From Inverness we headed to Aberdeen, which is on the eastern coast of the country. Along the way we took a minor detour to visit one of the famous distilleries in the area, The Mcallan.
The Mcallan distillery visitor center has been designed by a well-known architect and completely modernized. Though the building itself blends well with the country-side, the walkway seems a bit odd, made out of shiny marble instead of perhaps a nice sandstone to match better. I suppose they we going for the rich look in the end, instead of a more environmental one.
Aberdeen
The town itself is rather unremarkable, being noted for its grey granite appearance, it’s no wonder it mixes well with the cold, damp weather and Scotch whiskey.
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There are exceptions of course, some of the side streets are rather nice to stroll down, although you will never get that quaint, old, medieval look and feel.
Our Hotel – The MarinerThe Mariner Restaurant
We did not venture far to eat, except for lunch, since town was a good fifteen to twenty-minute walk from our hotel. So, we ate our lunches out and each night at the hotel, which offered a good mix of fare. All in all, the accommodations were more than adequate, with only some minor inconveniences (e.g. no elevator, but it was only one floor). They do provide a generous parking lot and free parking.
The Dunnottar Castle
Unfortunately, I have to say, the high point of our trip to Aberdeen was on our departure and visit to the Castle of Dunnottar. Please enjoy the un-captioned slide show below of our visit there.
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I will not say much else about it, other than the views are quite stunning, if you happen to have good weather. You are free to walk the grounds and there are hiking trails nearby and into the town of Stonehaven. The castle itself is worth the 7£ entry fee, since it is quite extensive and very well-kept.
And to top it off, a small video of the tempestuous North Sea.
A three-hour drive from Edinburgh will bring you through the center of Scotland and The Highlands, here at the end of Loch Ness sits Inverness.
Inverness – Ness Bridge
Inverness
The city itself in October has a strange feel about it, reminiscent of an upstate New York town, think Hudson or Catskill. Though statistics say otherwise, one would think it in decline, or an area that perhaps saw better times.
The people on the other hand are very friendly and seem very comfortable with tourists.
Inverness – Our Hotel – The Glenmoriston
Inverness – The River Ness
Inverness – Ness Bridge
Inverness – At Night
Loch Ness
In order to see the Loch Ness from Inverness you have to travel 15 to 30 minutes southwest on the A82. Along this road there are several places to stop and take photographs.
Loch Ness – Erick
A bit further on you will find the lazy hamlet of Drumnadrochit and the CastleUrquhart sitting on the lake.
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To enter the castle grounds it cost us around 10£ per person, with a senior discount (60+). A fair price for the ruins and direct access to the lake. And yes, there be NO monsters here!
Loch Ness Centre & Exhibition
This is an exhibit on the scientific evidence and history around the Loch Ness monster. Well worth the money, I found it informative and fairly well done. You can even read all the newspaper articles about the hoax or in some cases what may be called a misunderstanding of what people think they saw.
We arrived last evening in Scotland, traveling from Winchester through London’s Kings Cross station to Edinburgh’s Waverly station, counting on (according to a well-known phone app) an easy twelve-minute walk to our hotel. And what did we immediately face upon exiting the train station? Steps, hills and a steep ascent!
A Close in Edinburgh
Edinburgh is hilly, very hilly. In fact, one may say almost bizarre in its construction. It is as though the city has two levels, one for the upper crust, one for the lower crust. And they only mix via a series of stairways, inclines and closes (apparently an old Scottish term to small back alleyways with or without stairs that can be closed off or guarded after dark).
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Amazing as this all sounds, Edinburgh does have some interesting things to see and experience. Musicians, for example. I am not sure if they are actual Scots, but they are dressed up in full garb and playing the bagpipes.
One can also say the city is a bit blighted, as one may call it, by the plague of construction and reconstruction going on all over the United Kingdom. It would seem that the government here has seen fit that some things should not fall down. It does happen to mess up one’s attempt at a good photograph though!
More Construction and Reconstruction – Enjoy
The Edinburgh Castle
Built on a rocky precipice, or crag, and overlooking the city is the Edinburgh Castle.
Edinburgh Castle
It is adjoined to the city via the Royal Mile, a street with shops, monuments and other stores that lead back to the ancient city.
Castle Overview – Towards City
The castle is a great thing to see and has many rooms and other historical artifacts that one can enjoy. Notwithstanding, the views of Edinburgh and the harbor are magnificent.
Castle Overview – Toward Harbor
Many of the exhibits displayed in the castle have, of course, a military overtone. Which unfortunately in many cultures, clouds and even colors our view of the past. In some cases making it more romantic than it actually was.
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The above slide show is provided to give some appreciation to the myriad of military displays and exhibits one can find in the castle.
St. Margarets Church
St. Margarets Church – The Altar
St. Margarets Church
One jewel amongst all this military might is Saint Margaret’s Church. A quaint little abode which eventually fell within the confines of the castle. It is the oldest structure within the surrounding area and is still used today, although it had many uses in the past.
Greyfriars
If you are looking for more churches or cemeteries, there is Greyfriars. Not far from our hotel, it has some lovely grounds on which you can walk, if you are looking for that nice quiet afternoon stroll.
Greyfriars Bobby
Right across the street from Greyfriars, is the bar and restaurant, Greyfriars Bobby. Named after the dog who ostensibly stood over his master’s grave for fourteen years after he died, the restaurant offers typical Scottish fare, as well as food for tourist (e.g. hamburgers, fries, etc.)
Greyfriars Bobby
Greyfriars Bobby – Inside
Greyfriars Bobby – Dessert Menu
Greyfriars Bobby – Heart Attack Dessert – 12 yr. Mcallans Double Cask Gold with Cranachan (Typical Scottish Dessert)
Greyfriars Bobby – Patti
Greyfriars Bobby – Erick
History Walks and Ghost Tours
Mercat Tours
Mercat Tours holds a fairly good tour of the underground caverns, called History Walk and Ghost Tours.
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Though a bit long and having questionable facts, well we are talking ghosts, it was fairly well presented, entertaining and reasonably priced at 13£ per person. And although it was a bit dark down there, we had a good time anyways.
The Real Mary King’s Close Tour
Again, a tour that takes not only below, but above-grounds as well, to show the terrible living conditions in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. Unfortunately, this tour does not allow for photographs, its history is a bit more vague, but it does have a more elaborate Close tour layout and exhibits. If I were to pick one, I would probably pick this one, though it definitely has a more obvious touristy quality to it. The ticket will run you around 16 to 20£ per person, children are less.
The Edinburgh City Museum
This museum is free, except for what ever special exhibits they are having at the time. There is a special floor and area for these and the tickets can be purchased on the ground floor.
City Museum – Ground Floor – Grand Atrium
We found the first and third floors to be the most informative. Favoring the Life Sciences, Astronomy and Scottish history above the other areas.
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For a rainy afternoon, and there are many in Scotland, a very good choice to learn something and stay dry. It’s actually very good for families since there are numerous hands-on exhibits for children to interact with and learn.
Tomorrow it’s off again, this time to Inverness. We are just hoping for a moderation in the weather for good travels. Till then, later..!
Close to a two-hour bus ride to the west-southwest of London is Winchester, just a mere twenty-minute train ride from the coast and Southampton.
NationalExpress Bus 032 – Winchester, England
Though we attempted to take a train to this marvelous little town, we ended up scheduling a bus ride through NationalExpress, which provided a more direct albeit one more subject to the vagaries of traffic.
Winchester Cathedral
Winchester Cathedral – The Impressive Front Entrance
Just behind our hotel, the Mecure, stands Winchester Cathedral. Because it is no longer funded by the government, there is usually an entrance fee of 9£. But, if you go on a Sunday evening, when it is open for mass you may be lucky enough to enter for free.
Winchester Cathedral
Winchester Cathedral
Winchester Cathedral
As made famous by Frank Sinatra and other pop artist of the 60’s and 70’s, everyone my age probably knows the song “Winchester Cathedral”. Well here is the real thing and an impressive structure it is, along with its history.
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Winchester – The Town
Winchester – Market Lane
Winchester – Market Lane
The town proper is a very nice place, with its own central shopping pedestrian street with plenty of trendy shops, cafés and restaurants.
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Above one can see some additional photographs as we took them walking through this lovely little town.
Winchester City Museum
The City Museum
A free and very informative little museum sits almost directly in the middle of town, just a stone’s throw from The Eclipse Inn, called the City Museum.
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There are numerous exhibits which starts on the top floor with the Roman Period of Winchester, formerly known to the Romans as Venta Belgarum around 70 A.D. This is followed on second floor (that would be the first floor for Europeans) with an entire section on the Norman Period. And finally on the ground floor with contemporary history.
The Great Hall
The Great Hall – Entrance
The Great Hall is a large 13th century hall that features King Arthur’s Round Table. It is the only building remaining of the Winchester Castle that used to reside here and has been turned into a museum.
The Great Hall
The Great Hall – King Arthur’s Round Table
The Great Hall – Stained Glass Added At A Later Date
The Great Hall
The City Mill
The Winchester City Mill is a restored and fully working water-mill that sits over the river Itchen.
Winchester City Mill – Water Coming Out of the Front of the Mill
It costs 6£ to enter and has audio-visual as well as hands-on displays for children. It is a one floor museum with access to the lower section in order to see the actual mill-wheel and transfer gears.
The museum also has a nice little park area where you can sit and enjoy the day, if it’s not raining!
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If you actually watch the entire video presentation you will find it most informative, since it goes into the mill itself, along with its historic ups and downs. The building was even used at one time as a hostel for cyclists and hikers!
A short trip by train just outside and to the west of Turin lies Avigliana, a medieval town some would call a small city. However, regardless of its size, it is charming nonetheless.
Turin Porta Nouva to Avigliana via TrenitaliaAvigliana Train Station
We arrived on a picture perfect day with only a few clouds hovering over the mountains to the North and West and no threat of rain whatsoever in sight.
Abbey Sacra di San Michele
As soon as we left the train station we could see the Abbey Sacra di San Michele perched on the Monte Pirchiriano to the West. From Avigliana this is also an easy sight to visit if you are traveling by car. However, even if you are traveling by train and on foot it is also possible if you have the time. It lies some ten kilometers from town and has history that dates back to the tenth century. Our trip centered more on the historic part of town and visiting the lakes, which promised to be magnificent.
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Our ascent to the town was along a more or less direct route from the train station. Instead of following the signs near the train station, we walked via San Giuseppe to via Porta Ferrata. Once you reach the fork in the road take the right branch which will bring you to the Church of Santa Croce and an uncommon overlook of the Susa Valley. Coming back down and continuing a bit further we came across the Porta Ferrata, an old medieval gate that dates back to the 13th century.
Panoramic view from the overlook at the Church of Santa Croce
We had now spent a little over an hour walking through the narrow streets and alleys, exploring those little areas that afforded us access. From the spine of the hill on which the town sits, one can get some great photographs of the mountains, including historic landmarks.
From via Dell’Orologio the Torre dell’Orologio and cupola of the Parrochia SS. Giovanni e Pietro
From the via dell’Orologio we quickly descended the historic center of town to make our way to the lakes. (It is best before you leave to download any maps as well as familiarize yourself with your overall route. We found cellular service in the town a bit spotty, so if you are addicted to travel-by-phone only, you may run into difficulties and feel lost at times.) However, if you are lucky enough to find the main road, via Garibaldi that leads to Corso Laghi, you are all set; the maar lakes are South on that road.
Lago Grande di Avigliana
After about a fifteen or twenty-minute walk we came across the first lake, Lago Grande, meaning “large lake”. The term maar comes from the fact that both of these lakes are essentially volcanic craters. The volcanoes are of course extinct, but since the lava domes they once had have collapsed, the depressions have filled with water making these amazing lakes. The green tint comes from a mixture of mountain glacier runoff and algae. However they got there, on a beautiful sunny day they are just amazing to see and enjoy.
Residents must enjoy the peace the lakes and mountains offer them since it appears that no motorboats are allowed on the them, only sailboats and others that require human power. We also witnessed several people swimming the width of the large lake which must be close to one kilometer. There is also a diving school on the East bank of the large lake where you can take diving lessons. Though we were within a short walk to the smaller lake we decided not to go, We had both walked over three miles and were starting to get a bit tired.
Patti enjoying the weather and a rest from all of our walking
The stroll back into town took another twenty or so minutes and we were now both hungry and looking for something to eat. We had thought about eating somewhere along the lake, but none of the restaurant menus there appealed to us. So we headed for the main piazza in town, piazza Conte Rosso.
Chiesa de San Giovanni
Retracing our route back to the piazza and up the long street stairs of via Garibaldi we see the Church of San Giovanni from under the Porta San Giovanni. The church stands there almost confused that it is no longer held up on the one side by a building that most likely once stood there. It most likely had been torn down centuries ago, but the scars from its lost companion are still obvious in the relentless sun. The facade, which one must say is somewhat unique, dates back to the 14th and 15th centuries and seems to borrow from several styles.
Piazza Conte Rosso
Piazza Conte Rosso is a working piazza, with cars co-mingling with pedestrians. From here one can see the ruins of the old castle on the hill, Castello di Avigliana. There are also several caffés and bars here, as well as the restaurant, San Michele.
Ristorante San Michele
The food at Ristorante San Michele is very good and moderately expensive. There are daily specials and several dishes that are unique to the Piedmont. They also serve bio wine which is environmentally friendly, from the Piedmont, quite unique and is very, very good!
If you are in the area of the Piedmont or Turin and have a few hours or a day extra, then Avigliana might be a very relaxing choice for you. There is definitely enough to see and do, you can rent boats on the lakes and swim, and there is more than enough to eat and drink.
After reading several reviews and actually knowing someone in the states that has the last name Rivoli, my wife and I decided on a road trip today to that namesake.
Entering Rivoli
From Turin‘s Porta Nuova (Turin‘s main train station) we traveled using Trenitalia‘s service to Susa (not to be confused with Porta Susa in Turin), getting off at Alpignano. Then after going under the railroad tracks using the tunnel, since we were disembarked on track 2, we took the GTT 1432 bus from Piazza Tulio Robotti for eight to ten minutes to Rivoli at Fermata 13264 on via Don Murialdo.
The narrow streets of Rivoli
Once you step off the bus and find your bearings you begin to realize that you need to ascend a hill, your ultimate destination being the old Savoia Castel and new Museum of Contemporary Art. Passing many shops and colorful buildings, some needing ownerships, others busy with activity, you slowing ascend the via Fratelli Piol, or main street.
The city itself is actually very well-kept, like other Piedmontese, they obviously have some pride in keeping their community clean. I admit it must be a struggle for them as well as other communities, from what we’ve seen, but this seems not to deter them. The Europeans as a whole still seem to feel they have a right to just pollute and it will not affect them (I will write another article, specific to Turin, on this later), even though they vote and their government seems to do otherwise.
Chiese Santa Croce
After some walking, browsing and curious on looking into shop windows, one will arrive at a fork in the road and clearly see the Church of Santa Croce. A cinnamon and stout marvel of Christianity. With a mural of Christ with his cross above the large wooden doors, but no longer owned by the Catholic Church, but rather the Res Publica – Galleria d’Arte Democratica for art exhibitions and shows.
The Old Grande Ristorante del Castello
Upon reaching the top of the hill you arrive at the old castle, or the Castello di Rivoli. Built by the Savoia and houses the Museum of Contemporary Art it is well worth the travel and the climb.
It commands an amazing view of the surrounding area as well as Turin and other parts of Rivoli itself.
A view of Turin afar, as viewed on a smoggy day from the Castle
When one faces the East North East one also enjoys an amazing view of the Alps too!
A semi-clear view of the Alps, yes they are close here
I will admit the day was somewhat warm and humid.
Another view with Chiesa Collegiata di Santa Maria della Stella
However, compared to North Carolina standards, at fifty percent humidity, it was not totally intolerable. We would therefore call this a warm day, though uncomfortable. Some other sites on our descent included the following.
It was time to eat, being both hungry and a bit dehydrated from the climb, we searched for a place that served both simple but filling fare. We found the Caffé Roxy where we were able to order what we call in the States, flat breads with salami, drinks (both wine and water) as well as dessert, caffe and aperitif, all for 24€. Not a bad deal and the service was excellent as well!
Caffé Roxy on the way up to the castle
After a full stomach and enough shopping we had had our fill of Rivoli and it was time to leave. This is where we caution everyone about the deplorable state of some of the fermatas or bus stops in Italy, you just cannot read some of them or they are CLEARLY WRONG. Pay attention to the numbers that are marked on them. The information that your internet application has is probably correct. Also, do NOT have an expectation of bus color or that you will see a bus number when it approaches, ALWAYS ASK THE DRIVER, especially when you are in an out-of-the-way place. It will make your life so much easier, though a bit uncomfortable (since you will have to use your limited Italian.)
Tickets for Two
After crossing Corso Francia multiple times between Fermata 2794 and 2823and feeling like fools, we finally caught the bus we wanted for Alpignano, albeit on the wrong side of that street.
We finally arrived at the station with plenty of time to spare, stamped our tickets, and waited for our train, which of course was five minutes late – but, it did arrive! Buona giornata!
A belated append for Mother’s Day, spent at Valentino Park. Patti and I decided yesterday on taking a nice leisurely stroll down to the medieval village, approximately a mile walk from our apartment.
Valentino Park, Turin
The park itself is pretty expansive. It contains many paved paths with some roads going through it. Several boating club houses dot the river bank. The river Po borders it along its eastern side where on this day it was hosting a boating race regatta.
Patti outside the Medieval Village
Medieval Village
The village was built in the 19th century as an authentic reproduction of an actual medieval village prior to its demise.
Entry to the Village
There are of course several shops and demonstration stations. There are some light tourist things for sale, including the ever popular Harry Potter paraphernalia, wands and such.
Inside the Village
The buildings are characteristically very close together and include the customary trenches for waste water, which were thoughtfully dry.
Interesting Paintings
The colonnades have the traditional colors of the builders and there are several paintings or remarks in the stones.
An old hand operated Printing Press
There is even an old printing press with demonstrations strategically placed behind a sample of the wall mosaics of that time. The only thing missing here are medieval people, their animals and probably all the smells that go along with them. ?
Architectural details
We ended our Mother’s Day walk by visiting the arboretum or Giardino Roccioso.
After a beautiful evening in Heidelberg, Zeus decided it was time to change the weather on us.
Heidelberg in the evening
Hence, when we woke up that morning, we were greeted by a driving rain. Nothing like the downpours we would get in North Carolina, but a steady, bone-chilling, 48 degree shower on our vacation (we’re calling it that now, not to feel too much like retirees.) That’s not too bad, the last time I visited, it was in the 20s and snowing!
Hans Thoma Platz the stop closest to our Gasthof
After our hotel hostess provided breakfast it was off to the Altstadt and the Heidelberg Castle.
The Altstadt
The Altstadt of Heidelberg is now essentially an outside mall, commercialized with all the latest trendy stores from all over the world. Its nothing the way I remember it from years ago.
The beginning of the Hauptstrasse, Heidelberg
Some of the restaurants look the same but there are many new coffee shops, cafes and contemporary stores that fill the Hauptstrasse. It begins with the Kaufhaus right after exiting Bismarkplatz.
Along the Hauptstrasse
And after walking over a kilometer or so, ends with a church or two or three and the castle.
The Heidelberg Castle
The Heidelberger Schloss, or castle, sits atop the hill overlooking the city.
Heidelberger Schloss atop hill
From the Hauptstrasse it is a formidable structure. There are two ways to visit the castle. One may walk the serpentine street that has a number of switch-backs.
Its raining and I’m cold, two tickets for the train please!
Or one can pay the €8.00 fee to ride the funicular train up the hill which is better choice when it’s raining out, plus admission to the castle is included.
The castle looking towards the pharmacy museum
The castle contains the usual large room for the storage of goods in case the town was attacked. It also houses a pharmacy museum and the largest wooden wine cask in the world, able to hold 58,000 gallons of wine.
The largest wine cask in the world
The cask was used back in the day when the town produced its own wine label.
The smaller cask holding 300 liters of wine
Recently, an effort was started by a local vitner, Jörg Clauer, to restart the production of a Heidelberg labeled wine using the smaller cask that is shown in the ante chamber to the largest one. In it, they have stored 300 liters of Pinot Noir, reviving the wine making tradition here.
Heidelberg Overlook
From the castle one gets a great view of Heidelberg and its environs.
Heidelberg looking west
To the west and north looking toward Weststadt and Bergheim.
The old Heidelberg bridge
Then the old Heidelberg bridge and the last part of the Altstadt.
Heidelberg is still a beautiful little city, full of shopping and some interesting things to see. Though I was a bit disappointed in some of the old shops that are missing, I still think it is worth a look, especially for those who have not experienced its charm yet.
Weinwirtschaft Alt Hendesse
Our second and last night here we ate at the Alt Hendesse restaurant which ostensibly is a Weinwirtschaft.
Weinwirtschaft Alt Hendesse
It could be the establishment used to be part of some wine production at some point in their history. But there is no evidence of any label or production by them on their current wine list.
Patti and Ericka waiting for their Aubergine dishes
However, the food was very good and satisfying. I can only say that for the short time we were there between 8 and 9 PM they were turning people away constantly. They actually somehow made room for us shuffling some locals around to other tables.
Given the fact that it is perched atop a rocky outcropping with sheer drops on three of its four sides, the castle is indeed a sight to see.
King Ludwig’s II retreat from the world
The castle Neuschwanstein was actually called Hohenschwanstein a hundred or more years ago until King Ludwig II of Bavaria switched the names of the two.
The surrounding area from this castle’s aerie is breathtaking, especially when looking at the German and Austrian Alps toward Schwangau. Schwangau is the larger and more proper town of the two which includes Hohenschwangua, the latter of which essentially acts as a tourist trap and jumping off point for the 1.5 kilometer trek up to the castle.
Overlook with Schwangau and the Alps
Unfortunately, you cannot take photographs inside the castle and the face of the entrance and some rooms were under renovations while we were there. However, though the tour is kind of short, around 20 minutes, it is still worth it.
From Hohenschwangau
There is also a path to a footbridge that affords a better view and perspective for photographs. Unfortunately, it was jammed with other tourists who instead of climbing the hill took the bus up and were dropped off right in front of the path to it, creating a long line for which we lacked the time to stand in due to our castle tour time slot.
Hohenschwanstein castle
The other prominent landmark in the area is Hohenschwanstein which is where King Ludwig grew up. Less ostentatious and functional, right down to its painted walls, it remains more of a curiousity than a tourist destination. The history of Ludwig’s upbringing is very interesting and his separation from his father during his childhood is shown in the very design of this castle. Whereby the children lived on the right side as shown in the photograph above, and the King ruled on the left.
Ericka, Tristan and Patti along the Alpsee
Luckily the spring weather was great and made for a most enjoyable day.
