Korčula, Croatia – Island Escape

After Split, Croatia we had planned on taking a detour to one of the islands for a bit of an escape. We knew it was going to be crowded, since tourist season was upon us and we thought it would be great to also break up the distance between Split and Dubrovnik. Our choice was the town of Korčula, on the eponymous island in Croatia.

Korčula

Is a small medieval walled town that was protected from the outside by walls. It was, in fact, not until later in the nineteenth century that citizen were allowed to build outside the walls.

The Town from Galerija Maksimilijana Vanka Viewpoint – Korčula, Croatia

The main entrance to the town is the large main gate. Today it is left open, but before modern times it was closed at night. There is a street that encircles the entire town and is very nice for a slow walk, while you enjoy the scenery and hopefully the weather.

Main Entrance to Town – Korčula, Croatia

Small Canon used for defense – Main Entrance – Korčula, Croatia

The town is laid out in a herringbone or pinnate leaf pattern. This allows for better air circulation, while at the same time offering protection against the most violent of storms that come in from the sea.

Ancient Drapery Pedastels – Korčula, Croatia

An old bricked up entrance – Korčula, Croatia

Patti by alley filled with stairs – Korčula, Croatia

Croatian Flag and side alley – Korčula, Croatia

The name of the island and town is derived from an Illyrian-Greek word that means the rock passage. It has been inhabited for at least a few thousand years. The Greeks were frequent visitor in the 6th B.C.E., and perhaps arrived on the island even before that time. The original population were colonies of Illyrians, which have left their telltale marks throughout the island. From the early 3rd B.C.E. the Romans knew of the island and subdued it later for five hundred years. Some of the Latin that was taught in those days, still lingers in the speech of the town’s peoples.

GettingThere

To get there, take the ferry service that runs between Split and Dubrovnik. There are several lines, unfortunately our original booking through Kapetan Luka was cancelled due to equipment issues, so we had to rebook on TPLine. It was fully booked, but very comfortable. Get in line early, because seats usually go fast.

Leaving Split – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia

Our boat trip – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia

Another small town – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia

A Word About Ferries

Just an opinion of course, but having been on both ferry lines, I would prefer the TPLine. On TPLine, your luggage is stowed indoors with you and not outside, as with Kapetan Luka line. The latter is fine otherwise, but in the event of bad weather, it appears your luggage would be soaked upon arrival to your destination. I also found their boats to have a bit more room to get around. I felt a bit cramped on the Luka line.

Departing Split – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia

Patti on board – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia

Our Hotel

The Aminess Liburna

A large modern hotel on the adjacent pennisula to the town. From here it was about a fifteen to twenty minute walk to inside the town walls. However, the hotel has all the amenities, including breakfast. They also have a pool and a small seaside area for swimming. The deluxe rooms are typical and met most of our requirements.

Our hotel across the inlet – Aminess Liburna Hotel – Korčula, Croatia

Aminess Liburna Hotel – Korčula, Croatia

Path from our hotel to town – Korčula, Croatia

Marco Polo House

Ostensibly Marco Polo lived in the house for some time during his travels. Which travels, the museum does not elaborate on. They only conjecture that Marco was there, based on the family owning property and having other interests on the island.

Alley entrance – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Interior – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Weapons Display – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Battles – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

The Polos were based in Venice and the city and its residents had a strong influence on the island and the town.

Old Maps Asia – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Old Maps of Europe – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Marco Polo’s adventures and artifacts are explained and exhibited in some detail. Enough at least to enjoy the small museum that they have made in his honor.

Upsidedowm Map of Europe, Middle East, Part of Africa, Asia and India subcontinent – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Upper Left Corner Details – Continents Map – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Upper Right Corner Details – Continents Map – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Lower Left Corner Details – Continents Map – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Lower Right Corner Details – Continents Map – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Old Map of Europe and Asia – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Old Book – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Museum learning aids – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Old Books he owned – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Map of Known World – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

His long twenty-seven years journey into Asia is the central theme. Some of the artifacts are copies or replicas, but the genuine one are very interesting.

Model of a 13th Century Axe – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Model of a 13th Century Sword – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Tapestry – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Indian Artifact – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Chinese Necklace and Copper Burner, an Indian Spice Container – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Of special interest were the model boat, a replica used in his travels, as well as assorted maps and other forms of reference used during the adventure.

Ship Model – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

One special artifact is that of the Tablet that Kubla Khan had given his company for safe travel. It essentially gave them Carte Blanche through the countryside. Anyone interfering with them, risked Khan and his army descending upon them.

Khan’s Golden Tablet – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

One of the last things to visit is the house tower, which commands a modest view of the surrounding area.

Entrance to Tower – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Tower Views – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Churches and Cathedrals

There are a few churches in the town and one cathedral of importance. The people who live in the town are very religious and masses are well attended on the weekends, especially during holidays.

Front – Church of Saint Peter – Korčula, Croatia

Church of Saint Michael

Modest from the outside and equally so inside, this church is emblematic of its worshippers’ devotion to their faith. The church’s centerpiece is Christ on the Cross.

Interior – Church of Saint Michael – Korčula, Croatia

Saint Mark’s Cathedral

A remarkably simple example of a Romanesque-Gothic Cathedral on the small island, but no less important is Saint Mark’s. It is central to the town and is noteworthy. Visitors are required to wear respectful clothing, no shorts or inappropriate clothing is allowed, so dress accordingly.

Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia

Entrance Details – Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia

Nave – Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia

The cathedral has some very interesting eavestroughs and other architectural tidbits that any visitor, with some time on their hands, may explore. The interior layout is typical, even though a bit simple.

Eavestroughs – Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia

Attached to the left of the cathedral is a side chapel, which is a bit more elaborate than that of the cathedral itself.

Side Chapel – Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia

Chapel of Our Lady of the Snows

A small votive chapel directly after you enter the main gate and to the left. The Chapel of Our Lady of the Snows also commemorate Saint Bartholomew and the Battle of 1483. According to someone who transcribed the events of the battle between the Venetians and Genoese, Marco Polo was captured during the battle and later imprisoned.^[1]It is actually unclear if he was captured at this battle, or a previous minor engagement at Laiazzo.

Restaurants

In some parts of Croatia, and especially Korčula, most of the restaurants go by Konoba. This is to denote thier Dalmation or Istrian heritage and may they take the form of cellar-like tavern or other small place that serves authentic local food. Most of them we found to be reasonably priced.

Konoba Riva

A new restaurant that open just before we arrived which offers a very delicious menu with food to match it. We ate here three times, twice for lunch and once for dinner and were never dissappointed. The food was never salty or overcooked and when it arrived, it was still hot! The service was also extremely attentive, no doubt trying to assert some sway over any reviews they would receive. It didn’t matter, it ended up as our go to place.

Minestrone Soup – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Mixed Salad with Grilled Chicken – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Pasta with Chicken – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Spaghetti Aglio e Olio – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Pannacotta with Apricot Jam – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Kruskovac Apéritif – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Sijivovica Apéritif – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Travarica Apéritif – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Konoba Biankura

Konoba Biankura is located about three streets down in the old town on the right. It offers a wide variety of food, along with pasta and some meat dishes. The fish soup is amazing and can be commended highly.

Panncotta with honey – Konoba Biankura – Korčula, Croatia

Konoba Aterina

The Konoba Aterina is a restaurant in the old town. It offers a view somewhat of the sun setting and has covered terrace outside seating. The food is good, the majority of which is seafood, so a good place to scratch your fishy itch. We ordered the Sea Bass, traditionally cooked, and were not dissappointed.

Vegetable Soup – Konoba Aterina – Korčula, Croatia

Grilled Sea Bass and Vegetables – Konoba Aterina – Korčula, Croatia

References[+]

References
↑1	It is actually unclear if he was captured at this battle, or a previous minor engagement at Laiazzo.

7 June, 20267 June, 2026

Split, Croatia – Roman Repose

About a hundred and sixty miles from Zagreb and a hundred and ten miles from the Italian coast is Croatia‘s second largest city, Split. Today it is a tourist hot-spot and destination for cruise ships, whereas two thousand years ago it was Emporer Diocletian’s retirement home and where he would repose in his declining years.

Split

The old city center of Split is reminiscent of towns on the Ligurian coast of Italy, covered in bright limestone and other materials mined from quarries in the area. When the sun beats off of it, it can be blinding and almost uncomfortable hot.

Many of the streets in town are very narrow and cannot support vehicular traffic, so walking the old town should not be an issue. Having said that, it does not discourage mopeds, so stay alert while walking in any case.

Narrow Street – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Trogirska Street – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Let Me Pass Street – Very Narrow Street – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

The city is in the province of Dalmatia, which has a very distinctive culinary culture and influence on the food. There are heavy Italian and Roman influences in the food, construction and city layout, with the central building in the area being in and around Diocletian’s Palace.

Tomislava Street – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Main Shopping Street – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Fountain and Cup – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Two other noteworthy points of interest are the Republic Square and the People’s Square. One is near the water, while the other is in the middle of the city.

Republic Square – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Peoples Square – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Cyprian’s Palace – Peoples Square – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

Clock Tower – Peoples Square – Marmontova Ulica – Split, Croatia

There is also a very active port area and a large number of berths for ferries, which frequent the city daily.

The city also has a large sign for tourist, which appears to be customary in some southern European cities. Here you can take a photograph to remember your adventure.

Getting There

From Zagreb, we took Croatian Airlines which operates flights to Split that continue onto Rome, Italy. At forty minutes it is the fastest way to get to the coast. From the airport to the old town of Split will take on average an additional thirty to forty minutes, depending on the time of day and whether there is any construction.

Split from our Lyft ride – Split, Croatia

Diocletian’s Palace

The Diocletian Palace is a large complex just off center of the old town of Split. It was to retirement home of the Roman Emperor Diocletian and was built some time around the third century CE. It is the reason that Split exists and is the ultimate destination here for those interested in Roman history.

Roman Arches and Fortress Wall – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Triklinij – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Side Street – Diocletians Palace – Split, Croatia

Another entrance – Diocletians Palace – Split, Croatia

There is an excellent example of fifth century Roman mosaic tiles behind the cathedral which should draw your attention.

Mosaic Floors – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

The Cellars

Some of the more interesting points of the complex are the cellars, where much of the work maintaining the palace was performed. These consist of a free part that provides access to the palace via the Brass Gate.

Free Cellars – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

There is a more extensive part of the cellars that can be seen for a nominal cost.

Tickets For Two – Cellars – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Cellars – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

What It Looked Like – Cellars – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Split Peninsula – Cellars – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Well – Cellars – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Diorama – Cellars – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

The Temple Of Jupiter

The Temple of Jupiter is in line with Saint Domnius Cathedral and its Tower, but on the other side of the Peristil. It is rather small and contains a statue of Jupiter, along with other objects on note. There is also what appears to be a font in the center of the room.

Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Tomb – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Inscription – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Entrance – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Jupiter – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Font – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Main Room – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Ceiling – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Relief – Jupiter’s Temple – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Colum – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Iron Gate – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

The Vestibule

The Vestibule and the Rotunda are major open-air sites to see near the cathedral. The entrance to the vestibule contains two ancillary lintels of note, with inscriptions atop each.

Left Lintel – Vestibule – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Right Lintel – Vestibule – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Arch leading into the Vestibule – Diocletians Palace – Split, Croatia

The Rotunda is a large area with a round ceiling and oculus that is very reminiscent of the Pantheon in Rome.

Vestibule – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Diocletian’s Fortress

The outside fortress walls that protected the palace had four large towers on each corner, for which only few still remain.

Southwestern Tower – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Venetian Tower – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

The Gates And Entrances

There are several gates to the palace, some of which are not so prominent as the others and a few are no longer functional. The Golden Gate is the main gate of the palace, though one could make an argument that the Brass Gate was more important since it faces the sea.

Golden Gate – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

The Silver Gate faces the east and along with the Golden Gate is one of the better preserved gates to the palace. The Iron Gate is buried within the walls and narrow alleyways of Split to the west. Transformed after the emperor left and the palace fell into disrepair.

Silver Gate – Diocletians Palace – Split, Croatia

Gradski Park

Just outside the Golden Gate is Gradski Park. Here you will find a statue from Gregory Ninskomu, a fountain and Bell Tower and Chapel of the Holy Arnir.

Gregory Ninskomu Statue – Split, Croatia

Fountain – Park Josipa Jurja Strossmayer – Split, Croatia

Tower of Chapel of Holy Arnir and Gregory Ninskomu Statue – Split, Croatia

Saint Domnius Cathedral

One of the main buildings within the palace is Saint Domnius Cathedral. Along with its bell tower it commands attention next to the vestibule.

Saint Domnius Bell Tower – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Colums – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Entrance – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Altar – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Side Altar – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Ceiling – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Doors – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Tomb – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Porch Ceiling – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Pulpit – Saint Domnius Cathedral – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

The Crypt

The cathedral also houses a small crypt underneath it. However, today it is used for religious art, rather than storing of bodies and bones.

Patti – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Saint Lucia – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Main Room – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Well – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Artwork – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Jesus as Eucharist – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Tranfiguration of Christ on Mount Tabor – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Kingdom of God Proclaimed – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Wedding at Cana in Galilee – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Baptism of Jesus – Saint Domnius Cathedral Crypt – Diocletian’s Palace – Split, Croatia

Marjan Hill

One the western part of the city is the Marjan Hill. Known locally as a hiking destination, is has several hundred steps to climb, before one gets a commanding view of the countryside.

Solta Island – Marjan Hill – Split, Croatia

Church of Saint Nicholas

Atop the hill is the small chapel and Church of Saint Nicholas, first commissioned in 1219. It has a small Gothic-Renaissance bell tower and is still outfitted and used for mass, especially on December 6th. The Croatians are a deeply religious catholic people and you will often find attendance very high if you were to peak your head in during a Sunday Mass.

Entrance – Church of Saint Nicholas and Bell – Marjan Hill – Split, Croatia

Inside – Church of Saint Nicholas and Bell – Marjan Hill – Split, Croatia

Restaurants

Cicibela Restaurant

Very near our place of hotel was the Cicebela restaurant. A very good restaurant that serves traditional food, albeit at a higher price. Everything we ordered was very tasty and the service was equally responsive.

Soup – Cicibela Restaurant – Split, Croatia

Waiting – Cicibela Restaurant – Split, Croatia

Pasticada – Cicibela Restaurant – Split, Croatia

Tuna Steak – Cicibela Restaurant – Split, Croatia

Panacota and Orahovac – Cicibela Restaurant – Split, Croatia

Buffet Fife

Located near the waterfront is the Buffet Fife, a local restaurant that is similar to a trattoria in Italy. Here you will find and enjoy many Croatian home-cooked dishes. We ordered the stuffed cabbage rolls in sauce with mashed potatoes, which are very similar to the Polish variety of Gołąbkis, or Galumpkis. They were delicious and come well commended.

Patti waiting for dinner – Buffet Fife – Split, Croatia

Stuffed Cabbage and Mashed Potatoes with Salad – Buffet Fife – Split, Croatia

Focaccia Antico Spalato

On the more modest side of things is the Focacciaria, Antico Spalato. A veritable hole-in-the-wall, we visited it while trying to stay out of the pouring rain.

Lunch – Focaccia Antio Spalato – Split, Croatia

Panini Sandwich – Focaccia Antio Spalato – Split, Croatia

3 June, 20263 June, 2026

Zagreb, Croatia – Golden Bull

Zagreb, the etymology of the name even today is disputed, is actually composed of two historic city centers, Kaptol to the east and Gradec to the west. Today, it consists of an even larger metropolitan area, where more than a million people live.

Zagreb

On a normal day, the historic parts of the city are filled with tourists and sightseers, however the weekends can be quieter. We arrived on a Sunday and found it strangely quiescent.

The Old Part of Town – Gradec – Zagreb, Croatia

Kaptol was the first to be formally recognized as pertaining to Zagreb, followed by Gradec some time later through King Bela IV edict of the Golden Bull. They both sit upon their corresponding hills and lay alongside one another, being separated somewhat by a slight depression where the Тkalčićeva ulica street runs.

Тkalčićeva ulica Street – Zagreb, Croatia

Getting There

Coming from Turin we flew with Air Dolomiti to Munich and then later on to Zagreb, two short one hour flights which took us about five hours to complete with layover.

The Zagrab airport is small, perhaps smaller than most would expect. It took us approximately an hour to get our luggage, once we had left the plane. So do not expect the speedy luggage service you may enjoy elsewhere, here, things definitely move slower. In such cases, it might be good to have air-tags, just to keep an eye on where your luggage is, before getting alarmed. We got them as a gift and they really came in handy.

Of course you can also come by car, but from what we can see, parking is a problem and quite expensive. Train, is also an option, though we ruled it out due to scheduling issues and other considerations.

Lower Zagreb

We stayed in Lower Zagreb very close to Kaptol and the main square. From here we were able to visit most parts of the old city within a ten to fifteen minute walk.

Zrinjevac Park

Actually many parks in tandem and tied together by several buildings and monuments. It is actually a nice place to take a stroll and enjoy the salubrious spring weather.

Patti – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia

Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia

Science Musuem – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia

Strossmayer Stature – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia

Art Pavilion – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia

King Tomislav Monument – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia

Gradec

To the west of Kaptol and across small depression represented by Pavla Radica, where you will find many bars, cafes and some restaurants, is Gradec, also referred to as Grič.

The Stone Gate

One of the entrances to Gradec is via the Stone Gate. It is adorned by a statue of Saint George before you get there and actually contains a small chapel.

Saint George Statue – Pavla Radica Street – Zagreb, Croatia

Saint George Statue and Stone Gate – Pavla Radica Street – Zagreb, Croatia

Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary – Zagreb, Croatia

Saint Mark’s Church

The most prominent structure here is Saint Mark’s Church. Noted for its polychrome roof tiles depicting the coats of arms of Croatia and Zagreb, it is a beautiful to see. Again, like other structures in the area, it too was damaged by the earthquake and was still undergoing renovations at the time of our visit. Therefore, we were unable to go inside or even get up close to its facade.

Observation Tower

The Observation Tower, or Lotrščak Tower, can be found near Saint Mark’s Church in Gradec. It is right next to the Furnicular station to Lower Zagreb and can be ascended for a modest fee. We chose not to, since the weather was terrible and it was raining and overcast.

Overview of Lower City and Furnicular – Zagreb, Croatia

Tunel Grič

Built during World War II as a bomb shelter, the Tunel Grič, or Gric Tunnel is commonly used as a pedestrian path now, even though several sections of it are in disrepair and no longer used. The main section spans about a quarter of a mile an connects western side of Gradec with the eastern side on Pavla Radica street.

Entrance to Gric Tunnel – Strossmayer Park – Zagreb, Croatia

Kaptol

Even today it appears that most of the real estate here is consigned to the Roman Catholic clergy in one form or another. It is here where you will find the Cathedral of Zagreb, the seat of arch bishop.

Monument to Kumica Barica – Zagreb, Croatia

Dome of the Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary – Zagreb, Croatia

Walking the Kaptol street is very relaxing. All of Zagreb is rather well cared for in one repect or another, but this area even more so with its beautiful buildings and well maintained park, the Ribnjak Park.

Small Catholic Chapel – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia

Zagreb Cathedral

An enormous and the most prominent building in Kaptol is the Zagreb Cathedral. It is the second tallest building in Croatia and is surrounded by the Kaptol Fortress. Unfortunately at this writing, it was undergoing heavy reconstruction after the 2020 Earthquake., where most of its facade and interior are shrouded in construction scaffolding and screens.

Coming up to the Cathedral – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia

Zagreb Cathedral – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia

The southern spire had snapped off during the quake and crashed onto one of the adjacent buildings. The northern spire was later removed because it was leaning and can now be seen alongside the cathedral, waiting for its eventual return.

Bells – Zagreb Cathedral – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia

Nave – Zagreb Cathedral – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia

Restaurants

Gostionica Ficlek

The restaurant Gostionica Ficlek is a good place to enjoy the gastronomy of Croatia and Zagreb. It has a fine collection of tasty treats on its menu that can be tried for a more than reasonable price. The traditional chicken soup tastes like a typical chicken soup, until you notice the dumplings, which just puts it over the top.

Entrance – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Menu – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Patti – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Ajngmahtec – Traditional Chicken Soup with Dumplings – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Zagrebački odreyak – Breaded Pork stuffed with Ham and Cheese, Potato Salad – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Cruffin with Vanilla Creme and Brioche with Almonds – Korica Cafe – Zagreb, Croatia

Patti’s Turkey with mlinci – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Heritage Street Food

For lunch, Patti selected a tiny establishment on Petrinjska street, known as Heritage Street Food. Their concentration is on Paninis and Focaccia style sandwiches, which when combined with other delectable sides, create a truly enjoyable and tasty little adventure for your palate.

Bread with spicy olive oil – Heritage Street Food Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Istrian Pearl Sandwich – Heritage Street Food Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

House Sauvignon Blanc with Gligora Cheese platter with Walnuts, Fig Jam and Figs – Heritage Street Food Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Puslek Honey Herbal Liqueur – Heritage Street Food Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia

Caffe & Bar Jupi

The day that we left Zagreb we visited a small cafe for breakfast called Caffe & Bar Jupi. Patti ordered the pancakes with fruit and I had the scrambled eggs. Both were delicious and hit the spot on a busy and somewhat chilly morning.

Patti – Cafe and Bar Jupi – Zagreb, Croatia

Scrambled eggs, Hüttenkäse and Cucumber salad – Cafe and Bar Jupi – Zagreb, Croatia

Pancakes with Berries – Cafe and Bar Jupi – Zagreb, Croatia

28 April, 20268 May, 2026

Reggio Calabria, Italy – Calabrian Classic

If anyone travels all the way down to the very tip of Italy they will discover Reggio Calabria, a Calabrian city with all the classic touches of Southern Italy. Offshore, you will see the ever present Mount Etna smoking in the background.

Getting There And Back

To get there we took TrennItalia’s Calabrian Regional train service from Tropea. Approximately a two hour train ride that eventually hugs the coast and offers a preview of the Italian island of Sicily.

Our First View of Sicily – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy

Messina Ferry – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy

Coming Into Reggio Calabria – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy

To get back we used Reggio Calabria’s airport, where RyanAir offers direct service to Turin’s Caselle Airport. Another trip just short of two hours which also hugs the coast of Italy and also offers views of Sardinia and other prominent points of interest from the air.

Reggio Calabria

The official name for the city is Reggio Calabria, but it is also known by its traditional names of Reggio di Calabria and just plain Reggio. The city was almost completely destroyed by an earthquake in the beginning of the last century and its more hopefully robust version has new amenities the former city lacked.

Large Banyan Trees – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Corso Garibaldi – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Piazza d’Italia – Reggio Calabria, Italy

If you love food, visit the shops along Corso Garibaldi. Many have interesting and local foods that you can bring home with you to enjoy, while you reminisce about your time in Calabria.

Calabrian Volcanic Spread – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Just up from our hotel and on the transformed via Giudecca street, is the eponymous stairway.

Giudecca Stairway – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Torrine Hotel

On the edge of the older and more vibrant part of the city, the Torrine Hotel is about four blocks from the waterfront. This is just as well, since it provides a quieter place to stay, with the exception being rush hour; it is located on a busy one-way thoroughfare through the city that buses frequent. Our room came with breakfast, a mixture of continental with some warm food thrown in.

Breakfast – Hotel Torrione – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Lungomare

The city has an extensive waterfront and a beautiful Lungomare to go with it. Near the end of it, in the urban park, you will find a nice long sign with the city’s name where you can take memorable photographs.

Beach – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Looking North – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Patti by City Sign – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Erick by City Sign – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

There are several points of interest along the boardwalk and a leisurely stroll along it will eventually bring you to all of them.

Abandoned Boats – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Wave Science Experiment – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Unknown Statue – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Somewhere near the end, down by the Roman Baths, Patti found the Big Bench. Apparently just installed, since it had no placename on it yet.

Patti finds the Big Bench – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Monumento Della Vittoria

From our hotel on Via Giula, almost directly down the street and on the waterfront and Lungomare, is the Monumento della Vittoria. It is a monument erected for Italy’s World War I victory and Victor Emmanuele III, which also has replica of the Statue of Athena Promachos inside it.

Arena del Stretto – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Roman Baths

Along the Lungomare is a site of old Roman baths from antiquity.

Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo

A large cathedral in the Piazza Duomo is the Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo. It was partially destroyed in the 1908 earthquake and rebuilt with a fusion of Romanesque and Gothic styles.

Bronze Doors – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Aisle – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Clerestory by Entry – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

The most interesting interior element of the cathedral is its ceiling. A timbered edifice that is remarqued and painted in a most interesting style, including pagan elements which appear to be handpainted.

Nave – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Nave’s Ceiling – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Crossing – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Urn – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Altar and Apse – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Organ in Transept – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Side Chapel – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Castello Aragonese

The Castle Aragonese no longer functions as a castle and has been renovated into something more useful, an art museum. Here for a small fee you are able to enjoy two galleries, one in each tower.

Tickets For Two – Entry to Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

North Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Patti on South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

North Tower Gallery

During our visit this gallery had an exhibit of modern paintings, most of which bright colors were used in an almost three dimensional approach.

Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

South Tower Gallery

While we were visiting this tower housed a collection of art known as Voci senza Volto, or Voices without a Face. An effective and provocitive collection of art, which appears part surreal and part dystopian and gets the viewer to think about signs of struggle, longing and hardship. This was the high point of the trip for me.

Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Being Neutral Serves No One – Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Villas And Palazzos

There are a few villas and palazzos of import in the city.

Villa Genoese Zerbi

A beautiful Venetian Art Nouveau style building on the Corso Emanuele is the villa of Genoese Zerbi. The original was destroyed in the great quake, but it was completely restored and now is one of the main charms of the city.

Palazzos Spinelli and Giuffrè

These two palazzos are side by side on the Corso Emanuele by the waterfront. Both appear to need some work. Palazzo Spinelli offers a great example of Calabrian architecture and Art Nouveau, or the liberty style.

Palazzo Spinelli – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Palazzo Giuffrè on the other hand offers a more mundane example, and is reminiscent of other buildings you will find in other large Italian cities.

Palazzo Giuffri – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Restaurants

Drogheria Culinaria

Using its former name for the grocery store the family used to own, it now serves food and drinks. It has a decent wine list, with several good varietals by the glass.

Inside – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

The food is also pretty good and you will definitely be able to find something to slake your appetite at this establishment.

Meatballs, Bread with Hot ‘Nduja and Wine – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Pat’s Spaghettone and Erick’s Tagliotella, both with Pork Ragú sauce – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante

One of the restaurants in the area that is highly recommended for local Calabrian dishes is the Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante. Located on via Reggio Campi and via II Dezembre, this small little restaurants attacts all the locals, so have your reservation in hand before leaving your hotel or place of stay.

Old Citroen – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Everything we tried had that home cooking taste without any loss to attention to detail. The Stufato is highly recommended and will melt in your mouth.

Menu – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Stufato di Maialino a bassa Temperatura with Coleslaw – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Cavatelli al Sugo di Capra – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Stufato di Maialino a bassa Temperatura – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

While we were there a local class was having their end of year party, so noise levels were through the roof. However, it was still enjoyable, especially watching the children eating all that food. Made me remember how hungry I used to be as a school kid.

End of Year Lunch for Children – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Fennel Aperativo with Expresso – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Tartufo – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

23 April, 202630 April, 2026

Amalfi Coast, Italy – Part Four

Amalfi Coast

On our second and final day to the Amalfi Coast, we were fortunate enough to enjoy a lemon experience near Tramonti. After our tour and lunch, we visited the other smaller Amalfi towns of Maiori, Minori and finally Cetara. There is not much to see in any of them and may be skipped. Except perhaps for Minori, which if you are looking for a beach spot along the coast, may offer the best option.

Getting There

On our second day we had arranged for the same tour guide that we had the previous day, Mind The Nap tours^[1]If you would like to find them, they are on one of the more frequently used social media applications.. Therefore, we took a hired vehicle from Naples to drive once again over the Anti Appenine mountains, via SP2a, to Tramonti and then to the other coastal towns. Returning along the coastal road via Vietri sul Mare and A3.

Tramonti

The term for this comune and town literaly means, in between the mountains. As we can attest with the photographs that we took, it definitely is in between the mountains. Our guide explained that the mixture of sun, heat and moisture is excellent for growing lemons in the area and some varieties of grapes.

Tramonti_01

Tramonti_02

Tramonti_03

Azienda Agricola Lemon Experience

Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle can provide a lemon experience. It is part guided tour, part lunch, with the most complete explanation of lemons you will probably ever experience.

Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Lemon Experience Tour

Our tour started out where are tour guide dropped us off, near the small abandoned church of Chiesa parrocchiale S. Elia Profeta in Ferriera, Tramonti.

The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy

Courtyard – The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy

Here our young guide explained in english all the geological, climate and other aspects of lemon growing, while pointing our specific areas between the mountains we were in.

The Surrounding Countryside – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Patti and Ruben – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Poppies – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Alessandro and Patti – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Then he took us to an old man named Ruben, definitely not an Italian name, who explained the horticulture of lemon trees. He showed us how he dries out different kind of seeds from fruit and vegetables that he has raised since he was a child with his father. He is seventy-four years old and does not look a day over sixty.

Ruben Explaining Lemons and Lemon Growing – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Blossoms, Unripe and Ripe Lemons All On The Same Tree – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Ruben Seed Drying, The Old Fashion Way – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Then we had a cute little photograph session, where he had a small chair strategically placed within his one lemon grove.

Patti, Erick and Ruben – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Patti, Erick and Alessandro – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Lemon Experience Luncheon

The luncheon was prepared by Ruben’s wife, Luisa. While she cooked inside their small garden house, Ruben prepared for us a Limoncello Spritz for each of us. It was delicious, as well as all the food that was served.

Ruben Making Limoncello Spritz – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Our Luncheon Feast – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Tramonti_15_AziendaAgricolaLeFormichelle_09_LemonExperience_25

Once we started drinking that, which was made using his own Limoncello, the food started coming out. First the appetizers, then more plentiful food and last a portion of Lasagna.

Real Baked Italian Lasagna With Pancetta – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Dolci – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Patti and Erick Enjoying Lunch – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Le Formichelle Limoncello – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Luisa And Pasqual In The Kitchen – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Their Brick Oven – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy

Maiori

The town of Maiori literally means “major”, after the river which now flows under the Corso Reginna, the river Reghinna Maiori. It has over the years been abbreviated to just Maiori. First founded by the Etruscans, it was later conquered by the Romans, like the rest of Italy.

Palazzo Mezzacapo

One specific spot to visit would be the Palazzo Mezzacapo, which is situated just off the Corso Reginna in town. It has an very interesting garden with underground vaulted wells.

Palazzo Mezzacapo – Gardens – Maiori, Italy

Minori

The same is true for the town of Minori, which literally means “minor”, after the river which now flows through it, the Reghinna Minori. The town’s name over the years been abbreviated to just Minori. It’s claim to fame is was used by the Roman high society as a seaside resort. It does have the longest and widest swath of beach on the coast.

Typical Small Town Alley – Minori, Italy

Basilica Saint Trofimena – Minori, Italy

Patti and Erick – Leaving Minori – Minori, Italy

Cetera

This small town was most likely named after the tuna fishermen that used to live there, as well as the fishmongers, or cetari. Its most important feature is one of the larger Amalfi Coast towers, which dot the coastline and were once used for protection by the Amalfi Federation, or Duchy of Amalfi.

Beach and Tower of Cetara – Cetara, Italy

Bronze Doors – Parochial Church of Saint Peter – Cetara, Italy

Entrance – Parochial Church of Saint Peter – Cetara, Italy

In Conclusion

We enjoyed our trip to the Amalfi Coast, overall it was a worthwhile experience. Though I would caution, for me, it did not live up to all of the hype and hyperbole surrounding it as a destination. With some of the towns entertaining cruise ships during the tourist season, it truly could turn into one of the more exasperating places to visit at the wrong time of the calendar year.

The Lemon Groves – The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy

In Between Mountains – The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy

However, we had amazing weather, perfect temperatures and manageable numbers of tourist. Though some places were not available to us at this time, since they open up in the later May and June timeframes for peak season; this was not a problem for us, since we are not big shoppers. In any case, we would commend a tour, or private tour if you can afford it. Removing the need to drive the winding roads, was alone a big plus for us.

Enjoy!

References[+]

References
↑1	If you would like to find them, they are on one of the more frequently used social media applications.

20 April, 202623 April, 2026

Naples, Italy – Our Brief Return

Recently we made a decision to return to Naples, if only to use it as a launch point to visit the Amalfi Coast. It was a brief return to enjoy the food and some of the sites we fell in love with four years ago.

Naples

When we travel to Naples, we usually stay in Chiaia. It is an upscale and slightly newer part of Naples that offers a bit more quiet and relief from the tourist activity in the center. It also offers a furnicular to Vomero, which can be used to hop over to the Spanish Quarter, as well as great metro and regional train service.

Coming into Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy

Getting There

We took the FrecciaRossa TrenItalia service from Torino’s Porta Nuova. It takes about six hours and makes about just as many stops along the way. We normally purchase or make sandwiches for such trips, so that we may enjoy the trip without getting overly hungry.

Hotel Pinto Storey

Again, we booked the Pinto Storey hotel in Chiaia. A simple, quiet three star hotel occupying one floor by the Piazza Amadeo. It is a very convenient place to stay, because there is the metro and regional train stop in the Piazza, which gives you quick access to the entire city and beyond.

Capri in the distance – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Hotel Pinto Storey – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Continental Breakfast – Hotel Pinto Storey – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

The Spanish Quarter

We visited the Spanish Quarter before and see that there is much more activity here now, since we were last here at the end of the pandemic. It is worth a walk through if you have never been here and there seem to be several streets now that have active stores and street vendors on them.

Centro

The center part of the city has not changed a bit. The central shopping street is just a busy as when we were here last time. A stroll up the christmas street is also a must if you come for a visit.

Voremo

One our way back to Chiaia we took the furnicular up to Voremo to get a few photographs of Monte Somma and Vesuvius. They do not cost much and provide an easy means for getting around the more difficult parts of the city.

Tickets for Two – Vomero – Naples, Italy

Restaurants

We came to Naples having only one restaurant on our list of places we wanted to visit. Any others were based on proximity or a quick search for a place to eat. However, half of the time we were here, we didn’t even eat dinner. Preferring rather to enjoy a large lunch at our day trip destinations instead.

Osteria Pignatelli

A highly rated restaurant, that for all intents and purposes you should call for a reservation, since it tends to get very busy. The interior is appealing and fairly modern. The food is very good as well. Perhaps not the best I have had in Naples, but equal to the Michelin stars they have earned.

Patti – Osteria Pignatelli – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Table Setting – Osteria Pignatelli – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Eggplant and Stuffed Pumpkin Flowers – Osteria Pignatelli – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Potatoes with Cheese – Osteria Pignatelli – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Pasta Genovese – Osteria Pignatelli – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Portico Pizzeria é Trattoria

On Via dei Tribunali is the Portico Pizzeria é Trattoria. We stopped here for lunch and enjoyed a nice meal at surprisingly reasonable prices for this part of the city. The service was timely and the food was very good, so it is commendable.

Entrance – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy

Patti – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy

Pasta Fresca and Insalata Mista – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy

Mozzarella Spoon – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy

Erick – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy

Pizzeria Staiano Dal 1964

This is a small family own trattoria that specializes in pizza. They also have a menu that changes each day, which contains a nice selection of local specialities.

Pizza Margherita – Pizzeria Staiano dal 1964 – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

We were luck enough to visit twice, so that we could try both the pizza and the pasta dishes.

Aranicini – Pizzeria Staiano dal 1964 – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Pasta Genovese – Pizzeria Staiano dal 1964 – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

Dessert – Pizzeria Staiano dal 1964 – Chiaia – Naples, Italy

15 March, 202625 March, 2026

Seligenstadt, Germany – Ancient Castral

Built around the ancient remains of an old Roman Castrum, Seligenstadt is one of Germany’s oldest towns. The Romans established a fortified encampment around the second century and maintained it for over a hundred and fifty years. Some time in the mid third century the germanic tribes repeatedly attacked the castrum, forcing the Romans to withdraw across the Rhine river, leaving a pile of rubble behind. Some time afterwards it was known as Obermühlheim and some of the earliest buildings in Seligenstadt are dated to the seventh century and are still standing.

A stone’s throw from one of the public parking places is the Wendelinuskapelle. A small chapel honoring Saint Wendel, patron saint of farmers and shepards. Built in the late 1800s it stands on the place of a former Heiligenhäuschen. The Baroque doorway is some 160 years older than the chapel itself and was taken from the west portal of the Seligenstadt Basilica, when it was renovated in 1868. The inside is rather plain and in need of some repair.

Seligenstadt

The three main attractions in this town are the Benedictine Monastery, the Einhard-Basilika and the town’s Marktplatz, or marketplace. One can also find along the Große Maingasse a ferry crossing that crosses the Main river, which separates Hesse from Bavaria.

For the most part the town appears to have been saved from the ravages of war. Many of the original timber houses still stand and many have historical markers on them, giving the passer-by a brief history of the structure before them.

Timber Houses – Kleine Rathausgasse 10 – Seligenstadt, Germany

Timber Houses – Kleine Rathausgasse 5 – Seligenstadt, Germany

Benedictine Monastery

The monastery, which was established by the Benedictines in 815, houses a museum now and a beautifully maintained garden overlooking the Main river.

Former Benedictine Abbey – History – Seligenstadt, Germany

Former Benedictine Abbey – Entrance – Seligenstadt, Germany

Former Benedictine Abbey – Gardens – Seligenstadt, Germany

Former Benedictine Abbey – Gardens and Church – Seligenstadt, Germany

Einhard-Basilika

Though started in the early ninth century as the Saint Marcellinus and Petrus church, it is currently known as the basilica of Einhard, who was one of Charlemagne’s closest friends and advisors. The facade of the church is neo-roman, though there are several other styles of note, including early gothic.

Marktplatz

While we were visiting, a political infomation event was being held in the marketplace, which includes the Rathaus. The area is surrounded by quaint little shops, cafes and government buildings.

Restaurants

The weather was cold, cloudy and wet, typical for this time of year. So, when it was time it was essential to find a warm place with good food, so Italian with a pizza oven sounded about right.

Ristorante & Pizzeria 1744

A modern restaurant with a surprisingly large staff was able to accomodate us for lunch. I would expect that during busier times, reservations might be recommended.

The food was excellent. We tried the soups and main pasta dishes, which most people around us seem to favor; so we cannot really speak about the quality of the pizza. They also have traditional italian coffee and other after dinner amenities.

Ristorante & Pizzeria 1744 – Menu – Seligenstadt, Germany

Ristorante & Pizzeria 1744 – Primitivo – Seligenstadt, Germany

Ristorante & Pizzeria 1744 – Spaghetti with Pine Nuts and Bärlauch – Seligenstadt, Germany

Ristorante & Pizzeria 1744 – Spaghettini Aglio e Olio – Seligenstadt, Germany

17 March, 202520 March, 2025

Frankfurt, Germany – Some Eateries In The Area

We recently spent two weeks in the Frankfurt area with family. While we were there, we had the good fortune to visit a few new restaurants and a couple of old favorites.

Restaurants In Frankfurt

Lokal Bahnhof

Though we did eat at the Lokal Bahnhof in Frankfurt Süd, Darmstädter Landstraße 14, it was not remarkable enough to take any photographs. A nice enough place to eat for lunch, but aside from a quick bite, nothing special.

Restaurants In Offenbach

Papi Original Italian Ristorante

Located in Offenbach, at Friedrichsring 39, is an excellent place for an evening meal called Papi Original Italian. A favorite of our’s when we are in the area, it had good service and very good food. The menu has very good southern Italian dishes and pizza, so something for everyone.

Papis Original Italian Restaurant – Main Entrance – Offenbach, Germany

Papis Original Italian Restaurant – Pizza – Offenbach, Germany

Papis Original Italian Restaurant – Spaghetti Bolognese – Offenbach, Germany

Papis Original Italian Restaurant – Pasta Bolognese – Offenbach, Germany

Restaurants In Dreieich

Since we were staying in Dreieich, most of the restaurants we visited were in this small, quaint little town.

China Restaurant Hong Kong

The China Restaurant Hong Kong is located on Hauptstraße 8 on the main avenue of town. It has laterns outside, so is easily visible from your car as you drive passed it. However, it is also an easy walk from some of the nearby parking locations.

China Restaurant Hong Kong – Inside Decor – Dreieich, Germany

The food is good and they have a good variety on the menu, including Thai and some Vietnamese dishes.

China Restaurant Hong Kong – Mixed Salad, Spring Roll – Dreieich, Germany

China Restaurant Hong Kong – Fried Rice with Vegetables – Dreieich, Germany

China Restaurant Hong Kong – Mixed Salad – Dreieich, Germany

China Restaurant Hong Kong – Pork and Onion over Rice – Dreieich, Germany

Wirsthaus Leopolt

If you are actually looking for German food, look no further than Leopolt’s. They have weekly specials, as well as all the favorites and a variety of other dishes. It is also located in town at Hauptstraße 20.

Wirsthaus Leopolt – Mixed Salad – Dreieich, Germany

Wirsthaus Leopolt – Pfälzer Saumagen or Pig’s Stomach – Dreieich, Germany

Wirsthaus Leopolt – Menu – Dreieich, Germany

Wirsthaus Leopolt – Weekly Specials – Dreieich, Germany

La Rughetta Ristorante

On Eisenbahnstraße 38 is the Italian restaurant La Rughetta. A smaller establishment than the others, it has a small, comfortable atmosphere with a family cooking feel. The menu has your typical items on it and the food is very good, though you may have to wait some time before it appears, so bring your patience.

Ristorante La Rughetta – Main Entrance – Dreieich, Germany

Ristorante La Rughetta – Inside – Dreieich, Germany

Ristorante La Rughetta – Molinari and Coffee Beans – Dreieich, Germany

La Faggio

A newer, more upscale place to eat, that has the appearance of one of the in-places to go is La Faggio, located closer to the train station at Buchschlager Allee 19. Though the eating area is rather spacious, we had the impression there were not enough servers to adequately attend to everyone in a timely manner; so be prepared to wait longer, even to order.

Ristorante La Faggio – Eggplant Parmigiano – Dreieich, Germany

Ristorante La Faggio – Filet Mignon – Dreieich, Germany

Ristorante La Faggio – Spaghetti and Tomatoes with Oil and Garlic – Dreieich, Germany

Ristorante La Faggio – Bruschetta – Dreieich, Germany

Ristorante La Faggio – Mixed Salad – Dreieich, Germany

Al Dente da Pino Ristorante

At the other end of town is Al Dente da Pino Ristorante at Dieselstraße 3. Again, an Italian restaurant with a friendly charm and comfortable atmosphere. The food is very good and the service prompt and friendly. Probably one of the better places in town to eat.

Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Entrance – Dreieich, Germany

Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Artwork – Dreieich, Germany

Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Photographs – Dreieich, Germany

Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Minestrone – Dreieich, Germany

Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Caprese Salad – Dreieich, Germany

Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Mixed Salad – Dreieich, Germany

Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Pasta Bolognese – Dreieich, Germany

Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Pork Piccata – Dreieich, Germany

Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Braised Pork – Dreieich, Germany

Restaurants In Dreieichenhain

A short stone’s throw away from Dreieich is Dreieichenhain, a medieval little touristy like town with a Roman Wall and Clock Tower Gate. We have been here several times and try a different place to eat, each time we visit. On the day of our visit it was for a small brunch.

Old Roman Wall – Dreieichenhain, Germany

Cafe Cult

A small cafe kind of in the middle of town. Modern, friendly and quick, they have something for most everyone. Including very good coffee and other drinks. The desserts look amazing, though we did not try any. The bagels are bread type bagels, not traditional jewish bagels, but sufficient for bagel sandwiches, which were very tasty.

Cafe Cult – Caprese Bagel – Dreieichenhain, Germany

Cafe Cult – Barley Soup – Dreieichenhain, Germany

9 February, 202511 February, 2025

Lecce, Italy – Florence of the South – Part Two

Though some people choose to ignore basilicas, cathedrals and churches for whatever reason, Lecce is home to more than just a few. It seems that with almost every bend in the street, there is another one waiting to be entered by the faithful or curious. The truth probably is, that most visitors are just that, visitors and tourists.

Lecce’s Basilicas, Cathedrals And Churches

The Basilica di Santa Croce was the first basilica or church we visited, only because that is where we purchased our tickets. Yes, the most significant basilicas and churches in Lecce have a fee, 10€ per person, which gives you two weeks of access to all the places listed on the ticket. As of this writing, the following were accessible^[1]please note: the names may appear slightly different or abbreviated on your ticket:

- - Basilica di Santa Croce
  - Il Duomo – Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant’Oronzo
  - Cripta della Cattedrale
  - Chiesa di San Matteo
  - Chiesa di Santa Chiara
  - Basilica di Santa Croce
  - Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra
  - Museo Sigismondo Castromediano
  - Biblioteca Bernardini – Convitto Palmieri
  - Chiostro Antico Seminario – Palazzo del Seminario

Basilica di Santa Croce

The Basilica di Santa Croce is located on via Umberto I and was the first one church on the list that we visited, only because that is where we purchased our tickets.

Basilica di Santa Croce – Right Aisle – Lecce, Italy

Basilica di Santa Croce – Ceiling – Lecce, Italy

Basilica di Santa Croce – The Crossing and Ceiling – Lecce, Italy

Basilica di Santa Croce – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy

Basilica di Santa Croce – Nave and Altar – Lecce, Italy

Il Duomo – Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant’Oronzo

The Duomo in Lecce is also referred to as the Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant’Oronzo, or the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption and Saint Orontius, or simple the Lecce Cathedral, and is laid out like a proper Latin cathedral.

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – From Piazza Il Duomo – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Bell Tower – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Main Entrance and Facade – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Side Entrance – Lecce, Italy

The impressive nave, crossing and transepts are in the Baroque style and do not resemble other more impressive Gothic Cathedrals you will find in Europe, nonetheless there are things to see!

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Main Entrance – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Nave – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Right Aisle – Lecce, Italy

There a multiple radiating chapels, altar and two rather elegant transepts that one should admire for some time.

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Andrew the Apostle (1687), Right Side – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Charles Borromeo, Right Side – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Radiating Chapel or Altar, Right Side – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Giusto (1656), Right Side – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Our Lady of Sorrows, Right Side – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – John the Baptist (1682), Left Side – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Radiating Chapel or Altar, Left Side – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Side Entrance, Left Side – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – The martyrdom of Saint Giusto (1674), Left Side – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Anthony of Padua (also from 1674), Left Side – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Saint Orontius of Lecce (1671), Right Transept Altar – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – The Immaculate Conception (1689), Left Transept Altar – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – The Crucifixion of Jesus and the Blessed Sacrament (1780), Left Transept – Lecce, Italy

The ceiling is also a marvel. Built from wood, it is intricately woven into a grand geometric pattern for anyone to enjoy.

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Apse and Crossing Ceiling – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Nave Ceiling and Organ – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Nave Ceiling by Crossing – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Ceiling – Lecce, Italy

Cripta della Cattedrale

The Cripta della Cattedrale, or the Crypt of the Cathedral, was restored in 2017 to its present condition. However, archaeological activities are still ongoing and work appears in some areas to have only started. The rest of the crypt, with the exception of a few painting, appears rather sterile.

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Patti entering the Crypt – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Closed Exit, Crypt – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Entry into Crypt – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Sarcophagus, Crypt – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Vaulted Ceiling and Altar, Crypt – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Side Altar, Crypt – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Restored in 2017, Crypt – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Archaeological Artifacts from the Crypt – Lecce, Italy

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant Oronzo – Archaeological Site, Crypt – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di San Matteo

The Chiesa di San Matteo, or Church of Saint Matthew, is small and very ornate and well decorated inside for its size. The marble was unquestionably carved by master craftsmen on top of their game.

Chiesa di San Matteo – Left Wall along the Nave – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di San Matteo – Right Wall along the Nave – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di San Matteo – Ambo or Pulpit – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di San Matteo – Nave – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di San Matteo – Side or Radiating Chapel – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di Santa Chiara

The Chiesa di Santa Chiara , or Church of Saint Claire, is a beautiful Baroque church in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II in Lecce. It has some marvelous side altars honoring some of the important saints from the area.

Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Ceiling – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Altar – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di Santa Chiara – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy

Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra

The Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra, or Sacred Art Museum, has a unique collection of religious artifacts of Catholic origins from the area.

Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Sacred Paintings and Art – Lecce, Italy

Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Saint Oronzo – Lecce, Italy

Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra – Other Sacred Works – Lecce, Italy

Other Basilicas, Cathedrals And Churches

There are a number of other cathedrals and churches worth your attention. Most map applications and a good map from a hotel, B&B or rental may have them marked. As of this writing, none of these cathedrals or churches required any entry fee or donation.

Basilica Del Rosario E Di San Giovanni Battista

The Basilica Del Rosario E Di San Giovanni Battista, or the Basilica of the Rosary and of Saint John the Baptist, was under restoration when we visited. The outside appears to be falling the street and they have erected scaffolding to protect the public. Inside, the entire roof trusses under the crossing were under reconstruction. Aside from that, the inside was rather bare and actually looked like a construction site, so aside from the alters which are still in place, there is not must else to see.

Basilica del Rosario e di San Giovanni Battista – Inside with bare Cupola, Altar – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia

Located directly across from the Roman amphitheater on via Ernesto Alvino and near the Castello Carlo V di Lecce (Castle Charles of Lecce) , is another excellent choice to visit.

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Nave and Altar – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Religious Painting in Foyer – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Intricate Ceiling – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Altar – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Side Altar – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia – Carving on Wood – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa Del Gesu Del Buon Consiglio

Another church that you may enter for no fee is the Chiesa Del Gesu Del Buon Consiglio which is on the Strada Romana, or the Roman street, referred to today as Via Francesco Rubichi. The ornate altar and backdrop of the Apse is worth a stop. This along with the amazing wooden ceiling, these two things are demand some consideration and adoration.

Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Altar – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – A Side Altar – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Side Altar of Mary with Baby Jesus – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Nave Showing Renovations – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa del Gesu del Buon Consiglio – Ceiling – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Provvidenza O Delle Alcantoarine

The Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Provvidenza o Delle Alcantoarine, or the Church of Saint Mary of Providence or the Alcantoarine has a beautiful altar and wonderful Morena Glass chandelier along with a very simple interior.

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Provvidenza o Delle Alcantoarine – Nave and Altar – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Porta O Di San Luigi Gonzaga

The Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Porta O Di San Luigi Gonzaga, or the Church of Saint Mary of the Gate or of San Louis Gonzaga is another free church that you can stop in and admire very near to the Porta Napoli. Simple for its layout, its architecture is developed around a dome, rather than the traditional church layout.

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Porta o di San Luigi Gonzaga – Inside – Lecce, Italy

Chiesa di San Niccolo dei Greci

Unable to enter, we were only able to take a photograph of the facade or outside of the church.

Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo

The small chapel of Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo is located very near to the Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra, or Sacred Art Museum; in fact, it right at the end of that tour.

Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo – Lecce, Italy

Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo – Altar – Lecce, Italy

References[+]

References
↑1	please note: the names may appear slightly different or abbreviated on your ticket

7 February, 20257 February, 2025

Lecce, Italy – Florence of the South – Part One

The second largest city in Apulia is called Lecce and is located on the Salentine Peninsula of Italy. It is rich in Baroque architecture, most of which is in the form of Lecce limestone and is often referred to as the Florence of the South. It one of the oldest settlements in southern Italy, with activity dating back to neolithic times.

Getting There

From Brindisis, or most other larger towns and cities on the east coast of Mezzogiorno, the FrecciaArgento is perhaps to quickest way to arrive. From Brindisi it is a short twenty three minute ride, a bit longer on the regional trains.

The City

Lecce is a typical ancient city which was at one time circumscribed with a protective wall with three main gates. The streets in the old Città Vecchia, or old history city, are narrow and mostly paved with stones.

The government here must be very careful of the city center, since it appears to have mitigated much of the traffic you would normally find in other similar cities of this size, making pedestrian traffic all that more enjoyable.

Interesting balcony supports – Lecce, Italy

Ports, Gates, Columns And Castles

There are numerous ports, gates, columns and obelisks in Lecce. These are spread out all of the city and are well labeled on most maps. The Triumphal Arch, or Porta Napoli, is the largest and one of the three gates to enter the Città Vecchia.

There is also the Porta San Biagio and a smaller one called the Arco di Prato, or Arch of Prato, which is somewhat hidden away within the narrow city streets.

The Obelisk of Terra d’Otranto can be seen close to the Porta Napoli and is rather tall. It was erected in 1822 in honor of one of the rulers of the Two Sicilies. On the other side of town one can find the War Memorial for soldiers lost in war.

Porta di Napoli – Obelisco di Terra d’Otranto – Lecce, Italy

In the Piazza Saint Oronzo you will find the Colonna di Sant’Oronzo, or the Column of Saint Oronzo. It is a tall pedestal with Saint Oronzo on top. The column itself was assembled from pieces of the one that fell apart in Brindisi in the mid sixteenth century, its twin can be found near the port of that city.

The Castello de Carlo V, or Castle of Charles V sits on the eastern edge of the historic city and below the Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens. It is a large structure and tours are offered, all of which are guided, so you cannot tour the grounds unaccompanied. A short walk from there you will the public park or gardens, which is always a good stop to rest your feet after a few hours of walking.

Castello Carlo V di Lecce – Lecce, Italy

Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens – Lecce, Italy

Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens – Fountain – Lecce, Italy

Roman Ruins

Lecce has in its old historic city not one, but two Roman amphitheaters. Unfortunately for us, both were being restored while we visited and photography was very difficult in both cases.

Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy

Roman Amphitheater, 2nd Century – Lecce, Italy

Where We Stayed

For the second time on this trip we have booked a Bed and Breakfast. I still cannot say I am fan, but there are times when alternatives to hotels may make a better fit. However, we only commit to such alternatives directly and after thorough research.

L’Orangerie d’Epoque

We stayed at a Bed and Breakfast called L’Orangerie d’Epoque on Viale Francesco Lo Re near the Porta San Biagio. A rather large building with a central portico that appears to have one owner.

Our room was on the ground floor with its own entrance to the portico. The entryway has a beautiful mosaic tiled floor, reminiscent of ancient Rome or Pompeii.

L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Entrance Mosaic – Lecce, Italy

L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Entrance Mosaic and Door – Lecce, Italy

The room was spacious, with a fireplace and split up into almost four equal parts. There was a large dining area by the entrance that flowed into a living room with several couches.

L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Our Room – Lecce, Italy

On the other side, there was another area with a television, breakfast table and then a bed with a desk for writing.

Restaurants

La Cucina di Mamma Elvira

This small restaurant has good food and wine at fairly reasonable prices. We actually went there late for lunch, around 14:40 and they still took our order and served us.

The service was very good and the menu had a decent choice of both local cuisine and other more general Italian items to chose.

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Front of the Building – Lecce, Italy

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Entrance, Cassa and Wines – Lecce, Italy

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Wines – Lecce, Italy

I ordered the Eggplant Polpette in Ragu Sauce with Ricotta Cheese, an Insalata Mista (mixed salad) and the Orecchiette with re-milled Semolina with Scottona Red Ragu and Patti ordered the Ciceri and Tria Pasta and shared my Polpette. All the dishes were very good. The wine was Negroamaro from the region and it was very good, served by the glass. The desserts you can see below and the espresso was also very good, not bitter at all.

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Eggplant Polpette in Ragu Sauce with Ricotta Cheese – Lecce, Italy

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Insalata Mista – Lecce, Italy

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Ciceri and Tria Pasta – Lecce, Italy

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Orecchiette with re-milled Semolina with Scottona Red Ragu – Lecce, Italy

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Salted Pistachio Semifreddo with Chocolate Crunchy, Martucci Spumone Hazelnut Chocolate – Lecce, Italy

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Espresso and Molinari Sambuca – Lecce, Italy

Miro Wine And Lounge

We stopped here for a drink and decided on a quick bite to eat, since we were both getting hungry and it was only a little passed eleven. We were actually surprised they were serving lunch.

Miro Wine and Lounge – Erick outside waiting for soup with a glass of red – Lecce, Italy

While we waited, I ordered a glass of Negroamaro from Puglia, a very nice wine that reminds me of Barbera. They had a nice bean and cereal soup on the menu that Patti and I decided to try and it was magnificent.

Miro Wine and Lounge – Bean and Cereal soup with Croutons – Lecce, Italy

Tranquillo

The restaurant Tranquillo is a more modern restaurant with two locations in Lecce, we chose the one located at Piazza Sant’Oronzo. The service and food were very good.

We dined late again at around 14:30, opting for a larger lunch and skipping dinner. We find this preferrable to eating again late in the evening and going to bed with a full stomach, something that we find does not lend itself to a good night sleep as we get older. I ordered the Apulian Bombette with Cheese on greens with a side order of Potato al Forno and Cicorie (Chickory), and Patti ordered the Cicorie on Pureed Fava Beans.