Rapallo – Tiny, But Rich In History

Part One

The tiny seaside city of Rapallo is remarkable in many ways, as a port, as a main stop on the Pisa to Genova train line, as a city that has many ancient Roman, Etruscan and other historical features, and as a tourist point of interest; where one can just relax and enjoy the sun while eating great Ligurian food.

We began our stay checking into the four star Hotel Astoria Rapallo along via Antonio Gramsci. Built in 1903 in the Victorian Liberty Villa style, it is well taken care of by its current owner and management couple, who cheerfully greeted us as we entered. The views from our seaside room were what we imagined, as were the cooling breezes that ran through the room when we open all the windows, clean and refreshing. Even though they come equipped with air-conditioning, it is always nice to open the windows to get fresh air, especially in the early morning.

Rapallo is an active port for fishing, leisure and travel (via ferry or other means to destinations along the coast.) Unfortunately, while we were here, the ferries were still not running, due to the restrictions in place on account of the virus. So, we were not able to visit Portofino as we had hoped.

The Historic Center

As with all older cities of any size, Rapallo has a historic center, albeit small, which one can wander through to shop or to catch a meal.

Basilica of Saints Gervasius and Protasius

Some of the main attractions here include the church, or Basilica of the Saints Gervasius and Protasius.

The Porta della Saline

The only remaining gate of the ancient city walls is the Port of Salt, or Porta della Saline.

There are of course plenty of narrow and inviting streets in the old town that suck you in with their capillory action.

Hannibals Bridge

Built in the second century, the ancient bridge from the Roman period, called Hannibals Bridge, can still be seen and enjoyed. Though cordoned off to travel, it still is an imposing and impressive sign of the Roman’s architectural and construction abilities.

The Castle Of Rapallo

Anyone looking out into the gulf will sooner or later notice the small castle sitting off the coast directly in front of the traffic circle (or roundabout), Piazza Giovanni Battista Pastene. This is the Castello di Rapallo, an old castle built in the 1550s in response to attacks by Turkish pirates. It is still in fairly good shape, but while we where there, temporarily closed due to Covid restrictions and construction in the vicinity.

The Brotherhood Of White

A Brotherhood of White, also known as the Great White Brotherhood and the Universal White Brotherhood, has a sect or presence in the city. In a part of the historic center, a structure exists that apparently houses this old eighteenth century order of people of enlightenment. The signs are there, if you are looking for them.

The Gulf Of Tigullio

The Gulf of Tigullio is very large and extends from Portofino to Zoagli. It is always nice to walk along the Port of Rapallo in the early morning or in the evenings to enjoy the fresh air and beauty of the gulf itself. There are many inlets, bays and coves that one can explore along the way, some with road access, others a bit more difficult.

Rapallo To Montallegro

The cable car from Rapallo to Montallegro and back is a treat. Though some might consider it an expensive treat, at 8€ a piece for a round trip; we thought it a fair deal. The views in and of themselves are more than worth the ticket price. There is not only a basilica waiting for you at the top, but also a restaurant with amazing views of the city and surrounding countryside.

Sanctuary Of Our Lady Of Montallegro

The sanctuary at the top of the hill in Montallegro is actually a basilica. Called the Basilica and Sanctuary of our Lady of Montallegro, it is both impressive and still functioning.

Basilica and Sactuary of Our Lady of Montallegro – Inside

Basilica and Sactuary of Our Lady of Montallegro

Casa del Pellegrino

There is a cafe, bar and restaurant some ten or so minutes walk from behind the basilica. It is not only the start of one of the hiking trails that wanders through the area, but also provides an excellent view of the gulf and port of Rapallo. Since the cable car runs every thirty minutes or so, we took advantage and spent an hour here, taking on refreshment and admiring the view while enjoying the cool air coming up the mountain slopes.

Cable Car From Montallegro Back To Rapallo

Here are a few videos of our trip back down the mountain. If you are ever there, a word of caution for those with any fear of heights, you will be suspended very high in the air. It may not be for everyone, unless you maintain your look inside the car on ascent and likewise on the return.

Part One

Part Two

14 October, 2019

England – Winchester

Close to a two-hour bus ride to the west-southwest of London is Winchester, just a mere twenty-minute train ride from the coast and Southampton.

20191013_112459 — NationalExpress Bus 032 – Winchester, England

Though we attempted to take a train to this marvelous little town, we ended up scheduling a bus ride through NationalExpress, which provided a more direct albeit one more subject to the vagaries of traffic.

Winchester Cathedral

20191013_163146 — Winchester Cathedral – The Impressive Front Entrance

Just behind our hotel, the Mecure, stands Winchester Cathedral. Because it is no longer funded by the government, there is usually an entrance fee of 9£. But, if you go on a Sunday evening, when it is open for mass you may be lucky enough to enter for free.

As made famous by Frank Sinatra and other pop artist of the 60’s and 70’s, everyone my age probably knows the song “Winchester Cathedral”. Well here is the real thing and an impressive structure it is, along with its history.

Winchester – The Town

The town proper is a very nice place, with its own central shopping pedestrian street with plenty of trendy shops, cafés and restaurants.

The Eclipse Inn – A Very Tiny Place Inside

Winchester – Cathedral Gates by Dome Alley

Above one can see some additional photographs as we took them walking through this lovely little town.

Winchester City Museum

A free and very informative little museum sits almost directly in the middle of town, just a stone’s throw from The Eclipse Inn, called the City Museum.

There are numerous exhibits which starts on the top floor with the Roman Period of Winchester, formerly known to the Romans as Venta Belgarum around 70 A.D. This is followed on second floor (that would be the first floor for Europeans) with an entire section on the Norman Period. And finally on the ground floor with contemporary history.

The Great Hall

20191014_131129 — The Great Hall – Entrance

The Great Hall is a large 13th century hall that features King Arthur’s Round Table. It is the only building remaining of the Winchester Castle that used to reside here and has been turned into a museum.

The Great Hall – King Arthur’s Round Table

The Great Hall – Stained Glass Added At A Later Date

The City Mill

The Winchester City Mill is a restored and fully working water-mill that sits over the river Itchen.

20191014_151623 — Winchester City Mill – Water Coming Out of the Front of the Mill

It costs 6£ to enter and has audio-visual as well as hands-on displays for children. It is a one floor museum with access to the lower section in order to see the actual mill-wheel and transfer gears.

The museum also has a nice little park area where you can sit and enjoy the day, if it’s not raining!

City Mill – Example of How the Power is Transferred

City Mill – Down to the Millrace and the Wheel

City Mill – Where the River Itchen goes in

City Mill – The River Itchen before it reaches the Mill

If you actually watch the entire video presentation you will find it most informative, since it goes into the mill itself, along with its historic ups and downs. The building was even used at one time as a hostel for cyclists and hikers!

3 August, 20194 August, 2019

Susa – Old Roman Appeal

If one were to take Trenitalia from Turin Porta Nuova west to its logical end, one would find Susa, a quiet little alpine town built by the Gauls sometime before the Roman Empire. Excited? You should be, we were and were not disappointed.

We entered the town via the train station, an hour’s ride from our main train station in Turin. As we traveled down the Susa Valley, somewhere starting around Avigliana, we slowly became surrounded by hills, then mountains.

TurinPN_Susa_Aug_2019 — Train route down the Susa Valley

Upon reaching Susa, we were encircled by Graian Alps. , especially Rocciamelone which sits just due north of the town.

Susa_OverlookParkAugusto_Aug_2019 — Overlooking the *Park of Augusto*, with *Rocciamelone* towering overhead

We had arrived around eleven o’clock in the morning, ready for some serious tourist trekking of the town and a peak at the food festival they were having this weekend.

and before the massive food fight (tongue in cheek)

Gauls and Romans

The town, like many very old towns in Italy, enjoys a rich history dating back before and including the Roman Empire. When the Roman Empire ascended into existence after the Roman Republic, Susa became a voluntary part of it in the 1st century BC.

Susa_CesareAugustusArch_Aug_2019 — Ceasar Augustus Arch, Susa, 8 BC

The arch was positioned along the Via Cozia (today known as Via delle Gallie), the road that led to Gaul. Its age and architecture are impressive, it is also amazing that it has stood in such good shape for over two thousand years!

Susa_RomanAqueduct_Aug3_2019 — Roman Aqueduct Terme Graziane and Gates

The aqueduct above is impressive itself and was built to feed water to baths somewhere, however it actually disguises a dirty little Gaul secret. The wall that connects to it on the left masks a set of holes carved into the rocks that were supposedly used to collect blood from Gaul sacrifices. Nice right? Those Gauls knew how to party.

Susa_Patti_CivicMuseumGrounds_Aug_2019 — Patti on the grounds of the Civic Museum for Roman History

Susa Around Town

If you are not so inclined to delve deeply into the Roman history of the area, it is easy enough just to enjoy the town itself.

Susa_CathedralofSanGiusto_Aug_2019 — Cathedral of San Giusto

There is the old Cathedral of San Giusto, which was built in Romanesque style.

Susa_LookingTowards_France_Aug_2019 — Dora Riparia’s Glacial Blue color in Susa

The Dora Riparia makes its trek through Susa carrying its aquamarine glacial waters. It eventually is joined by other tributaries, especially the Cenischia, before it reaches Turin and joins the river Po.

Susa_ComuneDeSusa_Aug_2019 — Susa Torre, Comune di Susa

The Torre in Susa, a building obviously repurposed over the years.

Susa_PiazzaDellaTorre_Aug_2019 — Piazza della Torre, Susa

Pizzeria Ristorante Italia

Finally after a few hours enjoying the absolutely gorgeous weather and amazing scenery it was time for something to eat. We decided the street food we saw was not going to slake our thirst nor satiate us, so we ventured away from the center of town, which we also found much too noisy (they do allow cars to flow through it). From the Piazza Trento we walked down the via Francesco Rolando and found an obvious favorite, Pizzeria Ristorante Italia.

The restaurant was actually quite busy; the photograph above being taken before the mass of locals entered in small groups to eat their lunch. Many of which ordered the blue plate and much to our chagrin got served before ourselves. Oh well, it wasn’t like we were in a hurry, being retired is so nice…

Susa A Great One Day Adventure

We had a marvelous time in Susa and want to come back in the Fall and perhaps Winter to enjoy the change of season and their Christmas market respectively. So we encourage you, if you are ever in the vicinity of Turin, do not dismiss Susa as a possible day trip. Check their calendar first, just in case they have something special going on. Even if they don’t, a one day trip just for the history will be worth it. Until then, here are some extra photographs of Susa for your enjoyment.