Tag: opinion

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Turin – Piolas – Caffe Vini Emilio Ranzini

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The Menu

Occasionally, you come across a restaurant, caffe or bar which just hits all the buttons correctly. For us this occurred last evening at Caffe Vini Emilio Ranzini.

I don’t want to call this place a hole in the wall, but that is the first impression a foreigner, an American, will have. All in all it might measure twenty by thirty feet inside, sixty or seventy square feet maximum, including the bar. But, the food is unmatched by other restaurants much larger in size. So, either there is a huge kitchen somewhere we could not see, or the chef is a magician.

To be honest, there is an outdoor patio in the back where they are able to seat perhaps another forty or so guests. We were fortunate this evening to get our own table inside next to the door and near the bar, to watch all the comings and goings (people watching is an acceptable hobby in Italy.)

A Piola Menu

As can be seen by the rather large display above, the menu is displayed on the wall. This is typical for a Piola, a Torinese-style restaurant that has daily offers of food at reasonable prices (or in Italian, a termine piemontese dal significato di osteria, bar).

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Tagliere of Salumi and Formaggi, along with other great stuff to eat

For our dinner we selected the Salami and Cheese plate for two. To accompany this, we also ordered the vinegar roasted zucchini squash, roasted peppers and Polpette di Carni (or hot meatballs).

The meat tasted as one would expect, a nice selection of salami and prosciutto. The cheese selection was very good, especially the blue cheese which reminded us of a Stilton and the other whiter cheese above which reminded us of a sharp white cheddar.

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Nizza, San Luigi, 2015 – DOCG

The meatballs and zucchini were to die for. It was actually difficult to tell what kind of meat, were in the meatballs (and frankly we were afraid to ask since horsemeat is an acceptable meat in Italy.) But, the spices and the particular way in which they were cooked (it looked like deep-frying but not sure it was), was very tasty. The squash on the other hand was served cold, but the vinegar gave it such a pop in your mouth, you wanted to order more.

The Wine

This specific place also sports a rather nice wine list. Since we were looking for something red to pair with the meatballs, salami and cheese, we went with a nice Barbera. The Nizza from San Luigi, 2015 was an excellent choice. Dry and aromatic with fruity overtones of cherry, it combined very nicely with our meal. A wine which is sure on my short list of choices when I visit my local wine store in the future!

In Conclusion

Though it was our evening out to celebrate our 37th anniversary, we had expected to spend a bit more. So, when the bill came and it came to a total of 37€, we were delightfully surprised. Not only because we thought it so inexpensive, but that we got such good food and atmosphere at such an affordable and reasonable price.

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The bar at Caffe Vivi Emilio Ranzini

We are sure the menu changes often, weekly at least, perhaps even daily. Our plans are to go back for lunch. One word of caution. They do have Summer hours (9:30-2:30, 5:30-8:30) starting in June, which are reduced from the hours posted on Google. However, we would recommend this place for either lunch or dinner and it’s just two blocks off of via Garibaldi!

5.0 stars! 

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Turin – Application Day for Erick’s Permesso

The Questura di Torino, is let’s say not the most inviting place, for it would remind one, for those old enough to remember, of their local DMV (Department of Motor Vehicles) back in the 1960’s. Having been here only once to obtain an appointment, which by the way took two hours, I re-entered with some trepidation.

This week, on May 15th, we returned for my Permesso di Soggiorno (permission of stay.) After reading all the print-outs that were taped on all the walls, my wife and I decided to take a more direct approach and just go inside, behind the green barred protected area, and stand in line, directly in front of BLUE window number 1, as indicated on my appointment sheet.

WRONG!

Within five minutes we were yelled at and sent back, along with almost everyone else loitering there, out to the waiting area. It turned out, the scoreboard there read out one’s number along with the applicable window to go to when called, nonetheless I remained confident.

My calm, cool exterior – They don’t scare me, his show was for the other illegal immigrants, not me

As my appointment time drew closer, I started to get more anxious as to whether or not we actually understood what they actually told us. Do I have all the correct documents?

Hmm, what if they find something irregular, I could be arrested, nah.., they would never do that. I’m American

Finally, three minutes after three o’clock in the afternoon, with them just returning from lunch ????? , my number was called.

That’s my number, window six, I will probably be alone tonight in a four foot concrete cell eating croissants and drinking water

Actually after the lady remonstrated a couple for being in front of us, since their number was NOT called, we reluctantly approached the window. We didn’t have everything she wanted, but she spoke English very well and we were able to explain or provide proof to all her questions and satisfaction. After my finger printing we left with my temporary permesso and it all took less than an hour..! In Italy no less, go figure.

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Turin – Europe as a Mind-cleanse

Given all that goes on in America, the day to day political bullshit, Libertarianism ad nauseum, paranoia, narcisistic behaviors, etc. I have found our trip to Europe and Italy in particular more than liberating, I find it refreshing. I would like to use the term mind-cleansing, the act of ridding one’s mind of all past day to day perceptions and cares.

Yes, for sure, the European Union have their own minority stupid asses that hold sway over the majority, with Brexit and other less public referendums. But at least the Brexit has the EU fixated for a change. That they even gave the Brits a relaxed scheduled to leave actually astounds me. As any American would say, if you want to go, please go already. My own opinion is mixed on the matter, but the short of it is, the EU ought to let them fall, and fall hard if they want to. Its best for children to learn from a bloody nose and by extension countries as well.

This brings me to interesting sidewalk art I happen to find. In an effort to clear my mind’, I have allowed my once astral senses to turn earthwards, streetwards to be specific, instead of to the sky and the cosmos they so dearly love. Turin at least seems to be filled with an assortment of strange, if not 12 monkeys, related kind of street art.

The above was found low on a building’s foundation of a common thoroughfare. Of course I am not certain of the objective of the depiction, but imagine it has something to do with turning off your TV. The caption or title seems to read “skene”, which I don’t think has anything to do with the female anatomy, but rather the name of a group publishing their rhetoric.

The next image above appears to perhaps have something to do with the zombie apocalypse. Obviously a young woman in thin bandages stopping us from entering or proceding further. To what end? Or perhaps something totally different. Since I am not part of the society here, merely an interloper, I cannot know for sure. But it appears to be a sincere rejection of something.

Lastly, something I can appreciate. It took great pains during my tenure NOT to become an authority. For some, a cop out for sure, for others an understandable, even allergic reaction to becoming that which one detests. Apparently, our Italian brethren have the same mistrust of the Yale graduates and American elite we do. Once I read this my mind no longer felt as clean as I thought it should. Geography in the 21st century is apparently no longer the cognitive antiseptic it once was.

For a proper mind-cleanse, some far off mountain range, or perhaps even Antartica is more appropriate. I at least, have found the streets of Turin invigorating and its street art interesting but not enough of a distraction for a proper mind-cleanse.