Zagreb, the etymology of the name even today is disputed, is actually composed of two historic city centers, Kaptol to the east and Gradec to the west. Today, it consists of an even larger metropolitan area, where more than a million people live.
Zagreb
On a normal day, the historic parts of the city are filled with tourists and sightseers, however the weekends can be quieter. We arrived on a Sunday and found it strangely quiescent.
Rainy Day in Zagreb – Spomenik Stjepanu Radiću Statue – Zagreb, Croatia
Marketplace – Zagreb, Croatia
The Old Part of Town – Gradec – Zagreb, Croatia
Kaptol was the first to be formally recognized as pertaining to Zagreb, followed by Gradec some time later through King Bela IV edict of the Golden Bull. They both sit upon their corresponding hills and lay alongside one another, being separated somewhat by a slight depression where the Тkalčićeva ulica street runs.
Тkalčićeva ulica Street – Zagreb, Croatia
Тkalčićeva ulica Street – Zagreb, Croatia
Тkalčićeva ulica Street – Zagreb, Croatia
Getting There
Coming from Turin we flew with Air Dolomiti to Munich and then later on to Zagreb, two short one hour flights which took us about five hours to complete with layover.
Arriving in Munich – Munich, Germany
Flying over Croatia – Croatia
Landing – Zagreb, Croatia
City in the distance – Zagreb, Croatia
The Zagrab airport is small, perhaps smaller than most would expect. It took us approximately an hour to get our luggage, once we had left the plane. So do not expect the speedy luggage service you may enjoy elsewhere, here, things definitely move slower. In such cases, it might be good to have air-tags, just to keep an eye on where your luggage is, before getting alarmed. We got them as a gift and they really came in handy.
Airport Baggage Claim – Zagreb, Croatia
Of course you can also come by car, but from what we can see, parking is a problem and quite expensive. Train, is also an option, though we ruled it out due to scheduling issues and other considerations.
Train Station – Zagreb, Croatia
Train Station – Zagreb, Croatia
Lower Zagreb
We stayed in Lower Zagreb very close to Kaptol and the main square. From here we were able to visit most parts of the old city within a ten to fifteen minute walk.
Manda Hotel – Zagreb, Croatia
Zrinjevac Park
Actually many parks in tandem and tied together by several buildings and monuments. It is actually a nice place to take a stroll and enjoy the salubrious spring weather.
Patti – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia
Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia
Science Musuem – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia
Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia
Strossmayer Stature – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia
Art Pavilion – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia
King Tomislav Monument – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia
King Tomislav Monument – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia
Gradec
To the west of Kaptol and across small depression represented by Pavla Radica, where you will find many bars, cafes and some restaurants, is Gradec, also referred to as Grič.
Opatovina Park – Zagreb, Croatia
Opatovina Park – Zagreb, Croatia
Opatovina Park – Zagreb, Croatia
The Stone Gate
One of the entrances to Gradec is via the Stone Gate. It is adorned by a statue of Saint George before you get there and actually contains a small chapel.
Pavla Radica Street – Zagreb, Croatia
Saint George Statue – Pavla Radica Street – Zagreb, Croatia
Saint George Statue and Stone Gate – Pavla Radica Street – Zagreb, Croatia
Stone Gate – Zagreb, Croatia
Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary – Zagreb, Croatia
Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary – Zagreb, Croatia
Saint Mark’s Church
The most prominent structure here is Saint Mark’s Church. Noted for its polychrome roof tiles depicting the coats of arms of Croatia and Zagreb, it is a beautiful to see. Again, like other structures in the area, it too was damaged by the earthquake and was still undergoing renovations at the time of our visit. Therefore, we were unable to go inside or even get up close to its facade.
Church of Saint Mark – Zagreb, Croatia
Observation Tower
The Observation Tower, or Lotrščak Tower, can be found near Saint Mark’s Church in Gradec. It is right next to the Furnicular station to Lower Zagreb and can be ascended for a modest fee. We chose not to, since the weather was terrible and it was raining and overcast.
Lotrscak Tower – Zagreb, Croatia
Overview of Lower City and Furnicular – Zagreb, Croatia
Overview of Lower City and Furnicular – Zagreb, Croatia
Tunel Grič
Built during World War II as a bomb shelter, the Tunel Grič, or Gric Tunnel is commonly used as a pedestrian path now, even though several sections of it are in disrepair and no longer used. The main section spans about a quarter of a mile an connects western side of Gradec with the eastern side on Pavla Radica street.
Entrance to Gric Tunnel – Strossmayer Park – Zagreb, Croatia
Gric Tunnel – Zagreb, Croatia
Gric Tunnel – Zagreb, Croatia
Gric Tunnel – Zagreb, Croatia
Kaptol
Even today it appears that most of the real estate here is consigned to the Roman Catholic clergy in one form or another. It is here where you will find the Cathedral of Zagreb, the seat of arch bishop.
Monument to Kumica Barica – Zagreb, Croatia
Dome of the Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary – Zagreb, Croatia
Cafes and Bars – Zagreb, Croatia
Typical Side Street – Zagreb, Croatia
Walking in Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia
Old Building – Zagreb, Croatia
Walking the Kaptol street is very relaxing. All of Zagreb is rather well cared for in one repect or another, but this area even more so with its beautiful buildings and well maintained park, the Ribnjak Park.
Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia
Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia
Small Catholic Chapel – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia
Ribnjak Park – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia
Zagreb Cathedral
An enormous and the most prominent building in Kaptol is the Zagreb Cathedral. It is the second tallest building in Croatia and is surrounded by the Kaptol Fortress. Unfortunately at this writing, it was undergoing heavy reconstruction after the 2020 Earthquake., where most of its facade and interior are shrouded in construction scaffolding and screens.
Coming up to the Cathedral – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia
Zagreb Cathedral – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia
The southern spire had snapped off during the quake and crashed onto one of the adjacent buildings. The northern spire was later removed because it was leaning and can now be seen alongside the cathedral, waiting for its eventual return.
Bells – Zagreb Cathedral – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia
Nave – Zagreb Cathedral – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia
Restaurants
Gostionica Ficlek
The restaurant Gostionica Ficlek is a good place to enjoy the gastronomy of Croatia and Zagreb. It has a fine collection of tasty treats on its menu that can be tried for a more than reasonable price. The traditional chicken soup tastes like a typical chicken soup, until you notice the dumplings, which just puts it over the top.
Entrance – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia
Menu – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia
Patti – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia
Ajngmahtec – Traditional Chicken Soup with Dumplings – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia
Zagrebački odreyak – Breaded Pork stuffed with Ham and Cheese, Potato Salad – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia
Cruffin with Vanilla Creme and Brioche with Almonds – Korica Cafe – Zagreb, Croatia
Patti’s Turkey with mlinci – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia
Heritage Street Food
For lunch, Patti selected a tiny establishment on Petrinjska street, known as Heritage Street Food. Their concentration is on Paninis and Focaccia style sandwiches, which when combined with other delectable sides, create a truly enjoyable and tasty little adventure for your palate.
Entrance – Heritage Street Food Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia
Bread with spicy olive oil – Heritage Street Food Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia
Istrian Pearl Sandwich – Heritage Street Food Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia
House Sauvignon Blanc with Gligora Cheese platter with Walnuts, Fig Jam and Figs – Heritage Street Food Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia
Puslek Honey Herbal Liqueur – Heritage Street Food Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia
Caffe & Bar Jupi
The day that we left Zagreb we visited a small cafe for breakfast called Caffe & Bar Jupi. Patti ordered the pancakes with fruit and I had the scrambled eggs. Both were delicious and hit the spot on a busy and somewhat chilly morning.
Patti – Cafe and Bar Jupi – Zagreb, Croatia
Scrambled eggs, Hüttenkäse and Cucumber salad – Cafe and Bar Jupi – Zagreb, Croatia
Pancakes with Berries – Cafe and Bar Jupi – Zagreb, Croatia
If anyone travels all the way down to the very tip of Italy they will discover Reggio Calabria, a Calabrian city with all the classic touches of Southern Italy. Offshore, you will see the ever present Mount Etna smoking in the background.
Mount Aetna – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Getting There And Back
To get there we took TrennItalia’s Calabrian Regional train service from Tropea. Approximately a two hour train ride that eventually hugs the coast and offers a preview of the Italian island of Sicily.
Our First View of Sicily – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy
Messina Ferry – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy
Coming Into Reggio Calabria – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy
To get back we used Reggio Calabria’s airport, where RyanAir offers direct service to Turin’s Caselle Airport. Another trip just short of two hours which also hugs the coast of Italy and also offers views of Sardinia and other prominent points of interest from the air.
Reggio Calabria Airport – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Reggio Calabria
The official name for the city is Reggio Calabria, but it is also known by its traditional names of Reggio di Calabria and just plain Reggio. The city was almost completely destroyed by an earthquake in the beginning of the last century and its more hopefully robust version has new amenities the former city lacked.
Boardwalk with Large Banyan Trees – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Large Banyan Trees – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Corso Garibaldi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Corso Garibaldi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Piazza d’Italia – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Piazza d’Italia – Reggio Calabria, Italy
If you love food, visit the shops along Corso Garibaldi. Many have interesting and local foods that you can bring home with you to enjoy, while you reminisce about your time in Calabria.
Calabrian Volcanic Spread – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Just up from our hotel and on the transformed via Giudecca street, is the eponymous stairway.
Giudecca Stairway – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Giudecca Stairway – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Giudecca Stairway – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Torrine Hotel
On the edge of the older and more vibrant part of the city, the Torrine Hotel is about four blocks from the waterfront. This is just as well, since it provides a quieter place to stay, with the exception being rush hour; it is located on a busy one-way thoroughfare through the city that buses frequent. Our room came with breakfast, a mixture of continental with some warm food thrown in.
Breakfast – Hotel Torrione – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Lungomare
The city has an extensive waterfront and a beautiful Lungomare to go with it. Near the end of it, in the urban park, you will find a nice long sign with the city’s name where you can take memorable photographs.
Boardwalk – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Boardwalk – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Beach – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Looking North – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Patti by City Sign – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Erick by City Sign – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
There are several points of interest along the boardwalk and a leisurely stroll along it will eventually bring you to all of them.
Abandoned Boats – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Wave Science Experiment – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Unknown Statue – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Somewhere near the end, down by the Roman Baths, Patti found the Big Bench. Apparently just installed, since it had no placename on it yet.
Patti finds the Big Bench – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Monumento Della Vittoria
From our hotel on Via Giula, almost directly down the street and on the waterfront and Lungomare, is the Monumento della Vittoria. It is a monument erected for Italy’s World War I victory and Victor Emmanuele III, which also has replica of the Statue of Athena Promachos inside it.
Monumento della Vittoria – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Monumento della Vittoria – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Monumento della Vittoria – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Monumento della Vittoria – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Monumento della Vittoria – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Arena del Stretto – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Arena del Stretto – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Roman Baths
Along the Lungomare is a site of old Roman baths from antiquity.
Roman Baths Site – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo
A large cathedral in the Piazza Duomo is the Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo. It was partially destroyed in the 1908 earthquake and rebuilt with a fusion of Romanesque and Gothic styles.
Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Bronze Doors – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Aisle – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Clerestory by Entry – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Clerestory by Entry – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
The most interesting interior element of the cathedral is its ceiling. A timbered edifice that is remarqued and painted in a most interesting style, including pagan elements which appear to be handpainted.
Nave – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Nave’s Ceiling – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Crossing – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Urn – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Altar and Apse – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Organ in Transept – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Side Chapel – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Organ in Transept – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Castello Aragonese
The Castle Aragonese no longer functions as a castle and has been renovated into something more useful, an art museum. Here for a small fee you are able to enjoy two galleries, one in each tower.
Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Tickets For Two – Entry to Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
North Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Patti on South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
North Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
North Tower Gallery
During our visit this gallery had an exhibit of modern paintings, most of which bright colors were used in an almost three dimensional approach.
Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
South Tower Gallery
While we were visiting this tower housed a collection of art known as Voci senza Volto, or Voices without a Face. An effective and provocitive collection of art, which appears part surreal and part dystopian and gets the viewer to think about signs of struggle, longing and hardship. This was the high point of the trip for me.
South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Being Neutral Serves No One – Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Villas And Palazzos
There are a few villas and palazzos of import in the city.
Villa Genoese Zerbi
A beautiful Venetian Art Nouveau style building on the Corso Emanuele is the villa of Genoese Zerbi. The original was destroyed in the great quake, but it was completely restored and now is one of the main charms of the city.
Villa Genoese Zerbi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Villa Genoese Zerbi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Villa Genoese Zerbi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Villa Genoese Zerbi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Palazzos Spinelli and Giuffrè
These two palazzos are side by side on the Corso Emanuele by the waterfront. Both appear to need some work. Palazzo Spinelli offers a great example of Calabrian architecture and Art Nouveau, or the liberty style.
Palazzo Spinelli – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Palazzo Giuffrè on the other hand offers a more mundane example, and is reminiscent of other buildings you will find in other large Italian cities.
Palazzo Giuffri – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Restaurants
Drogheria Culinaria
Using its former name for the grocery store the family used to own, it now serves food and drinks. It has a decent wine list, with several good varietals by the glass.
Entrance – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Inside – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
The food is also pretty good and you will definitely be able to find something to slake your appetite at this establishment.
Meatballs, Bread with Hot ‘Nduja and Wine – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Pat’s Spaghettone and Erick’s Tagliotella, both with Pork Ragú sauce – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante
One of the restaurants in the area that is highly recommended for local Calabrian dishes is the Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante. Located on via Reggio Campi and via II Dezembre, this small little restaurants attacts all the locals, so have your reservation in hand before leaving your hotel or place of stay.
Entrance – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Old Citroen – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Everything we tried had that home cooking taste without any loss to attention to detail. The Stufato is highly recommended and will melt in your mouth.
Menu – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Stufato di Maialino a bassa Temperatura with Coleslaw – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Cavatelli al Sugo di Capra – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Stufato di Maialino a bassa Temperatura – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
While we were there a local class was having their end of year party, so noise levels were through the roof. However, it was still enjoyable, especially watching the children eating all that food. Made me remember how hungry I used to be as a school kid.
End of Year Lunch for Children – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Fennel Aperativo with Expresso – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Tartufo – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
On our second and final day to the Amalfi Coast, we were fortunate enough to enjoy a lemon experience near Tramonti. After our tour and lunch, we visited the other smaller Amalfi towns of Maiori, Minori and finally Cetara. There is not much to see in any of them and may be skipped. Except perhaps for Minori, which if you are looking for a beach spot along the coast, may offer the best option.
Getting There
On our second day we had arranged for the same tour guide that we had the previous day, Mind The Nap tours[1]If you would like to find them, they are on one of the more frequently used social media applications.. Therefore, we took a hired vehicle from Naples to drive once again over the Anti Appenine mountains, via SP2a, to Tramonti and then to the other coastal towns. Returning along the coastal road via Vietri sul Mare and A3.
Coming Into Tramonti – Tramonti, Italy
Tramonti
The term for this comune and town literaly means, in between the mountains. As we can attest with the photographs that we took, it definitely is in between the mountains. Our guide explained that the mixture of sun, heat and moisture is excellent for growing lemons in the area and some varieties of grapes.
Azienda Agricola Lemon Experience
Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle can provide a lemon experience. It is part guided tour, part lunch, with the most complete explanation of lemons you will probably ever experience.
Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Lemon Experience Tour
Our tour started out where are tour guide dropped us off, near the small abandoned church of Chiesa parrocchiale S. Elia Profeta in Ferriera, Tramonti.
The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy
The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy
The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy
The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy
The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy
Courtyard – The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy
Here our young guide explained in english all the geological, climate and other aspects of lemon growing, while pointing our specific areas between the mountains we were in.
The Surrounding Countryside – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Patti and Ruben – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Poppies – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Alessandro and Patti – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Then he took us to an old man named Ruben, definitely not an Italian name, who explained the horticulture of lemon trees. He showed us how he dries out different kind of seeds from fruit and vegetables that he has raised since he was a child with his father. He is seventy-four years old and does not look a day over sixty.
Ruben Explaining Lemons and Lemon Growing – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Blossoms, Unripe and Ripe Lemons All On The Same Tree – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Ruben Seed Drying, The Old Fashion Way – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Then we had a cute little photograph session, where he had a small chair strategically placed within his one lemon grove.
Patti, Erick and Ruben – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Patti, Erick and Alessandro – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Lemon Experience Luncheon
The luncheon was prepared by Ruben’s wife, Luisa. While she cooked inside their small garden house, Ruben prepared for us a Limoncello Spritz for each of us. It was delicious, as well as all the food that was served.
Ruben Making Limoncello Spritz – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Once we started drinking that, which was made using his own Limoncello, the food started coming out. First the appetizers, then more plentiful food and last a portion of Lasagna.
Real Baked Italian Lasagna With Pancetta – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Dolci – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Patti and Erick Enjoying Lunch – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Le Formichelle Limoncello – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Luisa And Pasqual In The Kitchen – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Their Brick Oven – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Maiori
The town of Maiori literally means “major”, after the river which now flows under the Corso Reginna, the river Reghinna Maiori. It has over the years been abbreviated to just Maiori. First founded by the Etruscans, it was later conquered by the Romans, like the rest of Italy.
Saint Mary of the Sea – Maiori, Italy
Town From Beachside – Maiori, Italy
The Beach – Maiori, Italy
The Beach – Maiori, Italy
Corso Reginna – Maiori, Italy
Corso Reginna – Maiori, Italy
Palazzo Mezzacapo
One specific spot to visit would be the Palazzo Mezzacapo, which is situated just off the Corso Reginna in town. It has an very interesting garden with underground vaulted wells.
Palazzo Mezzacapo – Maiori, Italy
Palazzo Mezzacapo – Maiori, Italy
Palazzo Mezzacapo – Maiori, Italy
Palazzo Mezzacapo – Gardens – Maiori, Italy
Palazzo Mezzacapo – Gardens – Maiori, Italy
Palazzo Mezzacapo – Gardens – Maiori, Italy
Palazzo Mezzacapo – Gardens – Maiori, Italy
Palazzo Mezzacapo – Gardens – Maiori, Italy
Palazzo Mezzacapo – Gardens – Maiori, Italy
Minori
The same is true for the town of Minori, which literally means “minor”, after the river which now flows through it, the Reghinna Minori. The town’s name over the years been abbreviated to just Minori. It’s claim to fame is was used by the Roman high society as a seaside resort. It does have the longest and widest swath of beach on the coast.
Entering Town – Minori, Italy
Main Street SS163 – Minori, Italy
Narrow Alleys – Minori, Italy
Narrow Alleys – Minori, Italy
Typical Small Town Alley – Minori, Italy
Clock Tower – Minori, Italy
Old Millstones – Minori, Italy
Basilica Saint Trofimena – Minori, Italy
Basilica Saint Trofimena – Minori, Italy
Main Shopping Street – Minori, Italy
Lion Fountain – Minori, Italy
Beachfront – Minori, Italy
Beach – Minori, Italy
Beach – Minori, Italy
Patti and Erick – Leaving Minori – Minori, Italy
Beach – Minori, Italy
Cetera
This small town was most likely named after the tuna fishermen that used to live there, as well as the fishmongers, or cetari. Its most important feature is one of the larger Amalfi Coast towers, which dot the coastline and were once used for protection by the Amalfi Federation, or Duchy of Amalfi.
Weather Moving In – Cetara, Italy
Lemon Groves – Cetara, Italy
More Lemon Groves – Cetara, Italy
Covered Lemon Trees – Cetara, Italy
Amalfi Coastline – Cetara, Italy
Amalfi Coast – Cetara, Italy
Coming Into Town – Cetara, Italy
Dome Of Saint Peter – Cetara, Italy
Beach and Tower of Cetara – Cetara, Italy
Beach Restoration – Cetara, Italy
Town Sign – Cetara, Italy
Narrow Walkways – Cetara, Italy
Bronze Doors – Parochial Church of Saint Peter – Cetara, Italy
Entrance – Parochial Church of Saint Peter – Cetara, Italy
In Conclusion
We enjoyed our trip to the Amalfi Coast, overall it was a worthwhile experience. Though I would caution, for me, it did not live up to all of the hype and hyperbole surrounding it as a destination. With some of the towns entertaining cruise ships during the tourist season, it truly could turn into one of the more exasperating places to visit at the wrong time of the calendar year.
Lemon Groves – Tramonti, Italy
Lemon Groves – Tramonti, Italy
The Lemon Groves – The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy
In Between Mountains – The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy
However, we had amazing weather, perfect temperatures and manageable numbers of tourist. Though some places were not available to us at this time, since they open up in the later May and June timeframes for peak season; this was not a problem for us, since we are not big shoppers. In any case, we would commend a tour, or private tour if you can afford it. Removing the need to drive the winding roads, was alone a big plus for us.
Recently we made a decision to return to Naples, if only to use it as a launch point to visit the Amalfi Coast. It was a brief return to enjoy the food and some of the sites we fell in love with four years ago.
Naples
When we travel to Naples, we usually stay in Chiaia. It is an upscale and slightly newer part of Naples that offers a bit more quiet and relief from the tourist activity in the center. It also offers a furnicular to Vomero, which can be used to hop over to the Spanish Quarter, as well as great metro and regional train service.
Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Coming into Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Getting There
We took the FrecciaRossa TrenItalia service from Torino’s Porta Nuova. It takes about six hours and makes about just as many stops along the way. We normally purchase or make sandwiches for such trips, so that we may enjoy the trip without getting overly hungry.
Coming into Naples – Naples, Italy
View from our hotel – Pinto Storey – Chiaia – Naples, Italy
View from our hotel – Pinto Storey – Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Hotel Pinto Storey
Again, we booked the Pinto Storey hotel in Chiaia. A simple, quiet three star hotel occupying one floor by the Piazza Amadeo. It is a very convenient place to stay, because there is the metro and regional train stop in the Piazza, which gives you quick access to the entire city and beyond.
We visited the Spanish Quarter before and see that there is much more activity here now, since we were last here at the end of the pandemic. It is worth a walk through if you have never been here and there seem to be several streets now that have active stores and street vendors on them.
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Centro
The center part of the city has not changed a bit. The central shopping street is just a busy as when we were here last time. A stroll up the christmas street is also a must if you come for a visit.
Obelisk San Domenico – Naples, Italy
Via Vicaria Vecchia – Naples, Italy
Porta d’Alba – Naples, Italy
Piazza Dante – Naples, Italy
Piazza Dante – Naples, Italy
Voremo
One our way back to Chiaia we took the furnicular up to Voremo to get a few photographs of Monte Somma and Vesuvius. They do not cost much and provide an easy means for getting around the more difficult parts of the city.
Tickets for Two – Vomero – Naples, Italy
Furnicular – Vomero – Naples, Italy
Furnicular – Vomero – Naples, Italy
Capri – Vomero – Naples, Italy
Restaurants
We came to Naples having only one restaurant on our list of places we wanted to visit. Any others were based on proximity or a quick search for a place to eat. However, half of the time we were here, we didn’t even eat dinner. Preferring rather to enjoy a large lunch at our day trip destinations instead.
Osteria Pignatelli
A highly rated restaurant, that for all intents and purposes you should call for a reservation, since it tends to get very busy. The interior is appealing and fairly modern. The food is very good as well. Perhaps not the best I have had in Naples, but equal to the Michelin stars they have earned.
Front – Osteria Pignatelli – Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Pasta Genovese – Osteria Pignatelli – Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Portico Pizzeria é Trattoria
On Via dei Tribunali is the Portico Pizzeria é Trattoria. We stopped here for lunch and enjoyed a nice meal at surprisingly reasonable prices for this part of the city. The service was timely and the food was very good, so it is commendable.
Entrance – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy
Patti – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy
Pasta Fresca and Insalata Mista – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy
Mozzarella Spoon – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy
Erick – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy
Pizzeria Staiano Dal 1964
This is a small family own trattoria that specializes in pizza. They also have a menu that changes each day, which contains a nice selection of local specialities.
Built around the ancient remains of an old RomanCastrum, Seligenstadt is one of Germany’s oldest towns. The Romans established a fortified encampment around the second century and maintained it for over a hundred and fifty years. Some time in the mid third century the germanic tribes repeatedly attacked the castrum, forcing the Romans to withdraw across the Rhine river, leaving a pile of rubble behind. Some time afterwards it was known as Obermühlheim and some of the earliest buildings in Seligenstadt are dated to the seventh century and are still standing.
Wendelinuskapelle – Seligenstadt, Germany
A stone’s throw from one of the public parking places is the Wendelinuskapelle. A small chapel honoring Saint Wendel, patron saint of farmers and shepards. Built in the late 1800s it stands on the place of a former Heiligenhäuschen. The Baroque doorway is some 160 years older than the chapel itself and was taken from the west portal of the Seligenstadt Basilica, when it was renovated in 1868. The inside is rather plain and in need of some repair.
Seligenstadt
The three main attractions in this town are the Benedictine Monastery, the Einhard-Basilika and the town’s Marktplatz, or marketplace. One can also find along the Große Maingasse a ferry crossing that crosses the Main river, which separates Hesse from Bavaria.
Mainfähre – Seligenstadt, Germany
Mainfähre – Seligenstadt, Germany
For the most part the town appears to have been saved from the ravages of war. Many of the original timber houses still stand and many have historical markers on them, giving the passer-by a brief history of the structure before them.
Timber Houses – Kleine Rathausgasse 10 – Seligenstadt, Germany
Timber Houses – Kleine Rathausgasse 10 – Seligenstadt, Germany
Timber Houses – Kleine Rathausgasse 5 – Seligenstadt, Germany
Timber Houses – Kleine Rathausgasse 5 – Seligenstadt, Germany
Benedictine Monastery
The monastery, which was established by the Benedictines in 815, houses a museum now and a beautifully maintained garden overlooking the Main river.
Former Benedictine Abbey – History – Seligenstadt, Germany
Former Benedictine Abbey – Entrance – Seligenstadt, Germany
Former Benedictine Abbey – Gardens – Seligenstadt, Germany
Former Benedictine Abbey – Gardens and Church – Seligenstadt, Germany
Einhard-Basilika
Though started in the early ninth century as the Saint Marcellinus and Petrus church, it is currently known as the basilica of Einhard, who was one of Charlemagne’s closest friends and advisors. The facade of the church is neo-roman, though there are several other styles of note, including early gothic.
Einhard-Basilika and former Benedictine Abbey – Entrance – Seligenstadt, Germany
Marktplatz
While we were visiting, a political infomation event was being held in the marketplace, which includes the Rathaus. The area is surrounded by quaint little shops, cafes and government buildings.
Marketplace – Seligenstadt, Germany
Marketplace – Seligenstadt, Germany
Marktplatz – Seligenstadt, Germany
Marktplatz – Seligenstadt, Germany
Restaurants
The weather was cold, cloudy and wet, typical for this time of year. So, when it was time it was essential to find a warm place with good food, so Italian with a pizza oven sounded about right.
Ristorante & Pizzeria 1744
A modern restaurant with a surprisingly large staff was able to accomodate us for lunch. I would expect that during busier times, reservations might be recommended.
The food was excellent. We tried the soups and main pasta dishes, which most people around us seem to favor; so we cannot really speak about the quality of the pizza. They also have traditional italian coffee and other after dinner amenities.
Ristorante & Pizzeria 1744 – Menu – Seligenstadt, Germany
We recently spent two weeks in the Frankfurt area with family. While we were there, we had the good fortune to visit a few new restaurants and a couple of old favorites.
Restaurants In Frankfurt
Lokal Bahnhof
Though we did eat at the Lokal Bahnhof in Frankfurt Süd, Darmstädter Landstraße 14, it was not remarkable enough to take any photographs. A nice enough place to eat for lunch, but aside from a quick bite, nothing special.
Restaurants In Offenbach
Papi Original Italian Ristorante
Located in Offenbach, at Friedrichsring 39, is an excellent place for an evening meal called Papi Original Italian. A favorite of our’s when we are in the area, it had good service and very good food. The menu has very good southern Italian dishes and pizza, so something for everyone.
Papis Original Italian Restaurant – Main Entrance – Offenbach, Germany
Papis Original Italian Restaurant – Pizza – Offenbach, Germany
Papis Original Italian Restaurant – Spaghetti Bolognese – Offenbach, Germany
Papis Original Italian Restaurant – Pasta Bolognese – Offenbach, Germany
Restaurants In Dreieich
Since we were staying in Dreieich, most of the restaurants we visited were in this small, quaint little town.
China Restaurant Hong Kong
The China Restaurant Hong Kong is located on Hauptstraße 8 on the main avenue of town. It has laterns outside, so is easily visible from your car as you drive passed it. However, it is also an easy walk from some of the nearby parking locations.
China Restaurant Hong Kong – Gabi at Main Entrance – Dreieich, Germany
China Restaurant Hong Kong – Inside Decor – Dreieich, Germany
The food is good and they have a good variety on the menu, including Thai and some Vietnamese dishes.
China Restaurant Hong Kong – Mixed Salad, Spring Roll – Dreieich, Germany
China Restaurant Hong Kong – Fried Rice with Vegetables – Dreieich, Germany
China Restaurant Hong Kong – Mixed Salad – Dreieich, Germany
China Restaurant Hong Kong – Pork and Onion over Rice – Dreieich, Germany
Wirsthaus Leopolt
If you are actually looking for German food, look no further than Leopolt’s. They have weekly specials, as well as all the favorites and a variety of other dishes. It is also located in town at Hauptstraße 20.
Wirsthaus Leopolt – Patti and Erick – Dreieich, Germany
On Eisenbahnstraße 38 is the Italian restaurant La Rughetta. A smaller establishment than the others, it has a small, comfortable atmosphere with a family cooking feel. The menu has your typical items on it and the food is very good, though you may have to wait some time before it appears, so bring your patience.
Ristorante La Rughetta – Main Entrance – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante La Rughetta – Inside – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante La Rughetta – Molinari and Coffee Beans – Dreieich, Germany
La Faggio
A newer, more upscale place to eat, that has the appearance of one of the in-places to go is La Faggio, located closer to the train station at Buchschlager Allee 19. Though the eating area is rather spacious, we had the impression there were not enough servers to adequately attend to everyone in a timely manner; so be prepared to wait longer, even to order.
Ristorante La Faggio – Main Dining Area – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante La Faggio – Eggplant Parmigiano – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante La Faggio – Filet Mignon – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante La Faggio – Spaghetti and Tomatoes with Oil and Garlic – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante La Faggio – Bruschetta – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante La Faggio – Mixed Salad – Dreieich, Germany
Al Dente da Pino Ristorante
At the other end of town is Al Dente da Pino Ristorante at Dieselstraße 3. Again, an Italian restaurant with a friendly charm and comfortable atmosphere. The food is very good and the service prompt and friendly. Probably one of the better places in town to eat.
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Entrance – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Artwork – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Photographs – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Photographs – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Minestrone – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Caprese Salad – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Mixed Salad – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Pasta Bolognese – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Pork Piccata – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Braised Pork – Dreieich, Germany
Restaurants In Dreieichenhain
A short stone’s throw away from Dreieich is Dreieichenhain, a medieval little touristy like town with a Roman Wall and Clock Tower Gate. We have been here several times and try a different place to eat, each time we visit. On the day of our visit it was for a small brunch.
Old Roman Wall – Dreieichenhain, Germany
Cafe Cult
A small cafe kind of in the middle of town. Modern, friendly and quick, they have something for most everyone. Including very good coffee and other drinks. The desserts look amazing, though we did not try any. The bagels are bread type bagels, not traditional jewish bagels, but sufficient for bagel sandwiches, which were very tasty.
Cafe Cult – Egg with Avocado on a Bagel – Dreieichenhain, Germany
Though some people choose to ignore basilicas, cathedrals and churches for whatever reason, Lecce is home to more than just a few. It seems that with almost every bend in the street, there is another one waiting to be entered by the faithful or curious. The truth probably is, that most visitors are just that, visitors and tourists.
Lecce’s Basilicas, Cathedrals And Churches
The Basilica di Santa Croce was the first basilica or church we visited, only because that is where we purchased our tickets. Yes, the most significant basilicas and churches in Lecce have a fee, 10€ per person, which gives you two weeks of access to all the places listed on the ticket. As of this writing, the following were accessible[1]please note: the names may appear slightly different or abbreviated on your ticket:
Basilica di Santa Croce
Il Duomo – Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant’Oronzo
Cripta della Cattedrale
Chiesa di San Matteo
Chiesa di Santa Chiara
Basilica di Santa Croce
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano
Biblioteca Bernardini – Convitto Palmieri
Chiostro Antico Seminario – Palazzo del Seminario
Basilica di Santa Croce
The Basilica di Santa Croce is located on via Umberto I and was the first one church on the list that we visited, only because that is where we purchased our tickets.
Basilica di Santa Croce – Outside – Lecce, Italy
Basilica di Santa Croce – Right Aisle – Lecce, Italy
Basilica di Santa Croce – Ceiling – Lecce, Italy
Basilica di Santa Croce – The Crossing and Ceiling – Lecce, Italy
Basilica di Santa Croce – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Basilica di Santa Croce – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Basilica di Santa Croce – Nave and Altar – Lecce, Italy
Basilica di Santa Croce – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Il Duomo – Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant’Oronzo
The Duomo in Lecce is also referred to as the Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant’Oronzo, or the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption and Saint Orontius, or simple the Lecce Cathedral, and is laid out like a proper Latin cathedral.
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – From Piazza Il Duomo – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Bell Tower – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Main Entrance and Facade – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Side Entrance – Lecce, Italy
The impressive nave, crossing and transepts are in the Baroque style and do not resemble other more impressive Gothic Cathedrals you will find in Europe, nonetheless there are things to see!
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Main Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Nave – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Right Aisle – Lecce, Italy
There a multiple radiating chapels, altar and two rather elegant transepts that one should admire for some time.
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Andrew the Apostle (1687), Right Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Charles Borromeo, Right Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Radiating Chapel or Altar, Right Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Giusto (1656), Right Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Our Lady of Sorrows, Right Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – John the Baptist (1682), Left Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Radiating Chapel or Altar, Left Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Side Entrance, Left Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – The martyrdom of Saint Giusto (1674), Left Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Anthony of Padua (also from 1674), Left Side – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Orontius of Lecce (1671), Right Transept Altar – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – The Immaculate Conception (1689), Left Transept Altar – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – The Crucifixion of Jesus and the Blessed Sacrament (1780), Left Transept – Lecce, Italy
The ceiling is also a marvel. Built from wood, it is intricately woven into a grand geometric pattern for anyone to enjoy.
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Apse and Crossing Ceiling – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Nave Ceiling and Organ – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Nave Ceiling by Crossing – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Ceiling – Lecce, Italy
Cripta della Cattedrale
The Cripta della Cattedrale, or the Crypt of the Cathedral, was restored in 2017 to its present condition. However, archaeological activities are still ongoing and work appears in some areas to have only started. The rest of the crypt, with the exception of a few painting, appears rather sterile.
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Patti entering the Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Closed Exit, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Entry into Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Sarcophagus, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Vaulted Ceiling and Altar, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Side Altar, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Side Altar, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Side Altar, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Restored in 2017, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Archaeological Artifacts from the Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Archaeological Site, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Archaeological Site, Crypt – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Matteo
The Chiesa di San Matteo, or Church of Saint Matthew, is small and very ornate and well decorated inside for its size. The marble was unquestionably carved by master craftsmen on top of their game.
Chiesa di San Matteo – Outside or Facade – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Matteo – Outside or Facade – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Matteo – Left Wall along the Nave – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Matteo – Right Wall along the Nave – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Matteo – Ambo or Pulpit – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Matteo – Nave – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Matteo – Side or Radiating Chapel – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara
The Chiesa di Santa Chiara , or Church of Saint Claire, is a beautiful Baroque church in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II in Lecce. It has some marvelous side altars honoring some of the important saints from the area.
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Outside and Facade – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Ceiling – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra
The Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra, or Sacred Art Museum, has a unique collection of religious artifacts of Catholic origins from the area.
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Main Hall – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Sacred Paintings and Art – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Sacred Paintings and Art – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Sacred Paintings and Art – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Sacred Paintings and Art – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Sacred Paintings and Art – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Saint Oronzo – Lecce, Italy
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Other Sacred Works – Lecce, Italy
Other Basilicas, Cathedrals And Churches
There are a number of other cathedrals and churches worth your attention. Most map applications and a good map from a hotel, B&B or rental may have them marked. As of this writing, none of these cathedrals or churches required any entry fee or donation.
Basilica Del Rosario E Di San Giovanni Battista
The Basilica Del Rosario E Di San Giovanni Battista, or the Basilica of the Rosary and of Saint John the Baptist, was under restoration when we visited. The outside appears to be falling the street and they have erected scaffolding to protect the public. Inside, the entire roof trusses under the crossing were under reconstruction. Aside from that, the inside was rather bare and actually looked like a construction site, so aside from the alters which are still in place, there is not must else to see.
Basilica del Rosario e di San Giovanni Battista – Outside and Facade – Lecce, Italy
Basilica del Rosario e di San Giovanni Battista – Inside with bare Cupola, Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia
Located directly across from the Roman amphitheater on via Ernesto Alvino and near the Castello Carlo V di Lecce (Castle Charles of Lecce) , is another excellent choice to visit.
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Outside – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Nave and Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Religious Painting in Foyer – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Intricate Ceiling – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Carving on Wood – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Carving on Wood – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa Del Gesu Del Buon Consiglio
Another church that you may enter for no fee is the Chiesa Del Gesu Del Buon Consiglio which is on the Strada Romana, or the Roman street, referred to today as Via Francesco Rubichi. The ornate altar and backdrop of the Apse is worth a stop. This along with the amazing wooden ceiling, these two things are demand some consideration and adoration.
Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Outside – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – A Side Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Side Altar of Mary with Baby Jesus – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Nave Showing Renovations – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Ceiling – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Provvidenza O Delle Alcantoarine
The Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Provvidenza o Delle Alcantoarine, or the Church of Saint Mary of Providence or the Alcantoarine has a beautiful altar and wonderful Morena Glass chandelier along with a very simple interior.
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Provvidenza o Delle Alcantoarine – Outside – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Provvidenza o Delle Alcantoarine – Nave and Altar – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Porta O Di San Luigi Gonzaga
The Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Porta O Di San Luigi Gonzaga, or the Church of Saint Mary of the Gate or of San Louis Gonzaga is another free church that you can stop in and admire very near to the Porta Napoli. Simple for its layout, its architecture is developed around a dome, rather than the traditional church layout.
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Porta o di San Luigi Gonzaga – Outside – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Porta o di San Luigi Gonzaga – Inside – Lecce, Italy
Chiesa di San Niccolo dei Greci
Unable to enter, we were only able to take a photograph of the facade or outside of the church.
Chiesa di San Niccolo dei Greci – Outside – Lecce, Italy
Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo
The small chapel of Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo is located very near to the Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra, or Sacred Art Museum; in fact, it right at the end of that tour.
Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo – Lecce, Italy
Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo – Altar – Lecce, Italy
The second largest city in Apulia is called Lecce and is located on the Salentine Peninsula of Italy. It is rich in Baroque architecture, most of which is in the form of Lecce limestone and is often referred to as the Florence of the South. It one of the oldest settlements in southern Italy, with activity dating back to neolithic times.
Getting There
From Brindisis, or most other larger towns and cities on the east coast of Mezzogiorno, the FrecciaArgento is perhaps to quickest way to arrive. From Brindisi it is a short twenty three minute ride, a bit longer on the regional trains.
Lecce Train Station – Lecce, Italy
The City
Lecce is a typical ancient city which was at one time circumscribed with a protective wall with three main gates. The streets in the old Città Vecchia, or old history city, are narrow and mostly paved with stones.
Typical city street – Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Castromediano – Lecce, Italy
Narrow carless streets – Lecce, Italy
Old Roman columned wall – Lecce, Italy
The government here must be very careful of the city center, since it appears to have mitigated much of the traffic you would normally find in other similar cities of this size, making pedestrian traffic all that more enjoyable.
Palazzo Lecciso – Lecce, Italy
Interesting balcony supports – Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Castromediano – Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Di Giustizia – Lecce, Italy
Ports, Gates, Columns And Castles
There are numerous ports, gates, columns and obelisks in Lecce. These are spread out all of the city and are well labeled on most maps. The Triumphal Arch, or Porta Napoli, is the largest and one of the three gates to enter the Città Vecchia.
Porta di Napoli – Front – Lecce, Italy
Porta di Napoli – Back – Lecce, Italy
Porta di Napoli – Back – Lecce, Italy
Porta di Napoli – Back – Lecce, Italy
There is also the Porta San Biagio and a smaller one called the Arco di Prato, or Arch of Prato, which is somewhat hidden away within the narrow city streets.
Porta San Biagio – Lecce, Italy
The Arch of Prato – Lecce, Italy
Arch of Prato – Lecce, Italy
The Obelisk of Terra d’Otranto can be seen close to the Porta Napoli and is rather tall. It was erected in 1822 in honor of one of the rulers of the Two Sicilies. On the other side of town one can find the War Memorial for soldiers lost in war.
Porta di Napoli – Obelisco di Terra d’Otranto – Lecce, Italy
War Memorial – Lecce, Italy
In the Piazza Saint Oronzo you will find the Colonna di Sant’Oronzo, or the Column of Saint Oronzo. It is a tall pedestal with Saint Oronzo on top. The column itself was assembled from pieces of the one that fell apart in Brindisi in the mid sixteenth century, its twin can be found near the port of that city.
Column of Saint Oronzo – Lecce, Italy
The Castello de Carlo V, or Castle of Charles V sits on the eastern edge of the historic city and below the Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens. It is a large structure and tours are offered, all of which are guided, so you cannot tour the grounds unaccompanied. A short walk from there you will the public park or gardens, which is always a good stop to rest your feet after a few hours of walking.
Castello Carlo V di Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Castello Carlo V di Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens – Lecce, Italy
Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens – Fountain – Lecce, Italy
Roman Ruins
Lecce has in its old historic city not one, but two Roman amphitheaters. Unfortunately for us, both were being restored while we visited and photography was very difficult in both cases.
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater, 2nd Century – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater, 2nd Century – Lecce, Italy
Where We Stayed
For the second time on this trip we have booked a Bed and Breakfast. I still cannot say I am fan, but there are times when alternatives to hotels may make a better fit. However, we only commit to such alternatives directly and after thorough research.
L’Orangerie d’Epoque
We stayed at a Bed and Breakfast called L’Orangerie d’Epoque on Viale Francesco Lo Re near the Porta San Biagio. A rather large building with a central portico that appears to have one owner.
L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Entryway and Portico – Lecce, Italy
Our room was on the ground floor with its own entrance to the portico. The entryway has a beautiful mosaic tiled floor, reminiscent of ancient Rome or Pompeii.
L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Entrance Mosaic and Door – Lecce, Italy
The room was spacious, with a fireplace and split up into almost four equal parts. There was a large dining area by the entrance that flowed into a living room with several couches.
This small restaurant has good food and wine at fairly reasonable prices. We actually went there late for lunch, around 14:40 and they still took our order and served us.
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
The service was very good and the menu had a decent choice of both local cuisine and other more general Italian items to chose.
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Front of the Building – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Entrance, Cassa and Wines – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Wines – Lecce, Italy
I ordered the Eggplant Polpette in Ragu Sauce with Ricotta Cheese, an Insalata Mista (mixed salad) and the Orecchiette with re-milled Semolina with Scottona Red Ragu and Patti ordered the Ciceri and Tria Pasta and shared my Polpette. All the dishes were very good. The wine was Negroamaro from the region and it was very good, served by the glass. The desserts you can see below and the espresso was also very good, not bitter at all.
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Eggplant Polpette in Ragu Sauce with Ricotta Cheese – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Insalata Mista – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Ciceri and Tria Pasta – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Orecchiette with re-milled Semolina with Scottona Red Ragu – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Salted Pistachio Semifreddo with Chocolate Crunchy, Martucci Spumone Hazelnut Chocolate – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Espresso and Molinari Sambuca – Lecce, Italy
Miro Wine And Lounge
We stopped here for a drink and decided on a quick bite to eat, since we were both getting hungry and it was only a little passed eleven. We were actually surprised they were serving lunch.
Miro Wine and Lounge – Patti outside waiting for soup – Lecce, Italy
Miro Wine and Lounge – Erick outside waiting for soup with a glass of red – Lecce, Italy
While we waited, I ordered a glass of Negroamaro from Puglia, a very nice wine that reminds me of Barbera. They had a nice bean and cereal soup on the menu that Patti and I decided to try and it was magnificent.
Miro Wine and Lounge – Bean and Cereal soup with Croutons – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo
The restaurant Tranquillo is a more modern restaurant with two locations in Lecce, we chose the one located at Piazza Sant’Oronzo. The service and food were very good.
Tranquillo – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Menu – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Inside – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Inside – Lecce, Italy
We dined late again at around 14:30, opting for a larger lunch and skipping dinner. We find this preferrable to eating again late in the evening and going to bed with a full stomach, something that we find does not lend itself to a good night sleep as we get older. I ordered the Apulian Bombette with Cheese on greens with a side order of Potato al Forno and Cicorie (Chickory), and Patti ordered the Cicorie on Pureed Fava Beans.
Tranquillo – Chicory side and Chicory on Pureed Fava Beans – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Potatoes al Forno, Ricetta Bombette with cheese and a glass of red wine – Lecce, Italy
Often referred to as La Città Bianca, or the White City, from certain vantage points, it does appear somewhat like the houses on Santorini island of the Greek Archipelago. It is however difficult getting a good photograph that represents it from a distance, unless you drive a car.
Panoramic view of the Adriatic – Ostuni, Italy
Getting There
A twenty minute train ride from Brindisi Centrale and a five minute bus drive from Ostuni Zona Sisri, is the small ancient city of Ostuni. The trains run at least every hour in both directions and perhaps even more often around rush hour times.
Follow the signs to the bus stop – Ostuni, Italy
Follow the signs to the bus stop – Ostuni, Italy
Fermata, bus stop – Green Times – Ostuni, Italy
Even more importantly, it should be noted that getting back, not all Fermata are active where the bus should stop. Apparently, during the off-season the only one that remains active is the one at via tenente Specchia, where we were left off at the start of our journey. So plan on returning there and not at the one of the other two bus stops sometimes indicated in the city by other information sources.
Sign indicating Fermata closed from 13th January – Ostuni, Italy
The White City
The White City, or the Città Bianca[1]which is actually the Città Vecchia or old city, is located on a mount or hill with a commanding view of the plain below. The newer part of the city stretches out towards the south and is rather residential and nondescript in nature.
Santuario Madonna della Grata – Ostuni, Italy
Adriatic Sea – Ostuni, Italy
While in the main piazza, or Piazza della Libertà, this is a good place to stop for a coffee or drink. Here you will find several things to see, including the Colonna di Sant’Oronzo and the Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi.
Colonna di Sant’Oronzo – Ostuni, Italy
Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi – Entrance – Ostuni, Italy
Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi – Nave – Ostuni, Italy
Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi – Ceiling – Ostuni, Italy
Comune Di Ostuni & Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi – Ostuni, Italy
Skyline – Ostuni, Italy
Ahead, the climb is not that bad, but the city streets and passageways are rather serpentine and have a myriad of steps that go up and down, so bring rested legs. We spent a good part of a day here, we walked and climbed all over the place and traveled just over seven miles.
Steps up to part of the city – Ostuni, Italy
City streets – Ostuni, Italy
Skyline – Ostuni, Italy
Religious motives – Ostuni, Italy
The Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta and Arco Scoppa are located in the same place in the Centro Storico di Ostuni at the top of the hill.
Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta
– Ostuni, Italy
Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta – Nave – Ostuni, Italy
Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta – Ceiling – Ostuni, Italy
Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta – Old Wooden Doors and Old Iron Hinges – Ostuni, Italy
Arco Scoppa – Ostuni, Italy
Arco Scoppa – Ostuni, Italy
While meandering through the streets of Ostuni, we noticed several interesting doorways that had unusual flourishes and ornate features.
Ornate doorways – Ostuni, Italy
Ornate doorways – Ostuni, Italy
Ornate doorways – Ostuni, Italy
Aside from that, there are mostly lazy narrow streets, stairways and white houses in the city. From time to time, you will come across places to eat, but during this time of year, most of them are closed. They most likely open later in the March timeframe, when the tourist activity picks up.
Residential area – Ostuni, Italy
Patti – Ostuni, Italy
Way to the north part of the Citta Vecchio – Ostuni, Italy
The Adriatic – Ostuni, Italy
Stairs, stairs, stairs – Ostuni, Italy
City streets – Ostuni, Italy
Restaurants
Al Cortiletto Vino e Birra Ostuni
The Al Cortiletto Vino e Birra Ostuni restaurant offers typical Italian food with some Pugliese items thrown in, so there is something for everyone. We had met some fellow travelers while on the bus from the Ostuni train station with whom we engaged in conversation during the ride. In order to finish what we had begun, they suggested we meet for lunch and this is the place they picked.
Roland and Amanda – Ostuni, Italy
Patti and I ordered and shared the Bruschetta. Then she ordered a Tuna Salad and I had the Cheese Gnocchi with ragu. Unfortunately, we took no photographs and you will have to build a mental image of what we ate.
When we left, Roland and Amanda were on their way back to Lecce, where we are headed tomorrow and we returned to Brindisi. We traded telephone numbers and promised to stay in touch for a lunch or dinner when there, since they will still be there during our visit later this week into next.
If it is raining out and there is not much else to do, then a trip to Brindisi could be the cure for your rainy day. Though not much to see, nor much to look at, Brindisi does offer a few points of interest. We mainly used it for a short respite during our eighteen day visit to Mezzogiorno.
Getting To Brindisi
From Bari we reserved seats on the FrecciaArgento[1]FrecciaArgento, or TrennItalia’s Silver Arrow service, as opposed to the FrecciaRosso, or Red Arrow service in other areas which only takes a hour. There are other regional offerings, however they usually take longer but are less expensive, so there are options.
Bari Centrale – Waiting for our FrecciaArgento – Bari, Italy
Brindisi Centrale – Brindisi, Italy
Brindisi does have a airport that is serviced by RyanAir. While here we saw several airplanes land and take off during the day and the airport was directly across the water on the other side of the city from our hotel.
Bindisi The City
Brindisi’s Citta Vecchia, or historical center, is a bit elongated but does reach to the bay where the port is located. The Corso Roma is the main avenue for shopping, though it cannot be compared to the one in Bari or other larger towns or cities we have visited along the coast.
Corso Roma – Brindisi, Italy
Corso Roma – Brindisi, Italy
City Market – Brindisi, Italy
Piazza Il Duomo And The Roman Column
The Piazza Il Duomo has the Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista and some other sites to see. The cathedral is rather plain inside, but somewhat impressive from the outside.
Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista – Brindisi, Italy
Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista – Modern Interior – Brindisi, Italy
The Colonne Romane, or Roman Column, was erected in the city to define one of the endpoints of the Appian Way, or the extent of Rome. Others have countered that they were merely erected as a visual aid for mariners to know where the actual port was located. There were two originally, of which only one still exists in all of its glory, the other crumbled in the mid sixteenth century. The crumbled remains of the one were donated to Lecce for their column.
Colonne Romane – Brindisi, Italy
Unesco site – Brindisi, Italy
Colonne Romane – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale
Our hotel was the Grande Albergo Internazionale located on the Viale Regina Margherita down by the water. We booked a suite which overlooked the water.
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Front – Brindisi, Italy
It is a somewhat dated hotel, but has enough amenities to be comfortable. However, the outside and inside looks like it is in need of some restoration. Our room was spacious and the bathroom modern which was a big benefit.
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Patti in our room – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Our room – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Restaurant for Breakfast – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Outside our window – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Outside our window – Brindisi, Italy
Lungomare di Brindisi
As the name implies, you are able to walk along the water for some length along the Lungomare di Brindisi. It starts near the parking area when you enter the port down to, but no further than the Approdo delle Indie. After that begins an Italian Naval Base and you are redirected up a set of stairs and away from the shore.
Viale Regina Margherita – Lungomare di Brindisi – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Italian Mariner monument from the Lungomare di Brindisi – Brindisi, Italy
Viale Regina Margherita – Lungomare di Brindisi – Brindisi, Italy
Brindisi Shuttle Service
From the Lungomare, or Viale Regina Margherita, about where it intersects with Piazza Vittorio Emanuele III is one location you can pick up the shuttle. It has a four stop route along the inlet and completes the circuit about once every twenty minutes. One use, simple route charge was 1.20€ per person, which only excepts contactless credit card or NFC contactless payments from your phone, NO CASH.
Brindisi Shuttle Service – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Dock on the Airport Side – Brindisi, Italy
Brindisi Shuttle Service – Brindisi, Italy
Saint John At The Sepulchre
The St John At The Sepulchre is an ancient eleventh century Church of the Holy Sepulcher with circular construction built over a pre-existing church. It was built to resemble the ancient Anastasis Rotunda of the Holy Selpuchre in Jerusalem with the intention of providing a memory of that structure.
St John At The Sepulchre – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Brindisi, Italy
The monument is intended to show the close relationship between Brindisi and the Holy Land during the time of the crusades. Built by the Knight Order of the Canons Regular sometime before 1128, it was conceived to give those who could not pilgrimage to the Holy Land a feeling for that destination, and for those who have, a reminder of it.
St John At The Sepulchre – Main Entrance – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Media Presentation – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Media Presentation Showing Route To Isreal – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Other Items – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Old Nails, Hinges – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Side Entrance Lintel – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Patio – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Garden In Back – Brindisi, Italy
The hole in the floor shows Roman mosaics belonging to a large Roman house dating back to the first and second century CE.
St John At The Sepulchre – Columns – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Roman Ruins – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Roof Timber Works – Brindisi, Italy
There are multiple frescoes on the walls depicting several different important themes of Christianity. All of which have been damaged by previous ownership, no doubt to repurpose the building for other uses.
St John At The Sepulchre – Deposition From The Cross, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Deesis, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Saint Inside Arcat, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Flagellation, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – The Virgin And The Child, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Pentecost, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Saint George And The Dragon, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Side Entrance Lintel – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Patio – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Garden In Back – Brindisi, Italy
Porta Napoli
The Porta Napoli, also known as the Porta Mesagne, is the oldest entrance to the ancient city. It was constructed during Roman times by Marc Anthony to isolate the city from land side invasions. The Ruga Magistra or main street originated from this gate, which coincides today with via Carmine and via Filomeno Consiglio today.
Porta Napoli – Brindisi, Italy
Porta Napoli – Brindisi, Italy
Castello Svevo
Unlike the map that one of the major search providers tries to imply you can walk the entire way around bay to the Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia; this cannot be done. We found out the difficult way by walking to Castello Svevo or the Swabian Castle of Brindisi, only to find out that you cannot enter without a pass, it is an active Naval Base. Temporary passes can be obtained online, but there is a forty-eight hour waiting period (don’t ask – I have no idea why, however it is required before you may return and enter). Since we are not staying here that long we decided to forgo that pleasure.
So, denied entry, we changed our plans and headed for the Fontana Tancredi, thinking that it might be a sight to see, and afterwards we could just walk toward the bay and find the Lungomare; no such luck on both accounts. Most of the area in and around the castle is restricted and cannot be entered, the fountain is fenced off, overgrown and only trickles water, so total failure on both accounts.
Via Provincial San Vito – Brindisi, Italy
Aldo Moro Monument – Brindisi, Italy
Southern Italian Naval Base – Brindisi, Italy
In fact, they have very large naval ships anchored here as well temporary housing for illegal immigrants. We attempted to go as far as the tennis club, or Circolo Tennis Club, but then turned around. Had we known beforehand, we could have continued further and picked up the bay shuttle about a half kilometer further.
Castello Svevo – Map and where not to go – Brindisi, Italy
While walking back, we discovered the Santuario Santa Maria degli Angeli church. A nondescript church from the outside offers a better view from the inside. If you are in the area of Via Ferrante Fornari and see the church, it is worth to stick your head in and take a look.
Santuario Santa Maria degli Angeli – Brindisi, Italy
Santuario Santa Maria degli Angeli – Nave and Ceiling – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia
The large monument across the bay is the Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia, a naval monument erected for the fallen navy personal of Italy. It has two shore guns on either side and may be climbed for a fee, there is a lookout on the top that has a commanding view of the city.
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Restaurants
Most of the restaurants that we visited were down by the water and along the Lungomare.
Ristorante Windsurf
We chose this restaurant out of convenience, mostly because of the rain and threat of thunderstorms, and glad we did because while we were eating it poured. It was also conveniently located thirty meters from our hotel entrance.
Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – Lobster tank – Brindisi, Italy
The food is typical pizzeria food with a concentration on sea food for everything else. I chose a pizza and Patti stuck with a panini that they offered on the menu. The Negroamaro from Puglia was actually very nice, dry but not overly tannic.
Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – A Negroamaro from Puglia – Brindisi, Italy
Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi
A similar cafe and pizzeria as WindSurf is Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi, located just below the stairs to the Roman Column. We stopped here for a simple lunch consisting of salads, bread and pizza points. The wine was house wine, but was very good.
Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi – Patti’s Green Salad With Fruit And Nuts – Brindisi, Italy
We also stopped later in the evening for dinner, since they were one of the few restaurants around showing pasta with ragu sauce on their menus. Patti ordered the Penne all’Arrabbiata and I ordered the Tagliatelle al Ragú.
Final Thoughts
Although we both thought that Brindisi is rather clean and has some things to offer, we weren’t so sure that we visit, if we didn’t have so much time on our hands being retired. Therefore, for the casual visitor to Italy, we would not commend a visit, Bari and Trani have more to offer.
