Turin – Museum Reali – Da Vinci Exhibit

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Museum Reali – Main Entrance

For the next few months, the Museum Reali here in Turin is sponsoring an exhibit of some of Leonardo da Vinci’s works. TicketsForTwoSo my wife and I thought it would be a great opportunity to see the originals of his work for which up to now we have only been fortunate enough to see in books.

The tickets are actually purchased at the ticket office, for which there are plenty of signs to point you in the correct direction (you shouldn’t get lost.) The entrance fee is a bit high, 15€/person, but we thought it is Leonardo and his works usually do not disappoint. So we purchased our tickets and headed to the museum.

One word of caution, though it is advertised that there are some fifty plus works in the collection, they are not all produced by Leonardo. Some are only attributed to him through his working with colleagues and apprentices. So one must pay attention to the note cards for each piece or, if you have paid for it, the audio headset (we no longer get these since we have always found them not to work very well.)

Dioramas and Models

The collection boasts of a few models and dioramas which the visitor can enjoy. Though not directly built by Leonardo, they are from designs that he had put forth in his many notebooks and journals.

ScythedChariot
Allesandro Siriati’s – Scythed Chariot, 1956

Anatomical Studies and Drawings

Most the of original Leonardo works have to do with his studies of human and animal forms. He was particularly adept at musculature and studies of the face.

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Hercules with the Nemean Lion, 1505-08

According to the museum, the above drawing was probably an initial sketch for a proposed statue that never was made. It was apparently destined to stand next to his statue of David in Florence once it was completed.

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da Vinci – Male head in profile with a Laurel, 1506-11

There are several sketches and drawings of the human head. Some, like the above, just to capture the heroic nature of some of his models. Others for more exact studies into the human proportions of the face and all of its parts.

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da Vinci – Studies of the Proportions of the Face and of the Eye, 1489-90

The one on the left above was a study in the proportions of the eye. This was subsequently glued onto another sheet to join it to his study of the proportions of the overall face. Both show Leonardo‘s interest in the mathematical proportions of his subjects and how they were involved with one’s ability to see, providing us evidence of his overall curiosity of the human condition.

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da Vinci – Self Portrait, 1517-18

The portrait to the left is described by the museum as being a self-portrait of the master himself. Though an obviously brilliant work with its economy of lines, etc., it does evoke a sense of wonder as to whether he could have achieved such details from himself, given the deplorable state of mirror technology at that time. It is also very possible that it is either his idealistic image of himself or perhaps more likely of a philosopher of old. In either case it has become our accepted representation of the master who has earned the right to be so represented by his enormous collection of works and detailed analysis of everything he had undertaken.

Poetry and Literary Works

Though actually not known for it, Leonardo did some writing. The museum has several examples of his poetry on display.

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Autographed Sonnet with Self Portrait while Frescoing the Ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, 1508-12

The most notable of which is the self-portrait above. The sonnet describes Leonardo‘s “Beard in the Sky” position while painting the Sistine Chapel.

Flight and More Familiar Works

Mechanics seemed to have been one of Leonardo‘s passions. Most of use are somewhat acquainted with his works on the subjects. Even the Wright Brothers read his works on the subjects as an introduction to flight mechanics.

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da Vinci – Codex Atlanticus, 1493-94

In the above codex Leonardo explored the mechanics and structure of the bird wing. He was very interested in how this could be expressed mechanically with the use of wood and rope. The above design is also articulated in a model which hangs very near the above sketch.

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da Vinci – Codex on the Flight of Birds, 1505

Finally his Codex on the Flight of Birds goes into great detail. There are some eighteen or so pages of documentation around this subject for which he had hope to pull together into a book on the subject, but never completed it.

Conclusion

An excellent primer on Leonardo‘s studies, as well as his excellent ability for detailing with pen and ink. There is also a short video on how the writing instruments and inks were developed in that time period which we found very informative.

Though a bit expensive, if you are at all curious and can afford it we think it worth the time and expense.

Milan – Tristan’s Last Vacation Stop

With Tristan departing for the States again on May 18th we all decided a short visit to Milan was in order.

Our two metro tickets to Duomo

After leaving Turin midday we arrived and checked in at the Just Hotel in Milan, very close to the train station so it would be easy on Saturday to get to the airport at Malpensa.

The Duomo

The Duomo, or Dome, in Milan undergoing major renovations and cleaning

Early today we awoke, had a quick breakfast and headed to the Duomo.

The Rooftop

Patti purchased tickets for us to see all that can been seen at the Duomo, including an elevator express trip to the roof.

Tristan and Patti on the rooftop of the Duomo

Though there was construction, even here there was plenty to see. It is amazing how much detail and sculpture the architects, builders and clergy put into parts of this dome that would not normally be seen by anyone.

Some forgotten cardinal or bishop hoisted by cherubs before a rarely used rooftop doorway

The architecture here, dictated by the physics of the day, is indeed impressive.

A forest of buttresses, piers and finials supporting Duomo’s massive inside

And another perspective.

Ornamental semi-flying buttresses

The roof of the Duomo is for sure decorative. Probably in an attempt to add some counterweight to the expansive and beautiful interior.

The Duomo’s Interior

Duomo’s huge nave, looking toward the choir and apse

The windows are traditional, depicting scenes from the Bible as a pedagical device for those who could neither read nor write.

The amazing stained glass windows in Duomo’s apse

And…

The amazing stained glass windows in Duomo’s apse from a distance

Duomo’s Archeological Museum

There is also an archeological museum below the dome. It is an on-going dig, after supporting the massive cathedral above using modern technology, which can be seen in some of the photographs.

Mosaics from Basilica di Sant Tecla

There were some impressive mosaic tile floors uncover from former churches that stood here once.

Tombs below the Duomo

There are also the obligatory tombs of former bishops, priests or rich benefactors littering the grounds.

Milan surrounding the Duomo

There are a few things to experience and see around the Duomo, including the old, simple yet very functional street cars or trams. I never get tired of their usefulness and simplicity as a convenience; sad there are not more of them in the States as they bring life to a city.

Old number 19 working its route

Of course there are always the overly expensive and necessary stores to see in the Galleria; the original glass enclosed mall.

The Galleria

Having exhausted ourselves and in need of some refreshment, Tristan recommended visiting Starbuck’s very large roastery.

Starbuck’s Roastery in Milan

And finally a departing shot of the Milanese Underground and back to our hotel for a rest before dinner.

The M3 line

Heidelberg – Cloudy And Rainy

After a beautiful evening in Heidelberg, Zeus decided it was time to change the weather on us.

Heidelberg in the evening

Hence, when we woke up that morning, we were greeted by a driving rain. Nothing like the downpours we would get in North Carolina, but a steady, bone-chilling, 48 degree shower on our vacation (we’re calling it that now, not to feel too much like retirees.) That’s not too bad, the last time I visited, it was in the 20s and snowing!

Hans Thoma Platz the stop closest to our Gasthof

After our hotel hostess provided breakfast it was off to the Altstadt and the Heidelberg Castle.

The Altstadt

The Altstadt of Heidelberg is now essentially an outside mall, commercialized with all the latest trendy stores from all over the world. Its nothing the way I remember it from years ago.

The beginning of the Hauptstrasse, Heidelberg

Some of the restaurants look the same but there are many new coffee shops, cafes and contemporary stores that fill the Hauptstrasse. It begins with the Kaufhaus right after exiting Bismarkplatz.

Along the Hauptstrasse

And after walking over a kilometer or so, ends with a church or two or three and the castle.

The Heidelberg Castle

The Heidelberger Schloss, or castle, sits atop the hill overlooking the city.

Heidelberger Schloss atop hill

From the Hauptstrasse it is a formidable structure. There are two ways to visit the castle. One may walk the serpentine street that has a number of switch-backs.

Its raining and I’m cold, two tickets for the train please!

Or one can pay the €8.00 fee to ride the funicular train up the hill which is better choice when it’s raining out, plus admission to the castle is included.

The castle looking towards the pharmacy museum

The castle contains the usual large room for the storage of goods in case the town was attacked. It also houses a pharmacy museum and the largest wooden wine cask in the world, able to hold 58,000 gallons of wine.

The largest wine cask in the world

The cask was used back in the day when the town produced its own wine label.

The smaller cask holding 300 liters of wine

Recently, an effort was started by a local vitner, Jörg Clauer, to restart the production of a Heidelberg labeled wine using the smaller cask that is shown in the ante chamber to the largest one. In it, they have stored 300 liters of Pinot Noir, reviving the wine making tradition here.

Heidelberg Overlook

From the castle one gets a great view of Heidelberg and its environs.

Heidelberg looking west

To the west and north looking toward Weststadt and Bergheim.

The old Heidelberg bridge

Then the old Heidelberg bridge and the last part of the Altstadt.

Heidelberg is still a beautiful little city, full of shopping and some interesting things to see. Though I was a bit disappointed in some of the old shops that are missing, I still think it is worth a look, especially for those who have not experienced its charm yet.

Weinwirtschaft Alt Hendesse

Our second and last night here we ate at the Alt Hendesse restaurant which ostensibly is a Weinwirtschaft.

Weinwirtschaft Alt Hendesse

It could be the establishment used to be part of some wine production at some point in their history. But there is no evidence of any label or production by them on their current wine list.

Patti and Ericka waiting for their Aubergine dishes

However, the food was very good and satisfying. I can only say that for the short time we were there between 8 and 9 PM they were turning people away constantly. They actually somehow made room for us shuffling some locals around to other tables.

4.7 Stars ?

Munich – A Bavarian Treat

Since I have been here several times, I asked my family what their first impressions of Munich were and their response was, they thought it to be a very livable city. Clean and vibrant with a very cosmopolitan population.

From the Innere Ludwigsbrücke (bridge)

For one, the Isar runs directly through it adding to its luxuriant greenspaces and parks. So it is a very green city.

From Ludwigsbrücke am Gastieg (Rosenheimer Strasse)

The city itself, like many other European cities of this age, is comprised of an older inner (alt stadt) city, surrounded by the more contemporary version of itself. Our hotel, the Hilton München City on Rosenheimer Strasse, is situated in the perfect spot just outside the old city to enjoy the use of its mass transportation system (which is extensive by the way) and of course walking.

Isartor

Walking over the Ludwigsbrücke from our hotel we meet the Isartor, the eastern gate to the old city. It no longer protects the old city from tourists and vagabonds, but once was a stalwart against unwanted invasions.

Neues Rathaus with famous Glöckenspiel

The Altstadt

The city core is comprised of numerous catholic churches, kneipes and bräuthauses, somehow proving the proverb that faith and beer are somehow strongly tied together. In fact everything in Munich is tied to beer.

Glöckenspiel in Marienplatz

The famous Glöckenspiel of the Munich Rathaus still works, but now its on a specific schedule. You must consult the working hours in the front of the Rathaus for specific play times.

The Frauenkirche frontal view

Other points of interest include the famous Frauenkirche with its dual towers and cupolas. The church inside is nothing special, I myself preferred Saint Peter’s from what I could see. Taken for granted that we attended some of the Latin high mass on Easter morning at Saint Peter’s, which may have swayed my opinion a bit.

The cupolas and towers of the Frauenkirche

The cupolas of the Frauenkirche from a different perspective.

Tristan, Patti and Ericka in front of the Theatinerkirche am Odeonsplatz

The Deutsches Museum

We ventured around on foot a bit to discover the two famous hofbräuhauses and the Odeonsplatz. We also took the time to visit a few museums, including the Deutsches Museum, which we highly recommend, especially if you have any kind of mining background. The mining display is extensive.

Tristan investigating mining exhibit equipment

It is also very dark and there are numerous crags and unlit crevasses where anything creepy can hide.

Erick having some fun…

The museum has many other exhibits including naval, airplane and electronics (our personal favorite).

IBM System 360

They even have a System 7501 and System 360 from IBM, as well as a Cray and numerous early PC models.. Two tickets anyone..?

Two Tickets to the Deutsches Museum

So that just about does it for this whirlwind blog entry about Munich.

Our Farewell to Munich

We leave you with a shot of the Marienplatz

Marienplatz

…and Frauenkirche in the evening.

The Frauenkirche

Turin – The Royal Museums

Yesterday, we went to the Royal Museums of Turin. It includes the Royal Palace and its Gardens, the Royal Library and Armory, the Sebaudian Gallery (Dutch & Flemish paintings) the Museum of Antiquities and the Chapel of the Holy Shroud.

Tickets for Three

Cathedral of St. John the Baptist

The Holy Shroud

 

Cathedral of St. John the Baptist

Royal Palace of the Savoys

The Entrance

Photos of the Royal Palace. Some rooms were quite gaudy.

Views from the Royal Palace

 

Chapel of the Holy Shroud

A fire destroyed part of the Chapel in 1997 and is undergoing restoration

Tristan in the Museum of Antiquities

We do enjoy museums! Can you tell?

Turin – Third Time’s a Charm

When Erick and I visited Turin last Fall, we decided to visit the Mole Antonelliana; home of the Cinema Museum with sweeping views of the city. Unfortunately, while the museum was open, the elevator to enjoy the views was closed due to renovations. Instead, we decided we would visit, when we moved here.

Last Tuesday we attempted to return, but again we failed. The museum is closed on Tuesdays.

On Thursday, we were finally able to see the Cinema Museum and although it was a hazy day, the view of the Alps was “postcard-like”. The museum’s construction began in 1863 and was originally meant to be a synagogue. The exhibits are organized on various levels starting with the Archeology of Cinema, to digital technology.

We ended our day with lunch at Pizzeria da Michele.

Our tickets for the museum/lift

The elevator to the top. We were sardines in a can. Views were visible from all 4 sides, so if you don’t like heights, would not recommend.

View at the top

Multi-level Exhibits

Video with “lights”. I will have to post on Facebook for the video to work.

Does anyone know what movie this creature is from?

“Aliens”

Pizza with capers

Hazelnut meringue dessert

Turin – More photos of Palazzo Madama

Palazzo Madama Museum

Madonna and Child – Circa 1330

Glass Chandelier from Venice (Murano)

Each cabinet contains not only wares from different regions of Italy, but also other countries, including Austria and France.

Beautiful ceilings

Ceramic bowl

It was a cloudy day, but the views at the top of the museum were still enjoyable.

Turin – Madama Palace and Museum

Interested by some literature, we happen to read in our apartment, we decided to visit the Madama Palace on via Giuseppi Garibaldi at piazza Castello. The entrance fee was 10€, 8€ for students, which included a map.

Fine wood engraving

Some of the amazing historical items I found in there were the wood carvings. The one example I found the most compelling, was the depiction of Christ’s birth in the manger as shown above. There were other similar carvings and most were done on choir screens or benches. Most of these were reliefs, as well as all of the pictures and stained glass, were, or course, for the benefit of the illiterate part of the congregation.

Erick in front of decorative church panel

The museum is filled with many other artifacts and itself is built on an ancient castle or other ruins from the Roman times, as is evident within one of the stairwells. Ascending to the parapet on the roof provides an excellent view of the city.

The Mole to the north of the museum

Turin – The Egyptian Museum

Saturday, prior to my son Tristan and I knowing that we had contracted the flu, we all walked into the center of town to visit the Egyptian museum. It contains the largest collection of artifacts, outside of Egypt. We had thought that Italy was still allowing free admissions to museums from the 5th – 9th. However, this was not the case. In fact, we could not even get a student discount since those are only offered on Thursdays – oh well. The one thing we did get unexpectedly were headsets, which unfortunately ended up to be useless technological throwbacks to the early 1990’s. Undeterred, we soldiered on determined to make the best of it, even among an afternoon throng.

The amazing pieces were the statues and sarcophagi which were surrounded by glass so you can see all sides.

Below is Patti in front of a 4200 year old Sphinx, like the one near the pyramids of Giza.

And finally the sarcophagi we mentioned before.

Well after an hour, which we really enjoyed (our son, Tristan is an ancient history buff), we took our leave to consume some of Italy’s really fine coffee.

Next time we hope to post about something a little less macabre.