On the way down from Castle Peleş is the Sinaia Monastery. It consists of three parts, the monastery proper (a set of buildings that surround the old chapel), the old chapel or church and the great church.
Sinaia Monastery – Entrance – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia Monastery – Entrance – 19th of September, 2021
The original monastery was built in the late 1600s by Mihail Cantacuzino. Construction was due in part by a promise he made to the monks of Saint Anne and Nicholas, which lived at the time in nearby hermitages. He subsequently gave it the name, The Dormition of the Holy Virgin Mary, in memory of a pilgrimage he had taken at one time to the Holy Land.
Sinaia Monastery – Great Church – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia Monastery – Great Church – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia Monastery – Grounds – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia Monastery – Grounds – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia Monastery – Grounds – 19th of September, 2021
It is quite unique in Romania since it forms a Latin cross, unlike the more traditional Orthodox styles, giving it the origins of the later Walachian and Brancoveanu styles. The churches profiles are very different from other forms in Romania since they replaced the traditional cornices with red brick dents; the facade frames are rectangular and painted with frescos, as well as the absence of the traditional belt.
Sinaia Monastery – Entrance Old Chapel – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia Monastery – Entrance Old Chapel – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia Monastery – Old Chapel – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia Monastery – Back of Old Chapel – 19th of September, 2021
The old chapel was burned in 1791 during the Russian-Austrian-Turkish war and restored somewhat in 1795 by the same painters who had decorated the chapel. The paintings on the porch are all original and present scenes from the life of Saint Catherine (the protector of the monastery), Saint George (protector of soldiers and Moldavia) and Saint Demetrios (protector of Walachia). Important scenes from both Heaven and Hell frame the entrance to the church.
Sinaia Monastery – Old Chapel Interior – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia Monastery – Old Chapel Interior – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia Monastery – Old Chapel Interior – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia Monastery – Old Chapel Interior – 19th of September, 2021
Sinaia Monastery – Old Chapel Interior – 19th of September, 2021
The entrance represents Moses and his brother Aaron and are built in carved stone. The nave of the church depicts the Ascension and Transfiguration, related to the secret nature of praying rightly to the divine or also known as hesychasm.
Dijon’s claim to fame is the invention of its namesake mustard. Created in 1856 by one of its residence when he substituted the acidic juice of unripe grapes to his mustard mixture, instead of the customary vinegar. It has spawned many varieties and has a world renowned reputation for one of the best mustard types.
Maille Mustard – One Of Many Famous Dijon Mustard Types
Dijon was actually a second thought, a chance detour in our travel itinerary. We had thought that aside from mustard, there was actually nothing of interest or note in this city. I have to say, for the record, we were both pleasantly surprised and would recommend this small city of about 160,000 over some of their more populated cousins we have already seen.
A note, perhaps a generalization, about the French people. They were extremely polite, genial and very attentive to us at all times. We never received any negative feedback when trying to get into restaurant or other venues, in fact they all seemed extremely helpful. However, we did find some of their hotel appliances to be most annoying and counter-intuitive. But as for the French themselves, they appear to be first rate, accommodating and very friendly.
Our Hotel
We stayed at the Grand Hotel Le Cloche, located on Avenue de la 1ère Armée Français, which is eminently close to the train station and the entrance to the old historic part of town.
Grand Hotel Le Cloche
This hotel has plenty of room and large bathrooms, which are uncommon generally in Europe. Our room had a nice view of the courtyard and small park inside the confines of the hotel.
The Historic Center Of Dijon
From our hotel the center of the old historic part of town was directly through the Arch or Porte Guillaume. The Park Darcy, directly across the avenue from our hotel is the starting point for a city sponsored Owl Trail. For three euros you can purchase a booklet that details and explains more than two dozen points of interest throughout the city.
Some points of interest are rather hidden from the casual observer and required either a keen eye or a brochure, like the one aforementioned, we found it a handy guide.
One such site was the House of Maillard, which contains a most unusual collection of stone figures carved into the wall. It also has a very old wooden staircase and a helical one in a very confined space. This place is reached by a very inconspicuous door which leads to a long, dimly lit hallway made of old wooden timber and stone. Definitely worth a visit.
Maison Maillard
Hallway To Maison Maillard
Maison Maillard
Stone Column Men in Maison Maillard
Old Staircases – Maison Maillard
The owl trail takes you past several noteworthy sights, including many buildings built in what Americans would recognize as Tudor-style or Fachwerk, is typically known as Timber-Framing. The following examples are easily found throughout the city and in some cases demonstrate the age of the buildings and the city itself.
An Old Timber Frame House
An Old Timber Frame House At Place Francois Rude
And yet one of the strangest houses seen in Dijon appears below, owing to the flared roofing around several of its dormers.
Odd Building Between Rue Du Temple And Rue Du Chateau
Another characteristic of housing in this area is the roofing. Most of the materials here are reminiscent of the typical ones you would find in France, Germany and Italy. However, some are distinct for this area of Burgundy and are clad in a specific design and pattern specific to this region of France.
Burgundy Roof On The Church Saint Benigne De Dijon
Most of these roofs have a distinctive yellow, green, brown – almost terracotta color and black. The patterns vary a bit, but seem to stick to a central weaved look from below.
Churches
There are again numerous churches in Dijon, all of which have their own interesting history. Obviously one has to have the name of Our Lady, or Notre-Dame, and it is situated on the Place Notre Dame of the main street Rue des Forges.
Notre-Dame de Dijon
Built in the thirteenth century is an excellent example of Burgundian architecture. The facade sports a collection of gargoyles, all of which have a difference appearance and most likely meaning. They must have given the worshipers pause as they entered its archway, especially one can imagine when it was raining and some were spouting water from their mouths.
Facade of Notre-Dame de Dijon
Interior of Notre-Dame de Dijon
Notre-Dame de Dijon at night
The front entrance shows enormous amount of wear and can only be attributed to poor quality stone that must have been used in some of its construction, or a deliberate act of destruction or vandalism.
Museum Of Sacred Art
Remaining Part Of Saint Anne’s Church
Not actually a church anymore, the Church of Saint Anne of Dijon now houses a museum of sacred art that includes vestments, chalices and other historical religious artifacts.
Restaurants
We ate at a few very good restaurants in Dijon, one of which was an amazing learning experience, the other noted for its exceptional taste based on years of expectations (that is, french cooking and their meat).
L’Aspérule
A fine dining establishment run by a renowned chef Keigo Kimura and only opened in 2019, this restaurants has all anyone would want to eat. I would consider it a French-Asian Fusion restaurant, where the owner takes Asian liberties with known French classics, the results of which are astounding. We are not food critics, but all we could say when we left this restaurant was, WOW!
L’Aspérule – Chicken Appetizer with a Gevrey-Chambertin 2015
As expected with most fine establishments, seating was limited and inside, so it is necessary to get a reservation. We found ourselves lucky, in that they had one seating left the evening when we visited, so we jumped at the chance.
Cold Pea Soup with Bacon Creme and Croutons
White Fish with Chitake Mushroom and Noodles
Crab In Mayonaisse Reduction With Japanese Radish
Ground Guinea Fowl with Whipped Potatoes in Foie Gras Butter
Braised Guinea Fowl Breast over Zucchini Compote in Sauce with Fried Seaweed
Dessert with a Chocolate Ball with Mousse – Cracker with Vanilla and Apricot Ice Cream and Fruit
The inside of my Dessert of Chocolate Ball With Mousse – Cracker with Vanilla and Apricot Ice Cream and Fruit
The menu promised either a flight off six or seven courses, starting with an appetizer and working our way up to two different ways to cook Guinea Fowl. The highlight of our meal was both the 2015 Gevry-Chambertin Red Wine and the Ground Guinea Fowl with Whipped Potatoes in Foie Gras Butter served in a cup. It gives me Guinea Fowl bumps just thinking about it again.
Chez Léon
Chez Léon offered a more relaxed atmosphere outside, during a rather warm evening. We were lucky to enjoy a breeze now and again and luckily the lack of any smokers nearby.
Traditional Racette – Eggs In Bourgogne Sauce
Beef Bourgogne
Crepe Suzette with Grand Mariner Sauce
Layers of my Crepe Suzette
Aperitif – Chartreuse Jaune with Ice
The food at this restaurant was traditional Burgundian which we had both wanted to sample before we left the area. Our chef did not disappoint, the menu was full of the expected entrees and some with which we were not yet familiar. I ordered a half-liter of the Givry Red Wine when we placed our orders for the Beef Bourgogne that was one the menu. I upped the ante a bit but ordering an appetizer that used the same sauce as our main entree, but also contained two soft boiled eggs, a specialty they call Oeufs de Poul Bio en Meurette, Recette Traditionnelle.
In Conclusion
Visiting Dijon was a real treat, one we had not expected. Given its many appealing qualities, especially its food, we would recommend it to anyone.
