Syracuse

Syracuse, or Siracusa as you will find it readily marked throughout the island, is one of the first places of historic significance within Italy. It was inhabited in ancient times and finally settled by the Greeks in the early eight century BCE.

The original settlement of the Greeks was on the small island of Ortigia, which still contains several historical and archaeological artifacts from the Greek and Roman periods. See the Ortigia section below for more on that part of the commune and city.

Church of San Tommaso at the Pantheon – Siracuse, Sicily

Via Dei Candelai – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily

Syracuse is divided into three main parts, Ortigia the island and original Greek settlement, Santa Lucia along the coast and the location of our hotel, and the Neapolis the location of the major Greek and Roman ruins .

If you are at this point wondering what ash and puppets have to do with Sicily, and in particular Syracuse, read further. Otherwise, just rest assured it has everything to do with being on this quaint and wonderful island.

Note: Purchase the Museum and Park Combination Ticket at 18€. If you purchase them separately, it will cost you an extra 8€. The combination ticket will get you into both, with money left over for a light lunch.

Archaeological Museum

The Archaeological Museum is an impressive collection of ancient, Greek and Roman artifacts dating back to the seventh and eighth centuries.

The museum’s interior – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

Entrance to one of its sections – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

Geology – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

The museum handles each time period in a sequential fashion, starting with the ancient period of the pre-historic animals and tectonic changes to the area, all the way to the arrival of the Greeks and other colonial powers.

Tectonic plates of Italy – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

Pygmied elephant and hippopotamus – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

Fossils – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

Fossil section – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

Prehistoric inhabitants jars – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

Old vases – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

Dipping bowls – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

Dipping bowls with stemmed handles – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

Intricate vases and vessels – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

Urns and other vessels – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

Thapsos collection – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

Bronze dagger – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

The burial sites of Pantalica – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

Exhibit of a typical burial – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

Monte Finocchio – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

Centuripe exhibit – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

Bronze spear points, buttons and other artifacts – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

The Gorgone – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

A Greek Kouros – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

Megara Hyblaea exhibit – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

Dioramas of Greek architecture found throughout Sicily – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

Exhibit of unusual antiquated gutter system – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

Dioramas of ancient Greek Structures on Sicily – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily

More than one area within the south-eastern coast of Sicily is addressed, as well as other major areas to the north and in the center. In all, the museum provides an excellent historical picture of the island of Sicily.

Archaeological Park

The Archaeological Park, also known as the Neapolis Archaelogical Park of Syracuse, is situated about two and a half kilometers from the island of Ortigia. However, a brisk walk can get you there in about twenty or so minutes.

The Grotto caverns – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily

Tickets may be purchased at the gate, now across the newly blue painted intersection.

The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily

If you follow the signs, like we did, you will be taken to group ticket sales, which will still sell you tickets, but its out of the way and you will have to walk through a path of vendors before actually finding the ticket booth.

Latomia or Grottos

When you enter the Neapolis the first thing to visit is the Grotto, or the large quarry where they used to mine stone for building. This is a huge cutout in the surrounding rock face which is about fifty or so meters in height.

A walk to the Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily

Small park area – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily

Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily

It appears to have had several cave-ins in the past, which probably occurred as they were mining the stone. There is evidence of the former inhabitants leaving large columns behind in an attempt to prevent additional cave-ins from occurring. Whether they were successful or not, it is not known, there are no information signs or other historical information provided at the site.

Another section of the Grotto – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily

The Grotto entrance – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily

The Ear of Dionysus Grotto – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily

The Greek Theater

Built into the side of the hill, the Greek Theater was originally constructed in the fifth century BCE and later re-constructed several times, including by the Romans. Currently it has been further modified by the contemporary Syracusians for use as a theater again, building a scaffold like theater on top of the pre-existing Greek Theater, in order to have out-door performances and other events.

The necropolis near the Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily

Ancient stone stairway of the Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily

The Necropolis – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily

Area around the Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily

The renovated Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily

Behind the theater is a necropolis and grotto, both of which may be visited while visiting the structure.

SyracuseSicily_57_NeapolisArchaeologicalPark_42

The Roman Theater

The Roman Theater is found on the way out of the park complex and extends to the exit for some way.

The Roman Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily

Entryway to the Roman Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily

Island Of Ortigia

Ortigia, also known as Ortygia or Citta Vecchia (old city), is an island within the city of Syracuse. It is connected to the mainland and the rest of Syracuse by two bridges, the Umbertino Bridge and the Bridge of Santa Lucia.

Ortea Palace Hotel at night – Siracusa, Sicily

The old market place – Via Emmanuele de Benedictus – Siracusa, Sicily

At the entrance of the ancient city is the Temple of Apollo. This is the first site anyone will see upon entering the city. Continuing around the temple visitors will automatically ascend the Corso Giacomo Matteotti, or the main street. This is the main shopping street, containing all contemporary brands and shops and will lead one to the Fountain of Diana.

Syracusae boardwalk – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily

Statue of Archimedes – Umbertino Bridge – Siracuse, Sicily

Temple of Apollo – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily

From this traffic-circle; going to the left will take one to the Puppet museum and theater, and the eastern part of the island; going right will take one to the Piazza Duomo and the tourist shopping street, which will also take you to the Syracuse Cathedral.

Santa Lucia Church – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily

Papyrus Grotto – Arethuse Spring – Siracusa, Sicily

Puppet Museum

This is an interesting little museum covering the history of a specific heritage of puppet making on the island of Ortigia. Therefore, the puppets are specifically built around tales and folklore of the people of Sicily.

The puppets range in size from small (approx. 20cm in height), all the way to life size. There are many examples of finished products and some of contemporary origin. One display also shows the progression of making a puppet, from the carving stage through final assembly. All very instructive.

Assortment of small puppets – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily

Assortment of knight puppets – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily

Small store front to scale – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily

Old advertisement sign – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily

A favorite puppet antagonist – The devil – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily

The dwarves, smurfs and others – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily

The six headed beast – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily

Dragons – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily

Horse drawn wagon and driver puppet – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily

Workshop puppets at different stages of finishing – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily

Puppet Theater

I was originally hesitant to go the Puppet Theater. But after attending a show, I am glad I had. Not only does the host explain the tale in great detail in English, before it is performed. But the actually acting and enactment of the tale was so compelling, I was captivated, even though I had no idea what was being said at many points during the performance.

Tickets for Two – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily

The theater space is very personal, with only enough room for about 50-60 people, and they will seat others if needed in the aisle (on the steps). Therefore, if you need to take any medically necessary precautions in cramped quarters, be prepared before you arrive.

The stage in action – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily

An ancient Sicilian tale – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily

A demon is always close by – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily

Maniace Castle

The Maniace Castle sits at the tip of Ortigia and commands an open view of the Ionian Sea. It is a rather simple structure in function and betrays itself to its many uses down through the ages by its many apparent modifications, including the installation of the lighthouse.

Tickets of Two – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily

Entrance – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily

It is however complete with a moat, or in this case, a large drained sunken area where you can wander and only guess what it used to be like back in the day.

Layout – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily

Museum – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily

From a distance – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily

The outside walls – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily

Parapet – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily

Arches repurposed – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily

Interior – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily

Interior arches – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily

Lighthouse – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily

Converging interior walls – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily

Battlement – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily

Gun emplacement – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily

Another lookout – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily

A view of Ortigia – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily

Internal ruins – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily

Bay of Ortigia – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily

Ionian Sea – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily

Cathedral Of Syracuse

In the center of Ortigia sits the Cathedral of Syracuse, a large and fairly simple structure as cathedrals go, having no real apse, but only central and left naves.

Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily

The inside however is impressive and elegant and worth a visit. The outside of the cathedral displays Doric columns of the original Temple of Athena, which stood on this site prior to the building of the edifice.

Our Hotel

Hotel Musciara Resort

For the six nights we stayed in Syracuse, we stayed at the Musciara Resort. This boutique resort is located about a 15 minute walk from Ortigia Island and has its own beach. It is a three-star hotel, but it is expertly appointed and maintained. There are only about a dozen or so rooms, so book early if interested. It is a on the pricey side, so if you are able, use points.

Lobby – Musciara Resort – Siracusa, Sicily

Though we did not use the beach at them, since there was a severe upper level low causing rain for many days, we know a set of two lounge chairs and table will cost 110€/day for those wishing to enjoy the water or work on that tan.

Our Room – Musciara Resort beach – Siracusa, Sicily

Musciara Resort beach – Siracusa, Sicily

Musciara Resort Beach from room – Siracusa, Sicily

Lounge area – Musciara Resort – Siracusa, Sicily

Private Beach – Musciara Resort beach – Siracusa, Sicily

Restaurants

The cuisine of Syracuse is of course based mainly on the sea, so people who love fish will definitely enjoy themselves. There are myriads of fish to choose from, as well as octopus, squid, cuttlefish and assorted shell fish.

Trattoria Archimede

We ate lunch here and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. They have a nice garden where one can enjoy an relaxes lunch away from the hustle and bustle of Piazza Duomo.

The food is typical and simple for Sicilian cuisine. We picked basic items, along with the house wine and had a very nice lunch. The staff were attentive and had a very good grasp of English, so communicating in my broken Italian, although appreciated, was not totally necessary, our waiter spoke and understood Italian, English, French and German.

Garden – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily

Ravioli – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily

Taglierini e Ragu – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily

Ristorante Sicilia In Tavola

A gastronomic pleasure with an unpretentious interior is Ortigia’s In Tavola Ristorante.

Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily

Here, as with many other place, they have home-made pasta and spaghetti. However, we ordered fish, swordfish for me and mackerel for Patti. For dessert we had lemon pie and a cannolo, along with an coffee and an aperitif, the a Sicilian Amaro, for 77€ for two people.

Grilled Swordfish and Componata with roasted potatoes – Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily

Mackerel with potatoes and tomatoes – Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily

Cannolo with pistachio – Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily

Lemon Pie – Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily

Ristorante Cine

Having been eating Italian and SIcilian food for too long, we tried RIstorante Cine and really like it. Though the ingredients are different from what we are used to in Turin and the States (though not unusual), the owner was more than happy to alter any dishes to our tastes. We only ate lunch here and for two, we were able to order an appetizer, primi (vegetable rice) and secondi (chicken or pork or vegetables in white sauce), along with a half carafe of red wine, water, coffee and sambuca for under 30€! It is hard to beat that in a tourist area.

Involtino and Rice Cantonese – Ristorante Cine – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily

Pork and onions in brown sauce, Shrimp and onion in white sauce – Ristorante Cine – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily

La Tavernetta Da Piero Fuori Ortigia

We ate lunch here on Sunday, the 21st of May, 2023, after visiting the Archaeological Park and when unbeknownst to us Mount Etna was erupting.

Tagliatella alla pomodoro, bruschetta – La Tavernetta Da Piero Fuori Ortigia Ristoranta – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily

After we finished and began walking back to the hotel, we noticed dust getting in our eyes. At the time we had no idea why and surmised that the recent bad storm had brought in dust from Africa, which can occasionally happen. When we read the next day that the Catania Airport had closed due to ash if finally dawned on us that it had been the ash from the volcano all those miles away that was the cause.

Gelateria

If you are looking for gelati in Sicily, do not buy the brightly colored ones, usually they are made of inferior ingredients. Instead, look for the Artiginale label. Though you will pay more for a cone of cup of this, it will be far more worth your while in taste later.

Levante Gelateria

Another good Gelateria, providing excellent artisanal gelati. I was particularly fond of their Amerano and Pistachio flavors.

Levante Gelati Artiginale – Pistachio and Amorano – Siracusa, Sicily

Fior Di Latte Gelati

Finding very good gelati anywhere in Italy is not a difficult task, here is no exception. It has great artiginale (artisanal) flavors, I ordered the Ortigia and Note Di Sicilia, and Patti ordered the Note Di Sicilia, Mandarin Orange and Dark Chocolate with a hint of orange.